Help with monitoring

I'm new to Audtion and am in the trial phase. I'm running OS Lion.
This question pertains to recording a two track Audio File, not a MultiTrack Session.
When I create a New Multitrack Session: FILE > NEW > MULTITRACK, I have the ability to monitor the recording when I activate the "I" - Montior Input. In the individual track window.
But when I try to record a simple two channel Audio File: FILE > NEW > AUDIO FILE, I cannot locate a Monitor Input nor can I montor the recording being layed down.
Am I missing something here?
My Audio Channel Mapping is utilizing the Device: Built-In Output and my Audio Hardware is set to Default Output: Built-In Output, so, how do I go about this?
Thanks in advance.
-Scott

Okay, I think I may see your problem. I've just skimmed through the manual for your ADC 1 and, unusually, it really is just an analogue to digital converter rather than a fully featured audio interface. Unless I'm missing something, it doesn't have any analogue outputs for monitoring purposes.
This is significant because, like many DAWs, Audition would normally just let you use a direct loop on the interface to provide your monitoring.
In Multitrack View, things are set up differently to allow you to playback prerecorded tracks while you're adding more material--for example, laying down a piano or guitar track then sing along with this to record a vocal track. This is why Multitrack has the monitoring switch you've already found.
For Waveform view, you'd normally just tell your audio interface to route the input to the analogue outs--except your ADC 1 can't do this.
The only workround I can think of is to simply record in Multitrack view. I can't think of any major downsides to working this way--indeed, for historic reasons, I usually do anyway.
One caution I would make...before you simply reject Audition and buy a different piece of DAW software, make sure it does what you want. I have several other DAWs installed on my workstation and none of them will do exactly what you're after either. If they have an equivalent to Waveform view, they work the same as Audtion and expect you to use your interface for monitoring--or they're purely for multitracking and just don't have a Waveform view equivalent. FYI, I work on a Windows machine so perhaps there's a Mac only piece of software that does what you want.
Anyway, good luck with your recording--I hope the quality on your ADC 1 makes the lack of analogue outs worthwhile.

Similar Messages

Help with monitor calibration - simulating NTSC on computer monitor

I know the proper way to monitor video is using an external NTSC production monitor. Since I don't have one I'm wondering how I can get the closest to simulating an NTSC monitor on my Apple Cinema Display. I have made a monitor calibration using gamma 1.4 that seems pretty good except the shadow areas are too dark. If I can resist the temptation to lighten the dark areas, based on what I see on my computer monitor, my results look pretty good on a TV played from a DVD. If there was some way I could set up my Cinema Display to be closer to an NTSC monitor it would help me a lot. Any ideas?
As a related question: If my video project is not destined for TV but played on a laptop and shown on a screen using a projector maybe I can use my computer monitor as more of a guide to what it will look like on screen.
Another related question: How do the modern flat screen TVs relate to the older CRT variety in terms of calibration. Do the new flat screens still use the same NTSC calibration? The flat screens seem more like computer monitors to me.

If there was some way I could set up my Cinema Display to be closer to an NTSC monitor it would help me a lot. Any ideas?
The Matrox MXO: http://www.matrox.com/video/en/products/mxo/
If my video project is not destined for TV but played on a laptop and shown on a screen using a projector maybe I can use my computer monitor as more of a guide to what it will look like on screen.
If the program won't be viewed on TV, using the computer monitor should be fine ... but keep in mind that Windows system's use a different gamma.
How do the modern flat screen TVs relate to the older CRT variety in terms of calibration. Do the new flat screens still use the same NTSC calibration? The flat screens seem more like computer monitors to me.
They aren't. They are designed to reproduce the NTSC/ATSC color space and gamma. However, like most later model consumer CRTs, flat panel TVs have built-in circuitry designed to artificially enhance/correct the image. That's the primary reason to use a professional monitor, be it a flat panel or an older CRT.
-DH

Please help with strange monitor/Lightroom 4 interaction problem

I bought a Dell Ultrasharp U3011 yesterday, and I'm now facing a very strange problem. It's sort of related to the common discussed issue of Lightroom's color management, but there is a twist here. I'll explain.
The monitor I had been using (and still have) was a Samsung SyncMaster 244T. I had no problems at all with it.
With the U3011, I've run into this problem:
-When I view files in Lightroom 4, the colors are muted and contrast low. The same files seen in Xnview, ACDSee Pro (with the color management turned off), Digital Photo Professional (colorspace set to sRGB), are much more vivid. In Photoshop, if I use the default color setting, it looks muted like Lightroom (I'm guessing because Adobe products have default color profile set to ProPhoto RGB), but if I set the color profile to the monitor's profile, it becomes vivid and matches the other software I mentioned. If I use any other profile such as sRGB IEC81966-2.1, ProPhoto RGB, Adobe RGB, etc, it doesn't match the other software I mentioned. This is strange because the other ones match each other because they are set to sRGB, but in Photoshop, even if I set the color profile to sRGB, it still doesn't match.
-In Lightroom 4, even if I use Soft Proofing, nothing changes. It's as if Soft Proofing is broken--it doesn't do anything, no matter what color profile I choose.
-Now, here's the twist. I didn't have any of these problems when I use the 244T. This leads me to assume that the problem is how the U3011 is interacting with Lightroom. I did a quick comparison of opening up the same image on both monitors in ACDSee Pro, and they looked identical. (At this point, I had the U3011's preset set to sRGB. This is the only preset that makes the U3011 look identical to the 244T).
Next, I did an experiment, and I was very surprised by what happened. This is what I did:
With both monitors as a dual display setup, I turned on Before/After comparison in Lightroom (made sure both version had the same setting and look identical by copying the After's setting to Before). I then moved Lightroom's window so that one photo is seen on the U3011, and the other shows up on the 244T. And OMIGOD, they looked different! Why is this happening? I've already established that the same image looks identical on both monitors when viewed with ACDSee Pro, but in Lightroom, they looked different on each monitor.
And then things got even more weird. When I dragged the Lightroom window fully to one monitor or the other, Lightroom actually started changing the colors right before my eyes as it responded to which monitor was displaying which photo! Lightroom was somehow interacting with the monitor in real-time. So if the Before looked muted on U3011 and the After looked vivid on the 244T, when I drag the whole window into 244T, the muted Before will stay muted for about a second or so, and then it'll suddenly change and become identical to After. And when I did the reverse (drag the window into U3011), the reverse also happened--the vivid After will stay vivid on U3011 for about a second or so, and then it would suddenly change and become muted. Lightroom was identifying each monitor's color profile setting and changing the images according to which monitor was doing the displaying, and when the images were split between the two monitors, Lightroom was slitting them into two different settings to match whichever monitor is displaying which side.
So what the hell does that all mean, and what can I do to get Lightroom to display the photos so that they look the same as on all the other software I mentioned (so I don't have to play the guessing game of editing the images, export them out to other software to check how they turned out). Also, remember that I didn't have this problem with the 244T--Lightroom displayed the photos the same way as the other software I mentioned. The problem right now is that the U3011 is somehow causing Lightroom to display the photos differently, and no color profile presets in the OSD control can make them match.
I need to solve this problem, or else my last resort would be to return the U3011 and try another brand/model and see if that helps.
Any ideas?

Yes, that's basically sensible advice you got there (but I was more succinct ).
An important point that was mentioned over there is that you must not confuse document/source profile with monitor profile. They are both links in the color management chain, but they serve different purposes. The document profile defines the colors in a standard color space. The monitor profile describes the monitor's own native color space - its response to the RGB numbers it's fed. So one is translated into the other, by the application on the fly, through a normal profile conversion, and that way the colors appear on-screen as intended.
If those two profiles/color spaces are roughly similar, as they would be in the case of an sRGB document displayed on a standard gamut display - then you can get by without color management. It won't look too far off. But a wide gamut monitor changes the rules, because its native color space is not similar to sRGB, it's much closer to Adobe RGB.
Anyway, this is what color management is about. Any profile can be translated into any other. So in this context it doesn't really matter what color space the document is in - as long as you have a good monitor profile it will display correctly (within practical limitations). Lightroom is a sort of special case because its internal working color space is not one of the standard ones, instead it's a modified ProPhoto space with linear gamma. But the basic principle is exactly the same: source profile > monitor profile.
Just to go a little more in-depth while I'm at it: When you calibrate a display you actually do two separate things. You first calibrate it to a more or less standardized response. But that's just a linear one-dimensional correction. It does nothing about how color is actually reproduced, how red is red for instance. The calibration is global and affects everything system-wide because it's read into the video card or monitor hardware.
Then, once calibrated, a monitor profile is made. This is a full, complete and accurate description of the monitor's behavior, in three-dimensional color space. The precision level is much higher. This profile is used, by color managed applications like Lightroom and Photoshop, to display the image.
Other applications that are not color managed will simply ignore this profile, and send the RGB numbers straight through to the display, unmodified. With a standard gamut monitor (and an sRGB document) the difference won't be too dramatic and you may not notice it unless you look closely. But a wide gamut monitor will make the difference jump out immediately.

Need help with a Asus 27" monitor with webcam problem.

Need help with a Asus 27" monitor I bought. Model VK278Q. The issue is that the webcam will not work properly. Various applications can see the webcam, but I just get a black box. From what I have read, the issue seems to be that there are no official drivers for the webcam.
I thought someone in this community might be able to offer some help before I return the monitor. I read somewhere that it may be possible to tweat the OS so that the iSight software will work for the monitor webcam.
Thx

NAVARRO360 wrote: ... there is no simple fix? ...
Eureka! You now understand the situation.
Even the old standard for Mac OS X drivers for non-compatible cams, macam, says that it has no driver for ASUS (20") monitor camera.
The macam status shows:
not working (no documentation)
With no working driver for the 20" ASUS, it is not surprising that there is none for the 27" either. There may be good reason that ASUS won't (or can't) offer either the technical documentation or a Mac driver for their monitor's inbuilt webcam. However, they apparently do not publish that information.
If ASUS Technical Support cannot provide the driver you need for OS X, the ASUS will continue to be a ridonculous (sic) monitor whose webcam will not work with your OS X Mac. The only other simple fix I can think of is to use the ASUS with a different PC that is compatible with this monitor and its inbuilt webcam. What you do is certainly your choice.
Message was edited by: EZ Jim
Mac OSX 10.7.3

Help with display quality (LCD TV)

I've hooked up my Mac mini to my Samsung 32" LCD TV via HDMI cable.
The overall quality is just far from desireable and is taking away all of the fun from using this new mac.
I set the resolution output to 720p, which is what the TV supports. So that's good.
I played slightly with the Contrast and Brightness on the TV settings.
But I must be missing something. Although the image is sharp, it's very difficult to read from 6ft away, pictures look terrible (seeing the same picture on a different computer and monitor is so much more revealing), and the display is bad for everything basically.
Please help with any settings suggestions or perhaps a detailed guideline for my setup.
I started to configure a color profile on the display settings but the results weren't that great and I reverted to default. Too many subtle changes. My colorblindness probably doesn't help.
Thanks.

Thanks for the response.
It's the latest Mac Mini with 2.5ghz i5, AMD Radeon HD 6630M, and 8GB RAM.
I am familiar with the "Just Scan" setting under picture size on the Samsung TV.
I'll look for the digital noise reduction.
Are there complete guides with recommended settings for different setups? Or maybe even general, that would help me here?
Thanks.

Need help with color management

I am looking for someone to help me. Please!
I am looking for help with Photoshop/printer not printing correct colors.
I have: Windows 7, Photoshop CS5, Photoshop Elements, HP Pavillion Laptop, new Okidata C530dn color laser printer
Previously I had a Canon Pixma MP620 and a gentleman from another forum gave me the correct settings for printing on photo paper and colors were perfect. I now have a OKIdata C530dn color laser and have started a business printing business cards and greeting cards, etc., and I do advertisements on a freelance basis.
I will be working a lot with cardstock or cover stock 65-110 lbs paper. I have an old OKIdata 2024e at work, and the colors are much better with that printer than my new personal one. I have tried matching the settings of that printer to mine to no avail. I have finally gotten the color close, but not quite. When I print on my Canon injet the colors match and print perfectly.
I have tried every setting variation that I can think of to get the color correct with my new OKIdata. I have to get the colors correct or my new business will go under because I can't match colors for my customers. I am a self taught Photoshoper and a novice so please bear with me.
Using Okidata PCL. Also have PS
Color settings in Photoshop:
North America General Purpose 2
sRGB 2.1
U.S. Web Coated Swop v2
Dot gain 20 %
Dot gain 20 %
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
engine: Adobe (ACE)
Relative Colormetric
Tried RGB color mode and CMYK color mode, no difference
Printer settings:
Photoshop manages colors
sRGB 2.1 Printer profile
Relative Colormetric
Print setup:
Letter
Multipurpose tray
Weight: printer settings-default (when I used heavy setting for cardstock it printed green instead of the color light blue, so that was a start to the right color)
Job Options:
Hight Quality
Color: No color matching
Printer preferences in Printer properties:
Color management
Device: Display 1 generic PnP monitor AMD M88og with ATI Mobility Radeon HD4200
ICC Profiles: Generic PnP Monitor (default)
Advanced:
Windows Color System Defaults:
everything under this tab is set at System Default
I have gotten the color close, but colors are dull. I have tried an adjustment layer and setting the saturation higher, but that doesn't help. I know my laptop is showing the right colors, (calibrated) because I am still printing to the Canon with cardstock and the colors are perfect using the same settings above.
Tried printing in PSE and it gave me an error that it was not a post script printer. Installed ps driver, still getting errors and it wouldn't print.
I would appreciate any help you could give me before I run out of toner and have to buy the expensive toners, or just slit my wrists j/k LOL
Thanks! JS

You need an ICC profile for your printer. Chromix has an excellent service at http://www2.chromix.com/colorvalet/ which will do this calibration for you. You download some software they provide, then print a test file on the exact same paper you are using for your cards. Then send the output to them and they will calibrate the colors with their equipment and send you the ICC profile file. Once you have it, you'll be able to print accurate colors.
There are other services out there that may cost less, but I do not know how reputable they are. Chromix is a good business I've worked with many times.
If you are trying to run a business and you don't understand color management yet, you may be in for a lot of trouble. Please get the book "Real World Color Management" available at http://www.colorremedies.com/realworldcolor/ and it will save you a ton of money and headaches.

Hello everyone, hoping for some help with my new Apple Cinema Display 20"

Hi everyone, I bought an Apple Cinema Display 20 inch LCD monitor, just about 3 weeks ago. I have two issues I am hoping to get some help with.
1) I am using the screen on a PC with Windows XP, and I was very disappointed at the lack of PC support. I have no on screen display (OSD), so I can't see what percentage I have my brightness set to, and I can't alter the colour or contrast of the display, etc. Luckily it defaulted to very good settings, but I would really like to be able to use the (fan made?) program called "WinACD". If I would be best asking somewhere else, please direct me there. If not, my problem is that I installed it added the "Controls" tab, but it just says, Virtual Control Panel "None Present". I have tried googling for an answer, and I have seen many suggestions, but none of them worked. I installed the WinACD driver without my USB lead plugged in, and someone said that was important. So I have tried uninstalling, rebooting, then reinstalling it again with the USB plugged in, and a device plugged in to my monitor to be sure. It didn't seem to help. I have actually done this process a few times, just to be sure. So I would really like to get that working if possible.
2) I am disappointed at the uniformity of the colour on the display. I have seen other people mention this (again, after a google search), and that someone seemed to think it is just an issue we have to deal with, with this generation of LCD monitors. Before I bought this screen, I had an NEC (20wgx2), and it had a very similar issue. Most of the time, you cannot see any problem at all, but if you display an entire screen with a dark (none prime) colour, like a dark blue green colour, you can see areas where it is slightly darker than others. It was more defined on the NEC screen, and that is why I returned it. I now bought this Apple Cinema Display, because it was the only good alternative to the NEC. (It has an 8bit S-IPS / AS-IPS panel, which was important to me). But the problem exists in this screen too. It isn't as bad thankfully, but it still exists... I have actually tried a third monitor just to be sure, and the problem existed very slightly in that one, so I think I am probably quite sensitive in that I can detect it.
It is most noticable to me, because I do everything on this PC. I work, I watch films, and I play games. 99% of the time, I cannot see this problem. But in some games (especially one)... the problem is quite noticeable. When you pan the view around, my eyes are drawn to the slight areas on my screen which are darker, and it ruins my enjoyment. To confirm it wasn't just the game, like I said, I can use a program to make the entire screen display one solid colour, and if you pick the right type of colour (anything that isn't a bright primary colour), I can see the problem - albeit fairly faintly.
I am pretty positive that it is not my graphics card or any other component of my PC, by the way, because everything is brand new and working perfectly, and the graphics card specifically, I have upgraded and yet the problem remains - even on the new card. Also, the areas that are darker, are different on this screen than on the other screens I have used.
So basically, I would like to register my disappointment at the lack of perfect uniformity on a screen which cost me £400 (over double what most 20 inch LCD screens cost), and I would like to know if anybody could possibly suggest a way to fix it?
It is upsetting, becuase although this problem exists on other screens too, this is, as far as I know, the most expensive 20" LCD monitor available today, and uses the best technology available too.
p.s. If anyone would like to use the program that lets you set your entire PC screen a specific colour, it is called "Dead Pixel Buddy", and it is a free piece of software, made by somebody to check for dead pixels. But I found it useful for other things too, including looking at how uniform the colour of the screen is. That's not to say I was specifically looking for this problem by the way... the problem cought my eye.
Thanks in advance!
Message was edited by: telelove

I've been talking about this on another forum too, and I made some pictures in photoshop to describe the problem. Here is what I posted on the other forum:
Yes, "brightness uniformity" definitely seems to be the best description of my issue.
Basically it just seems like there are very faint lines down the screen, that are slightly darker than the other areas on the screen. They aren't defined lines, and they aren't in a pattern. It's just slight areas that are darker, and the areas seem like narrow bands/lines. Usually you can't see it, but in some cases, it is quite noticeable. It is mainly when I'm playing a game. The slightly darker areas are not visible, and then when the image moves (because I am turning in a car, or turning a plane, or turning in a shooter etc.) the image moves, but these slightly darker areas stay still, and that makes them really stand out.
As for how it looks, I tried to make an example in photoshop:
Original Image:
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3045/td1ja9.jpg
Then imagine turning the car around a bend, and then it looks like this:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/959/td2hq7.jpg
It's those lines in the clouds. If you can tab between the two images, you can see the difference easily. Imagine seeing those lines appear, every single time you move in a game. (I haven't tested this in movies yet, but I am assuming it's the same).
It isn't very clear on a static image. But when the image moves, the darker areas stay in the same place and it draws your eyes towards them. It isn't terrible, but it is annoying, especially consider how much this screen cost.
Message was edited by: telelove

Please help with a new dual purpose PC build

Hi everybody in AdobeLand!
I've been reading various boards and hardware sites and have started piecing together a dual purpose computer system. It will be used for both video editing (of pre-shot hacked, high bitrate I-Frame Panasonic GH2 DSLR and camcorder footage using the AVCHD codec @ 1080p 24 and 30 fps) and webcasting/streaming purposes. I would build two computers for each task, but it's just not in the budget right now. I'm already stretching things as is.
I'm still not sure if I will be using Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas Pro 12 yet, though it seems like they organize their folders and file structures about the same. Adobe's cloud service has me a bit scared off right now. This new scheme feels like they have their hand purpetually in your wallet, which does not sit well with me. I may still go with Vegas 12 just to avoid that hassle right now. Help guide me here, experts! Telestream's Wirecast is being used for multi-cam switching and graphics for live and pre-recorded material being compressed and streamed.
Back on topic:
Here's the build as of right now...
OS: Windows 7 64-Bit Professional (Windows 8 absolutely sucks!)
CPU: Intel i7-4930k 6-Core Ivy Bridge (own)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 Pro (own)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 1.35v Sport DDR3L @ 32 GB (own)
GPU: EVGA GTX 770 FTW w/ 4 GB (will buy another HD monitor at a later date, hence the 4GB memory)
Case: Fractal Design XL R2 Full Tower
CPU Cooling: Noctua NH-D14 w/ SE2011 Bracket
PSU: Corsair RM1000 Quiet Series / 80 Plus Gold / 1000 Watts
Monitor: Dell U2412M Ultrasharp 24 inch / 1920x1200
Optical Drive: LG Blu-ray Writer
Keyboard: Microsoft 4000 Ergonomic
HDMI capture cards: Blackmagic Designs Decklink Mini (x2)
Storage:
I bought two Samsung 840 Pro SSD drives: one 128 GB and one 256 GB
Thinking about possibly 2 (maybe 3-4 if I really stretch) Seagate ST3000DM001 3TB HDD's.
I could sure use your help with any advise on arranging the storage to get the best bang vs. buck in speed and storage utilization (Wirecast can be setup to record live webcast sessions at 720p or 1080p in compressed files... probably no more than 120 minute webcasts... so that comes into play as well). Just don't have the funds for an uber-expensive RAID controller card right now.
Any opinions overall on the parts for the current build? I still have time to send back and exchange anything already purchased.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

What do you not understand from:
With all the reading and writing going on, on the boot disk, it is understandable you need a (number of) dedicated disk(s) for video editing, especially with the bandwidths required when the clip duration is short and the number of tracks exceeds one and uses a codec more complex than DV. The kind of files used during editing are, in order of their need for speed:
Media cache & Media cache database files, created on importing media into a project. They contain indexed, conformed audio and peak files for waveform display.
Typically small files, but lots of them, so in the end they still occupy lots of disk space.
Preview (rendered) files, created when the time-line is rendered for preview purposes, the red bar turned to green. Read all the time when previewing the time-line.
Project files, including project auto-save files, that are constantly being read and saved as auto-save files and written when saving your edits.
Media files, the original video material ingested from tape or card based cameras. Typically long files, only used for reading, since PR is a non-destructive editor.
Export files, created when the time-line is exported to its final delivery format. These files are typically only written once and often vary in size from several hundred KB to tens of GB.
When you are doubting which category of files to put on which kind of disk, especially when using both SSD's and HDD's, keep in mind that the speed advantage of SSD's over HDD's is most noteworthy with the Media cache & Media cache database. These files are frequently accessed, are small and there are many, so reducing latency and seek times and increasing transfer rates pays off by putting these on a SSD, rather than on a HDD, even if it is a raid0. Export files can go to the slowest volume on your system, since you only export once. To help you decide, I have added priority rank-numbers for speed, with 1 for the fastest volume and 5 for the least speed-demanding category.
and
Well, in the benchmark tests we have not seen any noticeable difference between SSD and HDD in terms of performance, but logic dictates that there should be a small difference in performance when the volume used for media cache is a SSD, because of the much faster access time and lower latency compared to a conventional disk. If it is noticeable, it is specifically on this volume with the media cache and media cache database, due to the large amount of small files that need to be accessed and written. This argument does not apply to the media volume with a limited number of files, that are very big in size.

Need some help with the colour profile please. Urgent! Thanks

Dear all, I need help with the colour profile of my photoshop CS6.
I've taken a photo with my Canon DSLR. When I opened the raw with ACDSee, the colour looks perfectly ok.
So I go ahead and open in photoshop. I did nothing to the photo. It still looks ok
Then I'm prompt the Embedded Profile Mismatch error. I go ahead and choose Discard the embedded profile option
And the colour started to get messed up.
And the output is a total diasater
Put the above photo side by side with the raw, the red has became crimson!!
So I tried the other option, Use the embedded profile
The whole picture turns yellowish in Photoshop's interface
And the output is just the same as the third option.
Could someone please guide me how to fix this? Thank you.

I'm prompt the Embedded Profile Mismatch error. I go ahead and choose Discard the embedded profile option
always use the embedded profile when opening tagged images in Photoshop - at that point Photoshop will convert the source colors over to your monitor space correctly
if your colors are wrong at that point either your monitor profile is off, or your source colors are not what you think they are - if other apps are displaying correctly you most likely have either a defective monitor profile or source profile issues
windows calibrate link:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Calibrate-your-display
for Photoshop to work properly, i recall you want to have "use my settings for this device" checked in Color Management> Device tab
you may want to download the PDI reference image to check your monitor and print workflows
and complete five easy steps to profile enlightenment in Photoshop
with your settings, monitor profile and source profiles sorted out it should be pretty easy to pinpoint the problem...

Does anybody know how to get help with this one?

Hello there!
I wanted to get an advice on how to get in touch with the appropriate person at BT that could help with my situation.
I have tried telephone help, complaints by email and unfortunately still waiting for somebody from the customer services to help me out.
I have recently moved home. I contacted BT on 26th June to organise the line transfer to the new address. The date was set for 18th July. I also ordered line rental saver and paid for it over the phone. All went smooth, telephone and broadband was working fine at the new place, but on the 23rd July I was sent an email that "BT is sorry that I am leaving".
I thought it was a mistake, but the lady in the on-line chat said somebody stopped my service. Later she rang and left a message saying that I must have requested to move to another provider. Did not manage to speak to her again, but phoned the help line this time.
There a gentleman was trying to convince me that I called BT and cancelled my service on the 18th July and to him I was not a BT customer anymore. The truth is that I did not request to stop my service, anyway - why would I do that after paying for a year in advance. This has no logic, but because computer says so then he thinks I did it.
He also added that my account is a 'mess'. He then promised that somebody would get in touch to sort it out as my line rental was gone and my phone and internet could go off any minute.
I did not get any help. After that I wrote to them 3 email complaints to request assistance. They called and aknowledge they will help, but 3 weeks down the line nothing was done to explain the situation. Left the messages to the person from email complaints to ring me or email me -never happened.
Last week I got 2 emails welcoming me to BT and outlining the call plans that were diferent from each other and the one I agreed to on the 25th June. When I called help line 2 days ago a lady confirmed on which one I am on, but could not sort out the most annoying thing - the 'final' bill.
I was sent a bill for over 200 pounds due to premature termination of phone and broadband service , which I never ordered. They already took the money this week. My line saver is gone as well. So I am 360 pounds short. I aslo have no access to myBT to monitor my phone activity or make orders.They also did not send any confrimation of the call plan I am currently on.
It is a very annoying situation, because somebody at BT made an error and I am unable to get to anybody that could help. Everytime you call the help line you speak to somebody else and despite me thinking the email complaints would be the way forward they are not. Would appreciate some advice on how to tackle these issues: false accusations from them, inappropriate billing, problem with myBT.
Thanks Lukasz

Hi lbadek
I can help with this please send us an email using the contact the mods link in my proifle and we will investigated from there.
Thanks
Stuart
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
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Need help with installation

I recently received a laptop from school to access my online classes. When I tried to use Adobe Reader I received the following message: Adobe Reader 9.1 has encountered a problem and needs to close. Sorry for the inconvenience. I tried tech support at school and was told to uninstall and reinstall the program. During the installation process I received the following error: Error 1321 The installer has insufficient privileges to modify the file C:/Program Files/Adobe/Reader 9.0/Reader/Onix32dll. I need this program for school. Can some one please help me.

Hello again, Michael,
Was unable to do the UAC changes. Buttons where not highlighted. I just went ahead and uninstalled Adobe and downloaded Foxitsoftware and it works. Thanks for all your help Michael you have made my online school experience better.
Sincerely,
Sherri Lee
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:03:52 -0600
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Need help with installation
Hello again, Sherri:
It's my pleasure to provide assistance when I can :•) Having just recently graduated after 7 years of effort just to get a 2-year degree, I can relate to needing software to get class work accomplished. I will do everything I can to make it happen for you today.
Since you didn't mention, the UAC setting, I'd like you to disable it for me if it isn't already:
1. Open Control Panel
2. Under User Account and Family settings, click on the "Add or remove user account"
3. Click on any user account
4. Under the user account click on the "Go to the main User Account page" link.
5. Under "Make changes to your user account", click on the "Change security settings" link
6. In the "Turn on User Account Control (UAC) to make your computer more secure" click to unselect the "Use User Account Control (UAC) to help protect your computer". Click on the Ok button.
7. You will be prompted to reboot your computer - do so when ready
You may need to uninstall/reinstall Reader after the reboot in order for the problem to go away, but that part I am not certain of. Try to duplicate the issue prior to taking that step.
If you are unable to resolve issues with Adobe Reader, I recommend using a different reader that has much less bloat and is updated regularly:
http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/reader/
FoxIT is a FREE alternative to using Adobe's Reader. Support for free Adobe products is limited forums such as this. The same holds true for open source alternatives except the manufacturer usually helps support their forums while Adobe doesn't monitor this forum or any like it. I know how important it is for you to focus on your classes so don't beat your head against a wall just because Reader won't work when a viable solution exists.
Best of success in your pursuit of knowledge!
Michael
>

Help with working with color and profiles

Like many others, I suspect, I am having trouble managing the colors on my iMac to match the prints I get. I have a few questions, but first, some background:
1. Screen calibrated with Huey Pantone. Calibration was done with monitor brightness all the way to lowest. I don't use Shades or anything else. I have my Display Profile set to this profile. I'd be happy to post my .icc profile if I knew how. I can email it to anyone who can help here.
2. I have been sending my prints to Costco with the option of turning OFF their Auto Correct. To try to get things to match, I downloaded Costco's printer profiles from http://www.drycreekphoto.com/icc/Profiles/Minnesota_profiles.htm#MN (Eden Prairie, Glossy and Lustre paper profiles).
3. I shoot photos with a Canon XTi with color space set to sRGB. I am using iPhoto 08.
So here are my questions:
1. I loaded the Costco printer profile icc files into /Library/ColorSync/Profiles/Displays. When I open ColorSync, I see them under Profiles/Displays. However, in ColorSync/Devices/Displays/iMac, when I go to change the profile, I navigate to these files but the computer just beeps and won't take them. I thought all icc files could be used by monitors and printers - can these Costco iccs only be used for printers (I noticed the Costco files are 4MB, the other display iccs are 4KB)?
2. How does iPhoto handle color spaces? I import my photos off my CF card. Under iPhoto / Prefs / Advanced, I have both Copy Items and Embed ColorSync Profiles checked. Which color profile is it embedding? The one from the camera (some generic sRGB) or the one my display is using (the Huey)?
3. As a test, I exported my photo as a full size TIFF (a 3.3MB jpeg became a 28MB tiff). I opened the TIFF in Preview. Preview / Tools / Assign Profile came up as "Camera RGB Profile" (so I think this answers question 2 but I'm not sure). While in Preview, if I now change the Display Profile (from Huey to Adobe RGB), the whole screen changes, including the photo I'm looking at in Preview - shouldn't Preview hold the photo the same since it's using a different color profile?
4. I set the Display Profile back to Huey. In Preview, I go back to my photo and under Tools / Assign Profile I assign the profile my Huey profile (instead of Camera RGB). I save this as a jpeg and reimport into iPhoto. When I compare these two photos side by side in iPhoto, they look indistinguishable. Why, if on the original import iPhoto embedded the Camera RGB profile into the photo and I make a copy assigning the Huey profile do they look identical? There's no reason to assume that the Camera RGB and Huey profiles are the same! Or is it some trick where the Display Profile is overriding everything?
5. Lastly, I reopened the original TIFF export in Preview and assigned it the Costco profile (happened to use the glossy one). Lo and behold, what appears on the screen is a much closer version to what I got back as a print. Finally, as one last tweak, I changed my Display Profile from Huey to Adobe RGB and the picture I saw in Preview was closer still to what I got back from Costco. I changed the Display back to Huey, kept the Costco profile assigned and saved my TIFF back to a JPEG. I imported into iPhoto and compared - it looks much closer to my Costco print.
So I'm utterly confused. How do professionals manage their color workflow? Is my Huey calibration whacky? Why, if I assign a color profile to something in Preview, does it really depend on what Display Profile I have set (I thought profiles managed color, but it looks like it's relative).
I apologize for the rather long post, and very much appreciate any help and suggestions here!
Thanks!

The contractual requirements between the vendor and your company may be the key. The contract may or may not discuss whether the vendor's permission to modify the material includes an obligation to make the documents usable. "Usable" may be construed to mean providing original files. If the vendor is required to provide originals, they may or may not be required to provide them in a common format, like MS Word, rather than the proprietary FrameMaker format they use. Their providing a PDF may completely satisfy their obligation; your lawyers may be helpful here.
HTH
Regards,
Peter
Peter Gold
KnowHow ProServices
bmr0330 wrote:
I did ask them for the source file but they haven't been forthcoming with that. I may look into the evaluation copy of FM anyway but considering the price ($868 USD through our catalogue supplier) I doubt I would be able to get a licensed copy once the evaluation runs out. I do appreciate the suggestion though. Thank you. Brian

[CS3][JS] Help with image resizing

I'm still a newbie of ID scripting.
I'm using js scripting in Indesign CS3 to make an auto-impaginator and I have a problem with images.
I charged my contents from an xml set of tables, that I put into a fixed textFrame of the master page.
Because of the table needs to fill multiple pages, I made a function that keep creating pages and link the textFrames so that the table continues in various pages.
In this whole process I have some images too, that I need to resize them to fill the cell, because now they pass the parent cell.
I found a method that looks at the bounds and resizes the image and the rectangle too, but it doesn't work always, because if a image is overflowing, it hasn't any bound and it fails, and this causes other problems in my process, so I would find another method.
So:
Is there another way to resize an image on-the-way while importing it? Some xml attribute or preference?
Or some method that works also if the image is overflowing?

These forums are pointless. Adobe must believe that other users will cut the mustard. Absolutely a waste of effort for everyone. Adobe should PAY at least a junior developer involved in the projects to monitor and help with these posts. FLEX rules yeah and thousands more do scripting than develop plug ins...
Come on Adobe, step up your better than this. Customer Service can be free to the customers ... we are not talking about GET IT ALL FREE, talking about buy it and create a community and support it, but then again LAYERS and INDESIGN SECRETS have people who actually want to help users rather than rabbit hole everything.
Please join hands and SING...

[CS3 JS] Help with adding textMacros

I can get a textMacro added with the following.
app.textMacros.add("myName", "this is some text")
What I am having trouble with is having the Remember Text Attributes be grabed or set to true.
Any one know what the syntax is for setting this during the add()
also how do you insert a macro via a javascript?
Mahalo
David

These forums are pointless. Adobe must believe that other users will cut the mustard. Absolutely a waste of effort for everyone. Adobe should PAY at least a junior developer involved in the projects to monitor and help with these posts. FLEX rules yeah and thousands more do scripting than develop plug ins...
Come on Adobe, step up your better than this. Customer Service can be free to the customers ... we are not talking about GET IT ALL FREE, talking about buy it and create a community and support it, but then again LAYERS and INDESIGN SECRETS have people who actually want to help users rather than rabbit hole everything.
Please join hands and SING...

In need of immediate help with FCP new user taking over colleagues position

Good Morning. I am in urgent need of some help with a specific final cut pro question. My coworker and I have been working on a video project for our employer, a university. He ran the editor (FCP) and I ran the logistics of setting things up, keeping the contacts and scheduling, etc.
He has left until late August and there are two major typos in his work which is posted to the web at the moment. I need to correct these typos and have less than a faint idea of how to do it.
First of all, what is the file's last three letters? (.doc, .mov, etc...)
Second, can I edit this as easily as I think I can? Just click in the text file along the bottom timeline and edit that way?
How do I export the movie as an mp4 file after i have edited it.
Anything else that would be deemed helpful is always appreciated!
I really appreciate the help. I was never trained on this program because I never needed to be. Unfortunately, as it turns out, I did.
Thanks for the help!

You need to locate the Project file. Which will be somewhere in your colleague's User space.
In the Finder, press command and F to activate the Find function.
Make sure the following parameters are set:
Search *This Mac* and Contents
Kind is Documents
Type the project name.
The icon looks like this:
Double click it to launch Final Cut Pro with the project.
To locate the text overlay, click on the Timeline to make it active. Use the down arrow on your keyboard to jump from one cut to the next. The text overlay will look similar to this:
Double click on the Text clip. This will place it in the Viewer (the left "monitor").
Click the "Controls" tab above the Viewer and make your changes. Press Return.
Clicking anywhere in the Timeline once more will update it.
Make sure that no clips are selected and the Timeline is the active window.
Go to the menu bar: File > Export > Using QuickTime Conversion.
In the window that opens, make sure that Format is set to QuickTime Movie.
Click the Options button. Look at the top of the next window.
Does it say Compression Setting: H264? If it does, great.
If not, click the settings button and choose H264 from the *Compression Type* button.
At bottom left, drag the Quality slider to Best. Click OK.
This brings you back to the previous window.
Click on Size if you need to change something -there are a number of presets, but you can choose a custom size if you wish. Click OK.
That window is dismissed and returns you to the Save dialog.
Type a name and choose a destination for your file.
Message was edited by: Nick Holmes

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