Image stabilizing

i just wondered if FCP does this as good as motion does or wether its worth exporting the clips to motion for stabilizing and then bringing them back into FCP. Or is it worth getting a plugin like coremelt.
thanks for any help

re Motion vs. FCP in this regard, my understanding (which appears to be confirmed in this related thread: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2246688&tstart=0)
is that in the new Motion (v4), as well as having much greater control, only the portion of the clip being dealt with +in Motion+ has to get analyzed, whereas in FinalCut the entire media file needs to be analyzed before the SmoothCam filter can be applied. If you've got short Timeline clips connected to significantly longer media files, this alone might be a reason to send things over to Motion.
Just a thought.
jb

Similar Messages

  • FCP 4.5 Image stabilizing

    Hi All,
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    Thanks,
    Paul

    I will second the recommendation for iStabilize. It would be nice if it was built-in to FCP so you didn't have to export and import the footage. But it works well and I like the controls. It seems to be important to be able to balance how big a residual image area you use versus the stabilization time filtering, as well as selecting which parts of your clip to avoid due to extreme motion.
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  • FCP X not image stabilize HDV footage

    I have a Imac 27 inch 11,1, I5.
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    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    What is the status on the availability of this product? SKU (SKU: 4839135) is on the website but it states for store pick up only.  When you select a store, any store for that matter, it shows as unavailable.  it does not state the item is on back order.
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  • Lightroom and Sony A700 Raw (ARW) Files

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    I have your lighting right here, JM.
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    http://www.sonolta.com/sony-photos/v/sony+a700+test+photos/_DSC1191-Sigma+24+EX+DG.html
    http://www.sonolta.com/sony-photos/v/sony+a700+test+photos/_DSC1209+Konica+Minolta+28-75D. html
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    http://www.illinoisphoto.com/pictures/d/60803-3/23538903.jpg
    http://www.illinoisphoto.com/pictures/d/158377-2/25744617.jpg
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    http://www.illinoisphoto.com/pictures/d/60815-3/Male+Red+Finned+Borleyi
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  • Monitor colors funny and too bright after 10.3.9 update.

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  • Video pans from Canon 5D mark 3 look sloppy whats up?

    Ive tried alot of settings to get a good clean pan, inluding auto but nothing is working.  Video is a little jumpy.  Using a tripod and various speeds.  The memory card is fast. 

    Hello anneLouise,
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    Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

  • My tips for taking good photographs .

    Taking good Photographs in simple terms
    Getting sharp images:
    For best results use a sturdy tripod and lock-up your mirror prior to clicking the shutter with a remote release (or use the shutter release timer).
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    Buy the best quality lenses that you can afford. A consumer camera body with a high quality lens will obtain better quality images than a pro camera body with a consumer spec kit lens; spend wisely!
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    There are various ‘rules’ for helping with composition, the most commonly used being the rule of thirds; divide the scene through your lens into three both vertically and horizontally giving four points of intersection; place the most important element on one of these intersection points.
    Remember that rules are there to be broken and achieving good balance in an image can be more important than force fitting some arbitrary rules!
    Crop your image to a shape that gives most impact; letter box, square etc.
    Light:
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    Landscape photographers use graduated Neutral Density filters to darken the sky so that all tones can be captured.
    The light at and around sun rise and sun set is much warmer than at mid day and shadows are much longer resulting in much more pleasing images, particularly for landscape photography. That said, there are times when the soft light pre-dawn, post sunrise, or on an overcast or misty day is the perfect light for the subject. For each subject consider what will work best and the angle that you will make the image; also consider B&W / mono as days with dull colour can make great B&W images.
    Post Processing:
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    Get as much right in camera and try not to over-do the processing; a good image can be ruined whilst a poor image cannot be turned into a good image!
    Improving your skills:
    One great way of improving your skills is to join a local camera club where you will learn from the experienced members.
    Alternatively (or in addition to joining a camera club), enrol onto a photography course.
    Most importantly, get out with your camera and practice!
    Examples:
    To see examples of putting the above into practice feel free to take a tour of my web site, link below:
    http://www.final-image-photography.co.uk/
    Does anybody else have any advice?
    http://digitalcamerascompare.com
    For good camera reviews.

    All very good points. I would just add that prime lenses will usually produce better quality pictures. A prime lens has a fixed focal length e.g. 35mm, 50mm, 85mm etc. However most of us prefer the flexibility of a zoom lens which can stay on the camera and avoids the need to constantly change lenses for the job in hand, or to carry around a large kit bag. So there is a trade off between best quality and convenience.

  • Focus Problem on the t3i

    My t3i is having focusing problems. What can be the cause?  Can I fine to the focus like on the fullframe cameras?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Kolourl3lind wrote:
    OK I will but I just relized maybe it's because I am zooming after focusing and recomposing?
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    3 stops slower is 1/4 sec.  At this point you're pushing the image stabilization system... you'll notice that if you shoot a lot of frames, that the "keeper" rate (good shots you like) will be lower, but you'll see that you are getting some.
    4 stops slower is 1/2 sec (based on the base of 1/30th for an 18mm focal length on an APS-C size sensor camera).  If you push any image stabilized lens to 4 stops, do not expect to get a very high keeper rate.  It'll sometimes help you, but you have to accept that you're really being ambitious in your expectations.
    That's image stabilization by the numbers... take the focal length, multiply it by your crop factor (which is always 1.6 but if you want to use 1.5 because it's a bit easier to do that math in our head it's close enough), round up to the nearest shutter speed available.  If you have image stabilization you can speed up the shutter speed by 1, 2, 3, or 4 times faster... but each time you get more ambitious your odds of getting "keepers" go down (but it's still better than no image stabilization at all.)
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    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • I must be doing something stupid: Very poor quality DVD rendering!

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    Thanks a lot, F Shippey.
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    Message was edited by: new2appletv

  • How to disable the anti-shake feature on a canon powershot elph 330 hs when taking video?

    Hello Canon Users,
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    See, what happens is, I have my camera on a stable surface (my tripod), Then, when I move, for example moving my hands or my body slightly, the background shakes a little bit. I don't know why, but I'm assuming it has something to do with the stabilization. If I stay perfectly still, the background will not move, and everything will be fine. But even the slightest hand gestures or body movement makes the background shake.

  • Nikon D40 or canon eos digital rebel xt

    I'm looking to make the transition from p and s cameras to an SLR. I have my eye on these two cameras. I'd be using them mostly for scenic shots and sports photography. I don't really have a budget (I don't mind spending more for the canon), my concern lies with the practicality of using each at my level. If I get the canon will there be too many options for me to grasp? Alternately, if I get the D40 will I quickly outgrow it and have to spend more for a new camera anyways?
    I also had a question about shooting raw jpegs. I'm fairly fluent in Photoshop cs3 in terms of design and compositing elements. Can CS3 edit raw jpegs or will I have to purchase a program like Aperture? Thanks.
    Message was edited by: Paperwayte

    Are you buying these "used" and at a substantial discount from suggested retail? Both are old and have been replaced by cameras in the same price range with substantially better specs.
    The Canon EOS Rebel XS and the Nikon D3000 compare with nearly identical specs. Both have 10 Megapixel sensors. Sensors are nearly the same size. Both come as a 'kit' with an 18-55mm image-stabilized lens, and both have similar street prices (you should have no trouble finding them for about $470 -- both Amazon and BH Photo sell them at that price.)
    When I look for the Rebel XT or D40 they're hard to find and the places that claim to have them want more money for them than the substantially improved cameras that took their places in the respective model lines.
    10 megapixel crop frame sensors do a very respectable job. Unfortunately those start 18-55mm zoom lenses are "good" but not "great". With higher quality lenses these cameras will take much better pictures. Unfortunately high quality lenses cost as much or more than the whole starter camera outfit -- so that's probably something to grow into.
    I don't know the Nikon lens line-up as well as I know the Canon (I'm a Canon guy but I'm not particularly biased.... basically in the competitive landscape of DSLRs it seems to be a slug out between only Canon and Nikon. There are lots of others but I think they trail behind.
    Though you can get models with 12, 15, 20, megapixel I think 10 is really very substantial. At this point the lens quality becomes a major factor in how good the photos will look as many lenses don't deliver enough definition for higher resolution sensors to show off their best work. This is the case with the 'starter' lenses that come with these cameras. They are "o.k." and will take decent pictures (far better than you'd ever get with a compact camera), but when you take a tool like Aperture and put the image in full-size mode (so every pixel on the screen represents a pixel from the camera) you'll see that the images aren't so crisp. At that point it's more about acquiring better lenses than it is about acquiring a better camera.
    On the Canon side, the EF-S lens series are designed specifically to work with the crop-frame sensor cameras. The EF (without the "-S") are designed to work with the full-frame sensor cameras but will also work perfectly with the crop-frame (EF works with any Canon EOS -- Rebel or not). The reverse is not true (EF-S lenses will NOT work with Canon's full-frame sensor models). If you plan to upgrade but keep your lens inventory then keep that in mind when making purchase decisions. On the other hand, EF-S lenses are usually more affordable -- so if the price of EF lenses isn't practical for your budget (especially the EF lenses that come with "L" series optics -- astonishingly gorgeous optical quality but VERY spendy price tags.) you might just stick with the EF-S lenses anyway.
    Similarly, the Nikon's come in crop-frame sensor versions (e.g. the D3000) or full-frame sensor versions (e.g. the D3). Full-frame is MUCH better, but also much more expensive. You'd have to ask a Nikon guy how their lens line-up works. I'm assuming they have similar nuances, but I'm afraid I can't be much help there since I have no experience with them.
    As for Aperture vs. Photoshop... they're very different beasts. Photoshop does wholesale image manipulation. Aperture does better photographic quality adjustment and also manages all your photos but doesn't do wholesale image manipulation (e.g. you couldn't cut a person out of one photo and stick them in another using Aperture. But you can touch-up images in Aperture... e.g. remove a minor object using the clone tool, touch up blemishes, etc.). I have both Aperture and Photoshop CS4 -- not sure how Adobe is for providing RAW updates for CS3 since it's no longer the 'current' version.

  • Ready for a new camera

    Hi,
    I’ve been using the T3i with an EF 100-400 lens for about four years now. I’ve gotten a lot of good service out of it without any problems. I mainly photograph birds but never been happy with my BIF shots in comparison to friends that own the 7D & EF 100-400 lens. What I’ve mainly noticed on my shots is the whole bird is never 100% in focus. And when standing next to friends with the 7D, they are able to get the whole bird in focus. I have tried multiple setting over the years and the only thing I can come up with is the 7D has 19 focusing points and is able to have all the BIF in focus.( or is there another setting the 7D has I’m unaware of? ) I would love to be able to use a 7D but I have lost my grip and can’t even carry my puny T3I around as long I use to. I have noticed that after a few hours I’m starting to quiver and it is noticeable in my photos. Canon announced the new EOS 750 & EOS 760. Both sound like they might be my answer since they have 19 focusing points like the 7D instead of the 9 like my T3I. Camera weight is the main factor in deciding on a new camera along with using my EF 100-400 lens.
    I would really appreciate any camera suggestions and your feelings about the new 750D or 760D. When might these cameras become available for purchase? I’m sure I’ll want to wait until I can hear the good the bad and the ugly before buying. Thanks in advance for your time.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    okiebirdnerd wrote:
    Hi,
    I’ve been using the T3i with an EF 100-400 lens for about four years now. I’ve gotten a lot of good service out of it without any problems. I mainly photograph birds but never been happy with my BIF shots in comparison to friends that own the 7D & EF 100-400 lens. What I’ve mainly noticed on my shots is the whole bird is never 100% in focus. And when standing next to friends with the 7D, they are able to get the whole bird in focus. I have tried multiple setting over the years and the only thing I can come up with is the 7D has 19 focusing points and is able to have all the BIF in focus.( or is there another setting the 7D has I’m unaware of? ) I would love to be able to use a 7D but I have lost my grip and can’t even carry my puny T3I around as long I use to. I have noticed that after a few hours I’m starting to quiver and it is noticeable in my photos. Canon announced the new EOS 750 & EOS 760. Both sound like they might be my answer since they have 19 focusing points like the 7D instead of the 9 like my T3I. Camera weight is the main factor in deciding on a new camera along with using my EF 100-400 lens.
    I would really appreciate any camera suggestions and your feelings about the new 750D or 760D. When might these cameras become available for purchase? I’m sure I’ll want to wait until I can hear the good the bad and the ugly before buying. Thanks in advance for your time.
    If quivering is truly the problem, the traditional solutions are a monopod and image-stabilized lenses. The former should reduce the quivering; the latter is designed to reduce its effect.
    And if the superior autofocus system of hte 7D will help, there may not be a better time to buy one; the 7D2 will inevitably make traditional 7D's harder to sell, The 7D is a very good camera; my two 7D'd have served me well. That's not to disparage the two newer cameras; but early adopters risk the startup pains that new models often have. The 7D is a known quantity.
    Bob
    Boston, Massachusetts USA

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