Inside bleed on facing pages?

hi,
im creating a spiral bound booklet in cs4 i've set up master facing pages with my margins and grid, just wondering if it's possible to split the pages so that there is space between the pages to set up an inside bleed, but still remain in a spread layout so I can see how they look together?
elsewhere in the forums someone said there was a script to pull them apart but i couldn't find it, does someone have a link? and how stable would my pages be if I used it?
thanks

And this one
http://forums.adobe.com/message/2106000#2106000
See post 10 for a script to separate the pages for you

Similar Messages

  • Print job best setup - inside edge bleed from facing pages?

    I'm putting together a 32pp A4 report with InDesign CS3 that will be printed from PDF in China.  I'm UK-based and I will be passing the file to the printers electronically.  I speak no Chinese, yet my client has an office in China and one of their staff (non-graphics expert) will be the middle man.
    At the moment I'm setting up my document with facing pages and 5mm bleed.  I recall from a recent UK print job using the same document setup that when I output to PDF with Use Document Bleed Settings ticked, the print bureau complained that images which filled one side of A4 and bled off outside/top/bottom of the page did not bleed off the inside.  I asked them how to give them what they needed and they said the facing spreads needed to be 'separated into single pages' before I made the PDF - this would enable bleed on all 4 sides. I didn't know how to do that and maintain facing pages to allow me to design on a spread-by-spread basis, so I asked them.  They couldn't tell me, so I left it as it was.  In the end they had to trim the pages slightly more on the inside to get rid of any white paper.
    I'm very keen to avoid any problems at all with this print job, so I want to get the setup and process right in my head from the start.
    So my question: how can I set this document up to minimise problems for the printer?  I don't mind if that involves another process before exporting, I just don't know what that might be.
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    The way you have it setup is the correct way for Perfect Binding.
    The image that appears on the right hand page in the picture posted, that area actually goes into the spine area - look at any book that has a spine and see how deep the pages go into the spine.
    You will also notice that the image on the right hand page does not go past the crop mark - so in reality it's actually cropped off the page altogether, so there's no need to worry about it.
    What you have is perfect - for perfect binding (or saddle stitching)
    Don't worry about the script posted earlier - that is for a different type of binding.
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    When you make a PDF for printing make sure you offset your Crop Marks further than your bleed
    Bellow I've used points and pica (but you can use 5mm bleed and offset by 6mm)
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    are needed to trim the page to size when printed. As printers can't
    print right to edge of a sheet, and that it's near impossible to trim a
    sheet of paper right to the edge of a colour - the colour needs to
    extend past the crop line, this is called
    bleed.
    When you bleed the document, i.e., extend any item that is tucked right
    against the foredge (the edges opposite the spine), then you need to
    extend this object off the page into a "bleed" area.
    This allows for human error when trimming the paper, as each sheet is
    not trimmed individually (that would take forever!) they are stacked on
    top of each other and trimmed in stacks. It would be impossible to stack
    all the sheets exactly even, and there is movement on the press, so
    compensating for the movement and the fact they can never be stacked
    exactly even - for this reason you need objects to extend past the edge
    of the page.
    The crop marks
    tell the guillotine operator where to trim the sheet. Once they have
    the measurements in their guillotine machine it's a simple matter of
    rinse and repeat with as many stacks of paper there are.
    And printers can sometimes fold and trim a print job folding machine,
    and since it's a machine and you have to account for mechanical errors
    and human error, you need bleed too.
    Bleed is important - If you don't add bleed then the object stops at the
    foredge of the paper. And if the blade trims/crops close to the object
    but misses by a sliver - then you have a sliver of white on the printed
    piece, which is highly undesirable.
    So you need crop marks
    so the printers know where exactly to cut the paper, and to cut into
    the bleed so that you don't have slivers of white.
    And yes you need crop marks even if you don't have bleed, if you
    don't have any bleed it's likely that the edges of the paper are just
    white, so there are no markings where to cut to give the correct size
    that you want. So crop marks need to be included no matter what.
    And the placement of crop marks is important. As I said earlier, crop marks are
    for letting the guillotine operator know where to trim the page so that
    it cuts into the bleed area. The bleed area to allow for mechanical,
    physical and human error. And seen as the bleed can sometimes be
    included in a final printed piece it is not desirable to have anything
    other than bleed objects in the bleed area.
    For this reason you offset your crop marks to be outside the bleed area. As I'm in
    Europe I work mainly in millimeters, so I would set my Bleed Area to be 5
    mm and I would set my crop marks to Offset by 6mm.
    This ensures that the crop marks do not encroach the bleed area. If your crop  marks do
    encroach the bleed area you run the risk of the crop
    marks appearing on a final printed
    piece.
    So in Summary
    Make sure you have bleed where necessary on your document.
    Add the desired amount of bleed - in my case 5mm.
    Offset the crop marks
    so they don't encroach the bleed area - in my case 6mm.

  • When the inside edge bleed from facing pages is needed?

    Hi I've been working on a magazine which is 130 pages and some brochure which is around 16 pages. May I know when I should give the value to the inside bleed and when should set it as 0?  Thanks in advance!

    Check with the printer, but it seems pretty unlikely you'll need an inside bleed for the brochures. You may well need one, though, on the magzine if it is going to be perfect bound. I think you probably are going to want to change that page count, too, to a multiple of 4.

  • Question regarding bleeding and facing pages.

    Hello,
    i'm in trouble with my first InDesign document which is a 96 pages Magazine. It will be printed on A3 sheets stapled in the middle. My printing guy said that it's ok as A4 pages with 3mm bleed.
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    You should ask the printers to use PUR (polyurethane reactive) Bind when making a perfect bound book - that's a much stronger glue than EVA. It won't even break apart or fall apart going from freezing cold (out in the car over night) to being warmed up, which happens with EVA binding. But the PUR bind seems to be a lot more popular and stronger.
    Failing that, getting the book threadsewn also helps to keep pages together. If you have a large print run and need these to last, then I suggest perfect binding them with a threadsewn finish.
    I've definitely seen and done 96pp saddle stitched (well personally I have imposed, printed and delivered these). You might have to sacrafice a drop in weight on the body text. It can get ugly, but it's definitely doable.
    My suggestion here would be to ask the printers for a similiar 96pp saddle stitch sample that they've done before, to make sure you're happy with it.
    In fact, you can ask them to send you out a dummy (a blank version of the book trimmed and folded) to make sure you're happy with it.
    It really is disppointing to get a printed job back from the printers and you discover you are not happy with the binding method.

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