IMac Power Up Issue

I had a weird problem this weekend. My Mac locked up after a Microsoft Word issue. After the forced quit I tried I turn on the Mac. I heard the CD make a noise but nothing else. The screen didn't come on and no noises from the Mac. I hit the power on button a few more times and nothing at all - not even the CD drive. I check all my connections and power cord and everything seemed ok. Hit the power button again and still nothing. I unplugged the Mac and moved the plug over to another outlet on my power strip. Hit the on button and everything came right up. At this point I don't know if I have a bad power outlet on the strip or if completely unplugging the unit caused it to start up. Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks,
Jim

All I did was turn off the Mac and changed to a different AC receptical on my power strip. Hasnt happened again. It could be the AC receptical but I dont have any way to confirm it. All I know is that it all working. You might be able to do the same but instead of unpluggng and using a AC port try to plug it into the same port and see what happens. Maybe unplugging the Mac from the power sourse reset something. Go figure.
Jim

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Intel iMac Power / Overheat issue?

Hi there,
I have an Intel iMac from 2006. About 2 years ago it started to just turn itself off randomly as if there was a power failure. When it does, the only way to power it back up is to switch it off at the plug, switch it back on and press the power button (strangely) twice. I have noticed it seems to be temperature related - when my iMac reaches around 78C (which I'm pretty sure it should be able to handle fine?) it tends to be in the danger zone and at any minute can switch itself off.
I've got around this by using smcFan Control - which thankfully displays the temperature in the menu bar meaning when I hit around 72C I can whack the fans up to full blast to keep the temperature down. Being a sound studio computer - the hum of the fans really isn't ideal, but it at least makes my computer usable. However, I'm currently in the middle of a big project on Logic and I've had to turn my room into a fridge (window open-more clothes on) to be able to work on it as all the processing involved heats it up to 75C+ in no time.
I was hoping someone could shed some light on this or at least tell me if I am right in thinking that 78C is nothing really and the iMac should deal with it easily.
I have seen tons of posts regarding the G5 iMac power problems and similar problems with the intel iMacs - I've done all the hardware resets (PRAM, SMC, PMU) as suggested in these forums but nothing has helped.
I have had the power supply changed in the past (before this problem arose) as one day it just went kaput. Don't know if that makes any difference but I'm pretty sure that the problem started a little while after the replacement was installed.
Thanks in advance!
Message was edited by: Lee_Head

LR is a Universal Binary app. YOu're good to go. I did a migration from iBook to MacBook recently with no issues.
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.9 & Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/

1st Gen iMac Power Supply Issue

I just got my iMac G5 back from Apple after having the power supply and logic board replaced for the second time in two years.
It is apparently a fairly common problem with the first generation iMac G5s. I've basically been told it's a problem with no real solution and that they'll fix it for free (for the first three years). It's great that I'm within the three years, but if it happens again after October, I'm likely going to have to foot the bill to get it repaired.
Does anyone have any more detailed info on this issue (other than Apple's Repair Extension doc)? Would turning off the computer each night prolong the life of those parts? Would turning it on/off everyday reduce the life of those parts?
Any thoughts/comments?
Thnx...CN
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
iMac G5

Just to add to BB's comments, I doubt that leaving the computer on will have any benefit at all for you in terms of longevity. If you have problems with faulty capacitors , and the like, in fact it will probably make the issue worse rather than better (though I doubt this will be a problem for you if your logic board was replaced after about April 2005). Doing so will probably also add a little extra wear to the bearings of your HD (unless you have it set to spin down when not needed) , and will cost you a little more (but not a whole lot - though when we all leave them running the environmental costs continue to mount) in electricity over time.
You should probably also shut down every so often anyway - maybe once a week or so, to help clear some potential memory issues that can persist with some applications even under OSX, and you should certainly shut down at and start up again at any time when you notice slowdowns, program "hangs" or other problems.
Cheers
Rod

Slightly Different CRT iMac Power Up Issue

So I saw several variations on CRT iMac Start-Up Power issues, but none seemed quite what I have going on. I have a graphite CRT iMac (bought around 2000) that I was hoping to limp along with for a good chunk of this year but realized it's time might almost be up. I'm now worried it sensed me drooling over a new Mac Pro, got jealous, and fried itself... grin
The house had a power outage recently, and I do keep it plugged into a surge protector. However since then, when I press the power button it gives an initial chime as usual for a second with what sounds like the drive starting to whir and then immediately shuts down again. Repeat presses of the power button do nothing... UNLESS I unplug the power cord and plug it back in and it does the same chime w/ immediate shutdown.... I've opened the case, attempted to reset the CUDA or whatever it is called (if I'm pressing the right button like I think so...) and tried to blow the dust out as best I can. I've tried booting it upside down as suggested in other items. I haven't replaced the battery, which I assume is the one that looks like a short fat AA battery (Made in France which I found interesting for some reason...)?
Any input on this would be greatly appreciated...
I have replaced the slot loading CD/DVD drive in this machine twice just fine, so I do have some experience with the innards to draw upon.

I don't know about that... but your CRT iMac symptoms sound like a bad analog video board. This is the part that connects internally to the CRT. When you first start the iMac, the startup process checks the board. If it does not pass a test, the iMac shuts off (probably for safety reasons). Pushing the button again does nothing, until you unplug it, which resets the iMac to try again.
The same thing happened to my iMac. Is your iMac a slot-loader or a tray-loader?

G5 20" iMac Power Supply Issues Again!

Well, both of our old G5 iMacs have had the logic boards replaced under the extension repair program. Also one of of them had the PSU replaced as well under the same program. Well, now the other one has gone south. I pulled the power supply out and it had several bulging capacitors so I replaced them. However, I also noticed that there is a fried surface mount transistor right next to position R4 on the under side of the board. I've replaced the caps but I can't figure out the values of the fried transistor. I've taken some pics of it. I'm really hoping to track down the part and fix it myself. However, if not, might anyone have a replacement PSU for this 20" imac or know where I can get one inexpensively?
2nd question:
I went though the process of a service agreement on the Apple site. I entered the problems and got to the final page and it quoted me $74.95. However, I'm not sure what this charge is for. Do I ship the entire iMac in? or is this for a replacement PSU? I'd really like to make a trip to the Apple Store but we're stuck at home with a newborn for the next several days.
Anyway, any information would be great.
Thanks much,
Robet
Message was edited by: RRack

Hey Robet,
service agreement on the Apple site. I entered the problems and got to the final page and it quoted me $74.95
Hmm but you wouldn't have a service agreement on this machine. Call as DaddyPaycheck suggests.
I also noticed that there is a fried surface mount transistor right next to position R4 on the under side of the board. I've replaced the caps but I can't figure out the values of the fried transistor.
Wow you must be pretty good to want to try to replace that SMT transistor! I'd be afraid that there would be other damage as well: diodes, power ics, switch mode chips etc. I've got 4 G5 supplies here and only one worked after the cap swap. I didn't feel trouble shooting the entire supply was worth the time.
What I've done is more on the lines of this:
http://gallery.me.com/iamkimc#100033
Actually any ATX (non Dell) supply will work.
I extract 2 12V leads from the hard drive power plug using a pin extractor like here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQDS6G
I bought this but so far only use the top one. It works well. If you're only doing a few you can use some of the tricks here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-88644.html
If you look at the iMac G5 ALS pinout:
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/images/imacg5power_supplypinout.gif
and compare it to the 20 pin ATX:
http://www.subedartech.net/docs/pc/connectoratxpinout.GIF
On the right you see that the difference in the first 20 pins is: Pin 12 -12 VDC and Pin 18 - 5VDC. So I extract those two pins clip them off. Shrink tube the ends and replace them w/ 2 yellow leads (+12VDC) that I extract from the hard drive leads. Once cleanly extracted they just push and lock in place.
Note that pins 11 (black, ground) and 22 (Brown + 24VDC) are not covered. If you have the early ALS you don't need these two leads (go figure) but if you have the later or 20" you need a separate supply for those leads. I use a old 24VDC PowerBook supply for that. Model M7783 it puts out 24VDC at 1.0A.
It's kind of messy but all the parts fit behind the iMac and aren't seen.
Also it seems like you're watching your pennies w/ the new baby. (been there)
we're stuck at home with a newborn for the next several days
More like months with us.
Good luck and I hope you're sleeping.
Richard

Moving to Germany with my IMac- Power Cord issues

Hi,
Does anyone know how I can safely use my iMac G5 in Germany? I bought it in the U.S. but will be moving to Germany for 2 years. I would like to bring my computer with me but as far as I know, the line voltage of my computer cannot exceed the following:
 Line voltage: 100-120V AC
and Germany uses a 220 volt/50 hertz system. How should I deal with this? Can i just use a regular power converter?
Thank you,
heringji
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.9)

G'day Jill,
You can find the instructions for replacing the built in power supply yourself at http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/imacg517inch_PowerSupply.pdf
These people will sell you one for $145 (the ALS PS also fits the "first generation" models), or replace it themselves for you for $195. (about the same price many Apple places charge for the part alone)
Expensive, I know, and you can get a 350 watt (about the size you need to relaibly run an iMac) "voltage converter" for significantly less, but if you go down the latter path make sure you get a good one.
Cheers
Rod

Imac Power Issues

Hi,
I'm a new Mac user, and have had my system for quite a while. Over the several months I had it, I would notice the system rebooting for no reason coming off of display sleep, the speakers would pop, I would see the desktop and then a reset would happen.
Unbeknownst to me, the system never actually went into sleep mode (even though I had it set to do so).
After the latest firmware update it does go into sleep mode (Yay!), but still reboots randomly.
I tried all the fixes on this board, SMC, PRAM reset, removing boot programs, taking out the ram and putting it back in, and have found the system is rebooting randomly less often.
EXCEPT, it seems that when the system is not yet asleep, but the display is asleep and I move the mouse to bring the system back on, it reboots itself from time to time, but not if I press the keyboard. I'm content with bringing the system back by hitting the spacebar, but I'm wondering if this may be a sign of something worse and I have to bring it in for dreadful servicing.
Would anyone know some reason why this would happen, or where I can check in the error logs for the cause? Sonce this only seems to happen when the system is in display sleep I think its a software problem, but since my system didn't even fully sleep for the first 3 months, it could be hardware.
Another simple question, should moving the mouse bring back the system from full sleep? Mine doesn't.
And has anyone else experienced this?
Thanks,
Aaron
Intel Imac Mac OS X (10.4.6)
Intel Imac Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Random restarts are sometimes attributed to bad RAM.
My dads iMac had this issue.
Insert your original iMac Tiger install disk and read the Apple Hardware Test Readme, and follow the instructions.
To bring the computer back from sleeping the display only, moving the mouse should do it fine.
To come back from full sleep, hitting the spacebar does it for me.

Power on-Power off issues with X200

I am having power up and power down issues with my Lenovo X200.
Prior to the immediate problem, I would experience occasional unexpected shutdown of the computer (I would hear a relay click when it happened), and on some occasions when I put it into hibernation, then power it back up later it would not resume, instead, it would restart with a new session of Windows.
About a month ago, it shut down while I was using it. I powered it back on, but it took a long time (nearly a minute) to get the “ThinkPad” initial boot screen, then the screen would be blank for about a minute, then I would get a screen that read, “Intel Management Engine BIOS Extension v 4.0.4.0007” and also “M.E Initializing……” That screen would show for about a minute, then I got another screen reading “Security chip is generating endorsement key pair. Please wait.” That screen would show for about 5 minutes, then it would read, “Generation failed!!!” for about 5 seconds. After that, it would boot to Windows (I am using Windows 7 Professional).
When I would shut it down, either in hibernate mode or full shutdown, after the hard drive icon stopped flashing (indicating it had shut down), the power icon, battery icon would stay on, and the “sleep” icon would flash. I would have to hold the power button down to turn those icons off; if I failed to do that the power would stay on until the battery completely drained.
I read something about the “Security chip is generating endorsement key pair” message so I went into BIOS and changed the security chip from “Active” to “Inactive”. However, when I would start the computer with the chip “inactive”, it would go first to the initial boot screen, then to the “M.E. Initializing” message, then the screen would go blank and remain blank, not ever booting to Windows. So I went back to BIOS and changed the security chip to “Disabled”. With it disabled, it will boot up, but still is very slow booting and I still get that “M.E. Intializing” message for about a minute, and also I still have to hold the power button down to power down the computer after I shut it down (or hibernate) with Windows.
The good news is that, after this started happening, I have not encountered an unexpected shutdown nor has it failed to resume the previous windows session if I hibernate it.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help.

The difference may be that the G5 iMac bus (where your fire wire plugs into the back) is a powered bus. What this means is the LaCie drive will "sense" the power from the bus and not turn off. The power it gets from the fire wire bus however may (is) not be enough to actually operate it, only leave it on. You still need to the drive into a power outlet.
In the LaCie manual (CD that comes with drive) and the FAQ section of LaCie's web page it states this as well.
What I do is manually turn the drive on when needed (performing back up or for scheduled back up). The LaCie drive should be quiet when not in use as it has no fan.
PS - try SuperDuper for backups, much better (IMHO) than Silverkeeper.

Estimated cost of repair for 2006 iMac power button fix?

Bought a used 2006 iMac, worked first day, next day no response to pushing power button. Tried all the standard stuff.
Any ballpark idea of how much I might have to pay at the genius bar IF it's just a broken power button issue? Under $100? Under $50?

It's not quite that simple, you will need to contact your Local Apple Store or Authorized Apple Service Provider and ask them. Apple - Store Locator
Dennis

HT3988 imac power button pulses but imac will not turn on

imac power button will turn on

Hi and Welcome,
On my old G5 when I saw the red light through the front grill it meant that the machine was not going to boot. I just turned it off in the front, a hard shutdown, when I saw it. For me, I was able to wait for for a while and usually it would start up with no trouble again. But that Mac also had heat issues and sometimes running a small fan through the grill would allow me to start up sooner.
One thing that might be adding to your problem might be the amount of RAM you have, it's a very small amount.
Is your Hard Drive almost full? That can be a problem.
Can you start from one of the OS disks and use the app Disk Utility?
If you have the Discs that came with the Mac (originally), on one should be The Apple Hardware Test. That might help you diagnose the issue.
A PMU reset might get you started again. It's a bit model specific, for some it's just pulling the cord out (sound familiar?) and that resets the NVRAM. For other models this is a good reference: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1436
Quicktime likes RAM, so does your Mac in general, the amount you have is just sliding by.
Take a look inside your Mac to see if it's very dusty inside. That can cause a host of problems.
Good luck.

Magic Trackpad / iMac wake up issue.

Hello,
Does anyone know of a fix for the following Magic Trackpad / iMac wake up issue please?
Basically hooked up a Magic Trackpad that was bought several months ago now and found that it works great however the 'click' functionality does not work whilst waking up my iMac. The cursor moves as it should however it's not possible to click onto either a registered account nor guest account in order to enter a password to wake-up from screensaver.
To get around this I've had to pair-up my Magic Mouse again which is not ideal.
A fix for this would be appreciated.
OS installed: OSX 10.7.5.
Thank you.

Just my .02, but why do you want a screen save? I was told a long time ago by some engineers not to have your screen saver running. Just non essential. Me, I have none of our computers doing so. They time out and sleep in between, so the hard drives and logic boards power down, if not shut down completely.
As for you situation, I had the same problem a while back and believed it was one or more of the apps. in the back ground. Could even be the UPS. Either re load your OS to check any corruption. And/or, check your login list of apps. and finder to see what is running without your knowledge or in the background, then closing out of open programs one by one prior to the screen saver engaging and see if it changes things.

Heat, and Fans, and a Power Supply issue! Oh, My!

Hello,
My iMac G5 2Ghz (20") has been experiencing issues lately which I thought were resolved back when I brought it in for the "Repair Extension Program for Power Supply Issues". I took it to my local Apple Store and they replaced the power supply as well as my HD. The machine kept shutting off at random times as well as heating up, so it broke my HD after several months making me forced to bring it in. First and most importantly, the machine is producing a significant amount of heat which I believe is not normal, especially when doing simple tasks such as opening a file or folder on the desktop just after boot. I don't mean to complain about the heat, but the whole room is filled with hot air and it feels like somebody turned the heat on. I have several other Macs around my house and no two of them make as much heat as this one. (iMac G4 and eMac G4) The fans power on from time to time, but "rev up" when doing CPU intensive tasks. I understand the fans need to be at a higher speed, but they were never this high when I just used iMovie back in 2005 when this was new. Now, I know others have been having issues in these related areas as well, but is there anything else I can do. I have tried about everything, but I am just worried that power supply and HD will go again. Also, the highest inside temperature I recorded was "161.4°F". I thought that the normal temperature was "70°F", so if anyone could tell me that as well, it would be appreciated.
I have tried just about everything:
PMU/SMU reset
PRAM reset
reset-all
repair permissions
You name it, but fell free to reply with something new. (the fans are already clean)
Thank you.

Thanks for the reply. I at one point ran the hardware test using my installer disc and all was fine. It seems that the fans were actually running better when I booted from the disc which leads me to think it could really be partially a software issue. There is a possibility there is something corrupt in the system files, but I had to reinstall Mac OS X a few times due to them replacing my HD. It seems the computer runs cool with the lower versions of 10.4, but warmer with the higher versions of 10.4. It now makes sense because it shipped with a lower version and over time got worse with the higher versions. I am assuming that the people who got their power supplies replaced had the lasted update possible causing this issue. I cannot be 100% that it is software because I do not know exactly which system files run each hardware component. I am currently using the machine a lot and would not be too happy without it for about a week. (although, before the holidays come it may be best to bring it in before the holiday gift repair parade comes in!) Thanks again for the advice and if anyone owns this machine, feel free to share your message.

Is there a way to adjust the bass and treble on my iMac Power PC sound system?

Is there a way to adjust the bass and treble on my iMac Power PC G5 sound system? It has a lot of volume (more than my JBL speakers).

No, but iTunes has an Equaliser that enables you to do that.

Power Mac G5 DP1.8GHz - Bad Logic Board or Power Management Issue?

I have a Power Mac G5 DP1.8GHz/1.5GB/80GB which I bought non-working. It has not yet been disassembled or examined by a certified tech. This is it's issue (which replicates): the computer powers on. It makes a single warning tone, then the LED flashed at least 15 times (too fast to count). Then the posting chord is heard. Hard drive spins up. Then nothing (no video). Won’t boot from any disk. I have changed the RAM and tested the RAM banks with known-to-be-good RAM from another DP1.8GHz G5. The warning tone stopped once or twice after this switch, but then it didn’t chime. I changed the PRAM battery, but not with as new one. However, after installing the used one and then resetting the PMU, it displayed video briefly for the first time. While installed in the other 1.8GHz G5, the hard drive was formatted, given a clean install of OS X 10.4.11, and then moved into this computer where is never mounts. The computer is not accessible through TDM.
Do I have a bad logic board? Bad CPUs? A power managment issue? A RAM issue?

Through my own trial and error troubleshooting, I have found the CPUs to be in good working order and the logic board passes the Apple Service Diagnostic every time. Despite the installation of numerous pairs of modules that worked in another DP1.8GHz, the computer has a RAM issue-it gives the "no good RAM" tone most of the time when it powers up (after a PMU reset it does not). Also the computer boots from disk or into Open Firmware but the disk utility can't see either hard drive so I may have a bad SATA controller.

Can i take apart the imac power cord to put it through a hole in my desk. I'm able to get the ring off, but dont want take the housing off incase it breaks

can i take apart the imac power cord to put it through a hole in my desk. I'm able to get the ring off, but dont want take the housing off incase it breaks

I hear you. The reason I asked is that on the computer end of the cable, I took the ring off and it looks like there are some clasps around the housing, so I was wondering if these were for the purpose of threading the the cable. I will try and get some pictures. The drill is charging, however!!
Thanks
P

IMac Power Up Issue

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