Fed up with BT already, speed and usage.

I've been with BT from the 1st of April, what a disaster.
Many issues with slow speed, emailed support a few time and had a couple of phone calls back "We're looking into it, will call back withing 48 hours" they never do.
My speed has varied from 350kbps on a good day to 87kbps on a bad day.
Now to add insult to injury I have just had a warning I'm near my 10Gig limit for May, and it's only the 9th !
According to their "monitor" I've reached 8Gig in 9 days, (Which is unbelievable), thats almost 1Gig usage a day, for me thats 8 hours downloading a day.
I was told when signing up (By phone) there would be no reason why my connection speed should'nt be 1Mbps, I even got him to check it twice, but I guess they'll tell you anything to get you to sign up. (Stupid me).
It now looks like I'm going to get charged an extra £5 every month for my pathetic normal usage untill they make me go on a higher tariff and pay extra for my crummy slow connection and very "average" web browsing.
I'm now stuck in a 18 month contract with BT and no way out of it.

imjolly wrote:
due to your distance from the exchange your max speed is 1/1.2mb see here 
http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl/max_speed_calc.php
your line has some noise and you could try connecting to the master/test and checking to see if your speed increases with the iplate.  if you are slightly hard of hearing maybe you could get someone else to do the quiet line test just to make sure it is quiet.  with your connection any noise will have a bad affect on your broadband.
I agree in that I find hard to believe with that connection you can download 1gb a day
I got my wife to do it the quiet line test.
And how can I dispute my usage with BT, support is hopeless, they are just going to charge me whatever, and make me go on a higher package.
And I'm going to get charged more for this totally crummy service.
I'm regretting the day I returned to BT, and if I could would give them the boot.
Lesson learned, roll on 18 months.

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    If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
    We are sorry that we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)
    If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

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    Hi SadGamerGeek,
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    BTCare Community Mod
    If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
    We are sorry that we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)
    If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

  • Anyone else fed up with the 14 day Policy, I am.  Lets do something about it.

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    The final word on any update is that there isn’t one anyone can talk about or knows about, but it seems that all the techs at Verizon have the same problem with their droids; they activate the Airplane mode, then deactivate it and the 4G will come back.  That’s all dandy unless when you get disconnected from the internet it closes out important things you were in the process of doing…isn’t that special.  Very lame Verizon, very lame.
    I’ve done a lot of research on Version’s Androids and it appears that ALL of them since they’ve been out have this same problem with the flipping from 4 to 3G and other connectivity issues…so it’s not a MOTO thing unless MOTO has built a problem product…it’s Verizon’s towers or signals etc.  No one has figured it out and neither has Verizon or we wouldn’t have these issues.  
    And the "jargon" I get from Verizon that MOTO is being very “secretive” about the update is laughable...the real reason I believe they say this is because there isn’t one.  Every other company out there in the tech world that knows what the problems are let people know that they are going to release an update and the issues they are working to fix…the “it’s a secret” is a sly way of putting us off because they don’t have any freakin idea what the problem is and how to fix it. 
    I will say that WHEN this Bionic works like it is supposed to, it is awesome.  My biggest issue with this company is there deceitfulness and not telling us the true story up front and their lame 14 day limit...but I understand why that was put in place, their equipment only works for 14 days then takes a dump.  So I doubt they will ever change it back unless they grow a pair and start selling good equipment that works out of the box.
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    Enjoy the phone, when it works, but expect significant problems that WILL happen regularly (flipping back and forth from 4-3G, disconnects from the internet when you get notifications or when it flips from 4 to 3G, battery not charging when you are connected to your computer, etc.), returning the phone will not fix the problem because the problem is not known to Verizon or MOTO.  The techs will tell you do disconnect the battery, the SIM Card, get a new SIM card, restart and/or do a hard factory reset.  None of this works.
    And if you don’t want to get locked into another 2 year contact, understand that your 14 day count down starts the day they send the phone to you, not the day you activate it, so that means that you really only have 12 days to try it out before you return it the post mark on the fed ex return package cannot be one day past the 14th day or you will be on the hook.  And don’t forget to also return the accessories to store before the 14 day marked on the receipt about 12 inches from the top (it is not in bold so look very close at the date at the top also) if you buy them at a Verizon store.
    If you replace the SIM card, as I did, don’t let some rep that isn’t paying attention to your file notes tell you that your 14 day count down is later than sooner, they (the reps) get confused or whatever they do, but they look at SIM card activation and not when the phone was sent to you or for that matter when you activated it.
    I’ve been under a lot of “miscommunicated” information from the start with my first 14 day 3G bionic so although I’ve done a lot of ranting here, I hope my information helps others not get stuck or at least you will go into this with eyes VERY WIDE OPEN.  
    It has been 2 years since I looked into any new phone and I was not aware of all the NEW scams, trickery and deceptions Verizon has taught their reps and supervisors to use on us, but it makes sense, their equipment is so faulty they had to figure out how to keep the money coming in.  
    DO NOT TRUST VERIZON to be helpful, they are there ONLY to lock you into contacts and stick you with equipment that they and their manufacturer cannot and do not know how to fix. 

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    Volume Header needs minor repair
    The volume Macintosh HD needs to be repaired.
    Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit
    1 HFS volume checked
    Volume needs repair
    Here is a screenshot of Disk Utility: http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/DjViral/Picture1.png
    So obviously something is wrong because it reported failure on exit and Disk Utility will not even let me click on "Repair Disk", it is just faded out, un-click-able.
    I would like to know what is wrong, and why Apple is releasing such **** as Security Updates. I mean isn't the whole point of a security update to make your computer more secure. Is this a joke or something?
    I have lost all respect for you Apple. Not too mention this happened only 2 months ago with your last security update and i had to get my computer serviced which took 3 weeks. You better explain yourselves, apologize and start getting your sorry act together.

    when prompted to restart did so, only to wait 5 minutes with my computer just idling and not restarting. So I then went to the apple menu to restart but still nothing happened. Pushed the Power button on my Mac
    You should not have done that, it is a process that should never be interrupted.
    For next time:
    There are no guarantees, but following this procedure when installing updates and upgrades on your Mac will go a long way towards avoiding unpleasant after effects and ‘post-update stress disorder’.
    It is also worth noting that it is an extreme rarity for updates to cause upsets to your system, but they may well reveal pre-existing ones, particularly those of which you may have been unaware. If you are actually aware of any glitches, make sure they are fixed before proceeding further.
    So before you do anything else:
    If you can, make a full backup first.
    Turn off sleep mode for both screen and hard disk.
    Disconnect all peripherals except your keyboard and mouse.
    1. Repair Permissions (in Disk Utility)
    2. Verify the state of your hard disk using Disk Utility. If any faults are reported, restart from your install disk (holding down the C key), go to Disk Utility, and repair your startup disk. Restart again to get back to your startup disk.
    At least you can now be reasonably certain that your system does not contain any obvious faults that might cause an update/upgrade to fail.
    3. Download the correct version of the COMBO update from the Apple download site. If your car runs on gasoline you would not want to fill the tank with diesel, so don’t try to install the PPC updater on an Intel Mac!
    If you prefer to download updates via Software Update in the Apple menu (which would ensure that the correct version for your Mac was being downloaded), it is not recommended to allow SU to install major (or even minor) updates automatically. Set Software Update to just download the updater without immediately installing it. There is always the possibility that the combined download and install (which can be a lengthy process) might be interrupted by a power outage or your cat walking across the keyboard, and an interrupted install will almost certainly cause havoc. Once it is downloaded, you can install at a time that suits you. You should make a backup copy of the updater on a CD in case you ever need a reinstall.
    Using the Combo updater ensures that all system files changed since the original 10.4.0 are included, and any that may have been missed out or subsequently damaged will be repaired. The Delta updater, although a temptingly smaller download, only takes you from the previous version to the new one, i.e. for example from 10.4.9 to 10.4.10. Software Update will generally download the Delta updater only. The preferable Combo updater needs to be downloaded from Apple's download site.
    Now proceed as follows:
    4. Close all applications.
    5. Unplug all peripherals except your keyboard and mouse.
    6. Install the update/upgrade. Do not under any circumstances interrupt this procedure. Do not do anything else on your computer while it is installing. Be patient.
    7. When it ask for a restart to complete the installation, click restart. This can take longer than normal, there are probably thousands of files to overwrite and place in the correct location. Do nothing while this is going on.
    8. Once your Mac is awake, repair permissions again, and you should be good to go!
    If your Mac seems slightly sluggish or ‘different’, perform a second restart. It can’t hurt and is sometimes efficacious!
    9. Open a few of your most used applications and check that all is OK. In this connection please remember that not all manufacturers of third party applications and plug-ins, add-ons, haxies etc, will have had time to do any necessary rewrites to their software to make them 10.4.10. compliant. Give them a weeks or two while you regularly check their websites for updates. This applies particularly to plug-ins for Safari 3.
    N.B. Do not attempt to install two different updates at the same time as each may have different routines and requirements. Follow the above recommendations for each update in turn.
    Lastly, Apple's own article on the subject of Software Update may also be useful reading:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106695

  • I am quite fed up with Apple and my iMac - multiple issues

    I've been a Windows user for years. I've suffered through all of the ups and downs of Windows over the years, mostly the downs. I have three Windows 7 computers, and quite frankly, both have performed quite beautifully, albeit without the polish of the Mac.
    Earlier this year, I decided to buy an iMac for a few reasons. First, they are just so beautiful, and even if you are going to run Windows they are probably the best Windows computers out there. Second, I wanted to do more video editing and found the Windows tools weren't very good. I also wanted to run some karaoke software (kJams) that at the time was not available for Windows.
    I was basically pleased with the iMac for a few months. However, there was one problem I could never solve: the wifi connection got lost periodically, even though I had made all of the system updates. I know this is a problem with the iMac, because my numerous Windows PCs and my two iPod toouches had no problem with a wifi connection. It appears from various posts here that this is indeed a problem many others have experienced since Snow Leopard's release, and as far as I can tell, despite many updates to the Airport software it has never been fixed by Apple. Strike 1.
    A couple of weeks ago, my iMac started running slow for no reason I could identify. I don't have a lot of software installed on it, I didn't download anything pirated or questionable. I did install bootcamp according to Apple's instructions, and it worked fine (I wanted to run some Windows games). I tried doing all of the things that folks suggest when your computer is running slow - repairing permissions, running Onyx, etc. None of them seemed to do anything. I tried creating a new user, it had the same problem. I also noticed various other problems with the computer: it was slow to recognize a USB hard drive (and sometimes didn't recognize it at all), external hard drives would not appear in the time machine set up, and various other problems I can't quite recall. Overall, while presumably nothing serious should have been wrong with my computer, I decided I probably should simply reinstall OS X. Strike 2.
    Now, quite frankly I would have been happy to simply reset the computer to its factory state. I would point out that nearly all Windows PCs come with a separate repair partition where it is very easy to do that with one click. I guess Apple is so confident in the reliability of its computers it doesn't think this is a useful feature. So, I had to install OS X using the DVD that came with the computer. It took quite a while to do this, and actually it wasn't at all clear to me that my settings would be kept (one would think that this is something the install screen would point out - Windows makes a quite clear distinction between a "clean install" and a re-install).
    I was somewhat pleased when all of my settings were there. After the long process of reinstalling, I click on the "Accounts" setting I get a message saying that the Preferences application has quit unexpectedly -- clearly there are still problems. Quite irritating given that I just spent an hour trying to re-install the OS. I google around and again find others have had this problem, but unfortunately none of the proposed fixes I try seem to work. And my computer still seems to have other problems - it still doesn't recognize external drives very well. I will say that it seemed to be running a little faster though. Strike 3.
    Anyway, I decide I need to do a full clean install. When I do that, things seem to be working better, although the mouse pointer is quite jerky - I'm thinking that maybe I need to just run software update to fix that. I start the software update - a nice 1gb download is required. Now ,the problem is that I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM WITH WIFI DISCONNECTIONS. So no matter how many times I start the download, I CAN"T FINISH IT. And Apple, in its infinite wisdom, HAS NOT WRITTEN A DOWNLOADER THAT IS SMART ENOUGH TO CONTINUE WHERE IT LEFT OFF. How hard is this to do, really? Do I now have to lug my iMac across the house to put it on a wired connection? I've already wasted hours trying to get this piece of junk working.
    And the sad fact is, once I am done, I will have a very beautiful computer that can't hold an internet connection.
    I have to give Apple kudos for the iMac hardware. It's great. But the software? It's fine as long as it works. But it doesn't always work - and when it doesn't, it actually at this point seems more buggy and difficult to repair than Windows. Is this the last Mac I'll ever buy? Probably. Quite frankly, it's hard to avoid the conclusion that Apple's best developers have moved on to more exciting pastures (iPhone for example). And given the number of unsolved issues posted on these forums (including the ones I mention here), it appears that Apple engineers are simply asleep at the switch.

    Let me start by saying I don't use wireless so I haven't had to deal with it, and I assume you know your way around all the settings in your modem/switch and Windows 7.
    http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&q=Applewifi+signaldrops
    Google turned up a 43 page thread, going on for a year, not very encouraging.
    a href=http://discussions.info.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2142725&tstart=0&me ssageID=12175855#12175855> Dropping Wi FI Signal
    Well for weeks (months?) now, since two or three weeks maybe after 10.6.4 was released, I did not have dropped wifi until today. What is different? I applied the latest security patch less than 24 hours ago.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1094
    Safari and DNS:
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2227251
    http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20016549-263.html
    Airport:
    http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20012462-263.html
    Joining an encrypted wireless network
    When logged in, then AirPort menu bar icon shows the approximate strength of your wireless network signal. All four signal bars darkened means you have very good throughput. If you don't see this menu bar icon, enable it in AirPort preferences. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1126
    If you can focus on networking, there are some excellent people that hang out there.
    http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1343
    If you bought your iMac this year then it likely came with 10.6.3 and shouldn't have a whole lot of updates, outside of iTunes and Safari etc.
    iMac Networking Discussion?
    http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1111
    Support, tutorials, how to, etc:
    http://www.apple.com/support/imac/intel/
    Potential sources for interference with wireless
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1365
    Bluetooth: If your computer stops recognizing your Apple wireless mouse or wireless trackpad, simply click the mouse button or trackpad surface to get it working again. http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3048
    And, sometimes just knowing what make of networking equipment (linksys, netgear, d-link, even Apple). USB ADSL or a USB wireless devices don't work with Macs. Checked for firmware update for the network devices?
    Changing from WEP to WPA
    How do I change from WEP to WPA security, which I have been told is better. I'm sure it is simple but i cant find it.
    These settings are in your wireless router, so you will have to consult the manual for how to access the administration page and change the wireless security settings. Once you have WPA or WPA2 enabled, you will need to reauthenticate your computer with the wireless network since you will have a new password. If you have problems with persistent password requests popping up, you will need to open the "Keychain Access" utility and remove all keychain entries associated with your wireless network and password.
    http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20014188-263.html
    Networking In networking utilities, the in-depth network troubleshooting and monitoring utility VisualRoute ($49.95) has been updated to fix a bug with the "whois" routine, and likewise the Wi-Fi hot spot finder AirRadar ($19.95) has also been updated with a small bug fix for the signal status not updating.
    The network administration and security testing utility NetScan (free) has also been updated and now has a revamped interface and new features for port scanning as well as fixes for icon appearance and update-checking problems.
    http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20013211-263.html
    As for restore, it is different, won't be the same, but there are two ways to handle that on a Mac:
    Apple TimeMachine
    Clone OS X: bootable (yes, you can boot from 2nd or 3rd hard drive) - SuperDuper ($29) is superb and I update the backup (15 minutes) before applying updates.
    That way I have my previous system with all data, not just an image, all my data and going back in time.
    From another thread:
    if you have issues when using an AirPort router, you've either got interference issues causing your problems or a system issue.
    whenever possible:
    1) Vist an Apple Store
    2) Try your machine on their network
    3) If the connection drops, make them fix it.
    Reason being, I've tried and checked log after log and have never seen a connection drop inside an Apple Store.
    My gut reaction would be interference but the easiest move may be to check it in an Apple Store if at all possible.
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2142725&start=225&tstart=0
    If you connect to the Internet or a network in several different ways (using AirPort or Ethernet, for example), you can change the order of the network port configurations your computer tries when connecting to the Internet or a network.
    To change the priority of a network port configuration:
    1) Choose Apple menu > System Preferences, and then click Network.
    2) Choose Set Service Order from the Actions pop-up menu.
    3) Drag a service, such as Ethernet, to the top of the list. When you try to connect, Mac OS X will try the port configuration at the top of the list.©
    Tip: Any Network Device listed here that you'll never use for a Network Connection should be set to 'Inactive'.

  • I just restored my ipod as a new ipod and it won't let me sign in with my apple ID and says that it has an error connecting to the server, when I am already connected to the wifi.

    I just restored my ipod as a new ipod. It will not let me sign in with my apple ID and says that it has a problem connecting with the server, even though I am already connected to the wifi.

    Yes, of course.   Did you set up with your Apple ID?    
    Reset the iPad to factory and set it up with your Apple ID and password.   You can still sync different apps, music and other stuff onto the iPad,  the devices need not mirror each other.
    I have an old wifi iPad, an iPod touch and a new iPad mini with cellular.   All on the same Apple ID and password, different content on some apps, same on others.

  • I want to set up the Time Machine and I would love to use the Time  Capsule but since I already have a wireless router I need suggestions on  what other external disks Apple could recommend to use with the Time Machine and  how to configure that disk

    I want to set up the Time Machine and I would love to use the Time
    Capsule but since I already have a wireless router I need suggestions on
    what other
    external disks Apple could recommend to use with the Time Machine and
    how to configure that disk.
    A complication that I need to resolve is the fact that I am using Vmware
    Fusion to be able to use Windows on my Mac. Now it seems that Time
    Machine is not backing up my files
    on that virtual Windows without additional configuration and my question
    is whether you can advise me here or whether this is only a matter for
    the Fusion virtual machine.

    If you want to use Time Capsule you can.. you simply bridge it and plug it into the existing router.. wireless can be either turned off or used to reinforce the existing wireless.. eg use 5ghz in the TC which is much faster than your 2.4ghz.
    You can also use a NAS.. many brands available but the top brands are synology, qnap and netgear readynas  series. These will all do Time Machine backups although how well always depends on Apple sticking to a standard. There are cheaper ones.. I bought a single disk zyxel which was rebadged and sold through my local supermarket. It actually works very well for TM at least on Snow Leopard. Major changes were made in Lion and again ML so do not instantly think it will work on later versions. I haven't tried it yet with those versions.
    Any external drive can be plugged into the mac. Use the one with the fastest connection or cheapest price according to your budget. USB2 drives are cheap and plentiful. But no where near as fast as USB3 or FW800. So just pick whichever suits the ports on your Mac. Interesting Apple finally moved to USB3 on their latest computers.
    TM should exclude the VM partition file.. it is useless backing it up from Mac OS side.. and will slow TM as it needs to backup that partition everyday for no purpose.. TM cannot see the files inside it to backup just the changes.
    You need to backup windows from windows. Use MSbackup to external drive.. if you have pro or ultimate versions you can backup to network drive. But MSbackup is a dog.. at least until the latest version it cannot restore the partition without first loading windows. There are about a zillion backup software versions for windows.. look up reviews and buy one which works for you. I use a free one Macrium Reflect which does full disk backups and is easy to restore.. to do incremental backups though you have to pay for it.

  • Hi, i am having an issue with a basic motion scroll effect.  I already watched and read every tutorial out there regarding this topic and even tried the adobe chat support, but the guy on the other end of the line disconnected me-, probably he didn't unde

    Hi, i am having an issue with a basic motion scroll effect.
    I already watched and read every tutorial out there regarding this topic and even tried the adobe chat support, but the guy on the other end of the line disconnected me…, probably he didn't understand what i wanted from him because english is not my native language, so a will try to be very, very clear about this one..
    please note, that i am new to muse, this is my first project ever.
    my idea is as following:
    when the customer comes to our companies site, he just sees our logo on a white Background. the logo consists of, say, four elements. when the customer scrolls down, the logo starts to disassamble: first the first part of the logo flies out the left side of the site, then the second part of the logo vanishes down, then the third part of the logo flies to the right, then the fourth part of the logo flies to the top and out of the customers view. given what i have seen, it is possible to do that….
    so…..
    now i have the four parts of my logo imported as png files into muse and assembled them in design view to build our companies logo. I select every one of the four parts and go into the scroll effects tab left beside the layers tab. first i enter the same values for every one of the four parts: initial motion: 0x and 0x again for the left and right motion; key position ( t-handle) : 0px; final motion: 0x and 0x again for the left and right value.
    now i hit "preview".: the logo is "pinned" at the correct position, i can scroll but the logo stays where it is. so far so good….
    now i select all the four elements again and go to the scroll effecs tab. at "final motion", i click the down arrows and enter 1x. I hit Preview…
    when i am scrolling down the WHOLE logo goes down…. so far so good.
    NOW i want the first part of the logo to go down, THEN the second part to go left, THEN the third part to go up, THEN the fourth part to go right.
    so i select ONLY the first part, go to the scroll motion tab, at "final motion" i click the left arrows, then i enter 1x.( the up-down value, i set to 0 again).. i hit Preview…
    the first part of the logo goes left as soon as i start scrolling, the other three parts still go down at the same time…
    NOW i want the second part of the logo to start moving, when the first part has left the scene, not at the same time as the first part.
    SO I SELECT THE SECOND PART AND DRAG ITS T-HANDLE (KEY POSITION) DOWN TO, LETS SAY, 200PX. SO IT STARTS MOVING ONLY AFTER THE CUSTOMER HAS REACHED THAT POINT, RIGHT?
    BUT WHEN I PREVIEW THAT ****, THE LOGO IS NOT TOGETHER ANYMORE, THE SECOND PART IS FLOATING ANYWHERE ELSE BUT WHERE IT SHOULD BE…..WTFF????
    short: when i move the t handle, the initial position of the object changes. thats what i said to the adobe employee, but he said, that thats the expected behavior….
    but if thats so, how can i have my four parts correctly together, so they form my logo, but with different t handles, so that they all start to move at different times??
    Pleeease help me, i am dying of frustration here…..:( that behavior cant be right, right?
    Thanks so much to everyone who actually reads this post and tries to help…….
    All the best,
    Niki Lapan

    Thank you so much for helping,
    But i really wonder how you did that. did you always switch between design view and preview view, then change the key position for 2px then switch back, to align the four letters? because i imagine that can get really frustrating, if you have a logo consisting of 58 parts instead of 4!:)
    Anyway thank you very much for your time and effort!!!!

  • I am upgrading to Calendar Server 4.0 on NT with more than 9 nodes (or I already have) and my server won't start

    I am upgrading to Calendar Server 4.0 on NT with more than 9 nodes
    (or I already have) and my server won't start.
    <P>
    The steps are the same whether you have already upgraded or are about to.
    <P>
    Calendar Server 4.0 on the Windows NT platform can only support up to nine
    nodes on one server, while 3.51 supported up to 14. If you have a Calendar
    Server 3.51 with more than 9 nodes that you want to upgrade to Calendar Server
    4.0, Netscape recommends that you migrate the extra nodes to another Calendar
    Server 3.51 on another Windows NT system. To accomplish this:
    <OL>
    <LI>Install Calendar Server on another Windows NT machine and configure it to
    use the same directory server as your current Calendar Server.
    <LI>Stop and backup your current Calendar Server.
    <LI>Individually zip up the node directories you want to move to the new
    server. (drive:\unsers\unison\db\Nx
    where "x" is the number of the node you want to use.)
    <LI>Stop the new Calendar Server.
    <LI>Unzip the files into the new Calendar Server in the same place as they
    were on the old server.
    <LI>Edit the unison.ini
    file on the new server to add the nodes you have just migrated.
    <LI>Edit the unison.ini
    file on the old server to remove the nodes you have moved to the new server.
    <LI>Edit the nodes.ini
    file on the old server to remove the nodes you just moved and then add them
    with the new hostname. Keep in mind that you will only be able to modify the
    node network from the old host.
    <LI>Run unidbfix -export
    on both servers for all nodes.
    <LI>Edit the remotenodes.ini
    file on both servers to reflect your node topology.
    <LI>Run unidbfix -import
    to import the changes into the node databases.
    <LI>Run unidbfix -c,
    then -f,
    then -c
    again on both servers for all the nodes.
    <LI>If you don't get any errors, run uninode -test all
    to test if your nodes connections are set properly. If they are not, <B>do not</B>
    start either of the servers; instead, fix the errors and try again.
    <LI>Start both servers.
    <LI>Log in and check to see if you can see people on remote nodes.
    <LI>Notify the users on the moved nodes of their new calendar host.
    <LI>If you did this in preparation of an upgrade, you can now run the upgrade to
    4.0 since both servers contain fewer than 9 nodes.
    </OL>

    Use Disk Utility whihc is in the Utilities Folder.
    Select your Boot Disk on the left.
    Select Verify Permissions
    If any errors the do Reapir permissions.
    You might have to repeat the process.
    see this:
    Steve

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