Getting two videos to match

I'm trying to do a project I've done numerous times with iMovie '06. I can't do it easily with iMovie '09, so I thought I'd give Final Cut Express a try. Except I'm having problems, so if anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it.
What I do is record a Christmas children's program with two different camcorders - one stays stationary and records the whole stage (camcorder #A), the other is closer and moves to get closer shots of everyone (camcorder #B).
With iMovie '06, I would:
(1) Export the audio from camcorder #B and reimport it as a separate audio track.
(2) Edit the videos for each so they'd have the same length, starting point, ending point and their audios would perfectly match.
(3) I would then find the spots where the camcorder #B was moving and copy video from camcorder #A and paste it over those spots.
Now with Final Cut Express, it makes step (1) unnecessary and it makes step (3) easier, but I'm having trouble accomplishing step (2). How do I match up the audios of two video clips in FCE?
Anybody got any advice?
Thanks in advance.
Message was edited by: DeanM

Hi there Dean,
You'll find the process may be even easier in FCE. Here's what I'd do to match up the two clips:
1. Put the video of the zoomed out stage on track V1, and put the video from the moving camera on track V2.
2. Locate a frame in both videos that is clearly the same, e.g. a camera flash or other quick movement.
3. Highlight the video on track V2 with the playhead over that frame, and hit the "M" key to add a marker.
4. Now switch off visibility for track V2, and find the same frame on track V1. Highlight the clip and add a marker on that frame by pressing "M."
5. Drag the two video clips on the timeline so that the two markers you placed line up. If you have Snapping enabled the two markers should snap together so that the clips are synced but on different tracks.
6. Now go through the movie and decide which parts of the moving clip on V2 you don't want. Use the *Blade Tool* (b) to cut out these parts and delete them.
You will then have a timeline with the parts of the video on V1 you would like to see showing through, and the parts of the clip on V2 you would like to see covering up the same part in V1 so that only the clip on V2 shows. Hold down the Option key and select the audio track you want to delete, and delete it so that there is only one audio.
You may find that Piero's [Quarter PIP|http://web.mac.com/piero.fiorani/PieroFFCE_Effect/QuarterPIP.html] filter helps you with step number 6, as it will reduce the clips to make them smaller so that you can accurately judge which parts of the clip on V2 are better than those same parts on track V1.
Sorry if my explanation was confusing, if you have any questions about what I said ask away!

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http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/9231/screenshot20111027at122d.png
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So hi! I've been using premiere for about a year, I came from Sony Vegas Pro.
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Craig,
I strongly agree. Back in those days, I never felt comfortable with video, even if we recorded it to 2" tape. I could not hold that up to the light and see my images! It was "the devil's work." Back then, there was no deck-to-deck editing, and only doing a diagonal cut and tape job - but you could not really see where you were cutting.
Regarding NLE work nowadays, like you, I'd only go back for a "trip down memory lane." I can do on a simple laptop, 10,000 more things than I could ever do on an 8-plate Moviola - things that I could not even imagine back then. Had I been given a peak at PrPro in 2010, back in '72, I would never have been able to either believe it, or comprehend it.
You know, every time that I see the word Bin, I can conjure up those laundry "bins," with racks above and either clips or clothes pins. I also remember squinting to try and read the cryptic notes in grease pencil at the head of each in the darkened edit booth. "is that a 5, or an 8? Oh SHOOT, I just smudged it!"
Don't get me started on mixed formats. I'd never have considered mixing 8mm (split-16), S-8, 16mm and a bit of 35mm in an edit. Only recourse was a trip to the lab for prints, and we always knew that quality was going to differ greatly. Now, we just run the stuff through a conversion program, Import and edit happily, or nearly so.
Yes, I will take that random crash/hang, and smile. If the Moviola crashed, we had to fly a tech from Dallas and then hold our breath. Of course we could jump over to our rewinds and splicing block, and still get a bit of work done - the "old fashioned way."
The kids have no idea of easy they have it - right on their desktops. I envy them, 'cause they started with NLE and probably have creative ideas, that I will never have, just 'cause I still have a slightly closed view of things. I envy them!
OK, back to our regularly scheduled programming...
Hunt

Can PE3 synchronize two video sources for post edit AB roll?

In PE3, is there a way to synchronize two digital video files (AVI) to create a AB roll type post edit. My two captured video files seem to have different frame speeds or frame durations. How do I align and frame match 2 video sources? The situation is a 2 camera shoot. How to best create an AB roll edit of the 2 videos sources with audio from one video file as the common element?

Wes,
Armed with Steve's article, you should be able to do what you want.
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Iv'e tried two different monitors but he same problem. If my graphics card does not suport 2 monitors then why is there a DVI D socket?
Have never had this problem in the past!
Please help.
Nobby

Hi,
Please post the exact HP product number for your PC.
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HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
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Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
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The effect you are looking for is 'Picture in Picture'. If you want the gap to be there for the duration of the timeline add some 'black video' - from the Tasks Pane> New Item - on the video track above the main track. Resize / position it to where you wish it to be.
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Do the same sizing / positioning for it.
split video and audio and delete or disable the audio.
Cut it where you want the various start/ends of the fade to be.
Delete, or just disable (right-click) the unnecessary segments.
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[EDIT]
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[/EDIT]
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Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children

How to Get In & Out of Match, Get your Downloads and Run

How to Get In & Out of Match, Get your Downloads and Run
So you have read the marketing hype, and are thinking what you really want is to pay for the service to upgrade your low quality bitrate files to a bit better 256KBPS rate easily, as don’t fancy rebuying/ reimporting or other method
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It assumes you’re working from your main music library, and know something about IT, and have <25k of music files
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If you know how to do this, its simple right – so once done then move to step 2, if not read below so you don’t blame me for a loss
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your choice the transfer hardware, suggest offline harddrive via USB3.0 (blue USB connector/eSata/ 1494b/1GB NIC/etcetera but your call
If you use USB2.0/ 100MB NIC/1394a or other lower transfer method, accept the time hit
Don’t use Time Backup/local disk backup software unless you have RAID 5 setup or better (and if wondering what that is, you almost certainly don’t then)
Don’t use internet backup service unless you live next door to the hosting company, with stunning internet connection to envy 99.9% of the human race, remember this is the fast method folks)
Transfer Software
I am assuming you know how to do a copy n paste/ robocoby/xcopy/drag n drop or whatever method turns you on via finder/explorer/cmd window ect
Caveat #01: If not sure how to do above, then stop now as you are not IT literate ready for this
Find your music files and back them up
Now keep the computer running, preferably with nothing else running from this point for ease of use bar an active internet connection, and power saving switched off
If you know where the files are great, backup the files, but some don’t so for them as below
Caveat #02: if you don’t know how to find them your most likely on default settings, or sitting with a legacy from a past upgraded machine - below should help but you might want to stop now if you have never been curious about the location before
Within iTunes , go to [Edit/Preferences/Advanced] and note down the location shown for Itunes Media Location
In the same location of preferences, hit [Keep iTunes Media Folder organised] and let the application do its stuff. You will end up with the location in 1ciii a ready to copy location which for simplicity of topic, copy the whole folder and its subfolders. You may end up with some extra copies of music files (an iTunes safety mechanism, but it won’t show in the folder location, and we can ignore later on)
Enable Match (after paying for the service)
Run Match
Accept that the Apple iTunes process is not perfect, may crash/stop/pause and reboots will be needed, and we can move on so to speak. Key here is you cannot do an unattended script or assume no end user interaction needed L
Turn on iTunes Match, notice the new ITunes Match on the left hand sidebar, click it, then hit the Start button – if it works and you eventually get to STEP 3 perfect.
If it fails before getting to STEP 3, reboot and restart
If this still fails to get to STEP 3, then create a new iTunes database (browse forums on how to do), read your media files from the location in 1civ
Stop MATCH (the upload process only, not the service)
Once STEP 3 starts, CLICK STOP - ASAP, as all this does it upload data, and you don’t want to do this, just get your upgraded files (remember the title of this entry your reading!)
This also avoids future issues with Album art lost
Delete Matched low bitrate files
Create a NEW SMART playlist, with two criteria
Show all files with bitrate is less then 256
Show all files where iCloud status is MATCHED
In the new playlist, click it and it shows the files we want to blow away.
Click Edit / Select All then
Click ctrl in windows/apple (cmd) logo in mac, and press delete button, ensuring you do NOT tick the delete from iCloud Option. Now want a few mins for it do do its stuff.
Download Upgraded BitRate Files
In the same location as 5, reselect all, and right click, and select the option to download all, and off it goes
On the lefthand sidebar in iTunes, click Downloads, and you will then see in the middle bottom screen an option for simultaneous downloads (select it)
Your done Just let the app now do its stuff. I would ignore the message saying you can get on with other things, and use anther machine, preferably not using the same internet connection.
Optional Steps:
Click randomly from the Itunes/Matched/256KBPS listed files, and play them. Not all the files, one every 30 or so, and just the start, then last few seconds to check not dead or corrupt files.
Update your Step 1 backup with the new files, which is going to take up more space, guess at 40%.
Kill your iTunes Match account (both the recurring automatic subscription, and the account if not continuing to use the store part of iTunes)

bump

How do I get my videos to upload from my sony handy cam when I get the message The following file could not be imported. The file is in an unrecognized format. I am using a macbook pro version 10.9.3, I have 411 gb free space, it worked before I updated

How do I get my videos to upload from my sony handy cam when I get the message The following file could not be imported. The file is in an unrecognized format. I am using a macbook pro version 10.9.3, I have 411 gb free space, it worked before I downloaded the latest update for iphoto.

You may be able to download and install the update from here: Digital Camera RAW Compatibility 6.01
If I upgrade to Yosemite will I be forced to go to the new Photos program
No. After upgrading (and of course make a back up first) you will need to update iPhoto to v9.6.1 (you won't be able to do this prior to upgrading). Here's how:
Go to the App Store and check out the Purchases List. If iPhoto is there then it will be v9.6.1
If it is there, then drag your existing iPhoto app (not the library, just the app) to the trash
Install the App from the App Store.
Sometimes iPhoto is not visible on the Purchases List. it may be hidden. See this article for details on how to unhide it.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4928
One question often asked: Will I lose my Photos if I reinstall?
iPhoto the application and the iPhoto Library are two different parts of the iPhoto programme. So, reinstalling the app should not affect the Library. BUT you should always have a back up before doing this kind of work. Always.
Photos is v1 of a new app, as yes it's not as mature as iPhoto. It uses a different technology for working with external editors. That requires Adobe to write an extension to let it hook into the new app. Not done yet, neither has anyone else.
Going forward: iPhoto will run on OS 10.10., but there is no guarantee for subsequent versions of the OS. You might want to factor that into your anger term thinking.

I can't get two "room" objects to "glue" together in a floor plan

I can 't get two rooms to "glue" together in Visio 2010.
I've tried several ways to drag the "room" objects and handles around the floor plan but not only do the rooms not glue to each other, they snap or glue to other things (like ruler divisions), making it almost impossible to get the room walls to
overlap cleanly.
I found a forum posting somewhere where the respondent only suggested verifying default settings and I matched mine up with those, but that thread went cold without a solution.
What settings are required, and what steps are required, to glue two "room" objects together in Visio 2010?
Wayne Erfling (aka Cornan The Iowan)

Thanks, George,
You began your message with a question, but I think you understand "why I would want rooms to snap together", thus your work-around.
Nonetheless, the "big answer" is that I want to set the
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I started out by creating several rooms with correct dimensions (which I then locked with Developer / Protection).
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But still, Visio 2010 is better for this purpose than CorelDraw and far better than "SmartDraw", and I don't have any CAD software. I just doubt that Microsoft has made Visio 2013 any better - Microsoft
seems to flip between simple maintenance releases and "grand" rewrites, failing to embrace anything like "continuous improvement".
Finally, the ribbon, a "blonde" solution at best, is particularly horrible in Visio - much of my work on this drawing has required me to switch among ribbon tabs.
Sorry for the rant, George, but anything I can learn to help with these issues will make the remainder of the job better.
Wayne Erfling (aka Cornan The Iowan)

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