FS-100 emergency help questions

Additional apologies for posting this same thing on the Cow...
Apologies in advance if this is not the right place to be asking this but I'm in a pickle about how to extract what was shot today using the FS-100 connected to an AG-HPX170P.
The preface is that I have never used either prior to today. The reason being is that I don't own either. I'm doing (trying to do) a favor for a good friend wishing to make a doc on an ex rodeo champ who is paralysed from his endeavors.
So after two hours of trying to figure out how to get this thing to work (with everybody standing around tapping their feet) I managed the following settings on the FS:
Record: Normal
HDD: DVCProHD
DV Format: P2 PN
Functions: Tapeless
Utilities: (NA)
Reels: R0 0
Play: Play All
Play From: Track List (and Play All)
Control: Tapeless
I recorded the first interview with my DVX 100B in Squeeze mode, 24P, hoping that will blend in with the HD somehow in the future.
I brought it home and hooked it up to my G5. Currently using FCS 2.
I've found no files that are in the 0 through 9 folders and have another folder with files that have the .mxf extension. The log folder has the .xml.
So the $64. question is:
"Is there anyway I can recoup what I have?"
"How can I do it?"
"How much will it cost me for this information?"
"Should I start loading the chambers now, or just take the pill?"
I'm scheduled to shoot more tomorrow morning so it there's anyone out there with that magic bullet I am forever in your (y'all's) debt.
Thanks,
j
ps; I do have the books and am reading as fast as these tired old eyes and do...

Used to have to "Organize P2" on the FS100. That would put the files in a format that would adhere to the P2 directory and file structure. Then Log and transfer the footage into the project.
I understand there became an option on some firestores to record in quicktime in which case you would drag them to a drive. If you are seeing MXFs it sounds like you need to "Organize P2" on the firestore.
They should have a manual online for the device.
from your description of the footage it should come into a project with a 720P 24 format easy setup.
24PN is a native 23.98 DVCProHD.
I have not used a firestore in a couple of years, but that is what I remember.

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    -------------------- signature -------------------
    http://www.gregorywilker.com

    can anyone help?
    --------------------- signature -------------------
    http://www.gregorywilker.com
    "Greg Wilker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:g10146$nek$[email protected]..
    > hello everyone,
    >
    >
    >
    > I am hoping I can help someone with a delivery deadline
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    > today.
    > This is handed off to me with the hope that I can, but I
    am a new AS
    > programmer, soooo...
    >
    >
    >
    > There is an image gallery that loads thumbs from an xml
    file.
    >
    >
    >
    > The thumbs are links, each opening a larger version
    while "whiting out"
    > the
    > center/thumb content.
    >
    >
    >
    > Clicking on the larger image closes it and the thumbs
    reappear.
    >
    >
    >
    > BUGS
    >
    > 1. 1st thumb image isn't a link when swf loads
    >
    > 2. when a thumb is enlarged, it is no longer a link when
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    > back to the thumbs
    >
    > 3. sometimes there are links to thumbs exposed when a
    larger image is
    > loaded
    > a) result is that sometimes when collapsing a larger
    image a new large
    > image loads instead of collapsing to the thumbs

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    5) I use a Mac running yosemite 10.10 and would like to know more about ICC profiles where to find the manufactures ICC Profiles how to download and where to store can you recommend a common website for learning how to do this on a mac ?.
    6) As you can see I just want to print the best images from camera to printer without to much science involved however I am willing to learn but get confused with the different workspace post production softwares menu's for best results which i would prosume until i get my monitor calibrated proffesionally would be to print from Raw with the Manufactures ICC Profiles ?.
    7) Are colour space and calibration settings all about printing what you have on the screen or is it mainly for extra colour depth in the print ?.
    I can self calibrate my monitor to adobe RGB and have my camera shoot on adobe RGB -calibration with software but have been told i need colour monitoring devices correct ? if I was to do this and still just used the ICC paper profiles would the prints be any better ?.
    My first prints were excellent very similar to what I see on the screen anyway but I checked lightrooms settings and these are on Pro photo RGB for external editing and is this the colour space for print studio pluggin also or is it just native Raw sRGB if I change the settings it says I will lose the maxium potential colour space.
    sorry for the influx of questions :-)
    Thomas
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    You can not set the printer to match the monitor.  You must set the monitor to match the printer.  But the printer is already calibrated by the factory.
    First, you must not let the printer set anything.  Turn off every bit off control it has.  You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab.  Do you know how?  I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
    Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop or Lightroom) handle all the print settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop and I use AdobeRGB color space.
    And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing.  Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off.  If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps.  However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-on to do this.  No additional software or gadgets, etc.  No monkeys, no spiders, nothing!
    Most people set their monitors too bright.
    You must get the gray-scale very close.  You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
    After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen.  Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level.  One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you see it.  It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others.  My goal is to get the skin tones right.  That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here.  One is colored light and the other is colored dyes.  They are not the same thing.
    For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print slightly darker than what I see on the monitor (typical).  So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case.  It also prints with a slightly warn tone.  Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not.  In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
    All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast.  Canon engineers must prefer this look.  It can not be changed.  You need to "fix" it in post.
    Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer.  Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not.
    Important is, use the USB connection until everything is right.  You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time.  Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go.  Use a real printer USB cable.  Not just any old USB cable. Get everything right before you explore.
    Good luck.
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

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