Loss of Sync

Using a Sony Mini Disc recorder for field interviews & Sony Mini DV cam for visual footage.
when media is imported to FCE i sometimes lose sync.
I noticed a thread about a setting in preferences, but I'm unable to locate the sync option in my user preferences
any info is appreciated.

What audio rate does your machine use?
The audio rates that FCE use are either 32 or 48 kHz.
Firstly the Sequence you create to start an FCE project will have match your audio device.
That being said some audio devices do not record a precise rates of 32 or 48 eg. 48.01 kHz. What this means is Sync drift over time.
One remedy may to be capture in smaller chunks. Or, manually adjust in the Timeline.
Al

Similar Messages

Digitizing - loss of sync ver 6.0.3 blackmagic card

firstly hello everybody, this is my first post.
just wondering if anyone else had experienced loss of sync whilst digitizing on ver 6.0.3? we recently upgraded and have noticed the occasional loss of sync sometimes as bad as approx 4-5 secs. i use blackmagic cards, sdi inputs and the decks (j30/dvcam) have reference. you get no error messages and appears to happen at random times during capture, ie the top end of the media may appear fine but somewhere after half way the sync is lost. as we were going onto xsan i pretty much doubt it was a drive speed issue, i thought it to be a bug with 6.0.3 as when i rolled back to ver 6.0.1 i did'nt experience these issues. however i uninstalled + re-installed the blackmagic drivers a few times, on some vers the blackmagic capture presets would'nt appear in the capture tool! i eventually went back to vers 6.7.1 and it appeared to capture ok however just wondering if anyone else had this issue as at the time it caused me a fair bit of grief. cheers.

You do not use the 'Import' function under the File Menu to import P2 card content because the video content is still in its native form. For example, my Panasonic HPX 171 produces .MXF video files (amongst all the other files and folders within the overall heirarchy).
In order to access the copied P2 information you have to Log & Transfer it, as if it were a camera plugged into the computer. This process then converts the MXF P2 files into a Quicktime format that the Final Cut application can read and work with.
Take note that when archiving a P2 card as you did it is imperative that ALL the other files and folders are copied and saved. In other words, the entire 'CONTENTS' folder. It is this 'CONTENTS' folder that you navigate to within Log & Transfer when you want to import to FCP.

Exporting FCP 4.5 to Comp2-loss of sync for AIFF files and AC-3.

Hi All.
I have a 30 min finished project in FCP4.5, all runs fine.
If I export to DVD Studio Pro as a quicktime movie all is in sync and all audio ok.
Using Compressor to encode it the quality of the video is great and the aiff audio fine but about 2 seconds out of sync, I do have a few talking heads so lip sync I need.
Decided to try encode the audio as an AC-3 file, all seems ok, import into DVD, the files seem to be there, checked them, visuals great but no audio at all. I am just playing the audio out through the soundcard at present as just received my g5 and do not have speaker system yet. Have checked all settings and all seems ok. Compressor seems to be the culprit, I have checked all the settings at length.
The quicktime method will do the trick but am a bit puzzled by the loss of sync and then no audio at all when using compressor using the 2 different encodes.
Any thoughts??
Cheers Mick
G5 Dual Processor Mac OS X (10.4.4) 140G Lacie Ext Firewire HD
G5 Dual Processor Mac OS X (10.4.4) 140G Lacie Ext Firewire HD

I think I may have answered my sync problem. Having spent the afternoon reading an article by Jeff Warmouth, courtesy of the Ken Stone website, I think I made a mistake linking the files together, typo error.
Am still puzzled by the loss of sound after the AC-3 encode.
I will keep reading.
Thanks Mick
G5 Dual Processor Mac OS X (10.4.4) 140G Lacie Ext Firewire HD

Loss of sync speed (over 50%), openreach say line ...

Hi,
I hope someone can help!
For the last 24 months my sync speed has been a consistent and stable 7000+ so my BRAS profile was 6500.
Last weekend the connection dropped and now will not sync any faster than ~3000, so half the usual speed, well actually less because my BRAS is now 2500
I have checked all ADSL filters, connected the ADSL router directly to the master socket removing face place to disconnect the extension wiring, tried a different and known working router - another home hub and a Cisco, etc etc smae results.
The SNR on the line is unchanged at 35dB as previously be good for 7000+, so I can't understand why my sync is now 3000
At a sync of 3000 the SNR is 6dB (previously 7000 sync @ 6dB) which would suggest the line
is noiser than before, although no additional noise is heard on the voice line.
Openreach have been to visit - the line passed all of their tests. The openreach engineer also could not sync faster than ~3000.
He went to the exchange and redid the wiring to the DLSAM - no speed improvement.
He called me from the exchange and said that the DLSAM is "sending to me @ 7.2" - so I thought great, he's sorted it, then he told me no it would not be any better as "the line loses 1 meg for each km" .... so we entered a bit of dialogue about how the line could not be synced @7.x at the exchange end and 3.x at my end, about line sync, DMT tones etc etc I think I was going over his head! He then went on about maybe it's slower because there are now more users on the exchange - again I explained about how the contention actually works on the VC to the BT core, not by BT Wholesale decreasing sync speed on the DSLAM sync... again going over his head....
So basically he thinks it's fine as the line tested ok and I doubt I'll get any further change.
Now here is the strange thing -
...it was only after the call that I realised that he'd have no visibility of the sync speed on the DSLAM so when he said it's "sending to me at 7.2" he meant that he was plugged directly into the DSLAM port with his portable tester... Now he should be syncing @ 8Meg when connected directly to the DSLAM in the exchange, so it must be a fault on the DSLAM port / profile?
How do I go about getting BT wholesale to move me to a different port? Not only has my speed decreased but I get random re-syncs.
Please help!!! :-)
Cheers
Matt
PS provider is BT Total Broadband

Here's the other strange thing - I just reset the line to clear the stats, and made sure no other PCs were connected, i.e no significant volume of data being send/received, and in 5 minutes I have 160,000 FEC/Interleave errors - that's not right surely?
ADSL line status
Connection information
Line state
Connected
Connection time
0 days, 0:05:17
Downstream
3,392 Kbps
Upstream
448 Kbps
ADSL settings
VPI/VCI
0/38
Type
PPPoA
Modulation
ITU-T G.992.1
Latency type
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up)
5.9 dB / 22.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up)
36.0 dB / 21.0 dB
Output power (Down/Up)
19.5 dBm / 11.8 dBm
Loss of Framing (Local)
64
Loss of Signal (Local)
11
Loss of Power (Local)
0
FEC Errors (Down/Up)
165234 / 2
CRC Errors (Down/Up)
217 / 2147480000
HEC Errors (Down/Up)
nil / 0
Error Seconds (Local)
685

Loss of sync in iDVD 6

I am experiencing a tremendous shift in audio sync only AFTER I burn a DVD in iDVD 6. When I double check the file in both Final Cut Pro and iDVD, the audio appears perfectly in sync. When burned, however, the audio on the DVD shifts dramatically from the beginning of the program to the end.
Someone suggested that I export the audio seperately from the video and then combine them together in iDVD. However, I cannot seem to find a way to do that in iDVD!
Can anyone offer help on this? Much appreciated.

If I 'extract audio' as suggested, how do I then get the audio on to the dvd?
Extracting audio doesn't get rid of it, it just puts it on a separate audio track, so you will still have sound. This often helps fix sync issues.
Also, I keep using up dvd's and can't reuse them. There is no way of checking whether the audio will be synched on the dvd until I have watched it all the way through (getting a bit boring) is there?
Well there is a great way to check and avoid wasting DVDs! Use "Save as Disk Image" in iDVD. This creates a virtual fully encoded "image" of your DVD as a file. You can double click on it to mount as a virtual drive, and view your DVD using the Apple DVD Player (in your applications folder). Use the fast forward (set it to 16X or 32X) to see if your video stays in sync near the end. If everyting is fine, then burn the disk image to DVD using Disk Utility. I always use this method 100% of the time.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=164927
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93006
One more thing - I can't find the final edited version on imovie after I have saved it to dvd!!! Der - this is getting a bit hard.
Try using Spotlight......
John B.

Loss of sync converting from NTSC to PAL

Hello,
I'm trying to convert NTSC DV footage to PAL using Graeme's Nattress filter, but the footage goes out of sync.
Anyone knows how to fix the problem?
Thank you,
nicola

Most likely problem is that the timeline you're doing the conversion on is not PAL. You should open the sequence settings for the timeline, and check that it's 720x576 and 25fps. If you're following the nesting method from the instructions, make sure "nesting" is on. Also, if you've not already done so, watch the videos here:
http://www.nattress.com/standardsConversionMovie.htm
And get back to me via email if you have any problems,
Thanks,
Graeme

Anyone had issues with iTunes 11.0.4 like me? Keep getting initial (post upgrade) tutorial screen when going into iTune and loss of sync with 1st Gen Apple TV (infuriating as have to re-connect and re-sync everything!!!)

Following upgrade to iTunes 11.0.4 I have had intermittent but numerous (at least 10 incidents) where I go into iTunes and I am presented again with the initial (post upgrade) registration/tutorial screen....as if I have just upgraded iTunes!
This is very frustrating as apart from having to keep re-setting my preferences (e.g. display side bar and menu bar), iTunes no longer recognises my Apple TV (1st generation) as a device. If I check on my Apple TV under 'Computers' my iTunes library is displayed but 'grayed out' indicating the Apple TV can no longer 'see' my iTunes Library. To resolve, I then have to disconnect the Apple TV from my iTunes Library then reconnect again (which works) but ou've guesses it...al the music and movies I have synced across to Apple TV needs to be synced across again....which takes time as we know.
I have re-installed (and re-downloaded) iTunes twice and ruled out any connectivity issues. I suspect some form of bug with iTunes.
Anyone else experienced this and any tips to fix this?

Yes stupid itunes 11.0.4 does not sync to my Apple TV. I tried resetting it and no luck.

Memery Loss and Syncing problems

My Ipod Touch 4G (Version 4.3.5) has a Memory problem: It has over 2GB on the "Other" Part, yet doesnt clearly say what this is. Every time i Sync It raises the "other" bar until i have no Free space left, Then my iPod said it had no Disk Space left. This problem ocoured a while ago and means i cant sync my ipod anymore.

Is it 2GB or only 1/4 of that?
Maybe there is just the amount iOS has to have for its use.
Did you look at how much storage Safari and other apps take up? you always have those, you can clear history and cache there. Same for mail.

Loss of audio sync

I use FC Pro 5.0.4 with the video card Digital Voodoo D1 64 RT (driver 7.5) and with the sound card AES-32 of RME, because in the past I've had problems with the audio section of Voodoo (many pops and clicks). Both are connected to a Leitch SPG-1601, one to BB out and the other to word clock out. The capture is OK but when I edit to tape I have a random loss of sync of 2 or 3 frames, the audio comes first than video. When I edit to tape FC PRO show me this warning:
The selected audio and video devices may not match:
- Digital Voodoo.....
- Hammerfall DSP AES-32
Please verify that the audio and video outputs are externally routed to the intended device(s). Do you want to proceed?
The settings on the RME for me are correct and also on the Voodoo.
I don't know what to do. Please help me.
Power Mac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 2 x 2 Ghz, 3 GB RAM, Quicktime 7.0.4
Power Pc G5 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

It appears it occurs when you use an external monitor. If you turn the monitor off it syncs up.

Hard drive died on iMac and getting replacement. I have all photos backed up on my iPad 3, which was synced directly to the dead iMac's iTunes. How can I move them back to my laptop and eventually to the repaired iMac?

I'd like to restore photos from my iPad3 to the iMac once I have a new drive. I had uploaded them directly from the iMac onto the IPad via iTunes. That iTunes was wiped out in the drive failure. In the meantime I wanted to move the photos to my MacBook Pro, but iTunes tells me they belong to another iTunes (mine also but was on the iMac) and syncing will erase the content on the iPad. Moved all photos (4000+) to an album in iPhoto on the iPad, but iPhoto on the MacBook doesn't see the album- It only see photos directly taken on the iPad. I seem to be caught in an owenership issue between my photos, my computers, and permissions due to the dirve failure.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Todd

Photos synced to an iDevice are different from ones taken by the device's camera.
Difference between camera roll, photo stream, and photo library - https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3846502
You will need to use a third party utility to try to recover them as it is assumed that if you transferred them from your computer you alredy have the original files on the computer and a backup of the computer itself (do not rely upon your iPad as a backup). Furthermore, the photos transferred to your iPad have reduced quality so they are not as good as the originals.
Here's my old list of utilities (this list was really done for music rescue so make sure they do photos too):
Note: The information below hasn't been updated since early 2013.
Some of the information below has subsequently appeared in a document by turingtest2: Recovering your iTunes library from your iPod or iOS device - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3991
Your i-device was not designed for unique storage of your media. It is not a backup device and media transfer was planned with you maintaining a master copy of your media on a computer which is itself properly backed up against loss. Syncing is one way, computer to device, updating the device content to the content on the computer, not updating or restoring content on a computer. The exception is iTunes Store purchases which can be transferred to a computer.
iTunes Store: Transferring purchases from your iOS device or iPod to a computer - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848 - only purchases from iTunes Store
For transferring other items from an i-device to a computer you will have to use third party commercial software. Examples (check the web for others; this is not an exhaustive listing, nor do I have any idea if they are any good):
- Expod (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/expod/ - Mac, universal for 104.+ (newer machines try de-Tune)
- deTune (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/detune/ - Mac, 10.5+
- Senuti - http://www.fadingred.com/senuti/
- Phoneview - http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/
- MusicRescue - http://www.kennettnet.co.uk/products/musicrescue/
- Sharepod (free) - http://download.cnet.com/SharePod/3000-2141_4-10794489.html?tag=mncol;2 - Windows
- Snowfox/iMedia - http://www.mac-videoconverter.com/imedia-transfer-mac.html - Mac & PC
- iexplorer (free) - http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer/ - Mac&PC
- Yamipod (free) - http://www.yamipod.com/main/modules/downloads/ - PC, Linux, Mac [Still updated for use on newer devices? No edits to site since 2010.]
- 2010 Post by Zevoneer: iPod media recovery options - https://discussions.apple.com/message/11624224 - this is an older post and many of the links are also for old posts, so bear this in mind when reading them.

How do I reverse sync from 4s to MacBook Pro?

So I got nearly 200 songs, not much.
So I wanna sync them from my phone, which is a 4S, to my brand new MacBook Pro (I got it last night xD).
Problem is, about 160 of them are not iTunes purchased, they were downloaded from YouTube to my desktop, and well yea. I tried Sepuni or something like that, but it wouldn't transfer everything in playlist forms. I am very OCDish on my music. I keep it very organized, and I wanna keep it that way, and it took me about and hour and half to rename all the files and move them into folders in my Music folders, and double the time for iTunes. *sigh*
So basically, how do I get all my music onto my Mac the way it's organized on my phone without paying for anything?

Easy. You copy the whole iTunes folder from the computer with which you previously synced to the new computer, replacing the empty iTunes folder there, then start iTunes. Otherwise you may well be out of luck, and that goes double if you expect these utilities to be free on the Mac platform. Oh, you can export the playlists from the iOS device, but that's just the text listing, not a complete package of playlist and media.
Some of the information below has subsequently appeared in a document by turingtest2: Recovering your iTunes library from your iPod or iOS device - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3991
Your i-device was not designed for unique storage of your media. It is not a backup device and media transfer was planned with you maintaining a master copy of your media on a computer which is itself properly backed up against loss. Syncing is one way, computer to device, updating the device content to the content on the computer, not updating or restoring content on a computer. The exception is iTunes Store purchases which can be transferred to a computer.
iTunes Store: Transferring purchases from your iOS device or iPod to a computer - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848 - only purchases from iTunes Store
For transferring other items from an i-device to a computer you will have to use third party commercial software. Examples (check the web for others; this is not an exhaustive listing, nor do I have any idea if they are any good):
- Expod (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/expod/ - Mac, universal for 104.+ (newer machines try de-Tune)
- deTune (free) - http://www.headlightsoft.com/detune/ - Mac, 10.5+
- Senuti - http://www.fadingred.com/senuti/
- Phoneview - http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/
- MusicRescue - http://www.kennettnet.co.uk/products/musicrescue/
- Sharepod (free) - http://download.cnet.com/SharePod/3000-2141_4-10794489.html?tag=mncol;2 - Windows
- Snowfox/iMedia - http://www.mac-videoconverter.com/imedia-transfer-mac.html - Mac & PC
- iexplorer (free) - http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer/ - Mac&PC
- Yamipod (free) - http://www.yamipod.com/main/modules/downloads/ - PC, Linux, Mac [Still updated for use on newer devices? No edits to site since 2010.]
- 2010 Post by Zevoneer: iPod media recovery options - https://discussions.apple.com/message/11624224 - this is an older post and many of the links are also for old posts, so bear this in mind when reading them.
Syncing to a "New" Computer or replacing a "crashed" Hard Drive - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141 - dates from 2008 and some outdated information now.
Copying Content from your iPod to your Computer - The Definitive Guide - http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/articles/comments/copying-music-from-ipod-to-co mputer/ - Information about use in disk mode pertains only to older model iPods.
Get Your Music Off of Your iPod - http://howto.wired.com/wiki/Get_Your_Music_Off_of_Your_iPod - I am not sure but this may only work with some models and not newer Touch, iPhone, or iPad.
Additional information here https://discussions.apple.com/message/18324797

Sync Issues When a Separate Recorder is Used?

Unfortunately, I do not know the author of this material, and first saw it in another post to the Adobe forum. If the author sees this, please step up to take credit for a well-written explanation of why Audio is OOS with footage, when one has used a separate recorder, that is not hard-wired into the camera and deriving the sync signals from it. I must emphasize that I did not write this piece, and am only posting it to help others, when they use a separate recorder, not tied to the camera, say a Zoom, or similar.
I have also not used the mentioned/linked program, so cannot comment on that. However, I would make one change, if possible, and that would be to use PCM/WAV and not the recommended Linear WAV, as some Adobe programs can have issues with Linear WAV. Other than that little suggestion, I really like this piece, and for many other NLE's, the Linear WAV will probably not be an issue - just with some Adobe programs.
The Problem -
Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
The Solution
It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
Programs required (all free):
1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
2) Audacity , a free audio editor
3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to yourcomputer.
Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using thestart of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
Record this figure. It is the reference file length
Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.

Unfortunately, I do not know the author of this material, and first saw it in another post to the Adobe forum. If the author sees this, please step up to take credit for a well-written explanation of why Audio is OOS with footage, when one has used a separate recorder, that is not hard-wired into the camera and deriving the sync signals from it. I must emphasize that I did not write this piece, and am only posting it to help others, when they use a separate recorder, not tied to the camera, say a Zoom, or similar.
I have also not used the mentioned/linked program, so cannot comment on that. However, I would make one change, if possible, and that would be to use PCM/WAV and not the recommended Linear WAV, as some Adobe programs can have issues with Linear WAV. Other than that little suggestion, I really like this piece, and for many other NLE's, the Linear WAV will probably not be an issue - just with some Adobe programs.
The Problem -
Miniature audio recorders, be they minidisc or solid state, offer a very attractive, cost effective, alternative to the traditional use of radio microphones, for the capture of remote audio sources in video recordings
These machines record the audio in a variety of different formats - MP3, WMA, WAV, ATRAC -- and in a variety of qualities - but they all suffer from the same problem. It can be difficult to synchronise the remotely recorded audio, with the camera recorded audio.
Although the time honoured tradition of an audio 'clapper board' works well enough to align the beginning of the two soundtracks, there is a tendency for the two tracks to appear to 'drift' out of sync over time - and the longer the recording, the worse the problem. In fact they do not actually 'drift', but the gradual loss of sync is a function of the camera and audio recorder sample clocks being slightly different frequencies.
The simple reason for this loss of 'sync' therefore is that the audio is being recorded at different speeds. Although the recorder will specify the sampling frequency, the accuracy is then dependent on the internal crystal oscillator of the recorder - which is, of course, a different oscillator from the one controlling the camera timing. Although these crystals may typically be accurate to within 0.005% or better, even this degree of accuracy can cause the two recorded audio tracks to be out of sync by up to 300mS after 30 minutes. Even after 5 minutes, the 2 tracks can be some 60mS different in length, in a worst case scenario.
60mS difference will cause a distinctly audible 'echo' between the two audio tracks. (Even 20mS is detectable as a separate echo).
This difference is of course totally unacceptable, and corrections need to be applied. It is important to remember that even if your audio recorder crystal is absolutely accurate, and it is the camera clock that is slightly wrong, it is still the remote audio track that will have to be corrected. The 'wrong' camera audio track is the one in sync with the video, and has to be the 'master' track.
The Solution
It is important to realise that although the sample oscillators may vary with regard to each other, they tend to be remarkably accurate over time, referenced to themselves.
This means that if you know by how much the frequency your audio recorder sample 'clock' differs from the camera 'clock', then a single correction factor will bring both tracks back into sync.
A simple procedure is outlined below, using free programs, to enable you to calculate the correction factor required for your particular recorder.
Programs required (all free):
1) AoA audio Extractor --- (not necessary if you can extract the audio track from a video recording in your NLE)
2) Audacity , a free audio editor
3) Switch , a free audio file type converter
Step 1: Set up your camera and audio recorder next to each other, and start both running
Step 2: Make a good audio 'clapperboard' point by tapping a pencil firmly onto a hard surface, as close to both camera and recorder mics as possible. This will cause a fast 'edge' to become the reference point, which will be useful later.
Step3: Let both devices run for at least 10 minutes. 20 minutes are better, but not essential.
At the end of the period, (timing not critical), make a second similar 'clapperboard' reference point. Allow a few more seconds recording, and then stop both devices.
Step 4: Download the video from the camera, and the audio from the recorder to yourcomputer.
Step 5: Open the video file in 'AoA audio Extractor', and extract the audio from the video. Convert this audio file (if necessary) to a 48KHz 16 bit LPCM (wav) file, using the 'Switch' program linked to above. This file will be your reference audio file.
Step 6: Open the WAV file saved in the previous step in 'Audacity' - a free audio editor.
It is now necessary to save only the part of the file between the two 'clapperboard' references, which hopefully stand out clearly (if you hit the pencil hard enough in steps 2 and 3!).
This must be done accurately, to within 100th of a second, or better.
Click and drag the file to highlight the beginning section, including the first 'clapperboard' waveform. Use the 'fit selection to window' tool (immediately to the right of the 'zoom' tools) to magnify. Delete as much as possible before the 'clapper' reference. Repeat the operation until you can clearly identify the first distinct waveform of the 'clapper' reference waveform. Click, hold and place the cursor directly over the first full (clipped) waveform, where it crosses the centre line. Delete every thing to the left of that point, by clicking and dragging to highlight, and then deleting with the scissors tool.
Step 7: Repeat the above procedure for the end part of the waveform, again using thestart of the second 'clapper' waveform as your reference cutting point. In this case, cut everything to the right of your selected reference point (not the left, as in the first case.)
Step 8: It is necessary to record the exact length of this new cropped waveform. This information is listed at the bottom of the window, but in a rather inappropriate format. Locate the toolbar at the top of the window, click 'Edit'-'select all' and then 'Effects'-'change tempo' . Note the length of the file in seconds in the right hand box (the left hand box is greyed out).
Record this figure. It is the reference file length
Step 9: It is necessary to convert the file recorded on the audio recorder into an identical format to the camera audio track, namely 48 KHz 16 bit PCM. If the track is not already in this format, open it in Switch, a free file transfer program, and select the output encoding as 48 KHz 16 bit, mono or stereo to fit your audio file. This program will then convert whatever format your input file is (MP3, WMA, 44.1 KHz PCM, etc) into the required 48 KHz, 16 bit format required.
Step 10: Repeat the procedures in steps 6 and 7 for this new file. Edit the 'clapper' points with as much accuracy as before, but notice that the 'clapper' waveform will appear different from the first, although hopefully with as clearly defined first ' zero crossing' point.
Step 11: Repeat the procedure in step 8, and you will notice that the overall file length is different.
Overwrite the original file length into the right hand box, and take careful note of the resulting figure in the percent change box. Make sure you record whether it is a plus or minus value - it could be either! This is the most important figure, because it represents the percentage variation between the two units.
Once you have obtained this value, simply apply it to all files recorded with the same recorder and this camera. Providing you can align the start of the file with a single 'clapperboard' mark, there is no need to repeat the rest. Simply change the length of the external audio file by the correct percentage value, to allow the two audio tracks to remain synchronised.
It may seem a long winded process, but it only needs to be done once, and could then save quite a lot of time, against the option of trying to align tracks manually in your NLE, in small sections.
You may of course wish to use an alternative audio editor, and the details of this procedure may then be slightly different, but the principle remains the same.

How to transfer file from ipod touch to i tunes. i have files in my ipod , ut itunes is new so its telling if u sync the ipod all the files will be replaced but no files in the itunes.. so kindly help me how to transfer the files from i pod to itunesb

how to transfer file from ipod touch to i tunes. i have files in my ipod , ut itunes is new so its telling if u sync the ipod all the files will be replaced but no files in the itunes.. so kindly help me how to transfer the files from i pod to itunes......

Some of the information below has subsequently appeared in a document by turingtest2: Recovering your iTunes library from your iPod or iOS device - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3991
Your i-device was not designed for unique storage of your media. It is not a backup device and media transfer was designed for you maintaining a master copy of your media on a computer which is itself properly backed up against loss. Syncing is one way, computer to device, updating the device content to the content on the computer, not updating or restoring content on a computer. The exception is iTunes Store purchased content.
iTunes Store: Transferring purchases from your iOS device or iPod to a computer - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1848 - only media purchased from iTunes Store
For transferring other items from an i-device to a computer you will have to use third party commercial software. Examples (check the web for others; this is not an exhaustive listing, nor do I have any idea if they are any good):
- Senuti - http://www.fadingred.com/senuti/
- Phoneview - http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/
- MusicRescue - http://www.kennettnet.co.uk/products/musicrescue/
- Sharepod (free) - http://download.cnet.com/SharePod/3000-2141_4-10794489.html?tag=mncol;2 - Windows
- Snowfox/iMedia - http://www.mac-videoconverter.com/imedia-transfer-mac.html - Mac & PC
- iexplorer (free) - http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer/ - Mac&PC
- Yamipod (free) - http://www.yamipod.com/main/modules/downloads/ - PC, Linux, Mac [Still updated for use on newer devices? No edits to site since 2010.]
- 2010 Post by Zevoneer: iPod media recovery options - https://discussions.apple.com/message/11624224 - this is an older post and many of the links are also for old posts, so bear this in mind when reading them.
Syncing to a "New" Computer or replacing a "crashed" Hard Drive - https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141 - dates from 2008 and some outdated information now.
Copying Content from your iPod to your Computer - The Definitive Guide - http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/articles/comments/copying-music-from-ipod-to-co mputer/ - Information about use in disk mode pertains only to older model iPods.
Get Your Music Off of Your iPod - http://howto.wired.com/wiki/Get_Your_Music_Off_of_Your_iPod - I am not sure but this may only work with some models and not newer Touch, iPhone, or iPad.
Additional information here https://discussions.apple.com/message/18324797

Sync Services eliminated from Mavericks - can no longer sync contacts

I clearly made a big error updating to Mavericks. I only discovered after the installation that Mavericks no longer supports Sync Services, which was critical to my ability to sync my personal contacts and calendars to all of my devices. In the absence of restoring my computer back to Mountain Lion, I am wondering whether there is anything I can do, but I fear the incompatibilities are too great to surmount.
My work email, contacts, and calendar are on a 2003 Microsoft Exchange server, and I have no power to change that. That apparently means that the only Mac email client I can use to sync my work contacts and calendar is Microsoft Entourage 2008. (The email is less of a problem, as I believe I could access it through IMAP.) I had also been using Entourage for many years for my personal email, contacts, and calendar, so it has been nice having everything centralized in one program. To sync my personal contacts and calendar, I was using Sync Services to sync everything first with Apple's Address Book and iCal/Calendar, and then those were synced with my online Google account to serve the rest of my devices.
I had everything set up, as described above, to conveniently sync everything in all directions. Then came Mavericks and the unexpected loss of Sync Services. Now, Entourage 2008 is completely isolated from the outside world with regard to contacts and calendar events, and I believe the same would be true of the newer Outlook 2011. (I never even bothered to upgrade to Outlook 2011, because it apparently is not compatible with 2003 Exchange Server, so it would not have functioned with my work contacts and calendar.) Apple Mail is also apparently not compatible with 2003 Exchange Server. I tried DAVMail to serve as an intermediary to no avail.
Then, I thought, well, perhaps I could continue to use Entourage 2008 for work email, contacts, and calendar, and switch to Apple Mail, Address Book, and Calendar for my personal email, contacts, and calendar. That is not particularly convenient, but perhaps it would not be too bad. However, I cannot figure out how to transfer my hundreds of calendar events from Entourage 2008 to Apple Calendar. There is an "Import from Entourage" function in the Calendar program, but nothing ever gets imported. It will launch Entourage, if Entourage is not already running, and it will crash Entourage sometimes, but nothing ever gets imported.
I can also export my calendar events from Entourage in RGE format (some sort of archive format), and I could probably also get them into Outlook 2011 and then export them in OLM format. However, Calendar cannot handle either of those either. I am also not particularly impressed with the functionality of Calendar relative to Entourage/Outlook's calendar system.
So, now I am wondering whether my best option is to restore my computer to Mountain Lion and hope that my work will eventually change to a 2007 or newer version of Exchange Server. It seems that there are a lot more syncing options on the Windows side of things, as well, so I am thinking my next computer is going to be Windows, and I am due for a new one soon.

I restored to 10.8.5 using Time Machine. However, Time Machine immediately seemed to get confused and tried backing up my entire entire hard drive, even though I had just restored it and nothing had changed. This process went on for like six hours, and I was afraid to interrupt it. In the end, it failed, because the backup drive was too full. But it kept trying unsuccessfully to backup the whole thing, and I could not figure out a way to make it stop! Eventually, I had to reformat the backup drive and start over with a new backup, which took another eight hours.
I am going to buy a new computer in the next few months, because my current Mac is over five years old, but I will likely switch to Windows after 20 years of using a Mac at home. It saddens me a bit, and I know that my sync problem with Entourage/Outlook is probably mostly the fault of Microsoft. However, I must have compatibility with my system at work, and the simple fact is that is not possible on the Mac without jumping through hoops.
In addition, Apple presented Mavericks as a free upgrade in the App Store and promoted all of its alleged new features, but they did not list the things that had been removed (including the Sync Services functionality on which I depended). Given the widespread usage of Office for Mac, I would think it might have been good for them to reveal that broken functionality more prominently. Then, of course, there was the fiasco of trying to restore things back with Time Machine.
Sigh....

Ical mini calendar loss

I am really annoyed with Apple over the loss of the mini calendar view in Lion. This is (amongst other issues) a huge step backward in terms of functionality. Please reeinstate this as a matter of urgency as it makes planning a nightmare. I am now being pushed to the dreaded Microsoft solution or at the very least another calendar app.

I just switched to Lion today (because of the loss of sync options with the closing of MobileMe), and I really miss the mini calendars and the sidebar. I just sent the feedback form to Apple also asking for the option to see mini calendars and the sidebar again. I am so disappointed that it's been almost a year of people asking for such a basic thing. I also dislike the "leather" look, and would like an option to make it a plain window like before, but the mini calendar loss afects my daiy use of it so much. I do switch to the year view to see the months but it's a pain because when you are in the edit window of an event then switch view to yearly then back to weekly the edit window closes an you have to start over again. I just like to see it all at once so I can plan things out. I don't want to lose something so basic to the use of any calendar. I am posting this in the hope that Apple will see it and change iCal, but also so that others might be inspired to submit a feedback form about this issue if it affects them. It's hard to believe though that after a year of people complaining about it and nothing changing, that we have any hope of getting mini calendars again. People keep saying "Just use BusyCal", and it looks like a nifty product, but paying an additional $50 to fix what we lost in Lion is so disappointing. Why is iCal not improved in Lion, made more like BusyCal or something amazing? Instead it's cut in half and looks so lame now.

Loss of Sync

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