Help! Handling Fonts for Best Print Quality

In a PS file, what is the best way to handle fonts, leave them as font or rasterize, before flatening and making PDF?

Both InDesign and Illustrator are much better choices for business cards than Photoshop.
- Dov

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C4780 scan this alignment page for best print quality problem

My C4780 photosmart printer is stuck in the "scan this alignment page for best print quality" loop.
i.e. It keep display this message and refuse to print.
My OS is windows Vista Home.
I had followed the steps in the user manual but still cannot fix this problem.

Hi tsanchung,
From the description of your problem, it appears that the alignment process was not completed successfully.
I would recommend that you load the alignment page printed as shown in the section 'Step eight: Align the cartridges' in the link below to complete the alignment:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01667624&cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3794615
I hope that this suggestion will help you fix the problem.
Regards,
Praveen
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Pre-Size Your PPI for Best Print - Once Good Advice Still Good?

In another thread someone mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.
For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
So it's time to question the old rule of thumb.
Making a few assumptions about the many variables (what printer, what OS, what version of drivers, what application being used to print) , there seem to be several questions here:
1. Can the image resolution be too high, causing the printer driver to make bad decisions about what ink dots to lay down where on the paper?
2. Does it help or matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to help answer these questions.
I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches: http://Noel.ProDigitalSoftware.com/ForumPosts/Ghirardelli.jpg
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:
Naked eye:
The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.
I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.
Jeweler's Loupe:
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.
At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.
The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".
Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.
Macro Photo:
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.
The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print. Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.
Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.
Left to right, top to bottom: 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old).
Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.
When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher) I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.
It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.
Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.
I encourage you to experiment and report your results with your particular combination of gear.
Your comments are welcome!
-Noel

Noel Carboni wrote:
Jeff Schewe wrote:
I would never suggest people actually downsample though...why waste the pixels?
Exactly. There was a statement in another recent thread that downsampling to be an even fraction of the print dpi was important to do.
It might have been a misapplied extension of the advice to upsample. It's not been all that long that we've had big enough high resolution data that even makes downsampling a possibility.
-Noel
I believe I was the one to make that statement, which was based on recommendations by an Epson Print expert at a seminar demoing printers. He showed to prints from the same file, one set at an even multiple of 720 and the other some random number. It was subtle but visible the difference. That was probably 5 years ago.
In the meantime, I have made extensive tests of prints on my Epson 3800 trying many combinations of single pass, hi speed, Super fine print (2880x1440) and down to the basic level.
Everything evened out at 720 dpi. At 360, which is where I output from ACR, I can make an 8x12 print with no resampling whatsoever. Upping that to 720 and pushing the printer hard (2880x1440, single pass on Canson Platine), I see a discernable difference in the smooth tonalities.
As I understood you from past conversations, you employ the maximum output size from ACR which in my case, would double the file size by upsampling, and if necessary, downsample from that. I am not comfortable doing that as a default operation, but perhaps Jeff S might step in here and clarify. After all, ACR does offer that option! But my file size now goes from ~70MP to 143 MP, cutting my storage capability by 1/2. It's not a trivial matter when two of us here can run 600 to 800 images in 1/2 day!

C4280 defaults to Best print quality in Excel

Hi,
My C4280 for some reason always defaults to best print quality in Excel - other programs are OK. I have created several short cuts with draft print quality.
I can change the setting to draft , print it in draft, close the document then open it again & it will want to print in Best quality.

Thanks Michael for your generally good advice. I actually answered my own question about setting up the highest quality print by performing the steps I outlined in the second paragraph of my initial post. After printing a couple of samples and studying the results with a loupe, I found saving the TIFFs with Zip compression as opposed to the maximum quality JPEG. files was the way to go although almost no one would know the difference without intense scrutiny. Honestly I'd prefer Adobe offer LZW instead of Zip as the option for how Acrobat deals with TIFF files but perhaps there's a technical reason which would preclude that option.

For best sound quality should volume be controlled from iPad or BlueTooth speaker?

For best sound quality when listening to music, should the volume be controlled from iPad or from a connected Bluetooth speaker?

Pajaro wrote:
For good sound quality, flat response is the most important thing. Take a look at qloud, http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php?ID=34412, and find yourself a very good microphone.
Then you will probably want to set a global equalizer for your machine. You can try with alsa, http://krustev.net/w/articles/Global_eq … _for_ALSA/.
If ALSA isn't finegrained enough, jack has a lot more flexibility, except for the fact that it doesn't allow you to set default output device, so you will need a helper application to redirect all output connections to your equalizer.
Well, i would say this is quite subjective. Untouched signal is superior to any equalized sound in my opinion, but i know this debate is never satisfying

Using system fonts for commercial printing?

Hi,
Does anyone know the licensing rights/usage for using system fonts for commercial printing? If I understand correctly, system fonts that comes from operating system CAN be use because Apple purchase the rights on them and end users that purchase OS can use these fonts freely as long as not we are not redistributing them for profit, etc.
Can anyone point me in the right direction with official documentation on the subject?
Thanks!

Never mind, I found the answer. It's in Apple's OS EULA.
"E. Fonts. Subject to the terms and conditions of this License, you may use the fonts included
with the Apple Software to display and print content while running the Apple Software; however,
you may only embed fonts in content if that is permitted by the embedding restrictions
accompanying the font in question. These embedding restrictions can be found in the Font
Book/Preview/Show Font Info panel."

HD output process for best / highest quality?

We shot our film in DVCPRO HD 720p 24.
We are done editing and ready to output to DVD for festival submission. What is the best way to output the film for the best / highest quality?
Should we run this through compressor?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Paul

David, Do you need to adjust the compressor preset to maintain 24p thru dvd authoring (for better quality at lower bitrate - not to mention that full 24p experience on a properly configured dvd player and plasma screen)?
I know that DVDSP does not register the m2v file as 24p (even though it is). I use bitvice to do my high quality compression so I'm not sure about compressor.

Font for Check printing

Hi,
I need to create a template for check printing with the routing number and account number on the
check. How should I download the font to my word document. So that I can work on the fonts.
And Do you have any document which explains how to use these fonts to create the routing number?
Thanks in advance!!!
Edited by: user647243 on Sep 23, 2008 6:25 AM

Thanks for the reply.
I created a file in the server and given the path in configuration>general.
Now program is working fine but the required font is not displayed.
I created a font mapping file and a font mapping set and then created font mapping and mapped to the file.
I also changed the configuration of FO processing to the font mapping set created earlier.
I think I followed all the steps.when I checked I can see the font file that has been downloaded into the temp directory that
I created. But My template doesn't use it for some reason. I have attached the font mapping to the template configuration.
Am I missing anything here??
Thanks a lot for looking into this!!!
Regards,
Madhuri
Edited by: user647243 on Oct 1, 2008 1:06 PM

Need help setting up for wireless printing- remote access- by email

When trying to set up my printer I get a box that says "Printers Code", is the "printer code" another word for hardware address or is it the access point hw address or what is it? I wish the HP people would stick to the same nomenclature in their set up!

Hi,
Printer code is a code for your printer which allows you to register to ePrint center. From there you can get printer email address and you can email to this email address for printer to print. Not all printers have printer code. You can read more information from the following link:
https://h30495.www3.hp.com/help/about
Regards.
BH
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CS5 Best print quality using "Image" options ?

Hi.
I have recently upgraded CS5 from 32 bit to 64 using Windows 7. I am trying to maximise print qualty. But notice that "Image" menu only offers 8,16 and 32 bit. The menu is preselected to 8 bit (? Improted picture qualtiy) and if I reselect to 32 bit, I lose the option to print. Can you help me please? Nai

This has nothing to do with print quality. You seriously need to read the help and do a generic web search on print stuff...
Mylenium

Best settings for professional printing quality .pdf from Microsoft Publisher file?

Hello,
I have created a couble of design documents in Microsoft Publisher, and would like them professionally printed. The printer who will print them has asked me to send him the artwork as a .pdf, with crop marks, color density bars and registration marks.
I have Acrobat X Pro, and have tried to use the print AdobePDF function from within Microsoft Publisher but I am struggling to get the best quality result with all the printer marks. Can anyone suggest what are the best setting for a professional .pdf?
I have chosen 'Press Quality' print settings and that helps to make the images look good. But I cant make it work with CMYK? The Adobe printing function doesnt seem to like the 'Composite CMYK' selection needed to make the printing marks available?
Help!
Thanks,
Liz

Try the "Smallest Size" Preset. As a side note, you can reduce the ppi from 300 to 150 in Image > image size (resample on) to reduce file size and keep quality.
Gene

Looking for best DVD quality as possible - help please !!!

Hello All
I have some footage ( 55min ) recorded on a Sony Z1 - HDV 1080 60i - 16:9 and edit on FCP. I exported the file on the same setting. Then sent to compressor to creat a DVD on DVD SP. I dont wanna let DVD SP encode the files, even because it will not accept files on HDV to autoring a SD DVD.
Whats the best settings I can get to produce the best quality dvd as possible.
What I did is use the DVD Best quality 90 min and raised the bit rate to its maximum - 7.7 or so. Is there a better way to do it or should I choose a different setting.
Hope I could make myself clear.
P.S. - Sorry for English.

Hi
I think that the following tutorial will help you: [Exporting HDV Video from the Timeline to Standard Definition DVD|http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/hdv_timeline_to_sddvd.html].
You need FCP 6 (FinalCut Studio2) ti use ProRes codec.
PS: Sorry for my english ... I'm from Argentina !
Hope that helps !
Alberto
Message was edited by: Silal

Help understanding workflow for best quality.

Greetings.
I've read countless hours on this forum in the effort to understand this extremely complicated subject of getting my video out of my camera and onto a DVD in the best quality possible, and I'm still a little confused.
I'm not recording anything that is particularly high-action, but rather weddings, funerals, (yeah, I know), children's school programs, and my next big project is a seminar with keynote speaker.
I have three Sony HDR SR-11 cameras, which clearly record video as ACHDV and the video signal is 1080/60i (NTSC). I could also record in SD with an MPEG2 file.
I understand the a DVD is only SD at best, and am recording in HD since I have room for the files, and someday we might have better options for the video than we have now.
I started using iMovie, and have iMovie 11, and just love how easy and slick it is to make impressive looking stuff.
Once I import into iDVD to make the cool menus, I use "professional" encoding. I am about to produce a longer video than will fit on a single layer disk, and will be burning to a dual-layer DVD.
I own a copy of FCE, but was overwhelmed when I first started to use it, and on a time crunch for that project, reverted back to iMovie.
How I record events is to set up three cameras from different perspectives and then create a movie from the best angles, switching back and forth. This is a little cumbersome in iMovie, but I've had no trouble except for the date stamp disappearing and having to fix that on my most recent project. (once the date stamp is gone...it's hard to figure out where the clips are that you need for the next minute or two at a time).
I'm about to embark on an effort to market my work professionally, and am clearly working with amateur equipment, and without the time or resources to start all over with a $50K investment, would like to squeak by on what I have, and need to get the best quality possible out of it. Without any question, my market requires the movies to be on DVDs.
I'm most confused by interlacing/deinterlacing issue. I understand what the two are, but not what to do about it, if anything. I notice there is a button to check "deinterlace" in iMovie, and wonder why it's there and if it works and if I should be using it.
What would my specific advantages be, if any, to learning FCE? If a huge difference could be made, I would take the time to learn FCE, and I could lay out another couple hundred bucks for other software, if you had some to recommend that would greatly surpass what I'm doing, in place of iDVD or another intermediary I should be using.
I've been exporting with QT, using the following settings:
Video:
Compression: H.264
Quality: High
Key frame:24
Frame reordering: yes
Encoding: multi-pass
Dimensions: 960x540
Sound:
Format: Integer (Little Endian)
Sample: 44.1 kHz
Sample: 16-bit
Channels: Stereo
Then create menus in iDVD and burn to DVD.
Could you please give me feedback on my process, and try to answer my questions and clear up my confusion? I'd appreciate it so much!
Karen

Does FCE do this with multiple cameras? I'd want to make sure that FCS does it, before I buy it and am stuck with it, especially if FCE will do it and I already have it.
Yes and No
No - Multicamera is a function in FC Pro
Yes - but You do it in a very "Paper-clip" way. Put each Camera on one track ontop of each other
Camera 1 - v-tr 1
Camera 2 - v-tr 2
Camera 3 - v-tr 3
Then schrink the view of each track to 25% with Vireframe and put them into one corner
each (Not the same one)
Move them so that the sync. frame eg a photo flash is on the same time for all three video-tracks.
Now when playing one see the three views in paralell.
THIS demands that all Cameras has a common Sync-point (I use a photo-flash)
AND that no Camera was turned off during uptake.
IT is also important to know if any of the Cameras are sencitive to movements.
My small one is.
So I put mine on tripods !
This recording behaviour is the same if using FinalCut Pro ! Cont. recording and one sync. frame.
Then when playing in FinalCut Express - one use the transparicy tool to make the
Camera visibly that has the best picture.
When done the full movie (by adjusting transparicy - one re-size the Video tracks to 100% and let them fill view.
Now when playback - You see the edited result.
In FC Pro - You set Your Cameras as Multi Camera and set the sync frame. Now it will
in Viewer play (in 25% size) and You just point at the best view trough the movie
and it will assemble in TimeLine. You need not to be especially on target - easily adjusted
with roll-tool (I think) in after hand.
1 hour editing two Cameras takes for me (ME)
• FinalCut Express - about 10 hours
• FinalCut Pro - 2 hours to Capture - 1h15min to edit.
There is a program - CaptureMagic SD (HD) - that let's You copy directly to Your Mac
hard disk - NEED is one FW-port per Camera
(Port is something else than the connectors, My PowerBook G4 has one FW400 and one FW800 connector
BUT ONLY one FW-port - So I need to use a CMA-CIA-card with one FW-connector to get a second FW-port )
This set-up works and I get the material Captured in real-time. Resulting in editing time 1h 15min per hour movie.
Yours Bengt W

Help... Best image quality from FCP to DVDSP... (FCP project at 1440 x 960

Hi all,
Yes, I just finished an edit in FCP with frame dimensions of 1440 x 960 (Not HD). (Don't ask . I am on the hunt for input for the best way to get the highest quality when I take the 1440 x 960 video down to Standard definition DVDSP. For example, should I just drag-n-drop a reference movie into DVDSP and let DVDSP do the resizing?.... or maybe I should use Compressor to resize first? etc.. etc.. etc... (If I should use Compressor to do the resizing... a little help on what settings to use would be great)
This is a graphically heavy video with a lot of client logos, animations, etc.
Thanks a bunch,
Matt

What format are the assets? As PDTV said, don't even think about recompressing an MPEG2 file if you wish to retain quality.
There are tools such as DVD2One which you could look at, but if this is 8GB of MPEG2 then use a DL disc.

Book - best settings for best photo quality

What are the best settings for my photos in order to get the best quality book?
Thanks
Zasa

zasa:
Use the largest file, pixel wise, that you can. The books are printed at 300 dpi so the largest size the better to insure you'll get as close to that dpi for the largest page picture possible.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Help! Handling Fonts for Best Print Quality

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