Filtering Photos based on Export settings

I have a number of presets I use to export versions of photos from Aperture. For example, I have one preset I use to export photos to my photo blog, and another preset I use to export photos to another photosite. Is it possible to filter my Aperture library to show which preset was used for exporting? I can filter and show all the photos I have exported but I can't figure out a way to show which preset was used. From what I know about Aperture, it might not be possible, but I thought I'd ask anyway. My only solution going forward would be to tag the version with some piece of metadata in the future that can be used by Aperture filters.

You are correct: Aperture does not retain any data that would let you sort, group, or filter by Export Preset used (afaik).
"Export" means "make me a file from the selected Image(s) according to these settings". The settings, of course, become part of the file, but are not captured and stored with the Image.
Could you expand on your need and your current workflow? The question you first must answer is whether your need is to mark Images by Export Preset, or (if you are using Export Preset as a proxy) your need is to mark Images by use/destination.
One thing I do is create Albums for every important "output" set of Images. So when I gather six pictures to post to, for instance, DPR, I will put them in an Album, and export the contents of the Album. I retain all these Albums, so that I can always return to my selection (partially because that's how I remember them, e.g.: "the set of bird pictures I uploaded last fall to the Sony forum"). I name the Albums (and in the case "DPR" is just a trivial example) with a naming convention that lets me easily group them with a Library search.
Any external use that is repeated can be (manually) keyworded. I suggest this for your blog, and any photos site that you use often.
(Fwiw, "Album" and "keyword" are topologically equivalent, afaict. I recommend keywords for characteristics that are globally applicable to your Library, and Albums for characteristics that are only locally applicable. Blog photos fall in the middle. Whether they are more "global" or "local" depends on the nature of your Library and of your blog.)
I don't know if that is helpful, but I'm sure we can come up with some suggestions that might be.
Message was edited by: Kirby Krieger — rewritten for clarity.

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Adobe Media Encoder CS4--Missing part of interface in Export Settings

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I cannot guarantee that it is not a software issue. Sometimes Matrox is an easy "target." However, with several other Matrox users having similar issues, it does seem that Matrox might be the common element.
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FCP export settings for import in iMovie '08

Q: What QT/ Compressor export settings do I need to use in FCP in order to be able to import the MOV file in iLife '08?
The reason for using iLife '08 is solely for sharing the movie to dotMac.
(if you know alternatives bypassing iMovie '08 ... be my guest).
Background:
I create my footage with a Sony HDR-HC7.
I capture the footage on my Macs (G5 and MBP) via FCP.
I edit my sequence in FCP using the HDV sequence presets
I output using FCP export to Quicktime. MOV file has HDV properties.
Funny: the captured MOV file with HDV properties can be read by iMovie '08 , the edited sequence with exactly the same HDV properties can not be read by iMovie '08 .
I tried a Compressor conversion to:
- Apple preset iTV --> no import
- Apple preset iPod video --> no import
- Apple preset m2v and m4v --> both no import
- Apple preset mp4 --> no import
iLife help mentiones that it accepts DV, mp4 and some MOV formats.
Q: what is the list of "some"
Please help.
Coen

Q: What QT/ Compressor export settings do I need to use in FCP in order to be able to import the MOV file in iLife '08?
Don't have FCP v5/6 but with older FCP/FCE usually use AIC for crossover in MOV file container.
iLife help mentiones that it accepts DV, mp4 and some MOV formats.
Q: what is the list of "some"
I have personally used DV, AIC, MJPEG, MPEG4, H.264 and i believe Photo-JPEG with which another individual indicated he was having problems. As to audio for these files, usually use DV, Linear PCM ("Big Endian" Integer), AAC, or even uncompressed. Avoid Apple Animation and Apple Video compression formats which will import/edit but will not correctly export. However, be advised that there are some caveats. E.g., a "Large or Full" slideshow export from iPhoto places the MPEG4/AAC data in an MOV file container which iMovie '08 will not import. However, if you use the MPEG Streamclip "Save As..." File menu option to save the same data in an MP4 file container. Therefore, would say that some problems here may be associated with iMovie '08 "pre-scanning" of files and possible minor bugs in proper error trapping on compression formats vs file containers.

Export Settings for Mpix Pro

Can anyone tell me specific export settings to use for mpix pro? Or, settings in general for commercial labs?
Thanks,
Bill

Changing the DPI or PPI (pixels per inch) setting has absolutely no impact on print quality. The only thing that matters is the pixel dimensions of the image. For instance, if you send an image with pixel dimensions of 800x600 pixels and expect to print a 16 x 20" print from that image, it isn't going to work. There aren't enough pixels regardless of what the PPI setting is. If you want to do the math to determine how many pixels you need that is up to you. I usually just send the full-sized image. Most of the labs that I have used will warn you if there aren't enough pixels. So if you send the full-sized image it doesn't matter whether it's set at 72 PPI, 150 PPI, 300 PPI, or whatever. You still have all the pixels and can print the same quality.
It's amazing what commercial labs can do these days. I was in a local camera store one day when they have an in-house photolab. And they were printing a very large photo on roll paper. It probably measured somewhere in the neighborhood of 3 x 4' or larger. The quality was very good. I asked them how large of an image was required for a print of that size, and to my surprise they said two megapixels. While I would recommend pushing my luck that far I was really impressed with the quality of the image.

Best export settings? Post your tips!

I have been using iMovie for a long time. I have messed with settings quite a bit but the files always come out huge. I have seen other people's QT movies with great image quality for small file size. I have no idea how they do it.
My best experience in iMovie is to use the CD-ROM setting for export. This gives it the window size that I want, with a small file size, while maintaining pretty good image quality.
I'm talking about custom settings here. I need something other than the pre-made settings. There are so many custom options, but they're all way over my head. My goal is to use something other than h264, but keep the CD-ROM quality and size.
Does anyone have any good custom settings they recommend for getting a good balance of dimensions, image quality, and file size?
If so, post your tips! Let us know your favorite export settings!
--Timothy

The export settings are determined by the way the file is to be viewed.
"Local" files (those on CD's or fast networks) can be much larger in file size because bandwidth isn't much of an issue. Sent to iDVD and they make great videos that can only play in DVD players or software.
"Web" based files are a new can of worms because each persons opinion of "good" and also "small" file size differ so much.
Best advice anyone can give you is for you to make your own sample export "tests":
Take a minute sample (a part that has high action and motion) and choose the "Expert Settings" to send the file to QuickTime.
Try various video codecs and adjust the data and frame rate to raise or reduce file size.
Try AAC audio (very popular audio format) but set the frequency to "half" of CD quality (22050 Hz). This will be half as large in file size.
If your camera didn't record in stereo (most don't) set the file to mono and you reduce the file size in half again.
Compression is nearly an art form and the options in the expert settings can be a bit confusing.

Retina Display Export Settings?

I recently bought a new 13 inch Macbook Pro with the Retina Display and was super excited to use it with Lightroom 4. I began to edit and export photos for airplane-pictures.net for upload. The website requires that the photos be a .jpg file between 1024px and 1600px on the long edge and less than 3MB. On my old MBP (Macbook Pro), I always exported photos with the same settings at 1280px on the long edge with 72ppi, and a quality of 80 and high sharpening for screen. I did the same thing with my new Retina Display MBP and the photos look terrible. There is an excessive amount of jaggies that make the image look really over sharpened and even out of focus before and after uploading. (I have tried adjusting quality, pip, and screen sharpening but they have resulted in no improvement) However, if I keep those settings, but I don't resize the image at all and leave the "resize to fit" box unchecked and is opened in Preview, the photos look beautiful, AND they are fit perfectly in my 1280px screen. So it's like the photo is automatically resized when I export it without checking the box and it seemingly fits at 1280px, however the website will not accept at the large proportions of something like 5363px × 3352px. Does that make sense? In short, when I resize the photo in export to 1280px, it looks awfully out of focus and over sharpened, but when I don't resize the image and open it in Preview it fits to my screen and looks gorgeous! Has anyone used Lightroom 4 with the Retina Display and figured out some sort of solution? Again, when I used these same settings on my OLD MBP the photos looked just as great.
Thank you in advance!

The website needs to understand how to serve images to retina (or the windows equivalent - hiDPI) machines. Many are not. Many websites need some extra code: for example this: Jao's photo blog: A much simpler way to serve retina displays the right images . Image sites like flickr, smugmug, 500px etc, all do this correctly if you upload large enough images but those are exceptions. Also, even if you are using a website that understands how to do this, your browser might not be new enough to ask for the higher res image. Only newer versions of Firefox and Chrome do this. Safari has always done it right since the retina machines came out and on iPads and iPhones.
My guess is that the website you are using is not doing this right. Which is not surprising as these displays are still fairly uncommon. So your website probably resizes the image at the size it is thinking it is displaying on normal screens.
Lastly, high sharpening is usually too much. Also think about the size you need. A 13" retina has a 2560-by-1600 pixel resolution. A 1280 pixel wide image will look good when it takes up about 50% of the width of your display. At that size it will be about 1 pixel in the file per pixel on the screen. If it is displayed larger, it will look unsharp. So think about how wide on the display it will be shown and determine from that your maximum size you need. Preview is not a good gauge as it by default doesn't show 1:1. You need to change the setting in the preview preferences->images to be "1 image pixel equals 1 screen pixel" and then do a command-zero on your exported file to see what it actually looks like. Also, this only works correctly if you set the resolution of your screen in System preferences to "best for display"

Please help me with export settings and format

I'll try to explain my problem the best I can. I recently captured some footage from old VHS tapes to use in a Christmas video. I imported one of the MPGs that I captured to AE and applied a grain removal plus a couple other lighting effects to the video to improve the quality as well as I could. When I went to export it (through the render que) I found myself confronted with a huge amount of format options and after doing some reading online thought a Quicktime .MOV file with Photo JPEG compression would give me a reasonable size video but after doing the math (an a bit of the rendering) realized that my 2 hour video, that was originally only around 6GB was being converted into a .MOV file that was around 80GB, which is too large for my HDD. Now, I would love to go out and purchase a 1TB SSD right now but I can't currently afford it. I need to end up with a file as close to the original file size as possible but with the grain removed, and the highest quality (for the file size) and just need to know the best settings to use to accomplish that. I looked around for several hours and couldn't find a quick and easy answer like "just export a MPEG 2 file" with ..... settings. The file is going to be imported into Premiere for final edit with several others that are probably going to need the same adjustments. It will then be exported to a 1080p BluRay (with an HD photo slideshow). Also I am using Production Premium CS4, if that makes any difference.
Any quick tips about the grain removal effect would be greatly appreciated as well. I'm currently using a removal amount of .8 with the effect running 6 passes. I also changed the texture setting under "fine tuning" to .4. It's a little blury but MUCH better than grainy, and about as good as I can expect from a 25 year old VHS. If you've used this effect before and know a couple little tweaks I could apply to make the video a little sharper (without the grain) that would be amazing.
Thanks in advance.

The file size is defined by bitrate. The winners among production codecs regard to 'quality / render time / file size' ratio, DNxHD and ProRes, utilise almost identical bitrate: up to 440 Mbps while encoding with 4:4:4 colour subsampling and up to 220 Mbps while encoding to 4:2:2. Do some math, and you'll end up with 90-200 GB/hour.
So, the only option to save on disk space is to utilise highly compressed codec like H.264. With target bitrate set to 100 Mbps (you can set the bitrate in the Export Settings dialog) the quality loss might look affordable (don't remember if you can encode to Level 5 on CS4 though).
If you eventually choose H.264 (working with which on CS4 might in turn result in a nightmare), do not export to H.264 from AE directly. Export to H.264 via AME...

Export Settings for HD footage

Hello,
Please excuse my lack of knowledge........
Basically I have finished my project, which was shot on a Panasonic AGHMC41E and edited on FCP Studio, clips were format DVCProHD.
I am looking to find out the best quality Export Settings so I dont loose pic quality or encounter pixelation.
So the footage is HD but I only want it for SD DVD
I am looking for the QT Movie Setting Options for:
Compression type:
Motion:
Date Rate: ie restrict too etc..
Additional advice is welcome....

If your audio has an issue which remains consistent throughout the track, then just deal with it in the timeline using FCP Audio filters. However, for intermittent audio harshness, you will want to export your audio into Soundtrack Pro.
Go through the audio looking at the Spectrum View, narrowing the frequency spectrum a bit so you can see what you're doing, like 80 - 10K. The "harsh sounding" audio will show a bright color. In my setup, that color is yellow. Draw rectangular boxes around the yellow audio "clouds" and reduce the Amplitude by a percentage, but not too much!
The audio should sound better after the offending frequencies have been reduced to an appropriate level. Just don't make your rectangles too tall because tallness means a wider swath of the frequency spectrum will be affected and it can begin to sound noticeably weird, so be careful. The affect should sound smooth when you play it back.
I hope that helps.
Eddie

The best export settings for 6x4 & 5x7 prints...

Hi guys,
I am using iphoto '08 and was hoping that someone can assist me with what export settings to use for 6x4 and 5x7 prints. I have 800 odd pics that I want to upload to an online printing company who happen to have a special on at the moment. If I export all the pics at full resolution i get over 1GB of data that I can't upload to the site. So my question is what setting should I use to reduce the file size so that I get a decent print and file size.
Most of the pics are currently JPEG and 3456 × 2304 in size giving a file size of 3.1-3.3MB. When exporting should I leave the JPEG Quality at maximum and change the file size?
Thanks,
Adrian

What quality print do you want?
THe more pixels the better - in theory
most people want a minimum of 300 dpi so you need to multiple the print size in inches by 300 to get the DPI - 4x6 == 1200x1800 - and crop to 4x6 first so the photo processor does not crop for you
5x7 == 1500x2100 (and again you are better off to do the 5x7 crop)
150 DPI is generally a very acceptable print - so for 150 DPI cut the above number in 1/2
And use maximum quality JPEG for the best quality - a lower quality for a smaller size
LN

Better FLV export settings?

Hi - hope someone can help me with this dilemna I'm in.
I'm working on a video production that will involve a hearing person presenting training, a person next to him presenting it in sign language, and sub-titles.
I want to export the files as F4V files because they seem to be really clear, especially at full screen [1280x720]. The problem is when I export to F4V and then use Flash's default plain-vanilla player controller, none of the controllers have full-screen capability.
So I've reverted to this convoluted work-around where I export the video as FLV, and then I'm able to fool the Camtasia export settings, which has a full-screen player built-in, to "accept" this FLV file I exported from Adobe Media Encoder.
The end result is the Camtasia player with full-screen plays back my FLV file and also allows viewer to view it in full-screen. I would love to use F4V but I'm just not smart enough to figure out how to make one of the player controllers built into Flash have the fll-screen capability, so I have to revert to this work-around.
However, the FLV video is not very good, so is there a way for me to boost the FLV export in Encoder so it looks much better? Here are the FLV current export settings. Also, here is 10-sec test clip.
http://designerandpublisher.com/test/test-sequence.html

I don't think you will be able to get an FLV looking as good as the H.264 based F4V.
Better to switch the player to one that gives you the options you need.

Export Settings - Drag & Drop to Desktop from iPhoto

How can I find out what export settings iPhoto is using when I drag and drop a picture from iPhoto to my desktop?

The iPhoto preview is a "good-enough-for-most-things" version of the photo. Medium compression and so on, but it is missing metadata and is always a jpeg.
With File -> Export you can write the metadata to the exported file (If you use a format that supports that), you can export your Original, Jpeg (in different qualities), Tiff and Png, you can scale the size and have options for the name of the exported file.
Put another way: drag and drop is handy, Exporting is the full monty.

What are highest quality export settings from iMovie to FCE 4.0?

I am using iMovie '08 to create Ken Burns effect movies from iPhoto photos to import into FCE. I want the least amount of loss from iMovie to FCE.
What are the highest quality settings for exporting from iMovie to FCE.
I do not care about size of file etc. Highest quality is all that matters to me.
Cheers,
Chuck

Well here are the facts.
My original question rephrased: "I want to know what are the settings to export Ken Burns created movies (therefore using photos) from iMovie (in this case iMovie '08) with the least loss and regardless of file size for importation into Final Cut Express".
I went to the local Apple store and some of the users (employees) of Final Cut Pro mentioned appropriately they thought .DV would be the best. However when we played some created videos they looked horrible when compared to .MOV with H.264. This just did not make sense, but we went by what we were seeing. Not being able to think with this I did more research and found this article which explained why .DV lookes like pooh pooh compared to H.264 video.
The article http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93002 explains a setting in Quicktime preferences that if not selected some videos appear pixelated.
So, when this preference in Quicktime is selected (never thought to try playing on VLC) the .DV movies look better than those using H.264. So with this resolved then my trial and error testing was realistic. That is I could try different export settings and see which ones looked better to determine the best export setting.
I tried what I thought was everything as far as "Export using Quicktime..." settings. Then I read in "iMovie '08 & iDVD: The Missing Manuals" under "The Video Codecs: A Catalog" an explanation of every type of compression when using the settings under "Movie to QuickTime Movie". Finally someone wrote more data on the codecs. I never found such explanation on the apple website (discussions etc). I really got tired of reading how H.264 is the better than sliced bread "greatest quality for the file size" which I think is true but did nothing to answer my original question. The book then mentioned the option "none". I was like I don't remember this option for "Compression Type". (BTW this all applies to iPhoto '08, Final Cut Express 4, and QuickTime Pro). So I tried "None".
Wow! Zero pixelation! Vivid colors! So I created three videos. One using H.264, DV/DVCPRO - NTSC and None (I had already tried many others but for this last experiment just these three). I also maxed out the Quality for each compressor. Results:
- H.264 colors looked a little faded from the original photos and minor minor fuzziness, file size about 6 MB
- DV/DVCPRO - NTSC colors a little more vivid and less fuzziness, file size about 60 MB
- None...Bam! absolutely photo quality resolution and color, file size about 600 MB. I didn't care about the size.
So, bingo "None" as as the compressor settings in Quicktime to export iMovie '08 Ken Burns effect slide shows for importation into Final Cut Express (FCE) with minimal loss and who cares about the file size. Yeah, this is mammoth file but this allows me to make snappy Extremely High Quality Ken Burns effect videos in iMovie for FCE. Then when I export from FCE I don't make a copy of a copy but make my first compression of the video.
That is my answer!
I consider this thread closed and will only open if I find any of this is incorrect. BTW I already imported the iMovie '08 video with compression "None" into FCE and after rendering it looks awesome and plays well.
Cheers,
Chuck

Best export settings for tv slideshow

what are the absolute BEST export settings to use when creating a slideshow to be played on a tv? additionally, i have used images with text & photos imported from illustrator.
i want slides to be of the highest quality, along with text that DOES NOT have a halo around it..

You can't ask for the 'absolute best' and then quality it. The absolute best is something lossless, but those files rarely play on anything but a computer. So you need something that plays on the TV, which isn't likely to be the absolute best. But...chances are it will be plenty good enough.
Use the H.264 format with the Match Source - High bitrate preset.

Best image EXPORT settings for best quality

What should i have my export settings at when exporting to a jump drive to give to clients for web and printing use???
When i see my images uploaded on Facebook for example, the qulity looks poor which worries me that when printing the quality will be poor as well. Am i missing something in the setting for exporting? What is the proper way to export for the best quality image? HELP!
My settings now under Aperture>Presets>Image Export:
JPG Original size
300 dpi

t_hall10 wrote:
The information provided was helpful, but did not completely answer my question...
Are there specific settings with-in Aperture I can set for exporting so that clients have the ability to print as wanted and post on the web as wanted whithout losing any major amount of photo quality?
No, not for one size fits all.
I do appreciate this may be a frustrating answer, but non-the-less, that's how it is.
t_hall10 wrote:
Should I be gving 2 folders of pictures, one for web use and one for printing use? If I were to do that, what should the exporting setting be set for both folders?
Maybe, it's your choice.
Let's go through the settings.
The only real quality setting is for JPG compression. 12 is virtually no (lossless) compression but gives huge file sizes which may breach a websites limits.
A 16MP images on quality 12 will be about 22MB. 11 brings it down to 8MB and 10 down to 7MB. You'd be very hard pressed to see the difference between a 12 and a 10. But if you want to feel you are giving the best quality without the extreme file size, go for 11.
The the vast majority of web sites, like facebook, will either resize uploaded images and/or re-compress them. They may also crop them to a different aspect ratio to fit their browser software.
Many report the best size for upload to facebook, for small images is 960 pixels on the long side. For large images it's 2048. For different websites it may be different. It is discussed on many photography sites and blogs. You will find some promoting the 960 / 2048, and others with their own preferences. Here's a good one which also shows you many ways FB will mess with the images:
http://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/images-photos-facebook-sizes-dimens ions-types
The safest colour space is sRGB (Mac profile: sRGB IEC61966-2.1) as it will more often be right than wrong. You should preview your images on screen with this profile to get a feel for how it will look and avoid unexpected colour shifts in your files. Ideally your screen should be calibrated so you know what you are giving them is accurate.
To understand the printing issue, try this exercise:
If you have a printer installed on your Mac, it probably also installed some printer profiles. In Aperture, look at one of your nicer vibrant images. From the view menu turn on 'Onscreen Proofing' and then from the 'Proofing Profile' sub menu, select one of your printer profiles and look at how the onscreen image changes. Repeat with each of the printing profiles and see how the image changes each time.
This is only a fraction of the colour shifts that will be occuring after you give your file to someone and they print it on their own uncalibrated system with their uncalibrated printer.
Many photographers don't offer full size images to their clients. They will usually give them smaller versions for their own use, which may include small size printing.
They will either do the main printing themself on their own calibrated printer, or work with a print shop, and may have installed calibrated profiles on their system for the shops printing equipment so they can use onscreen proofing to gauge what the pictures will look like when printed on that equipment.
But if you are just giving a file to someone, you lose all control of how they will print it. Even experienced photographers and computer users can struggle to make the prints match close to what they look like on screen.
Most often photos will appear too dark, or the colours look wrong, or it lacks sharpness. There are some settings on the export presets for gamma and blackpoint compensation. Gamma will brighten the image for when it's printing too dark, and blackpoint will try to stop the shadows turning black (within the chosen colour space). But as you don't know in advance whether the images are going to print too dark, or the shadows are turning black, you can't really set these for a one-size fits all scenario.
So there are not many settings to help you here.
You are actually moving into the realm of defining your product. You could, for example, ask the client which site they intend to publish the photos on, research that site and produce files optimized specifically for that site.
You also need to decide what size (resolution) files to give them for printing and whether you are happy giving away your full size images.
These choices will lead you to a number of a different files sizes as 'your product', all should be in sRGB colour space, and all with quality 10 or 11. For any client's who know how to make use of a wider clour space like Adobe RGB for printing, they will probably ask you up front to supply the print versions as such.
Next, for each size and usage, you now need to sharpen these images.
This is because sharpeing is best applied to images that have been resized to their intended output size and should be sharpened in accordance with how they will be viewed. Images displayed on computer screen generally need less sharpening than those that will be printed. Depening on the printer, the images may need some oversharpening in the file, in order to appear crisp and sharp in the print. As you won't be controlling the printing process you should probably avoid oversharpening. The bottom line is, if people are taking on the task of their own printing, they'll need to figure out what they are doing to get good results, or use a commercial printer.
Andy

Premiere Pro CS4 "Export Settings" window does not show up.

Hello,
I've run into a new problem with Premiere Pro CS4. Basically, when I select "File > Export > Media" my Export Settings window doesn't show up. If I click on the Premiere window I hear the beeping sound and nothing happens, if I hit Enter the Export Data window pops up and then Media Encoder opens. So, it seems that my Export Settings window is still open but I can't see it and make the necessary setting changes. It does not appear to be minimized and I can not locate it on my desktop anywhere. This is really frustrating because I was able to see the Export Settings window just a few weeks ago when I was exporting my last project. I've tried changing my screen resolutions but that didnt reveal the Export Settings window.
Does anyone know what is going on here and, more importantly, how I can fix it? I am really stuck here and am working against a deadline. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
-Ben

Ben,
THANK YOU!!!! For two days I have been struggling with the exact same issue. And of course it was simple to fix, if I had just thought about it. Thank you for taking the time to post your experience. I had tried all sorts of stuff trying to get everything onto my #1 monitor, with desktop & workspace resets, resizing my display, etc. After reading and printing your post,
Hitting ALT+Space,
Down Arrow,
Enter,
and then pressing the left arrow and watching my Export window slide into view, I was laughing so hard, that I was tearing up. It would have been a month waiting for my second monitor to get repaired to get to see what was still being displayed on this ghost monitor. Each week, I video and edit our church's service and then post three versions (Windows Media Player, Ipod-MP4, MP3 Audio) of it to our web site. I would have been four weeks behind were it not for your post.
Again, a BIG Thank You!!!
Tony Salso
[email protected]
Cedar City, UT 84720
Tony—Professional Digital Pictures
--Videographer and Webmaster
Red Hills Southern Baptist Church
Serving Jesus in Southern Utah
[email protected]
www.redhillssbc.org

Filtering Photos based on Export settings

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