GT80 SSD drive died, options ?

my 5 month old GT80 had a SSD drive failure and it will no longer boot, the BIOS only sees 1 of the 2 SSD drives.
was wondering if it would be possible to rebuild a new SSD array using RAID 1, so that if one drive fails again .. the other drive will still function.

Quote from: xamax_in_dc on 22-May-15, 02:34:17
... that is great news. what would be the choices in the bios I would need to choose to setup the new drives that way? I have been advised that I would also need to disable secure boot to reinstall the OS. ...
Hi Michael,
I can share the main steps but not the details because we're using Windows 7 and therefore the old-style "legacy" version of the BIOS. This also means we're using the "legacy" version of the Intel Rapid Storage Technology (IRST) Option ROM. If I'm not mistaken, the Intel IRST is probably integrated into the UEFI version of the system BIOS that you're using with Windows 8.1.
Both the legacy and UEFI versions affect the same settings in the Titan's CMOS. But the legacy versions, unfortunately, have less features. You'll definitely want to stay with Win 8.1 and the UEFI BIOS if you want to overclock or use some of the newer features that were never ported to the legacy interface.
So here are the steps, in principle:
1 - From the Titan system BIOS, set the "SATA Mode Selection" to "RAID". The system BIOS is invoked by pressing and holding the Delete key (below the Insert key) during bootup.
2 - From the Intel Rapid Storage Technology (IRST) Option ROM, use the "Create a RAID Volume" menu command to create a Recovery Volume. If you're given a choice to set the frequency that the Recovery Volume will be updated, set it to "Continuous" so it will behave like a RAID-1 mirror.
Note: A RAID Volume may still be configured in your IRST settings since you originally had a striped RAID-0 array. You may need to delete this volume first before you can create the new one for the Recovery Volume.
With the "legacy" version of the IRST and BIOS, the Titan boot sequence goes like this: First the IRST screen appears to notify you if all drivers are enabled and working properly. While this screen is displayed, we have to quickly press Ctrl + I to launch the IRST Option ROM so we can create the RAID volume and configure the Recovery Volume. I believe the UEFI system is different and you may access the IRST from inside it (the same place where the system BIOS settings are controlled).
For help, my advice is that you contact the MSI distributor where you purchased your Titan. If they're good, they may know how to do this and may even do it for you. Depending on your location in the world, you may be contacting them anyway to get your bad SSD replaced. Since you've had your Titan for only 5 months, it should still be under warranty.
Here's a Tip: When you partition your SSDs, only partition 90% of their capacity. Leave 10% unpartitioned. Why? Because SSDs use "wear leveling" to prevent premature failure due to over-use of some sectors. Leaving part of the SSD unused, allows the wear leveling system to use it as needed to replace sectors that begin to go bad. It also helps keep your SSD running with top performance. Without it, your SSDs will gradually slow over their life.
We've built lots of computers and configured many RAID arrays. But we're late to the SSD scene and wanted to get off on the right foot. So we purchased our GT80 Titan-001 in the U.S. from Xotic PC. They configured the RAID arrays for us. That way the system could be tested as intended before delivery. They did an excellent job and we highly recommend them.
Buying a Replacement M.2 SSD
This is new to most of us and if you're not careful, you can purchase the wrong thing. Our Titans are designed to use an M.2 SATA-3 SSD with a 2280 size (22 mm wide x 80 mm long). It's edge connector must be keyed with both a "B" key and an "M" key. These "keys" are simply slots in the edge connector which identify the type of device to the Titan. Both the 2280 size and the keys are very important because M.2 SATA-3 SSDs also come in other sizes and some have only one of the two keys required by the Titan.
If you have to purchase your own M.2 SSD, the first thing to do is to remove your defective one so you'll see what it looks like. All four M.2 slots are located under the Titan's top cover. You remove two screws on the bottom of the Titan case to release the top cover. Then slide the top cover to the right (as you face the front of the Titan) and lift it away. It will slide very easily if you've removed the correct two screws (they're identified with a small HD/RAM symbol---one is in the rear left corner as you face the upside-down Titan's bottom cover and the other is located next to the subwoofer grille).
There is much confusion about the M.2 standard (we only recently figured it out, ourselves). You'll see the MSI literature refer to them as mSATA slots which is incorrect. The mSATA standard came first and is still in use. The M.2 is a new standard that improves on mSATA---but it is not mSATA. Both mSATA and M.2 can accommodate a variety of interfaces from PCIe to SATA. All four of the M.2 slots in the Titan are SATA-3 which means they are also backward compatible with SATA-1 and SATA-2. But you probably won't see any M.2 SSDs that use these older, slower SATA standards because M.2 is so new.
What makes both mSATA and M.2 different from the SSDs made to replace conventional 2.5" HDs in standard SATA bays of notebooks is that the mSATA and M.2 have no case---their circuitry and memory chips are exposed. The goal is to make SSDs and other devices that use mSATA and M.2 smaller and easier to cool than the old 2.5" form factor. That way they fit in ever smaller and thinner devices. M.2, as the newest standard, offers the greatest variety in size (both smaller and larger) and better utilization of its size and layout. When MSI chose M.2, they chose the newest, most advanced of these standards.
But we've discovered one (to us) serious drawback for M.2 SSDs: The largest M.2 SSD that you can presently get for the 2280 size is 512 GB. We desperately wanted a 1 TB capacity (which is available for mSATA) but it simply isn't available for a 2280 M.2---yet. If you're using a striped RAID-0 array, this is not a problem---you can combine four 512 GB M.2 SSDs into an MSI Super RAID 3 configuration in the Titan and have a 2 TB drive! But striped RAID is way too risky for our application so we're sticking with mirrored RAID-1 because it provides the protection and quick recovery that we need. Our consolation is that, with four M.2 slots, we can have two mirrored RAID-1 arrays and we'll eventually replace the second one with two 512 GB SSDs to get our 1 TB total capacity (a 512 GB RAID-1 in "Recovery" mode for drive "C" and a 512 GB standard RAID-1 for drive "D").
But that's not all: Not many folks know this---but you can also get a RAID case for a 2.5" SATA bay. It has the same size as a 2.5" hard drive case and it holds two mSATA SSDs. Since you can get mSATA SSDs in 1 TB capacities, you could create a 1 TB mirrored RAID-1 array for the 2.5" bay that is also solid state. So, if your application requires the protection of mirrored RAID and you need all possible capacity, you could achieve a total mirrored storage of 2 TB using three arrays in the Titan.
Kind regards, David

Similar Messages

  • No Erase option in Disk Utility for an SSD Drive!

    Hi guys,
    Made a time machine copy on a 500gb external hard drive of my 13" MBP with a HDD currently in it.
    Then took my 500gb SSD from an old 15" MBP, removed the HDD and put it in my 13" MBP.
    Opened up 13" MBP in restore mode. Chose restore from time machine back up.
    Choose the time machine external drive as source. Then chose the SSD drive to restore to.
    Said it was erasing the drive... Asked for a password...
    I typed in my usual password. It then said the SSD drive couldn't be erased.
    Took the SSD out and put the original HDD back in.
    Plugged the SSD into a firewire 800 caddy to try erase it in disk utility as an external.
    This drive will show up in disk utility but the erase option isn't available.
    I can repair the disk but it says the disk is perfectly fine.
    I can click on the partition option but everything is greyed out and I can't partition it at all.
    This drive will now no longer show up on the desktop or finder.
    This is driving me crazy!
    Just want to erase the SSD, use time machine to restore onto it and get busy.
    Please help!
    Thanks,
    Chris

    Aha! I only looked at 'format' list, didn't notice the 'option' list.
    problem solved.
    thank you !

  • I have replaced my old hard drive with a new SSD drive. Can I restore a complete Time Machine backup

    I have replaced my old hard drive on a MacBook Pro midyear 2010 with a new SSD drive. I have a complete system backup of my old drive in an external hard drive using Time Machine.
    Questions that I would like to get answered.
    1) Can I connect my external hard drive to the macbook pro and use that to boot up my machine by pressing and holding down the Options key? Once booted up successfully, can I use Disk Utility to format the new SSD and then restore the complete time machine backup?
    2) If that is not possible, can I use my old drive which I can connect using a USB adapter and use that to boot up by following the same strategy as listed in Step#1 above?
    3) If neither options are possible, do I need to use a bootable USB drive for Mavericks OS X to boot up the machine,
    I have Mavericks OS X ( 10.9.6) and I do not have a DVD of the OS.
    Any help is appreciated.

    Let me first document the steps that did not work and then I will document the steps that worked.
    1) Replaced the hard drive with SSD.
    2) Connected the original hard drive using a USB adapter to the MacBook to make it behave like an external device.
    3) Powered on the machine and on hearing the chime pressed Command-R to start in recovery mode.
    4) Chose the Disk Utility option to erase and format the SSD. The format chosen was Mac OS Extended Journaled.
    5) Once the formatting was done, then clicked on the "Restore" tab in Disk Utility
    6) In the Source field, dragged my original hard drive from the left pane and placed it in the field
    7) On the destination field, choose the new SSD drive. Clicked on "Restore". Gave me a warning, accepted the warning and the restore was under way.
    8) I had 236 GB to restore so took 3.5 hours before it was done.
    9) Disconnected the external hard drive ( my original internal HDD), shut down the machine and powered on again.
    10) Heard the chime and after that it was a white screen with no Apple logo.
    Was visibly upset and started thinking what my next move will be. Then tried these steps
    1) Again powered off the machine.
    2) Connected my internal HDD once more as an external drive
    3) Powered on and on hearing the chime, pressed Command-R as before
    4) Once the OS X utilities screen popped up, this time chose Install OS X
    5) Erased the contents of SSD once more and reformatted it using Mac OS Extended Journaled.
    6) Installed OS X by following the prompts.
    7) Once the OS was installed, I was presented with an option on how to transfer data to this new Mac
    8) Chose the option to move the data from my original HDD.
    9) Took another 3 hours to move the data.
    10) Removed the original HDD once the transfer was complete, powered down the machine and started it once more.
    11) Booted successfully and all my content is now accessible on the new SSD.
    Moral of the story - It is the spirit that counts.

  • Does anybody have a functioning 17" mbp with a 6Gb/s SSD drive?

    I ordered a MacBookPro 17" (June 2011) with the 7200rpm hard drive which is a slow drive, but comes at no extra cost with the machine.
    The ssd's Apple ships with the mbp's are relatively slow and expensive, so I do not consider them an option. I therefore ordered an OWC Mercury Pro 6G (240GB) sata3 SSD drive and replaced the hard drive with it. Under both Snow Leopard and Lion I get beach balls almost continuously. Installing the ssd in a co-workers 15" mbp makes the drives work at over 500 mb/s, so the drive is not the problem.
    I explained this to the people at AppleCare's helpdesk and they state, since I used a non Apple item, they can't help me. They tell me to go to a local reseller and have them install the ssd for me. This way the mbp is still valid for AppleCare. The local reseller won't touch my mbp since I bought it online at Apple (and not at his store), plus I did not buy the OWC drive in his store. In short, AppleCare is useless here. They claim I should've ordered one of the Apple ssd's (which are basically sata2 drives).
    Since the 17" mbp supports sata3 and has the fastest processors of the mbp range (which is why I bought it in the first place) I do not understand why Apple would force me to 'downgrade' to a non current ssd. I work with large 3D drawing files as well as multilayered large photoshop files, so having a fast drive is very beneficial to my workflow. The hardware in the 13" and 15" mbp's support the functionality of a 6G ssd in practice, whereas the 17" mbp only does that on paper. Selling my 17" and swapping it for a 15" model seems the only option but I refuse to believe a company that claims to be technologically advanced can ignore having specifications that only work on paper. There is no record, comment or even gossip of Apple indicating this is a problem, let alone they are working on a fix, despite finding numerous forums online where people have the same problem I have.
    So for the record, on the official Apple Support site, directed to both Apple developers and users:
    Is there anybody that has a functioning 17" MBP with a 6Gb/s SSD?
    If you have, please let me know the specs or your machine and drive so I can see if there is a solution to unleash the full potential of my MBP.
    I believe there is no sadder sight than the sullen tread of a caged (osx) Lion. Help me free the desert's fallen king!! ;-)

    Thanks wjosten for your reply. I filled out a feedback form.
    To comment on AussieDJ's post: I tried the OWC shielding kit, doesn't work. The problems described with 6Gb/s ssd's were all with pre March MBP's. Mine is a June 2011 MBP so I figured the problem would've been solved in the mean time. I guessed wrong there. Since I waited for the release of OSX Lion (and the trim support functionality) I thought this would solve the spinning beach ball issue. I guessed wrong there as well. Can't return the ssd anymore (>30 days) so I glued the ssd on our offices "wall of shame". Being an architecture office we have everybody in the office put up poorly designed objects here (sort of a cool and uncool board but then labelled ***? and No way!). I should've glued y 17" MBP on this wall actually (since it's hardware does not work with the 6Gb/s ssd), but the bugger is too heavy and won't stick... ;-)
    The worst part of the story is that my dad got his 6Gb/s ssd to wortk in his windows notebook...and he does not skip an opportunity to rub it in (your MBP can't do no 6G)!
    Let's hope there will be an EFI update!

  • Macbook Pro Retina doesn't see internal SSD drive

    Hi Guys,
    I have a problem with my Macbook Pro Retina 13(late 2012). Yesterday I've done clean install of Yosemite. Everything worked fine, and I wanted to restore my files using Time Machine. So I restarted it (command +R), plugged in my extertal hard drive, turned on TM restore option and chose my SSD drive as a place to install. Mac asked me to enter password for the SSD (default filevault2 in yosemite), I entered the password, system accepted it and then something went wrong. System told me to restart mac and try again. I restarted it, and did like previous but this time, my mac stopped to see his internal SSD drive. System was asking where to install yosemite form Time Machine and there were no drive to choose. I turned on disc utility, and I see my SSD drive there but I can't erase it, or unlock (picture in appendage). I can only verify disc and it shows that drive is fine. I've tried to install Yosemite on my external drive and boot from there,to unlock SSD in settings(I've chose my Ex. drive as a place to install Yosemite) but it didn't work. I even tried internet recovery (command+option+R) but I didn't help, SSD drive was still useless.
    I think my SSD is still locked, but I don't know how to unlock it now. I don't need to use Time Machine anymore(I have my files in other drive too). It can be clean install but please, can somebody tell me what to do? I have exams this week and really need a computer :<

    Start your mac up by holding the alt key. That is boot from function.
    If its empty then you might have a hard drive issue. Due to your hard drive being picked up but not the partition on the drive. This will most probably be a OS X reinstall.
    Erase the drive and reinstall the OS X or run a recovery mode.
    Good luck

  • My late 2012 mac mini boots slow with new ssd drive

    So here is the situation.  I purchased a 128gb ssd drive, installed it a usb enclosure, formatted it to Mac OS Extended (Journaled), cloned it with carbon copy cloner 3,   used the option key during boot up and selected the ssd drive and it booted my mac mini and it functioned perfectly.  I than tested it for dozens of reboots and it worked fine.  I then took apart my mac mini and removed the original hard drive and installed the new ssd drive.  When I boot to the ssd drive it still takes 47 to 53 seconds just like the old drive.  Aren't ssd drives supposed to be a lot faster?
    My solution or tip is as follows; The reason it takes so long to boot is because the mac mini doesn't know you replaced the old drive and it is looking for it during the boot process.  Finally it can't find the drive so it boots to the ssd drive.  All you have to do to correct this is click on "system preferences", select and click on "startup disk" and select your ssd drive and click on "restart".  After these steps your mac mini will now boot in about 17 seconds.  Issues solved. 

    Yes, my solution fixed the issue.  I went from a 47 to 53 second boot time to a 17 second boot time.  The ssd drive is significantly faster than the original drive that came with my late 2012 mac-mini.   This is my first post and I wasn't sure how to post this as a tip.  I have another tip regarding usb 3.0 hubs. 

  • Can I use an external SSD drive as main drive?

    I would like to use an external SSD drive as my boot/operating drive.  Basically a clone of my current HD but have the option of booting to and using the external SSD drive for system and apps and data.  Is it possible and if so how?

    Certainly can,       however its a bad idea due to extreme cost and having to buy an awkward external enclosure for the microSATA or PCIe SSD
    SSD and an enclosure like this:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-3-0-mini-pci-e-mSATA-SSD-adapter-external-Enclosure- case-with-cable-driver-/221178575483
    OWC sells better SSD enclosures however.
    Also a bad idea due to BUS SPEEDS, and SSD are far too expensive, and you cant get enough storage to cover your internal conventional HD in its size
    Clone your internal HD with an external 1TB conventional HD for $70

  • Zero Out Data on a SSD drive: Are my findings correct?

    "Note: With OS X Lion and an SSD drive, Secure Erase and Erasing Free Space are not available in Disk Utility. These options are not needed for an SSD drive because a standard erase makes it difficult to recover data from an SSD. For more security, consider turning on FileVault 2 encryption when you start using the SSD drive."
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3680
    Seems to hard to believe, as I've seen some of the top participants here clearly say that first your set a new partition, then erase Macintosh HD, then zero out data?

    Retired Engineer, do you have any references?  What I have read says otherwise. 
    Drive Wear & Tear
    What is your estimation of wear and tear on the flash by writing to 0's.  What percentage of the drives total usage has been "wasted"?  I thought even consumer drives where capable of 1000 - 10000 rewrites per cell, whereas enterprise SSDs are capable of over 100,000: http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9112065/Solid_state_disk_lackluster_for_l aptops_PCs?taxonomyId=19&pageNumber=1&taxonomyName=Storage.
    "For one thing, it matters whether the SSD drive uses SLC or MLC memory. SLC generally endures up to 100,000 write cycles or writes per cell, while MLC can endure anywhere from 1,000 to 10,000 writes before it begins to fail, according to Fujitsu's Hagberg. For its part, Western Digital's laptop hard-disk drive boasts up to 600,000 write cycles."
    That's an old artcile too.  Slightly newer, in late 2008 Micron/Sun achieved SLC NAND chips capable of over 1,000,000 write cycles: http://investors.micron.com/releasedetail.cfm?ReleaseID=440650 .  I imagine things have gotten slightly better in the last 4 years.
    Data Wiping
    This paper (http://static.usenix.org/events/fast11/tech/full_papers/Wei.pdf) states, "In most cases, overwriting the entire disk twice was sufficient to sanitize the disk, regardless of the previous state of the drive."
    Going on however, "Overall, the results for overwriting are poor: while overwriting appears to be effective in some cases across a wide range of drives, it is clearly not universally reliable. It seems unlikely that an individual or organization expending the effort to sanitize a device would be satisfied with this level of performance."
    The best method I have found for wiping an SSD on a Mac is the (SAFE) Scramble and Finally Erase process as described in this UC San Diego research paper: http://cseweb.ucsd.edu/users/swanson/papers/TR-cs2011-0963-Safe.pdf.
    According to their paper, the effectiveness of the procedure is equiavlent to degaussing a magentic drive. Another tidbit, the SAFE technique is replicated by Sandforce controller when someone reformats the drive (as mentioned by Linc Davis above, however, I believe this is specific only to Sandforce controllers).
    References:
    http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2011/03/erasing_data_fr.html
    http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9211519/Can_data_stored_on_an_SSD_be_secu red_
    http://arstechnica.com/security/2011/03/ask-ars-how-can-i-safely-erase-the-data- from-my-ssd-drive/
    http://static.usenix.org/events/fast11/tech/full_papers/Wei.pdf
    http://cseweb.ucsd.edu/users/swanson/papers/TR-cs2011-0963-Safe.pdf

  • My hard drive is fried.  I need to reinstall moutain lion to a new SSD drive.  How do I install without media?

    My hard drive fried.  I can't reinstall from the OSX utilities because it only shows the recovery partition.  I was thinking about adding an SSD drive.  But I dont know how to install OSX mountain lion without any media.  What are my choices?  What should I do?

    First, the recovery option is built in to OS X - not the disk. If you install the new drive without formatting it first or without having an OS on it, it will not work (at least as far as I know). Most drives need to be formatted and it needs to be Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and use the GUID Partition Scheme.
    You said that your hard drive is fried but that you can access the recovery? The Command + Option + R is the internet recovery which means it accesses Apple's servers and a limited number of things including disk utility. I've not dealt with this type of problems, so I'm not sure, but If you can access that and you have your new drive in an external enclosure and attached, then you may be able to use Disk Utility on the recovery to format your new drive and then choose to install the OS directly on it.
    The second possibility - and, according to the following article, this should work directly (I've not tried it, so I can't guarantee it will):
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718
    The easiest way would be to attach the new drive in an enclosure and use your internal's disk utility to format and then clone the entire thing to it, but that does not appear to be an option. Unless...... do you have a bootable clone backup or a Time Machine backup?

  • How do I install a SSD drive - the Bios does not allow changing to AHCI mode

    I have a Windows 7, HP ENVY approx 1.5 years old.  I want to install an SSD drive, however the BIOS seems to be locked, or does not include options to change the SATA connection to AHCI or RAID.
    How does one unlock the BIOS, or change the sata settings to allow an SSD drive to be installed?

    Hi:
    AHCI is enabled by default on today's HP consumer notebooks.
    Nothing can be done to actually see a setting, or change the setting to anything other than AHCI etc.
    Paul

  • Hard drive died, but do i have a battery issue also?

    Hello,
    Well, my powerbook has been acting funny for the last few months and I think it finally died today. I've been doing weekly bootable backups on a smartdisk firelite 100GB external hard drive. Yesterday my computer was really slow, so today I updated the backup. Afterwards, I tried running disk repair in the disk utility on my internal hard drive, but it froze while doing that and I was forced to hit the kill switch. When I started it again I got the mini-folder with a blinking question mark. Luckily, I think the bootable backup works (although I've had issues with that drive mounting in the past) and for now it looks like I have all my files and applications. I tried running disk repair on the internal hard drive by got the error message: "invalid B-tree node size, volume check failed, underlying task reported failure on exit (-9972)".
    My question though is about how HOT my powerbook had been running lately. I've been using a notebook cooler with a fan, but it's still very hot to the touch after a while above the keyboard and sometimes I've noticed it's hot on the lower right side (under my left wrist). The adapter on the AC plug/cord setup gets hot also. I'm wondering if the heat was because the hard drive was dying, OR if the hard drive died because of the heat? (Note: I checked my battery serial number a long time ago and it wasn't part of the mac recall.)
    I want to get a new hard drive to install (at BestBuy or some other place I guess). I'll look around on the list for recommendations, but I'm open to suggestions. I don't know if it's worth wiping the hard drive I have now and restoring it from the backup, or just assume it's dead. I don't want to get a new hard drive and find out I have a battery overheating issue instead.
    Thanks for your help!
    Lisa

    Lisa:
    Before you purchase and install a new HDD, just hold a minute.
    Great that you have a bootable backup of your HDD. Good thinking. Are you able to boot the computer from the external firewire HDD? (From a cold start, turn on external HDD, hit computer power button and immediately after chime hold down Option key. Select external HDD in screen and click right pointing arrow.)
    When you ran Disk Utility, did you notice the S.M.A.R.T Status? If it says Verified, there is still hope. If it says failing, we'll need to find you a new HDD.
    +"invalid B-tree node size, volume check failed, underlying task reported failure on exit (-9972)".+
    This indicates serious directory issues for which you will need a utility like Disk Warrior, Tech Tool Pro, or DriveGenius. Take a look at Disk Utility reports "Underlying task reported failure" when repairing a volume for details about the issue.
    One of the above utilities has a good chance of repairing the directories. However, there is an even chance that the drive may be too damaged to be repaired. However, you won't know that until after you have run one of those utilities.
    Your computer will support a 2.5" (P)ATA/IDE HDD up to 160 GB. Here are some HDDs that will work for you at OWC. If you are handy with a screw driver and have the time and patience you can probably install it yourself using these step by step directions from ifixit. If you need to install a new HDD, and think you would like to try it yourself, post back for additional tips.
    Cheers.
    cornelius

  • I have a MAC Pro from 2011 currently running MAC OS 10.9.5.  This weekend I cloned the MAC HD drive to a new SSD drive for improved performance.  The clone was completed successfully with no errors.  After the clone completed I successfull restarted my sy

    I have a MAC Pro from 2011 currently running MAC OS 10.9.5.  This weekend I cloned the MAC HD drive to a new SSD drive for improved performance.  The clone was completed successfully with no errors.  After the clone completed I successfully restarted my system using the SSD as the boot device.  I then successfully tested all of my products, including Photoshop CS6 and all of its plug-ins.  I successfully tested the key features that I frequently use.  Today while attempting to launch Photoshop CS6 a message is being displayed indicating that a scratch disk cannot be found.  All drives are available on the system via the Finder and Disk Utility.  I can access all drives including the old MAC HD which is no longer the boot device.  I've even attempted to launch Photoshop from the old device yet the same error persist.  Is there a way to review/edit/change Photoshop preferences if Photoshop doesn't launch?  I've even restarted my system several times to see if that would resolve the issues.  Does anyone have any recommendations for this issue?  Have you previously address this issue? 
    Thank you Gregg Williams

    Boilerplate text:
    Reset Preferences
    http://forums.adobe.com/thread/375776
    1) Close the program and press Ctrl+Alt+Shift/Cmd+Option+Shift during startup (not reversible)
    or
    2) Move the Folder. See:
    http://www.bugge.com/Family-and-friends/Illy/illy.html
    --OB

  • Time Machine backup created on Mac with a large hard disk. What happens when restore to MacBook Air with small SSD drive?

    What if a Time Machine backup was created on a Mac with a large hard disk, e.g. 500GB iMac - and I buy a new MacBook Air with a small SSD hard disk e.g 128GB. What happens when I need to use the larger Time Machine file to set up the new MacBook Air? What happens to all those files that can't fit on the smaller SSD drive?

    It is not the HD size, but rather the size of the data it contains. If you right-click your 500GB drive and select "Get Info" you can see how much is actually being used.
    Naturally if you are using more space than the new drive has, then you have to make some choices about what you want to keep and what you want to keep archived.
    I don't know what options are available but you may simply have to do a manual restore of files you want, in groups.

  • Upgraded my 2009 iMac with ssd drive

    Hello
    I wanted to share my experience with upgrading my late 2009 iMac replacing the DVD drive with a 240GB SSD drive and upgrading the hard drive to a 3TB hard drive. Back a year ago I upgraded the factory 1TB with a seagate 2TB which was the main internal drive holding the osx. With needing more room I discovered the seagate 3TB also had the necessary heat sensor connector, so I knew that 3TB drive would work. Adding the 240GB SSD was a last minute decision. Plus, I seldom use the factory standard DVD drive and discovered that my LG brand USB dvd drive actually works when attached to the iMac. Operates just like the factory DVD drive.
    So having done an upgrade before on this machine, I was not too concerned, but have to add that all did not go well this time.
    Alter removing the screen and all the screws, then while carefully unplugging all the wires attached to the monitor, that one plug labeled LCD TEMP, that tiny little plug, broke at the circuit board. I was not using too much pressure and suspect the stress on these delicate connections had reached the limit. Both from the previous upgrade, and now another. The plug was simply stressed and ready to give way.
    Maybe this plug was defective, I don't know, but the snap-in plug pulled the top of the black plastic circuit board connector off, exposing the two copper connector prongs. Not only that, but the two copper prongs that were now exposed were curled upward. Making re-attachment of the plug near impossible. So I figured maybe i could re-attach the tiny LCD TEMP plug back onto the exposed prongs and then electrical tape over to hold in-place. But first I had to somehow get the curl out of the two copper connector prongs for the plug to connect.
    Well, while using a small screw driver to try to flatten out the curled copper prongs, one copper prong exceeded its stress level and broke off. Could not take the stress of being bent and messed with. Everything inside these machines are extremely delicate, as everyone knows only too well that has ever opened up their imac.
    And now, a broken LCD TEMP circuit board connector. What to do, what to do?
    Kill two birds with one stone.....
    But first I wondered if this LCD TEMP sensor would keep the system from operating, so I put the machine back together, half way together, and powered it up.
    The machine came to life, however, the CPU fan was running crazy fast 3800 and noisy as ****.
    Googling this, I came across another person that had the same LCD TEMP cable break, and saying their CPU fan went crazy in the same way.
    So I realized somehow the system needed this LCD TEMP connector, connected.
    What to do, what to do?
    I ran over to radio shack and bought the lowest wattage soldering iron they sold.
    Now, this killing two birds with one stone part...
    I had to somehow solder two new wires onto the spot where this LCD TEMP board connector attached to the circut board.
    No easy task since there was only a hair-lines space between the two circuit board connectors. I had to somehow achieve the impossible.
    And while at it, killing off the second bird, I could replace this LCD TEMP wire itself with new much longer wire set, making this disassemble - reassemble thing much easier.
    Well I pulled it off.
    I was able to solder two new wires to the spots on the circuit board where this LCD TEMP connector sits.
    Without bleeding solder onto the partner connector just a hairs-line spaced between.
    Then I patched in this new and longer pair of wires from the circuit board LCD TEMP to the monitor LCD TEMP sensor.
    And finally, replaced the DVD drive with the new 240GB SSD drive, slapped the machine back together half way just enough to power it up, cloned the osx hard drive to the SSD drive, "option-restart" the machine and booted from the new SSD drive, everything working as it should.
    I even dismounted the orginal internal hard drive holding the osx, and ran the system to ensure everything worked, which it did.
    Next, tore the iMac back down, replaced the 2TB hard drive with a new 3TB hard drive, and for a final time slapped the system back together.
    Everything is operating perfect,
    Naturally, had to format the new 3TB hard drive, and will move all my iTunes media back to that new drive I had temporally stored on an external USB drive.
    Fans are all running at normal speeds.
    System is once again silent when running.
    And this is the last and final time I will ever upgrade this particular machine sober.
    Just some advice, this is some of the unforeseen mishaps that can occur when upgrading any iMac.
    And this could have ended in disaster.
    Luckily however, I had just enough luck and experience to get thru the hurdles, now I have a better, bigger, faster iMac.
    Like they say, this self upgrading is not for the faint of heart.
    For awhile I seen myself listing this on eBay as a dead 27" late 2009 iMac for sale for parts.
    Not the case, well at least not the case this time....

    Congratulations on not panicing and stating it like it is. Clearly upgrading the internals of an iMac is not for the faint of heart, I plan on keeping your post if for no other reason to show others why a do-it-yourself on an iMac is a pretty foolish thing to undertake.

  • Should I put the new SSD drive in main HDD bay or the Superdrive/Optical bay for a Mid-2010 Macbook Pro?

    Hello All,
    I'm considering getting a new SSD drive to add on to my Mid-2010 Macbook Pro (13 inches, unibody), and wondering which one of the following two options I should really adapt: 
    (1) Replace the original OEM hard drive in the main bay with the new SSD drive, and then remove the Superdrive (or the optical CD drive) and to be fitted into an external enclosure for using it externally in the future, and then relocate the original OEM hard drive into the Superdrive position, so both the new SSD (preferably for running the OS and system files) and the old OEM hard drive (for storing media and documents for example) could be used; and
    (2) Keep the original OEM hard drive in place in the main drive, and buy a superdrive/optical drive caddy to goes with the new SSD drive, and together place the new SSD drive fitted inside the caddy into the position of the Superdrive/Optical CD drive, and configure the boot preference to be booting from the Superdrive/Optical Drive (which is now the SSD drive with OS and system files);
    I've done some researches and some suggested that option (2) is better approach for at least two reason: (a) the MBP main drive come with some sort of shock proof sensor, so placing the original optical hard drive in the main is better than placing it in the super/optical drive where there is NO shock sensing feature provided, and placing SSD in the super/optical drive, one doesn't really have to worry so much about shocks; and (b) as during the process of shutting down the MBP, for optical hard drive, some power will sometimes needed to finally spin down the drive, but if such optical hard drive is place in the superdrive, the power maybe cut off right away when MBP shut down, which may cause issue to the optical hard drive in a long run as it never properly spin it down.
    Then the main concern is that, if I adapt option (2) above, placing SSD in the super/optical drive bay and install and running the OS from there, will it decrease the performance (i.e. speed, latency, and etc.) as if i was to put the new SSD in the main drive?
    Also, any suggestions with respect to Samsung 840 EVO vs. Samsung 850 EVO (250GB)? any well-rated HD caddy aside from OWC for moving the main HDD to optical CD bay? and perhaps an external enclosure for the Superdrive?  Thanks in advance for any comment and/or suggestion. 
    - Jack

    Could you provide some rationale(s) behind it?  As far as I know, the mid 2010 Macbook Pro, the HDD is running via the SATA interface at running at 3.0 Gb/s, which is SATA II, and the Super-drive and/or the Optical drive, which is also running via SATA II interface, so I would assume the performance (i.e. primarily in speed) would be similar if not the same by placing the SSD drive in either one of the two places. 
    Also, wouldn't it be better by placing the SSD in the optical so the OEM HDD could be kept in the original main bay since it has the shock-sensing feature there?

Maybe you are looking for

  • Apple Loops disappeared

    Hi gang, I created two Apple Loops from a couple audio regions in my session so I could adjust the tempo. Only one of the regions succesfully converted and imported to an apple loop, but now my entire Apple Loop library is gone and I have have those

  • Region Static ID not copied using Copy Page in Apex 3.0.1

    When you copy a page that has static region IDs, these are not copied to the new page. I'm not sure if this is a bug or whether it is deliberate? For my purposes, it would suit me best if the static IDs were copied over.

  • Found problems pairing bluetooh devices with my iphone 6 plus

    Cannot pair my car radio and my headphones via bluetooth with my nrew iphone 6 plus. They paired worked perfectly with iphone 5.

  • Where to mention a new feed address to iTunes

    Hi all, I did submit an RSS feed address to iTunes when I created it in October 2011, at this time the adress was : http://feeds.feedburner.com/JeCommenceABloguer When I published my first podcasts it worked very well but once I published some other

  • Report Performmance

    Hi, I'm observing an Issue on OBIEE server,a particular query for a particular report is taking around 14secs if we execute it directly on the database the report itself is taking around 1:00 -2:00 mins to display. Has any one observed the same issue