Early 08 Mac Pro Airport Trouble

Hi all,
I ran into a slow internet problem on my early 08 Mac Pro (x x 2.8 GHz Intel Xeon, 4 GB DDR2).
I've had it hooked up to internet via ethernet cable for about a year now and everything was fine. Last week, I moved the computer to a sunnier room (guest bedroom was too dark, gets kinda depression). Since I didn't have an ethernet cable long enough (and there is no cable outlet), I started using Airport to connect to internet. The Router and Modem are still in my guest bedroom. I immediately noticed that my internet connection has slow to a crawl. At first I thought I was out of range for my router (the rooms are not that far apart, but it was a valid theory). So I tested with my laptop (MBP 15'' early 09), iPad and iPhone sitting on the same desk as my pro (pro is under the desk, of course), all worked fine on the wifi (with my laptop clocked an impressive 13.97 Mbps download and 5.59 Mbps upload according to Speedtest.net).
When I opened network diagnostic window, I noticed the ISP / Internet/ Server lights keep switching from green to red. Has anyone seen this before? Do I have a bad Airport component? Is there a test I can run?
Thanks.
Angela

The changing Wi-FI Icon, showing signal strength of one to five bars does not always tell the whole story.
One problem with these things in cities is interference from neighbors' networks on the same channel, or "Network Hopping" if you have not told your Mac explicitly to use only your Network.
In 10.7, there is a tool to show detailed signal strength information:
http://subrosasoft.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/hidden-wi-fi-diagnostics-tool-in-mac -os-x-10-7-lion
You can also use the free utility istumbler:
http://www.istumbler.com/
It is not an accident that almost every troubleshooting guide suggests you power cycle your Router as an early step. This will tend to force your Router to find the least-busy channel and use it.

Similar Messages

What upgrade graphic card do i need for a early 2008 mac pro

I have a early 2008 Mac Pro. ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 256 MB is what i have now. What is a good upgrade graphic card to get.

The GTX 780 6GB runs fine on the dual PCIe internal power cables -- as does the GTX 680 and Radeon HD 7950. The same can't be said of the GTX TITAN or GTX 780 Ti or Radeon R9 280X -- all of which require an auxiliary power feed to avoid a nasty power down of your tower at the worst moment when too much wattage is demanded of the Mac Pro's factory power supply.
Did I mention that the GTX 780 with 6GB of GDDR5 matches the 6GB of GDDR5 in the TITAN?
The one fallacy to my 'sweet spot' award has to do with OpenCL. In case you hadn't noticed, the AMD Radeon GPUs smoked the NVIDIA GeForce GPUs running Photoshop's OpenCL accelerated Iris Blur filter and rendering LuxMark's OpenCL accelerated Room scene.
- http://www.barefeats.com
So depends on budget, whether you want a PC card for less but no "early EFI boot screen" prior to drivers loading, and what apps and needs you have.
The one thing for sure is that 2600XT should have been retired ages ago and even more so with 10.8.3 and above, it could be trouble or just... PITA/POS.

2nd Optical-Drive for Early 2008 Mac Pro: Suggestions Required

I am hoping to add a second optical-drive to my Early 2008 Mac Pro. I notice that there are various SATA ones available for Early 2009 Mac Pro's onwards (e.g. the LG GH24NS90) but according to OWC (Other World Computing) these ones are apparently unsuitable for earlier Mac Pro's.
The current optical-drive in my Mac Pro is a Sony AD-7170A.
Can anyone suggest a suitable optical-drive that is still available as new (preferably available in the UK).
Thanks,
Yan Lee

The SATA optical drives will work fine in a 2008 Mac Pro. I just installed this model:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136259
I already have a Blu-Ray SATA drive in my other tray, so I've done this a couple of times now.
You have to run a SATA data cable through to one of the two ports on the motherboard - it involves removing the first two drive trays and the front fan. The cable goes up behind the top left corner of the compartment, together with the black cables feeding the optical ATA connectors. You CAN use an L-shaped (90 or 270 degree) SATA cable, but I've found that a regular straight cable works OK too - it is a tight fit behind the fan, but it should fit. The trouble with the L-shape is that it blocks the other SATA port. You can also look for low-profile SATA cables, which have slightly smaller heads.
You'll also need a molex-to-SATA power adaptor. Don't forget to remove the front bezel from the drive - I do this by attaching everything to power, don't slide the optical enclosure back into the space yet, power up the computer, eject the drive using its eject button, and then slide the bezel up and off. You can then slide the enclosure into the space. Turn the computer off to put the fan and drives back in.
Matt

Poor performance with Yosemite and early 2009 Mac Pro

I have an early 2009 Mac Pro with the following specs:
- 2.66 GHz Quad Core Intel Xeon
- 10 GB of 1066 MHz RAM
- NVidia GeForce GT 120 512 MB
- 256 MB solid state drive for my system partition
- Two monitors connected, each at 1680x1050 resolution
Back when I was running OS X 10.7 or 10.8 I found that for every day tasks the performance using my computer was adequate. However, starting around 10.9, and even worse since upgrading to 10.10, thinks have gotten painfully slow. To give an example, activating Mission Control can take upwards of four seconds, with the animation being very choppy. Changing tabs on a Finder window can take two seconds for the switch to happen. Just switching between different windows, it can take several seconds for a window to activate. It's gotten to the point where I'm having difficulty working. So I'm thinking of upgrading some of my hardware.
Given my specs the weakest link seems to be my graphics card, and all of these issues do seem to be related to graphics. So my questions are:
- Do you think upgrading my graphics card will substantially improve things, and is there anything else I should upgrade?
- Is this slowness just the result of the computer being nearly six years old, and no upgrades will really improve things that much?
Thanks in advance!

Between Setup Assistant, and your existing system "untouched" (or use CCC if say you want to use an existing SSD for the system) there is no reason it should be a lot of work setting up. Have you ever used Migration or Setup? it has also gotten better.
Also, having 10.9.5 on another drive and running DU - and TRIM _now_ would be helpful.
Looking at just what gremlins you have running around inside your current system is not bad but.... sometimes the "long road" turns a shortcut into a dead end, and avoiding doing what seems the long road and hardest gets you where you want to go: a solid stable system.
Less is more. Most systems have more than needed and they get in the way and can cause trouble. Even handy "widgets" and those things that monitor system functions, even disk status. Which is why I like seeing a separate small system maintenance volume just for the weekly checkup. 30GB is more than enough so just slice out a partition somewhere - on another drive/device.
Those things, more so than and a lot cheaper than a new GPU. If your SSD is two years old, the 840 EVO from Samsung is down under $120 for 250GB, or use one for Lightroom / Aperture / iPhoto or scratch.
One person was complaining about sluggish window issue and thought it was the driver. Turned out It happened in ONE APP, not everywhere - very telling - and the app in question needs update. Adobe updated CC (for Windows) last month to finally support dual Dxx and some of the newer AMD GPUs - can the mac be far behind?
10GB RAM? that would not be 3 x 4GB or any combination using triple channel memory.

Early 2009 Mac Pro, Mavericks, and Airplay

Yes, I'm sure this question has been asked and answered a thousands times, but I have been looking in vain for an answer that helps me.
I have an early 2009 Mac Pro, running Mavericks. I have a Denon AVR-1912 Receiver, which my iPhone and iPad see and can play through with no trouble. So can my MacBook Pro. I also have Apple TV, but I don't use it for streaming music because the Denon works well.
What I want to do is sit at my Mac Pro desktop and play songs through iTunes that play not only through my desktop system but through my home theater system (the Denon Receiver). I'm used to clicking on the little Airplay icon and getting to choose Single or Multiple speakers. When I go to System Prefs/Sound, I see my sound card (Presonus Firestudio) AND I see Apple TV and my Denon. So my computer is seeing them both.
Here's what happens. If I choose the Firestudio in System Prefs, it plays as always through my desktop system, but there is no Airplay icon in iTunes. If I choose Denon in System Prefs, iTunes plays music through the Denon AND I get the Airplay icon in iTunes. If i click on the icon and I choose Multiple, I can choose Airplay Device, which is already checked, and Computer. If I click on Computer, the Airplay icon disappears in iTunes, and the music starts playing through my computer's internal speakers, not through my Firestudio sound card, and it stops playing through the Denon.
Why does the Airplay icon not give me an option to play through my sound card and the Denon? Why, in other words, can't I do what I said I wanted to do in the third paragraph, above? Is it possible or is my Mac Pro too old?
Many thanks,
Paul

I found out that the built in firewall interferes with AirPlay (which I know is weird).
Try turning the OS X firewall off using System Settings -> Security. If AirPlay now works, turn on the firewall and add "coreaudio" to the list of exceptions. This worked for me.
Coreaudio is the system driver for audio, by the way.

Mac Pro airport card boot issues

I've taken an old airport card from a Mac Mini, and installed it in an Early 2009 Mac Pro.
The unit should be fully compatible, but when I boot, it just hangs at the 50% mark on the startup screen.
If I remove the card, the machine boots just fine.
Is there a firmware update I need to make to the system, to tell it about the new wireless card?

What makes yo think it is compatible? It seems not to be.
Also these do not list a Mini card being compatible with a Mac Pro desktop card
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/AR5BXB112/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/6615048K/

Early 2008 Mac Pro frequently shut downs during start up, Help!

Hello all,
My early 2008 Mac Pro has gradually started having the following problems:
It will often shut down when it goes to sleep.
It has shut down randomly a few times.
And just today it shut down about 5-10 seconds after being turned on. It took about 6 tries before I could get it to turn on.
I have tried all of theusual software remedies (disk utility, different startup drives, resetting the SMC, PRAM, etc.)
I have run apple hardware test on loop for several hours with no errors appearing...
The computer also often loads up to a circle with with a slash through the middle sign, though I am not sure if this is related (it started happening when it switched my system over to a SSD).
I am wondering if this is simply a slowly sying PSU and if replacing it might help? If there any way of monitoring this perhaps? I somehow thought that if it was the PSU then it would simply die completely rather than fade like this...
Any ideas much appreciated!

There are multiple threads and reports of issues with Icy Dock - there is one on Amazon that lines up properly.
The drive sled length of 2009-2012 Mac Pro are longer. Maybe OWC needs to be clearer.
You'e right half-way and maybe some corrupt plist or interferring process you have, or even another hardware item or cable - external - even printer drivers or something that refuses or does not like sleep. Controller card?
All around I'd have to vote for Samsung 830 model. Then Intel 520. Crucial is out with x4 now (Or is it "V"?)
SSD firmware continues to be trouble. Even May-June the SandForce firmware had major issue and reason to hold off any using theirs. Reason to see if yours needed to be updated. Someone last week with m4 found they had old firmware and needed to update it.

Early 2008 Mac Pro-What type of HD? Smart failing?

I have an early 2008 Mac Pro and have two hard drives in it. The main system drive is a 2TB Western Digital drive I installed about a year ago. The 2nd drive is a 1TB Seagate drive which is the original drive that came with the Mac Pro.
When looking at Disk Utility a few days ago I realized the drive is showing up in Red and it's saying that SMART is failing. I've never had this happen before and like having a warning.
First Question:
When SMART shows up as failing can it be a false alarm or is it likely a definite sign of impending hard drive failure? When this happens, does the drive frequently fail quickly or does it take awhile? The fortunate thing is I back this drive up frequently to Time Machine.
Second Question:
What SATA speed does the Mac Pro handle? I see many hard drives that are 3.0GB/s and some that are 6.0GB/s. Does the Mac Pro handle the faster 6.0GB/s? If not, would they still work but just not at the additional speed?
I may consider upgrading to a 1.5TB or 2TB but figured I'll go with a Western Digital or Seagate drive. I see cache ranging from 16MB to 64MB and speeds at 5400RPM and 7200RPM. Between these two which is more important, large cache size or RPM's?
Thank you for your help.

Run WD Lifeguard (*Windows program or their ISO you burn to CD) is best and almost only reliable way.
If a drive has started to use spare blocks it is gone.
IT DOES NOT MATTER. Any 3.5" SATA drive is a drive is all SATA and mostly about features and specs. So just buy the newest size you need. 64MB cache and 7.2K (Green can have trouble on Macs and are more for backup and storing movies etc).
I recommend WD 10K VR newest 250GB 200MB/sec for system $152, and WD Black or Hitachi.
http://www.macperformanceguide.com likes 2-3-4TB.
Questions like this get asked unfortunately.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3908030?tstart=0
For every drive, you want to have multiple backup sets (clone and Tm) because drives and backups do fail and you want an alternate boot drive and to restore when needed.

Early 2008 Mac Pro Raid + Radeon 4870

So far this has been a very disappointing experience in upgrading to SL!
I have an early 2008 Mac Pro with Apple software RAID as my boot drive, SL of course is not seeing this as a possible install drive as others have experienced. I have tried to boot directly off of two different SL retail upgrade disks but the installer crashes every time (I've verified that the drive boots off of other disks). I'm starting to suspect that it may be an issue with the Radeon 4870, has anyone else with a similar setup had any success in upgrading to SL? I'm going to try installing the original video card to see if that helps, otherwise it looks like I will be doing an install to a new hard drive from within Leopard.

I've got a 2006 Mac Pro, the first gen one. I've got a flashed PC 4870 and a three disk software raid of 640GB Western Digital HD's, Model: WDC WD6400AAKS-00A7B0. When I ran the install disk from Mac OS, I couldn't install to the raid, it didn't show up as a volume that could be installed to. However when I restarted from the DVD I had no trouble installing onto the raid at all. The install finished without a hitch. I also ran an install to my Intel X25-E and didn't have any trouble there either. So I know it is possible to get the install to work with a raid and a 4870.
Obviously my setup isn't exactly like yours though. But that's the best I can do.

Purchased a early 2008 Mac Pro in 2010. Yesterday I updated my mac to System 10.9 and now I have a dialogue box in system preferences saying I need to update the NVIDIA CUDA drivers but the servers are unavailable. I download a driver from the site but th

Purchased a early 2008 Mac Pro in 2010. Yesterday I updated my mac to System 10.9 and now I have a dialogue box in system preferences saying I need to update the NVIDIA CUDA drivers but the servers are unavailable. I download a driver from the site but the Mac would not open it. This system has an ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 256 MB graphics card. What do I need to do. Do I need a new Card?
David Rosenblatt
<Email Edited By Host>

Vista Ultimate 64-bit recognizes 8 cores. 32-bit recognizes one physical cpu.
I've had very little trouble in two years. And now I do like Windows 7 but also eager for the RC.
I've been using the latest Nvidia. There is a method to the madness of how to uninstall/delete and install graphics drivers, or madness in the method. The W7 drivers are easier.
Nope. Something else. More sensitive to disk errors. You aren't running a program to boost fans. Something.
And some AV software is more prone to causing trouble. But all you need is a good AV/malware program, and even Norton AV 2009 is acceptable, or Avast or one of the others.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1866970&tstart=0

TS3048 My early 2009 Mac Pro does not connect via bluetooth to my sound bar or bluetooth mini speakers. Both my wireless keyboard and mouse have no problems connecting. What do I need to do to connect to external bluetooth devices?

My early 2009 Mac Pro does not connect via bluetooth to my sound bar or bluetooth mini speakers. Both my wireless keyboard and mouse have no problems connecting. What do I need to do to connect to external bluetooth devices?

I would always have a wired keyboard and mouse on hand (need not be expensive ... any cheap wired devices will work). "Emergency recovery" procedures can activate features in random order, so the opportunity to select a recovery partition may pass before the wireless devices are recognized.
That will let you select the "turn on Bluetooth" icon.

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?
I assume there are already instructions on Apple.com someplace but haven't seen them yet… I have to one terabyte drives one the operating system the other is blank I want to start fresh I want to zero out both drives but I didn't want to make any mistakes
I know I can use disk utility to 0 Out Dr., #2 that means I will have to take out the operating system hard drive out of my 2008 Mac Pro and put it into my 2009 Mac Pro to use the disk utility to zero out drive one the OS drive in my 2009 Mac Pro am my correct
I just need a little bit a help I want to go slow so I don't make any mistakes with the sleds or with the erasing process which journaled to choose encrypted or not etc. etc.
Furthermore is there instructions on the site on how to change the hard drive into a different sled because the sleds and my 2009 are different than my 2008 any advice
Thank you

I'm doing this because my friend told me that zeroing out the drive can nap bad sectors and also later for some kind of diagnostics usage of the drive or something like that he wasn't really clear
My friend was really specific he said choose the option that writes zero's once over the drive that is plenty good enough I was inclined to use the maximum seven write ...I just want to make sure the drive has no bad sectors and that's it's it's zeroed out for possible future diagnostics usage or something that he said was usable later
he also advised me to run a test on it but I don't have the software you mentioned or the software that he has… So I may have to take the drives over to his house unless you have some kind of free software that's easy to use that you could suggest that will not only zero out the drive but test the drive completely
I am completely new to Mac I'm no dummy but at the same time I'm not super technically capable I mean I can surprise myself I'm pretty good but I need a good teacher… How expensive is this lifeguard software?
Thank you

Why are there so many problems with the early 2008 Mac Pro ???

Hi everybody out there using Mac Pro's early 2008,
I found out there is a lot of problems with the early 2008 Mac Pro.
My early 2008 Mac Pro has been repaired ones under warranty and now it stopped working again ! Also see under: Mac Pro early 2008 no chime and does not start up. Why is this ????
It worked well for about 2 years and then it just fails and i had this failing issue twice already !!! Is this just a BAD Apple product or how do you think I need to approach this. Let’s face it, these machine don’t come cheap and you at least expect them to work without problems for 4-5 years. What is happening here ???
Cheers, Kavango

go to a black screen after 15 minutes or a couple hours
That is probably an indication that you need to find a new graphics card.
RE: Mac Pro Replacement Graphics cards
1) Apple brand cards,
2) "sold in the Apple store" cards, and
3) "Mac Edition" cards ...
... show all the screens, including Boot up screens, Safe Mode, Installer, Recovery, debug screens, and Alt/Option boot screens. At this writing, these choices include:
1) Apple brand cards:
• Apple-firmware 5770, about US$250** works near full speed in every model Mac Pro, Drivers in 10.6.5
• Apple-firmware 5870, about US$450
2) "sold in the Apple store" cards
• NVIDIA Quadro 4000, about US$1200
• NVIDIA Quadro 5000, about US$2500
3) "Mac Edition" cards -- REQUIRE 10.8.3 or later:
• SAPPHIRE HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 MAC Edition, about US$480** Vendor recommends Mac Pro 4,1
• EVGA GTX 680 Mac Edition, about US$600
The cards above require no more than the provided two 6-pin aux power connectors provided in the Mac Pro through 2012 model. Aux cables may not be provided for third-party cards, but are readily available.
If you are Meet ALL of these:
• running 10.8.3 or later AND
• don't care about "no boot screens" etc AND
• can re-wire or otherwise "work out" the power cabling, THEN:
You can use many more cards, even most "PC-only cards"

My Early 2009 Mac Pro won't restart after installing Mavericks

I have installed Mavericks on my Early 2009 Mac Pro and all seemed to install just fine but when I restart the Mac then it won't get past a grey screen with Apple logo. It seems that it does get reasonabley far into the startup, it gets passed the grey screen with cricling progress thingmy under the Apple logo, then it flashes very quickly and after that it is a grey screen with the Apple logo and no further.
I did try installing Mavericks when it first came out and I had this problem so I just abandoned and reinstalled Mountain Lion from my Time Machine backup. However I thought that with Mavericks now at 9.1, maybe it would work okay this time but no change. However this time I do want to get it working because the lastest Final Cut Pro X requires Mavericks and I do a lot of video editing.
Here are the things I've tried which have made no difference:
Removed all peripherals, so that now nothing is plugged in except the original Apple Keyboard, my Apple trackpad and my Eizo monitor.
I tried starting it in Safe Boot mode but this made no difference.
I started it up in Recovery mode and it will start in Recovery mode. While in Recovery mode I checked the startup hard drive with Disk Utility, the drive is fine, as and I repaired disk permisions which made no difference.
I zapped the PRAM.
I connected it to my MacBook Pro in Target Disk mode and used ProSoft's Drive Genius 3 to check over the startup hard drive again and check disk permissions and all is well.
It still will not startup
I would be most grateful if someone could assist.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 3
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 4
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 5
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 6
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 7
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 8
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 9
Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 10
This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 11
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

I have an early 2008 Mac Pro, which has re-booting problems. Also what does the spinning beach-ball indicate?

Hi, I have an early 2008 Mac Pro which has re-booting problems.
Processor speed is: 2.8
Memory: 2GB 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
2 x 28GHz Quad Core Intel Xeon
I am running OSX Yosemite Version 10.10
My Mac Pro keeps re-booting. Last year I had to replace my graphics card. My original card was the ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 255MB, and that is what I have now. At this precise moment my Mac Pro is running perfectly, except that it is slow and the spinning beach-ball keeps appearing. I have managed to do some work with the disk utilities, verifying, cleaning and partitioning. Some errors were found and when it was cleaned this seemed to help my Mac Pro to function properly. Although I am able to use my Mac Pro now, from day to day I still experience re-boot problems. Also quite unexpectedly my mac dictionary has an error, it closed itself down and will not open at all, I had the message to say that a report will be sent to Apple.
I have tried starting my computer with an external hard drive fitted via a USB cable, I use for back-ups. This worked and I was able to wipe my hard drive clear and replace all info from the back up I had done only a few days ago.
This worked for a few days and then the same problem started again.
I am beginning to wonder if I need to buy a new hard drive.
If there is anyone who has some answers to help me solve my problem, I would be most grateful.
Robert

When you have the beachball activity, note the exact time: hour, minute, second.
These instructions must be carried out as an administrator. If you have only one user account, you are the administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad and start typing the name.
The title of the Console window should be All Messages. If it isn't, select
          SYSTEM LOG QUERIES ▹ All Messages
from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
          View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar at the top of the screen.
Each message in the log begins with the date and time when it was entered. Scroll back to the time you noted above.
Select the messages entered from then until the end of the episode, or until they start to repeat, whichever comes first.
Copy the messages to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of it useless for solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

Early 08 Mac Pro Airport Trouble

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