G4 MDD Dead?

Installed two new DVD-writers yesterday (Pioneer DVR112). When I restarted, I noted that the jumper settings were wrong (both drives opened when I hit Eject!), so I powered-down and changed the drives to Cable Select.
When I tried to restart, the power-button went straight out and after about twenty seconds the fans went crazy. Since then I've done everything I can. This is basically the following:
Reset PMU then reboot.
Unplugged everything from mobo, reset PMU and reboot.
Uninstall RAM and reboot.
Remove mobo battery, leave Mac overnight then restart.
Attempted to restart in Target Disk mode.
Whatever I do, nothing seems to work - I can't boot to Open Firmware or reset the PRAM, as the Mac doesn't get to a point where it responds to the keyboard. Is there ANYTHING else I can do?

Tom-
You're a gentleman and a scholar!
Your second suggestion, the one about the faulty front panel switches, reminded me I had all those cable disconnected replacing the Power Supply. I'd had some trouble getting the power supply back into the loop locks and all this is adjacent to where the Front Panel board connects to the mother board. And all are under the drive ribbons (out of sight). Sure enough! The switch connector had been bumped enough it was loose on one end.
Problem solved.
Thanks again.

Similar Messages

  • G4 dual 1Ghz MDD dead?

    My G4 wouldn't start. Found the battery at 2.2v, so I replaced it. Now when the power button is pressed:
    - power button light on
    - fan on (some variation in fan speed)
    - startup chime
    - black screen
    - no normal disk activity (might spin up, but hard to tell)
    - 5 sec. press of the power button shuts it down
    If I remove the battery, press the PMU reset switch, or remove and replace the battery, then the 1st startup is a little different:
    - power button light on----off----on
    - power button brightens during the 5 sec press to shutdown
    Tried removing extra RAM DIMMs and second HDD to return to factory configuration; same result as above.
    Tried startup with cmdoption+PR to zap PRAM and did NOT get the expected second startup chime, just the same as above; does this mean startup is failing very early, before any attempt is made to load OSX from the disk?
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks for any help,
    Lil Davie

    The keyoard and mouse are the Apple originals that have worked for the past 5 years, so I doubt they are bad.
    Most likely so, but carefully inspect the wires for crimps, or kinks that are severe. Shorted wires will compromise the system.
    Test the keyboard on a different machine to confirm the keyboard.
    Try a different USB port.
    Try with only the mouse connected directly to the tower.
    A normal boot starts with a grey screen and small, centered, animated circle graphic; does the POST happen during this time?
    Often referred to "the spinning gear" is what you are seeing, I believe....
    POST happens immediately on power up, prior to startup chime.
    Starting with keys cmdoption+PR, cmdoption+OF, and [C] all give the same result: power button lit, fan on, start chime, black screen.
    Indicates bad keyboard, bad keyboard connection, bad USB port, or bad USB bus (which means logic board), bad logic board, or bad CPU, but not necessarily in that order.
    Should I expect the CD drawer to open when starting with the C key?
    Yes, or when the mouse is depressed (click hold) during startup.
    Given I get no screen image at all, could I expect the G4 to boot from a CD inserted in a manually opened drawer?
    The AHT diagnostic uses base systems to operate, which is enables the test to be run when there are hardware problems.
    I assume I cannot use the hardware tools until I can boot from CD; yes?
    Failure to respond to mouse or keyboard commands does remove the ability to test with diagnostic software.

  • Apple UK support (repair)

    Best area to post this, so here goes:
    My PowerMac G4 has started to have major problems so I took it to a West London (England) Apple Authorised Dealer if I remember corerctly.
    Now, to get an engineer to even look at my G4 was 3 weeks, 3 weeks!! I was shocked and dissapointed at this. A machine marketed as a professional tool and it can't be repaired quickly. If im in this boat there must be others too and a 3/4/5 week time scale is just not on. They said its because of priorites of warrenty customers, but our iBook was there for 5 weeks to get a new DVD drive after being bought 5 months earlier
    How can you (Apple) expect customers to accept this? Especially in a buisness environment?
    I've been using macs since I was 6, 10 years ago, every mac i've had had been superb, my first mac a Performa 630 is STILL working and this G4 which I bought in 2002 (along with another one which my dad has - a mac user for 20 years) have been fine up till now, with my dads still going strong. The odd harddisk failure is expected - thats my we keep backups.
    I was seriosly tempted by a new Quad G5 if the G4 is too expensive to repair - however if in 2/3/4/5 years time when that breaks and im dumped with a months waiting time or more to repair it do I want to buy it in the first place? I could get a PC for the same amount and I can repair it myself in a fraction of the time.
    Apple, please sort this out, 3 weeks just to LOOK at a machine is out of the question. Im having to look to private repairs now, and if you want to maintain your rep it would be a good start to improve repair support.
    Please give me the confidence to buy your products again, and for me to give others this advice too.
    Thanks James
    PowerMac G4 867 MDD - dead   Mac OS X (10.4)  

    Hi again James,
    I shouldn't really give out the details of who it was.
    Fair enough. Like I said, it was just curiosity on my part
    He said that its 3 weeks because of the demand from the area and the way Apple are stopping them applying for more engineers. The demand has overloaded them.
    If I'm reading your above statement correctly, then what you were told was rubbish and an outright lie. Again, AAR's and AASP's are independant businesses. One of the things they have to do to have those accreditations is to have a minimum amount of apple certified engineers and/or salesmen who regularly participate on Apple's online Sales Training and regularly achieve a minimum amount of points every quarter.
    There is no maximum amount of personell. Apple cannot tell the AAR/AASP how to run their business. Apple can, however, remove the AAR/AASP accreditation. This won't stop the dealer from carrying out repairs to out of warranty hardware but they cannot advertise that they have AASP status.
    If Customer keep accepting this then it will continue, Apple people must read these forums or are they moderated someway else?
    This happens with all products James. Like I stated earlier in this thread, there are a number of AAR's and AASP's within the M25 area. If you don't like the service you receive from one, then move on to the next one. It's their loss and if your experience with this independant dealer is indicative of how they treat all their customers they won't be in business for very much longer.
    I don't really fancy sending a letter is there a email address that could be used to address my issue?
    Give Apple UK a call and ask for Customer Relations. The number is 0870 876 0753
    RD

  • MDD, is it dead, or is it something like a battery..

    My trusted MDD- how do I know if it's dead, a bad hard drive, or something little, worth repairing? I press the power button on the front of the machine, see a light, but nothing happens-- no noisy hard drive, no nothing...just the light if I continue pressing it.
    I've had this computer since 2002, so if it's done, it's done, but I use it as a back up, and should have done a back up one more time.. if it's the hard drive, is there still a way to save the files? If it's the battery that has been the topic of discussion, where is the battery? If it's the front panel, is it worth fixing?

    Could be your internal memory battery. When you open the side door, it's on the left side of the logic board at the back edge of the video board. Check this site for battery part numbers and sources. Mac PRAM, NVRAM, CUDA/PMU & Battery Tutorial
    Could be your power supply. It's somewhat involved to check voltages to determine. Also, there's a fuse inside the power supply that may have blown.
    But first try a PMU reset. The instructions are in the above tutorial link.
     Cheers, Tom

  • G4 MDD DP867 dead.

    Just picked up a MDD 867 super cheap and it doesn't turn on... Not sure where to start.
    Previous owner remarked that it was going well for years, the fan started to become noisy, then it just died. Personally I think it's just suffering from a hangover.
    +I'm now on a mission to revive it.+
    Questions:
    - How do I tell the difference between a dead logic board and/or a Power Supply?
    - Is there a specific PSU for this model, or one that it is shared for all MDD units?
    - Where can I obtain a service manual of some kind for this wind tunnel?
    I appreciate any assistance/ideas you can provide.

    Hi-
    How do I tell the difference between a dead logic board and/or a Power Supply?
    Test the PSU first. Use the manual.
    Where can I obtain a service manual of some kind for this wind tunnel?
    Here.
    Is there a specific PSU for this model, or one that it is shared for all MDD units?
    There were two, a noisy one, and an updated, slightly less noisy one. All MDD's use the same PSU.

  • New owner of a dead MDD 867 ...again.

    My Dual 867 MDD died several months ago (Machine would power on but power button light would immediately dimm and after 20-30 secs the fans would come on full blast - with no video signal present) Strange thing was that sometimes I could get it to power on and boot normaly but this was very random and happened 1 out of 100 times. I took it into the apple store and the genius guys told me that its either the logic board, processors, or both. They thought the repair bill would be around $1000 too much to spend on a lowly 867 with no upgrade path. As luck would have it I recently found a new logic board for it and to my elation once installed she started right up I thought my problems were solved after several successful reboots..but then.. thud.. fans on full, power light off, mac **** resumed. Here's a list of the possible problems as far as I can figure:
    -Dead/dying processors (not sure this is it as I was able to boot up very ramdomly and it worked great when I put in the new LB.. at least for a few precious reboots)
    -Bad front panel power board (the mac genius told me that this wasn't my problem as he couldn't even power on the machine from a apple cinema display with its built it power switch.
    -Bad power supply (could this mean two dead logic boards)
    -Bad mojo from apple for not buying applecare and/or a new mac at least once every three years. (Strangely enough there has been quite a few mdd systems failing with the same or similar symptoms as of late Is it a apple conspiracy? - see links below)
    At this point I am unsure what to do next. I've tried pmu/battery resets and unfortunately spending money on a system which has no upgrade path (I still don't get why there are no processor upgrades for mdd or newer) may not be the best choice. I just thought I'd post this in the hope that someone would have good advice.
    Links to others who have felt my pain:
    http://forums.dealmac.com/read.php?4,2493916,2493916
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=582249&#582249
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=582281&#582281
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1206866&#1206866
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=586508&#586508
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=582277&#582277
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1375493&#1375493
    http://www.macfixitforums.com/php/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=Forum11&Number=731911& Forum=&Words=power%20up&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts &Main=731893&Search=true#Post731911
    http://strangedogs.proboards40.com/index.cgi?board=Problems&action=display&threa d=1124512940
    http://strangedogs.proboards40.com/index.cgi?board=Problems&action=display&threa d=1115804482
    g4 dual 867 mdd   Mac OS X (10.4.3)  

    What is the ambient room temp where your pc is set up and how hot is hot? I have turned the heating off in the room where my two pc's now reside
    Btw glad you found help here and solved your problem, nothing more frustrating than a hardware fault.
    As for cooling it's a trade off of noise and temp. I intend to go for some watercooling in the way of the new Aquagate when it's released but there are some very good air coolers. A lot of people have had success with the Zalman 7000.
    You could also try fitting an Arctic 4 cooler to your agp card. Mayeb try a HDD cooler, not sure how good these are though...
    Not sure about your case will have to look it up but I am after a Coolermaster Stacker to house my beast! Lots of cooling options there and room to fit stuff...

  • MDD dual 1.25 CPU DEAD- WHICH MOTHERBOARDS had COMPATIBLE CPU's?

    I've just finished (after much help from Japamac, Grant Bennet and others) diagnosing what's wrong with my MDD.
    *FRIED CPU.*
    My Logic board is marked 820-1476-A. I found a good used dual 1.25 CPU pulled from a MDD motherboard that's labelled (the motherboard is labelled) 820-1472-A.
    ANYONE know if the motherboards are compatible, i.e. if a cpu pulled from that motherboard will run on my motherboard?
    If noone knows, any ideas where I could find that info?
    From my research so far, some MDD motherboards with nearly similar numbers CAN interchange CPU's, others cannot.
    ANY help appreciated, especially now that I've got the issue isolated.
    Tom

    mddthing wrote:
    Have you isolated why the processors fried in the first place?
    If its heat I would advise the dual 1.42GHz heatsink and using arctic silver paste...
    Ah yes... the question of the millennium. What caused the first snowflake to fall...
    The fans are all fine.
    Here's the sequence of events:
    I was experiencing a series of system corruptions & freezes forcing me to do hard shutdowns when this happened.
    The only way to shut down a GUI freeze that I know of is to hard shut down (not good).
    The day the full cascade happened, I'd just finished my *8th or 9th hard shutdown.*
    I was trying to reboot from another partition on another disk that wasn't corrupted & repair the startup volume.
    +*That's when I got a steady pitched tone upon restart. I had no idea what it meant.*+
    +*After two more freezes the computer wouldn't startup at all.*+
    My insurance would pay only IF I took it to a tech center, and they said "bad power supply, get another computer. It's not worth it."
    I did end up get a used G5 but began to attempt a repair... I NEED a MDD for my music interface cards, circa 2000, which after my G5 purchase discovered that none of the cards work. That's my entire music interface; A MOTU 1208 with a 5 volt PCI card required to use it, and and "ADAT edit" card (same era).
    The new G4 PSU (and a new power switch) got something happening, but I discovered that one of 2 seagate drives in the "front" cage was dead (only 1 year old).
    Long story short, seagate sent me a new drive and, in researching the problem, I learned (*from seagate*) that their PATA barracuda drives run *really really hot.* I had TWO in the front cage, and two "pre-seagate" maxtor drives in the rear "wall cage".
    *My estimation is that it WAS a heat problem, in one way or another that caused everything.*
    I do music and drive the system pretty hard. There was thermal compound on the processors, but I wasn't the original owner, so I also have no idea if it was applied sufficiently, or how the computer was treated before I got it.
    My concern is that the motherboard may have taken a hit as well, since when I first examined the CPU I didn't see the "black dot" I saw after attempting a startup with the new PSU. It *did start once, ran for 5 minutes and that's when I think the CPU shorted.*
    Although (with the new PSU), even after that, all the fans run and the red light comes on, just no startup chime. Other than that I have no test equipment. Also running out of money.
    I'm probably going to try and get a new processor I saw ($114), use only ONE drive in the front cage, get some ice goop, and hope the motherboard survived. Simply can't swing $250 for a used MDD, so I'm trying the processor swap... first.
    I'm also going to find a way to install another small fan in the front cage blowing directly at the heat sink, and cross my fingers... *if I get that far*.
    The fans always cycled up and down when needed, so the system WAS recognizing heat conditions.
    I'm also thinking of drilling open the "cheese grater fake-holes" and setting the tower up off the floor for better air flow in general.
    The heat sinks all seem to have totally different attachment methods.
    Mine has 5 screws and uses a Rube Goldberg wiggy looking flange on the front.
    +*I didn't know you could swap for the "copper tube" heat sink. I assumed the the 1.47 motherboard had different attachment points.*+
    +*This is news to me. CAN I?*+
    My sense is that something in the original "cascade failure" caused one of the 2 processors to fail. But I'm just guessing. Can't be sure until I replace it.
    +*...God I love being broke...*+

  • Deleted ~usr folder and now i have a dead mdd.... need help

    So i was impatiently going through and cleaning up my mdd and for some reason seen the ~usr folder on my home page and had never seen it before, opened it up didnt look important, checked info and it seemed small so it couldnt be much??? Deleted it and soon after saw the side effects and problems it caused. MAchine wouldnt shut down right and when i tried to boot i always get stuck at the grey screen with apple logo and the wheel... So i need some advice on how to get this machine running again?
    1: i can to target disk mode and install panther (the only osx disks i currently have) Or i was told that the best thing would be to get a retail copy of the current os ( 10.4) and do an archive and install...
    1 question, if i do the archive and install will i loose everything on the disk, ie. folders, files and programs?
    2nd ?, if i do target disk mode will i be able to access the HD and maybe save some of the files or apps?
    Whats the best thing to do at this point?
    Thanks

    If it appears to be time for a relatively painless Archive & Install, which gives you a new/old OS, but can preserve all your files, pics, music, settings, etc., as long as you have plenty of free disk space and no Disk corruption, and is relatively quick & painless...
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107120
    Just be sure to select Preserve Users & Settings.

  • PMG4 MDD Power Supply dead? Where can I get one?

    Does anyone know of another source for the PMG4 MDD Power Supply? When I press the power button to turn it on, nothing happens. Yes, I have reset the PMU, replaced the battery, left it unplugged overnight, and still nothing at all, no lights noises or anything.
    I think it's the power supply, and my Apple Authorized Service Center says they haven't been able to get a power supply for over a month now.
    Is there a shortage of the Samsung Power Supplies for this?
    Thanks,
    Jay

    Thanks for the help. After calling my Apple Authorized Service Center asking what the ETA was, they told me to call 1-800-MYAPPLE and ask about the status of the Power Supply they ordered on April 24th. I called Apple yesterday, and today I got a call that the Power Supply was being shipped out today.
    Not sure where the bottleneck was (Apple, AASS, etc.) but it took over a month for one to get shipped out, when the MDD G4 that blew a PS last month had one replaced in 2 days.
    I am speculating that these Power Supplies have been failing at an abnormally high rate lately, and are out of production. Of course, that is just a guess.
    Hopefully someone out there benefits from my info here.
    Thanks,
    Jay

  • What's the best way to transfer files from dead MDD G4 PowerMac to new iMac desktop?

    My Mirrored Drive Door 1 ghz G4 Power Mac recently stopped powering on. I have just purchased a new iMac with 2.5 ghz intel core i5. What is the best way for me to transfer the files to the new machine?
    Someone on another thread recommended buying a converter cable like this one: http://www.newertech.com/products/usb2_adaptv2.php
    Will I need to use transfer software too? I'd like to bring my playlists along to the new machine but don't need any of the software.
    Thanks!

    That will work. You could also remove the hard drive from the MDD and put it in an external enclosure so you would have it for backup.
    You can use the utility, Carbon Copy Cloner, to transfer files - MacUpdate or CNET Downloads.

  • Dead - G4 MDD

    I have a G4 Mdd that initially, without preliminary indications, failed to startup. Power button would flash but go out upon release.
    Replaced internal battery - still no change.
    Reset PMU - no help
    Detected missing voltages at power supply connector so I obtained and replaced the power supply.
    Now the unit would startup but the CPU fan was extremely noisy and running at a high rate regardless of the level of computer activity. After several days of messing with it I decided to replace the fan.
    About 4 days later upon new fans arrival I attempted to startup the computer before changing the fan. Now the power on button won't even light when pressed.
    The AC had been disconnected from the unit while awaiting the fan.
    I've repeated the initial tests - battery is OK (3.6v). Resetting PMU has no effect. And, checking the power supply (at the P1 connector) seems to be OK,at least at points failing before. However, I don't seem to be getting some of the voltages indicated on the pinout chart (24 pin). The 3.3v associated with the orange leads doesn't seem to appear. However, I'm not sure it was before when the unit was shut down.
    Should all the indicated voltages be present at the P1 connector even when the computer isn't running?
    Anyone have any ideas where I should go from here?

    Tom-
    You're a gentleman and a scholar!
    Your second suggestion, the one about the faulty front panel switches, reminded me I had all those cable disconnected replacing the Power Supply. I'd had some trouble getting the power supply back into the loop locks and all this is adjacent to where the Front Panel board connects to the mother board. And all are under the drive ribbons (out of sight). Sure enough! The switch connector had been bumped enough it was loose on one end.
    Problem solved.
    Thanks again.

  • How do I deactivate imessage and ichat on a dead phone/  Recently switched to samsung

    Howdo I deactivate Imessage and Ichat on a dead 4s?  Recently waithced to Samsing and not getting messages from iphone contacts

    Hi,
    In theory an iPhone that appears to the Server as Off Line will be "de-registered" from the server.
    Twice at various iOS Upgrades I have had the iPhone Number become greyed out leaving only the Apple ID is use (Despite the fact th item is greyed out and unchangeable by the user.
    This should mean that the iPhone should present as not in service and the sender should "Switch" to sending SMS.
    However as the Mac version may still have the iPhone number in it's Send and Receive lists then the iPhone may appear to be still logged in.
    You can "disable" the iPhone number in the iMessages account (Messages > Preferences > Accounts).
    Unticking the Receive At will also  remove it form the Start Conversation From drop down.
    It can be removed by deleting the com.apple.ids.service.com.apple.madrid.plist in Mavericks and above as this holds the current Apple ID and any "Aliases" in use.  You will need to re-enter your Apple ID in Messages on the Mac if you do this.
    Ultimately contacting Apple Support is the simplest and best way although some of the above may be needed to "tidy up" afterwards.
    9:51 pm      Wednesday; October 29, 2014
    ​  iMac 2.5Ghz i5 2011 (Mavericks 10.9)
     G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
     MacBookPro 2Gb (Snow Leopard 10.6.8)
     Mac OS X (10.6.8),
     Couple of iPhones and an iPad

  • How to test if MDD power supply is bad or it's Something Else

    Ok,
    I've had a MDD for 4 years. Dec 2007 the PSU died. I had it replaced under my renter's policy (yeah..) the new rev. part was $870!. I Didn't care... insurance paid for the repair.
    Now, after 1.5 years, I was having disk corruption issues which led to numerous forced shutdowns (no reset button on the MD) finally, after about 5 of these in one day, the power on light lit when pressed, and I heard a crackle & smelled a a bit of smoke. I pulled the power cord immediately.
    btw pressing the power button now did nothing at all, no "fan attempts" no crackle.. nothing.
    Same deal, I called the ins co, took MDD to the authorized techs, who checked & said the PSU was dead... again.
    The Ins Co. is "totaling" the MDD and I'm looking for a used G5.
    BUT! I'd love to get the MDD working again. Just to have it as a second machine.
    I've read a bunch of threads here on this issue & testing the PSU.
    I'm not a super geek, but I can follow instructions... which I did. There's a great online instruction set with pics and all, about how a guy found a bad solder by disassembling the PSU.
    I followed it step by step. Saw nothing remarkable.
    Then I came here looking for steps to test the PSU (I'm starting to wonder if it's more than that).
    I found a diagram of the pins and voltages.
    Connected the PSU the the juice and started testing the connector, where it plugs into the motherboard.
    Here's what I found (connected to power but obviously still not starting the computer):
    Pin 1 (says +5volts sb, which I assume means stand by?) with the black lead from the tester inserted into pin 2 (gnd). It read 5 Volts.
    No other pins showed ANY voltage EXCEPT pin 14 (which says +25Vsb). That read +24.8V when tested.
    What I DON'T know is...
    If disconnected from the MDD, should all the pins read voltage as the pinout diagram says? I'm brand new to this level of diagnosis.
    I'm wondering if maybe the CPU fried etc.
    Also, while trying to determine if the power button might be faulty I broke the switch off (duhh). Shorting across the two stubs that were left there didn't produce any powerup either (it's just a 2 pin contact switch right?)
    So I need to know if I have accurately found the PSU to be bad. I can get one on ebay for $150-ish.
    But I'm worried, since this was a +*new super better PSU*+ and it (possibly) has died, maybe something on the motherboard etc. isn't right.
    The machine hasn't been connected to power for 3 weeks & yes, the battery is now dead. I swapped it out, and reconnected the PSU... nothing.
    +*So first, did I correctly test the psu?*+
    there was a dead link to a MDD repair manual on another thread. First I have to figure out IF the psu is dead, and then decide if something else KILLED it.
    Help? I'm using wife's G4 and she's getting real PO'd after 3 weeks!
    Thanks to anyone in advance.
    Tom

    Hi,
    Thanks. By power button board, Do you mean the unit that has the power button on it? On the case front?
    If so, I mentioned the switch broke while I was testing. I guess to continue I have to get a new switch.
    I will pull the mini-board for the power button though to look for signs of damage.
    Can I get a new switch to solder on to the board, if the board looks good. The orig. switch physically broke off the board. It's a standard contact switch correct? i.e. press and there should be continuity between the two pins? I'll pull the board as well.
    I've already checked the PSU interior. No burnt wires visible anywhere. There's a lot of grey goo glue used so it's hard to see, but since the PSU passed the two passive power tests you mentioned, are we for now assuming it is a good PSU?
    Other discussions I've read, describe continuing to test different pins and look for appropriate voltages. That doesn't make sense to me with the computer not starting up.
    Aren't the rest of the voltages supposed to show ONLY after the command to supply startup power is given (by the power switch)?
    Processor "looks" good too, no signs of burnt anything after pulling the heat sink, but I haven't removed the logic board or the mother board yet to look underneath.

  • Formac TFT display suddenly not working help!!! G4 MDD DP1.25

    Hi all...could use some pointers here. My formac 17" TFT display has suddenly stopped working on my MDD G4 DP1.25 - I use the standard graphics card. Turned the mac on today, and the display just wont turn on, though the silver light on the display flashes (as in standby) which means it's getting power. I also have a CRT display attached to the same card, and it's working as normal which I presume means that the graphics card is not dead. I tried booting from a different startup volume, same result. Any ideas please?? thanks!

    no it doesn't support multiple inputs, it just has an on/off switch and is connected to the radeon 9000 pro graphics card (as shipped with the G4) via the ADC connector. Like I said, the VGA monitor that's hooked up to the same card works ok. And....weirder still, the Formac monitor has USB ports on the back, and although the monitor will no longer work (just the pulsing light on the front suggesting it's in stanbdy mode) the USB devices will still work when connected to the monitor - so this means either the card is half working or the monitor is half working!!! But I need to know which before I spend any $$$. Anyone got any ideas please? thanks!

  • Best ways to cool down my mdd

    i am looking for tips and or tricks to help keep my mdd cool... anything short of sitting it in front of the air condidtioner. the older this mac gets, and the more intense the apps get with each new version, this machine seems to keep getting hotter and hotter. i have this mac maxed out at 2gb ram. i have removed both superdrives as they were both dead anyways. i figured remove these and less power would be drawn through the system. i have 3 of the 4 hd slots filled. my main use of this machine now is to browse the web, check mail and be a repository for files, photos and music. i recently acquired a 2 ghz macbook and i do most of my photo work with this machine and use the mdd to store everything. i have the hardware preference pane installed from the developer tools that allows me to switch on the NAP function. if i didnt use this, my fans would run high 24/7. if i go to video intense sites like you tube, or my duaghter gets on her webkinz page, the fans then run high. can i different fans? should i uninstall apps i dont use?.....

    thanks everyone for all yr suggestions....years ago, i removed the clear plastic piece behind the bottom front foot to allow more air in. that seemed to help in the beginning. every year i notice this mac keeps getting warmer. i have temp monitor installed which helps me keep an eye on things. i do keep this machine cleaned out, although on an irregular basis. i just added a third hd and it wasnt really dirty. i will pick up some canned air and give this a good blow. i cant remember at the moment if i put that new drive in the from or the back. seeing as its a 500 gb drive i should check and make sure its pushed to the back of the machine. i will look into putting in more fans. i dont have much room for anything like that on my desk at the moment.
    my current temp is is 114f / 455c, and thats with the NAP function turned on. when i switch this off my temp jumps to 138f / 59c. the only apps i am using while typing this are firefox and temp monitor. and dashboard with two widgets....and the fans are running at a medium speed with nap off. though there have been several occasions where the fans have ran much higher, but thats only been if the power is knocked off, the mac restarts, sits for a spell and the NAP function isnt on.
    i even looked into tracking down a script or have automator turn this NAP function on when restarts like that happen. but no luck. my daughter and girlfriend can never seem to remember to turn on Nap when needed...
    anyways, thanks to all.....
    Message was edited by: Israel Tunis

Maybe you are looking for