Laptop Wireless Reception Very Poor

I've been using my PowerBook G4 for years on the kitchen table with excellent wireless reception until a few days ago when overnight it went completely. A hardware test proves the airport extreme card inside to be intact. Eventually I got a full signal back but only in the same room as the router (not even in the next room). My daughters intel MacBook continues to work absolutely fine so I don't think its to do with interference and I've tried changing channels on the router. Anybody got any ideas?

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
Are you using an Apple Airport base station?
Does the problem occur when the microwave and any wireless phones are not in use? Are you in a single family home detached, rowhouse, or apartment complex?
If the latter two, maybe one of your neighbors has enabled something in that frequency that causes interference.

Similar Messages

Wireless reception very poor on HomeHub 3

My wireless reception with my previous HH 2.0B had become very poor. The signal was starting to drop to 1 bar when the laptop was only 10 mtrs away from the hub. There are no thick walls or major obstacles in the way.
I discussed at length the problem with BT technical help and after eventually speaking with a supervisor / manager it was agreed that if I started a new 12 month contract they would send me a HH 3. They would also slightly reduce my monthly charge.
The HH 3 duly arrived but there is absolutely no difference in the wireless reception. There is certainly no improvement on the HH 2.
Has anyone else had this wireless problem and any possible solutions? It is very frustrating and bearing in mind all the adverts that the HH 3 is supposed to be the best it's very dissapointing.

I see any wireless router not much more than a gimmick, very easily the reverse would happen in my home.
There is so much that interferes with wireless in the home and the neighbour’s home and occasionally the people across the road. I can pretty much see the testing scenario for wireless routers and very likely far removed from what would be considered average home!
Take my set up when the home plugs are not burning out, the main computer sits around 3 metres away from the Hub type A, connected wireless has about ¾ reception and stutters with streaming. My daughters computer sits in what many would consider a dead spot has full reception streams IPlayer alike no problems. Move the hub in any direction a matter of Cms then it goes wobbly in the dead spot, this happens with 3 different manufactures of routers with varying extremes. |The type B Hub simply can’t be convinced to put its wireless in the dead
spot. Not very scientific but a average user home, I believe and I'm convinced wireless is as much use as a clairvoyant.
Mortgage Advisor 2000-2008
Green Energy Advisor 2008-2010
Charity Health Care Provider Advisor 2010-
I'm alright Jack....

L505-S5990 Very poor sound.

L505-S5990 sound volume very low. My wife and I have the same laptops both have very poor sound. Is there any fix driver etc.

golfnut10 wrote:
L505-S5990 sound volume very low. My wife and I have the same laptops both have very poor sound. Is there any fix driver etc.
The L505-S5990 laptop (and other models in the L505 series line which use the Realtek HD audio drivers) have not been configured properly when they were initially shipped. This is a two step process.
First, either update to the latest Toshiba audio drivers via the Toshiba Support web site, or by downloading the latest Realtek HD Audio drivers from the Realtek website.
Second, once the audio drivers have been updated, enable "Loudness Equalization" on either the Start --> Hardware and Sound --> Realtek HD Audio Manager --> Sound Effects tab, then click OK to save the setting change. Or on the Start --> Hardware and Sound --> Sound --> Speaker Properties (select Speakers then the Properties button) --> Enhancements tab, scroll down the list of sound effects to enable "Loudness Equalization" then select the OK button to save the setting changes.
Once the drivers have been updated and the "Loudness Equalization" has been enabled the system sound audio level is much louder, however you may find the DVD and Audio CD audio levels are still low. No real fix for that issue yet from Toshiba other than to experiment with the various sound settings.

Very poor wireless reception on HP Envy 17t-j000

So I just recently got a HP Envy 17t-j000 quad edition (Windows 8), which seems to be having some wifi issues
I opted for the cheaper non-bluetooth adapter, the Realtek RTL8188EE, which at present seems to have almost zero documentation on the internet. The Realtek website doesn't even show any record of it!
Anyways, here's the problem: I'm getting very poor reception with it, to the point where one of my two wireless routers has only very intermittent and horrendously slow connectivity, and the other will work a room away but no further (and also sometimes drops too, but less frequently). Outside of this range, I can still see these networks, but cannot always connect. If I do manage to connect, it will show a strong signal (4-5 out of 5 bars) but will never actually load anything. In fact, though I'm not sure this is relevant or not, I have never seen any networks with less than 3 out of 5 bars for signal strength.
Meanwhile, a number of other devices work at a much larger range and without dropping the connection as this computer does. This includes a year old HP (I forget the model) and a five year old Acer. The speed on my faster router doesn't appear to be very different between the HP Envy and the other two.
I have:
* Done a number of restarts of the network modem and both wireless routers
* Verified that the driver on the wireless adapter is up to date and reinstalled it
* Checked to make sure there are no antivirus/firewall/other programs systems that could be interfering
So, does this sound like a just a crappy wireless adapter or could this be some sort of software issue or defective hardware? Also, if I were to just replace this with another wireless card, what sort of things do I need to be concerned with in order to make sure the replacement is compatible with the system?

OK Boys & Girls - - here's what I did - -
First - the Envy X2 is having similar problems - but my laptop is the 17t-j000 quad
so this IS the correct thread - -
I used the HP support assistant - - it installed an updated BIOS -
The WiFi still shuts down at 8 - 10 min watching Netflix (no mouse or user inputs - Max signal strength indicated)
{Yes - I have disabled allowing the machine to turn off power to the WiFi card in the driver section}
Loaded the Softpaq mentioned above (quoted below) - - 200MB - had to be SOMETHING in there ??
It loaded without a problem - - strange thing is - the Intel Driver date stayed the same: 9/17/2012
Tried the WiFi - - still shuts down at 8 - 10 min
Went back to HP Support Assistant - -
NOW it says - - I need a new WiFi package ?!?
So - I download and installed THAT - -
Back to Netflix - - and so far - has been NO SHUTDOWN ?!?
2 episodes watched - still connected - fingers crossed
Your mileage may vary - -
Hi,
Download the Softpaq sp63183 from the below FTP link which should resolve these issues.
This Softpaq is for Windows 8 notebooks with an Intel Wireless card and should not be installed if they have another manufacturer like Broadcom , Realtek , or Qualcomm .
http://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp63001-63500/sp63183.exe
Customer complaining about connection “ dropping ” intermittently.
Fixes an issue which causes the 802.11n wireless connection to be disabled after a wireless adapter driver is installed.
Customer is having general wireless connection issues with their Windows 8 notebook.
"I work for HP."

I got reception problem in my 4g both gsm and wifi ? in form of very poor signal why*

i got reception problem in my 4g both gsm and wifi ? in form of very poor signal why*?? it was working fine suddenly the signal became bad and when i make phone call the other person on the seceond side doent hear me but when i use face time it is working , and the wifi signal is the same there is no or poor signal , signal improve only when i get closer to the modem that provides wifi at home or any wifi hot spot
is it antenna problem ? or what???

That thread helped for a time. But now it seems as though my computer is back to slow again. But, some of the jargon is over my head as well. Not sure I knew quoite everything they were talking about. But thanks a lot for that, it helped I probably just need to reread it and follow the instructions again. Thanks so much.

Droid maxx drops my calls and/or very poor reception

my droid maxx drops all my calls and/or very poor reception. I am in an area that is supposed to have good coverage. I have tried trouble shooting assistant. did not help. Does anyone else have this problem?

Hi sandrabaugh, I have a Droid Maxx. Are you somewhere that would cause physical interference? Perhaps in a building or location. That has a lot of concrete walls, metal, glass, or near any electronic equipment or computer router type of things? Is it isolated to one particular place, or where ever you use the Droid Maxx?

VERY Poor Wireless Signals

Hello everyone! I have a Linksys WRT54G v8 Wireless-G Broadband Router. I receive VERY poor wireless signals from it. There are no frequency interferences, physical obstructions, or anything like that. I have tried channels 1, 6, and 11 (non-overlapping channels), but did not seem to notice a difference. How can I adjust the Wireless -> Advanced Wireless Settings in order to improve the wireless signals? Thank you!
Message Edited by Shadowz_O_Death on 08-27-2008 06:23 PM

Shadowz_O_Death wrote:
Hello everyone! I have a Linksys WRT54G v8 Wireless-G Broadband Router. I receive VERY poor wireless signals from it. There are no frequency interferences, physical obstructions, or anything like that. I have tried channels 1, 6, and 11 (non-overlapping channels), but did not seem to notice a difference. How can I adjust the Wireless -> Advanced Wireless Settings in order to improve the wireless signals? Thank you!
Message Edited by Shadowz_O_Death on 08-27-2008 06:23 PM
Hi
Is the firmware up to date ?
If not , then upgrade the firmware .
U can even try channel - 9 !!
Advance wireless settings : RTS threshold - descrease by 42.
Fragementation - decrease by 42.
Beacon Interval - change to 75 or 50.
Observe the settings.
pe@c3
"What u Give , is wht u better start expecting to take back".. - http://Forsakenbliss.wordpress.com

Wireless to router poor signal

hi everyone i am new here, i have a wrt54g 2 v1 router on my vista desk top. i just set up a wusb54gc on another desktop running xp. setup went fine. wireless connectivity was very strong with both systems in same room. move the wireless desktop up one level into another room in my home. now the signal is very poor. cannot connect to internet. just to check the signal again moved the desktop back to the same room and everything was great. back up to the living room now nothing. what gives? what can i do to increase signal? thankyou.

whatifu wrote:
I've heard that desktops don't receive wireless signals as well as laptops. Is there a solution out there for this predicament I am in?
Thanks,
Roland
Hi,
Is it an internal or external wireless card (I don't know your machine: model ...). Probably you need a better antenna.
Just my 2 cents
Regards,
BH
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Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Wireless Reception Woes - Fixed

I bought my wife a Macbook Pro this March. The first thing we noticed when we fired it up was the poor wireless reception compared to my PowerBook G4. Even kept side-by-side, the Macbook Pro had poor reception and high latency (when it did stay connected).
I knew it didnt have anything to do with my Wireless router (Netgear WGT624), because my other 2 Windows laptops and PowerBook connect just fine. I invested in a QuickerTek Connect @ $200 and it worked as advertised. Personally, I thought it looked ugly and returned it.
I took the MacBook Pro into the nearest Apple store and explained the problem to the Genius there. Given the volume of discussion about this topic on this forum, I would've thought he'd have a knowing smile on his face. However, he said he'd never heard of this issue. He showed me how he was seeing "all the bars" on the Airport icon when connecting from my wife's MacBook Pro at the Apple store.
Nevertheless, I insisted it didnt work at home and he sent it in for repairs. When it came back, lo and behold, wireless networking works just fine - it is on par with my PowerBook G4 now.
What did the repair center do? They replaced the "ANTENNA ASSY". I take it that means they replaced the antenna assembly (the dark gray bar on the hinge between the screen and keyboard).
My advise - if you are having wireless reception issues and your MacBook Pro is still under warranty, take it into an Apple Store for repairs.
Macbook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.5)

I went ahead and invested in a QuickerTek Transciever for MacBook Pro (http://www.quickertek.com/MBProXCVR.php - $200). The wireless reception improved a lot.
While I was reading another post on these discussion board, I came across a suggestion to only enable Wireless G on my router. All this while, my router (Netgear WGT624) was set to use Auto 108Mbps on Channel 6. I set it to "Wireless G only" and changed the channel to 8.
Now I have impeccable wireless reception. I'm going to return the Quickertek transciever and save myself $200
Macbook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.5)

WRT610N...very poor signal

I recently purchased a WRT610N to replace my WRT160N because my new 2.4ghz baby monitor took down the wireless internet on the WRT160N. On Linksys' recommendation I also bought a 5ghz wireless adapter for my new Dell laptop, a WEC600N (previously I was using the internal 2.4ghz wireless on it which has now been disabled). I am finding that the WRT610N is giving me very, very poor signal when I'm only two rooms away from it. I have unplugged all of my cordless phones and that does not improve the signal so I do not think they are conflicting. Nothing else is wireless in my house (except the baby monitor which operates on 2.4ghz) so nothing should be conflicting. I have talked with Linksys support twice online and they had me change some settings in the advanced wireless tab but that did not help. Anyone have any ideas? This is very annoying and I hope to get it fixed soon. I can get two bars of signal (and that's about the best I can get) if I'm one floor down but if I'm on the same floor as the router and just two bedrooms away I get such a poor signal I can't even connect. Thanks!

Access setup page of router ......
Click wireless >> Click on Advanced Wireless
settings>>Change the Beacon Interval to 75 >>Change the Fragmentation
Threshold to 2304 Change the RTS Threshold to 2304 >>Click on "Save Settings"

10.4.3 Kills Wireless Reception

Since upgrading my G4 17" PowerBook to 10.4.3, my wireless reception has been terrible. After the upgrade I had to be on the same floor within 15 feet of my Airport Extreme and my Linksys router. (The latter was a freebee from my ISP.)
When I spoke to the AppleCare representative he queried the Apple forums and said that some customers have had this problem and solved it by downgrading their Airport firmware to 5.5.1 (from the current 5.6). I did this and got modest improvement (and obviously no improvement to my Linksys), but my reception is still much poorer than before the upgrade to 10.4.3.
Does anyone have a better suggestion?
Thank you.

Rick, thanks for your added suggestions. I was not lost, just took a computer break over the holidays.
I've tried everything you have mentioned and have seen no improvement. Note that I have an Airport Extreme and a Linksys Wireless router. (I have used both since the AEBS works best if I am in range, but the range has always been significantly worse than the Linksys.) Hardware architecture and environment have not changed. (No fishtanks in my house - just a chinchilla and a humain society mut!) The problems started when I upgraded my PB to 10.4.3. (Also, I have a laptop PC from work that continues to work fine.)
Since my previous post I have also:
1. Upgraded my Airport Extreme firmware to v5.7. Of course this would have no effect on the Linksys.
2. Per the advice of a AppleCare representative, I installed AirPort Update 2005-001 (http://www.apple.com/support/downloads/airportupdate2005001.html) on my PB. Since I normally keep everything up-to-date using 'Software Update', 2005-0001 should have already been installed. However, the AppleCare representative suggested that I manually apply this update since the Apple developers have seen cases where the manual installation corrects problems. Wild, huh?
Anyway, still no improvement. I'm hopeful that 10.4.5 cleans up this mess. A quick search of the forums indicates that others are fighting similar issues.

Iphone 5s not picking up home Wi-Fi and/or very poor signals even in downtown area

Switched to Verizon and bought IPhone 5s less than 3 weeks ago. It was fine the first week then suddenly it won't recognized my home wi-fi and got very poor wireless signal. I have my old IPhone 4s and it works fine like a charm for wi-fi. It keeps reloading and not pop up any wi-fi signals. I went to the mall and normally it should pop up multiple wi-fis but it didn't. However my ipad did. I keep trying to reboot it or even reset it to factory settings and still doesn't work. Then yesterday my calls keep dropping in the middle of business conversation. This is unacceptable and no one seems to be helpful at Verizon. I even took screen pictures throughout the day yesterday to show when suddenly my home wi-fi popped up and a minute later it disappear. This also a domino effect for my photo stream, icloud back up, and most importantly my data plan. Now I can't even use my paid home wi-fi and use up all my data plan with Verizon and none of them care. I almost feel like switching to other providers. I also see that this is somewhat common to IPhone 5s with their troubled software or signal chip but not getting help from Verizon is the worst.

I downloaded the Speedtest app on my iPhone and iPad and would randomly test one right after the other. I accumulated about 5 tests a day on each device over the course of 3 days. I set up an appointment at the Genius bar. I told the Genius that I set up my phone as new and then showed him my comparisons of the Speedtest on both devices. He handed me a new (non-refurbished because it hasn't been out for long) phone, no questions. Apparently it was a hardware issue and not an iOS 8 bug.

NB205 - very poor product and service, do not buy Toshiba!! Completely dead in 6 months

I am posting this to warn as many people as possible to avoid buying Toshiba in the future. Not only was the product faulty, which I can understand sometimes happens w mass production. But the service was completely unacceptable, which was the deciding factor for me.
1. My new Netbook NB-205/BL started intermittently shutting down for no reason (complete black screen, not even to blue screen). By the time I returned home from my trip it had stopped working altogether. The power light will come on, and the fan/hard disk will try to spin for a split second and then go silent and stop completely.
2. Upon calling tech support who walked me through a bunch of diagnostic attempts (removing and re-inserting battery, etc.), they concluded it was dead and I needed to send it in.
3. The only thing I really care about is my data as I had stored a bunch of invaluable photos and downloaded about $200 worth of Amazon MP3s since receiving the Toshiba NB205.
4. Tech support assured me they would back up the hard drive for me and ship either a fixed or new computer with all my data still intact. They asked me to register it w their warranty department and call them back so they could send me a shipping box to send it back in. I did all that and it's been >3 weeks and no box.
5. So today I called Tech Support again and the guy goes "Oh yes, you have shipped your computer in for a hard drive failure?". At which point I had to explain how A) it's not a hard drive failure B) I haven't shipped anything anywhere because I never got the box I was promised.
6. Then I proceed to ask him again if my data would be safe, to which he informs me it's Toshiba policy/practice not to back up data for customers. I found this to be unacceptable and then I didn't know who to trust so I asked for a supervisor.
7. This supervisor wasn't able to help me either as he further informed me that they will not back anything up for me AND that I had to pay for shipping AND pay an authorized Toshiba Repair Center to back my hard drive up.
8. I suggested what everyone who I've talked to has said: Toshiba could send me a new computer since they've diagnosed the old one as being dead. I could swap out the hard drives, or they could send me one without a hard drive. And I could send them back the dead NB205.
9. NO was the answer. Toshiba wouldn't do anything for me, because software issues are NOT under warranty. And backing up my hard drive is considered to be a software issue. I repeatedly told him that it's their defective hardware that is causing the need for data backup. But this went ignored and I was told they don't cover anything in this case.
I either had to lose my data or pay probably $100 for a Toshiba dealer to back up my data for me. Oh yeah, and there isn't one of those within 20 miles of me and I live in Silicon Valley!! Oh yes, and they want me to pay to ship them the dead computer.
10. I finally asked him how he would feel if he was the customer, and if he felt this was any way to treat Toshiba customers. He replied by saying they have a process, and this is the process!
Well the next time I and any of you are in our "process" of deciding which brand of technology to buy, I'm certainly not going to consider Toshiba anymore. This is the second chance I'm giving Toshiba after having a very poor laptop AND service experience in 2000. Well, it took me 9 years to give them another shot, and I'm never going to trust them again. I told myself "well, it's a high quality Japanese brand, one that commands a premium in price that people are willing to pay so it should be an excellent product. AND if things do go pooryly, Toshiba will stand behind their name."
I was SO wrong!!! Let this be a message to all people out there, as I did read these forums before buying my product, but the NB205 was so new it didn't have many posts.
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me! I'm done with you Toshiba, it's really too bad that you will not honor your brand with fair treatment of your customers.
Ming Wu

It isn't that difficult to back up the data from the hard drive. You can easily do it yourself for about $20. http://www.datarecoverytutorial.com/recover-data-from-failed-laptop-notebook/
As for Toshiba backing up your data, ALL of the manufacturer's have that same policy. NONE of them will backup the data for you nor will they guarantee that your system will be returned with the existing data intact. This is spelled out in the Warranty documents and is fairly common knowledge amongst most computer users.
If the data was that important you should have been backing it up to USB flash drives, a usb external hard drive, or some other backup device on a daily basis just for this very reason. The fact that you failed to do so doesn't make it Toshiba's problem.
If you don't post your COMPLETE model number it's very difficult to assist you. Please try to post in complete sentences with punctuation, capitals, and correct spelling. Toshiba does NOT provide any direct support in these forums. All support is User to User in their spare time.

Macbook pro performing very poor due to Yosemite

Hi,
I bought macbook pro 2012 model just 10 days back. Unfortunately i got yosemite preinstalled. My macbook pro is performing very very poor now .. Please help me in this regard
Problem description:
Very slow performance
EtreCheck version: 2.1.5 (108)
Report generated 12 January 2015 8:06:38 pm IST
Click the [Support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Details] links for more information about that line.
Click the [Adware] links for help removing adware.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro9,2
1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
4 GB RAM Upgradeable
BANK 0/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
BANK 1/DIMM0
2 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
OS X 10.10.1 (14B25) - Uptime: 3 days 1:6:20
Disk Information: ℹ️
APPLE HDD HTS545050A7E362 disk0 : (500.11 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
Macintosh HD (disk1) / : 498.89 GB (428.37 GB free)
Core Storage: disk0s2 499.25 GB Online
HL-DT-ST DVDRW GS41N
USB Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Configuration files: ℹ️
/etc/hosts - Count: 6
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
/Library/Extensions
[loaded] com.driver.LogJoystick (2.0 - SDK 10.9) [Support]
[loaded] com.logitech.driver.LogiGamingMouseFilter (1 - SDK 10.9) [Support]
Startup Items: ℹ️
MySQLCOM: Path: /Library/StartupItems/MySQLCOM
Startup items are obsolete in OS X Yosemite
Problem System Launch Agents: ℹ️
[killed] com.apple.bird.plist
[killed] com.apple.CallHistoryPluginHelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.CallHistorySyncHelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.cloudd.plist
[killed] com.apple.coreservices.appleid.authentication.plist
[killed] com.apple.EscrowSecurityAlert.plist
[killed] com.apple.icloud.fmfd.plist
[killed] com.apple.nsurlsessiond.plist
[killed] com.apple.pluginkit.pkd.plist
[killed] com.apple.rcd.plist
[killed] com.apple.recentsd.plist
[killed] com.apple.sbd.plist
[killed] com.apple.scopedbookmarkagent.xpc.plist
[killed] com.apple.security.cloudkeychainproxy.plist
[killed] com.apple.spindump_agent.plist
15 processes killed due to memory pressure
Problem System Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[killed] com.apple.AssetCacheLocatorService.plist
[killed] com.apple.awdd.plist
[killed] com.apple.corestorage.corestoragehelperd.plist
[killed] com.apple.ctkd.plist
[killed] com.apple.diagnosticd.plist
[killed] com.apple.emond.aslmanager.plist
[killed] com.apple.icloud.findmydeviced.plist
[killed] com.apple.ifdreader.plist
[killed] com.apple.nehelper.plist
[killed] com.apple.nsurlsessiond.plist
[killed] com.apple.periodic-daily.plist
[killed] com.apple.periodic-weekly.plist
[killed] com.apple.softwareupdate_download_service.plist
[killed] com.apple.spindump.plist
[killed] com.apple.systemstats.analysis.plist
[killed] com.apple.wdhelper.plist
16 processes killed due to memory pressure
Launch Agents: ℹ️
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer_desktop.plist [Support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.teamviewer.Helper.plist [Support]
[not loaded] com.teamviewer.teamviewer_service.plist [Support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist [Support]
[loaded] com.valvesoftware.steamclean.plist [Support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
Android File Transfer Agent Application (/Users/[redacted]/Library/Application Support/Google/Android File Transfer/Android File Transfer Agent.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 1.0.0.0 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
Safari Extensions: ℹ️
Searchme [Cached] Adware! [Remove]
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
Flash Player [Support]
MySQL [Support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
      5% WindowServer
      0% fontd
      0% smcFanControl
      0% AppleSpell
      0% Google Chrome
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
408 MB com.apple.SpeechRecognitionCore.speechrecognitiond
133 MB Google Chrome
120 MB Skype
86 MB loginwindow
77 MB Pages
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
51 MB Free RAM
1.30 GB Active RAM
1.22 GB Inactive RAM
773 MB Wired RAM
45.09 GB Page-ins
646 MB Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
Jan 12, 2015, 01:11:20 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-12-131120_[redac ted].crash
Jan 12, 2015, 01:06:00 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-12-130600_[redac ted].crash
Jan 11, 2015, 11:11:16 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-11-231116_[redac ted].crash
Jan 11, 2015, 11:09:03 PM /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/httpd_2015-01-11-230903_[redac ted].crash

Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

RV180W Wireless Downloads very Slow

I have a new RV180W just setup for business and everyhing was going perfect.
No poblems of installing.
All the computers who are connected by lan have no problem. Speed they have is around 17Mb download.
All the laptops who are connected by Wifi are slow. The download speed they have is 1.9Mb download.
No matter what i do or try i can't get the Wifi speed up.
Before this we had an other router and we had speeds by Wifi up to 15Mb.
No we bought a Cisco the best brand there is we think and we have big problems.
Our company must download a lot of big files so speed is very important.
Is it possible that the router can block the speed?
Where must i search is there any one who can help us?
If i do a speedtest from a laptop i get very stange number.
Like 55Mb download and 13Mb Upload, impossible our line is not 55Mb
Then next time i get 9Mb download and 10 Mb upload.
We put already new firmware on it but that doesn't help.

Dear Customer,
Thank you for reaching the Small Business Support Community.
I suggest you to try a few things;
Wireless > Basic Settings:
- Wireless Network Mode; B/G/N Mixed or G/N Mixed
- If using WPA Enterprise or WPA2 Enterprise Mixed for security, change it to a local authentication instead of RADIUS server authentication.
- Wireless Channel to auto
Wireless > Advanced Settings
Protection Mode. Select none (the default) to turn off CTS
Request to Send (RTS) Threshold and Fragmentation Threshold, set to default value 2346
Below is a link to a document for wireless networking best practices;
https://supportforums.cisco.com/docs/DOC-29821
If the problem persists I then suggest you to contact the Small Business Support Center for further assistance;
https://www.cisco.com/en/US/support/tsd_cisco_small_business_support_center_contacts.html
Please do not hesitate to reach me back if there is any further assistance I may help you with.
Kind regards,
Jeffrey Rodriguez S. .:|:.:|:.
Cisco Customer Support Engineer
*Please rate the Post so other will know when an answer has been found.

Laptop Wireless Reception Very Poor

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