Good Power Supply?

Reading these posts i found that many problems are solved by getting a new psu. Can anyone plz tell me if what i have is good enough to work with the K7N2 Delta-Ilsr.
400watt
115v/230v
+5v 30A
+12v 16A
-5v 0.3A
-12v 0.5A
+3.3V 14A
+5VSB 2.0A
These are all the numbers that are said on my psu.

While much depends on your COMBINED rating of the 3.3V and 5V rails (which should be printed on the label), I can tell from the separate readings that your supply is too weak.
If you intend to run an nForce2 board and a videocard, an Antec True480 is really the minimum you should choose.
My sig shows my recommendation, though. You don't want to run your supply anywhere near peak output for any length of time, and you want to allow for possible future upgrades as well.
I did an EXHAUSTIVE research, and ended up buying the Antec True550. Excluding dual mini redundant power supplies (VERY expensive), the 550 was the ONLY PSU to match my criteria. (And I've been in the computer/electronic hardware biz for 25 years.)
Check the True550 out at Pricegrabber.com. I got mine fr $95 shipped a couple of months ago; the price might even be lower now. Don't flinch at the price, either; a good PSU is the best insurance against potential future problems that you'll otherwise never be able to fix. Why spend $60 now and $90 later, when you can spend $90 now?
In order to best approximate your future PSU needs, check out this link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
Make certain to check every applicable box, and if you, say, OC an XP2500 to 3000 levels, select the 3000 processor. Same idea with video adapters, ram, etc. Also, if you have a built-in LAN port, check the Lan card box, because you still use the power...same with soundcard if you use built in sound, etc.
When you're done, look at the bottom and add 30% to that figure, and you'll have the rating of the supply that's right for you.

Similar Messages

See the what a good power supply looks like

I thought this was a kinda cool comparison of power supplies. I guess sometimes you really get what you pay for. )
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pdf/Turbo-Cool_510_vs.pdf

FYI:The Silencer 400 ATX/ATX12V is the exact same Power Supply inside as the 510 they just use a quieter less powerful fan so they derate it as a 400 watt. They have the exact same MTBF and specs. People have put a Panaflo fan into them to get more power and still provide a quiet PS this would probably void your 3 year warranty. This can save you a few $ though.:D

How to pick a good power supply?

I ordered my 875p Neo-FISR with an Aspire X-Dreamer case. The case is budget, but it does a decent job of cooling my system (cpu temps: 25c-40c). The only problem is, I'm using the 350w Turbolink PSU (better named POS) that came with the case.
My turbolink: +3.3V@24A;+5V@35A;+12V@12A
I have some money to spare so I'd like to buy a high quality PSU close to 500.
Here are a few of my options:
Enermax 460W EG465P-VE(FC):
+3.3V@35A;+5V@35A;-5V@1A;+12V@33A;-12V@1A;[email protected]
(Enermax sounds like a favorite on these forums, but it's a bit pricy...)
Fortron 530W FSP530-60GNA:
+3.3V@30/17A,+5V@44/24A,[email protected],+12V@16/28A,[email protected],+5VSB@2A
(Fortron won the Anandtech PSU Roundup so I thought I'd consider it.)
Antec 480W TRUE480BLUE:
+3.3V@30A;+5V@38A;[email protected]; +12V@22A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A
(Good PSU brand name)
Enermax $$$ > Antec $$$ >> Fortron $$$
The funny thing is, turbolink was ripped to shreds by Anandtech so I KNOW I have to replace my PSU. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Bonus points to anyone who can explain the volt/amp numbers and why they are important.

As Raven has posted, get the Enermax 460W and save yourself a lot of hassle in the future. I use it, I love it.
To "try" and explain voltages and such, well I'm not sure what you mean, but I will explain what I can.
+12V : The most important of them all since this one powers the processor, vid card, all fans and some other stuff I don't know of.
+5V : Dunno what this one is for. Maybe powering the mobo itself and the chipsets?
+3.3V: Powers your ram. Dunno what else it does.
Hope this helps.
Oh, and to everybody reading this, please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

Is this power supply good?

A friend of mine wants me to build him a very similar system to the one i have but he's going to get a x800pro card instead of my 9800pro. I'm thinking of ordering the Antec True Blue 480 PSU for him. Do you guys think this is a good power supply? Any comments are appreciated.

So the older ones could actually be quieter?
An aluminium case is not as good for absorbing vibrational noises as a steel case but because i have back problems i can't lift a heavier case. It's hard to build a good looking, lightweight, powerful and quiet computer today because things just work against each other so much. But that's my idea of perfection.

Upgrading Soon / Power Supply Question

I will upgrading soon to a K8N Neo Platinum socket 754 and either a 3200 or 3400 64bit processor.
Will my current power supply be good enough. I have an Enermax EG465P-VE 431W power supply right now.
3.3v is 38a
+5v is 44a
+12v is 20a
Thanks

Quote
Originally posted by buttasuperb
Yea I got my current power supply about 8 months ago and I'm sure it was older stock.
Quote
Originally posted by splitThis is an older one..
One of these.
Specifications: Model: EG465AX-VE W-FMA. AC Input: 100~240V, 50~60HZ, 9.5A~2.5A. DC Output: +3.3V/38A; +5V/44A; +12V/33A; -5V/1A; -12V/1A; +5VSb/2.2A; +3.3V& 5V/220W. Total power: 433W
That would be a good power supply to get for my new rig, right? I was thinking of getting a new power supply anyways, since I was gonna build another computer with some older parts. This way I can keep some stuff in the old case, and just buy a new case/PSU for my new stuff.
You'll have a job.
Note on that page..
Availability: This item has been discontinued and will no longer be available.
Seen a lot of people in the UK ranting how good these are.
Single rail as well

I need to get a replacement power supply. Where would I go?

Any ideas out there?

I got a 12 volt and plug but nothing worked
Did you first check the power supply with a voltage tester to make sure that you were getting 12 volts?
If you did, then you know that the external power supply was working correctly.
However....If the internal power supply board is shot on the AirPort Exteme, plugging a good power supply into the back of the Extreme will not fix it.

S5-1554 Dead - power supply?

Computer found dead. Tried start button, no response. Followed hp troubleshooting guide: power supply has solid green light, and when paper clip placed across p1-17 and ground, power supply fan came on. However, when reconnected and push start button absolutely nothing happens. Once, all fans started to spin up for about one second, but stopped. Troubleshooting guide says if power supply fan comes on when the p1-17 to ground connected, the power supply should be good, and should then consider motherboard, memory, other causes. However, I'm skeptical. My gut still says it is the power supply. I have an older computer that died but has a good power supply that wouldn't fit, would it work to connect to see if it would power up just as a test? Other thoughts before starting to swap out parts as diagnostic?

Grumpy44, welcome to the forum. I agree with you that it could be the PSU. I have heard of PSU's working using the paper clip, but still not being good enough to power the computer. If you try to use your old PSU make certain that the ATX Power connector is correct. Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.

Upgrading POWER SUPPLY

My Lenovo 3000 J110 (Type 7393) come with a Liteon 280W ATX power supply. Ther is no more option in Lenovo part list more than 280W. Can I change the power supply to a bigger one (like 400W)?

there is nothing wrong with just upgrading to a better power supply only thing is it might use a little more energy
but it is a good idea to get a good power supply since the one it comes with is small and most vid cards will ask for more power

Xserve G5 power supply ? problem

Well I bought a dead G5 Xserve on eBay (yeah, I know). followed the "system completely dead…" check in the Xserve repair PDF. Battery was dead, replaced that and reset PMU, nothing. Checked for voltage across the power supply pins. The only reasonable way I could find to do this with the power supply installed was to remove the bracket that holds the retaining thumbscrew, this exposes the solder joints for the pins on top of the connector. Checked for voltage across pins 1 and 8 and came up with zero. Bought a used "working" power supply on eBay and installed that along with a new battery, reset the PMU, checked for voltage at my power cord, plugged it in and pushed the start button. Fans came on lights blinking away as there was no RAM installed. Shut it down. Boughtt a couple of gigs of RAM and installed that along with a video card from a B & W G3 yosemite tower that was confirmed by a couple of sources as a cheap way to get video out. All of this installing and removing following ESD precautions. Pushed the start button…nothing. Removed both the RAM and the card…nothing. Checked for voltage at those pins—nothing. Bought a new in box Apple repair kit with a power supply, fan array and PCI fan. Installed all three of those with a fresh battery, reset PMU, pushed the start button…wait for it…nothing. Checked the power supply pins, zip for voltage. These parts looked to be brand new, free of any dust or signs of human meddling. Now even if every other part of this machine was trash, I should still get some trickle power out of a good power supply—yes? Am I really missing the boat here? I have checked the front panel connections and that the button actually presses the switch. Checked the connectoion from the MLB to the interconnect board and they are all clean, sound connections. This thing is in imaculate condition, no corrosion of any kind on the logic board or anywhere else. It is the revised MLB with the 2Gig RAM printed on it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ted

William,
Straight from Apple's web site...
http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/
Which iMac G5 computers are affected by the iMac G5 Repair Extension Program for Video and Power Issues?
The program is available for certain iMac G5 models that were sold between approximately September 2004 and June 2005 featuring 17- and 20-inch displays with 1.6GHz and 1.8GHz G5 processors.
Steve

Does power supply good for 8800GT\9600GT?

hi to all.
i have this power supply
http://www.k-mex.com/Webforms/ProductInfoPage.aspx?KindNo=0000000005&ProductNo=0000000048 (500W)
does this power supply meet the minimum reqiurd for ge-force 8800GT or even to ge-force 9600GT?

To use one of those cards I would say a Corsair VX450W that has +12V~33A single rail would be good choice in the $70-$80 price range. If you were to get 8800 Ultra then a VX550W +12V~41A rail would be better choice. PC Power & Cooling single rails are also very good choice. If you're in the U.S. check newegg for prices as they had some specials going.
>> PC P & C 610 << >> Corsair VX450W << >> Corsair VX550W <<

New 8800GTX OC, Power supply good enough?

I bought this http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=28550
It has 3, 12V rails all at 18A each.. 2 6 pin connectors, SLI ready, 550 Watts.... I was told having 2 or more Rails at 18A each would be sufficient enough, or 1 30A rail..
Is 3, 12V rails at 18A each good enough for the 8800GTX OC?

504 watts divided by 12 volts = 42 amps. That 42 amps is spread over three 12 volt rails that have a limit of 18 amps apiece. If you have two 12v rails drawing close to their maximun of 18 amps then the third rail only has 6 amps available for anything that is connected to it.
That is why I suggested that you do some trial and error in order to spread the load more evenly over the three rails. Normally the motherboard's power is provided by one rail leaving the other two rails on a three rails power supply to feed hard drives, optical drives, fans, video cards and anything else that needs 12v power.
You should have plenty of power to run your system but being careful about how things get their power leads to a more stable system that will last longer.

Power Supply Help for 466mhz G4 - where can i get a good deal.

I need to find a replacement for the power supply in the machine. It is an original 466mhz g4, agp graphics. The power supply says 126w max and had AC BEL on it.
Can anyone help me out in finding a cheap place to get a power supply that fits this machine perfectly? Looking for a reputable dealer (obviously).
Thanx in advance.

Hi Nelson,
You're machine is a Digital Audio (the only G4 to have shipped with 466MHz processors), and the PSU is 338W - which should be adequate for most things. Why do you need a new power supply?
If you need a new one, it won't be cheap. You can try this place:
http://www.dvwarehouse.com/G4-Power-Supply-c-238_476.html
Hope this helps,
-Travis

I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug. Cold now. Could it just be the power supply? Can I replace that myself?

This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box.
I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica. Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house. I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip. There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
First questions: Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
Next question: Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service? How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder. I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook. My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed. I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
Thanks for any help you can give.

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

Good Power Supply?

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