Focus blur with Core image

Hello,
I hope I'm in the good forum, I was not sure where to post . Is there a way to reproduce the focus blur fliter of Gimp with Core image ?
Thank you...

Image Units Included with Tiger:
Blur...
* Median Blur
* Gaussian Blur
* Motion Blur
* Zoom Blur
* Noise Reduction
http://developer.apple.com/MacOsX/coreimage.html
Image Tricks Pro 2.4 / http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/19033
Version 2.4:
4 filters for both Mac OS X 10.4 and 10.5:
* Transform;
* Bi-Color (Pro version), False Color (Color category);
* Square Tile (Tile category, Pro version);
13 Leopard (Mac OS X 10.5) only filters:
* Comic Effect (Color category);
* _Box Blur, Disc Blur (Focus category, in Blur group);_
* Bump Distortion Linear (Distortion category);
* Line Overlay (Style category);
* Fourfold Rotated, Fourfold Translated, Glide Reflected (Tile category, Tiled Textures group);
* Eightfold Reflected, Fourfold Reflected, Sixfold Reflected, Sixfold Rotated (Tile category, Reflected Textures group);
* Bars Swipe Transition (Overlap category, Pro version).

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Indesign CS4 really slow with CMYK images

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How to export a short film made with still images without loosing quality?

Hi,
I have been trying everything to make a short film, which is made with still images, to look decent once exported however it is a real challenge. Here are the steps I have undertaken:
1- I prepare the photographs and give them the aspect ration of 720p and whatever height as I try not to crop them too much at 300dpi. They look great in photoshop or capture one. I then save them as.tiff. All the images are RGB.
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3-I import the images and place them on the timeline. If they are a bit too big I rescale them. The images seem to look ok on the timeline although I seem to have lost the deepness of the colours.
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I have now tried about t bu15 versions to see what 's the best I still have not reached the optimum quality and since these will be shown on big tvs or projected onto screens I need to nail it.
Would anybody have any advice please please please?
Many Thanks

My overall advice is to do that kind of work in an application that is designed for that. Give Photodex Proshow Producer trial a crack at it. I do a lot of work with stills, and that IMO PSP is the best approach. If you are intermixing the odd still, Pr may get you by. If you plan on doing a lot of that, try proshow, where the workflow and extensive features are designed for making high quality videos from stills that can be output to a wide number of formats and destinations, including color management with many of them( including avi). And, no need to resize. I know this won't solve your present problem.
Obviously, your attempt in Pr has not worked out as you had hoped. Maybe a bit more info would help. How are you rescaling them in Pr? That might well account for some quality loss. What is the original format and size of the images? What color management are you using in PS? Are you using any color correction or effects in Pr? Is your project interlaced or progressive?
From your description, you are not even getting the quality you should be getting from Pr IMO, though as Jim says, it is video and it will never look as pristine as it does in PS, but it still seems to me that something you are doing has degraded the work more than normally would be expected.

Crash with still images and keyframes?

Has anyone experienced a HARD crash on Premiere Pro CS6 (v6.0.2) mac when working with still images on the timeline & adding keyframes to add slight movement to those images?
without adding keyframes, the images seem to sit happily in my sequence but as soon as I add keyframes, it crashes so hard I can't switch to another application, force quit, or anything except a hard restart.
Premiere has been pretty damn solid for me since the latest update and since I went to 16GB RAM so this is surprising and frustrating.
any advice will be appreciated.
I'm on
OS X 10.8.2
MBP 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7
16GB RAM
graphics: AMD Radeon HD 6750M 1024MB
thanks
\d

Photo Scaling for Video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798
-Too Large May = Crash http://forums.adobe.com/thread/879967
-And another crash report http://forums.adobe.com/thread/973935

Reduce file size w/o blurring up my images?

I have a Pages (iWork '09) document with a lot of images (screenshots) in it. Many of these are large shots where I've used the mask option to hide what I don't need. The file is pretty large, even when I export it to PDF. Using the Reduce File Size option turns my screenshots into a blurry mess. Is there are way to get rid of the cropped areas w/o mucking with the image resolutions? Most of the pics were screenshots from Evernote dropped into the Pages file.
Short of that, will exporting to PDF and using Adobe Acrobat Pro's file optimization do the trick w/o blurring things up too badly?

Thanks for that. I was hoping I had independent control of cropping. I'll just have to do the cropping manually and rely on masking for trimming out little bits of things. I'm coming to Pages after years with Word, which allows more control when it comes to dumbing down images. I really like composing things in Pages. Now I just have to learn the best ways to get quality output w/o huge file sizes.
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Hi, I've just downloaded the latest release 10.1.1 and now I do not see any more correctly my clips either in the canvas and in the timeline. Playing clips, they now appears with garbled images, completely unstables: I can not editing in these conditions!

Hi, I've just downloaded the latest release 10.1.1 and now I do not see any more correctly my clips either in the canvas and in the timeline. Playing clips, they now appears with garbled images, completely unstables: I can not editing in these conditions!
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Thank you, Claudio

Hi Russ, Thank you for your reply!
System Spec:
2x2.26 Ghz QUAD-CORE
12 GB RAM 1066 MHz DDR3
I've stored the library in HARD DISK which is installed inside my computer (1 TB capacity) and different from my hard disk in which I've installed all my applications (600 GB capacity).
I've installed FCP since 2001, bought FCP X in 2012: never had a problem. Yesterday I was editing my video of my last vacations (in California!) and I have updated FCP X, downloading FCP X 10.1.1: then the problem!
Strange is the fact that I've just tried to export a short project, I can see the final product quite well.
What is impossible is playing the clips within Final Cut: they are jumpimg, moving, presenting some frame in green or red ...
Everything all right in iMovie.
I've just checked the RAM: 9GB out of 12 GB is busy, could this be the problem?
Motion is very slow: for 20 sec of project, it takes minutes to play. And once again, if you finalize the projet and export it in Quicktime, you can see it correctly.
I do hope you may suggest something, I'm getting crazy!
Thank you in adavance
Claudio

Core Image Cards for Powermac G4 Dual MDD FW800

Hello there Gentlemen, currently running my Dual G4 with a ATI Pro Radeon 9000. This card does NOT Support Core Image. i need however ADC for
my flat panel from Apple 20". So what are my choices to get a card
that does core image and will drive my Cinema display?
cheers
sir double null

Hey null,
looks like we have close to the same machine. I have the 9000 card in my machine also and recently purchased the ATI 9800 which is supposed to be a great card. Unfortunately, it isn't working for me yet. I don't know if the problem is just my computer or something else. I have an open thread just two below yours:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=264933&tstart=0
Here's the link for graphics cards that support core image..
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301347
I don't see the 9800 listed in this list? But I could have sworn it was on the list a couple months ago, at least the 9800 was in order to run Motion. It's so completely frustrating.
Post back if you get a video card working and what it is.

Mac freezes when using Core Image apps (iMaginator, Lineform-) but-

… not with Apple Core Image apps like iPhoto or Aperture.
The computer freezes and after rebooting and checking the logfile, it says :
Sep 14 20:06:46 PowerMac-G4 kernel[0]: ATIRadeon9700::waitfor_rbspace: Overflowed block waiting for FIFO space. Have 2, need 5. RBBM_STATUS 0x8401c100
I've upgraded my G4 AGP with a Radeon 9800 pro. It seems to be a driver issue or a Core Image bug. After talking with an expert from Strange Dogs, it could be a driver issue concerning especially the G4 AGP and the 9800 pro. Does some one know something about this problem ?
Thank you very much.

Hey, what os version are You using ?
It's possible that it's hard drive but also its possible that is just ram.
Get same software for disk test and check whats the time for accesing data.
Also you might check ram, easest way is to open any file document and just copy any text with cmd+c cmd+v
to the moment the ram would be almoust full then remove all text. if it crashes then it seems that its ram

Is it possible to make a reflection of an image that will change with the image? [was: Reflection]

Is it possible to make a reflection of an image that will change with the image?

normfb wrote:
I believe that a Smart Object will solve your problem.
place your original image in a new file as a smart object and do the same for the reflection (made by Transforming, reducing the opacity and introducing a mild horizontal motion blur) on its own layer, then:
by double clicking on the smart object in the layers panel and returning to the original image, any change you make in the original and save, will automatically update the upright image and its reflection.
Nice one Norm. Five Kudos points to you.

7D Focusing Anomalies With 24-105mm IS Lens

Expert advice will be appreciated, please. My Canon EOS 7D (not MarkII), coupled with my Canon 24-105mm f/4 L IS lens has started misbehaving. The lens is 8-9 years old, the 7D has possibly 50K shutter actuations. Shooting in a relatively dark forest recently, on tripod, using self-timer for release, ISO200, matrix metering, shutter down to ½ second or slower, some use of internal flash, fully-charged battery, using AF Point Expansion for focusing, some of my images (totally hit and miss, random, unpredictable) are not focused properly. About 15-20% of the images show a focus considerably different than where DPP shows (red square) the camera was directed to focus. For example, in many of the incorrect images, DPP shows the red square clearly on a large tree trunk (which agrees with my placement), but the trunk is out of focus and a small maple vine 2-3’closer to the camera than the trunk is sharply focused. This seems to have occurred with IS turned on and off, but I cannot be sure of that (EXIF info does not tell).
To subsequently analyze the problem, I took dozens of images,handheld, with the same camera and lens, but using an appropriate ISO for handholding, and in a brighter outdoor setting (again, matrix metering, AF Point Expansion, IS on, no flash). I found the same situation – hit and miss out of focus conditions, with DPP showing correct AF point placement but the camera/lens again focusing closer than the AF-indicated subject. In some cases, images were totally out of focus. In others, the AF point (red square) was on a subject dozens or hundreds of feet away, and the entire image was out of focus except for some shrubbery 20’away and completely over at the left of the frame (this happened with more than one image). Turning IS off did not really make a difference that I could detect in this handheld test. Changing from AF Point Expansion to Manual Selection (single AF point) resulted in fewer problem images, percentagewise. Overall, the test was producing about the same percentage of incorrectly-focused images as the previous shoot (about 25%).
Changing to an old 35mm camera kit lens (Canon 28-90mm, AF, no IS) resulted in no image problems, whether using Manual Selection or AF Point Expansion. The problem may thus (??) have been narrowed to the use of IS and/or AF Point Expansion and the 24-105 L IS lens, or a combination of those. I was quite pleased and surprised with the quality of the images coming from the non-IS 28-90 kit lens, and its focusing accuracy!
One other factor. During the real shoot, using the 7D on a tripod, shooting with self-timer release (10 second), atg one time and for one exposure the timer stopped beeping and its light extinguished, and the camera just froze up. Powering it down and back up seemed to clear the problem. I do not know whether the lens IS was turned on or off.
Advice would be appreciated. Does this sound like a lens (IS) problem, or a problem with the dual Digic processors in the 7D, a combination of those, or what? Images shot with the 24-105 during this test that are properly focused are very sharp, as they always have been. What further testing would you suggest? This is a "first" for this camera and lens, both of which have been bulletproof until now. Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks, ScottyP. Your response, and that of ebiggs1 (thank you, also) prompted me to do some additional testing with this lens, specifically testing AF Point Expansion versus single AF point (EXIF shows as Manual Selection). ebiggs1 is correct -- I do not think there is anything wrong with this lens or camera (whew!). And, yes, ScottyP, I did take this exact picture before with this lens, using AF Point Expansion and placing the AF point in the same place -- and that image hangs next to my desk as a gorgeous framed 20x30 enlargement.
My testing (fairly extensive, very carefully planned and executed), shows the same (but very infrequent) anomalies as the original images that started this thread, whether using AF Point Expansion or Manual Selection -- both failed on occasion during my testing. But, I have learned from the testing, and that will be valuable in future shooting (still learning after 60+ years of shooting, mostly with Canon). The summary is that this is not a problem to be concerned with -- as I hope is explained below.
This testing appears to validate several things -- all of which are already well known, but provide a good refresher for at least me. First, that "electronic focusing" is excellent but not foolproof. One alternative is to use LiveView and manual focusing when I feel the camera could be fooled by the subject to be focused on (scenics, no movement, tripod). Second, consistently correct focus appears easier to achieve when the subject has sharp, well-defined lines, little detail (not complex or intricate), with adequate contrast and adequate brightness (for example, small Fall leaves, all the same yellow color, and at substantial distance, did not seem to produce the most consistent focusing results compared to larger, simpler, closer subjects). Third, the single AF point may be (believe it or not) too large to achieve the desired result (distant objects, in particular, may be so small within the frame of the single AF point that unwanted subjects may end up being focused on instead of the desired subject) -- the remedy may be to use the even-smaller single-point Spot AF. Fourth, there are a lot of variables in play at once in the making of any one image, and those may or may not be obvious -- the remedy for this, when possible, may be to shoot many images of the same subject, varying whatever technical attributes of the camera or lens are within the photographer's control. For now, and based on this testing, I will give more thought, when the situation allows, to which AF area to use, and how to use it (placement, size, appropriate subject, etc.). Of course, not much of this applies to my normal subjects -- waterfowl exploding off of a body of water. Thanks again for the ideas.

Can't Find Core Image on Computer

I have installed Developer on my harddrive, gone to applications and find Core Audio and Core Foundation but I can't find Core Image at all. I'm wanting to experiment with it's editing features on digital images.
I have Tiger 10.4.6 and I assume I had the correct version of Developer Tools.
Need some advice.
Bill

Core Image is part of Quartz. It's a collection of programming APIs, not a separate application.
However, my Dev Tools installation includes a pre-built sample app called "Core Image Fun House" found in "Developer -> Applications -> Graphics Tools". There area also several Core Image example programs found in "Developer -> Examples -> Quartz -> Core Image".
If you're interested in examining the Core Image header files they can be found in "System -> Library -> Frameworks -> QuartzCore.framework -> Headers".
You might also want to experiment with "Quartz Composer" (also found in "Developer -> Applications -> Graphics Tools".
Reference documentation for all this stuff should have been installed with your copy of Xcode Tools (current version is 2.3).
Steve

What is a "Core Image-capable video card" ?

Roxio Toast 10 Titanium Pro recommends in its System requirements that a core image-capable video card be used. I don’t know what this means, nor do I know whether my iMac has this video card.
I checked the System Profiler for my aging 2005 iMacG5 PPC and under Hardware / Graphics/Displays, my iMac has an ATI Radeon X600 XT. Under the Displays description, there is a “Core Image: Hardware Accelerated” feature. I don’t know how important the recommended video card is, nor whether my existing card would meet Roxio’s recommended system requirements.
I picked the Final Cut Express HD Forum to post this question; if there is a better Forum, please advise.
I want to purchase this Roxio software so that I can burn Blu-Ray discs of 1080i video footage downloaded from my Canon Vixia HV30 into Final Cut Express 3.5. After video editing in FCE, I want to export into Toast 10 because iDVD will not produce hi-def DVD’s.
I’m sure there are some experts out there who know whether my video card is sufficient for what I want to do, and may have other comments/suggestions about my hardware and its ability to work with Toast 10 and meet Blu-Ray objectives.
Thanks in Advance
BoBo

Alchroma,
Thank You for responding to my question; that was a very good reference.
I think I'll be OK with my old iMacG5PPC to handle the requirements of Toast 10 BluRay.
BoBo

Dual G4, MDD: Cheapest Core Image graphics card?

I have read some of the comments about graphics cards on various threads, but what I'm after is the cheapest card which supports Core Image and will run on my dual G4 MDD.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
William

William Donelson wrote:
Thanks, Allen.
Is that really the cheapest at $180 ?
Well that's the cheapest card retail card currently available on the market. The other retail card available is the ATI Radeon 9800.
If you don't go retail, then your choices divide basically between:
1. OEM Apple cards that can work unmodified in an MDD
2. OEM Apple cards that can be modified to work
3. Flashed/modified PC cards
I'll take them in turn.
*1. OEM Apple cards that can work unmodified in an MDD*
I think the only OEM card that supports Core Image specifically designed for the MDD is BTO (build-to-order) ATI Radeon 9700. It wasn't available for long as an option, is rare, and is pretty price.
*2. OEM Apple cards that can be modified to work*
These are typically 8x AGP cards for the G5 that can be modified fairly easily (if you don't need to drive an ADC monitor) to work in the MDD. The cards I've seen people try this with are the ATI 96x0 OEM Apple cards: 9600 Pro, 9600 XT. I think the 9650 may work as well, but I haven't read anything.
The modification to work (without ADC power) can be done easily with tape. See here. The ADC port works (provide video signal) with DVI and VGA monitors (with the appropriate inpensive adapters). It's just that to use the ADC port with an ADC monitor (to supply) power the modification is more involved -- see the above linked page.
For awhile OWC sold the 9600 Pro pre-modified. That used to be the cheapest route to Core Image with an OEM Apple card. I use an 9600 Pro, but didn't get it from OWC.
You can at times find these OEM 96x0 on eBAY both modified and unmodified for an MDD. If you want an OEM card make sure it's OEM -- they have DVI plus ADC, with the ADC being the dead-giveaway.
*3. Flashed/modified PC cards*
Some people do this themselves, some people do it and sell them eBay. Some sellers are better than others, some cards are better than others. Some modify the cards with bigger ROM chips because the Apple ROM are typically bigger than the typical PC cards. If they don't swap the chip, they may be using a hacked smaller ROM.
For Cubes, this route sometimes is the easiest, and coolest way to go.

Focus blur with Core image

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