FCPX: Still Images and Color Effects

What I am doing is not working so clearly I am doing it incorrectly . . .
I have some still images and want to change the color to night-time "over time". I thought I could use keyframes to do it but when I do that, it changes the color of the entire image instantly. It is not a gradual change. Maybe I am setting the keyframe in the wrong place, I am not sure. Anyway here is how I am settin the keyframs and also the panel I am working in to do the color adjustment. It seems the keyframes are being set in the "Transform All" section and I want them in the color section but can't get them in there. Can someone please tell me how to do this correctly?

Tom, I have a question. I can split the clip -no problem; however, when I add the first color correction (going from day to night color), it is going to apply the color change instantly with no gradual fade to night. In the second clip, I can do another color correction going from night back to day but, again, it will be applied instantly. I think I might be misunderstanding your method. Can you explain, please.
Or are you saying that one clip would be day and one would be night, and the cross-dissolve would blend the two?

Similar Messages

Help! Ideas for displaying ~100-300 still images with After Effects / Premiere Pro

Hi, I am a cadet at a US Air Force detachment and am responsible for making this semester's end of the year video.
I have the Adobe creative cloud and am familiar with the basics of Photoshop, and Premiere Pro, and I am trying to also learn After Effects. I have a large amount of picture and video, and am at a loss for how to quickly make all these pictures into an interesting slideshow. Software such as Cyberlink Powerdirector had a "photo grid" which would allow me to create an automatic slideshow of images on a 3x3 grid, where each image flashed into place one at a time. I am looking for automated processes or tutorials to feed my images into and have a modern effect of displaying the images.
If anyone has any idea for a template or where to start on handling a large amount of still images in After Effects or Premiere Pro, I could definitely use a point in the right direction!
Exactly what I want can be found at 5:27 of this video: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150247563700519&set=vb.120583801339638&type=2&theat er

read below
-http://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/kb/error---preludevideo-play-modules.html
-http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1001579
-Use BIOS http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1019004?tstart=0
-link to why http://forums.adobe.com/message/4685328
-http://www.anandtech.com/show/4839/mobile-gpu-faceoff-amd-dynamic-switchable-graphics-vs-n vidia-optimus-technology/2

Grainy Still Images and Titles

I've just completed about a 10 minute film utilizing still images and video clips. It was made with the Adobe Premiere Elements 3 that came with my Sanyo Xacti camera, running on Windows XP. The video looks great all the way up until the end. I have two still images that I use that I have overlayed titles on them. The first one is a rolling title from bottom to top (like movie credits) and the second one is a still image where the text just appears and then disappears. The problem is that the pictures are extremely grainy and pixilated. Other still images that I use in the movie do not look that way, and they were taken with the same settings as the pixilated ones. When I pause the movie the picture looks normal, but when I hit PLAY it goes back to being grainy. I can only assume that the word overlays have something to do with it.
Has anyone else experienced this problem and is there any way to make the background pictures sharper and crisper with the text overlaying it?
Thank you.

Guys, thank you so much for the help so far. I really appreciate it.
Steve - The line above the stills is green. I have rendered the film and it looks fine in the view window except for the pictures in question.
Hunt - I exported the movie to a Windows media player file and played it on that. The results for those two pictures was the same.
I imported the images through the PE "Get Media From" tab. They were on a thumbdrive that I had imported the to from my camera.
They are both JPEG images. The first is 2816 pixels in width and 2112 pixels in height. With a vertical and horizontal resolution of 72 dpi and a bit depth of 24. The focal length was 6mm.
The second is 2112 pixels in width and 2816 in height. The rest of the info is the same.
The pictures look fine when it is paused, it is only when it is playing that they are grainy and unfocused.
Thanks for the help. I am continuing to work through the Help topics in search of an answer.
I'm making this as a gift for my girlfriend back in the states while I am deployed here in Iraq and I am trying to make it perfect. Thanks again for all of your help.

HOW DO I RENDER A STILL IMAGE AND KEEP QUALITY

I'm still in search of help with why High Res. still pictures lose quality when I render. The images are at 300dpi, roughly 1900x1200 (they vary in size). I input them fine. Then, when I go to put them on the timeline - I get a pop-up window asking me to "AutoFix" this clip? When I say "yes" it drops down the quality and it becomes grainy. If I say "no" the clip remains looking the same - great.
But - then when I go to "render" that clip, in the timeline - it drops down in quality and becomes grainy - AFTER I render it.
HOW DO I USE STILL IMAGES - AND KEEP THEM HIGH QUALITY WHEN I RENDER?
My Project Settings are; 1920/1080 --- 30fps DROP frame (should it be Non-Drop?) -- Capture is HDV and Video Rendering is only marked at "Optimize Stills"
I'm using Adobe Premiere Elements 11 on a Windows 8 PC
Any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks

joeyMPI
OK. Let us give this a try. If I go off course anywhere along the line, please let me know.
1. Open Premiere Elements 11 on Windows 8 64 bit to the Expert workspace.
A. Under Edit Menu/Preferences/General
Remove the check mark next to "Show all do not show again messages."
Set the "Timeline render quality (valid for HD projects)" = "High quality, Slow speed"
Leave a check mark next to Default Scale to Frame Size.
B. Right Click the Edit area monitor, select Magnification and make sure it is = "Fit".
C. Right Click the Edit area monitor, select Playback Quality and make sure it is = "Highest".
D. Setting the Project Preset Manually to Get the Sharpest End Product Photo Display
Go to File Menu/New/Project and Change Settings
In Change Settings, change the project preset to
NTSC
DSLR
1080p
DSLR [email protected]
Close out of there.
In the new project dialog that appears, make sure that you have a check mark next to
"Force Select Project Setting on this Project". Close out of there.
E. The project preset that has been selected has a 16:9 aspect ratio, and it will direct the program to set
up a 16:9 space in the Edit area monitor for editing. So, best results are expected with photos with a 16:9 aspect ratio.
If an imported photo does not fill the Edit area monitor space, you can try to scale it (zoom in) just to the point of
getting rid of any black borders. A quick scale can be done by clicking on the monitor screen, and dragging on a handle
of the photo's bounding box which has appeared.
But, now for the moment of truth..
a. You should not have seen any helpful Fix messages.
b. If you render the Timeline content by clicking on the render button above the Timeline
what you see should look the same or better before and after the render.
Also keep in mind, that having to scale up too much can create pixelation.
300ppi or dpi has no significance in video. Pixel dimensions are the focus. And here, video is 4:3 or 16:9 aspect ratio. In
this specific case 16:9. It would be a good idea to plan ahead on the sizing of the photos beforehand. As far as I know the perk of enhanced
sharpness in the end product is associated with just the one project preset that I pointed to in the workflow.
But, right now, our target is on the maintaining the quality of the photos in the Edit area. And, I realize that you realize
that no matter how great the resolution of the imports, the imports will be reduced to the sizing characteristic of the export
preset.
We will be watching for your results. Thank you for considering the suggestions.
ATR

Exporting still image - not all effects appearing

I have created an image in Photoshop but wanted to get the shadow/lighting/depth effects from After Effects. So I imported the layers, got it all set up with lighting/different depths/shadows/etc. So now I'm going to render out a single frame so I now have a TIFF/photoshop/JPEG. I go through the steps: COMPOSITION>SAVE AS.... I get the file and every time I open up the flat file in photoshop, the shadows that were great in After Effects have now become flat black shapes.
So I lose the effects I created in After Effects....... does anyone know how to keep these when I render it out for a still image?

Sorry! This is my first time using this form so had no idea.
Here is a screenshot of the issue:
LEFT - how it looks in AE
RIGHT - how it looks in PS
I have tried all different kinds of settings and rendering a still frame in Photoshop Sequence, TIFF Sequence, JPEG Sequence. The shadows just aren't appearing the same. It kept the correct light source on each of the items but the shadows just appear solid instead of blended.
COMPUTER
Toshiba Qosmio X505
Intel(R) Core(TM) i7CPU Q 740 @ 1.73 GHz
64-bit Oporating System
Windows 7
PROGRAMS
Adobe Photoshop CC Version: 2014.2.2 20141204.r.310 CL 994532 x64
Operating System: Windows 7 64-bit
Adobe After Effects CC 2014.2 Release Version: 13.2.0.49
Now sure what other information need to help out.

Jpeg images and color gamuts

When I make a jpeg image in my camera, it is assigned the adobe rgb gamut.
What happens when it is imported in LR? Does the gamut change to prophoto automatically?
When I print the jpeg do I have to specify the color gamut? If it isn't prophoto rgb, there is no place to specify the gamut?
Can anyone explain?
Andy

Yes it is. You might want to read up in the manual about still importing and also about audio sampling rates.

Morphing a still image to video effect

I have shot footage of my wife holding a white a4 card while talking to camera
I have zoomed in on the card to fill the screen as she finishes her talk, I want the card to have a still photo on it (created in FCP as a freeze frame), then as we zoom and then hold for 1 second the still frame changes to video of the same still, seen this effect in the TV series "Criminal Minds", im sure they use a tracking piece of software to do this, but is this acheiveable in FCP or even Motion to look realistic? I shot the card straight on, would prefer to do it at an angle plane but this may be even more difficult!
Any suggestions?

Hey Allister
I can't see why you would need any motion capture software - what I understand your trying to do from your post, should be perfectly achievable using just the motion keyframes in FCP. This would be how i would try and do the effect your describing -
1. Find the frame that wished to use as the mock photo on the piece of card. Create a freeze frame and export it as a still image PNG file. If your working in an interlaced format, then take it into photoshop and use the deinterlace filter on the footage to get rid off any jagged edged that should be smooth.
Filter > Video > De-Interlace
And resave it.
2. Import this photo image into the same sequence as your wife holding the piece of card. Drag this image onto the timeline above the clip of your wife holding the card. Now resize the image using the motion controls to fit the piece of card. Add a keyframe here to your "size" value and your "center" value, and any other value you have adjusted to make the still fit the card.
3. Now navigate to the frame of the zoom, in the clip of your wife holding the card where the card fills the screen. Adjust your still PNG photo image to fill the screen also - you should be able to do this easily by just setting all the motion values to their default setting e.g size 100%, center 0,0.
4. Now go back to through the footage zooming in on your wife. Play it through - and each time you see a frame where the photo image is in the incorrect position i.e not fitting the card, then simply adjust it so that it fits.
Hopefully a combination of the final cut tweening and a little perseverence on your part should get the photo to keep in position all the way through the camera zoom.
5. Now at the frame where the photo image fills the frame - cut to the actual moving footage from which you took the still. Make sure you cut to 1 frame AFTER where you took the freeze frame. Otherwise there will be an unnatural pause as you will be essentially playing the same frame twice.
Now you could also use the speed ramping tools in FCP to come up from a still image to slow motion to full speed video if you want a smoother transition than just going from a still to moving footage.
Hope this was of some help. Knowing me its probably clear as mud. If you want any clarification on any points just post back here.
All the best
JB

Crash with still images and keyframes?

Has anyone experienced a HARD crash on Premiere Pro CS6 (v6.0.2) mac when working with still images on the timeline & adding keyframes to add slight movement to those images?
without adding keyframes, the images seem to sit happily in my sequence but as soon as I add keyframes, it crashes so hard I can't switch to another application, force quit, or anything except a hard restart.
Premiere has been pretty damn solid for me since the latest update and since I went to 16GB RAM so this is surprising and frustrating.
any advice will be appreciated.
I'm on
OS X 10.8.2
MBP 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7
16GB RAM
graphics: AMD Radeon HD 6750M 1024MB
thanks
\d

Photo Scaling for Video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798
-Too Large May = Crash http://forums.adobe.com/thread/879967
-And another crash report http://forums.adobe.com/thread/973935

Background images and color

What instance would background image and background colors
not show in a browser? (All other images are fine)

Cosmic rays.
Murray --- ICQ 71997575
Adobe Community Expert
(If you *MUST* email me, don't LAUGH when you do so!)
==================
http://www.projectseven.com/go
- DW FAQs, Tutorials & Resources
http://www.dwfaq.com - DW FAQs,
Tutorials & Resources
==================
"Murray *ACE*" <[email protected]> wrote
in message
news:gbu845$7gd$[email protected]..
>A color specification without the required octothorpe
>
> --
> Murray --- ICQ 71997575
> Adobe Community Expert
> (If you *MUST* email me, don't LAUGH when you do so!)
> ==================
>
http://www.projectseven.com/go
- DW FAQs, Tutorials & Resources
>
http://www.dwfaq.com - DW FAQs,
Tutorials & Resources
> ==================
>
>
> "TC2112" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:gbu7sb$782$[email protected]..
>> Hello,
>>
>> Some examples would be incorrect CSS, an incorrect
link to a CSS
>> stylesheet, another element with a background color
"on top" of the
>> background blocking it, an incorrect path to the
image....
>>
>> The answer is in the code.
>> Do you have a link you could post?
>>
>> Take care,
>> Tim
>>
>> "TaraLeigh" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
>> news:gbu7bj$6hs$[email protected]..
>>> What instance would background image and
background colors not show in a
>>> browser? (All other images are fine)
>>
>>
>

Question on scanned images and coloring in Photoshop

I have some sketches from my drawing class that I would like to scan and color in Photoshop. I scan the sketch
but I can't add color. I've tried 'lassoing' a portion of the drawing
but the paint bucket still won't add color.
What am I doing wrong? Please help.
thanks.

The Paint Bucket tool may be the wrong tool, or at least you may have its Threshold set to a low value, as it replaces pixels only of a similar color to the one you click on.
It may be more direct to just select the Brush tool and set up a large brush to paint solid color in the region you selected.
If you want to get into more advanced functionality, which will allow you to correct mistakes or continue to adjust your colorizing for example, perhaps you will want to create a new layer and paint on that layer. Without knowing your goals it's hard to advise further, but you might also want to learn more about Layer blending mode "Color" vs. "Normal".
-Noel

AS3 images and colors

I need some help with AS3. I got my color pickers working to change the image and background color. So everything is working like i want it for one image. I have about 10 images i need to be able to choose from. I want to be able to select an image from a drop down or something and that image replaces the image in the box. any help is much appriciated.

not sure what i'm doing with the loader, i went throught the tutorial and got it to work in the tutorial, but i don't know how i would incorporate that function to work with my script. i appriciate all your help.
here is my script on the (turtle image layer).
// theimage is a display object on the Stage.
// blueBtn, redBtn, greenBtn, and blackBtn are buttons on the Stage.
import flash.events.MouseEvent;
import flash.geom.ColorTransform;
// Get access to the ColorTransform instance associated with theimage.
var colorInfo:ColorTransform = theimage.transform.colorTransform;
// This function is called when blueBtn is clicked.
function makeBlue(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x003399;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
blueBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeBlue);
blueBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeBlue);
// This function is called when redBtn is clicked.
function makeRed(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0xFF0000;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
redBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeRed);
redBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeRed);
// This function is called when greenBtn is clicked.
function makeGreen(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x00CC00;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
greenBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeGreen);
greenBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeGreen);
// This function is called when blackBtn is clicked.
function makeBlack(event:MouseEvent):void
    // Set the color of the ColorTransform object.
    colorInfo.color = 0x000000;
    // apply the change to the display object
    theimage.transform.colorTransform = colorInfo;
blackBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.CLICK, makeBlack);
blackBtn.addEventListener(MouseEvent.MOUSE_OVER, makeBlack);

How to mix time lapse with still images and imported movies ?

Hello
I have been shooting photos (time lapse with Camera Pro) and movies with a Nokia N8 and would love to use iMovie to mount all that.
Unfortunately, for the time lapse I cannot get the duration of the photos to 0.03s, it just won't accept it. I have been looking around the forum and could only find sort of solutions when you have a transition or effect on the pictures but not when they are just fit to the screen...
So now the time lapse looks much slower and broken than the movie itself... and it does not look nice.
Another way would be to make the time lapse with QT Pro and then import it but I am affraid I am loosing quality in the process.
Anybody knows how to fix this duration problem ?
Thank you in advance for any helpful answer.
Petri
Mac OS 10.6.8
iMovie : 9.0.4

Able, Jim,
thanks a lot, both solutions work just fine.
Take the first image, adjust the Effects, copy it, select the other images and past attributes
and
just put all images together, make a new sequence and use that first sequence as nested sequence and put the effects on that

FCE Exporting Still Image and Maintaining a 16:9 Aspect Ratio

I am putting the finishing touches to the first movie that I have created in FCE. I'm a refugee from imovie 08.
I would like to create an ending where I run my End Title and scrolling captions over a still from the movie that I've just created.
My movie is captured in 16:9 aspect ratio.
The problem is that when I export using Quicktime conversion, and the import the still back into FCE, the still loses it's 16:9 aspect ratio.
Can someone tell me how I can some how paste a still image from my movie with a long duration of say 90 seconds while my ending titles scroll through? AND keep my 16:9 aspect ratio.
Hope you folks understand my question OK? Can anyone help me?
Thanks,
Steve

That seemed to work great.. thanks Tom.
My first movie in FCE is now finished and it looks good within FCE!!!
Now I have exporting problems!
I have added chapter markers to my movie however:
If I export using the File > Export > Quicktime Movie option I keep my Chapter markers perfectly but no mention is made of 16:9 aspect ration.
However if I use the File > Export > Using Quicktime Conversion option I have lots of settings where I can play around with the aspect ratio but it does not give me any mention of chapter markers and I do in fact lose them after the conversion.
By the way I'm selecting the DVCPRO50 when I try this.
Have you any ideas how I can export, keep my 16:9 aspect ration AND keep my chapter markers?
I'm importing into idvd-08
Many Thanks!
Steve.

Capture still image and video from s-video

Is it possible to capture image and video from capture card
(s-video)?

Hi,
No, AIR has no direct support for video capture. But it can
access the webcam.

Optimizing images and color problems in Catalyst

I really need your guy's help.
First of all, I am trying to figure out the best way to optimize images. I have a bunch of logos that are pdfs/ai files that I want to make thumbnails and full size images for a part of my portfolio site. No matter what I do the logos get choppy. Whether creating jpegs in illustrator, rasterizing the images, etc. Any ideas?
Also, every time I bring an AI file into catalyst blacks/grays seem to be different. Anywhere I use any kind of low opacity or something things are screwed up. Faded whites in illustrator are bright white in catalysy. Low opacity whites (grays) are brown. WAY off. Any ideas there?
This is driving me crazy and I have a deadline for this coming up very soon. I feel like I have gotten nowhere after hours and hours of this
Thanks!

Hi there,
Here's a collection of material that should help:
FAQ: How do I optimize Illustrator graphics for best performance in Flash Catalyst?
Here are a few specific snippets from that collection that apply to your specific situation:
-To reduce color differences when comparing colors in Catalyst and Illustrator/Photoshop, set Proof Colors to "Monitor RGB" (In Illustrator, go to View> Proof Setup and choose Monitor RGB). (From Ian Giblin's slide deck, pg. 19)
-When creating documents in Illustrator that will be imported into Catalyst, set the document color space to RGB. There is a new document profile for Flash Catalyst built into Illustrator (select it from the New Document menu in Illustrator's new document dialog box). This does other helpful things like turning on "Align to Pixel Grid, and setting your document size to the commonly-used 800 x 600 pixels.)
-Regarding the choppy logos, try using the "Optimize vector graphics" command in Catalyst (select your logo on the artboard, and in the Heads-Up-Display, choose Optimize artwork and then Optimize vector graphics. This feature is made for optimizing vector art for good performance, while still maintaining the ability to edit the vectors later if needed. You can also convert the logos to raster images right inside of Catalyst, by choosing "Rasterize" instead of Optimize vector graphics. More details are in this great FlashCats blog post.

FCPX: Still Images and Color Effects

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