Logic Board and Hard drive

I have a 20" 1.25GHZ G4 iMac that had a hard drive failure. It could be seen by Disk Warrior, Drive Genius but wouldn't respond to repairs. After taking it out I was able to confirm that it's bad.
I installed a new drive but that can't be seen by install discs(original and 10.5) or DW and DG. I replaced the cable to the logic board and confirmed continuity on the power wire to the drive. (And the DVD drive runs so it has power). I tried jumper settings of "cable Select" and "master". I confirmed off line that the new drive is good. New board battery. Reset PMU.
Does it make any sense that the problem is the logic board? Everything else seems okay - display, DVD drive, etc. What confuses me about the logic board is that it worked enough to see the bad drive. Anything else to check/change?

Depending on the brand of replacement hard disk drive,
and the requirements with whichever one you have to
work in the iMac G4 configuration, the jumper pin setting
may be the issue. There could also be an issue with an
ATA controller on the logicboard; or other hardware...
Given the possibility of issues in this, some users have
opted to stay away from some brands of drives which
had presented a problem if used as replacement drives
in these computers. Some leave a lasting impression.
{One example, is WD drives. They may be fine, but I
don't prefer to use them in Macs ... from SCSI days!}
Good luck & happy computing!

Similar Messages

CS3 in MAC OSX7 gives licensing stopped working following replacement of logic board and hard drive.

Repair of MacBookPro with OSX7 replaced logic board and hard drive. CS3 notified that licensing has stopped working. It worked before the repair -- and I believe that I had a similar problem in the past. The Live Chat said that they were not compatible -- which doesn't make sense since it worked fine before the repair. How can I get it going again. Chat room said I had to buy new product which seems crazy.

Repair of MacBookPro with OSX7 replaced logic board and hard drive. CS3 notified that licensing has stopped working. It worked before the repair -- and I believe that I had a similar problem in the past. The Live Chat said that they were not compatible -- which doesn't make sense since it worked fine before the repair. How can I get it going again. Chat room said I had to buy new product which seems crazy.

Logic Board or Hard Drive Issue?

Recently my PowerBook G4 failed to boot from the internal hard drive. Gray Apple screen, spinning wheel and after a couple of minutes restart is all I get. What happened initially was the computer froze not allowing Safari to quit for restart. I had to manually shut down after all other means did not work (Force Quit, etc.). I have been able to get it to boot from an external Firewire drive running 10.4, but it will not recognize a USB drive, though the USB ports work for a printer and scanner. I was also able to get it to boot from a 10.5 Install DVD that came with my wife's MacBook. Since I bought this PowerBook used, it had no disks included, but did have 10.5 installed. The other thing is the lower RAM slot has not worked from the day I got it. When I run Disk Utility the drive checks out, though there were some Permission repairs. SMART checks verified. I seem to be able to access the internal disk when booted from the external. Reset PMU & PRAM, no difference. Should I try replacing the hard drive or do I have another issue here?

First up, PowerPC-based Macs can't boot up from a USB external drive (per se... there is a workaround and "hack"). Only Intel-based Macs can do that.
Second, since you say it works and boots up when connected to a FireWire external drive, I believe it is a hard drive issue. S.M.A.R.T. status is not ("not") always a reliable indicator from what I've heard. It may say it's verified, but really it's failing. By the same token, it may say failed, but really it's fine.
That is not always the case however. 95% of the time, S.M.A.R.T. status is highly accurate.
If you are so inclined, you can open up your PowerBook, take out the hard drive, and place a new one in there and see what happens. If it works, you're in business. And you only spent a $100 or less on a new drive (which you might end up needing anyway if your current drive is indeed broken).
(If your drive isn't broken, then you have a backup drive ).
If the new drive installed doesn't work, then it is a logic board issue or something else. But since you say it works fine and boots up from a Leopard install DVD, I think it may just be the hard drive. And a new logic board usually starts at $300 so think about that as well. (You could get a new used one for a bit more and sell that one for parts).

Logic board failure, hard drive failure, soon to be heart failure

Up until a few weeks ago, I owned an iBook that ran like a champ. Suddenly, I got funky lines on the screen, and the cursor froze. I had no idea what it was, so I discovered after two seconds of research online that my logic board had failed. I actually didn't know that they had been recalled, so it never got fixed. With a dead computer, my wife and I decided that it'd be more economical to just buy a new MacBook than it would be to have Apple repair the logic board.
In the meantime, I had to boot up the iBook twice to get some info out of it, and I read online that you could put some pressure on the left wrist rest to possibly make the logic board "work" temporarily. The second time I did this, I heard a crunch, but was still able to use the iBook. I am now under the impression that what I heard was the beginning of the end for that drive.
We received our new MacBook not quite two weeks ago. I finally got around to buying a firewire cable yesterday so that I could attempt to transfer my files. I attempted to boot up in target mode, and I got nothin'. I tried to boot up the iBook, and I got the flashing question mark/folder icon.
I stopped in at the local Genius Bar, and the tech told me to just remove the hard drive out of the iBook and put it in a case. Removing the hard drive was straightforward thanks to the many online how-to manuals I found, and I then installed it into an enclosure.
When I plug in the now external hard drive to the USB port, the enclosure lights up, but it doesn't recognize the external drive. The hard drive does not sound like it is spinning, either.
Short of data recovery, I don't know what to do now. I have 4 gigs of pictures that I absolutely can not replace, and it will literally break me if I lose them.
I could really use some guidance and direction on this issue. Three weeks ago, I had no problem whatsoever, and now I have an iBook in pieces on my dining room table and a hard drive that no longer works. If I had just had the logic board fixed, this wouldn't be an issue now.
Thanks in advance, I truly appreciate the help.

Hey Rick and welcome to Apple Discussions,
I got funky lines on the screen, and the cursor froze.
Right the Graphics Processor Unit ball grid array failed and the computer froze since the GUI runs thu there. Shim repair or reball (permanent).
I read online that you could put some pressure on the left wrist rest to possibly make the logic board "work" temporarily. The second time I did this, I heard a crunch, but was still able to use the iBook. I am now under the impression that what I heard was the beginning of the end for that drive.Short of data recovery, I don't know what to do now. I have 4 gigs of pictures that I absolutely can not replace, and it will literally break me if I lose them.
Right Rhonda posted a picture of the exact placement of the GPU here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1368645&tstart=0
Down on the bottom (if you can't see it try Safari, I can't see it in FireFox).
I think that putting pressure from the top is a problem since the hard drive is exactly above that chip. So maybe the bottom should come off before anyone tries this.
Of course that doesn't help you now. So the drive was spinning up but now it's not. Pull that drive out and take a very good look at it.
Look across the top - dented? mmm that's bad might not be recoverable.
OK go on.
Carefully examine the multi pin socket - look OK? No? go to removing the board.
move on
Carefully examine the circuit board underneath the drive. Good?
Bad - cracked? chipped?
It might be possible to repair it but you'll have to find the exact model of this drive. It would have to be working and you would swap the circuit boards. Post the exact model and make of the drive and I'll see if I have any examples here.
I just pulled the board off a Toshiba and it just plugs right in.
I got this off the web where guys have fixed their drives this way. They were IDE drives but I think this would work.
If you can get it to spin up use Data Rescue II.
Post back. Really good pictures would help.
Richard

I put back the logic board and optical drive and it wont start up i have a metal piece left over smaller tha an inch

no power up could this metal band be for the power button or does it assumes the screeen is closed

Your question is like me saying, I put my car engine together and I have a part left over. Now the car won't start. Do you think the left over part has something to do with it not starting?
Of course it does and as well you may also have assembled the parts incorrectly, or maybe you broke something when putting it together, maybe static electricity zapped a component. Just as you don't know why my car won't start after I put it together, we don't know why your computer won't start.

Need help! White screen and hard drive

I have a MacBook Pro A1211 I got off Craigslist. It needed a new logic board and hard drive so I got both. My problem is I just found out the hard drive has windows on it and when I power on the MBP all I get is a white screen. My question is is there a way to get windows off that hard drive while its installed in the MBP? I've tried every command I could find online to push when I power on the MacBook but it does nothing. I bought a copy of snow leopard 10.6 factory sealed and put it in the super drive but it just spins for a while and then stops. The fans constantly run also but I'm new to MacBook so I don't know if that's suppose to happen. I got the disk management to come up one by holding down option and power on but it didn't give me the option of choosing the SuperDrive and I can't get it back up. It's almost like the keyboard isn't working. If there's any suggestions y'all can give me I'd appreciate it.

Startup - Gray, Blue or White screen at boot, w/spinner/progress bar
Startup - Gray Screen
Startup Issues - Resolve
Startup Issues - Resolve (2)

What's the Difference Between Logic Board Failure and Hard Drive Failure

Hi!
So I wanted to know the difference between a Logic Board Failure and Hard Drive Failure because a couple of days ago I tried starting my computer up and I was welcomed by the Apple chime and a grey screen. I have been researching and most people say its either the hard drive or the logic board. So I am curious to know what are the symptoms of both. Thanks a lot, in advance!

The hard drive is where the OS resides, if it dies there is no OS loading, so you can't boot. If you hook up your external drive with your clone of the internal drive, boot up and hold down the option key, select your clone drive as the startup drive in boot manager that then appears, and the computer boots normally, then the computer is OK, it is just the internal drive that has gone south. You don't have a clone to boot from? Now you know why you should.
You could try booting from the DVD that came with the computer, hold down the "D" key to run diagnostics and see what the results are. If you can't boot into the diagnostics then a trip to the Apple store is probably in order.
Francine
Francine
Schwieder

IMac G5 (2004) logic board and the repair extension program

Hi,
I know that there are tons of topics about logic board/power supply troubles witht the first generation G5s, and I'm sorry to start yet another new thread, but I still have some questions about this issue.
I have a first generation iMac G5. Long story short...when I first got it the computer would shut itself off sometimes after I had put it to sleep. When I would try to restart nothing would happen, but usually letting it sit unplugged a while would solve the problem (occasionally when I'd restart a different start up noise would sound and the white light would flash quickly). It happened so randomly, that I just lived with it, blaming the problem on my dorm network, or a power failure. A few days ago I tried to start the computer up and nothing happened (just a VERY faint sound like a clicking or ticking or intermitant humming...definatly electrical sounding). I unplugged it overnight, but the next day still nothing. I decided to go through the troubleshooting steps Apple lists online. The internal power button could not start it up and the second LED does not flash, which according to Apple means the logic board needs replacing. Luckily my serial # is covered by the Repair Extension Program, and I'm bringing my computer in tomorrow morning to be fixed (just in time for back to school).
I have become concerned, while browsing the discussion topics, that this fix may not be permenant. I've read a few posts that claim that they are on their third Logic Boards, and this kind of scares me. My parents bought me the computer (our family's first ever Mac) and did not purchase the AppleCare extended warranty (they had heard how reliable Macs were...hmmm.) I didn't even know that I could purchase AppleCare after-the-fact until it was several months after my 1yr warranty expired. I do appreciate the fact that Apple recognized what seems to be a common problem with this generation of iMacs, but I wonder why they did not contact the owners of these machines to let them know that the problem and repair extension even existed.
So I guess my real question is...Does anyone know if, after this repair Apple will replace the logic board if it dies again? Is there a limit to the number of qualified repairs you can get through this Repair Extension program? Also is there any other Extended warranty type thing I can purchase after my 1yr. warranty is up.
Sorry the post is so long...I'm just scared about the fate of my beloved Mac.
iMac G5 (2004) Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Oh man, am I actually relieved reading this thread. Just took my baby (iMac G5 first generation) in for repairs today, not knowing what was wrong with it. Luckily my serial numbers are in the range, so I'm crossing my fingers that they're going to cover this.
Brief synopsis of what happened, in case it differs from anyone else's
About a month ago, my iMac started to not wake up from sleep mode. Instead of waking up, it would just shut itself off. This continued for about 2 months, with me thinking nothing of it. Then, instead of shutting itself off, the computer would restart when I attempted to put it to sleep.
Then, last night, I was surfing the net and all of a sudden the power just failed. No noise, no "grey screen", we're talking like a millisecond later the screen was black. I treid unplugging the machine and then plugging it back in while simultaneously holding the power button to reset the PSU and still nothing. At that point it was about 1:30 in the morning, so I just went to bed not wanting to deal with it until the next day. By the time I woke up, there was a distinct smell of electrical components burning (in grade 8 shop class we used to hook up resistors to the voltage generator and crank the juice up until they fried when teach wasn't around, so I distinctly remembered the acrid stench :P)
I opened the back up and did the LED check, and #2 wouldn't even blink. So I took it in and they said they'd have to get back to me and that's where I stand now.
The thing that concerns me is that if some of the components fried that there may be possible damage to the motherboard etc. Luckily I'm not too worried about the hard drive because it did still boot up and all. People that have experience with this, what usually happens with files on your HD after a logic board replacement? Are they usually fine?
The other thing that concerns me is that apple has made no effort to contact me, and it will be 2 years after the purchasing date come November 1, 2006. I'm lucky that I caught this now before it was too late.

New logic board, and new display, but now completely dead.

Hi guys,
I've got an iBook G3, running 10.3.9.
In December 2006, the logic board failed, so I bought a MacBook, because I didn't have time to be offline waiting weeks for Apple to replace the iBook's logic board.
After much badgering, Apple reluctantly replaced the iBook's logic board under the extended warranty program.
While the iBook was with the Apple repair store, they replaced the display for new as well, even though I didn't ask them to, and even though I wasn't charged for it.
I presume that was because the store discovered that the display was duff enough to be replaced under another extended warranty program.
When I got the "repaired" unit home, with a brand new logic board, and a brand new display, I turned it on, and it seemed to be working fine, so I turned it off, and continued to use my MacBook.
A few weeks ago, the second logic board on my MacBook failed (another long horror story entirely), so I began using the iBook for the first time since it had been "repaired" some six months earlier.
Almost immediately, the iBook began exhibiting a major problem, specifically that I'd be typing away, and suddenly the display would go black.
I could just about see the icons and documents on the screen, but the unit was unusable.
So I pulled restarts, full shutdowns, disk utility, zapped the PRAM, etc, all to no avail.
It seemed to be an intermittent problem.
For example, sometimes, from a cold start, the unit would work for two or three hours until the display went black.
Other times, I'd pull a cold start, and it would go straight to the black display.
By chance, I discovered that if I gave the iBook a shake, the display would come back on.
But then it would go black after a second or two.
And then with another shake, it would come back on for a second or two.
And then it would go black after a second or two.
And then with another shake, it would come back on, sometimes for a couple of hours at a time.
So I figured that it must be a cable which, during the installation of the logic board, and/or the new display, wasn't seated correctly by the technician.
I phoned Apple, and told them about it.
They said that because I had reported the issue beyond 90 days since the logic board had been replaced, it was no longer Apple's problem.
I explained to Apple that I hadn't used the iBook for six months, because I had a MacBook.
After much badgering, Apple has agreed to replace the logic board if it's faulty.
However, Apple has refused to replace the NEW display, even if that's also faulty.
Apple is also insisting that I have to pay all the labor charges.
Meanwhile, I've noticed that the iBook is now incredibly hot.
I mean, the MacBook is infamous for running hot, but this "repaired" iBook makes my MacBook feel like a block of ice by comparison.
I don't remember the iBook running so extremely hot before the "repair."
Which has made me notice that during the last few weeks, I've never heard the iBook's fan come on.
I presume that an iBook has a fan ?
Please confirm.
Therefore, another loose cable ?
Today, the display went black again, as usual.
So I gave the iBook a shake.
But this time, nothing happened.
No display.
No fan.
No hard drive spinning.
Just silent and dead.
What do you reckon, guys ?
Duff logic board ?
And/or duff display ?
And/or duff fan ?
And/or duff cabling by the technician ?
As far as I'm concerned, I don't see why I should have to pay for yet another repair, to correct hardware and/or workmanship which was so bad that after only three weeks of ACTUAL use since the "repair", the unit is now completely dead.
All opinions and advice gratefully received.
With thanks and best wishes,
Michael
London, England

Hi S,
Many thanks for your helpful and swift response.
I agree with you regarding the likelihood that these problems would have surfaced immediately during normal usage, regardless of how much or little time had passed since the repair.
As advised, I will inform Apple Customer Relations UK about the new developments.
Indeed, when I resubmit the iBook, I'll include a print-out of this discussion.
I agree with you about the fan.
Prior to the failure of the first logic board, I ran that iBook for YEARS, without noticing any heat issue.
Indeed, if there had been such incredible heat, then I'd have searched these discussion boards, and reported it to Apple HQ.
Therefore, the astonishing heat is definitely a new development since the "repair."
Consequently, I take on board your comments about the lack of a working fan since the "repair", which I shall also mention to Apple HQ.
As for running the Apple Hardware Test, the unit is completely dead.
The power cable is green, but the unit is now completely silent and black.
I also note your suggestions regarding the cable which connects the display to the rest of the unit, which I shall also mention to Apple HQ.
No repair sheet was ever given to me by the Apple Repair Centre (ARC).
Indeed, no receipt was ever given to me when I delivered the unit to the ARC, nor was any paperwork ever given to me when I collected the unit from the ARC.
However, Apple HQ can see on their screen that the logic board and display were both replaced for new by the ARC.
What else was and wasn't done by the ARC is a mystery.
I'll phone the ARC and ask for copies of any and all paperwork, so that I can submit it all to Apple HQ, which I note is your recommended option, rather than returning the unit to the ARC.
However, the complicating factor is that with the exception of the logic board, it is my understanding that Apple is denying any liability on any part of the "repaired" unit, including the brand new display.
If I understand Apple HQ correctly, they're now saying that all other hardware and labor costs will be mine.
I'm sure I could buy a WORKING second-hand iBook G3 for the same price as a repair, if not cheaper.
Therefore, perhaps I should return the unit to the ARC, and give them the opportunity to correct their previous workmanship, at their OWN cost.
Because as far as I'm concerned, the ARC had two customers during the repair: Apple and the end-user, as evidenced by the fact that the ARC has invoiced its first customer Apple for workmanship which was clearly not up to Apple's own standards, and the ARC has then delivered the unit to its second customer, the end-user.
In addition, regardless of Apple's 90 day warranty on repaired hardware, UK law includes the Sale of Goods Act 1979, and other relevant legislation: http://www.dti.gov.uk/consumers/fact-sheets/page38311.html
Furthermore, if the ARC is completely unhelpful, I could jump all over them, by writing to Apple HQ, with cc's to the UK editions of MacWorld, MacFormat, and MacUser magazines.
As advised, if the unit goes to Apple HQ, I will suggest that the unit is looked at carefully during disassembly, to see if errors were made during the ARC "repair."
I'm always polite when on the phone to Apple, because I love the company so much.
Indeed, even though during the last twelve months, I've been having very bad luck with the iBook, as well as with a MacBook which has exhibited so many problems that Apple has now agreed to replace old for new, I still love my Mac.
And joy, sweet joy, I've just seen on the TNT courier's tracker website, that my replacement MacBook, built by Apple in Singapore, then flown to Arnhem in Germany, then flown to Northampton UK, then delivered to Heathrow UK, left the Heathrow depot 30 minutes ago, for delivery to the customer.
And the sun is shining.
Thank you again for all your kind and wise advice.
With best wishes,
Michael
London, England

6-month old Mac Pro has already had a new logic board and power supply

At a cost of $400 in shipping and a one-month wait, my 5-month old Mac Pro got a new power supply and logic board
Now I keep getting kernel panics, runaway kernel_task in Activity Monitor, and corrupted boot drives
External Firewire drives work some of the time, and occasionally my USB devices dont work either
This computer is a nightmare - how do I begin to figure out if this is OS (10.6.4) or hardware related?
The extended AHT test reports that all is OK - as does an extended memory test using Applejack
Should I do firmware updates and re-install the 10.6.4 combo pack, or am I just wasting more of my time?
I've got 4 macs and this is the only one that works badly - I think Apple's OS updates are getting as bad as Windows updates

My first question is why you spent $400 to get a 5 month old system fixed. That should have been covered under the warranty. So someone ripped you off, or you left out some key details.
And if you had both the logic board and PSU replaced, did you ever stop to think that maybe the problem lies with the power coming into your house? It's not really the big power spikes or blackouts you need to worry about, since those are pretty rare. What you need to worry about are the small fluctuations in voltage that happen several hundred times a day, if not an hour. Sometimes there's not quite enough power, other times there's a little too much, and all of this takes a steady toll on the PSU. It will do what it can to try and feed the rest of the computer a steady diet of electricity, but sometimes a jolt will get past it and start damaging other components. It could even cause data corruption on your HDD.
If the PSU and logic board already went, who knows what damage it may have caused to anything else. It may just be taking longer to show up.
It might also be that whomever ripped you off to the tune of $400 simply traded you one defective logic board for another. Or maybe they don't really know how to protect against ESD. I once saw a repair shop where the techs smoked in the same room they did the repairs. Sadly, for every one good tech out there, there's probably at least 3 complete idiots. Kind of like auto mechanics.
And I never have problems with Windows or Apple updates. Seems like on Windows the majority of people who have problems with updates are either running some program designed to change the way Windows looks or messes with low level system files, or they have a malware infestation they were unaware of/oblivious to. Most of the people who have problems with Apple updates seem to be the same way. They're running some truly bizarre programs that mess with the system in ways programs were not intended to mess with the system. There's generally a reason OS vendors provide an API for developers. You deviate from that at your own peril.

Memory modules and hard drive not recognized

I removed and reinserted the factory installed Satellite L505D-LS5007 laptop hard drive and memory modules just as practice for installing a hard drive upgrade and an 8GB memory upgrade. The problem is obviously with the memory and not with the hard drive.
After the first practice try, one memory module was recognized. Also for a few seconds after the first practice try, I ran the PC with the battery installed, but no memory installed. I did not look in the User's Guide first to see that I should have removed the battery before removing the memory.
Now the System Indicator Lights for the HDD Activity and Memory Card Reader do not light up. The PC turns on and the display is solid black with no messages.
Before buying new memory modules, what possible ways might there be to get the PC to recognize the factory installed memory modules and hard drive again?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

When troubleshooting, I always change one variable at a time. I would hate to miss a solution by being in a hurry. In this case, you may have damaged either the RAM or the RAM slot. I would stick with the Toshiba specifications for the RAM, making sure it is the correct size, speed and type recommended. I also recommend that when you replace the RAM that both modules be from the same manufacturer, size, and specification. Try one RAM module in one slot and then the other. And then try both RAM modules in both slots. After the testing you should be able to figure if this is a RAM problem or a RAM slot problem.
In the case of hard drives, the real test is whether or not the Bios sees the hard drive. If the Bios doesn't see the hard drive, it's not going to work. The Bios should see the hard drive whether or not the hard drive is partitioned, formatted or has data on it. My experience has been that many Toshiba laptops will work fine with larger capacity hard drives provided they are the same speed in RPMs, have the same interfacing connection and physically the same size.
Again, prior to doing any work on your computer, make sure that both the AC power has been disconnected and the battery has been removed. Be careful out there. A blown repair job by a non-Toshiba tech is NOT covered under warranty.

I need to upgrade my macbook ram and hard drive pls help

Hi all,
I need to upgrade my macbook's RAM and hard drive as after 3 yrs of use it is showing signs of aging.
I am novice in hardware stuff. I am planning on doing it entirely by myself and on tight budget will need to compare the prices across sellers and buy a suitable peice of kit. Please help
Questions:
1 - How to find out which RAm do I need to buy and what is the maximum I can go on my macbook?
2 - How to find which hard drive to buy and what is the maximum my macbook will support?
3 - Can I buy the SSD drive instead of SATA for this macbook?
Some of the specs are listed below:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:          MacBook
Model Identifier:          MacBook5,2
Processor Name:          Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:          2 GHz
Number Of Processors:          1
Total Number Of Cores:          2
L2 Cache:          3 MB
Memory:          2 GB
Bus Speed:          1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version:          MB52.0088.B05
SMC Version (system):          1.38f5
MANY THANKS FOR READING AND REPLYING TO MY POST
[email protected]

Hi Chefjeegar
Yes that screwdriver kit has the #00 phillips screwdriver that you need to access the RAM and hard drive. You'll also need the Torx driver to change the hard drive. http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Computer-Technician-Precision-Torx/dp/B0000934GO/r ef=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1348072554&sr=1-1
For a good explanation about RAM look at the page on OWC http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/MacBook/DDR2/
In the UK Amazon or eBay might be your best bet for cheap RAM but read the description and reviews carefully. For a little more expensive but with a better warranty is Crucial UK http://www.crucial.com/uk/
A good resource for working on your MacBook is ifixit.com http://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Core_2_Duo
Is your external hard drive formatted for Mac? To transfer your current hard drive I like the free application Carbon Copy Cloner. It makes a bootable copy of everything on your hard drive http://www.bombich.com/index.html Check that it's set up right by booting up from the external drive. Put the new drive in your MacBook, then format and partition the new drive. Then use Carbon Copy Cloner to transfer your OS back to the new drive.
Yes, you can put an SSD in the MacBook.

Deleting a song from iTunes library and hard drive on Itunes 11.0

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Hello CleveCo, Inc
And welcome to Apple Discussions!
At some point in time, you may have selected the option to prevent that dialog from appearing again when trying to delete tracks from your library. To reset all of iTunes warning dialogs, click the Edit drop down menu and choose Preferences from the list (on a Mac it is *iTunes -> Preferences* ). When the window pops up, head over to the Advanced tab and click the *Reset Warnings* button. Then quit iTunes and relaunch it. That do the trick for you?
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Mid 2009 applecare logic board and battery ADVICE

returning mac OS and mac hardware buyer here.
i have been questioning (read complaining) about the battery life (1 1/2 hours on safari) and the performance (spinning beachballs on startup, on wake and on starting safari among other things) since i bought this machine. i brought it in for the umpteenth time to the genius bar (they apparently only have 3 of these on record?!) because i had a break and i have a "service battery" alert.
i am being told i can replace the battery and the logic board based upon their diagnostics of the machine and i have FINALLY (Whoo-HOOO yippeee kayeeee'y!!) got a committment from a mac rep that i should be expecting 3 1/2 - 4 hours out of the battery and not 1 1/2 hours.
i don't really have an option here from everything i can tell but does anyone have any advice for me on this? warranty is up in February and from what i am being told i can bring it back if i bring it home and still only get poor battery life.
at the same time i am really unhappy (insert expletive) about having spent so much time troubleshooting this machine only to be told that the hardware seems fine or that the battery tests normal or whatever. this macbook pro 13 inch seems like it was a dog since the day i bought it.
my preference would REALLYT be to trade into mac on a new macbook pro 15" and i am wondering if i am instead i am going to have to just repair this machine (thank my lucky stars that i buy applecare) and empirically test the machine on my end to make sure that i am getting more than 2 hours per charge and that i don't have the spinning beachballs that i have had to have dealt with over the last 3 years...
i mean, i /have/ to fix this machine and monitor it over the next three months instead of them helping me cut bait with it by getting some financial incentive somehow to move into a new MBP is that right...?
TIA

thanks.
looks like it has now had a new battery and a new logic board and it is still failing hardware test for the battery.
they are now sending it out for additional testing to some other facility.
anyone had a similar experience?

Logic Board and Hard drive

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