I run the battery faster since I installed OS X 10.8.4

I run the battery faster since I installed OS X 10.8.4.
what can i do?
Thanks!

Open Activity Monitor and choose All Processes instead of My Processes. Sort the processes by CPU and see if there is a process causing the CPU to be constantly in use draining your battery. Try an SMC reset as well and see if there is any improvement.

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Why is my macbook air getting so hot, fan running, and burning through the battery fast?

why is my macbook air getting so hot, fan running, and burning through the battery fast?

I have started to experience my computer getting really hot also. Since one month back in time it has started to get raging hot (up to 99 degrees celsius) just by surfing the internet. Sometimes it stays that hot but most of the time the temperature gets lower after about 15 minutes..
this has never happend before and i am starting to get worried..
what is the problem and is there a sollution??

Why my macbook air getting so hot, fan running, and burning through the battery fast?

why my macbook air getting so hot, fan running, and burning through the battery fast?

are you playing intense games on your Air?
If so, that would be the reason
More details necessary for evaluation, please

Hello, I have a problem with my mac book pro after running the battery dead on a game. The display has shrunk leaving two black margins on either side. What to do ?

Hello, I have a problem with my mac book pro after running the battery dead on a game. The display has shrunk leaving two black margins on either side. What to do ?

Go to System Preferences>Displays and set the resolution to "Best for this computer" (or something to that effect).
Clinton

Please run the Photoshop installer and re-install Photoshop

Hi!
I just upgraded to PS CS% from PS CS3 Extended. Download went well as well as installation.
After, i deactivate CS3 then i uninstall it using Adobe installer.
Each time, i opened CS5, i have the following message:
"One or more files in the Adobe Application Support folder, necessary for running Photoshop, are missing. Please run the Photoshop installer and re-install Photoshop."
I reinstalled it but i'm still having the same message. I didn't play much with it but it seems to work properly...
What could it be?
Regards!

The problem most likely is uninstalling an older version after installing the new one.
The Uninstaller removes certain support files which it can't tell are the new ones.
The solution in your case is to uninstall CS5 first, then uninstall CS3, run the Adobe CSClean Script, Repair Permissions with Apple's Disk Utility, only then install CS5, and the Repair Permissions with Apple's Disk Utility again.
All Adobe upgrades are full installers and do not need to find a previous version of the software installed. When they don't find a previous version of the software installed, they'll just prompt you for the old serial number.
It's not mandatory to uninstall older versions, but if you don't want to keep the older versions, uninstall them first, before installing a newer version. I have all versions of Photoshop from 7.0.1 through 11.0.2 ("CS4") happily coexisting on my machine. I can even run two versions of Photoshop simultaneously, just by launching the older version first and assigning separate scratch disk volumes to each.
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

My touch screen wont work. i've run the battery all the way down then plugged in but screen doest work

after running with my Itouch i came home can could not get the touch screen to work. Ive run the battery all the way down, plugged it in but the screen still doesnt work. any ideas?

Hold the home button and the sleep/wake button (...) until the screen goes black, then turn the thing back on. If it doesn't work correctly, hold the home button while plugging it into iTunes and restore it.

Why the iPhone 4 16GB drains out the battery faster after upgrading to ios 5?

Why the iPhone 4 16GB drains out the battery faster after upgrading to ios 5?

Not sure, but try this:
Let the battery drain to below 20% (I went to about 14%).
Plug your phone in and leave it to charge COMPLETELY. This took my phone somewhere around 4 hours to complete.
When you're done, you may have better luck keeping a charge.
iOS 5 adds a lot of additional communication, and every time you connect wirelessly to anything, more power is used. Even so, some people report that a battery cycle like this helps. It seems to have worked for me.

My battery needs service as it is not working for long. Apple claims it is not a defective battery and that it is my fault since I had the computer for 2 1/2 years and have only run the battery down to empty 100 times. It is my fault because I did no

Con't
Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently and kept it plugged in for extended periods of time, that it is my fault the battery is failing. I disagree because I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging or not to keep it on and plugs in for extended periods of time. I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods. I feel that Applecare should cover this battey issue and not charge me for replacing the battey. I feel I should have been told to not keep my computer consistently running on with poweror the battery will fail. Has anyone had this problem? Apple should replace my battery under Apple care as my battery does not keep a charge anymore.
I'll wait to hear.

You said---Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently
You said--- I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging
You should never do that on purpose, whoever told you that had it wrong or you misunderstood something
Sure you dont have that backwards? thats exactly what you DONT want to do.
Did you often drain the battery very low? that would explain a lot.
Someone might have been misinformed about "battery calibration" regarding much older Macs with removable batteries (see bottom)
You said-----I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods.
thats a problem there, youre not supposed to do that.
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
*If you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.

Battery Dying Since Tiger INstall

HI,
I just installed Tiger a bit ago and since then, the computer will shut off at 30% remaining, just this morning there was 45% left and it went. This has happened only since installing Tiger, before then, I enjoyed almost 6 hours of use and the meter worked correctly. My applecare just ran out and the tech on the phone wouldnt evcen hear my problem, I think theyt should at leats have a listen. Anyone have any ideas?? p.s. I have tried calibrating several times to no avail, and remember, this only started happenening when I installed Tiger.
_Baxter

I had the same problem and it happened twice upon installing a new OS update. I highly recommend removing the battery before updating the OS. I tried the PMU but no luck. Apple in the end did replace my battery...but it failed about 6 months ago after an OS install/update from a reinstall of a new hard drive. It is very fishy that the MBP has a 33% problem very much like the iBook problems of past. This battery problem popped up big a few years ago, then fadded. It appears to be isolated now but every so often someone posts here the exact same issue. Never found anyone posting a valid answer...Ronda seems to live in the iBook forums and is knowledgable but consitantly denies any connection to the OS or firmware...but the MBP battery issue seems to indicate it can happen. So to answer you're question...no one really knows why...could be a bad battery, could be the software/firmware? In the end, you only have one choice if the PMU reset does not work, buy a new battery.

Is it good to run the battery down on the Itouch til it shuts off?

I have a habit of leaving my Touch on and letting the battery run down til it won't even turn on. Is this bad for the battery?

It's good to deplete it once a month or so, but continual draining to zero is bad for Li-Ion batteries.
See THIS article.
Scott

App running the battery down?

The battery in my iPhone has started running down pretty rapidly in the last few days. It could be the battery itself, of course, but I am wondering whether there is an app running in the background that is consuming a lot of battery power. Could this be the case? I know how to press the Home button twice to see the apps that are in the background. But is there a way to find out which of the apps might be consuming a lot of battery power? Thx

I too have this exact problem - and I think it was occuring before I updated to 4.2.3. Today I started with 100% power. It has been on charge via USB all day, but in the hour it took to get home, it reduced to 10%.
Add to this, a lot of my apps are crashing - just shutting down half way through.
- Facebook - just shuts down
- SMS message - variably shuts down half way through messages.
- Email - one of my accounts works, the other (work) stopped working on the 21/4. When I go to Settings>Mail, Contacts, Calendars> and select the account, it just hangs, before shutting down back to the main screen after a couple of minutes.
In essence, my Iphone is completely screwed at this point in time.
I have done what was suggested about (Sleep + Home buttons) but no difference to the Email function (I can't disable it - it wont get in that far).
BTW - it's a 3GS, and not Jailbroken.

Running the battery down

Hi, is it correct that every now and then I should unplug my MacBook Pro and allow the battery to run down?
Someone mentioned doing this at one time.
Just curious.
Thanks.

Hi
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=mac/10.4/en/mh2339.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446?locale=enUS&viewlocale=enUS
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1519
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
Tony

How to run the form that is only installed on a PC and not using a server?

Hi
I am new to Oracle and have taken the forms class. But I do not understand how to run the form from my PC using XP windows. (Do not have access to a server).
I have started the OC4J, made sure the listener was started, compiled the form and then when I run it, it automatically goes to the HTTP:
ERROR: res://ieframe.dll/acr_depnx_error.htm#,http://kevin:8889/forms/frmservle
I connected to the database correctly. I can process a report and it does nor try to access the internet. My only issue is running the form. I verified it compiled.
Sorry for a basic question. Could someone please help, I tried reviewing other questions, but not sure if they are connecting to a server or not.
I see webutil but is it required if I don't have a server? Thank you in advance.

Regardless of the version, it appears that you may not have configured the Builder. Do the following:
1. Open the Builder
2. From the menu, select Edit > Preferences > Runtime
3. In the box labeled "Application Server URL:", enter a local URL needed to run a form OR click the button labeled "Reset to Default". If you decide to manually enter a value, it would looks something like this:
http://localhost:8889/forms/frmservlet
4. In the field labeled "Web Browser Location:", enter the path and executable to your preferred browser. So for example if IE is your browser of choice the entry would most likely look like this:
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\IEXPLORE.EXE
5. Click on OK and retest.
By the way, you can manually enter a URL in the browser. Clicking the RunForm button from the Builder is strictly optional. To run the "test" form directly from the browser enter the following into the browser's address field:
http://localhost:8889/forms/frmservlet?form=test
More information about Forms can be found on OTN:
http://www.oracle.com/technology/products/forms/index.html

Is it recommended to run the battery on a iPhone 6 plus when experiencing battery draining issues?

iphone started going from 70% to nearly flat in 8 hours or so, should I drain it flat, or go to my local Apple store for advice?

Hi, Cuzzystyle.
Thank you for visiting Apple Support Communities.
Battery life can be difficult to troubleshoot as multiple factors contribute to how long a charge can last. Graphic intensive applications, display brightness and data connectivity are just a few of the items that can cause the battery life to decrease rapidly. I would need to know a little more information about your usage patterns to give you and idea on how to maximize battery life. However, here are some tips on how to adjust settings and charge the device that may help.
If you can’t charge your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203030
Maximizing Battery Life
Cheers,
Jason H.

If I have a large photo as my lock screen and home screen will it drain the battery faster than if it were a smaller image?

If I have a high resolution / large sized image set as my lockscreen / homescreen will that effect the battery life of my iPhone 4S?

I do not believe so. Either way, the display of your iPhone is just showing a picture as a wallpaper, if you had no wallpaper or just a black or white one, your phone would still be displaying something (the pixels are still on). Your pixels don't know what they are displaying, so your phone is still using the same amount of battery. Hope this helps!

I run the battery faster since I installed OS X 10.8.4

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