Extra expenses at invoiving stage

Hi Experts!!
How to charge expense on PO after goods receipt (MIGO). Actually, some expenses are included on provisional basis in PO (purchase order) and for the sake of operations, we have to post goods receipt (MIGO) and later on, at invoicing stage (MIRO) we get actual bills to be paid. My question is, how should i treat extra expenses (i.e. not included in PO previously).
problem is that, if i hit stock for that, then it will update moving average for materials available in stock; which would not be justified, because we have high consumption rate (i.e. only 20% of the purchased material are available at invoicing stage).
Please guide me, what should i do.
Regards

HI,
The additional expenses which are not included during Purchase ORder creation, can be booked in the Invoice Verification
We can include expense line items in the GL Account tab during MIRO.
It would suffice your requirement as I believe.
Work this out and let me know if you need more information.
Regards,
Ramesh.

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Extra expenses (dunning and bank costs ...) on Payments

Hello,
I ask you how to manage the extra expenses (for examples for dunning and banks costs) on incoming payments and outgoing payments.
I tried to increase the amount of payment but it is not possible.
It is possible only to make a manual journal entry before or after the payment but it is not too good.
Thank you

Hi,
Check Note no. : 1286810 regarding the issue mentioned by you.
I have copied the solution part of the Note for your reference which is as follows :
When processing bank transfer payments from customers or suppliers, there is a requirement to record the related bank charge. Is there a way to post this bank charge fee with the Incoming or Outgoing Payment transaction?
Solution
In the 'Payment Means' window of the 'Incoming or Outgoing Payment' function, there is currently no facility to define the bank charge.
In standard Business One application, the bank charge can be posted using the following:
Create a separate Journal Entry.
Create an Adjusting Journal Entry during the process of reconciling bank statements with the Cash Account balance.
To address the requirement, the 'Credit Card' tab of the 'Payment Means' window can be used to hold the Bank Charges. The details of the workaround are shown below:
1. In the 'Credit Card' tab, click on the 'Credit Card Name' field and select 'Define New' to display the 'Credit Cards - Setup' window.
2. Enter a description for the bank charge and the corresponding bank charge account. For example, enter 'Bank Charges'. Then, click on 'Update'. Close the window.
3. Access the 'Incoming Payment' function to post an incoming payment.
4. Select an A/R Invoice for payment. Consider this scenario:
A/R Invoice Balance - GBP 100
Customer Payment - GBP 100 (through Bank Transfer)
Bank Fees - GBP 5 (to be paid by the Company)
Net Amount of Cash in the Bank - GBP 95
5. Access the 'Payment Means' window. In the 'Credit Card' tab, call up the Bank Charges. Notice that the G/L Account automatically appears on the 'G/L Account' field.
6. Enter the values in the 'Credit Card No.', 'Valid Until', 'Payment Method' and 'Voucher No.' fields. Set the 'No. of Payments' to '1'.
7. In the 'Amounts Due' field, enter the amount of the bank charge. In this case, it is GBP 5.
8. Access the 'Bank Transfer' tab to complete the remaining payment details. In the 'Total' field, click on 'Copy Balance Due'. This will automatically bring the GBP 95 to the field. The GBP 95 is the net cash amount that is received in the bank. Once done, click on 'OK'.
9. Add the incoming payment transaction. The journal entry will be as follows:
Dr. Cash, GBP 95
Dr. Bank Charges, GBP 5
Cr. BP Accounts Receivable, GBP 100
Hope it helps.
Kind Regards,
Jitin
SAP Business One Forum Team

Collaborating with Editors question

Hi,
I did a complete book layout in InDesign.
The publisher now says he is not happy with the editing (my side of
things -- the design work -- is fine) and he wants the entire book to go
through another round of editing.
The book has already been through several rounds of proofreading (ie
checking the PDF for mistakes and keying these changes into InDesign),
and they don't want to lose that work. What this means is that I, as
typesetter, am the only one who has the very latest version of the text.
As there are going to be extensive changes (I'm not sure what) and the
publisher wants to work off the latest version, he wants me to export
all the text as a Word file and then the editors will work on that.
However, the publisher is aware that in such a case I'll have to redo
the layout, and he wants to avoid that extra expense, so he asked me if
there is any way that the editors can work on the text without my having
to redo the layout.
My immediate thought was InCopy (which I've never used, only heard
about) -- the publisher could use the 30-day trial (at this stage,
obviously if they like it they may purchase the thing). But
(1) I'm on CS4 and the downloads of InCopy are all CS5.5. That won't
work together, right?
(2) Can I get hold of InCopy CS4 anywhere?
(3) Is the learning curve (both for me and the editor) going to be too
steep to do this in 30 days?
(4) Are the editors going to mess up my styles? I mean, if they need
some italics, how will they know to use my italics char style? And if
they need a subtitle paragraph style, how will they know to use that? If
I'm going to have to go through the entire book figuring out what
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and I'd rather use the Word workflow.
Thanks for any advice,
Ariel

I think a lot would depend on how complicated the design of this book is. If there's a lot of formatting, dozens or hundreds of character and paragraph styles, etc., that's probably not something you're keen to re-do.
However, InCopy does have a bit of a learning curve for editors who are used to using Word. The learning curve for you shouldn't be too steep -- you'll need to learn how to create InCopy stories and export them so they'd editable by the editors, but otherwise InCopy is basically just the text editing features of InDesign, with a few extra writing tools (such as the thesaurus) thrown in. As the designer, you'll hardly ever use InCopy, if at all, but you can probably answer most questions for a new InCopy user as most editing elements are the same in both programs.
There are other things to consider too - if the editors don't have the fonts installed, they aren't going to see accurate line breaks or copyfit, and may do damage attempting to "fix" something that isn't really wrong. And as you noted, it would probably be best to provide a spec sheet showing what styles to apply where.
InCopy is a great tool, and in the hands of editors who have been trained and who have adequate support, it can save a lot of time on a project, particularly if it's planned for upfront. But I think that training needs to happen as the project is starting up, not at the stage you're currently in. Perhaps they could stick with the PDF mark-ups and send you patch files in Word for any sections that need signficiant changes.
BTW, you might want to post your question over in the main InDesign forum if you haven't already. I'm sure you'll find other InCopy users there, or others who have faced the same kind of dilemma. The main forum tends to get more traffic than the scripting one does, and you'll reach a broader range of users there.
Good luck!

Basic Building Tips

When mounting the Heat Sink and Fan be sure to be very careful to center it and to be gentle with the mounting clips. Get rough here and it will break. If you remove it then be sure to completely clean off the old Thermal Paste and to apply new paste each time it is removed and reseated. Air gaps here can kill a CPU. Be sure to carefully follow any instructions on your thermal paste so that you use the right amount and distribute it properly on the CPU for your setup.
When mounting the motherboard make sure there is nothing under the board except the proper risers and that they all line up with the correct holes in your motherboard. It is more common than you may guess to mess up here and burn up a perfectly good motherboard.
Make sure before you power up that all the power connectors are firmly seated and in place where they need to be. The square 4 pin connector on the motherboard must have a connection from the Power Supply as well as the 20 pin. In the case of the newer 24 pin ATX specs you won't have a 20 and a 4 pin plug as they are now combined. Be sure to make sure you have the right PSU for your motherboard.
Double check that the system and CPU fans are properly plugged in and they turn freely without power. (Don't stick fingers or other objects into a running fan).
Make sure that all the drives have power and are plugged into the motherboard according to your manual. In the case of a Sata drive most will have two different Power Connections but you should only use one power connector per drive.
Do a quick check that there is nothing shorting against the motherboard or cards in the machine. Keep metal or conductive objects away from any component boards or power connections.
Make sure the D-Bracket is install correctly. This can be a key piece of equipment to check if you have any post problems. You can check what the LED's mean here.
Double check that your RAM is firmly seated and inserted in the right direction in the socket. Don't laugh but I heard one guy that forced it in the wrong way and wondered why he could not post. Luckily he did not fry something.
Make sure your AGP and all other cards are properly seated. Many times a fix for displays not working is just that simple.
OK we are almost ready to fire up. As this pertains to A64's make sure that you have a power supply that is either approved for use by MSI/AMD or that you have plenty of amps on the 12 volt rail. Typically we have noted many issues based on stability with PSU's being rated at less than 24A on the 12v rail. More could become needed as you add componants like multiple SLi'ed Video cards. Find out what your power requirements are before you assume that you have enough. Too few amps can be as damaging to a system as a bad PSU.
OK fire it up and be prepared to enter CMOS setup with the DEL key. You will need to tap it repeatedly until you enter the CMOS Setup. On first setup some boards require the F1 key is used. Carefully read what is on the screen or reffer to your manual.
Good if you got this far then it is likely that you will be OK from here on out for most things. Start with entering your drive info and prepare to fire up and install windows. Keep in mind that you will need the special drivers to install your SATA Raid drives if you have any. When the windows install starts you need to keep tapping the F6 key to load those drivers from the diskette MSI supplied. "If you are using an Nvidia3 chipset with a single SATA drive and not raiding, you can skip this step, it will automatically be recognized by windows." (Tip Provided by timkessler)
If you did not make it to the CMOS setup then check for what LED's are lit on the D-bracket. Fix any problems that are indicated and repeat the prior step. In many cases a system will fail at the CPU if there is a RAM Timing issue or bad RAM. This is simply because the RAM controller is inside of the CPU now.
Now that you have your drives setup close and save CMOS Setup and proceed to install windows. Make sure that you do a clean install so that only those drivers needed are loaded into windows and running. Just transferring your drive to a newly built system is never a good idea as things will not be properly setup for your new components and you are just making more work for yourself in the end. If the info is needed on that drive then at least try a repair install so that you can get up and running. Be sure to back up that essential data and then do a clean install. Your system will thank you many times over.
Here is a link to help you through some of the items listed in Bios.
OK now you have Windows install, you need to make sure that all the motherboard drivers get installed first. They should be on a CD supplied with the motherboard or you can find them at MSI's download site. If you download them be very careful to only use the drivers for the parts you have. Any other drivers can cause damage to your system.
After all the Motherboard drivers are installed then install DirectX and any Microsoft updates for windows.
Install Video card Drivers, Sounds Card, Mouse and any other parts drivers you have in you machine. Keep in mind that if you install these before the Motherboard Drivers you will likely as not have many things that do not work right or at full speed. The order that you install things is important.
You can do some basic checks now to determine system health. Memtest86 can help you with basic memory testing. This is important as if you have memory issues with either timing or bad memory a lot of strange problems can crop up or you may not even get the system to run. Prime95 is also a very useful tool to help you determine overall system stability. 3D Marks 2001 SE can help determine your overall system health as well as testing your graphics card and determining overall system performance. There are alot of benchmarks and system tests out there to help you determine how your system is doing. Chose something basic like I showed to get you started.
At this stage you can now install software for the Internet or other uses. I typically wait and do some basic benchmarks on a system before anything gets loaded for normal operation but it is not a needed step. Do be sure to setup a Firewall to protect you before you get connected to the web though. It takes a very short period, usually measured in seconds, for an unprotected system to get messed up by spyware and trojans.
Enjoy your machine.
If you are going to overclock make sure to run the system for a few days first to make certain that things are stable and properly burned in. This step requires some knowledge so do your research. I am not going into those steps here as they are for advanced users and could void your warranties. If you decide to overclock be sure you are prepared to be able to replace parts if you do things wrong and at extra expense in most cases. Make sure if you do overclock you work with good test software to help you find the limits and do it in small steps. That will reduce but not eliminate the possibility of damaging something.
This list is currently a work in progress and will be added too over the next days and weeks. If you have something to add please PM me and I will add it in.
Edited 3-27-2005 Tiresmoke

OK, just to finish this once and for all since my rig is working flawlessly for one month now.
1. YES, you need to estimate your total current consumption on each rail and particularly on the 12 V rail.
2. YES, you need a brand name PSU, if possible with active PFC.
3. YES, your PSU's total current on 12V rail must cover your estimated calculation.
4. NO, you don't need to apply an enormous safety margin which conducts you to min. 24A on the 12V rail.
I have built an FX55 system with MSI Neo4 Platinum, 2x512 MB DDRAM OCZ 4001024ELDC-K memory, with 2x120 GB Maxtor SATA, Philips 1840K DVD-RW internal, Radeon X850XT PE video, Thermaltake case XaserV (with 5 case fans), Thermaltake PSU Purepower 560W 22A/12 V. The estimated current on 12A was 17,4 A.
It runs perfectly since one month, without any problem, and before you tell me that the safety margin is needed for future expansion, let me tell you that this is pure BS. I will never expand this system, when it will become obsolete it will be a major upgrade including Mb/video/proc and in this case changing the PSU will mean almost nothing compared to the total cost.
Besides, it is an absurd idea to think that you'll buy a PSU for life and that all your PC will be upgraded except for the PSU that you'll keep eternally. The ATX form factor's future is not certain, BTX is slowly coming, ATX 2.0 is already here with dedicated connectors for PCIX etc. etc. It is simply not worth it to invest in a golden plated PSU which you'll change anyway shortly.

Freelance Q: Client wants lower fixed price - I want hourly rate

I worked for a client's contact in January on a 300 page submission in the 1st round of 2 to win a project (8 candidates). The submission involved designing and doing the production work on 32 separate segments of the submission, with lots of text, images, and diagrams. At the time my fees were based on an hourly rate up to 120 hours (my estimate of how long the job could take). Beyond that I had to gain permission to continue.
Production went very smoothly and my relationship with all parties was excellent throughout, with the client, contact and other contributors sending content really fast. Through the 160 hours there were probably up to 40 hours spent editing and re-editing text, and adapting layout with the contact's rep sitting with me.
I reached the 120 hours ceiling at 75% complete, got permission to push on, and eventually finished on 160 hours. Hourly rate was paid the whole time. I worked on average 9 hours per day.
The submission was successful, and proceeded to the 2nd and final round (3 candidates).
I've now been asked to take part in the 2nd round, and the deadline is 14 days away (including 2x weekends and 1x national holiday). The submission will comprise 9x documents, each ranging from 30-100 sides of A4 or A3. Total page count will be 500 sides. I've been given a brief with the names and major headings of each of the documents. Some of the content, as yet an unknown % but certainly no more than 30%, will come directly from the 1st round submission. There is no real re-design, the client is happy with the design - it's mostly a production task.
I was asked to submit an estimate to my client, which I did, and then got passed on to the contact. I set a ceiling of 120 hours (8.5 hours per day at this stage) to do the work. The contact has responded to my client saying he has a budget of X for the work (less than my ceiling), and if I can do it for that I will get the job. The budget equates to 100 hours of time (7 hours per day at this stage).
Based on how the contact edited and re-edited the same information for 40 hours in the 1st round, I'm loathe to end up working for free once we go beyond 100 hours. I also would like to get this project, and help complete what I started.
Does anyone have any advice on how to go forwards with this? Any help much appreciated.
Take the project as offered at 100 hours, and swallow any extra time?
Lower my ceiling to 100 hours, but need permission to continue and charge at hourly rate after that?
Offer 5% discount on hourly rate beyond 100 hours?

I use freelancers almost exclusively. The biggest problem with hourly rate is that freelancers milk the job to death. That's the reality with hourly rate. I've figured on 12 hours, doubled it to cover myself and I get an invoice with 60 hours and I take a bath.
So what I do with my freelancers and clients is this: I agree to pay freelancer a flat rate (say $800 for a brochure) that includes up to 12 hours and 3 ronds of revisions. After that I pay $40/hr. With the client, I give them the same parameters: $1200 for brochure includes up to 12 hours which include 3 rounds of revisions. After that I invoice at $75 hour. Client is notified in writing at the 9 hour mark and signs off on paying the hourly rate after 12 hours.
As an employer, I have to protect against a freelancer taking forever and as an agency, I have to protect against clients doing revision and revision after revision without compensation for my extra expenses.
In your case, you have to decide if this is going to be long term relationship. If you think it will or would like it to, you may need to negotiate a middle ground. And in this economy, someone will gladly do the job at less than you're getting paid. But as a professional, you should be fairly compensated.
Edit: Generally speaking, the longer the project goes on, the lower the rate. Similar to buying an item in quantity. Gets much cheaper as the hours mount.
For instance, On an advertising campaign I charge $150/hr (or project rate) to come up with a concept, then $100/hour for 2-3 mockups. Once client approves look, I charge $75 hour for production. Mind you, I'm hiring people to do whatever: PS, layout, illustration, etc. If you're over the 100 hour mark this has to be straight production which I wouldn't pay a freelancer more than $20-$30 hour.

New Customer with still no service

Hi all,
On tues morning at 8am I had a working phone line and Internet connection through Talk Talk.
I was scheduled to change to BT sometime on Tues.
My new router was delivered and I had two messages and emails telling me that first my phone was now up and running, and then my Internet was too and to plug in my equipment.
Well reading all the forums I'm sure you can all guess that actually it wasn't. Nothing worked at all.
I spent the best part of 2 hours getting through the automated service to be told the fault was very close to my house and an engineer would be out to fix it before 6pm today. And they would ring me if they needed access to the property. Well guess what again? Not a sight or sound of any engineer anywhere near. But of course on contacting BT I was told 'they were working on it right now'..... No they aren't.
Apart from all the usual extra expenses I've incurred, how the hell do I actually get something done?

Hi Chidules,
Once contacting the BT care Team (Mods) they will reply either by phone or email usually within 3 to 6 working days, however you will be given a tracking number immediately after sending the request. Please keep this safe.
Please be aware that this timeframe does not include weekends and Bank Holidays. The timeframe will also vary during busy periods.
Each case is done in a strict rotation so once your mod request has reached the top of the BTCare Team's inbox then they will contact you.
The BT Care Team are a BT UK Based specialist team who have a good reputation for solving customer problems.
Cheers
jac_95 | BT.com Help Site | BT Service Status
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Follow up to recent post

Hi:
I appreciate the advice that I got regarding drive size to purchase and use with Time machine.
The next question relates to a Lacie 500 GB external drive that has eSATA 1.5Gbits as well as Firewire 800, 400 and USB 2.0. This drive is currently available.
LAcie plans to release a drive in early February that has eSATA 3.0Gbits along with other connection types.
Its a little more expensive.
Now, the only way to use an eSATA connection with a MBP is to buy an express card adapter at....I'm guessing here....around $50-$60).
The question is whether the extra expense is justified. I plan to dedicate this drive to Time Machine Backups for the foreseeable future.
Thanks,
Michael Stryker

Adding an adapter adds one more thing to the mix that can break. After the initial back up Time Machine backups go quite quickly and I'm using firewire 400. If I were in your shoes I would opt for the proven, reliable solution.

Multiple adobe ID's, one email address

I am looking at upgrading to CC from our CS6 volume license. We have 6 seats but do not need the extra cloud storage (or expense) of CC for teams, so individual licenses is the way forward. Rather than use the individual adobe id's and emails of each user, is it possible to create 6 new adobe id's each sharing a common central email address. This will make management of the software easier, should a person leave the company. As I see it, when you buy a CC license, the individual gets the license, not the computer, which could make things difficult if/when members of staff leave. I know I will be told to get CC for teams, but I cannot justify the extra expense to my MD.

Hello gravy17,
I just ran across a similar question to yours and I didn't know if you had seen it or not. I think if you look at Multiple devices one Adobe ID it may answer your question.
Cheers,
Paul

Faulty line for over a month now but BT says it is...

Has anyone got any suggestions, please? I reported a faulty line on 22nd April - it had an increasing amount noise on it (which it has had for ages but had become unbearable) including clicking, and my broadband kept dropping. I had done all the usual checks, disconnecting my home equipment and reconnecting it individually, and so on, and had checked my router which was fine. My ISP insisted that it was due to a faulty line and said that I should report it to BT. We have already had a fault repaired on the external line this year and one or two last year.
BT sent out an engineer on 24 April who traced the fault to 143m out from the junction box on our house. He went to junction box two halfway down our drive and found an absolute mess of old cabling which had been patched and cut into and bundled up and patched again, in the 50 pair cable feeding our telephone service 35 pairs were unuseable and the cable very old and damaged.
He put in a report saying that the manhole in the street needed investigating and also drew up a plan to have the cable from the street supplying our property to be replaced as it is really unviable it is in such a mess, including the JB2 cabling which has various unused and dead cables involved as well as those supplying our house). He contacted me to let me know that his manager had approved the cable replacement.
On April 30 two engineers attended and found the cable lying in water at the bottom of the manhole with our wires all corroded. They cut the wire back and recrimped it and then tied the cable up out of the water with a bit of blue nylon rope that was already down the manhole. They also looked at JB2 and agreed that the cabling needed to be sorted out. The engineers told me that someone would be out to sort out JB2 and left. After their recrimping our wires in the manhole our voice service has improved - there is still some hissing but no clicking - but the line is still unable to carry data consistently and our broadband continues to drop.
However on my BT online account later that day the fault was shown as having been fixed. I confirmed that the line was still faulty, however the case was closed anyway by 5th May even though no further work was done. I rang customer services (again - another hour or two on the phone!) and they were very apologetic and said they would reopen the case. However they did not - instead they opened a new case on 6th May, even though it is the same fault as reported on 22nd April.
Later on 6th May my account showed that the line had been fixed and the case closed, which I saw on the 7th and reopened it. On the 8th it showed that BT was going to investigate the fault and an hour later they shut the case again, saying it had been fixed. On the 9th I reopened it again. I rang customer services again, and they said that as the case had been closed I would have to start all over and have an engineer come out to check my equipment and line at my property. We were going away on holiday for a week so I booked the appointment for the first working day after our return - 20th May.
On the morning of 20th May I checked our online account and it showed that the case had been closed again. I rang customer services and sure enough the engineer's appointment had been cancelled. So I made a new appointment for 23rd May. The engineer has been today and tested the line from the junction box on the outside of our house (which is a good distance from our master socket) and said that while the line could carry voice it was not good enough to carry data properly. He looked into JB2 and the manhole in the street (which of course he is not allowed to go into to do anything so he can only look) and said that the cable was old and damaged and need to be replaced!
I watched him type up his report and upload it to BT Openreach, stating that the fault was not repaired and that the cable needed to be replaced. A couple of hours later I looked on my online account and found, with no real surprise, that the fault was showing as having been repaired and if I agreed they would shut the case down!
The engineer and I have worked out an inexpensive way of replacing the cable which requires a minimum amount of excavation along the tarmac'd drive (which we only have a right of way over anyhow), instead of which the cable could be continued along the wall down to the pavement and then taken down and into the nearest manhole which is two feet from the wall.
He has sent the A55 form in to his manager stating that the cable should be replaced in this way, (just as the last engineer did), so how can this fault be showing as fixed?
In the meantime my broadband provider Demon can see that the broadband keeps dropping, but they apparently can't do much about it. They buy ADSL provision from Cable & Wireless, who rent the line from BT, but Cable & Wireless can raise a fault with BT if the case is closed. But the BT Openreach engineers are all in agreement and reporting the line as faulty, yet BT is pretending that it has been fixed. Meanwhile my BT bill has arrived as usual and I am being asked to pay both BT and my internet provider as normal for a faulty service.
A month in and I am really at my wits end as to how to get BT to make the necessary repair. BT has claimed the fault has been fixed and closed the case several times since I first reported it on 22nd April, and shows no intention of doing what the engineers are all recommending which is to replace the old, faulty cable. In the meantime I am being hotly pursued by BT to buy BT Infinity Broadband, yet the line isn't fit to carry it, since the copper which runs from the cab in the street is unfit for purpose. Please let me know if you have any suggestions - we have been suffering with this old faulty line for some years now and it is just getting worse and worse.

Thanks for your reply John, but while the immediate problem is with the broadband the actual voice fault when it was reported was old damaged cable. All we have been given is a temporary fix, which is what yesterday's engineer put in his report. He showed it to me before he submitted it so I know that is true.
Both engineers who have attended in the last month have come to the same conclusion - that the cable is in a shocking state and needs to be replaced. We may not have a voice problem currently but we have had two repairs for voice this year alone and several over the past few years as our line keeps breaking down. The engineers are working their way through the cable as it corrodes and degrades trying to find clean pairs of copper wire to use. In the meantime we have ongoing problems with our broadband dropping - all because BT won't just get on and replace the cable.
It may be expensive for BT to replace the cable - although the engineer and I have worked out a cheaper way to do it by continuing the wire along with wall down to the street rather than trying to dig up the whole run of cable under our neighbour's newly laid tarmac on the shared drive - but actually since we have to go through this performance of BT engineers followed by Openreach engineers attending our property every few months it seems a false economy to me!
The broadband is just 'hitching a ride' with the copper line, and two engineers have agreed that the copper line is shot to bits. Once again the A55 has been cleared by the local team and passed to planning, because Openreach thinks that the cable needs to be replaced. But the BT computer system keeps shutting it down. I don't think on this occasion that it is reasonable for BT to refuse to deal with me as end user and just hand the problem on to my ISP - there is nothing they can do until the cable is replaced except reiterate what I have already told you. If we are forced to go there, that will simply necessitate another bunch of engineers coming out and looking at the problem all over again - extra expense to BT - why not just get on an fix the problem that we all know is there?
We have considered changing to BT Infinity as our area has fibre, but until the copper between us and the fibre has been replaced there is simply no point in giving even more money to BT for a service that will not be able to run at a good speed. If BT mans up and treats us decently by agreeing to replace the cable we will certainly be looking at Infinity again.

How can i convert a file in flash

how can i convert a .fla file into swf, mp4 or avi files so i can actually display them?
i made some nice animations but can't share them because i can't save them in my wished format.

HI
GOOD
I NEVER FACED SUCH KIND OF ISSUES, BUT HERE I AM GIVING SOME DETAILS ABOUT SAP RDI FORMAT,I HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM.
Description
Using the SAPscript Raw Data Interface (RDI), you can connect external text management systems to control individual requests, for example, optimizing postage expense. The interface contains all form data from the R/3 System, but no layout information such as font or page size. The external system alone is responsible for the layout and administration of the document data. The RDI is of special importance for mail processing. The external system sorts the document data from the interface and forwards the documents accordingly.
The Raw Data Interface is a certified interface and allows easy connection to external systems. However, you pay the price for this extra function, as you lose tight integration with the R/3 System. For example, you cannot find out from within an R/3 application whether the external system successfully printed and sent the documents. In addition, extra expense is incurred each time you adapt a standard form, since the system has to adapt both an internal and external form. The external tool is not an integral part of the ABAP Development Workbench, so that field information (field type, output length and so on) from the ABAP Dictionary is not available.
THANKS
MRUTYUN

How can I convert a file in SAP RDI format?

HI All,
I have to convert the data which is to be passed to the Smartform into RDI format.
I am using Application form (Print Workbench)
for sending data to smartform.
Is there any Function Module for converting data into SAP RDI format?
Should I write this FM in User-exit of application form?
Thanks & Regards,
Anshumita.

HI
GOOD
I NEVER FACED SUCH KIND OF ISSUES, BUT HERE I AM GIVING SOME DETAILS ABOUT SAP RDI FORMAT,I HOPE THIS WILL HELP YOU TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM.
Description
Using the SAPscript Raw Data Interface (RDI), you can connect external text management systems to control individual requests, for example, optimizing postage expense. The interface contains all form data from the R/3 System, but no layout information such as font or page size. The external system alone is responsible for the layout and administration of the document data. The RDI is of special importance for mail processing. The external system sorts the document data from the interface and forwards the documents accordingly.
The Raw Data Interface is a certified interface and allows easy connection to external systems. However, you pay the price for this extra function, as you lose tight integration with the R/3 System. For example, you cannot find out from within an R/3 application whether the external system successfully printed and sent the documents. In addition, extra expense is incurred each time you adapt a standard form, since the system has to adapt both an internal and external form. The external tool is not an integral part of the ABAP Development Workbench, so that field information (field type, output length and so on) from the ABAP Dictionary is not available.
THANKS
MRUTYUN

How to compare Apple Airport specs to "Wireless-G" and "Super-G" specs?

(and other faster specs)
Specifically - is my builtin Airport Extreme "card" [405.1 (3.90.34.0.p18)] faster than just the "wireless-G" specs found in mass-market wireless routers (Linksys, d-link, Netgear, etc)?
My previous wireless-G router got toasted, and I will upgrade if the extra expense will gain me added utility.
Thanks for your time.

Hi, Bruce. Your card complies with the same 802.11g standard as all the other "g" equipment on the market. "Airport Extreme" is just Apple's name for it.

Is there no way around this?!

I've just bought After Effects CS5. I've also bought a new Mac to run it on. So far, so good.
Now, this new Mac is not going to be connected to the internet. I have another computer, (this one, a PC), that I use for all my internet activities. It's my "sacrificial" computer, and I've had to wipe it and reinstall its contents several times over the years, because of viral and other attacks. I do not want to expose my new Mac to that.
So, before installing the software on my new Mac, I thought I would just check and make sure that I would be able to activate the program via this PC, even though the software is actually installed on the other computer, the Mac. I was able to do this when I bought Premiere Elements7 and Photoshop Elements 7 from Adobe. Actually, I installed those programs on a PC that isn't connected to the Net, copied the number that was generated on that computer when it was installed, and came back to this computer and entered that number into the Adobe site's activation page. This generated an activation key, which I then took back to the other PC and entered. This process activated my software. Yes, it was a bit of coming and going, but far preferable to putting my expensive graphics-dedicated computer at risk by putting it online, out in the minefield that is the Internet.
But now I find that I do not have that option with After Effects CS5. Apparently I am forced to set up an internet connection on my Mac, thus exposing it to all the hazards of the internet, just so that I can activate my (very expensive) After Effects. As I understand it, there is no option for activating via another computer.
What this seems to boil down to is that Adobe customers have to put their computers at a real risk, to protect Adobe from the possibility of piracy. And I do not accept the argument that Macs are "safer" or more secure on the Net. Maybe viruses are fewer, but obviously there would be just as much adware and spyware and god-knows-what that will contaminate a Mac. Why should customers who buy Adobe's expensive products be forced to run that risk?
Sure, I can temporarily set up my new Mac on my home network, and then permanently disable the connection as soon as I've activated my software, but what if I pick up a bunch of Internet garbage in the process? To protect the computer during that period, I'd have to install another copy of virus-protection, and that means paying for it, because my Norton has already used up its installation limit. So, that's extra expense as well as exposure to hazards.
Okay, desperate question - is there any option under any circumstances for a legitimate owner of a legitimate copy of CS5 to activate it without the very real possibility of corrupting a brand new computer?
Thanks.

Rick, I think that only applies to versions prior to CS5. I had a chat with an Adobe rep, who told me that you could activate by phone only up to version CS3. With CS5, that option isn't available any more.
Anyway, it was a storm in a teacup, really, because although my computer automatically detected my home network and connected to it, the activation process was done pretty much immediately. I guess I was only on the Net for less than a minute, (it's impossible to know for sure, because it's done silently). But I was able to disconnect afterwards and I very much doubt any harm was caused in that time.
So, all good.
Thanks for your tip, anyway.

Lack of Communication and time taken to fix a faul...

I reported a fault with my telephone line on Friday 12th November using the online reporting facility. An engineer called round on Sunday and said it was not possible to fix the fault. Despite my regular emails, i have only had automatic replies. I have called BT twice (Monday and Friday) to try to find out what is happening. I was told on Friday that a second survey would be taking place and Tuesday 23rd to establish the cause of the problem.
I live in a rural area. We do not have mobile phone coverage where I live, and so I have to drive over a mile to park at the side of a country lane to call my father, who is elderly and very unwell. He is having to call me on my mobile, causing him extra expense.
I work in a school, and yet BT seem amazed to discover that I cannot sit at a phone for 15 minutes plus whilst they try to find answers for me and, despite saying they will email me, I have only received one response.
I now discover it could take over 6 weeks from the date of the second survey to make a repair. Great!! Daughter's birthday, Christmas, New Year and no way of contacting friends and family.
Sorry for the rant, but It is incredibly frustrating to not be receiving answers.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi ruraluser,
Have you tried emailing in to the Mod team as StephanieG suggested? I have had a look through out queue but cant see anything there from you.
we'll be happy get a handle on this and let you know whats going.
Send me in an email please with your BT account and telephone number along with a link back to this thread.
Just send to the email address in my profile and mark FAO Craig please.
Thx
Craig
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
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Small Network Trouble

I am currently trying to setup a small network at my Mothers work and I have ran into a small problem. Here is the situation: I have ten iMac G4 that I have networked together using a NetGear switch. I now need to get internet to these ten computers. The hard part about this is I need the switch to get the internet from an AirPort Extreme in here office and the switch is located down the hallway in another room. I don't have the option of running a sing CAT5 cable from the Base Station to the switch it needs to be done wirelessly. I will include a link to twitpic (http://twitpic.com/1x1xsz) where I have uploaded a diagram that I drew to give you a visualization of my problem.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
Thanks

Welcome to the discussions!
You might want to explore all the options.
You could use wireless and setup an AirPort Express to "join" the wireless network that the Airport Extreme creates, then enable the ethernet port on the device to feed the switch.
While this should work most of the time, you would be trusting an entire network to a single wireless connection. I would think long and hard about this and use this only if there were no other alternatives.
You could also use a pair of ethernet powerline adapters to transmit the ethernet signal over the AC powerline. Just run an ethernet cable from the AirPort Extreme to an adapter and plug it in the wall. Plug the other adapter in the wall and then run and ethernet cable from the adapter to the switch.
Works great. Faster and more reliable than wireless by far. Newer powerline equipment is almost up to Gigabit speeds...almost as good as running an ethernet cable.
Just make sure that everything is on the same master electrical circuit.
Whichever you decide upon, it would also be a good idea to have a full understanding of the store's return policy in case things don't work out as hoped. Sometimes, it really is worth the extra expense to have the security of a traditional ethernet connection.

Extra expenses at invoiving stage

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