Fraser/Schewe RWCR Book - Sharpening Question

Real World ACR > Great book, good explanations. Compiling questions as I read and re-read. Need sharpening workflow guidance. Let's say I am working on an NEF file that ultimately I want to upsample or crop/upsample in Photoshop. Should I sharpen both in the ACR image detail adjustment phase and then do an USM in photoshop again when I am ready to save my final edit? What effect does upsampling in Photoshop have on image adjustments done in ACR?
MacBook Pro, OS 10.4.11, Nikon D300 NEFs, ACR 4.3, PS-CS3

>Pretty sure sharpening is done before the down sample in Camera Raw in the pipeline and the down sample is a Lanczos algorithm (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanczos_algorithm for geek explanation) which has a "degree" of sharpening in it.
Jeff,
Your Wikipedia link is indeed very geeky--It talks about recovering
Eigenvalues, but doesn't even mention resampling. Perhaps this link is more appropriate
Lanczos Resampling.
I have no idea whether ACR sharpens before or after resampling, but to sharpen before resampling seems counterintuitive, since it is often advised to sharpen after resampling to offset the loss of sharpness occasioned by the resampling. With significant downsampling the sharpening halos would be resampled out of existence. Perhaps the Lanczos algorithm obviates these concerns.

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Book printing turnaround time(Canada) and general sharpening question

Hi,
I am nearly finished a book in Aperture and have a couple of questions, one specific to Canada and another, more general question.
For those in Canada(or anybody else's experiences), how long does it take for the book to be published and sent out to you? My book project is to be a christmas gift and I would like to order one copy to proof, but if the turnaround is really long, then I would just order all the copies I need and hope everything turns out satisfactory.
The second concerns sharpening. Since the images are resized for the individual use on a page, how do you optimize the sharpening? Is it better to oversharpen, or resize and sharpen each image prior to placing in the book?
Thanks for any and all help. This is a first book so any other comments or suggestions would be appreciated!
Scott

Perhaps I can help with the first question. I tried the same approach and was quite happy with the first book quality; however, when I ordered several of the same book a few weeks later, I was very unhappy with the color casts and how they differed from the original book I had printed. The moral of the story is that the print quality is highly variable between printings.
Aves

Jeff Schewe - More capture sharpening examples?

Jeff,
I confess to being a bit frustrated at how difficult it is proving to be to learn how to apply optimal capture sharpening (source+content) in ACR (v. 4.4.1). Yes, I have studied Bruces sharpening book and the CS3 version of Real World Camera Raw. My goal is to decide on good settings for capture sharpening based on (1) image type and (2) my capture size and then create presets that I can use to apply that sharpening.
One thing that I believe would speed up my learning is if I could study examples of DNG files with proper capture sharpening applied according to the approach Bruce and you have written about. Recently I downloaded the example files from the RWCR website only to be disappointed to discover that just 4 of the 10 images seem to have capture sharpening applied.
Is there any possibility you would be willing to post additional DNG files with capture sharpening to help those of us that are trying to learn how to apply optimal capture sharpening in ACR but remain in a bit of a fog as to how to achieve that worthy goal? (I shoot mostly nature and will be expanding to sports and portraits.)
I did read this long thread from 2007 where Mike posted a couple of raws. http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.3c0347de/111
You responded with your choice for sharpening settings and that was very informative. Im sure a few more examples would greatly help me and, I suspect, many others. If you are not inclined to do so, thats fine - no hard feelings. Just thought I would ask.
And to all others - I surely do not intend to be ignoring your wisdom and would value your advice also. I am making a special request to Jeff since I am trying to master the methods that he has been promoting.
In particular, I am trying to get a better understanding of the radius setting in the context of capture sharpening in ACR.
1. For a given camera model, does the optimum radius setting in ACR depend only on whether the image is classified as have a low, medium or high frequency of edges? Or does the optimum radius setting also depend on the settings for detail, masking and/or possibly other items such as clarity, contrast, noise suppression, etc?
2. My present camera produces raws that average about 6MB. I plan to buy a canon 450D/XSi and I understand those raws will average around 15MB. When I am processing those larger files should I expect the optimal radius settings in ACR for low/medium/high frequency images to go up, go down, or stay the same as compared to processing my 6MB files?
3. For a given camera model, how do I go about determining the optimal ACR radius setting for low-, medium-, and high-frequency images? Is there some testing I can perform to help me zero in on this?
4. One message I got from Bruces sharpening book (p.108-113) is that in terms of content sharpening, once the optimum radius is set then there will be basically one setting for amount that will yield the best result. Do you find this rule to still be true when doing capture sharpening in ACR? In particular, I am wondering whether the existence of the detail slider has changed this rule.
My grateful thanks for any insights.

> My goal is to decide on good settings for capture sharpening based on (1) image type and (2) my capture size and then create presets that I can use to apply that sharpening.
The goal is to make the image look good (no over/under sharpening) when at 100% zoom.
The settings will generally follow the basic use of higher radius for lower frequency image and lower radius for higher frequency. Thus portraits would have high radius; 1.2-1.5 and landscape images .8-.5 with the amounts set to "look good" when combined with Detail and Edge Mask.
BTW, image VB7J4404 was the only image specifically included in the RWCR downloads for showing sharpening...Martin Evening's image was not made available on purpose (because it's a model shot and it's by Martin who didn't wish to allow a raw file to be downloaded).

ICloud to Mac Address Book - Two Questions

Okay, I have learned/accepted that iCloud is not the sync'ing deal that MobileMe was (missed that in the fine print as I have been a loyal .mac user from its inception and like the MM syncing). I understand that everything is updated in the cloud and pushed to various devices (for me, iPhone 4S, new iPad and 2009 MBP). So, how is it possible for my iCloud address book to have more contacts than my MBP address book? Wouldn't all of the ones in iCloud be pushed to the MBP? The only thing I can think is that before I understood the concept that there are two address books resident on the MBP, I starting deleting what I thought were duplicates since I wasn't able to merge them due to two different sources. I could not find a way at that time to tell me which line was from what source. Then, once I get the two address books matching - mostly to ensure that I am not missing anything in the iCloud one - what purpose does the Mac based address book serve? I just had a nightmare of dragging various cards from my iCloud address page on the right into the iCloud group on the left and only to realize after doing at least 20 cards that after the first one, the left page registers back up putting the Mac based group across from the iCloud contact list so I dropped many of them into the Mac group instead of the iCloud group. The iCal doesn't maintain a Mac version and an iCloud version, why does the address book? BTW, all software on all devices is up to date as of this posting.

Please pardon what may be a silly question. This is my first ever post...
I was thinking about deleting "On My Mac" address book per your above instructions, and sticking with the one iCloud contacts. The problem I am afraid of running into is this: In iTunes, when I sync contacts, the groups that show available for syncing all come from "On My Mac". If I delete from the Mac, will that make my "Contacts" icon on my iPad 'dead'? Thereby, forcing me to log onto iCloud to view my Contacts, instead of a handy shortcut???
Or will I simply get to forgo the iTunes syncing... and the "contacts" icon on my iPad will reflect what was synced thru iCloud?
If the latter is true, does that simply mean I will need to recreate my "groups" in iCloud?
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Book layout question due to lack of functionality in InDesign

I am a doctoral student (cancer cell biology) starting to write my dissertation (in Word 2007) and I'm using InDesign CS3 (5.0.4) for the layout (I refuse to layout figures and tables in Word... tried it... giant pain in the a$$). My original plan was to create a Book in InDesign and have each chapter be a separate file. Due to the bibliography software I need to use the Word file has to be a single file (see this thread for details). InDesign cannot just Place a range of pages (it's seems to be all or nothing) and this creates a problem (see the previous thread).
The question I have, is it smart to break each chapter out into a separate file? My thinking was that since I would be bringing in a fair number Photoshop and Illustrator files into each chapter it would be wise to keep the file size down (I'm not doing this on the best of computers, at least by graphic designer standards) and it would make rearranging a little easier (my mentor has a habit of changing his mind and chapter 3 could easily switch places with chapter 7).
This is my first book so any thoughts or advice you have would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Adrian.

Nah, it's just me. My mentor wants paper output for the markup, the committee will take a PDF or paper and the university has (thankfully) instituted an electronic submission criteria. The final product has to be a PDF to the school and I'll have some output to paper and bound for my mentor, my family (as a gift) and myself.
The two students before me did everything in Word and yeah you can make Word do it but I just don't hassle with it. I make religious use of styles in Word (and only 4 styles at that... talked to a graphic designer who does books for a living "Keep the styles to minimum!!"... Done), so getting it into InDesign is cake. Also, my mentor has a nasty of habit of constantly changing his mind and doing things like, "Can you move that picture about a centimeter to left, I just want a little space in there". I have been through this with Word, it will do it but the voices in your head will start suggesting that you kill again (and nobody wants that). I plan on doing my grants this way, manuscripts this way, everything. Everybody (NIH, journals, other funding sources) requires a PDF now and some require rather optimized PDFs (people think I'm crazy but I swear there is a difference between the PDFs that InDesign outputs and the ones that my wife's Mac does--just using the built-in PDF renderer or some of the other PDF creators for Windows), so I just went ahead and went through a tutorial on VTC.com and then read a couple of books. I wouldn't be able to layout a magazine but I can do grants, manuscripts, dissertations.

IPhoto book - resolution questions

What resolution should I use to scan in my printed 4x6 photos to get the best result from iPhoto book? Is 300 ppi sufficient, or should I use 400 or higher? Don't want to scan higher than needed since the files are quite large. Don't know what the resolution is of the printer used by Apple.
Also, is it still the case that I should make sure photos are first cropped to 4x3 for best results? I have the latest version of iLife 5.
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Jeff - thanks so much for your reply - very helpful. I'm scanning them all in at 600 dpi to give me options of printing some large.
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Book resolution question

Greetings, all.
This seems to be a common question here, and I've read several of the posts, but I hope you can help me with this one too - there's a slight twist I think.
I am printing a large hardcover book from a trip I took last May. Many photos I have available in 8MP, but some are only available in 2MP (1600x1200). See, my wife & I both took our cameras, but on some of the outings we only took her 2MP camera. Oops.
Anyway, I printed at Walgreens an 8x10 of one of the 2MP photos, to get an idea of what it might look like in a large hardcover book. Granted, the book is a little larger at 8.5x11, but I thought the 8x10 might give me an idea. So, sure, the picture is pixelated at 8x10, but it doesn't look terrible at that size.
Yeah, I know that I don't have to print the photos in large format, but some of them I really want to print that large. If you've ever been to the Alps, you know why.
Does anybody know how similar Walgreens' printing is to Apple's printing? I don't really want to spend $75 on a book and have it look crappy because I insisted on printing some of the 2MP pictures in full page format.
Thanks.

My first two books were made with photos from a camera that took only 1600 x 1200 photos and it came out fine. However, I use the old Storybook theme and had no full page photo layouts.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.≤br>
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard.

Iphoto book sharpening for print

Hello everyone:
I am planning on sending an iPhoto album to print to Apple. I have one doubt regarding my final workflow step, which is the output sharpening: using either Aperture3 or Capture NX2 what are the most appropriate output sharpening values ana metods (for printing of course) to get a properly sharpened output and not a flat result or one that is oversharpened and may contain halos and other artefacts? Are techs from Apple applying any sharpening algorithms to the albums before printing?
If any of you have experince with this, I wait for your feedback.
Cheers!

Do you plan to sharpen each photo in the book with Aperture or Capture NX2? Unless you see photos which have obvious reasons for sharpening there's really nothing you need to do. Just make sure none of the pictures have the Adobe RGB color profile.
iPhoto creates a PDF file of the book for uploading and printing. You can preview that PDF file by Control-clicking on the background of the All Pages window and selecting Preview Book from the contextual menu.
You can save the preview to compare to the book when you receive it.
Happy New Year

Address Book contacts question

Hi- just wondering if someone can help on this topic before I launch into the unknown!!:
If I add an Exchange 2007 account into my Apple Address Book, will those email addresses be available when I go to send an email in Apple Mail?
and so am I right to assume that Mail looks for addresses from:
1/ my "local" Mac Address Book entries
2/ my new Exchange contacts
3/ my Previous Recipients list in Mail
Lastly, when I choose "add to Address Book" in Mail, where will this contact go- to my "local" address Book on into the Exchange account?
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Does your question have anything remotely to do with iWeb 09? This is an iWeb 09 forum - did you not look where you were posting?
No - so it is not relevant to this forum. Please post in somewhere that is more relevant, such as the iPhone forum or the iPad forum.

Web Module Output Sharpening question

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I have to follow a somewhat convoluted workflow when doing my photobooks. But in a nutshell.
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I take the sized down images back into LR2 and output sharpen them and update them in InDesign.
I know it's not the greatest workflow, but it seems the the easiest and quickest. I wish there was some way for InDesign and LR to communicate the correct image sizes. But I haven't discovered anything like that yet.

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My normal workflow is adjust image in ACR and then batch sharpen, resize and convert to desired profile in Photoshop. I have the old batch operations working in Lightroom by converting the Photoshop actions to droplets and putting them in the Lightroom Export Actions folder. I have also created a develop preset to disable sharpening in Lightroom. I can now mimic my old workflow and still get the advantage of all the new RAW processing features in Lightroom. My question is - is there a Lightroom equivalent to the ACR setting of "Apply sharpening to preview images only"? At present I must turn on sharpening to evaluate the image and then remember to turn it off before exporting it. Thanks.

Luke,
I am sooo glad I read your post. Because at least I know it can be done ... now.
AND, I love your solution to Sharpening ... and "now" I can see the value of "applying sharping to preveiw images only".
* I have not created any Action/Droplets in PS CS2 for what I want done ... but, I am curious how you Run a action to "Save to WEB" and get it into a folder that is "inside" the current folder?
When I do a "save for web in PS CS2" the save seems to remember the last folder you saved to ... so would that not mess up a action you are running on different folders of files?
*** Making this longer than it probably should be ... but, this is what I would like to do as an action ... is it possable?
On Export * DO you EXPORT AS A 8BIT,sRGB FILE???
I would like to ... run a action/droplet ... to go to PS CS2 and Run "Portrature" Plug-in on it's own layer at 40% opasity ... then Change Profile ... make a levels adjustment , sharpen ... save as jpg (for lab printing)in a New Folder "JPG" inside the current folder ... THEN go back on History before the change in color Profile and levels change .. AND change image size , sharpen .. save for WEB in a new folder "WEB" inside the current folder.
So, when I am done ... I have two new folders inside my current working folder with ... "JPG" my profiled JPG for Print Lab ... and "WEB" for web upload.
Thank you for any help you can give this "newbie" to LR and PS CS2 actions/droplets
HG

Simple Book Formatting Question

Hello everyone, I am looking for an answer to a quick layout question. My organization and I have been publishing a book using Microsoft Word for many years now. To save money, we print out all the pages ourselves, then take them to the publisher to be bound. Because of this, in Word, we had to change the left and right page margins for every other page, in order to keep everything looking even in the binding.
We have recently decided to switch to Indesign to make the book more professional. My question is, will I have to continue alternating margins manually, or is there an easier way to do it? We are not professionals, and I am working my way through the Indesign tutorials and help files, but I wanted to ask this question here, since it's a little unusual. Thanks for your time.

Easier way.
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Ken
BTW, you don't actually have to do this manually in Word, either.

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Hi folks,
This is my first post on here and I only recentky purchased my WD My Book 2TB.
So a couple of questions for anyone who might be kind enough to assist here:
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Many thanks in advance guys . . .
Best,
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Welcome to the Community.
Only established and long-time board members who have earned a positive reputation by helping a lot and earning themselves Kudo stars and accepted solutions are able to change their avatars.
With regard to your second inquiry, the update is for WD Drive Utilities in question, not the WD My Book itself. You can manually update your device and the application in the following links:
http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=132&sid=171&lang=en
http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/wdsmartwareupdate/firmware.asp?id=wdfMyBook_FJK&os=WIN

Aperture book copyright question!

Hey...I was wondering if it would be allowed to make Aperture books and resell them....obviously if I do not own the copyright then I a cannot...but let's say I take a bunch of pics of my hometown and make a book and ask Apple for copies of this book...would I be allowed to sell it then?

Your images, your work, your creation -> your copyright. Aperture is just a tool and the printing service is just a service. If you write a novel using Microsoft Word, you still own the copyright and Microsoft has no rights over your work, no matter how many fancy fonts and formatting features you use. Aperture is no different.
I'm sure Apple would love you to sell as many copies as you can - especially if you are using their printing service. At worst, they sell more printing services to you as you buy more books. At best, your customers are so impressed that they use Aperture or iPhoto to print books themselves, and Apple sells lots more books.

Mac Book (2009) Question Mark Folder ... Help!!

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The 10.6 Snow Leopard DVD is in the Apple online store. You can get it for $19.99. You will need to be running 10.6.8 to access the App Store to order Lion or Mountain Lion. http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard
That folder with the question mark icon means that the MacBook can't find the boot directory. That can either mean it can't find the hard drive or the Operating System data on the hard drive is somehow corrupted.
Put your install DVD into the optical drive (CD/DVD drive) and reboot. Be sure to either use the disc that came with your Mac, or, if you installed a later Mac OS X version from disc, use the newer disc. As soon as you hear the boot chime, hold down the "c" key on your keyboard (or the Option Key until the Install Disk shows up) until the apple shows up. That will force your MacBook to boot from the install DVD in the optical drive.
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When it does start up, you'll see a panel asking you to choose your language. Choose your language and press the Return key on your keyboard once. It will then present you with an Installation window. Completely ignore this window and click on Utilities in the top menu and scroll down to Disk Utility and click it. When it comes up is your Hard Drive in the list on the left?
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If your hard drive isn’t recognized in Disk Utility then your hard drive is probably dead.

Fraser/Schewe RWCR Book - Sharpening Question

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