I can't completely control my cursor on my macbook pro, and it keeps jumping to the right of the screen and switching my screen to the dashboard or utilities. Any ideas on what might be causing this, and what I can do about it?
i can't completely control my cursor on my macbook pro, and it keeps jumping to the right of the screen and switching my screen to the dashboard or utilities. Any ideas on what might be causing this, and what I can do about it?
If you have another pointing device installed, remember that the Mac uses "all sources live". You can literally use two or more mice or two or more keyboards at once.
Your trackpad, if that is what you are using, must be very clean. Any debris may be seen as another "finger".
Similar Messages
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My MacBook Air keep Restarting while I'm using it over and over again.. What might be causing this problem ?
The next time the problem happens, note the date and time the problem occurred, then go to Applications/Utilities/Console and copy the log starting at the time of the crash. Paste the log in a reply. Please do not use a screen shot as they can be hard to read. If there are repeated runs of the same messages, please post only one run. Be selective about what you post and don’t post huge amounts. Make sure there is no personal data visible. Information learned from Linc Davis.
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I am trying to record a meditation from my Macbook Air and an annoying loud sound, like a burp, will suddenly erupt from the MacBook, necessitating I start again. Any ideas on how I may stop this, or what it is??
Click on the blue Internet Recovery in nbar's post. That is a link to what computers can run Internet Recovery.
Do a backup, preferable 2 separate ones on 2 drives. Boot to the Recovery Volume (command - R on a restart or hold down the option/alt key during a restart and select Recovery Volume). Run Disk Utility Verify/Repair and Repair Permissions until you get no errors. Reformat the drive using Disk Utility/Erase Mac OS Extended (Journaled), then click the Option button and select GUID. Then re-install the OS.
OS X Recovery
OS X Recovery (2)
When you reboot, use Setup Assistant to restore your data. -
How can I completely delete an app from my Macbook Pro?
How can I completely delete an app from my Macbook Pro?
For programs that do not require an Administrator's password to install on your Mac, drag its program icon to the Trash. For those that require a password, research its developer's website or other support options for specific uninstallation instructions.
Never use all-purpose "cleaners" or "zappers" or similarly named clever utilities to uninstall anything. -
MacBook Pro 2009
Model Identifier: MacBookPro5,1
Processor 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Software OS X 10.8.5 (12F45)
Iphoto '11
Iphoto on my macbook pro has stopped working. It comes up with a message saying that the library is either being used by another user or it is unreadable. Any ideas why I should be receiving this message?
"Your photo library is either in use by another application or has become unreadable"
Offered solution doesn't work:
Shut down and restart your computer, and then open iPhoto again. If the problem persists, try rebuilding your photo library. To do this, quit iPhoto, and then reopen it while keeping the Option and Command keys pressed. You can also try restoring your photo library from a backup.
I have already copied my photographs to the a library manager but when I tried to reuse iphoto and import the photos back into iphoto, it would not let me.
I can't download photographs from my iphone or my digital camera.
Any ideas on how I can solve this problem?
There is a possibility that when I went to update applications that I started to install Mavericks which I then interrupted and cancelled. I am not definite that this caused this problem but it was at about the same time as when this problem started.
Many thanks,
EdI have already copied my photographs to the a library manager but when I tried to reuse iphoto and import the photos back into iphoto, it would not let me.
You can't "copy" your photos to the "library manager", there is just no way to any such thing.
Option 1
Back Up and try rebuild the library: hold down the command and option (or alt) keys while launching iPhoto. Use the resulting dialogue to rebuild. Choose to Repair Database. If that doesn't help, then try again, this time using Rebuild Database.
If that fails:
Option 2
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
Regards
TD -
Can't back up my Iphone5 to my macbook pro, it tells me it may be corrupted, also I don't know how to delete the old backup to redo it
Hi Caveman337,
Welcome to the Support Communities! The resource below will explain how to delete an old iTunes backup. Before you do this, I would suggest creating an iCloud backup of your iPhone.
Back up and restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch using iCloud or iTunes - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203977
Back up using iCloud
If you're using iCloud, it can automatically back up your content. Use these steps to turn on iCloud Backup:
Tap Settings > iCloud > Backup. If you're using iOS 7 or earlier, tap Settings > iCloud > Storage & Backup.
Tap iCloud Backup to turn it on.
Tap Back Up Now.
After you turn on iCloud Backup, iCloud will back up your content automatically. You can return to this screen to see when the last back up happened.
Create and delete iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch backups in iTunes - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/ht4946
Where your backups are stored
The folder where your backup data is stored depends on your computer's operating system. Make sure the backup folder is included in your data-backup routine. iTunes places the backup files in these places:
Mac: ~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup/
The "~" represents your Home folder. If you don't see Library in your Home folder, hold Option and click the Go menu.
Delete a backup
If you want to delete a backup created by iTunes:
Open iTunes Preferences:
Mac: Choose iTunes > Preferences.
Windows: Choose Edit > Preferences. Learn how to turn on menus in Windows 7 and 8.
Click Devices. (The iOS device doesn't need to be connected.)
iTunes will show the phone number, International Mobile Equipment Identity (IMEI) number, and serial number of the backed up iPhone when you position your mouse pointer over a backup. (Only the serial number will be shown for iPad and iPod touch). You can use this to find the backup you want to delete.
Select the backup you want to remove.
Click Delete Backup.
When prompted, confirm that you want to remove the selected backup by clicking Delete Backup.
Click OK to close the iTunes Preferences Window.
Backups that have a date and time stamp in the backup name are copies of backups created by restoring the iOS device. The date and time in the left column are when the restore-from-backup occurred. The date and time in the right column are the last synced date; this shows how current the data is.
I hope this information helps ....
- Judy -
My iMac does an automatic restart several times a day. It gives me a option to send in a "panic" report. This happens randomly during the day and night. Any idea of anything new that might be causing this? I am up to date on all applications.
Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" (AV) software. The usual answer is "no." That answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions.
It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. AV software is not intended to, and does not, defend against such attacks.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't been checked for security by Apple unless it comes from the App Store, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial AV or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
Hi, my MacBook Pro has become very slow... what could be causing this and what can I do to fix it?
Hi, my MacBook Pro is working very slowly.. what could be causing it and what can I do to fix it??
First, back up all data immediately, as your boot drive might be failing.
There are a few other possible causes of generalized slow performance that you can rule out easily.
Reset the System Management Controller.
If you have many image or video files on the Desktop with preview icons, move them to another folder.
If applicable, uncheck all boxes in the iCloud preference pane.
Disconnect all non-essential wired peripherals and remove aftermarket expansion cards, if any.
Check your keychains in Keychain Access for excessively duplicated items.
Boot into Recovery mode, launch Disk Utility, and run Repair Disk.
Otherwise, take the steps below when you notice the problem.
Step 1
Launch the Activity Monitor application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Activity Monitor in the icon grid.
Select the CPU tab of the Activity Monitor window.
Select All Processes from the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected.
Click the heading of the % CPU column in the process table to sort the entries by CPU usage. You may have to click it twice to get the highest value at the top. What is it, and what is the process? Also post the values for % User, % System, and % Idle at the bottom of the window.
Select the System Memory tab. What values are shown in the bottom part of the window for Page outs and Swap used?
Next, select the Disk Activity tab. Post the approximate values shown for Reads in/sec and Writes out/sec (not Reads in and Writes out.)
Step 2
If you have more than one user account, you must be logged in as an administrator to carry out this step.
Launch the Console application in the same way you launched Activity Monitor. Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Select the 50 or so most recent entries in the log. Copy them to the Clipboard (command-C). Paste into a reply to this message (command-V). You're looking for entries at the end of the log, not at the beginning.
When posting a log extract, be selective. Don't post more than is requested.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some personal information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. That should be easy to do if your extract is not too long. -
The sound has been working fine until yesterday. I turn the volume up but no sound. Not while playing games or with key taps. What is causing this and how can I fix it? Thanks so much.
I did a search for "no sound" and found the solution. Thanks for the info.!
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I'm not sure if the problem has to do with iOS 6, but the problem started around the time I upgraded to it. I was playing Infinity Blade II when my iPhone shut off on me. I tried restarting the phone but once the lock screen showed (The battery was also shown to have a 64% charge), it quickly shut off again until I hooked the phone on the charger. This time the phone showed that it had a low battery and displayed the screen showing the empty battery, but then after a minute, the phone's lock screen appeared again with a 64% charge again. This keeps happening when ANY application is running when the phone is near 68%. The only time I've gone below that is when the phone was left overnight on standby. I have no idea what's going on or what's causing this. I could really use some help.
Also I've already restored my phone, and the problem still persists.Chris,
Definitely sounds like the battery controller is, at the minimum, out of synch with the battery itself. This can happen from with this type of battery.
But considering the age of the phone, I'd say it is more likely time to replace a nearly bad battery.
At least do this. Run the phone until the battery dies.
Power it up, and run it until it dies again.
If the battery is truly dead, upon power up you should get a large red dead battery symbol in the screen.
At this point plug it in to charge. DO NOT USE IT. Allow it to charge to 100%. This will re-calibrate the battery.
If it does not help, you should replace the battery.
-Alan -
My iPhone 4s shuts down at least once a day, usually after I used it or when I'm not using it at all. It will not turn back on unless I reset it (by pressing home/power buttons) and when it turns back on, it runs like nothing happened. I have tried everything I can think of, update iPhone software, iTunes software, troubleshoot on Apple's Support page and reading other user's issues but I haven't seen anything similar. I erased and restore factory settings several times, made different backup attempts and even restored from recovery mode with iTunes. Everything goes great, no error message or anything unusual, until phone is off again, very frustrating. It doesn't seem to have a pattern to it, it happened when no apps were running as well as when a few apps were. The only thing I can think of is I haven't seen this happening when charger cable is plugged it. I don't really care about apps and content on the phone, but my contacts and voicemails are the only reason why I absolutely have to restore from backup, even after setting up a new phone, from iTunes. Other than that phone is brand new, battery is also great, nothing wrong with it (apparently).
I would like to know if somebody knows what this could be, and any ideas on how to fix it. Thank you.Start with this comprehensive troubleshooting article:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3521
Look at this one for possible solutions:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3353
Ciao. -
I have always used the yahoo toolbar to store my bookmarks. I recently had my computer serviced for an network problem I was experiencing, and since its return to to I have found that I must install the yahoo toolbar each time I open firefox. The toolbar does not stay for subsequent sessions like it had in the past. Is there a setting or problem that may be causing this?
You can check for recently installed suspicious or unknown extensions.
Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode|Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions (Firefox/Tools > Add-ons > Extensions) or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem.
*Switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox/Tools > Add-ons > Appearance
*Do NOT click the Reset button on the Safe Mode start window
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Safe+Mode
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes -
help!
These are also in the Troubleshooting tips, but it works for me.
What system are you using Mac or Windows?
a. If Windows. run Chkdsk drive: /F
b. if Mac run Diskutilty -> CRC
Click on the iPod device
select FirstAid tab on the right window.
click on the first Aid Button.
Then connect to iTunes and Restore.
Good luck. -
I have always used Firefox and for web browsing and accessing my email account. During the last 2 days I upgraded my email home page and had to sign on again.
Since then, I can access the web using Firefox but cannot sign into my email, the sign in button seems to be locked
I can access my email account through Explorer, and from an alternative PC.From your description that sounds like absolutely nothing happens, nothing moves I'd guess Adblock Plus extension might be blocking something, try disabling ADP at its toolbar icon, if you have the extension.
If you are not saving cookies for google.com you could have problems with cookies which would be the next thing to check out.
If you bring up http://www.google.com do things work, and do you really need to sign in to use Google at all -- just want to make sure it is really the sign-in. -
I have an iPhone 5 16g ios 8.2 and it keeps randomly deleting the songs I manually put on from cds or flash drives. The songs I purchased from iTunes don't delete just the ones I manually add. It has happened three times, once after I added 399 songs, once after I added 27 songs and once when I added 45 songs. Sometimes an error (-54) pops up but not always, it's just in an instant all the songs I put on are suddenly gone. I have uninstalled and reinstalled iTunes three times, reset all the settings on my phone and also restored my phone to factory settings. Nothing has worked. I have a 4th generation iPod and I have never had this problem. Any and all suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
x0SiN0x:
Welcome to Apple Discussions..
My first suggestion is to Repair Disk. Here's how:
Insert Installer disk and Restart, holding down the "C" key.
Go to Installer menu (Panther and earlier) or Utilities menu (Tiger) and launch Disk Utility.
Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in the left panel.
Select First Aid in the Main panel.
(Check S.M.A.R.T Status of HDD at the bottom of right panel, and report)
Click Repair Disk on the bottom right.
If DU reports disk does not need repairs quit DU and restart.
If DU reports errors Repair again and again until DU reports disk is repaired.
If DU reports errors it cannot repair you will need to use a utility like Tech Tool Pro or Disk Warrior
Please post back and let me know how that goes.
Here are a few links that may help you to identify the issues:
Resolving Disk, Permission, and Cache Corruption
Tuning Mac OS X Performance
Mac OS X System Maintenance
Please don't hesitate to post back should you have further questions or comments, or with update.
Good luck.
cornelius
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Why do my imported clips playback really weird?
I imported all these clips from my camera and when I played them back they were all sped up but the audio was normal. I am new to final cut and I would really appreciate the help(: