Export & reimport to delete original - Current setting quality?

Hi,
I have cropped a lot of old photos in iphoto - not creatively - they were scanned with edges. I would like to get rid of the originals as the library is over 40GB and a lot of it is a waste. The library is stored on a laptop, so space and performance is important. I understand that iphoto and aperture don't let you just delete the original photos.
So if i export using the current setting when exporting, will that give the same quality if i just reimport that? The annoying thing then is that i lose the location info. Anyway, it's better to do this now before i add other info to the photos. Exporting as a jpeg is difficult as the quality of so many different photos is variable & the size can blow out - i wish they had a same quality option that attached all the info.
system - iphoto 9.1.3, snow leopard 10.6.8 on mbp.
Thanks.

No.
If you're working with jpegs then there is generational loss when you edit. So the Current output is down one generation. So is exporting at Jpeg, but you can now a:keep the location and other metadata and b: set the amount of compression on the jpeg and so mitigate the effects of the generational loss.
A much simpler solution? If space is an issue put the Library on an external disk.
Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
3. Hold down the option (or alt) key while launching iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library' and navigate to the new location. From that point on this will be the default location of your library.
4. Test the library and when you're sure all is well, trash the one on your internal HD to free up space.
Regards
TD

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Exporting movies in iPhoto using 'Current' Setting, exports the first frame only

Hi,
When I export my iPhoto library into separate events using the 'Current' Setting, it exports all video / movie files as the original file type with a single frame in it.
I don't want to go through each event and drag and drop each video to the exported folder as that would be an enormous pain. Does anyone have ideas to fix this? I have edited some photos, so I don't want to export as 'original' if possible
Thanks!
iPhoto has the latest updates installed and the original videos play perfectly in iPhoto.

Yeah, I have upgraded from previous iPhoto versions, some videos are a few years old (.MOV iPhone format) and some are only a few months old (Canon EOS .MOV format), both export only first frame. I might have to recreate my iPhoto library and start fresh! Currently I am exporting as 'Original' and 'Current' to two different folders, and just grabbing the videos from the original and replacing the videos in the 'Current' folder.
LarryHN's solution works well, but when I add a second condition to select a specific event, I can't choose from a list of specific events (unlike albums). Entering in the event title (in the Event condition) sometimes adds videos from silmilar titled events.

How do I delete a current icloud account so I can try again to set one up using my original apple id?

when I first downloaded the os icloud would not allow me to use my existing apple id to create an account. this even though the id is an email account. so I went ahead and established a new one. now I realize that was a poor choice. shoud I just delete the new iCloud account and try again to use my existing apple id?
will deleting the current iCloud account cause any issues with my iPad apps?
Thanks

OK found the answer in anothe discussion thread. On iPad, delete existing account by going to settings-iCloud-and tap red delete account bar. Sign in with the Apple id you want to use. This worked for me this time. Even though when I first tried to set up the iCloud account, I got error messages and thus was forced into creating the new id.
Anyhow, success.

Export a clip in exactly the same quality as the original

I have just tried importing a DSLR H264 file in premiere and export it back
1. At the question if i would like to create the new sequence i choose using the clip's settings
This generated a correct sequence (regarding the frame size the pixel aspect ratio and the field order) but it set the preview settings in i mpeg / 50% quality, while the clip uses the quicktime H264 codec (let us say that this will be used in the editing procedure and can be altered at the export)
2. I immediately exported the clip from the sequence using the match sequence setting option (which uses the I mpeg codec)
3. I Linked then to AMA in the Avid facility we have, (both the original and the -so called same as sequence = same as clip export - (I used link to AMA so that i could prevent Avid from trnascoding any of the clips.
4. the results (using Avid's Color Scopes) are that there is a colour shift to the exported video from Premiere vs the original.
5. I retried using H264 as the export codec and disabling the Limit data rate and enabling any time cost setting
6. I tried many other possible solutions regarding the export codecs or the sequence settings and still having a different kind of shifting all the time
What is the official Adobe solution to import and export in a lossless way any material, or importing something in Premiere means you start shifting from original?

First of all thanks for the reply. Both codecs you mention are pc only codecs and i am working on a mac
I am working on an avid environment, having proposed the install of 3 premiere suites
My point is that i want to edit no matter the codec (impeg or whatever) but be able to export the edit using the native video codec and at the native quality like avid's AMA link way
So when i use H264 i want to export H264
Nevertheless i have done some experiments here and came at the following conclusions
1) exporting using animation codec gives back 100% quality in the best speed
while this is back imported to Premiere and matched down with the original using Premiere scopes and the sequence's preview files being set to H264 gives back 100% the original, when i match it on avid (1 track the original AMA linked 2nd track the exported from Premiere (also AMA linked) ) the Avid's scopes are showing a minor shift in chroma and luma (which visually is non identified)
My question though is more generic and has to do with the whole philosophy of Premiere's materials handling.
I import a video - it is by default using the 50% quality impel in order to edit quickly and when it comes to export what do i do?
I use a different export codec than the one i used to edit?
What about the effects rendered on the timeline (having used the imeg codec)?
I try to switch the sequence's settings to a quicktime animation codec when i finish an edit (it losses the preview files generated by the impel codec) and then export using again the animation codec, but that;s me
I try to find if there is an official Adobe Lossless method of doing this...

Export Current Setting Problem

We currently use DVCProHD footage/timeline, etc. 1280x1080 DVCPro Pixel aspect... all that.
We export to quicktime using Current Settings so we can use it on different editors with no additional rendering needed. Here's the problem: The export changes the pixel aspect ratio from DVCPro HD to square. If we take a small chunk of the 20 or so minute sequence, it'll export just fine and keep the DVCProHD aspect. But, without changing any setting from timeline to export, other than moving our ins and outs to include the whole sequence, the final movie export settings change. Why can I export 1 minute of it and it does it right, but exporting the whole thing changes settings!
Frustrated.
Yes, the sequence may have some different video on it... DV, HDV, jpegs, but it's all rendered out using the DVCPro setting, etc.

The output looks just fine, and I agree it should keep the correct aspect... which is the strange thing, why can I export a small part (as a test) and it's correct to the settings it was made from using Export>Quicktime Movie and use current settings, self contained, etc., but when I export 20+ minutes or so from the same sequence the aspect changes. This wouldn't be a big deal if it wasn't a render nightmare to conform it to the same sequence settings it just came from!
BTW - FCP 6.0.2, G5 2ghzDP 4g ram 2x 1tb G-Raid, Aja IOHD

I have a facebook account set up to iphoto so it automatically opens that facebook when i want to upload pics. but i want to delete the current account and set it up with a new one. how do i do it? help!!!

i have a facebook account set up to iphoto so it automatically opens when i go to share photos via facebook, but i want to delete the current one and set it up to a different account, how do i do it? helpp!!!!

iPhoto > Preferences > Accounts

Reducing library size by deleting original photos

To save hard drive space, I have used the following method to get rid of unwanted originals:
1. crop a photo
2. export it
3. delete the original (command/delete)
4. import the cropped photo
5. delete trash
I've discovered that the cropped photo is often significantly smaller than the original (a 3mb file might be reduced to 300kb for instance, depending on the chosen quality).
Two questions:
1. Anyone know a better or easier way to do this?
2. How come I discover that some of the deleted originals are still in the library? (They do not appear in iPhoto but when I view the package contents, I see that many are still there thus defeating the whole purpose of doing this!)

For feature Requests:
IPhoto menu -> Provide iPhoto Feedback
But it's worth noting that Apple have had 7 iterations of iPhoto and never changed this way of working. Might make you think.
First off -
I disagree with some people here that being forced to save such "originals" is such a necessary blessing forever and for all users.
You are not being ”forced“ to do anything. You have multiple choices all over the place. The most basic is that you can always use another application that works the way you want it to. Claiming that iPhoto ”forces“ you to protect the original is like complaining that Excel ”forces“ you to work in Spreadsheet Cells.
IPhoto is a Digital Asset Manager. It is designed to work on the best principles of DAM and always treats the original file as a film photographer treats the negative. If you do not want this feature, why on earth are you using a DAM?
Next off: Learn how to use iPhoto:
For those who prefer editing in Photoshop but the photo library management in iPhoto, I did notice that when you drag an iPhoto picture to the Photoshop icon, edit and save it, iPhoto does not realize that the image is modified and that prevents the duplicated data. Note, however, that this also means iPhoto's previews in smaller sizes show the original image (e.g. dull sky that you may have brightened in Photoshop) and the item info attributes, including size, dimensions, etc. are also as embedded in the iPhoto library when the photo was first imported.
That is not how you use iPhoto and Photoshop together.
You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.
Apple giving us the ability "Revert to Original" is a great tool - especially so newbies do not to damage or destroy precious photos. But, Apple should consider that over time people become power users and should be treated as adults who should have the facility to delete such wasted, unneeded originals which will never be seen again.
Love the disparaging reference to ”newbies“. Every professional I know always keeps the original file. Every single one.
The first thing an Adult might do is consider that a Spanner is not an appropriate tool for putting in a screw and go and get a screw driver. How ”adult“ would it be to persist in trying to insert the screw with the spanner and complain about it?
I'm not sure just what a ”power user“ is, but it wouldn't the definition include being able to distinguish between a Digital Asset Manager and a Photo Viewer? Or knowing how to use the app with an external editor? It's worth noting that all the professIonal apps - Lightroom, Aperture etc. - are DAM apps too. They all work to preserve your original. Must be something that ”power users“ want a lot.
So, I too use the method you use. Edit, export, reimport (if I am not in the mood to do Photoshop editing). Kind of silly to have to do these extra steps to get rid of useless files when on an OS that is all about convenience and user friendliness.
Kind of silly to be disabling one of the apps key features - non destructive editing - and making a whole lot of work for yourself when you could do what an adult ”power user“ would do: find an app that works the way you want.
IPhoto Diet trashed a whole lot of Libraries. Go back a few years and search the v5 and v6 forums.
Finally, if you are worried about disk space then simply run the Library from an external drive - and Apple don;t make those.
Regards
TD

Export from QT Pro as AVI reduces quality of video drastically

I need AVI for poor PC users in family.
Original video is AVI from a Samsung digital still camera, saved and edited in QTPro 7.2 on iMac.
Export as AVI using Default or Highest Quality Settings, results in a severe degradation of colour tonal gradation - which was OK in the original AVis (viewable in Quicktime), and in QT.
It looks like the number of colours has been reduced from thousands to hundreds ( ? 256)
Filesize is similar- MOV 41.6 MB, AVI 39.5 MB.

The only detail given in the Samsung Pro 815 manual is "file type .avi (MJPEG)". I used default Cinepak compression to export as .avi
Now we're getting somewhere. Motion JPEG is a common video codec used by certain digital camera manufacturers in the AVI container. It is a moderate compression/higher quality codec. Cinepak is an older, high efficiency video codec probably better suited to smaller resolution use. Comparing CinePak to MJPEG would, in some ways, be like comparing MPEG-4 to H.264. In both cases the video data rate of your final "Cinepak" AVI needs to be on the order of 2.0-2.5 times the data rate of your original "MJPEG" AVI file for equivalent quality. While I do not normally deal with such files, a previous poster ask for help in converting his Casio (MJPEG/DVI ADPCM) files for use in iMovi '08. Wile the original file is not of the highest quality, I prepared a clip to compare the original "MJPEG" AVI video track with the final "Cinepak" AVI track. (For comparison purposes, these two tracks were stored in an MOV file container so they could be compared on a "frame-to-frame" basis.) If interested, here is the URL for this comparison.
http://homepage.mac.com/jrwalker4/.Public/CIMG8145Comp.mov
For QT7 Pro to edit the original .avi clips, they have to be saved as .mov.
Strange. I can convert directly from the "MJPEG" AVI to "Cinepak" AVI file.
This is instantaneous, and causes no quality loss. No file conversion or re/de/compression seems to occur.
Correct.
Exporting Cinepak .avi obviously requires considerable processing, so it seems that the codec used in the Samsung .avi is native to QT
This codec basically sequences a series of still JPEG photos in either the AVI or MOV file container. As such it is compatible with probably any system capable of viewing JPEG photos and opening either file container. This compatibility is probably the reason this codec was selected in the first place by the camera manufacturer.
The issue is clearly that the QT7 >Cinepak .avi export process (?deliberately) degrades video quality, without reducing file size, even though it claims to be using "Best" quality and "millions" of colours.
Each codec has its own characteristics. If a small file is what you want, then reduce the resolution of your movie or accept the reduction in quality at its current resolution. If quality is your main concern, then increase your video data rate so it can store as much of the original quality as it can at the current resolution or simply switch to a more modern codec, Microsoft ended support for the AVI file container a decade ago.
Is there a secret QT setting, or plug-in, which will do the export without loss of quality, to an .avi or other format which bog-standard WMP on XP will play?
As demonstrated in the sample file above, the only setting that needs to be changed is the data rate. As to other possible compression formats, you could use more modern codecs like WMV 9 (Flip4Mac) or DivX 6.

Export in iPhoto offers a "Custom" setting for size. The default is 1000. 1000 what? Pixels, centimeters, MB's?

Export in iPhoto offers a "Custom" setting for size.
1000 is the default, but I don't know what 1000 refers to.
Pixels, centimeters, MB's?
I want to make the photo an 1 inch x 1 inch.
Do I go up or down from the 1000?
Thanks

Pixels.
For a 1" x 1" photo first crop the photo square. Then export with Kind = Current with JPEF Quality = Maximum and Size = Full size.
Then when you go to print the photo select a 1" x 1" print size. This will squeeze all available pixels in each dimension into the 1" dimension giving you the highest DPI resolution available from your image file.
More about DPI can be found here: All About Digital Photos - The Arithmetic of DPI and All About Digital Photos - The Myth of DPI
OT

I have a sequence shot on the 550d/rebel T2i, I converted it to prores 422 and edited in fcp. What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation.

i have a sequence shot on the 550d/rebel T2i, I converted it to prores 422 in MPEG Streamclip and edited in fcp. What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation. Rite now, i have been just clicking on the export to quicktime function, but the quality of the footage is completely reduced and colours look desaturated and there is pixellation compared to the original camera footage. Also is there anyway i can render and export the sequence using the original footage (like an online edit or something). Also is there anyway to upgrade the final quality. I have Compressor, Dvd Studio pro, Motion, Color and Cinema tools, i dnt know if they are of any use to me and have no idea how to use hem or what they are for also.

>What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation
The best way to export is entirely dependent on what you plan to do with the exported video. For example, if you plan to go to DVD, the export process is different than if you plan for web delivery or for iPhone viewing. Compressor has presets for most final delivery formats ... start with those.
>is there anyway i can render and export the sequence using the original footage
Yes. In FCP, go to File-Export->QuickTime Movie. Check the box to make the movie Self-Contained and use Current Settings. Do NOT "Recompress All Frames." The resulting self-contained movie will play on any Mac that has the needed audio and video codecs installed.
>is there anyway to upgrade the final quality
No and maybe. While you technically cannot improve quality over the original, you can possibly 'enhance' the aesthetic quality of the video using various filters in FCP or Color.
-DH

Delete original file (from camera)

Hi all,
I use iPhoto and Photoshop on my Mac for different purposes: iPhoto for family events and travel that I won't be doing much (if any) editing to, and Photoshop (Elements 7) for my hobby photography pictures.
I got on Photoshop this morning to import some recent photos from my camera, hooked things up as always, opened Bridge CS3, and selected File>Get photos from camera.
For some reason, I can't find the Delete Original Files checkbox in the Photo Downloader screen (whereas it shows up here: http://livedocs.adobe.com/en_US/Bridge/2.0/help.html?content=WSEC378273-AF69-4a1e-9CD8-10 8420C556ED.html). I could be totally wrong, but thought I've always done things this way in the past to reduce a lot of tiny-camera-button-clicking through tons of photos.
Did this button disappear with a version update? Do I have some other option set incorrectly to not allow this one to appear? Or has the button never been there, and if not, is there a way to delete photos in mass from my camera?
Thanks for any & all help,
Lori Ann

Lori
What you saw was a screenshot of Bridge CS4, somewhat misleading regarding the URL mention Bridge 2.0 in fact it is Bridge 3.0 that comes with CS4. And for some strange reason they added this option to Photodownloader CS4, IMO that energy could have been used better...
However as per Ramón, using this way is also in my opinion not the best way to work. If you don't want or have a card reader (again, not wise :-) ) then only download image from the camera and after this disconnect the camera and use the camera menu itself to format the CF card and start with a fresh and empty CF card.
BUT, don't do this before you have checked if the files you have copied to the computer are OK to open and again a wise thing would be to first make a back-up (if you study the downloader options a little you will see that this is also an option you can (or in fact should) use.

!! Exporting SWF file in PDF reduces image quality.

Hello,
I have a file with many multi-state picture frames and buttons for them. I export it in pieces in SWF format, then I put the SWF's back in the document as a new layer and export as interactive PDF. Finally everything worked fine, except that PDF opens in a larger then normal zoom and when zooming in on pictures the quality is very poor I am guessing 72ppi at the intended zoom. I check the SWF file and see that its image quality is good when zoomed, so the problem is with the way the PDF has exported the SWF.
notes: I made sure the settings were to export at 300ppi and high image quality. When I take a single multi-state frame with its associated button and export to SWF then PDF the image quality is maintained.... however I have over 150 image frames, so I rather not export them individually. Please, please reply... any suggestions will be gratefully excepted.

edit your image in photoshop and experiment with various settings/size. there's no magic high quality small file size setting.
it's a trade-off. the higher the quality and the greater the image dimensions, the greater the file size. you have to decide where those are acceptable.

Exported iphoto slideshow to itune but playback quality is low

I am using Macbook air Early 2014. OS X 10.10.1
My question is I exported iphoto slideshow to itune but playback quality is low. I used 480P MP4 format. How I can improve this?
Lo

Hello!
My first question is pretty obvious:
- is the quality great when previewing your slideshow in iPhoto?
If so, try the following:
delete the bad slideshow from iTunes
go back to iPhoto and select a better quality export method, like 720p or 1080p
Did that help?

Flash CS5: Stage background changes to white upon export no matter what color I set it to?

Hello,
As the title speaks for itself, I've been running into this problem since yesterday and couldn't figure out what is wrong with flash. Normally, I like to work with black background, so my stage background is always set to black, However, when I exported to view my project, the background changes to white. I've tried to check the preferences, setups and nothing I found suspicious is causing this.
I've tried to create a new AS 3.0 document, and still, it gives me a white background when I export to view regardless if I set the stage background to red or blue.
I've tried restarting my computer, and yet nothing is fixing it.
If anyone can help me figure out this problem, I'll gladly appreciate it! Thanks..

Thanks for the wonderful quick fix simPod_, I've deleted my mm.cfg file, but somehow this isn't permanent. It should do for now except the hassle of deleting the file and restarting flash. If anyone else have a permanent solution to this, I'll gladly appreciate any responses. Thanks!

Export old VHS to DVD. Best Quality?

I am fairly new to FCE4. I copied all my home videos from VHS to my computer via Sony DCR-HC30. They became ".dv" files. Now I am finished editing/fixing the first video and I am ready to export it. All I want to do is to be able to make a dvd out of it and watch it on a hdtv. I know it will be very hard to get the old VHS quality videos to HD, but what would be the best setting under "Export" to get the best quality out of them. I tried to do a HD export watching a youtube video and after I did it it said it would take 11hours, thats way too long for me. Any help would be great.
Also, I have done a few projects on IDVD as far as creating the dvd menu and chapters. Is there a way to do that on FCE or is it better after export to run it through IDVD to get my dvd menus and give it an actual dvd feel when I insert it into a dvd player?

Hi
DVD is limited as standard to SD-video (Standard definition) (old CRT-TV quality).
There are no practical/working HD-DVD versions at all.
Neither iDVD or Roxio Toast™ will help.
DVD-Studio Pro got a HD-DVD function - BUT this only play back on some few Toshiba players.
Only way to get HD - is via Blu-Ray - require Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
and BD-burner + BD-disks - AND BD-Player
I've made a list on this.
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
• Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
*Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
*unclemano wrote*
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
• Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

Export &amp; reimport to delete original - Current setting quality?

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Export & reimport to delete original - Current setting quality?