Incredibly low speeds, ongoing for numerous years.

Have had countless problems with BT from line being installed a month late to being put on wrong exchange and at my previous address where speed was also the issue had around 10 engineers over a 4 year period.
The issue after a house move in August is exactly the same. The speed, I see most people complaining onother threads about what i would consider an amazing DL speed (2MB), our actual DL speed is around 40-100KBPS, and speed tests run at around 0.4MB, with 3 avid gamers in the house and numerous downloads a day going on. I thought posting on here may help as get some progress on line speed increase as surely this is not the maximum attainable by any BROADBAND connection, dial-up speeds were advertised higher than the connection we are getting at the moment, now i know most will say move closer to an exchange or something unhelpful but looking for any sort of help i can gear, here are stats from home hub:
We are also plugged in to the test socket.
Connection Information
Line state:
Connectedppp0_0
Connection time:
0 days, 09:57:38
Downstream:
1.054 Mbps
Upstream:
376 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.3 Annex A
Latency type:
Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up):
3.1 dB / 4.9 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
71.2 dB / 45.8 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
15.2 dBm / 12.6 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
CRC Events (Down/Up):
247 / 264
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up):
74 / 94
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
238 / 94

no noise on a quiet line test, has always been plugged into the test socket with ONLY ADSL filter on, as the front part of box is only attatched by screws, and here are bt speed test results:
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
0.09 Mbps
0 Mbps
1 Mbps Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 0.09 Mbps For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 0.4 Mbps-1 Mbps. IP Profile for your line is - 0.92 Mbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
0.18 Mbps
0 Mbps
0.83 Mbps Max Achievable Speed
Upload speed achieved during the test was - 0.18Mbps Additional Information: Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 0.83 Mbps
This test was not conclusive and further testing is required.This might be useful for your Broadband Service Provider to investigate the fault.

Similar Messages

Incredibly low speeds, assistance needed

My broadband has been incredibly slow for the last week and it's becoming more than an annoyance now.
Simple Web pages like Facebook, Google, youtube and email take minutes to open, old dial up style. I'm posting this from my phone as the forum just doesn't load.
I have a wired connection to my PC but slow speed is affecting all devices, phones which are connected through wiFi and laptops/consoles which are also wired.
Gaming doesn't seem to be being affected still running normally.
BT performance test on wired connection.
1st test
Down: 3.88
up: 0.99
ping: 39
2nd test re run
Down: 8.06
UP: 0.97
Ping: 45
Any help would be appreciated as I'm pretty stiuk on what to do or if there even is anything I can do.
Thanks Nick

welcome to the BT community forum where customers help customers and only BT employees are the forum mods
in order for the forum members to help please can you post the adsl stats from your router you may need to 'show detail' to get all stats (if hub enter 192.168.1.254 in your browser and navigate to adsl or if HH4/5 then go to troubleshooting then logs and you are looking for 2 line together when hub last connected to internet and they will show your connection speed and noise margin or if netgear enter 192.168.0.1). Then run btspeedtester (MAC users may have problems). when first test completes then run diagnostic test and post the results ( do not reset the router).
are you connected directly via a filter to the NTE5 master or test socket or to somewhere else? Is the master the only phone socket in your home?
Have you tried the quiet line test? - dial 17070 option 2 - should hear nothing - best done with a corded phone. if cordless phone you may hear a 'dull hum' which is normal
Someone may then be able to offer help/assistance/suggestions to your problem
If you like a post, or want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post.
If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

Low speed connection, but still have input history.

Hi there,
We have done some tests in our business to see the performance difference between "low speed connection" being enabled and disabled for a system, both from a network perspective, and from a performance perspective on Citrix servers.
We have determined that the 'input history' feature doesn't cause much performance impact, but a lot of the other 'high-speed' features like images and tool tips do.
We would like to be able to have "low speed connection" for our system, but still enable 'input history'. Is there any way this can be achieved, such as through INI or registry changes?
Thanks,
Michael.

I raised a message with SAP, and they responded saying that this is not possible

Upgrade or replace mid-2009 MBP for 4 year doc program

My question:
I'm new to this forum - thanks in advance for your help!
I love my 5 year old MBP, and I loved the one I had for 5 years before it. I assumed I would buy a new one for this doctoral program that starts in 10 days, which I expect will take 3-4 years to complete. I am flummoxed by what Apple has done with the MBP line (SSD drives with tiny storage capabilities, retina displays I worry will prompt massive storage needs as apps upgrade to take advantage of them, and most offensively the soldering of HD and RAM to the motherboard), and really questioning whether any of the machines they are now selling will be useful to me during my 4 years at school. I am leaning toward buying the maxed out version of the last non-retina model while I still can.
Should I upgrade my existing machine (hard drive, OS, what else?) or buy that last MBP model that isn't soldered shut before they discontinue it (and maybe upgrade it anyways)? Will the new machine be significantly better, or even more upgradeable, than my current one?
Concerns that make me hesitate to buy a new machine:
Hard drive size and upgradability: This is by far the biggest issue. My current machine's hard drive is overloaded and I think that's the biggest problem for performance right now. I refuse to pay through the nose for a way-too-small (smaller?!), non-upgradable, hard drive, no matter how fast it loads entertainment apps. This is my only computer and I will not carry around a separate storage drive. The retina machines are not an option for me for this reason (I'm also anxious about the upcoming storage demands for apps with retina capabilities). I made peace with the idea of having a separate external optical disc drive, but that's pretty awkward when I want to watch a movie in bed or on a plane!
What has the MBP lost since 2009?: I think I read something about the current MBP model not having speakers - I love my speakers! They aren't necessary to do my schoolwork, but I love them just the same. What else has disappeared on the MBP since 2009? I'm paranoid that I may have missed other changes since it's been so long since I paid attention to the product line.
Value for the money: If I'm going to spend $1,300+ on a machine I expect significantly better performance. I can't tell if the newer machine with it's faster (though not as fast as the retina machines) processor will be much faster, or much better in general. Buying it basically saves me the trouble of figuring out all of the details for how to upgrade my current machine, which is worth a lot to me. But will the new machine really be better? How so? By how much? Will I be able to upgrade it in the future beyond what Apple offers now (1TB hard drive/512 GB SSD), OSx Mavericks, 8GB RAM, Intel Core i7)? If it is really going to be better or offer more longevity, I'll snatch one up in a heartbeat, because I expect it will be a couple years before those SSDs are big enough to satisfy me. And I'll let Apple max it out for me for $300 because it will save me the trouble of doing so while I'm preparing for school.
Retina second thoughts: Am I crazy for not wanting the retina machine? Maybe I should wait for the SSD to come down in price so one of those machines are more practical (though still not upgradable?!). Or even get one with 512 GB SSD and plan to upgrade in 2 years?
Refurbished option: Should I look for a refurbished non-retina 15" MBP? I like the 13" screen, but think there were bigger upgrade options on the last 15" one.
About my current machine:
I bought my baby new in 2009 for my master's program and he has been incredibly good to me. My only regret now is that I didn't upgrade to the fastest processor at that time - if I had I wouldn't be posting this because I'd just be upgrading. He started slowing down around 2011 so I upgraded the RAM, OS, and I think even the Hard Drive (80 to 160GB?), and at that time I got a new battery and power cord due to a recall. 10 months ago I took him in because he had become painfully slow and the Genius re-installed my OS, but I have noticed a bit of that slow-down returning lately. Google Chrome, Google Apps, MS Office, and iTunes are by far my most used apps, but I do like to open a million tabs in Chrome at once while doing research. I value his speakers because I love music but I do have speakers at home so maybe speakers aren't necessary? He has been tossed around quite a bit - I bought him a neoprene sleeve back in the day but never actually used it and he's definitely taken some nasty spills without any protection.
Complaints about my current machine:
Hard drive storage: My biggest issue is that I had a huge surge in data storage (video and photo for a special project) over the past year and didn't take the time to upgrade his hard drive to make space, so now I have a mess of data in a borrowed iPad and multiple external drives. I want to dump all of that onto the same machine, and it easily fits onto a 1TB external drive, but I do not want to keep it there indefinitely. I like having all of my storage on one machine and I am not ready to buy into the cloud beyond Google Apps. Can I upgrade my hard drive to 1TB or even 500MB? How much does that cost, and what else in my machine will be affected by this change? Should I be looking at SSDs? What are the implications for going that route? Where would it go physically and what would I be giving up?
Speed: He is a little bit laggy sometimes, especially when I open a million tabs on Chrome when I'm researching. I don't switch back and forth between a ton of different programs so startup speed doesn't bother me a ton, but he is a little slow there too.
Battery life: It isn't awesome. It's sufficient but waning for sure.
I spilled water on him: This just happened recently and right afterward I noticed that the track pad is a bit buggy now. It is just a little off of what I expect it to be and sometimes refuses to let me navigate. I haven't tried my wireless mouse since that happened but I imagine that will work fine, and I'm hoping it will go back to normal (open to suggestions to fix that for sure!) soon.
Google Chrome crashes: This has been recent. I've had 20+ tabs open and seen crashes somewhat often. I didn't have this problem before.
He runs hot: I think this is worse since the 2011 upgrades, but honestly doesn't bother me as long as he's safe to use.
He runs loud sometimes: I can hear the fans pick up and kick in sometimes when he's working hard, but it doesn't bother me too much.
Glossy screen is obnoxious: I never bought an anti-glare screen cover to deal with this as I had originally planned. And no, I still don't want a retina MBP.
Possible physical damage from rough handling: I have been rough with him over the years without a case and I worry that he is on his way to some type of physical damage that hasn't shown up yet.
My current machine:
13" MacBook Pro Mid-2009 Model
Processor 2.26 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory 8 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
2X Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR3
Speed: 1067 MHz
Status: OK
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB
Serial Number WQ9240Y466D
Software OS X 10.8.5 (12F45)
NVidia MCP79 AHCI - Hitachi HTS545016B9SA02:
Capacity: 160.04 GB (160,041,885,696 bytes)
Model: Hitachi HTS545016B9SA02
Full to the brim and overflowing
Running OSX 10.8.5
I am considering purchasing this machine:
MacBook Pro, 13-inch Item Price: $1,319 (This is the education pricing for this model, plus I would buy seriously discounted AppleCare and MS Office)
Available to ship: 1-3 business days
Hardware
2.9GHz Dual-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM — 2x4GB
1TB Serial ATA Drive @ 5400 rpm
SuperDrive 8x (DVD±R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW)
Backlit Keyboard (English) & User's Guide
Accessory Kit

Whygirl,
it reads as though an internal disk upgrade (and possibly a battery replacement) would suffice for you, and those two together would be far less expensive than a new MacBook Pro. Yes, you could install either a HDD or a SSD in place of its current internal HDD. You could look at the Hitachi Travelstar 7K1000 as an example of a suitable 1 TB HDD; SSDs are more expensive per unit of storage than a HDD, but might be worth the extra cost if your apps are disk-bound. (I put a Samsung 840 PRO into my 13-inch Mid 2010 model, and it’s been working well.) Note that Chrome might be responsible for the extra heat (and the extra heat is responsible for the increased volume from the fans kicking in); Chrome isn’t optimized for use on 64-bit versions of OS X, like 10.8.5.

Verizon is Capping Internet Speed/Service for "Unlimited" Customers

Some recent news has been brought to my attention by Verizon Wireless' customer service department, and I think that given the severity of Verizon Wireless’ continued breach of contract to Internet customers, this matter should be brought to everyone else's attention as well.
I originally purchased a Verizon Wireless USB Internet Card in 2007. I was offered a plan that entitled me to an “Unlimited Internet Usage Allowance”. I kept the same wireless Internet device for two years and never acquired any issues or concerns. On January 20th, 2010, I went into a Verizon store and was offered a free upgrade to the new MiFi Mobile HotSpot. I was told that I could test the product for 30 days to make sure that it worked to my standards and my Internet needs. It worked perfectly. I used it for multiple computers in my home, as well as work and travel.
My problem with the Verizon MiFi began on October 21st, 2010 when my Internet suddenly became extremely slow and unable to access any web pages without minutes of waiting. I continued to call customer service and go into the Verizon stores throughout the month in hopes that someone could find a ‘glitch’ and solve my issue of what soon became No Internet access. I did all this with patience and good faith, as I have continued to pay $60 a month for “High speed 3G” service. Two weeks ago, I took the MiFi device into the store and requested a new device since it became entirely defective. My new device arrived in the mail and I have still spent the last week going through the ring-around circus of Tech support and the only logic they can come up with is, "Either the device is defective or my computer is too old." This is not the case, as I recently purchased a new laptop.
What I discovered was that Verizon neglected to inform me for the past two months that I had gone over my "undisclosed usage threshold" (Even though I pay for Unlimited Allowance) and now my internet speed has been capped and I am unable to access the Internet. I spent 4 hours on the phone yesterday and weaved my way into a small department called "AIT" which is supposedly a new sub-contracted company that is suppose to help negotiate my "situation". They of course are closed, and my numerous voice mails will most likely never be returned.
At this point, I am still paying for something that does not work, and Verizon has taken it upon themselves to decide "how often" I can use the internet. This was not disclosed to me in my contract that I signed in Jan 2010, when I continued my Wireless plan for "unlimited usage allowance."
I want everyone to be aware of this, before they head out this holiday season and spend hundreds of dollars on a Verizon Wireless Internet Device, and eventually will have to deal with the same nonsense I'm currently going through right now!

I started with one of the few unlimited plans back in 2008- They kept telling me to "hang on to it- cause it won't be around for long!" So I did and when I upgraded my device- everything worked great for 7 months. I started using it more frequently as a hot spot for more than one computer, we're talking email, web browsing and paying bills- Not Xbox360 for 24 hours a day or fownloading 10 videos a day!? I don't even know how to do that!?!
And the first month we went over- we got capped! Now it runs at about a quarter of the speed. Which was never disclosed to me. And to think- they market this MiFi 2200 as a hotspot for up to 5 computers??? I can only imagine how quickly people are being capped.

I Can't Burn a CD any more! and a lower speed does nothing - HELP!

I have been burning CDs on this machine (imac 10.3.9) the same way for years and years. (7)
Up till last month.
This is what I get when I burn a playlist.
"itunes can not burn this cd because your burn speed is too fast for you cd burner or media. Choose a lower speed in the burning pane then try burning again."
I've tried that - even though that seems silly considering I've had no problems at my current settings until now. The lowest burn speed (1) gives me the same error.
I'm hating life and my mac right now, something I though I'd never say.
Anyone?

If you don't have Nero, check out http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=9229334#9229334. I think some people have found a way to get just the Burn Rights program.
If that doesn't work, some people seem to have luck with editing the registry or messing with filters or gear drivers. Check out this discussion starting with Tytus (he came up with the Nero fix) on March 22:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1939904&tstart=0
Hope this helps!

Which is the best low-cost camera for my use?

Hi everyone. Been busy and off the forums for a while, but need your expertise once again.
I just found out that the Panasonic HVX-200p that's been on loan to me for 2 years has to be returned. Since I run a non-profit, I am thinking about asking my major donors to buy one for us. So, the question becomes which one? I own the CS4 MC, and you can see my other info in my profile.
I only do educational-type videos in an interview format against a green screen so far. I've been capturing direct to OnLocation via 1394 FireWire at 720p/60fps and editing in an HDV 720p/30 sequence. I sometimes do "man on the street" segments (capturing to OnLocation on laptop). I integrate numerous PSD graphics as educational slides, a lot of AE projects I get from videohive and customize, render, & import into PP, and motion backgrounds like Pond5's weekly free stock footage (much of this stuff gets resized, of course). I do some scoring and some SFX and export the audio to SB for touchup. I use a bunch of Lowes/Home Depot worklamps with fluorescent bulbs for lighting the subject and background. I key my backgrounds using PP/AE Dynamic Link. Oh, and I'll need a lapel mic and a tripod, too. I would prefer not to rule out shooting at 1080i/p at some point.
I export H.264 highlight clips which get uploaded to Vimeo and embedded in our website using prettyPhoto features. Ultimately, the finished PP project is exported as MPEG2-DVD, finished in Encore, burned via ImgBurn. If you want to see a good example, watch this http://vimeo.com/23346431. Caution: this is religious material. Be sure to repent before watching
So, there's not really much heavy lifting here. But when it comes to what is the minimum I need with the options of capture formats, etc., I'm clueless. I've read about problems with AVCHD, and although low-cost, is it really a problem for what I do? I trust this forum more than online reviews, and I'd appreciate recommendations of specific models and where to buy, if possible. Also, what about used cameras? Please remember, the budget is tight.
All suggestions and questions are welcome and very much appreciated.
Paul

Actually, two things surprise me in your statement and one is simply incorrect:
As for Broadcast quality..... a little station called CNN - you might have heard about them bought 250 of them from Panasonic about a year ago.
First, that CNN would buy JVC cameras not from JVC, but from Panasonic.
Second, there are no JVC cameras on the BBC approved list at all, see http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/commissioning/site/BBC_Approved_HD_Cameras.pdf and the only affordable ones on the list in the handheld category are the Canon XF300/305. Maybe that is the reason the BBC bought 350 of these. Even the Sony XDCAM EX is only accepted in combination with a 50 Mb disk drive, not in the native 35 Mb format.
The BBC approved list is a list that most broadcasters adhere to, including CNN, Discovery, ARD and NGC.
The JVC GY-HD100U is definitely not acceptable for HD, and in no way HD broadcast ready. But that CNN bought that number of these cameras is probably caused by the fact that they think these deliver better quality than regular phones. And it does not use XDCAM, but a very simple HDV codec, limited to 1280 x 720 resolution. See http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/specs.jsp?model_id=MDL101539&feature_id=03
This simply means that the Canon codec is very acceptable to the BBC for HD programs. The XF100 uses the same codec, but is only a single sensor camera and for that reason alone not approved by the BBC.
Paul, if you can live with the limitations of a single sensor camera - and given your intended purposes, I think you can - the JVC does not even come close and the XF100 material will be hardly worse than the XF300/305. To the untrained eye the results are almost the same.

Crazy low speed from the off

hi all,
im a (relatively) new BT customer in a brand new build house. Before moving in i did some digging around to see what sort of speeds i could get with different providers and settled on BT as they seemed to be the best average and i preferred the BT home hub compared to the other ISPs offerings. (i would also add that im an IT engineer so did the usual **bleep** studying beforehand although whether this is a disadvantage remains to be seen)
i have been on the service for a month or two now and am getting dreadful low speeds. On average i get 750kbps down (max 950kbps) and 200kbps up. i have checked the disitance to the exchange with all the usual tools and its 0.9 miles away apprently. I have checked out all of my wiring and tried several ADSL filters but this is the speed i am stuck with.
I opened a case with BT and am getting the usual. (i would mention at this point that there is an issue with the BT site where you check what speeds you MAY get, if you're not a BT customer (which i wasn't) and you stick your address you get the 'up to 12meg' result, if you ARE a BT customer then you put your actual phone number in you get the REAL result. in my case i was advised i would get 'around 12meg' but then i was told i would actually get 'around 1meg', this is not good)
i am advised by BT that my exchange will get ADSL2 by the end of this year (2x-3x? ADSL) but im not counting my chickens. For info i came from a great 20meg cable connection in my old house so theres a big old step in the right direction
Im sure that this has been covered many a time on these forums so apologies if i just havent found my answers and feel free to just link me somewhere or copy and paste some jazz
anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
thanks in advance
David

As already been advised in bits and bobs:
The top tips for a good connection on a long line are as follows:
1) Is removing the bell wire as I have already advised and to have a good clean socket, with all the wires moved away from the connected wires, or snipped off all together, just to ensure as little interference as possible.
2) Would be to get a business hub, there are two available on Ebay, the 2701 (pictured right) and the 2700hgv (pictured left), now the 200HGV's seem to give a better sync speed by about 300kbps give or take, but I find they are less stable, whereas the 2701 decreases the sync speed but is far more stable, and good at holding onto low SNR's, I've seen it hold all night at -2dB Noise Margin and Im on a 9km line.
3) Would be to get a shieled RJ11 cable, as this can reduce the amount of interference, and also importantly it has the twists in as the telephone cables do to refract UV radiation, and Impulse noise just to name a few things. And the ends of them are gold plated with 24k gold just to ensure maximum transition .
Regards Edd
Check your Line
BT Speedtester

I'm having trouble upgrading to ITunes v12.0.1 with Win 7. Download progress bar stalls and eventually cancels itself. Have tried Tools -- Download Only, but same result. Have been using iTunes for 3 years without difficulty

I'm having trouble upgrading to ITunes v12.0.1 with
Win 7. Download progress bar stalls and eventually cancels itself. Have tried
Tools --> Download Only, but same result. Have been using iTunes for 3+
years without difficulty; I have lots of ram, hard drive and speed.
Thanks for your input

One step listed in the link to "helpful" info, was (when Iooked 30 seconds ago), to search for and download the newest version of iTunes. I'm running iTunes on Win 7 machine and was prompted to update today, 10.22.2014, and did so without a problem. Having said that, however, it looks as though the latest iTunes (12.0.1.26) is finally doing what the last version refused to do, which is to actually fully populate all my playlists on my 6, but there is a hitch: 12.0.1.26 will NOT allow you to show the sidebar unless you click on "playlists," that is, you cannot keep it open all the time.
And, when plugging the 6 into the computer, the phone icon shows up but clicking on it does nada. What does work, for some strange reason, is clicking on the tiny icon (just under the "Store" menu link at top screen) which looks much like a tiny barrel, someone's idea of external drives, I suppose. The phone then comes up, with the list of stuff on the phone just under it where the sidebar used to be. Sync is now restricted to the lower right of the screen.
Apparently, you will also need to update your iPhone's software as well; some friends with the 4 and 4s, however, had troubles with them after upgrading. The message from Silicon Valley (I can see Apple from my backyard, ha ha) is apparently, "keep upgrading," folks, get rid of those old phones.

Connection issues and low speeds

Hi there,
my family have been with BT now for about 3 or so years and the connection had been rather good until about late last year. According to my family it's everytime I come back home from uni the internet starts to play up as in:
. Low speeds
.Drops out and loses connection
Believing it was somehow my laptop causing the issues I backed everything up and completly wiped it because BT support thought it may be a virus on my machine even the the checks came back with nothing. So I've wiped my laptop and restarted it like it was a brand new laptop...still we're having these issues so I refuse to believe it's my laptop causing the problems. I've changed the chanel on the hub so many times it just doesn't make a difference. Tried different DSL adapters tried different cables even a wired connection causes problems. I am begining to think it's because the router has had it but I am willing to try anything at this point before asking for a new router from BT. Even BT don't seem to know what the problem is all they do is reset the routers chanel every single time I ring them.
So any advice or help would be greatly appreaciated
Many Thanks
Benjamin
PS - sorry for any grammar/spelling mistakes , I've written this in a hurry before the internet drops out again...

Hi Welcome to the community forums
Here is a basic guide to getting help from the community members done by CL Keith Please read through the link posted http://forumhelp.dyndns.info/speed/first_steps.html
once you have posted the information asked for then the community members can help you more
Thank You
This is a customer to customer self help forum the only BT presence here are the forum moderators
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Alternative low cost suppliers for LV compatible I/O cards

I'm looking for a low cost LV compatible card to use in my lab on Windows
PC's by students, because the original NI cards are not so cheap. Number of
I/O, resolution and speed is not so important, but it must work properly.I
don't want to use the "German" solution with a SoundBoard, because its quite
limited. It must have at least 4 I/O and 8 or 12 bit resolution. Has anayone
any experimence with other suppliers than National Instruments in Europe?
Thanks!

Thanks for the info, i will certainly investigate it next week!
Marc
"kevin" schreef in bericht
news:Y6Y5a.9680$[email protected]..
> In article <3e57dd24$0$83869$[email protected]>, "Marc Thijs"
> wrote:
>
> > I'm looking for a low cost LV compatible card to use in my lab on
> > Windows PC's by students, because the original NI cards are not so
> > cheap. Number of I/O, resolution and speed is not so important, but it
> > must work properly.I don't want to use the "German" solution with a
> > SoundBoard, because its quite limited. It must have at least 4 I/O and 8
> > or 12 bit resolution. Has anayone any experimence with other suppliers
> > than National Instruments in Europe? Thanks!
>
> Check o
ut my response to this post:
>
http://exchange.ni.com/servlet/ProcessRequest?RHIVEID=101&RPAGEID=135&HOID=5
06500000008000000505B0000&UCATEGORY_0=_49_%24_6_&UCATEGORY_S=0&USEARCHCONTEX
T_QUESTION_0=Is+it+possible+to+acquire+an+analog+input+without+a+DAQ+board&U
SEARCHCONTEXT_QUESTION_S=0
>
> Just go to MeasurementComputing.com. I've used these boards for several
> years now and haven't had many problems. I would strongly suggest the
> CIO-DAS08/JR for $179(US):
>
http://www.measurementcomputing.com/cbicatalog/cbiproduct.asp?dept%5Fid=117&
pf%5Fid=183&mscssid=N1UUA2JCKE0P9PWU130KXM64XNRX1SS4
>
> I'm sure they'll provide you an educator discount. Oh yeah, these guys
> aren't in Europe so perhaps the added S/H won't make them so cheap...
>
> Good luck,
> -Kevin

Internet connecting at much lower speed lately

I have HSI Enhanced and have had it for 10 months at this location and for a number of years at my previous location. Last October I was connecting at 3360 / 832 kbps. After some months it went down to around 2800 / 832 kpbs. I wasn't crazy about speeds getting lower as time went on rather than the connection being improved, but it was pretty much free of disconnects and reliable so I was happy with it.
In the past month or so I had noise on my voice line which Verizon fixed, but my connection is now 1792 / 448 Kbps all the time, that is a drop I will not accept if this is the way it is going to be from now on. Also there is a lot of losing the connection, not to the DSL, that light stays on but the internet light goes off. I went through the usual channels online chat, telephone support to wherever that goes. I'm done with all that, that's good for people with trouble using their modem, etc. or can't connect it but not what I am looking for.
Finally they sent out a tech who was a nice enough person, what he did was call a central office and after them first claiming the lower speed was the right speed they put the connection back in the area of 3360/832. Then they said it will probably adjust itself to down around 2800 down, which it what I had before so I was OK with it. After several days with a number of disconnects (they don't last too long but very annoying) I am back to 1792 / 448.
I am using the same modem - Actiontec GT704WGB
I don't need a tech call here in the house again, nothing has changed in here since I moved in months ago. They can check the outside signal without me waiting around for them. They don't have to stand in here to call an office on their tablet.
I need to hear from Verizon personnel that can tell me LOCAL information about why my connection speed has tanked and why there are dropouts now. And most importantly, why it can't be the same as it was for all those months. As I said, I was happy with that - especially when it was 3360 / 832 kbps.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

When Verizon turns your speed back up, they have to disable the optimization system they use on the lines to maintain your speed, since it sounds like that is just turning your speed back down after a few days. Make them fix it back again.
For future note, if you do have problems with your DSL and you're also having audio quality issues with your phone, call Voice Repair, and leave DSL support out of the mix. DSL support usually dials back the speed for a line issue from what I've seen as a first try basis. If you do have noise that disappears when the DSL modem is off, then that could be from other things which DSL support OR phone support will be needed for.
Ex: Two years ago I had a problem with my Frontier DSL line having a ton of static on the line. The DSL modem was not synchronizing, however the noise stopped when I shut off the modem. It turns out, the night before lightning struck a tree outside of my home, and caused the DSL modem which was several years old to fry. The modem was still powering up, but the chip responsible for the DSL connection itself was blown. A new modem from Frontier via DSL Support fixed the DSL connection AND the static.
Ex2: At a local business with Verizon DSL, they hear static on their line from time to time, but only while the DSL is active. The problem was not with the DSL itself or any filters, but as the static got worse it began to show up without the DSL being connected. Voice repair was dispatched instead of calling DSL Support, and resolved the problem by running new cable between the building and the Verizon copper trunk. In addition, they found and corrected some corroding splices.
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The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

I am havign huge problems getting itunes 11.1.4 working on my windows 7 laptop. I have run itunes for some years, and regularly updated it when prompted. I have followed many of the suggestions e.g. uninstalling reinstalling, etc

I have spent hours trying to get itunes working on my laptop.
The only functinoality I crave is to be able to get pictures off my iphone 5 (which has the latest ios installed.), as almost all other functinoality of itunes I find painful beyond belief. It has the worst ergonomics I think of any software I have ever used, which is bizarely at odds with the mobile decvices, which by and large work quite nicely (indeed, why I bought them!)
My laptop runs windows 7. It has all the latest microsoft updates installed (I am religious about this: it always has had.)
I have run itunes on this machine for some years, regularly updating when I am prompted to.
A few days back i was prompted to update to 11.1.4
It failed to install badly. whatever I try at some point during the install process the installer just hangs, or never terminates.
All communication between computer and iphone functionality has been lost.
Nothing eles on my machine is behaving oddly. slowly etc. it is only apple stuff that isn't working.
I googled and found a lot of recurring themes on apple forums:
So far I have tried:
uninstalling / reinstalling. (hangs during installation).
Restarting the machine between uninstall and reinstall.
Searching and removing any directories/ contents related to apple, after the uninstall, prior to machine reboot.
I have even used iobit uninstaller, as removing apple software as you know is almost impossible (ever tried disabbling the quicktime updater that runs at startup? it's like a virus !!)
I have removed all apple software incl quicktime.
I have tried the microsoft software installer fixit link often posted to.
i have tried unpacking the apple installation file, using the latest version of winrar, to try installing one at a time.
I have found the installation is very very very slow (it looks as though it hangs, but i leave it running in the background, after 15-20 minutes, the status starts advancing for example). so far I have managed to install the first few components up to applesoftware update,msi, and they seem to need to be run multiple times.
(this last one took about 40 minutes).
I have been very careful to install / uninstall the software components int eh "prescribed" order.
I have tried each step multiple times, rebooting the machine numerous times, cleaning temp folders (with ccleaner) etc.
I ave tried installing when my virus checker AVG is disabled.
(i have virus checked the machine with AVG and malware bytes, I have the latest microsft security essential updates installed.)
I ahve tried stopping apple services (as suggested in one of the apple forum posts).
As you can gather I'm seriously tearing my hair out.
I presume there is some kind of generic bug in this installer: as a friend had exactly the same problem on sunday night, with a different machine, running windows 7, and a couple of her colleagues at work has had the self same problem over the weekend, though none of them seem to have gone to the lengths I have yet !
I tried doing a system restore, but my machine seems to have lunched all previous system restore points, so I can't . Arrrrrgggg !
Is an older version of itunes available so i can install that instead ?
What should I do next ?
Jonathan

I have spent hours trying to get itunes working on my laptop.
The only functinoality I crave is to be able to get pictures off my iphone 5 (which has the latest ios installed.), as almost all other functinoality of itunes I find painful beyond belief. It has the worst ergonomics I think of any software I have ever used, which is bizarely at odds with the mobile decvices, which by and large work quite nicely (indeed, why I bought them!)
My laptop runs windows 7. It has all the latest microsoft updates installed (I am religious about this: it always has had.)
I have run itunes on this machine for some years, regularly updating when I am prompted to.
A few days back i was prompted to update to 11.1.4
It failed to install badly. whatever I try at some point during the install process the installer just hangs, or never terminates.
All communication between computer and iphone functionality has been lost.
Nothing eles on my machine is behaving oddly. slowly etc. it is only apple stuff that isn't working.
I googled and found a lot of recurring themes on apple forums:
So far I have tried:
uninstalling / reinstalling. (hangs during installation).
Restarting the machine between uninstall and reinstall.
Searching and removing any directories/ contents related to apple, after the uninstall, prior to machine reboot.
I have even used iobit uninstaller, as removing apple software as you know is almost impossible (ever tried disabbling the quicktime updater that runs at startup? it's like a virus !!)
I have removed all apple software incl quicktime.
I have tried the microsoft software installer fixit link often posted to.
i have tried unpacking the apple installation file, using the latest version of winrar, to try installing one at a time.
I have found the installation is very very very slow (it looks as though it hangs, but i leave it running in the background, after 15-20 minutes, the status starts advancing for example). so far I have managed to install the first few components up to applesoftware update,msi, and they seem to need to be run multiple times.
(this last one took about 40 minutes).
I have been very careful to install / uninstall the software components int eh "prescribed" order.
I have tried each step multiple times, rebooting the machine numerous times, cleaning temp folders (with ccleaner) etc.
I ave tried installing when my virus checker AVG is disabled.
(i have virus checked the machine with AVG and malware bytes, I have the latest microsft security essential updates installed.)
I ahve tried stopping apple services (as suggested in one of the apple forum posts).
As you can gather I'm seriously tearing my hair out.
I presume there is some kind of generic bug in this installer: as a friend had exactly the same problem on sunday night, with a different machine, running windows 7, and a couple of her colleagues at work has had the self same problem over the weekend, though none of them seem to have gone to the lengths I have yet !
I tried doing a system restore, but my machine seems to have lunched all previous system restore points, so I can't . Arrrrrgggg !
Is an older version of itunes available so i can install that instead ?
What should I do next ?
Jonathan

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Ai

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Air. It was working fine - I was using LR and a message came on the screen that said something like the memory was dangerously low. I stopped and tried to delete LR files. I couldn't do it. I closed the program and tried reopening and got the message that there is not enough memory available to open LR. I contacted Apple. They spent a half hour on the phone with me and eventually told me they didn't know how to help. The tech said that LR had gobbled up all the memory and said I should contact Adobe and ask where and how my photo files are stored and to delete them. I have several back-ups. Thanks - Arthur

This sort of error message only comes up for Lightroom when your hard disk is full. Indeed this has nothing to do with internal memory as that will be intelligently be dealt with. If you have a mac Book Air that is not so surprising as the cheapest versions come with very small hard disks and if you shoot raw with any recent camera, you'll fill up your hard disk very quickly and you can probably only store a few months of pictures if you are a typical photographer. So the bottom line is that you need to create some room on your hard disk. You should move some of your originals to an external hard disk. You can also delete some of your backup copies of your catalog file that Lightroom automatically generates every few days and that quickly gobble up hard disk space. So first figure out how full your hard disk is. To see that, go to the apple menu, hit -> About this Mac -> More info->Storage. You should see your internal hard disk on top and you'll find that it is almost entirely full with photos. Now find your Lightroom catalog file using Finder. It is usually in a folder in the Pictures folder in your home directory. You should see a Lightroom 5 Catalog.lrcat file, a previews file and a folder called backups. Inside the backups folder, you'll find a lot of subfolders. They have names that show the dates the backups were created. If you have backups of your entire hard disk, you can delete these backups when they are older than a few months. I usually only keep the last 4 around. Just drag the folders into the trash can on the dock on the bottom of your screen and empty the trash. This will probably free up enough space that Lightroom will already run again. Now start thinking about where you will want to store older images. If you have a good USB3 or Thunderbolt hard disk that is probably the best option. There is a video here by Adobe that has some instructions on how to do this: Is Your Hard Drive Full? Here’s How to Move Images to Another Drive in Lightroom. « Julieanne Kost's Blog If that doesn't work because you don't have enough hard drive space to run Lightroom yet, here is another set of instructions to move your files using the finder to the other hard disk: How do I move only my photos to another hard drive, leaving the catalog where it is? - The Lightroom Queen. If you follow that, as soon as you confirm all your images are on the new hard disk, you can delete them from your internal one. She is not so clear about that part but if you don't delete the originals that you moved off you don't free up space. You should move the folder structure over to the new hard disk and then reconnect the folders in Lightroom. That should make it refind all your images.
That said, if you are uncomfortable with the computer in itself, your best bet is to find a local photography club. There is invariably a Lightroom savvy person in there that could help you move your files. That might be your best bet if you are uncomfortable moving these yourself. A general mac savvy person like you would find at an Apple store or so generally will not be able to help you with this except when they are photographers themselves and know Lightroom. You might get lucky with that.

HT202570 My buisness address does not show up on apple maps as a correct address. The address is 1351 summit drive jasper AL 35501 and we have been here for 8 years.

I have been at my buisness for 8 years and the address does not show up as an address in apple maps on any of my devices. How can I fix this? My address is 1351 summit drive jasper al 35501.

@Kilgore-Trout, there is no "contact us" at the bottom of the Apple Map. All I get is report the problem...move the pin, which I have done numerous times. Google maps gets it right & due to that fact, we have to tell vendors to NEVER use Apple Maps when getting directions for deliveries. I love apple, own all their products and now my BMW i3 is using their maps & I would love to have them be responsive.

Incredibly low speeds, ongoing for numerous years.

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