Favorite backup methods?

Has anyone used Backup 3 here on the the Apple site?
Any other software that you like, especially for graphics files?
Better to use an external hard drive? Or online storage?
Thanks for any suggestions and input!
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

If you want to spend the best $20 you ever have, get this:
SuperDuper!
This will work perfectly with an external firewire drive, and will provide simple, and reliable backups down the road...
LaCie and Micronet as well as Other World Computing all sell good FW drives - that's what I recommend and use myself.
Scott

Similar Messages

FULL RECOMMENDED BACKUP METHOD

I did the following:
Logged out of both Skype accounts, quit both, and checked no Skype process running.
Copied everything from C:\Users\[my name]\AppData\Roaming\Skype to my external drive, including the main.db files for both accounts.
Uninstalled Skype.
Installed SkypeSetupFull.exe (not SkypeSetup.exe) from Download.com.
Copied everything back from my external drive to C:\Users\[my name]\AppData\Roaming\Skype, including the main.db files for both accounts.
Logged into both accounts again.
Is this all data?
Is it the optimal backup method?
Favorites doesn't have any contacts now.
I did have custom lists for contacts, but haven't now.
I don't see any call history or have anything under Recent Conversations.
Options are their defaults.
My unused credit isn't displayed top left next to my name, though it is in My Account.
This is the case for both accounts.
I installed Database Browser & DB Browser for SQLite, but wasn't technically-minded enough to know how to use them.
I've come across software that may help in future, but I thought Skype might have been designed to make the job easier than this.
I'd be really pleased if anyone could help. Replies to this might answer many other people's backup questions too.
Andrew.

56 views and no solution?! I'm amazed that Skype doesn't have Backup & Restore in the Options, or even tell us the optimal backup method.
Do moderators not even know the answer?
Andrew.

Favorite Sharpening Methods?

Copied from the archive, with BUMP replies weeded out. ======================================================= Lindas Graphics - 04:29am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific Discussion on favorite sharpening methods in Photoshop. I normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 / Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different. I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 05:52am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#1 of 68) At the pro level ... well then the answer must be "it depends". Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 07:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#2 of 68) This is a good starting point: http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/11242.html Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 07:41am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#3 of 68) Mathias, Thanks for that link. Another good article from Bruce. But I'm a little puzzled by "Figure 1a: Unsharpened" which to me is clearly sharpened already. Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 10:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#4 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:34am PST Mathias: I remember reading that tutorial in the past but forgot where it was. Bruce Fraser is one of my favorites when it comes to Photoshop. I've printed the tutorial along with the follow-up one he did. I'm glad you posted the link. Thanks! I'm interested in the methods you people use for sharpening. Does anyone else use the High Pass Filter? <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 11:30am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#5 of 68) Linda, Yes, I do. I use the overlay sharpening technique. Sometimes. It really depends on the subject. For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times. Works for me! See http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ for various techniques I´ve recorded, including the overlay sharpening technique. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 12:47pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#6 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 01:48pm PST I use a technique that has delivered reliable results for me, for what it's worth... I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. Its not original, it's a modification of an action found in PhotoScan Factory actions found in Xchange. But it produces VERY good results for me on MOST of the stuff I do. I hope this thread keeps going as sharpening is of huge iterest to me since my work requires the removal of moire patterns. [edit] By the way, i use the high pass filter followed by fade on the textual portions of my images (black text on a white background) that have been overblurred by the gaussian blurr filter. It produces some pretty nice results for me. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:55pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#7 of 68) Now this is getting interesting. I appreciate the elaboration. I look forward to trying your techniques and variation. Thanks Mathias and Tony. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> glen deman - 07:45pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#8 of 68) You can also sharpen individual channels. Try sharpening (or unsharpening, I guess it is!) the "weakest" channel of the image, or the channel with the least detail. I've found that this will often be the red channel; when you do this, you sharpen the image but avoid some of the pitfalls of sharpening, like halos and artifacts. I think I saw this in Photoshop Artistry. Glen <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Danny Raphael - 09:34pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#9 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 10:37pm PST Here's a no cost edge sharpening action that's pretty nifty. Scroll down to the BOTTOM of this page at FredMiranda.com: http://www.fredmiranda.com/Action_profilesPage/index.html <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 10:57pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#10 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:58pm PST Danny, I would say LOW cost, not NO cost - he's charging $8.50 for the action. Personally, I'll pass. Thanks for the link though. Peace, Tony [Edit] DOH! I didn't scroll down far enough, there's a "lite" version offered for free below the one he charges for. My mistake, sorry. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mark Reynolds - 05:25am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#11 of 68) Seems fairly pointless - I can almost tell you what the $8.50 will get; you: Make an edge mask first using the Find Edges filter on an alpha channel. This can then be blurred slightly and Levels adjusted. Duplicate the base layer and run unsharp mask to taste on the duplicate. Load the alpha channel into a layer mask on the Sharpened layer. This will sharpen the edges only - very useful for skin tones where you don't want any accentuation of noise and texture. The layer mask can also be adjusted (Blur and Levels again, and Maximum ) to enhance or spread the sharpening. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 06:09am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#12 of 68) I´m one of those that believe that Freds actions, although valuable, are not worth the money. But I know that a lot of people are willing to pay. Actually, seeing Fred charging for his actions was a major motivator for me to develop the digital deluxe action set. - Which is free ofcourse. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Don Stefanik - 12:02pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#13 of 68) Edited: 24-Jul-2002 at 01:04pm PST And a great set of actions they are Mathias... I use them quite a bit. They are one of my favorites. Don <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:13pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#14 of 68) Thanks Don, Only the de-noise actions are my own invention, the rest are variations of known techniques, invented by others. I just recorded and published them. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 04:43pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#15 of 68) An off-the-wall sharpening approach that I use very occasionally. Sometimes a subject (especially plain tones) can stand strong amounts of only the light or the dark part of the USM halo. You can separate them thus: Duplicate the layer and USM the copy (you can go slightly harder than normal). Duplicate the copy, and change the blend mode of one copy to lighten, and the other copy to darken. At 100% opacity for both copies, you have the normal effect of the USM, but by varying the opacity of these layers, you can separate the amount of lighter halo and darker halo the subject gets, allowing slightly more USM than normal without it looking too crunchy or noisy. I think I read this in Dan Margulis' Book Professional Guide to Color Correction, which has an excellent chapter on sharpening with heaps of other ideas. Warm regards, Dean [Posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 05:38pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#16 of 68) Very cool ideas people. I'm enjoying this and keeping notes for when I can stop long enough to experiment on different kinds of images. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:17pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#17 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 01:28pm PST I'm back and want to keep this thread alive. Re-reading your posts and think your ideas so far are interesting. The link Mathias provided also covers Noise. I think dealing with Noise goes right along with the topic of Sharpening. I welcome your comments on Noise as well. I personally try to deal with Noise channel by channel. As a rule the blue channel seems to have the most Noise. But what I find tricky is when the sharpest channel (usually green) ends up having the most Noise, which does happen sometimes. My method is to use the Median Filter on the Noisy Channel then Fade. If you do it channel by channel you cannot use Luminosity Mode though -- one advantange of correcting all the channels together. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 01:07pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#18 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:27pm PST Re Post #5: <<For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times. >> Mathias: On Web photos I'm curious why you do the sharpening in quarters instead of all at once. I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode. I am experimenting on a low res photo of an older person I recently took with my digital camera. I tried it both ways (all at once and in 4ths) but cannot seem to see any difference between the two methods. By the way, I'm not trying to find holes in your methods, on the contrary I think they are interesting and I'm enjoying the challenge. Oh yes, and another thing -- Your method of determining Radius is helpful. I tried that and came up with the same setting you did: .3 <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 01:44pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#19 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:46pm PST Okay Tony, it's your turn. ) I'm slowing making my way down the list. Re: Post #6 << I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. >> Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights? If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious. One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct? <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:47pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#20 of 68) Linda, I have also developed a noise action that basically medians the L+a+b channels manually, and applies a 'manual' edgemask. This action demands more selective mask editing, and more user input, but it is 'stepless' - usable on all ISO speeds. This action, which is just a classic median de-noiser with a twitch, is not published yet. The subject of noise is pretty big.. It is also interesting. Sharpen in four steps Try it on another image. You really need different sharping for each image. Examine at 200%. The edge halos in the stepped version is less pronounced. You can use this stepping method on all the classic filters and techniques for a better resampled pixel. I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode. I used to do that. Now I sharpen a merged layer and put this in Luminosity mode to avoid any color shifted pixels, and to keep everything neat and un-destructed. If I want, I apply an edgemask to this layer. There´s another method I use. This method is called <a href=http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/USM.HTM>Real Unsharp Mask</A> (I´ve got it actionized as well). It is very nice for certain subjects and contrast enhancements. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 02:55pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#21 of 68) Mathias, There was some mention of actions that you have for download. I'd like to try them. Where are they please? Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:30pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#22 of 68) Here: http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ (I think its listed in my profile.) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:40pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#23 of 68) Mathias: I tried your "Real Digital Unsharp Masking" technique on the same photo I was experimenting with previously. I found at the end that the photo was considerably darker so I duplicated the original untuched layer, selected Screen Mode and lowered the opacity to 70%. Above this layer is the layer with the mask applied in Luminosity Mode, opacity lowered to 50%. Below both layers is an original untouched layer. The results are good but different from the other (4 Times) method. I can't tell which is better. Both are good. I enjoyed seeing how Unsharp Masking works this way. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:43pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#24 of 68) The luminosity switching is the big problem with RUSM. You can control it by experimenting with setting the brightness / contrast levels, and/or with a final curves adjustment layer. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 03:46pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#25 of 68) Mathias, I very much like the Real Unsharp Mark... like sharpening and a contrast mask in one. Linda... after hard unsharp masking, I sometimes attack the worst of the noise in shadows with the "Dust and Scratches" (D&S) filter on a duplicate of the image. Use a small radius (1-2) and very high threshold (30-60) to just zap those pixels that have gone way out of line. Use a luminosity mask to just let the D&S layer show through in the shadows, otherwise the image will be softened overall. It's similar to your median approach. Dean [posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:50pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#26 of 68) I'll give it a try Dean. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 04:09pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#27 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 05:13pm PST Dean: That did not work very well on the image I'm experimenting with. It seems those settings do not produce a very good blur. It actually seems to produce extra artifacts. I'm just wondering why you might have chosen those settings. When I use D&S with Radius 1, Amount 1, Luminosity Mode, Opacity 50% -- It seems to work better. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 05:59pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#28 of 68) Thank you, Mathias. --Victor <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 08:37pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#29 of 68) Linda, Ah... it's probably due to differences in medium. I'm using 4000dpi scans of 35mm film, often fairly grainy film. Your digital image probably starts off with less noise, so hard USM doesn't give you the wacky pixels that I get. Play with whatever settings seem to work best for you. Good luck! Dean [posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 10:12pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#30 of 68) Hi Carol... RE: "Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights?" Yes. "If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious." I found an action in Adobe XChange called PhotoScan Factory that contains this technique - it's not my own. I have had to tweak the glowing edges and gaussian blur settings from time to time, but in general through trial an error have found a range of values that I like. So, I run the action with my tweaked settings, if I don't like it, I run it with the dialog boxes enabled and adjust more. In general my settings for glowing filters are: Edge Width 3 Edge Brightness 8 Smoothness 5 Then a gaussian blur of 0.9 to 1.1 is run on the lightness channel copy that had the Glowing Edges Filter run on it. Then the channel is loaded as a selection, then deleted. Finally, the glowing edges/blurred selection is Sharpened at about 180 with a radius of 2.1 and threshold of 0. After this is done, of course, it's just clean up with the lightness channel deleted and converted back to RGB mode. RE" One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct?" Exactly. I have found that by doing it this way, I experience little or no color shift as compared to most USM techniques. It is fair to point out the following. Most of my images have moire patterns - it's the nature of my work. So prior to running the sharpening procedure, the images are heavily blurred using gaussian blur (heavily =1.1 - 1.3). Since that is the case, the sharpening process I use *may* be too strong for some, but is just about perfect (or as perfect as you can get until I read another cool method in this thread <grin>) for me. I'll be reading with interest... Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:07am Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#31 of 68) Dean: You are probably right on target there. I'm playing around with an image that I've downsized to 72dpi. It does make a difference. Thanks! Tony: Thanks for all the helpful information. I've got work to do this morning but will come back to this conversation again when I get a breather. This is quite interesting. Linda -- not Carol ) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 01:00pm Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#32 of 68) Linda, Linda -- not Carol ) Geeze, I'm sorry - don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. You may herein refer to me as Dolt. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:36am Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#33 of 68) LOL -- No problem Tony. I can't wait to come back to this topic as soon as I catch up on other things and can give it more attention. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lexorin - 03:12pm Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#34 of 68) Edited: 01-Aug-2002 at 04:17pm PST Just noticed someone already mentioned this... Convert image to LAB mode. Select the lightness channel in the channels palette. Run unsharp mask as you normally would. Revert image back to original mode. Working on just the lightness channel in lab mode keeps unsharpmask from sharpening your color values. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:57pm Aug 4, 2002 Pacific (#35 of 68) It never hurts to restate something like that Lexorin. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 08:21am Aug 6, 2002 Pacific (#36 of 68) Keeping this thread alive. Will be doing some intensive repairs to my hard drive, followed by reinstallation of software. I hope to come back to this thread when things are back to normal. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:18am Aug 8, 2002 Pacific (#37 of 68) I found aPDF about different methods of sharpening: http://www.dimage.org/NewFiles/J.%20Winberg%20Sharpening%20Presenta tionText.pdf <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 08:20am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#38 of 68) Pierre, That was a very nice contribution. I happen to be saving this thread as sharpening methods are extremely important. Thanks. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Enrique Ivern - 11:07am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#39 of 68) Pierre, thanks...always useful to have a brief cookbook to consult! Not clear if you're the author...if so, thanks again, if not, thanks to the unknown author... Cheers. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> vEnrique Ivern - 03:11pm Aug 12, 2002 Pacific (#40 of 68) Pierre, I just printed the whole document....thanks also then to Jack Winberg, the author. Cheers, <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:34am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#41 of 68) I said I've found it using Google... I'm still in the learning curve of PS (as EVERY user is ) Maybe one day... <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 01:06am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#42 of 68) I have to say that I am having some VERY nice results from the Digital Deluxe action set, specifically the contrast masking, edge masking, and high pass sharpening. The high pass sharpening adds that "ever so little" tweak I need after my normal sharpening methods. Great Actions, Thanks! <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 08:37am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#43 of 68) You´re welcome, Tony. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 02:59pm Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#44 of 68) I'm so glad to see that you all are still participating. This is a nice group. Thank you Pierre for the PDF link. I'm keeping busy and so unable to continue experimenting for now, but like Tony I'm keeping this thread for future use and reference. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:11pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#45 of 68) Things have been hectic at this end. I have no idea when I'll have time to get back to this topic. Still, I guess I'll try to keep it alive since it contains so much good stuff. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> dave milbut - 07:20pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#46 of 68) I've got Kai's PT v6... has anyone had any luck with the equalizer there for sharpening? Everything seems so drastic when I use it, alot of contrast sharpening. I'd like to hear from some people who've had more luck than me 'cuz I think I'm missing something there. Thans for a great thread, also saving. dave <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:48pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#47 of 68) I've got KPT 6 too but never used the Equalizer. I too would be interested in comments on it. So far I just keep doing the UnSharp Mask method. It works well for most normal sharpening. Specialized sharpening seems good for special needs. Noise reduction is often just as important as sharpening. What's challenging is when you have to deal with both noise and sharpening on the same photo. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> dave milbut - 02:08pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#48 of 68) For noise reduction (and addition), I'm really digging the beta of AlienSkin's Image Doctor. I can't wait for the full package to be released. You can get the beta from their site and play around with it. dave <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:59am Aug 26, 2002 Pacific (#49 of 68) Thanks Dave. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 11:05am Sep 9, 2002 Pacific (#50 of 68) I found this pretty nifty trick from Russell Browns Tips site. A very nice technique that plays as a QT movie. http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 04:36am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#51 of 68) Hi Tony. I've been busy dealing with computer problems in the middle of trying to keep my work going. I've ordered a new Mac (ducking) so hopefully I will have more time when things start running smoothly again. Thanks for the link. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 04:39am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#52 of 68) Linda, I too am keeping a keen eye on this thread and in fact, have made a PDF out of it since I will have to review it from time to time. Since the work we do involves removing Moire patterns, sharpening is of paramount interest <wink>. Get your new system, have some fun, then... back to work for you! <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:17am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#53 of 68) Yes Sir! ) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 03:55am Sep 17, 2002 Pacific (#54 of 68) Again other Sharpening tutorials (not new) at: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/smart_sharp.shtml an High-Pass one: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/high-pass-sharpening.sh tml <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:35am Oct 1, 2002 Pacific (#55 of 68) Thanks Pierre. I'm swamped. I'll be back again. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:39am Nov 28, 2002 Pacific (#58 of 68) Edited: 28-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST Maybe some of you might like to comment on an opposite problem. I've just done a photo correction. That part was easy. Dealing with noise is the hard part. The noise is out of control. I've tried targetting individual channels as well as going into Lab Mode but not getting the best results so far. Here is a <A HREF=http://www.graphicspalmbeach.com/porfolio/burttracyjohn.html><FO NT COLOR=ROYALBLUE>link to the page</A> I posted. You can see the noise in the enlarged eyes portion. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 04:16am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#59 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 04:17am PST Lindas, When I hear noise, I think about Mathia's Digital deluxe toolbox... http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ there are other non-freeware package for this task... try also the demo from http://www.neatimage.com/ (stand alone program) Hey, who's the guy next to Tracy and John? (on the sharpening side, I found this: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/PSTV_downloads.html while searching for de-noising actions) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 05:39am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#60 of 68) Thanks Pierre. In this case, I think NeatImage is the better choice. De-noise Deluxe is aimed at digital noise, and this seems more like film grain to me. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:41am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#61 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST Pierre: Thank you for the links. << Who's the guy next to Tracy and John? >> You got it! ) Mathias: You're right, it is film grain. I had only a photo to work with. It was scanned on the Epson Expression 1680 at a higher resolution and then sized. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:27pm Dec 15, 2002 Pacific (#62 of 68) Edited: 15-Dec-2002 at 07:27pm PST I've done more practice on noise by taking the channels apart, giving each one a major overhaul, then pasting them over the original document's channels. Trouble is, what looks good on screen looks not so wonderful when printed. I really want to improve my own PS techniques rather than use a plug-in. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 10:21am Jan 10, 2003 Pacific (#63 of 68) Edited: 10-Jan-2003 at 10:22am PST I think Mathias' actions are pretty impressive. It's worth posting his LINK again. One day I plan to study each action step in detail. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 09:44am Jan 11, 2003 Pacific (#64 of 68) I agree with Lindas - Mathias' actions are part of a process that I use daily; although I've tweaked them a bit, his concept in sharpening, edge enhancement, and contrast masking is quite sweet. When I first downloaded his actions, I posted in a thread my thanks to him as once of them was the finishting touch that I needed. It's worth repeating the "Thanks!" Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Tenna Sutfin - 09:40am Jan 28, 2003 Pacific (#65 of 68) Can you send me your action for ridding yourself of moire patterns? [email protected] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> End of Archived Thread

Copied from the archive, with BUMP replies weeded out. ======================================================= Lindas Graphics - 04:29am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific Discussion on favorite sharpening methods in Photoshop. I normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 / Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different. I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 05:52am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#1 of 68) At the pro level ... well then the answer must be "it depends". Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 07:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#2 of 68) This is a good starting point: http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/11242.html Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 07:41am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#3 of 68) Mathias, Thanks for that link. Another good article from Bruce. But I'm a little puzzled by "Figure 1a: Unsharpened" which to me is clearly sharpened already. Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 10:32am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#4 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:34am PST Mathias: I remember reading that tutorial in the past but forgot where it was. Bruce Fraser is one of my favorites when it comes to Photoshop. I've printed the tutorial along with the follow-up one he did. I'm glad you posted the link. Thanks! I'm interested in the methods you people use for sharpening. Does anyone else use the High Pass Filter? <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 11:30am Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#5 of 68) Linda, Yes, I do. I use the overlay sharpening technique. Sometimes. It really depends on the subject. For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times. Works for me! See http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ for various techniques I´ve recorded, including the overlay sharpening technique. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 12:47pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#6 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 01:48pm PST I use a technique that has delivered reliable results for me, for what it's worth... I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. Its not original, it's a modification of an action found in PhotoScan Factory actions found in Xchange. But it produces VERY good results for me on MOST of the stuff I do. I hope this thread keeps going as sharpening is of huge iterest to me since my work requires the removal of moire patterns. [edit] By the way, i use the high pass filter followed by fade on the textual portions of my images (black text on a white background) that have been overblurred by the gaussian blurr filter. It produces some pretty nice results for me. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:55pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#7 of 68) Now this is getting interesting. I appreciate the elaboration. I look forward to trying your techniques and variation. Thanks Mathias and Tony. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> glen deman - 07:45pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#8 of 68) You can also sharpen individual channels. Try sharpening (or unsharpening, I guess it is!) the "weakest" channel of the image, or the channel with the least detail. I've found that this will often be the red channel; when you do this, you sharpen the image but avoid some of the pitfalls of sharpening, like halos and artifacts. I think I saw this in Photoshop Artistry. Glen <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Danny Raphael - 09:34pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#9 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 10:37pm PST Here's a no cost edge sharpening action that's pretty nifty. Scroll down to the BOTTOM of this page at FredMiranda.com: http://www.fredmiranda.com/Action_profilesPage/index.html <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 10:57pm Jul 23, 2002 Pacific (#10 of 68) Edited: 23-Jul-2002 at 11:58pm PST Danny, I would say LOW cost, not NO cost - he's charging $8.50 for the action. Personally, I'll pass. Thanks for the link though. Peace, Tony [Edit] DOH! I didn't scroll down far enough, there's a "lite" version offered for free below the one he charges for. My mistake, sorry. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mark Reynolds - 05:25am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#11 of 68) Seems fairly pointless - I can almost tell you what the $8.50 will get; you: Make an edge mask first using the Find Edges filter on an alpha channel. This can then be blurred slightly and Levels adjusted. Duplicate the base layer and run unsharp mask to taste on the duplicate. Load the alpha channel into a layer mask on the Sharpened layer. This will sharpen the edges only - very useful for skin tones where you don't want any accentuation of noise and texture. The layer mask can also be adjusted (Blur and Levels again, and Maximum ) to enhance or spread the sharpening. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 06:09am Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#12 of 68) I´m one of those that believe that Freds actions, although valuable, are not worth the money. But I know that a lot of people are willing to pay. Actually, seeing Fred charging for his actions was a major motivator for me to develop the digital deluxe action set. - Which is free ofcourse. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Don Stefanik - 12:02pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#13 of 68) Edited: 24-Jul-2002 at 01:04pm PST And a great set of actions they are Mathias... I use them quite a bit. They are one of my favorites. Don <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:13pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#14 of 68) Thanks Don, Only the de-noise actions are my own invention, the rest are variations of known techniques, invented by others. I just recorded and published them. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 04:43pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#15 of 68) An off-the-wall sharpening approach that I use very occasionally. Sometimes a subject (especially plain tones) can stand strong amounts of only the light or the dark part of the USM halo. You can separate them thus: Duplicate the layer and USM the copy (you can go slightly harder than normal). Duplicate the copy, and change the blend mode of one copy to lighten, and the other copy to darken. At 100% opacity for both copies, you have the normal effect of the USM, but by varying the opacity of these layers, you can separate the amount of lighter halo and darker halo the subject gets, allowing slightly more USM than normal without it looking too crunchy or noisy. I think I read this in Dan Margulis' Book Professional Guide to Color Correction, which has an excellent chapter on sharpening with heaps of other ideas. Warm regards, Dean [Posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 05:38pm Jul 24, 2002 Pacific (#16 of 68) Very cool ideas people. I'm enjoying this and keeping notes for when I can stop long enough to experiment on different kinds of images. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:17pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#17 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 01:28pm PST I'm back and want to keep this thread alive. Re-reading your posts and think your ideas so far are interesting. The link Mathias provided also covers Noise. I think dealing with Noise goes right along with the topic of Sharpening. I welcome your comments on Noise as well. I personally try to deal with Noise channel by channel. As a rule the blue channel seems to have the most Noise. But what I find tricky is when the sharpest channel (usually green) ends up having the most Noise, which does happen sometimes. My method is to use the Median Filter on the Noisy Channel then Fade. If you do it channel by channel you cannot use Luminosity Mode though -- one advantange of correcting all the channels together. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 01:07pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#18 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:27pm PST Re Post #5: <<For web photos, I often use PS´ USM with a setting of 50, 0.3, and then re-apply it often four times. If you don´t know what the right radius setting should be, first, pull up the amount setting to max, then adjust the radius setting untill the right details are sharpened, then lower the amount to a reasonable setting - and then use 25% of this amount and re-apply four times. >> Mathias: On Web photos I'm curious why you do the sharpening in quarters instead of all at once. I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode. I am experimenting on a low res photo of an older person I recently took with my digital camera. I tried it both ways (all at once and in 4ths) but cannot seem to see any difference between the two methods. By the way, I'm not trying to find holes in your methods, on the contrary I think they are interesting and I'm enjoying the challenge. Oh yes, and another thing -- Your method of determining Radius is helpful. I tried that and came up with the same setting you did: .3 <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 01:44pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#19 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 02:46pm PST Okay Tony, it's your turn. ) I'm slowing making my way down the list. Re: Post #6 << I convert the image to lab mode, and make my adjustments on the the Lightness layer (a copy really) to avoid color shifts. I basically select the glowing edges, apply a gaussian blur filter, then basically, apply the Unsharp filter. When it's finished, I convert back to RGB mode. >> Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights? If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious. One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct? <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 02:47pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#20 of 68) Linda, I have also developed a noise action that basically medians the L+a+b channels manually, and applies a 'manual' edgemask. This action demands more selective mask editing, and more user input, but it is 'stepless' - usable on all ISO speeds. This action, which is just a classic median de-noiser with a twitch, is not published yet. The subject of noise is pretty big.. It is also interesting. Sharpen in four steps Try it on another image. You really need different sharping for each image. Examine at 200%. The edge halos in the stepped version is less pronounced. You can use this stepping method on all the classic filters and techniques for a better resampled pixel. I assume that you do not use the Fade filter combined with Luminosity Mode. I used to do that. Now I sharpen a merged layer and put this in Luminosity mode to avoid any color shifted pixels, and to keep everything neat and un-destructed. If I want, I apply an edgemask to this layer. There´s another method I use. This method is called <a href=http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/USM.HTM>Real Unsharp Mask</A> (I´ve got it actionized as well). It is very nice for certain subjects and contrast enhancements. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 02:55pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#21 of 68) Mathias, There was some mention of actions that you have for download. I'd like to try them. Where are they please? Regards, Victor Lee. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:30pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#22 of 68) Here: http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ (I think its listed in my profile.) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:40pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#23 of 68) Mathias: I tried your "Real Digital Unsharp Masking" technique on the same photo I was experimenting with previously. I found at the end that the photo was considerably darker so I duplicated the original untuched layer, selected Screen Mode and lowered the opacity to 70%. Above this layer is the layer with the mask applied in Luminosity Mode, opacity lowered to 50%. Below both layers is an original untouched layer. The results are good but different from the other (4 Times) method. I can't tell which is better. Both are good. I enjoyed seeing how Unsharp Masking works this way. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 03:43pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#24 of 68) The luminosity switching is the big problem with RUSM. You can control it by experimenting with setting the brightness / contrast levels, and/or with a final curves adjustment layer. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 03:46pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#25 of 68) Mathias, I very much like the Real Unsharp Mark... like sharpening and a contrast mask in one. Linda... after hard unsharp masking, I sometimes attack the worst of the noise in shadows with the "Dust and Scratches" (D&S) filter on a duplicate of the image. Use a small radius (1-2) and very high threshold (30-60) to just zap those pixels that have gone way out of line. Use a luminosity mask to just let the D&S layer show through in the shadows, otherwise the image will be softened overall. It's similar to your median approach. Dean [posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:50pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#26 of 68) I'll give it a try Dean. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 04:09pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#27 of 68) Edited: 30-Jul-2002 at 05:13pm PST Dean: That did not work very well on the image I'm experimenting with. It seems those settings do not produce a very good blur. It actually seems to produce extra artifacts. I'm just wondering why you might have chosen those settings. When I use D&S with Radius 1, Amount 1, Luminosity Mode, Opacity 50% -- It seems to work better. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> pleader - 05:59pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#28 of 68) Thank you, Mathias. --Victor <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Dean Holland - 08:37pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#29 of 68) Linda, Ah... it's probably due to differences in medium. I'm using 4000dpi scans of 35mm film, often fairly grainy film. Your digital image probably starts off with less noise, so hard USM doesn't give you the wacky pixels that I get. Play with whatever settings seem to work best for you. Good luck! Dean [posted from Australia] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 10:12pm Jul 30, 2002 Pacific (#30 of 68) Hi Carol... RE: "Question: When you select the glowing edges, does that mean you run the Glowing Edges Filter first and then select the highlights?" Yes. "If so, how do you determine what settings to use for the Glowing Edges Filter? And then how do you determine what settings you use for the Gaussian Blur Filter? Just curious." I found an action in Adobe XChange called PhotoScan Factory that contains this technique - it's not my own. I have had to tweak the glowing edges and gaussian blur settings from time to time, but in general through trial an error have found a range of values that I like. So, I run the action with my tweaked settings, if I don't like it, I run it with the dialog boxes enabled and adjust more. In general my settings for glowing filters are: Edge Width 3 Edge Brightness 8 Smoothness 5 Then a gaussian blur of 0.9 to 1.1 is run on the lightness channel copy that had the Glowing Edges Filter run on it. Then the channel is loaded as a selection, then deleted. Finally, the glowing edges/blurred selection is Sharpened at about 180 with a radius of 2.1 and threshold of 0. After this is done, of course, it's just clean up with the lightness channel deleted and converted back to RGB mode. RE" One more thing: I assume you use this Lightness Channel Copy just as a means of loading the edges for the final step of running unsharp mask on the original channel, followed by deletion of this channel copy. Is this correct?" Exactly. I have found that by doing it this way, I experience little or no color shift as compared to most USM techniques. It is fair to point out the following. Most of my images have moire patterns - it's the nature of my work. So prior to running the sharpening procedure, the images are heavily blurred using gaussian blur (heavily =1.1 - 1.3). Since that is the case, the sharpening process I use *may* be too strong for some, but is just about perfect (or as perfect as you can get until I read another cool method in this thread <grin>) for me. I'll be reading with interest... Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:07am Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#31 of 68) Dean: You are probably right on target there. I'm playing around with an image that I've downsized to 72dpi. It does make a difference. Thanks! Tony: Thanks for all the helpful information. I've got work to do this morning but will come back to this conversation again when I get a breather. This is quite interesting. Linda -- not Carol ) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 01:00pm Jul 31, 2002 Pacific (#32 of 68) Linda, Linda -- not Carol ) Geeze, I'm sorry - don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. You may herein refer to me as Dolt. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:36am Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#33 of 68) LOL -- No problem Tony. I can't wait to come back to this topic as soon as I catch up on other things and can give it more attention. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lexorin - 03:12pm Aug 1, 2002 Pacific (#34 of 68) Edited: 01-Aug-2002 at 04:17pm PST Just noticed someone already mentioned this... Convert image to LAB mode. Select the lightness channel in the channels palette. Run unsharp mask as you normally would. Revert image back to original mode. Working on just the lightness channel in lab mode keeps unsharpmask from sharpening your color values. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:57pm Aug 4, 2002 Pacific (#35 of 68) It never hurts to restate something like that Lexorin. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 08:21am Aug 6, 2002 Pacific (#36 of 68) Keeping this thread alive. Will be doing some intensive repairs to my hard drive, followed by reinstallation of software. I hope to come back to this thread when things are back to normal. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:18am Aug 8, 2002 Pacific (#37 of 68) I found aPDF about different methods of sharpening: http://www.dimage.org/NewFiles/J.%20Winberg%20Sharpening%20Presenta tionText.pdf <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 08:20am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#38 of 68) Pierre, That was a very nice contribution. I happen to be saving this thread as sharpening methods are extremely important. Thanks. Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Enrique Ivern - 11:07am Aug 9, 2002 Pacific (#39 of 68) Pierre, thanks...always useful to have a brief cookbook to consult! Not clear if you're the author...if so, thanks again, if not, thanks to the unknown author... Cheers. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> vEnrique Ivern - 03:11pm Aug 12, 2002 Pacific (#40 of 68) Pierre, I just printed the whole document....thanks also then to Jack Winberg, the author. Cheers, <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 12:34am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#41 of 68) I said I've found it using Google... I'm still in the learning curve of PS (as EVERY user is ) Maybe one day... <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 01:06am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#42 of 68) I have to say that I am having some VERY nice results from the Digital Deluxe action set, specifically the contrast masking, edge masking, and high pass sharpening. The high pass sharpening adds that "ever so little" tweak I need after my normal sharpening methods. Great Actions, Thanks! <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 08:37am Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#43 of 68) You´re welcome, Tony. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 02:59pm Aug 13, 2002 Pacific (#44 of 68) I'm so glad to see that you all are still participating. This is a nice group. Thank you Pierre for the PDF link. I'm keeping busy and so unable to continue experimenting for now, but like Tony I'm keeping this thread for future use and reference. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:11pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#45 of 68) Things have been hectic at this end. I have no idea when I'll have time to get back to this topic. Still, I guess I'll try to keep it alive since it contains so much good stuff. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> dave milbut - 07:20pm Aug 23, 2002 Pacific (#46 of 68) I've got Kai's PT v6... has anyone had any luck with the equalizer there for sharpening? Everything seems so drastic when I use it, alot of contrast sharpening. I'd like to hear from some people who've had more luck than me 'cuz I think I'm missing something there. Thans for a great thread, also saving. dave <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 12:48pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#47 of 68) I've got KPT 6 too but never used the Equalizer. I too would be interested in comments on it. So far I just keep doing the UnSharp Mask method. It works well for most normal sharpening. Specialized sharpening seems good for special needs. Noise reduction is often just as important as sharpening. What's challenging is when you have to deal with both noise and sharpening on the same photo. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> dave milbut - 02:08pm Aug 25, 2002 Pacific (#48 of 68) For noise reduction (and addition), I'm really digging the beta of AlienSkin's Image Doctor. I can't wait for the full package to be released. You can get the beta from their site and play around with it. dave <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 03:59am Aug 26, 2002 Pacific (#49 of 68) Thanks Dave. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 11:05am Sep 9, 2002 Pacific (#50 of 68) I found this pretty nifty trick from Russell Browns Tips site. A very nice technique that plays as a QT movie. http://www.russellbrown.com/body.html Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 04:36am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#51 of 68) Hi Tony. I've been busy dealing with computer problems in the middle of trying to keep my work going. I've ordered a new Mac (ducking) so hopefully I will have more time when things start running smoothly again. Thanks for the link. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 04:39am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#52 of 68) Linda, I too am keeping a keen eye on this thread and in fact, have made a PDF out of it since I will have to review it from time to time. Since the work we do involves removing Moire patterns, sharpening is of paramount interest <wink>. Get your new system, have some fun, then... back to work for you! <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:17am Sep 14, 2002 Pacific (#53 of 68) Yes Sir! ) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 03:55am Sep 17, 2002 Pacific (#54 of 68) Again other Sharpening tutorials (not new) at: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/smart_sharp.shtml an High-Pass one: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/high-pass-sharpening.sh tml <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:35am Oct 1, 2002 Pacific (#55 of 68) Thanks Pierre. I'm swamped. I'll be back again. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:39am Nov 28, 2002 Pacific (#58 of 68) Edited: 28-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST Maybe some of you might like to comment on an opposite problem. I've just done a photo correction. That part was easy. Dealing with noise is the hard part. The noise is out of control. I've tried targetting individual channels as well as going into Lab Mode but not getting the best results so far. Here is a <A HREF=http://www.graphicspalmbeach.com/porfolio/burttracyjohn.html><FO NT COLOR=ROYALBLUE>link to the page</A> I posted. You can see the noise in the enlarged eyes portion. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Pierre Courtejoie - 04:16am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#59 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 04:17am PST Lindas, When I hear noise, I think about Mathia's Digital deluxe toolbox... http://www.2morrow.dk/75ppi/coolpix/actions/ there are other non-freeware package for this task... try also the demo from http://www.neatimage.com/ (stand alone program) Hey, who's the guy next to Tracy and John? (on the sharpening side, I found this: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~binaryfx/PSTV_downloads.html while searching for de-noising actions) <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Mathias Vejerslev - 05:39am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#60 of 68) Thanks Pierre. In this case, I think NeatImage is the better choice. De-noise Deluxe is aimed at digital noise, and this seems more like film grain to me. Mathias <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 06:41am Nov 29, 2002 Pacific (#61 of 68) Edited: 29-Nov-2002 at 06:42am PST Pierre: Thank you for the links. << Who's the guy next to Tracy and John? >> You got it! ) Mathias: You're right, it is film grain. I had only a photo to work with. It was scanned on the Epson Expression 1680 at a higher resolution and then sized. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 07:27pm Dec 15, 2002 Pacific (#62 of 68) Edited: 15-Dec-2002 at 07:27pm PST I've done more practice on noise by taking the channels apart, giving each one a major overhaul, then pasting them over the original document's channels. Trouble is, what looks good on screen looks not so wonderful when printed. I really want to improve my own PS techniques rather than use a plug-in. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Lindas Graphics - 10:21am Jan 10, 2003 Pacific (#63 of 68) Edited: 10-Jan-2003 at 10:22am PST I think Mathias' actions are pretty impressive. It's worth posting his LINK again. One day I plan to study each action step in detail. <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> YrbkMgr - 09:44am Jan 11, 2003 Pacific (#64 of 68) I agree with Lindas - Mathias' actions are part of a process that I use daily; although I've tweaked them a bit, his concept in sharpening, edge enhancement, and contrast masking is quite sweet. When I first downloaded his actions, I posted in a thread my thanks to him as once of them was the finishting touch that I needed. It's worth repeating the "Thanks!" Peace, Tony <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> Tenna Sutfin - 09:40am Jan 28, 2003 Pacific (#65 of 68) Can you send me your action for ridding yourself of moire patterns? [email protected] <hr SIZE="1" NOSHADE> End of Archived Thread

Backup method in Noarchive mode

Hi All,
I have one question regarding backup methods. I have my all database in Oracle11gR2 in Noarchive mode. I want to define some backup method but no idea which one is preferable in noarchive mode. Cold backup is again not possible. can I take tablespace/datafile backup ? Is there any other option which I can perform in Noarchive mode or temporarily put the database in Archive and perform the backup?
Please guide me.
Thanks...

user12115 wrote:
Hi All,
First of all thanks for your reply and suggestions. I have not lost the interest but reading and thinking on all your suggestion.
About expdp yes I think this is the only option I was thinking before post a question here. but as we know this is should not consider as a backup.
For Archive mode - this is R&D database and we have disk space issue if we can not put database in Archive mode.
For COld backup - again not possible because single database uses in different time zone so DB should be up and running almost all the time.I think the operative word there is "almost". How big is the database? How long does it take to shut it down, back it up, and bring it back up? Unless the database is really big (why would an r&d database be really big, unless r&d was specific to VLDB) you should be able to do the job during the guy's lunch break. Even for an r&d database, you might be able to justify noarchivelog, but you will really feel the pain if you get a physically corrupted database and all you have is an export.
>
The only one option which I am not aware is what about John speicified. John can you please suggest or forward me some link with some backup example for more details. this is really helpful to me. From your suggested link I understand this is possible but after put the database in suspend mode how do I copy the Tablespace/datafiles - just simple Linux cp command or some other options also?
Edited by: user12115 on Mar 5, 2013 5:08 AM
Edited by: user12115 on Mar 5, 2013 5:15 AM

Backup schedule will not use faster backup method

Hello,
I am currently using Windows Server Backup in Windows Server 2008 R2 to make a copy of our Exchange server. When I initially set the schedule it was configured to use the normal backup method, but after noticing that it was taking an exceedingly long time
I went into the Performance settings and selected the Faster backup option.
The faster method works great if I use the Backup Once option, but for some reason the scheduled backups still try to run the normal, non-incremental backup. I can't find where to change this in the schedule.
**I know that the first time you run the faster backup it needs to make the full backup. It has done this(it takes about 3 days) and every time I have run it since using the Backup Once option it has worked fine(takes about 1 hour). Once again, the issue
is that the schedule will not use the faster option and tries to use the normal backup every time.
Thank you

I am backing up to a network location. When I use the Backup Once option and assign it to use a network location it is able to do the Faster backup. It doesn't make sense that the faster backup works when I do it manually but doesn't work when if it is
initiated by the schedule. They are both going over the network.

CUCM - Supported Backup method

Hi !
What are the VMware backup supported by CUCM and other collaborative applications. In doc-wiki it's mentioned till CUCM 10.0 only .
Any other document which will officially confirm that whether it will support or not ?
Thanks in Advance !!!

Hi,
For UC applications, vm snapshots are not supported and the only supported backup method for CUCM is DRF backup. VM snapshots might lead to performance issues. You could refer below document for more details.
http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/support/docs/voice-unified-communications/unified-communications-manager-callmanager/116459-technote-product-00.html
HTH
Shenbagarajan

A backup method

Hi all,
I need a documented backup method for PeopleSoft 9.0, please it´s urgent, I´ll aprice any help.
Thanks.

Peoplesoft is many components application.
1. database, for the backup strategy, please refer to the database vendor recommandations
2. tools (filesystem), please refer to the host OS vendor recommandations
3. reports, you should have a backup policy retention for the produced reports
You should build your own backup strategy, as discussed in your duplicate thread :
Backup & recovery Peoplesoft
Nicolas.

Recommendations for OneDrive Backup Methods

So my company just switched over to Office365, and so far things are pretty good. I'm looking to utilize the OneDrive features as a replacement for our individual user drives, currently housed on our server. My issue is this:
1. Microsoft doesn't recommend using OneDrive as a backup method, therefore I will need to back these drives separately from OneDrive.
2. According to Microsoft's site, it's not supported or recommended to change the location of OneDrive, so it's forever on the local drive of the user's computer.
With these issues taken in to account. How am I supposed to backup OneDrive if every drive is on that individual user's computer? It's an administrative nightmare to manually point everything to a server location for easier backup access since users have
different schedules and some will shut their computers down at night (when a backup would take place) while others don't.
So, for anyone who has done this already, how do you manage the backups?
Thanks!

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I deleted my favorite playlist accidentally, the backup method doesn't work

i accidentally deleted my favorite playlist, and i was unable to restore my library because lack of disk space, but i do have the playlist on my ipod touch, is there a way to sync my playlist from my ipod to itunes? or is there another way to get it back? thanks.

Aw, too bad an older libary didn't have it.
OK, this next method works on my older click-wheel ipod. I'm not sure it works on iTouch or iPhone, since I don't have one of those models to try it on, like I did with my click wheel.
On my ipod, I went to the playlist I chose, and held the center wheel until the playlist title blinked at me.
This put it in the "On The Go"playlist, and next time I synced my ipod, that entire playlist went back into itunes. It's name in iTunes was "On The Go 1", which I could easily change if I wanted.
The directions for iTouch don't say if you can do that with an entire playlist - it only mentions songs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/how-to/index.html#ipod.making-on-the-go-playlists
These are the click-wheel directions
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA27763
Otherwise, I think you are stuck with buying a 3rd-party ipod manager that will reverse-sync playlists. There is a chart here that has checkmarks for iphone and whether the software can save playlists.
http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/articles/comments/copying-music-from-ipod-to-co mputer/P2
Good luck!

Backup methods and external hard drive questions

I usually copy files and photos to DVDs but wonder if that's enough and the most efficient method to back up. So I purchased a Seagate 1TB external hard drive. Here are my questions:
- What is the best way to copy all my data to this hard drive?
- Is it necessary to copy everything?
- Is it possible to partition the external hard drive?
- Is it possible to use this hard drive to copy data from more than one computer, for instance, my powerbook and a PC laptop? If so, how?
Any information on this would be so appreciated!

Here are some suggestions for backup:
Backup Software Recommendations
Carbon Copy Cloner
Data Backup
Deja Vu
Silver Keeper
SuperDuper!
Synchronize Pro! X
Synk Pro
Synk Standard
Tri-Backup
Others may be found at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files.
You can partition the drive if you need to, but that will depend upon why you would need to partition the drive.
Personally, I would clone your startup volume to the external drive. You can do this with any of the referenced software as well as by using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can then incrementally update the clone using a backup utility.
It would be possible to backup more than one computer in which case you would need to partition the drive. Backing up a Windows machine, however, would require partitioning the drive using MBR and formatting it FAT32 (MSDOS).
For clarification do you really have a PowerBook (PPC machine) or a MacBook (Intel?)

External Backup Method - Alternate procedure

I normally do a backup of my Macintosh HD partition to an external drive using SD (all files to an image on external drive) and also do a backup of BOOTCAMP when within Win 7 x64 using Acronis True Image (again using all files option to a single file image).
Naturally both procedures above are executed using 'file by file' backup which is quicker than sector by sector backup. I have a 1TB WD Scorpio Blue stuffed in the Macbook Pro with apprx 700GB partitioned for Mac OS 10.6.5 and the remaining 300GB allocated to BOOTCAMP, the external backup drive is also 1TB with equally matched sized partitions
I would prefer to change my backup/copy method to just copy the 'entire disk' within the Macbook pro and mirror that to the external disk of the same size, a snap-shot mirror in one foul swoop with no messing about between two different OS's as stated above.
What would be the best procedure for this?
Would it involve booting externally from my OS X SL DVD disk and then running a disk copy within the utility? Best practice suggestions appreciated.

I have indeed had three drives with hardware failure already and another three or more instances where the data and/or structure of the data on the drive, i.e. B-Tree file index structure on a drive, had become corrupted and in some cases could not be repaired by any utility software as it was beyond fixing. First drive hardware failure was a desktop Lacie d2 but luckily it was just one of the connection interfaces that failed (firewire 800), fortunately it had a triple interface and I was able to salvage the data through the USB-2 interface only, this was probably a good thing as the drive was excessively noisy anyway and therefore may not have lasted much longer. Second drive to have hardware problems was a portable WD MyPassport Essential 1TB, for some reason this produced a fault when only a few months old and was not recognised by the OS, however bizarrely if I turned the unit upside down and laying it flat (as these drives are not the standing-up type being portable) and then plugging it back into the Mac, it would then work! Because of this I then got a portable Seagate GoFlex 1TB ultra portable in order to transfer the data from the upside-down WD MyPassport Essential and then take that back to the store, however this turned out to be the worst mistake because the Seagate GoFlex 1TB Ultra portable completely and entirely failed after only a mere 4 weeks of careful use,it would not appear at all on the desktop and no software could help it with some reporting a hardware failure code. It's worth pointing out that a desktop Western Digital MyBook Studio 1TB drive that I've had for some time now has been fine, I've had the MyBook Studio before and during the problems encountered with the two small mobile drives I'v had mentioned above and the MyBook Studio continues to perform well (even with the taxing task imposed by Super Duper when using the convert image to Read-Only mode for backing up all files - you can usually hear the drive become very noisy with the read-write head going ballistic as it converts & compares)
From the responses to this post I can see there's quite a lot to bare in mind when doing a sector by sector backup, such as replicating file-system errors or damaged data from any bad blocks, non defragmentation. I usually do a verify/repair & permissions repair first, as well as to clean up the system with utility software that runs the Mac daily/weekly & monthly housekeeping scripts in one go, the clearing of logs, resetting and emptying of all browsers and by then some automated background utility has completed it's full disk scan in the background for any bad blocks. To be honest I'm looking forward to the day I can affordably buy a decent 1TB SSD to eliminate the mechanical wear & tear factor with improvements increasing with the performances, wear levelling management, MTBF (mean time before failure - usually 2 million hours/228 years, for decent ones), transfer rates and power saving gains. OWC sell what appears to be a very decently specified 480GB SSD and soon they may have a 1TB version with lower future pricing per GB. Must point out though that Pure Silicon have had a One terabyte 1TB SSD SATA 2.5" 9.5mm MLC (multi layer cell type) drive for 2 years now since January 2009 when it was announced and the even more vastly superior SLC (single layer cell type) at an unheard of 500GB two years ago, but these are for military applications as well as medical, government and specialist enterprise server applications.. so they wont sell you one, but consumer companies are catching up.
http://www.puresi.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id= 4&Itemid=9
Anyway, I've been going off subject a little myself here so in light of the different methods available, I think what I'm kinda looking for was a method of just backing up the whole drive in one go without having to do so from within the two separate OS's installed. Also this would be useful if or when I eventually get a 1TB SSD and therefore transfer the Mac OS partition and Bootcamp Windows partition straight over without upsetting them in case there would be problems using other methods. It's obviously not that straight forward doing sector backups, so I will have to experiment when I get another drive. Also being put-off with the failures I've had from previous external drives I'm therefore considering the RAID 1 disk mirroring route for my next external drive (cost permitting though).

Backup method for Application Servers in 11i

Hi :
EBS version: 11.5.10.CU2 - Linux 86
I am planning to do an upgrade on the production system and wanted to take a complete backup of the EBS Environment. In the past I have always done a online backup of the application servers. I was wondering if there is any drawback in doing this. Can any one confirm if this is the correct method and if not why a cold backup is preferred?
Regards,
Bala

I was wondering if there is any drawback in doing thisAs long as the backup is taken successfully and you are able to test this backup with no issues then you should be OK.
Can any one confirm if this is the correct method and if not why a cold backup is preferred?Cold backup is preferred because is more consistent. If you can afford downtime go with the cold backup, otherwise the online backup is your only option (make sure you test the backup and have a good backup/restore strategy).
Thanks,
Hussein

Best backup method in sap maxdb

Hi to all,
I would like to know what is best backup and restore method in maxdb so that we can restore the data successfully.
actually i know the process of doing backup with dbmcli commands. Suggest me best method of doing backup in Maxdb in linux operatiing system.
Thanks
Srikanth

Hi Dear,
solution of your query is following link.:
http://www.sapdb.org/7.4/pdf/backrec_eng.pdf
Regards,
majamil

Backup method in OLTP environment

Which one of backup strategy would be best for 24/7 OLTP 9i/10g databases with no standby servers on unix clustered machines? Suggestions/comments?

Hi..
Which one of backup strategy would be best for 24/7 OLTP 9i/10g databases with no standby servers on unix clustered machines? Suggestions/comments?
RMAN backup is the easiest and the best method of taking the backup.Some additional features of RMAN are in 10g compared to 9i like for example, you can make the backup pieces compressed, you can use catalog backuppieces in 10g
for reference
10g RMAN -- [http://download.oracle.com/docs/cd/B19306_01/backup.102/b14191/part1.htm#i996723]
9i rman -- [http://download.oracle.com/docs/cd/B10501_01/server.920/a96566/preface.htm#972108]
HTH
Anand

Dial Backup method to use on an 1811 ISR

I am confused as to the methods available to implement Dial Backup on an 1811 ISR.
My router's WAN is connected to a cable modem via FA0.
In reading the 1811 software configuration guide (chapter 13, page 13-5), I have viewed a table listing "Dial Backup Feature Limitations".
I do not know how to interpret this table.
Is it telling me that Dial Backup on an 1811 is not possible using my "Normal IP cable modem senario"?
Any insight into this issue is gratefully appreciated.
regards

Before delving into technicalities.
Where would you dial backup to ?
Do you have the needed experience or certification to configure Cisco routers ?

Favorite backup methods?

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