Getting ready for kernel26 2.6.32 - Question of ext4 performance

As 2.6.32 approaches, i'd like to post the Phoronix benchmarks for it
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=a … arks&num=1
There seems to be a "large" performance loss on ext4 due to a specific commit on main kernel branch.
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=a … ions&num=2
http://git.kernel.org/?p=linux/kernel/g … 25b9aeb745
I'd like to ask if it is possible to have .32 kernel with a patch that would revert that upstream commit.
If that isn't allowed by Arch patching policy, just ignore this thread

Bonnie++ from AUR:
System: Intel Core i5 750, 4GB of RAM, WD6401AALS
2.6.31
Version 1.96 ------Sequential Output------ --Sequential Input- --Random-
Concurrency 1 -Per Chr- --Block-- -Rewrite- -Per Chr- --Block-- --Seeks--
Machine Size K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP /sec %CP
flamepc 8G 723 97 82719 7 39984 4 4192 98 106395 4 385.7 4
Latency 11481us 943ms 265ms 2472us 11436us 306ms
Version 1.96 ------Sequential Create------ --------Random Create--------
flamepc -Create-- --Read--- -Delete-- -Create-- --Read--- -Delete--
files /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP
16 24965 33 +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++
Latency 11731us 422us 437us 112us 82us 81us
1.96,1.96,flamepc,1,1259401928,8G,,723,97,82719,7,39984,4,4192,98,106395,4,385.7,4,16,,,,,24965,33,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,11481us,943ms,265ms,2472us,11436us,306ms,11731us,422us,437us,112us,82us,81us
2.6.32
Version 1.96 ------Sequential Output------ --Sequential Input- --Random-
Concurrency 1 -Per Chr- --Block-- -Rewrite- -Per Chr- --Block-- --Seeks--
Machine Size K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP K/sec %CP /sec %CP
flamepc 8G 822 98 81669 7 38687 3 4198 75 105470 4 255.0 3
Latency 11138us 1600ms 1302ms 74131us 52760us 573ms
Version 1.96 ------Sequential Create------ --------Random Create--------
flamepc -Create-- --Read--- -Delete-- -Create-- --Read--- -Delete--
files /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP /sec %CP
16 +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++ +++++ +++
Latency 129us 402us 411us 184us 62us 51us
1.96,1.96,flamepc,1,1259395151,8G,,822,98,81669,7,38687,3,4198,75,105470,4,255.0,3,16,,,,,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,+++++,+++,11138us,1600ms,1302ms,74131us,52760us,573ms,129us,402us,411us,184us,62us,51us
I just ran bonnie++ executable, with no options.
I'll try the ozone benchmark now. [edit] iozone -a has a non-readable output hmmm.
Last edited by flamelab (2009-11-28 11:04:42)

Similar Messages

RE: Getting ready for production

Take the Forte Project Management Class. It tell you everything you
need to know
to go live.
ka
From: Julie Muth[SMTP:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, August 18, 1997 9:39 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Getting ready for production
We'll be deploying our first application into production in the near
future and I'ld be interested in any advice you have to offer - horror
stories, successes, what worked, what didn't, what you would do
differently. Also, any advice on the organization and skill set of the
people doing deployments would be appreciated.
Julie Muth
Assistant Project Director
NYS Division of Criminal Justice Services
Albany, NY
[email protected]

Ok... here we go, not sure what you are doing except editing DV right now,
but this will work for HDV, DVCPROHD, Uncompressed SD and some ProRes
as long as you have a good Gigabit Router to transfer files. Please consult
a professional if this sounds scary to you.
*Redundant FILE SERVER* for project files, important stuff
1. Install at least 4GB RAM in G5 #1 (max $200)
3. Make sure there are two identical SATA drives in the G5. Install OSX Leopard Server ($499) on 1 drive. Use Carbon Copy Cloner (Free... http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html) and clone
the main drive to SATA drive #2 when drive #1 is set up completely. Use drive #2 as backup.
4. Connect CalDigit 2.56TB HDOne External Hard Drive Array (RAID-5) with PCI-X adapter ($2830)
SubTotal: $3600...ish
*Current MacPro* Add unprotected scratch disk for main edit suite
1. Install Sonnet Tempo SATA e4p Serial ATA Host Adapter ($260)
2. Connect Sonnet 2.5TB Fusion D500P eSATA Array System (RAID-0) ($1700)
Subtotal: $2000...ish
*2nd G5* convert to p2 Logging/backup Station
1. Sony BWU-200S Internal 4x Blu-ray Disc Rewritable Drive (599.95)
2. Roxio Toast ($85)
SubTotal: $700
*NEW Intel MacPro* will increase productivity
1. 8 Core 3ghz Intel MacPro ($3600)
Total: Around 9900-10,000
(Buy from PowerMax.com or other out of state vendor to avoid sales tax)
If you want to organize things, then FCS will help. You can install
on G5#2 for 999.00 more. I would focus on hardware first though.

MOVED: MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

This topic has been moved to MSI AMD boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=181363.0

Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
Link?
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
Anyone know the TDP of this board?
In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a. Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that. Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.

Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
Link?
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
Anyone know the TDP of this board?
In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a. Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that. Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

Getting ready for ext4

EDIT (18jan09): Since this thread was begun, pointone has added a wiki section on converting ext3 partitions to ext4. Find it here.
I guess this means I don't have much of a life, but I'm getting pretty excited about ext4. I haven't tried a new filesystem in ages.
There are good pages out there on ext4, such as this how-to and this overview. Still, I'm a little wobbly on just how the conversion/migration is going to go.
I won't be creating any ext4 partitions from scratch right away, but I'll be converting two partitions from ext3 to ext4. It looks as if this is all I'll have to do:
(1) Use kernel 2.6.28 or later.
(2) Make sure ext4 is enabled in my kernel config.
(3) In /etc/fstab, change the file type of my two ext3 partitions to ext4.
Is this right? Is there anything else necessary?
Now, here's an additional question:
If I want to apply extents to my existing ext3 partitions as I convert to ext4, do I have to do anything? I realize that in doing so, I will no long be able to access those formerly ext3 partitions as ext3. Or at least that's what I understand.
Last edited by dhave (2009-01-18 22:44:45)

O.K., after finally getting through this process of converting two partitions from ext3 to ext4, including my root (but *not* my boot, which I left as ext2) partition, here's the outline of what I had to do. If others could scan this for errors or missteps, or make other improvements, please do so.
Note that this is for converting an existing ext3 partition to ext4, not for creating a new ext4 partition from scratch (which is arguably easier and probably more efficient, since you'll have all ext4 features enabled from the beginning).
Here's the procedure I followed:
(1) Back up any ext3 partitions that you want to convert to ext4. I didn't have to use my backups, but I came very close to needing to, and it made the process much more pleasant knowing that I had the backups if I needed them.
(2) Edit /etc/mkinitcpio.conf, adding "ext4" to the "MODULES=" line. NOTE: If you're using mkinitcpio-0.5.20-1 or later and klibc-1.5.14-2 or later (both still in [Testing] repo as of 31dec08), this step may no longer be necessary. Edited on 31dec08.
(3) Install kernel 2.6.28 or later. You can use Arch kernel26 from testing (as of 26dec08); just verify that the kernel version is at least 2.6.28. Ext4 is enabled by default in the kernel config. In the Arch kernel 2.6.28, ext4 is built by default as a module, which seems to be fine.
(4) In /etc/fstab, change the file type of any ext3 partitions that you want to change to ext4. Don't change /boot to ext4 unless you've upgraded to grub2.
(5) Now do the actual filesystem conversion using the tune2fs and fsck tools. These need to be run when your target filesystem is unmounted. So, take a recent LiveCD of some sort. NOTE: It needs to have a current version of e2fsprogs; I like SystemRescue 1.1.3, which has e2fsprogs 1.41.3. A current Arch install CD should serve, too, as long as it's recent. (I'd download and burn a fresh one just to make sure.)
(a) Boot from the LiveCD, then run this on the filesystems you want to convert from ext3 to ext4:
tune2fs -O extents,uninit_bg,dir_index /dev/yourfilesystem
(b) After running this command you MUST run fsck. If you don't do it, Ext4 WILL NOT MOUNT your filesystem. This fsck run is needed to return the filesystem to a consistent state. It WILL tell you that it finds checksum errors in the group descriptors - it's expected, and it's exactly what it needs to be rebuilt to be able to mount it as Ext4, so don't get surprised by them. Since each time it finds one of those errors it asks you what to do, always say YES. If you don't want to be asked, add the "-p" parameter to the fsck command, it means "automatic repair":
fsck -pf /dev/yourfilesystem
[This part is taken from the kernelnewbies page that shuay referred to above: http://kernelnewbies.org/Ext4 .]
On my 200Gb partition, I think fsck needed about 15 minutes to complete this, using the "-pf" switch.
(6) Edit the grub /boot/grub/menu.lst file if you migrated your /root partition. Add this to the kernel line:
rootfstype=ext4
NOTE: If you're using mkinitcpio-0.5.20-1 or later and klibc-1.5.14-2 or later (both still in [Testing] repo as of 31dec08), the step just above (#6) may no longer be necessary. Edited on 31dec08.
Note also that I'm using grub legacy (not grub2), so I didn't migrate my /boot partition and I was able to make grub changes in /boot/grub/menu.lst rather than the newer grub.cfg approach. I don't know what to do for Lilo, as I no longer use it.
(7) If your main kernel doesn't boot, try the fallback.
That should do it. Please, if I've omitted something or goofed up otherwise, say so soon! I don't want to mess anyone else up.
Last edited by dhave (2008-12-31 19:59:27)

Getting ready for a video capture project, need some guidance

Hi, I'm getting ready to hold an xbox LAN tournament and I would like to capture the game to my computer so I can give people DVDs of it afterwards. The G5 i my first tower and I've had no experience in PCI cards and capturing A/V and all that jazz.
Basically I'm going to be having an input of component cables (though its only going to be 480p, no HD) and possibly optical audio, though more likely analog because I'm going to try to borrow a mixer and run everyone's headsets into the G5.
What am I going to need as far as a video capture card? Will it work in the PCI-X slot or am I going to have to swap it with my 9650 XT?
Also, I'm guessing I'm going to have to buy final cut express to do the software capturing (Seriously, if you couldn't tell already, I really have no idea what I'm doing )
I'm willing to buy the hardware and software required and get some books to figure out the process, but if anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome.
Thanks a bunch,
Sean

I use a Canopus DV converter to capture analog video/audio to my computer. I've got the ADVC-100 which has been updated to ADVC-110 and costs about $250. It connects via firewire and works like a charm. I capture using iMovie HD which more than meets my needs for now. I burn dvd's using iDVD which also meets my current needs. My setup is audio-video source, usually a vcr, to the ADVC-100, to the G5 via firewire. Make sure you've got plenty of dick space available to capture. I use aa 320 gb external SATA RAID set. It's really an easy setup and capturing and buring using Apple's software is a snap. Not a steep learning curve. I would suggest if your going to use more advanced software to get a few projects under your belt before the tournament, if you're going to use the iApps you'll find them much easier to learn and will be up and running sooner.

Getting ready for Web produce - is just select by filter okay?

I'm getting ready to produce wedding shots for the web. Just to make sure, I wanted to ask:
Do I just tag the images in this set that I want to appear in the web site and do a 'select by' filter selection for the one's I have marked? And will those then be the only one's that appear in the final web site?
Thank You, I hope this is the way this works,
Ken

You can tag/flag/star images then filter by that tag/flag/star. Then the Web gallery will only include the filtered images. What doesn't work is selecting a group of images then trying to make a Web gallery of just those. The Web gallery will use all images shown in the thumbnail view, rather than just the selected ones. (In other words, you need to use a filter.)
However, collections have the added virtue of allowing resequencing.

TS1424 I have an ipad and an iphone on two seperate itunes account and i can not make an itunes purchase on either device. I keep getting asked for answers to the securtity question which i never answered in the first place! How do i fix this?

I have two seperate itunes accounts on two seperate devices and i can not make an itunes purchase on either one. When signing into the account it ask for the answer to security questions. I have NEVER answered a security question for these accounts. Each time it is a different set of questions. This has only happend since the original devices have been replaced/upgraded. How do I fix this? There is money in each account and both have recieved itunes giftcards for christmas that they are unable to use!

sailsalot wrote:
I have a new ipad and have used the community to answer questions for myself. Your help has been great! I don't know how you got my sailsalot name from my Skype account but I signed in with you as "gags76" and got help with my new ipad. I discovered I used a different Apple id and password on my ipad from my computer (imac) and changed that. My e-mail is Could you email me if there is something I should do at my end. I have to use itunes to sync with my ipad so I have been going back and forth between the two. Should I sign in with my proper Apple id on my ipad?
Yes

Getting ready for delivery - Ringtone question

I have a number of music clips that I have used as ringtones on my Samsung Blackjack. When I take delivery of iPhone can I transfer these files via iTunes to the iPhone and use them as ringtones there? Thanks for any help!

you can do it in itunes, rightclick on the song and "convert to AAC". This converts it to m4a. Then you go into windows and change the extension to m4r.
This article has detailed instructions http://www.wired.com/software/coolapps/news/2007/09/ringtone_hacks
It says it's for itunes 7.4 but it worked for me with the latest version and still works with the 2.01 update.

Getting ready for printing...

I have a Canon G12 and shoot in RAW format. I know the native aspect ration for this camera in RAW is 4:3. I also know already that the two sizes of finished prints I am interested in are 8x10 and 16x20. After importing the images from my camera into my computer (and into Aperture), I can see that the pixel dimensions for my RAW images are 3648x2736 for portrait (and vice versa for landscape).
After making whatever color correction and changes to the image, I am happy with what I have. So moving onto the crop and aspect ration and dpi settings - and then the export to have an altered and saved new image to send off for printing - this is where I feel totally lost.
For example...the crop sizes listed, I see 4x5/8x10 - my understand is that these sizes...4x5, 8x10, 16x20 - they are all the exact same aspect ration - so no matter how big or small I want to print the image, as long as I want one of those sizes, it would be fine, correct?
When I initially click on the 4x5/8x10 selection, it puts a small crop area in the center of the photo. But it allows me to drag the corners to enlarge the crop area, so I am curious to know...is the 4x5/8x10 crop area that initial smaller section, or is it still the same even if I click and drag ou the corners making it larger.
Does anyone know also, how/where do I change the dpi to 300?
And lastly, how do I know if I have enough pixels to make an 8x10 or a 16x20. I have RAW files and JPEGS - and they all vary in pixel dimension. Is there a simple process to figure out if what I see on the computer screen will look the same as a finished print?

Excellent questions ... that cover a lot of ground.
3648 / 2736 = 1.333333333. The aspect ration is 4:3.
Are you printing from Aperture or sending a file out to be printed? If printing from Aperture, all you need to do is create a Version that is ready to print, and then print it. Printing from Aperture is an export-and-print operation -- there is no need to export the file and save it.
(This is worth understanding. In Aperture, you make Images that are ready to be exported (or printed), but you don't create files (or prints) until you need them.)
The aspect ratio has no units -- it is just a ratio. It describes not the size of a rectangle, but the ratio of the sides of a rectangle. 4:3, 8:6, 1.33:1 are all identical aspect ratios.
Once you have set the aspect ratio, you can set the size (and position) of your rectangular crop by dragging the crop box handles or the crop box itself.
Generally speaking, you will want at least 150 pixels for each inch to be printed, and don't need more than 300. 150 ppi is a slightly impracticable minimum -- you will likely want to use some sophisticated up-rezing to get a stellar print. 200-250 ppi is enough. 300 ppi is plenty. All of this is based on norms of printers, ink, papers, and display (distance, lighting) that may or may not fit your needs.
For a 16" x 20" print that looks good at arm's length 3,200 x 4,000 pixels should suffice.
Aperture includes soft-proofing. You select a profile of the printer, paper, and the printing settings, and Aperture will apply this to your Image and show you what should be a match. Soft-proofing is complicated. At a minimum, you will need a high-quality monitor and hardware calibration.
The User Manual covers much of this in detail particular to Aperture, including a section on Proofing. Well worth reading.
Message was edited by: Kirby Krieger

Getting ready for AppleCare phone talk tomorrow...

My new iMac arrived Friday. But, except for taking it out of the box, have done nothing yet.
Reason: I want to do it right from the get-go. And I am not all that confident in my computerese abilities. I intend to accomplish a couple of things with a *real live person* from AppleCare on the phone. (Reason for AppleCare versus Apple Discussion Forums? Not for the advice. Used them in the past and they were not as helpful as Discussion Forums, even downright wrong at times). But for now, I want to tie up an expert, keep him/her on the phone, until I get this all done the right way. Step-by-step. But the primary reason for AppleCare for three years? The hardware/labor protection.
So, to get going according to the little Apple book:
1) Set-up. Did read the little book that came w the computer. By the way, a 21.5" ATI Radeon HD 4670 256MB (whatever that means) iMac, 3.33 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 8 GB RAM, 2TB Serial ATA Drive (Again, whatever that means). This compares to my present iMac, specs below. Believe I will see an enormous difference.....particularly with my primary computer activity...home music recording (i.e. GarageBand).
By set-up, I mean what it said in the little book (hardly a manual):
1) insert the power cord into the iMac and into an outlet (But don't turn the computer on yet? Really?);
2) Connect Ethernet cable into iMac and into Modem (Should the modem be turned on, or off when hooking up? Does it make any difference?);
3) Turn on wireless keyboard and mouse. (Does this mean the keyboard and mouse should not be turned on before the computer itself?);
4) Press power button on iMac to turn it on (so, I guess you shouldn't turn the iMac "on" in step 1);
5) use +Setup Assistant+ to Configure you Mac. This is where, as I understand, you transfer files/applications from the "old" computer onto this *"new one."* But.....if you choose not to do it now, you can accomplish the same by using +Migration Assistant+ later. Question: Which is the preferable method? _Setup Assistant_ to do transfers immediately, or _Migration Assistant_ to do it later?
6) Customize you iMac and set you preferences.
These are the six steps the little Apple book lists to get you up and running.
Once up and running, is there a preferable way to hook up peripherals? (i.e. printer first?, keyboard/synthesizer, preamp, external hard drive, etc?)
Before my phone call, I want to be ready. Already have gone through the maze of cords behind my computer work station. To ensure that I can access the proper cords and cables when I'm on the phone with AppleCare.
*Should I have a Firewire cable ready?* To transfer stuff from my old iMac to the new one? Would seem so.
Is there anything else I should have available before I place my call? Don't want to waste their time, certainly not mine.
My other concerns about this new computer,and there have been a few, have already been addressed.....to my satisfaction here in Discussion Forums.
Very excited to get this thing up and running. And apprehensive. Want to make sure this iMac is what I ordered. Want to make sure everything is working. Just want to use it.
Thanks everyone, in advance.

nemateoz wrote:
Seems that doing this is best done right away with Setup Assistant....as opposed to doing it later with Migration Assistant. Does this mean if I don't do it right away I can't use Setup Assistant later but am relegated to Migration Assistant?
Usually. (You can get to it later, but you'd have to erase your internal HD and reinstall OSX.)
And that lengthy narrative on Time Machine versus Time Capsule talks about "backing up" to a selected disc. How am I backing up when I'm thinking I'm just copying stuff onto my new computer. (Also, don't see any video there...the site you mentioned).
Yes, sorry, wrong link. Try this one: Time Machine Tutorial
Ignore (for now) all the stuff about backing-up. About 2/3 of the way through, there's a title on the screen: +Migrating to a new Mac.+ It shows how to do that from Time Machine backups, of course, but the first option on the +Do You Already Own a Mac?+ screen is to transfer from another Mac. That's what you want; otherwise the process is exactly the same, and very easy.
+Note that neither Setup Assistant nor Migration Assistant will replace newer Apple apps that came with the new Mac with older ones from your old one, so that's not a concern.+
That's really good to know. But how will I know the difference from, say: GarageBand 2 (older version) from the new GarageBand included in iLife '09? I think they'll both have the same guitar icon. Once both GB versions are on my new computer, could I simply rename the old GarageBand to GarageBand 2 and leave the new...with an icon that just says GarageBand... alone?
I don't know about GarageBand in particular; but most likely you'll have only the new one. If you do have two, you can always easily determine what version an app is. Either right-click it in the Applications folder and select +Get Info,+ or start it up and select the name of the app in the Menubar, then the +About <app name>+ option.
How would I differentiate between old and new iPhoto, iMovie, etc?
For those and most or all others, you'll only have the new version. OSX will automatically "convert" any old files to the new format, so all your previous stuff will work with the new one.
It seems that I have one chance at doing this. According to the little book that came with my new iMac: +The first time you turn on your iMac, Setup Assistant starts....If you don't use Setup Assistant to transfer information when you first start up, you can do it later by using Migration Assistant.+
It's really quite easy. Just take your time and it will be up and running fine in just a few minutes.
So this would have to be done before anything else, like hooking up my printer, or setting up the modem/internet?
Yes. Again, see the video (now that I gave you the right link). But you shouldn't have to do anything to set up your modem/internet, other than plug in the cable. It should just work. If your printer is compatible with Snow Leopard, it should just work, also.
Also note on the video link, there are a number of other video demonstrations available. After you get your shiny new Mac up and running, you might want to check them out, as there are some differences from Panther.
And you'll also want to explore backup strategies at some point, if you're not doing regular backups now.
Not to worry: it really is very quick and easy.

Getting Ready for Migration - Problem with BT ID

Hi,
I have read several e-mails from a recent thread on the forum which suggest that Migration of BT Yahoo e-mail accounts to the BT Mail service might resume sometime soon, and may even be completed by the end of April. Whether that will be so or not I guess we will have to wait and see. However, just in case, and for my account to be as ready as it can be, I need clarification of a particular potential problem.
I used to have two phone lines, let us say Line 1 and line 2. Now I only have one 'active' line (Line 1). Line 2 was cancelled a long time ago and my Broadband transferred to Line 1.
The above two lines had two seperate BT ID's (e-mail addresses). One being my Primary e-mail address which is one that ends @btinternet.com, but this remains the BT ID attached to Line 2 (the cancelled line).
The second BT ID, for Line 1, now my only line, has a User Name (e-mail address) which ends @gmail.com. The use of this e-mail address as the User Name was configured by a person on the BT Support Desk several years ago, when trying to resolve an issue at the time.
This morning I tried to change the User Name (e-mail address) on my BT ID for Line 1, so that it has the correct Primary e-mail address (ending @btinternet.com), I was unable to do so as the system said that this e-mail was already in use on another account (see above re cancelled line 2).
I can presently see no way that I can remove/delete/edit the account that covers the old cancelled line, so that it 'frees up' the use of my Primary e-mail address (@btinternet.com), enabling me to use it as the BT ID on my only remaining line (Line 1).
Is there a way I can cancel/delete/remove the now unused account? If not, is there a way for me to edit my Profile on Line 1, so that I can use my correct Primary e-mail as the ID, in preparation for the migration?
I apologise if this sound messy, but I want my account to be as 'clean' as possible, so that there are no potential problems when it finally comes to migration taking place.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Regards,
Alan

Hi,
First of all, thanks to whiskywheels for the well-intended suggestion. I appreciated the thought, but in my experience there is not a chance that just a phone call to BT Support whould have solved the problem. It was BT Phone Support that in part are responsible for creating the problem I now find myself with.
However, the reason for my coming back on this is to say that I had a phone call this afternoon from a MOD who I am absolutely certain was trying to be honest and helpful. The upshot of what she said is that no useful purpose would be served by changing my BT ID, as I only have one BT ID, not two as I intimated in my first e-mail in this thread (see message 1 of this thread for an explanation).
I do have two accounts (one live - with the only phone line I have) and (one dead and now unused, although I can still access its information in MyBT).
Following the MOD's advice, having nothing to this effect in writing, I will try not to quote her exactly (I don't want to fall foul of breaking any BT rules etc), but my understanding was that my Primary e-mail address, and several sub-accounts are all 'linked' to one BT ID she said I have, the one that ends [email protected] .
My reason for raising this in the first place was to be as prepared as I can be for Migration to BT Mail when it finally comes along.
I have however to admit to now being really confused. Maybe it is the case that I have confused what is an ID, and the use of e-mail addresses as an ID. What I mean by that is as follows:
Using the e-mail tab on the BT.Com homepage the login asks for BT ID or Email Address, and then a Password. If I then use the one BT ID I am told that I have, then subseqently add the current e-mail password, I get a message which says "We don't recognise your details. Please check you've entered your full email address and password correctly and try again."
When I try inputting my primary e-mail address (instead of the BT ID), and then the e-mail password as before (which did work ok this afternnon, but now will not) I currently get the predictable request to change my password. It's a nightmare to say the least, and fills me with no confidence whatsoever for when that fateful day of Migration finally arrives.
If the login that comes up after pressing the e-mail tab asks for a BT ID, why will that not work, if as the MOD says I only have one BT ID not the two that I had thought. I could go on, but I am sure you get the point, confusion reigns!
I would have much preferred that my BT ID was the same as my primary e-mail address, but the MOD in question said 'to the effect' that it was not necessary.
Any thoughts or advice??
Regards,
AlanF

Getting Ready for Co-existence

We have everyting in place and we are ready to change the URLs to put us into co-existence mode. We have the certs with the legacy san in it and its in place. Before we change all the URLs we'd like first just to test the Exchange 2013 redirection
when someone logs into Ex13 front end by editing the local host file to point to new ex13 IP. For exchange 2007, is that just simply changing the owa virtual directory internal AND external URLs on my 2007 cas servers? Once that is changed, do
we just restart IIS on those servers? Anything else we should be aware of?

Hi,
For the migration from the Exchange 2007 to Exchange 2013, we need change the external URLs with the new Exchange 2007 host name legacy.domain.com and migrate all mailboxes including public folders.
For more information about the migration, you can refer to the following articles:
http://blogs.technet.com/b/meamcs/archive/2013/07/25/part-3-step-by-step-exchange-2007-to-2013-migration.aspx
http://blogs.technet.com/b/meamcs/archive/2013/07/25/part-4-step-by-step-exchange-2007-to-2013-migration.aspx
If you have any question, please feel free to let me know.
Thanks,
Angela Shi
TechNet Community Support

Get ready for changes in dealer finacing

I have been following the car industry closely and subscribing to come industry journals etc. I am not sure what the policy is here in terms of posting content so I will summerize what we will see in terms of changes to dealer markups on interest. We all probably know that when a dealer arranges financing they often times add points to the interest they offer you so they can add to their profit. The feds are not happy about this practice because they see it as predatory and recent data shows that they mark up the interest disproportionatly on african americans, latinos and asians. The reality is they tend to do this to anyone with credit challanges or who is not sophisticated in these transactions. Today there is a story that Honda has agreed to pay 25 million to customers who were overcharged interest by dealers. As part of their stipulated agreement (where they admit no wrongdoing by the way) they are establishing a policy that their dealers can only charge 1-1.5% over the bank quote. The dealers hate that the feds are in their business in this regard and are putting their lobbyists to work to try and get the feds to back off because this is a big part of their profit. I think it is a sleezy practice so my reccomendation is to always get a preapproval from a credit union or a bank. There are times where due to credit challanges you can't get that done and need the dealers help, if you are in that situation make sure you understand that the APR is negotiable, often times they will offer a lower APR if you take an add on like a warranty. Once they quote that APR you know that is the APR your really qualified for. Thought this was an interesting development and worthy of some discussion for those who are in the market.

StartingOver10 wrote:
oblackhawko wrote:
There have been threats of "Flat Fees" instead of Points for dealerships for a while now. Each lender is a litte different with underwriting guidelines. and yes Honda did get slapped with a fine but that's the government showing their constituents their teeth. It was because there was a statistical difference between different demographics. It could be they are charging them more or they are charging them LESS. And you would say "It's definitely not LESS because that wouldn't make any sense" well the dealership I work at got a call and they said we were charging women a "Statistically significant difference in pricing" What was the difference? 25 basis points LESS than everyone else (.25%) and they suggest we change some policies etc. NADA has already suggested to their members how to protect your dealership. People think it's huge difference in APR between "discrimination" but all it needs to be is some type of difference. APR sometimes is negotiable, depending on lender and your tier. higher tier (6,7,8): less to no negotiations. In RE: StartingOver10: Extended Service Contracts cannot be tied to the approval of the LOAN, the APR is a separate issue. Contracts that have Extended Service Contracts perform better than contracts that have no ESC.^^^What do you mean by that statement highlighted above? If you are using third party lenders (eg Chase, WF etc) you would not know the performance of the loan unless you had some sort of buy back arrangement if the loan defaulted. The obvious difference would be in you were in a BHPH type lot where you service the loan and the vehicle. That is what prompted my question to you. What report do you get from the lender that ties the two together? [Note, you can tell I am not a fan of ESC because I want to be able to shop for any service I get with no restrictions. I don't want to pay thousands of dollars up front for a 'warranty' that has many exclusions. But that is just me. Others prefer to have a ESC.]Neither am I. I bought my first new car in 1971 and have purchased probably several dozen since then and have never had a ESC. I've never needed one and IMO that's pretty good odds I will never need one in the future. But in the end it's like any other kind of insurance. We each have to decide if we think we'll need it and go from there.

Getting ready for Infinity ?

Hi,
I've just checked on-line and found that I can not get Infinity at 55mb.
However, It's stating that this can only be connected to my master socket in the hallway ( I have no poer in the hallway) and I use my current Hub3 in my office at the back of the house.
I've had a look at the master socket and there appears to be a Cat5 cable going out of the back of the socket, directly outside and around the house, coming into my office and directly into another wall socket.
With this in place will I be able to have the Infinity installation in my office ?
Regards
Derek

true some of the contractors are like that if you get an Openreach engineer you should have no problem
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