Foxtel iQ Remote Record

Foxtel Remote Record allows you to send recording requests directly to your Foxtel iQ set-top unit. From the Online Guide (when viewing on your computer), you can 'drag and drop' programs from the Online Guide's grid view into the Remote Record panel then click on 'Record'. No matter where you are, if you have internet access, you can log onto the Foxtel Online Guide and set the Foxtel iQ to record your favourite shows.
To use Remote Record you'll need to be logged into your My Foxtel Online Account and have your Foxtel from Telstra account linked. If you don't already have a Foxtel Online ID, visit Foxtel's website to sign up. You'll need to provide the number from the Foxtel access card located in your Foxtel iQ set-top box, so we recommend signing up at home.
Use Foxtel iQ Remote Record on your mobile
Step 1
On your compatible Telstra mobile, access your main menu, then select My Place, then select Foxtel, then select TV Guide
If you have a Windows Phone® 7 device, press the Start button, then tap the Foxtel tile. You will be guided to download the Foxtel TV Guide from the Windows Phone® Marketplace. If you don't have a My Place option on your mobile, open your mobile phone's internet browser to access BigPond Mobile. This can usually be done by pressing the BigPond button on your mobile. When BigPond Mobile has loaded, select Mobile Foxtel, then select TV Guide at Home.
Step 2
Select the show you wish to record, and then select Record on my iQ. You will then be prompted to enter your Foxtel Web ID details
Use Foxtel Remote Record with the Foxtel online TV guide
Step 1
If you haven't already done so, register with the Foxtel online TV guide. You'll need your Foxtel smartcard number
Step 2
On the online TV guide, click the programs you'd like to record, and select Add to Remote Record
Step 3
Repeat this process until you've selected all the programs you'd like to record
Step 4
Click Record. This will send a message to your Foxtel iQ or iQHD set-top unit to set the recordings
Common causes of Foxtel iQ Remote Record problems
The storage in your Foxtel iQ box at home is full. You can delete older programs you no longer require to free up some space.
The Foxtel iQ box was not powered on or in standby mode when the program started.
The Foxtel iQ box already was already recording two programs at the same time (three programs for Foxtel iQHD boxes).
The Foxtel iQ recording was cancelled by someone using the Foxtel iQ box at home.
In extreme circumstances, there may be a problem sending your recording request to your Foxtel iQ box.

It doesn't address what I needed help with
i tried recording a show and an error code came up HO-UNP just before that, we were watching a show on foxtel and it turned off automatically and would not respond to control, we reset the box like i was told to do when troubleshooting and now it wont record. we have had to reset it a few times after the lines problem at wooloongaba that affected a big area. thank you for your time! Oh and the phone line is crackly too and i cant use my house phone, havent been able to for a while! Thank you!!

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    Step 1
    Open your mobile phone's main menu, then select My Place, then select Foxtel.
    Step 2
    If you don't have a My Place option on your mobile, open your mobile phone's internet browser to access BigPond Mobile. This can usually be done by pressing the BigPond button on your mobile.
    Step 3
    Select Mobile Foxtel, then select TV Guide at Home. The TV guide displays programs for Sydney by default. You can sign up for a Foxtel Web ID to view programs for your region, and optionally set up Foxtel iQ Remote Record.
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    Re: Foxtel from Telstra TV Guide on mobile
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  • Foxtel iQ3 - Video Help Guides for Recording

    Got iQ3? Need some help with the multitude of new features? This video guide should help answer all your questions!
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    2. How to remote record a show when you are away from home
    3. How to record a full season with Series Link

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    You know that eveybody starts with zero tries, so:
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    Then everytime they try and answer they have attempted it one
    more time. So inside the onRelease function.
    numAttempts++;
    If it is right you don't care so inside the first part of the
    if you don't need anything. But if they didn't get it right then
    you need to check how many times. So put something inside the else
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    trace("You've tried too many times. Let me help you.")
    } else {
    trace("Incorrect answer, please try again.");
    Oh, I didn't mention maxTries. Generally I find that things
    like this get changed at the last minute, so it is easier to define
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  • Everything you need to know about Foxtel Go

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    Once in the app go to the settings icon and choose 'manage my devices'. Within this section of the app you will be able to select de-register for the device you wish to change. To register, download the Foxtel Go app and log in. You will be prompted to register the device.
    Remember you can only change one device once per calendar month. If you are still able to make a change, you will be advised of the number of device registrations left this month.
    If you recently registered your T-Box, you should have access to Foxtel Go within 1 hour. If you are experiencing errors please try closing the Foxtel Go App and logging in again. If you are still unable to access any content please contact us via Telstra 24x7 or Telstra Technical Support on 13 22 00
    If you swap your Foxtel on T-Box service to a new device, your Foxtel Go service is not affected as it is associated to your BigPond username and password, and not the T-Box device.
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    Choose which classifications you'd like to restrict
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    Re: Everything you need to know about Foxtel Go
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  • Sync Issues When a Separate Recorder is Used?

    Unfortunately, I do not know the author of this material, and first saw it in another post to the Adobe forum. If the author sees this, please step up to take credit for a well-written explanation of why Audio is OOS with footage, when one has used a separate recorder, that is not hard-wired into the camera and deriving the sync signals from it. I must emphasize that I did not write this piece, and am only posting it to help others, when they use a separate recorder, not tied to the camera, say a Zoom, or similar.
    I have also not used the mentioned/linked program, so cannot comment on that. However, I would make one change, if possible, and that would be to use PCM/WAV and not the recommended Linear WAV, as some Adobe programs can have issues with Linear WAV. Other than that little suggestion, I really like this piece, and for many other NLE's, the Linear WAV will probably not be an issue - just with some Adobe programs.
    The Problem -
    Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
    These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
    Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
    The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
    60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
    This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
    The Solution
    It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
    This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
    A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
    Programs required (all free):
    1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
    2) Audacity , a free audio editor
    3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
    Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
    Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
    Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
    At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
    Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to yourcomputer.
    Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
    Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
    It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
    This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
    Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
    Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using thestart of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
    Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
    Record this figure. It is the reference file length
    Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
    Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
    Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
    Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
    Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
    It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
    You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.

    Unfortunately, I do not know the author of this material, and first saw it in another post to the Adobe forum. If the author sees this, please step up to take credit for a well-written explanation of why Audio is OOS with footage, when one has used a separate recorder, that is not hard-wired into the camera and deriving the sync signals from it. I must emphasize that I did not write this piece, and am only posting it to help others, when they use a separate recorder, not tied to the camera, say a Zoom, or similar.
    I have also not used the mentioned/linked program, so cannot comment on that. However, I would make one change, if possible, and that would be to use PCM/WAV and not the recommended Linear WAV, as some Adobe programs can have issues with Linear WAV. Other than that little suggestion, I really like this piece, and for many other NLE's, the Linear WAV will probably not be an issue - just with some Adobe programs.
    The Problem -
    Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
    These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
    Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
    The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
    60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
    This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
    The Solution
    It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
    This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
    A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
    Programs required (all free):
    1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
    2) Audacity , a free audio editor
    3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
    Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
    Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
    Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
    At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
    Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to yourcomputer.
    Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
    Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
    It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
    This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
    Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
    Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using thestart of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
    Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
    Record this figure. It is the reference file length
    Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
    Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
    Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
    Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
    Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
    It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
    You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.

  • How do I sync a audio recording with video?

    Hi,
    I recorded a concert using my DSLR and a separate sound recorder. What is the easiest way to sync these two up in PE10? I had hoped that at the least I could compare the wave files of both the original recording on the camera with the separate recording. But PE10 only shows the wave file of the recording from the camera. The wav file from the recorder is just shown as a green bar. Any ideas?
    cheers
    bill

    First, what is the file format, and its specs. for the remote recorder?
    Though the rates of modern cameras and digital recorders SHOULD match 100%, in the real-world, they seldom do. This make perfect syncing a labor intensive process.
    One should do tests between the cameras and the recorders, to find out the % or error. Then, adjust their Audio to match first. As an example, one user in the PrPro Forum tested his Panasonic cameras, and his Zoom recorders, and found that the Zooms were off by 0.04% constantly. To correct this, he used the Time Remapping (with Maintain Pitch checked), and would apply that adjustment to all of the Zooms' files - perfect sync.
    As for the Waveform not displaying for your remote recorder, did you allow those files to completely Conform (creation of the CFA and PEK files, the latter is the Waveform Display)? See this article: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/726693?tstart=30
    Also, you should be able to increase the vertical zoom of your Audio Tracks, and hence any Clips on them, by hovering the Cursor over the junction between Tracks, in the Track Header, and when it turns into a = sign, with up/down arrows, click+drag. Then, you should be able to find commonality in the beginning, to sync up to. Tip: for this critical work, toggle the Snap feature OFF, with the S key.
    Good luck,
    Hunt

  • Ridiculously Awesome Sound Recording with Video

    Although I was aware that the mic's on the 928 were touted to be better at recording loud music than most other phones out there, I never had a chance to put it to the test.
    Last week I was at a small bar and recorded my friends band playing. I was really close to the speakers and they were fairly loud.  I made sure to turn off the sound filter in the recording setting of the video.  Just for comparison, I had my brother record with me on his Razr Maxx. The next morning I played the video back from my phone and plugged in some good earphones.
    OMG! No distortion at all!!!  Full clean bass!!!  Full mids and highs!!!  Crisp and Clear!  My brothers sound on his recording was a huge distorted mess! Anyone else have similar experiences?  TI wanna make sure this wasnt just some freak luck with video recording...

    First, what is the file format, and its specs. for the remote recorder?
    Though the rates of modern cameras and digital recorders SHOULD match 100%, in the real-world, they seldom do. This make perfect syncing a labor intensive process.
    One should do tests between the cameras and the recorders, to find out the % or error. Then, adjust their Audio to match first. As an example, one user in the PrPro Forum tested his Panasonic cameras, and his Zoom recorders, and found that the Zooms were off by 0.04% constantly. To correct this, he used the Time Remapping (with Maintain Pitch checked), and would apply that adjustment to all of the Zooms' files - perfect sync.
    As for the Waveform not displaying for your remote recorder, did you allow those files to completely Conform (creation of the CFA and PEK files, the latter is the Waveform Display)? See this article: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/726693?tstart=30
    Also, you should be able to increase the vertical zoom of your Audio Tracks, and hence any Clips on them, by hovering the Cursor over the junction between Tracks, in the Track Header, and when it turns into a = sign, with up/down arrows, click+drag. Then, you should be able to find commonality in the beginning, to sync up to. Tip: for this critical work, toggle the Snap feature OFF, with the S key.
    Good luck,
    Hunt

  • DDTS-100 Remote Control Replacement / Codes

    I have the DDTS-100 I use it for everything in my home theater, I know maybe it isnt a real amp/reciever, but it does what i need.
    The remote however is a piece of crap, small buttons, and very unresponsive even with new batteries. Is there a way to program a different remote, or a known replacement add on remote? All i want the remote to do is mute, volume, and input. It is annoying to be 5 feet away and have to press mute 25 times for it to respond.
    Ideally I could combine it with my DVRs remote, one less remote needed.

    AMRivlin,
    Unfortunately, the codes used in most universal remote controls are made specificly to each different remote brand. The code number programmed into the remotes are not something the individual component manufacturers determine.
    In your case, my best suggestion would be to pick up one of the "learning" remotes. With that, you enter the programming mode on the remote, aim the two remotes at each other, and the "learning" remote records and stores the IR signal being sent by the original. While this is a bit time consuming, it is the best and only way that I am aware of at this time.
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  • Android Remote App

    As most users may know, the remote recording app for Youview has been available for iphones for some time now, but the recent press release mentions that android users could be seeing this for their devices during June
    quote from this link
    YouView says that the app will work on Android devices running 2.3 Gingerbread and above and has been optimised for the Samsung Galaxy S2, Galaxy S3 and Galaxy Ace as well as the HTC One S and the LG-made Google Nexus 4

    TurkeyHunter wrote:
    I recently downloaded the Android remote control app for my HTC phone.  Everything except the volume control works fine.  When I try and control the volume, it only brings up the display for the DVR volume, not the TV volume and it doesn't do anything when I change it.  I have to pick up the remote that came with the DVR to change it.  Apparently the DVR remote has the TV code programmed in.  Does anyone know if there is a fix for this issue?
    The Andorid app actually controls the volume for the STB, not the TV itself, but by controlling the STB volume (if the audion soung option is set properly) you can control the TV sound.  Apparently you have the Volume Control setting set to "Fixed" not "Variable" in the STB Main Menu --> Settings --> Audio --> Volume Control option.  With the Variable setting the Android app controls the sound level for me.

  • Fix out of syn - not a question- is a reference to "how to"

    Hi,
    I found this article on the internet and thought it might be useful for people in certain conditions...thought I'd share it..
    Unfortunately I did not get the author's name ....as I'd love to give the author credit for it...
    The Problem -
    Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
    These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
    Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
    The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
    60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
    This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
    The Solution
    It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
    This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
    A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
    Programs required (all free):
    1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
    2) Audacity , a free audio editor
    3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
    Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
    Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
    Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
    At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
    Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to your computer.
    Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
    Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
    It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
    This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
    Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
    Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using the start of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
    Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
    Record this figure. It is the reference file length
    Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
    Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
    Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
    Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
    Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
    It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
    You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.
    Rod

    yikes...misspelled "sync"...can a moderator fix it maybe and delete this mssg ?  Thanks !
    Rod

  • Field 'record_EMP_ID' doesn't have a default value

    I solved org.hibernate.TransientObjectException by adding "@OneToMany(fetch=FetchType.EAGER, cascade=CascadeType.ALL)"
    But this time values can't be inserted to DB.
    OS : Windows 7
    JDK : JDK 1.6
    JBoss : JBoss 5.1.0.GA
    DB : MySQL 5.5
    Error is "Field 'record_EMP_ID' doesn't have a default value"
    - Members.java
    @Entity
    @Table(name = "family")
    public class Members implements Serializable {
    @Id
    @Column(name = "EMP_ID")
    private String id ;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Passwd")
    private String passwd ;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Name")
    private String name ;
    @OneToMany(fetch=FetchType.EAGER, cascade=CascadeType.ALL)
    @JoinTable(name="info", joinColumns = {@JoinColumn(name = "EMP_Name")})
    private Collection<Records> record = new ArrayList();
    ....getter and setter
    - Records.java
    @Entity
    @Table(name = "info")
    public class Records implements Serializable {
    @Id
    @GeneratedValue(strategy=GenerationType.AUTO)
    @Column(name = "EMP_ID")
    private int i;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Name")
    private String name;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Bank_Account")
    private String account;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Hobby")
    private String hobby;
    @Column(name = "EMP_Phone")
    private int phone;
    ...getter and setter method
    in jsp file I invoke EntityManager.persist
    Context ctx = new InitialContext();
    IMappingTestPort port = (IMappingTestPort) ctx.lookup("MappingTestBean/remote");
    Records r = new Records();
    r.setName("aaa");
    r.setAccount("111-2222");
    r.setHobby("bbb");
    r.setPhone(021112222);
    Members m = new Members();
    m.setId("aupres");
    m.setPasswd("aaa");
    m.setName("ccc");
    m.getRecord().add(r);
    port.setFamilyMember(m); // This EntityManager.persist method
    But it failed.
    In console
    20:21:29,233 INFO [STDOUT] Hibernate: insert into family (EMP_Name, EMP_Passwd, EMP_ID) values (?, ?, ?)
    20:21:29,268 INFO [STDOUT] Hibernate: insert into info (EMP_Bank_Account, EMP_Hobby, EMP_Name, EMP_Phone) values (?, ?, ?, ?)
    20:21:29,288 WARN [JDBCExceptionReporter] SQL Error: 1364, SQLState: HY000
    20:21:29,288 ERROR [JDBCExceptionReporter] Field 'record_EMP_ID' doesn't have a default value
    record_EMP_ID is automatically generated by hibernate
    Pls help!

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  • N900 Software support is shockingly bad!!!

    Nokia. Why release a phone with no/very little software support? It's been about 4 months since the release and it's still not much better!!!
    I replaced my Iphone with the N900 because it's meant to be an Iphone beater, but the truth is looking sadly the opposite.
    Nokia Map loader is not working and the PC Suite has bugs and it's complicated having to switch between PC Suite mode and Mass Storage mode. What's happened to my free Navigation?
    Come on Nokia this is embarrasing, I absolutely love this phone and I want to recommed it to my friends, but with the software situation that's not a possibility.

    N900 Personal Review
    Hi all, I would like to make some comments about the New Nokia N900.
    Shortly the phone SUCKS!
    I have been a Nokia user for about 10 years, and for the past 3 I have been using the NSeries, I started 3 years ago with the N95, then moved’ on to the N96 an now as you can see I have had the chance to use the N900 even though my original plan was the N97. The reason for this is that I contacted my provider (T-Mobile UK) as I was due an upgrade, and was told that they didn’t do this handset directly, but I could get this phone if I did the upgrade though Carphone Warehouse (Don’t even get me started on them) any way I contacted Carphone Warehouse and told them that I was due an upgrade and wanted the N97, the idiot on the phone started telling me that the N900 was much better and that it was faster and all. I told him I would have a look into it my self, at least to read some comparisons online. After having read the comparison on several sites, on “paper” the N900 sounded much better, faster processor (N97 is about 400Mhz, N900 is about 600Mhz), more RAM, the use of a Linux based OS and so on, sounded great, I accepted the upgrade with 14 days exchange if not happy.
    Well I have used the phone for about 3 days, and let me tell you what I think…
    The device is not as fast as people say, you would not think that there is about 200Mhz speed difference between them and that the N900 has double of the RAM then the N97. Yes it does allow you to open several tasks at once, but the CPU drain off more demanding applications is definitely noticeable, for example when running a YouTube page in the background with a video playing and opening other apps, the music temporarily stops just like the N95/N96 did/do.
    The fact that it’s a new mobile technology makes it also not very popular right now and there is lack of application unlike the Symbian OS used by the N97, even Nokia them self are not up to speed, the OVI map on the N900 is version 1 point something and is really useless, unlike version 3.03 (3.04 BETA out too) of the N97 (don’t forget that I am using the N97 as a Symbian comparison).
    The firmware upgrade is very complex for general users, this includes having to use a Flashing Tool and command lines, I had some issues at the beginning and I am an IT technician. The NSU (Nokia Software Update) didn’t detect the new version available even though the phone was delivered with version 1.x and the version available was 3.2x.
    Even the phone “Hard Reset” is complicated, once again you have to use the Flashing Tool and download an other file called EMMC that should technically erase the 32GB memory, but be were, after having used this file my contact were still there and some other information were there too such as my OVI e-mail account and my SKYPE account details, there was also a file from the sketch software that had not been deleted and had to do so manually.
    Talking about SKYPE, many sites when comparing N97 to N900 state that the N900 has SKYPE and some other software unlike the N97, well I use to use SKYPE on the N95, it may not be inbuilt but no one says you can’t download it, I use to have SKYPE Lite with many more features then the “messaging” SKYPE inbuilt in the N900. I also use to have 3 different versions of Opera, Windows Live messenger, the IPlayer application, an application provided by SKY TV to control TV listing and Remote Recording, Google Map, Google YouTube application and much, much more, most probably you wont find half of those for the N900, but you don’t see anyone stating that anywhere.
    The N900 also lack the option to create folder to organize your applications, any application is “plonked” with the rest in a random order and there is nothing you can do about it, apart from creating a short-cut on one of the 4 useless screens and try to organize it that way.
    It also seem to lack the use of the SIM contact option, all you can do is copy from the SIM but not use the SIM storage, now my SIM allows me to store 200 contacts, this would A) save memory on the phone, and B) be used as a back-up of the numbers. I normally use it as B, I back-up the numbers on the SIM (apart from the PC) because the SIM does not die as easy as the phone, lets say (and this has happened to me before with the N96) that the phone drops in the bath, the phone would most probably short and die, but if you had the numbers on the SIM you can move to a back-up phone no problem, same as if you drop the phone and it brakes.
    An other issues I had with the N900 is that when you create short-cuts on one of the 4 desktop, you cant align the items, so you may have one up, one down and so on, you would think that they would have a snap to grid or something, but no such thing.
    The battery is worse then any phone I have seen, I have lost a “line” while playing only 2 YouTube videos over 3G network hardly anything else running, now the videos were about 3 to 5 minutes each so lets say I lost a battery “line” in 10 minutes, I guess with-in 1 hour your battery would be flat.
    The battery charger is not a standard Nokia one (pin) but it uses the same socked of the USB cable, maybe they run out of money while designing, who knows, the only good thing about the charging is that you can charge it while connecting to the PC via USB.
    The keyboard misses the mouse pad that we have on the N97, and even thought the device supports on-screen keyboard too, I have noticed that many of the application only support the normal slide-out keyboard, application such as the OVI map (while using the search address option).
    The messaging options are very limited too, IM and SMS is all included in an option called conversations located in the main menu, as far as I have seen you are also not able to select multi items when trying to delete them, and this does not only happened in the “conversations” section, I had to delete all the inbuilt songs 1 by 1 and several other files 1 by 1.
    The camera options are very limited too, and the picture quality is very poor as far as I can see, I have taken better pictures with the N95 2 years ago.
    There seem to also be a limitation when trying to edit website short-cuts name on the desktop, the name is basically what ever the site owners use as a title for the site, for example YouTube uses “YouTube – Broadcast Yourself” and that’s what the phone seems to use as a desktop short-cut title.
    The 3G seem to also run slower on this device, web-page loading time between this phone and the N95 seems to be slower more then faster.
    And this is what I have discovered in 2 and a half days of using the phone, I don’t even want to imagine how dissatisfied I would have to be if I had to keep this phone for 12/18/24 months, luckily I have the 14 days to exchange and will contact Carphone Warehouse in the morning to arrange an exchange for the N97, I have already taken my SIM card out and placed it in a spare N95 I have at home, that’s how quick I want to get away from the device.
    My general advice would be to stay away from this phone and technology at least for now, and not to always believe what is stated by device specs on “paper” as sometimes it’s not all as expected.
    This phone reminds me of a scene from the film “Bad Boys 2” when Will Smith is driving the black Porsche with Martin Lawrence.
    Marcus Burnett (Martin Lawrence): You mean, y'all paid, what, $80,000 for this car and you ain't got no damn cup holder?!
    Mike Lowrey (Will Smith): It's $105,000 and this happens to be one of the fastest production cars on the planet. Zero to sixty in four seconds, sweetie. Limited edition.
    Marcus Burnett (Martin Lawrence): You damn right it's limited! No cup holder, no back seat. Just a shiny **bleep** with two chairs in it. I guess we the balls just draggin' the **bleep** along.

  • RDS 2012 R2 - RemoteApp Disconnected

    Hi RDS 2012 R2 Experts,
    I would like some guidance here if possible
    My setup is a follow.
    1x 2012r2 with the following role, Broker, Web access, Gateway and License called RDS01
    2x 2012r2 Session Host called RSH01 an RSH02
    1x wildcard cert
    I would like to my users to be able to either internal and external to use the same link, remote.mydomain.com since my internal domain is mydomain.local
    What i have done so far.
    Created a DNS Zone called remote.mydomain.com and added the following records there.
    REMOTE, it points to web access server IP 192.168.1.31 ( same server for Gateway and Broker )
    2x RDSFarm, one record points to RSH01 and the other to RSH02, 192.168.1.32 and 33
    Gateway, the record points to 192.168.1.31 ( same servers as broker and web access)
    Broker, the record points to 192.168.1.31 ( same servers as web access and gateway)
    i have set the gateway manager the following
    Edited the deployment RD Gateway to remote.mydomain.com
    Installed the wildcert for all the roles, *.mydomain.com in all 4 roles
    created Manage Local computer groups and added both RSH01 and 02, RDSFarm record, remote record, gateway record and broker record
    linked the allowed resources with the policy and users ( also tried allow users to connect to any resources )
    configure the gateway in the RD Gateway farm
    Configured the IIS to
    auto redirect
    and the DefaultTSGAteway under Pages to remote.mydomain.com
    Also I used the Set-PublishName (http://gallery.technet.microsoft.com/Change-published-FQDN-for-2a029b80) to change it to broker.mydomain.com
    Now, the issue I have is, when users either internally or externally try to launch a RemoteApp they get the error.
    RemoteApp Disconnected
    This computer cant connect to the remote computer.
    Try connecting again.
    To overcome this error I did the following:
    Set-PublishName to RDSFarm.mydomain.com ( it is using the round robin to get to the session host servers)
    There is two problem with this setup.
    I no longer can shadow the users under Connections in the broker ( it seems to be bypassed )
    I get certificate mismatch due the servers names
    What I would like to achieve is to fix both problems above.
    Thanks for any advice in advance.
    N0tl3_Bouya

    Hi,
    Thank you for posting in Windows Server Forum.
    Initially check that you have applied external used FQDN of server under Server name in RD Gateway Deployment properties and used Bypass RD Gateway for local address. 
    Please try to perform the steps 
    •  Create a new DNS zone, .COM to allow split-brain DNS (so that internal clients can resolve external names internally)
    •  Create a relevant DNS entry in the aforementioned zone to point to the RDS environment’s internal IP address
    •  Create a relevant DNS entry in external DNS to point to the firewall which is publishing RDS’s external IP address
    •  Use the following script to change the FQDN of the RDP files provided by RD Web Access / RemoteApp and Desktop connection feed 
    Change published FQDN for Server 2012 or 2012 R2 RDS Deployment
    http://gallery.technet.microsoft.com/Change-published-FQDN-for-2a029b80
    In addition, for shadow related issue you can use the server in administrative mode use mstsc /shadow command and check the result. 
    Detailed walkthrough on Remote Control (Shadowing), reintroduced in Windows Server 2012 R2  
    Hope it helps!
    Thanks.
    Dharmesh Solanki

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