Mac SSD Question

I have a quick question about my mac's hard drive.  My buddy gave me a Corsair 128GB Solid State Drive (p/n: cssd-p3128gb2) and wanted to know if it will fit\work with my early 2008 macbook pro (p/n MB134LL/A).
Do you know if it will work or have a website that I could check?

As long as the Corsair SSD is a slim model it will fit/work.

Similar Messages

  • New Hard Drive: Mac Face/Question Mark on boot

    I installed a new hard drive in my fathers iBook G4 1.33 GHz and installed Leopard. I instantly had problems after the installation was complete and the computer restarted. I got the Mac Face/Question Mark for a second and then it booted to the installation CD.
    I used disk utilities to verify and repair the disk and permissions which both finished successfully. I tried to reboot with the same result: Mac Face/Question Mark for a second and then it booted to the installation CD. I decided to erase and reinstall Leopard. Installation complete - Restart - Mac Face/Question Mark. I decided to turn if off for the night.
    I powered up in the morning with short-lived success, as I got the Leopard Welcome video. I set up the system and did some software updates, which eventually required a restart. Boom. Mac Face/Question Mark. I decided to hold the option key on my next restart to see if I could select the hard drive installation over the install CD. I was able to do so, and it booted fine to the hard drive. I continued my software updating, installed some more software like iLife '08, Firefox, Open Office, Stuffit Expander, etc. After all my installation and updating, the system operates great, except when I have to start up. I still have the Mac Face/Question Mark.
    I have a theory that the hard drive jumper is set incorrectly, but I don't want to waste 45 mins. cracking the thing open to find out. Can anyone confirm? I'm open to all other theories, of course.

    No jumper means Cable Select (CS). This would mean that the cable from the motherboard to the drive has a blue connector at the motherboard and a black connector on the end where the drive plugs in. The gray connector in the middle is the Slave position. Master/Slave relationship is determined by where on the cable the device is plugged in.
    The CS cables and the setting was not used very often until around 2004 or 2005. Until that time all of the connectors on the cable were the same color and the Master/Slave setting was determined by the jumper on the drive.
    It's very possible that you are trying to use a drive that's been setup for the newer systems as Cable Select, when actually you should force the drive to be a Master by installing a jumper on the proper pins.
    Are there two deviced on the cable besides the motherboard, and are all of the connectors the same color? Or is the connector that plugs into the motherboard black? Then you are probably not looking at a CS buss.

  • Reporting of free disk space improper for my Mac SSD

    Frequently I find that the reported free disk space shown on the desktop for my Mac SSD is wrong since I upgraded to 10.10.3
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    To fix it I go to preferences and open Time Machine and turn it off, and then back on.....this has corrected the issue.
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    OK, So I dl'd that and ran it and it only showed an additional swap file directory called "Private" that had about 3 gigs, still about 27 gig's missing.....
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    10.7 Lib
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  • .mac mail question:I have an old emac without an intel chip...

    .mac mail question:I have an old emac without an intel chip...I have a .mac email account, I would like to be able to have my emails automatically forwarded to a gmail account. I cannot access icloud with this old machine, any ideas? thanks! and aloha!

    Hello,
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    Do not delete the old account yet. sign up for an iCloud account if you haven't.
    I understand .mac mail will still come through. Do not delete the old account yet.
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    On second step where it asks "Description", it has to be a unique name, but you can still use your email address.
    IMAP (Incoming Mail Server) information:
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    • SSL Required: Yes
    • Port: 993
    • Username: [email protected] (use your @me.com address from your iCloud account)
    • Password: Your iCloud password
    SMTP (outgoing mail server) information:
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    • SSL Required: Yes
    • Port: 587
    • SMTP Authentication Required: Yes
    • Username: [email protected] (use your @me.com address from your iCloud account)
    • Password: Your iCloud password
    Also, you must upgrade your password to meet the new criteria:  8 characters, including upper and lower case and numbers.  If you have an older password that does not meet these criteria, when you try to setup mail on your mac, using all of the IMAP criteria listed above, it will still give a server error message.  Go to   http://appleid.apple.com         then follow directions to change your password, then go back to setting up your mail using the IMAP instructions above.
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    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3867171?tstart=0

  • SSD Question for Mac Pro 1,1

    Would either of these SSD's work as an OS Boot Drive for a Mac Pro 1,1?
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820322012
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820141419

    Here are the specs of each drive
    1st
    General
    Brand Imation
    Series M-Class
    Model 27509
    Device Type Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
    Architecture MLC
    Expansion / Connectivity
    Form Factor 2.5"
    Capacity 32GB
    Interface Type SATA II
    Features FAST
    Performance
    Sequential Access - Read 150MB/s
    Sequential Access - Write 90MB/s
    2ND
    General
    Brand PQI
    Model DK9320GD3R000A03
    Device Type Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
    Architecture MLC
    Expansion / Connectivity
    Form Factor 2.5"
    Capacity 32GB
    Interface Type SATA II
    Features Intel MLC
    Performance
    Max Shock Resistance 1500G
    Max Vibration Resistance 20G
    Sequential Access - Read up to 170MB/s
    Sequential Access - Write up to 100MB/s
    MTBF 1,500,000 hours
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    Message was edited by: thehenry
    Message was edited by: thehenry

  • Mac air book ssd questions(i'm new here)

    hi, i am new here on this forum. i've been debating/planning on buying the mac air book ssd for some weeks now already...but recently spend a hour reading through all the mac air book problems on here it's making me think twice. i mean the machine looks awsome and etc..but i've been hearing it has wireless problems...one thing about me is that i'm a wireless guy and that is the sole purpose i will be buying this machine for. have they fix these problems yet on the air? like freezing, over-heating, and wireless problems? any answers will greatly be appreciated.
    thanks

    I can tell you to go with the 1.8/64GB SSD if you can. Especially with the price drop. I know from experience that when I had the 1.6/80 (was returned because of a heat issue), I upgraded to custom 1.8/80GB HDD and there is a difference. I now use it as a primary computer with no issues. For the $500 more, go with SSD if you can... much faster read rates, snappy overall, and very quick startup times. Some people say go for HDD, but I do notice it is sluggish at times, but still okay overall for the price and extra space.
    About freezing, yes, I've had the odd freeze, but probably general computer related, such as when I leave it on all the time and use sleep on/off. Perhaps an app is causing this, so I now try to restart every once in a while. Other than that, it is rock solid and I carry this computer everywhere becuase it is so portable. I purchased the Speck SeeThru Smoke Case... looks great, and easier to carry around (but it is heavy at first). About wireless issues, never had an issue, it works like a charm.

  • Got Mac/Apple Questions? We've Got Experts! HP Expert Day – Nov 6, '13

    Thank you for coming to Expert Day – the event has now concluded.
    **To find out about future HP Expert Day events, check out this page**
    On behalf of the Experts, I would like to thank you for coming to the Forum to connect with us.  We hope you will return to the boards to share your experiences, both good and bad.
    We will be holding more of these Expert Days on different topics in the months to come.  We hope to see you then!
    If you still have questions to ask, feel free to post them on the Forum – we always have Experts on the HP Support Forum to help you out.
    On November 6, 2013, the Consumer Support Forum will host an Expert Day dedicated to answering your questions about Mac OS X, iOS and AirPrint™ for HP products and peripherals. With the introduction of Apple’s new OS X Mavericks, we’re ready to help with set-up, installation and general HP compatibility questions all day long.
    Join Mac experts on the forum between 8:00am and 6:00pm Pacific Time to learn all about Mac compatibility with HP printing and peripheral solutions.  No question is off-limits and the event is free for both in-and out-of warranty products.
    How to Participate
    To participate in Mac Expert Day, simply log into the Consumer Support forum and head to the Mac Printing & Scanning Board to post a question. Select the “Email me when someone replies” option to receive a notification when and Expert addresses your question. 
    If you are not already a forum member, simply click “Register Now” on the forum home page (www.hp.com/supportforum) and follow the quick registration process.
    Remember to say "Thanks" by clicking the Kudos Star in the post that helped you.  You can also mark the post that solves your problem as "Accepted Solution."
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    Looking forward to seeing you on November 6th!
    I work for HP, supporting the HP Experts who volunteer their time and technical knowledge to help others.
    --Say "Thanks" by clicking the Kudos Star in the post that helped you.
    --Please mark the post that solves your problem as "Accepted Solution"

    I had this exact same issue on a Spectre XT Pro Ultrabook. 
    The original SSD failed and I was sent a replacement, was fortunate enough to be able to create a Recovery USB stick using the wizard in Windows. When booting from USB I received the message "You are not able to restore this system with the media".
    SOLUTION: You must NOT use the Recovery USB stick in any USB3.0 port (labelled SS). Using another USB port prevented this exact error message from appearing and I was able to complete the system restore process.
    I hope this helps someone, I signed up and posted here especially for this reason!

  • Did I just notice this? Mac SSD Formatted wrong, now what?

    While installing adobe CC on my MacBook 256GB SSD hard drive, I got an error that says my hard drive is formatted incorrectly and I will not be able to install Photoshop or any of the other programs.  Instead of me backing up my entire system and reformatting my hard drive and then re-installing it
    My question: what amount of space do I need on a partition to install CC and *ALL* the CC apps on the partition drive. Also, I would like to know if this solution would actually work?
    Note: My primary hard drive is currently formatted case sensitive. I will be reformatting the partition that I make (which is not made yet) as Mac OSX journaled.  I will not be storing my creative cloud files on the partition as I don't think that is necessary..
    Here is my bonus add on question: Do creative cloud files need to be on the same partition as the actual CC apps?

    Your plan won't work. you need to reformat the whole drive. The installer will still refuse to work if the primary system volume is incompatible since even if you define another location for everything there will always be some components on the root drive.
    Mylenium

  • DVD Rom, RAM, and SSD question(s)

    I purchased a nice T400 (6475-B14) on Ebay and I have upgraded a number of items on it to get it to where I want it.
    I upgraded the OS to W7 Pro, put in a Lenovo 4GB RAM stick (now I have a 4GB and a 2GB), and I swapped out the HDD for an Intel X-25 G2 80GB SSD.
    90% of the time the machine is great, however I have run into a few problems and I'm really hoping that someone here can help me.
    The first issue, is the fact that every once in a while the machine can't start.  I end up having to restore the machine using R&R.  I don't know what could be the issue.  I've replaced the OS and HDD so I'm not sure what to do next.  I am by no means a computer expert, but could the mis-matched RAM (1X4GB with 1X2GB) be causing the problem?  I don't mind getting another 4GB stick, but if it won't do anything to fix the issue I don't want to waste the money.
    Number two, I'm trying to burn an image recovery disk, but according to the Nero Tool I can't write with my drive (HL-DT-St DVD-ROM DU10N).  Do I need additional software?  I find it hard to believe that Lenovo would include a drive that only reads and is not capable of writing on DVD or CD, but based on the searches I've done on this forum and others, I can't find any other answer. 
    Lastly, the SSD seems to be working great (I've only had to restore the system once since installing it, see issue number one), but I see in the Lenovo download site there is an ISO file for SSD's.  However since I can't burn a DVD, I can't burn the ISO file.  So my question(s) is/are do I really need the software?  Can I use my Apple Mac Pro at home to burn the ISO file and then use that disk to install the software?
    Sorry for the long, rambling questions, but I have tried to search a number of forums and the internet in general and I haven't been able find the answers.
    Thanks!
    GBA

    hello mate,
    For your first issue the RAM can be the problem. U can mix different size of RAM but make sure to use DDR3 PC3-8500 or DDR3 PC3-10600 memory. And also the T400 does not support ECC be careful to don't mix ECC and non ECC memory.
    For your second question your HL-DT-St DVD-ROM DU10N is just a DVD ROM reader and it's not capable to write any CD or DVD.
    I don't know about the software for your SSD but if it's an ISO file for windows you can burn it with a mac it won't make a difference. All discs burned on the Mac work across platforms.
    Knowledge is of two kinds. We know a subject ourselves, or we know where we can find information on it.
    ThinkPad T510 4313-CTO Windows 8 x64 - Intel Core i7-620M - NVIDIA NVS 3100M - 8GB RAM - 240GB SSD- Intel Centrino Ultimate-N 6300 - Gobi 2000.
    ThinkPad Helix 3697-CTO Windows 8.1 x64 - Intel Core i7-3667U - Intel HD Graphics 4000 - 8GB RAM- 256GB SSD - Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6205 - Ericsson C5621gw

  • HDD, Streamlining FCS and general Mac Pro questions

    Hello Everyone. I just got a Mac Pro and am setting it up.
    I've got the 2.8 Quad Core, 1TB HDD and 3 Gigs of Ram, 5770 ATI
    I work a lot with FCS, Maya and Adobe Products.
    I didn't get the top of the line tower as I was hoping with the money I saved I can buy some add-ons. I want to get some RAM, a 2nd monitor and more hard drive space.
    I work mainly with FCS doing editing. My video is mainly HD video in a 422 codec. I do a lot of compressing to H.264 as well as motion graphics and 3D. I also do a lot of transcoding as the raw footage I get is usually in a h.264 codec and comes from the Cannon 7D, T2i or the Sony EX1 and some Panasonics.
    I can either by a 2TB internal 7200rpm WD or I've been looking at the SSDs. The SSD's look really tempting but are expensive compared to the HDDs. Would it be that much of a performance boost for my software if I use SSDs? I was thinking about buying a 40GB SSD and housing all my scratch files for FCS on it.
    Currently (Until I get my tower set up) I've use a Macbook Pro. All of the FCS software is installed on the hdd.... all of the templates and extras I have are installed on an external GDrive. All the scratch files are stored on it as well.
    If I remember right as a FCS user we are not supposed to run FCS from the same HDD which the scratch files are on, correct? Should I install a 2nd drive to save all my scratch files to and work with the media from there? I have some external HDD's but I think I would like the speed of a internal drive better.
    If I buy a SSD should that be my boot up disc drive or should that be the drive which houses the media?
    As a last question. What is a good way to back up my Mac Pro HDD? I have a 1TB external G Drive (FW800) a 500GB G Drive min (FW800) and an internal 1TB WD (SATA)?
    Any help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
    -Fraky

    Forget SSD drives in a tower - waste of money.
    Fill your bays with 3 1TB or 2TB drives. Why did you put your templates on a drive other than the system? The only time I'd consider that was if I was running a laptop with very limited space. One a tower, it makes no sense. Reinstall the FCS suite and locate all the extras on the same drive as the application.
    Use the G-raid as a backup system drive or use one of the tower's 4 as a clone of the system. You should always have a working backup in case the main system goes south during an update or by adding incompatible software.
    Use one of the other drives in the tower for the scratch and the remaining drive(s) to store projects.
    The money you save by not purchasing SSD drives should be spent on RAM. While the current FCP is 32 bit and therefor can not use more than 4 GB (2.5GB for the program and 1.5GB for the frameworks), the extra RAM will allow you run multiple apps simultaneously without starving the programs.
    This question - or some variation is asked regularly. Do a search and you should find all sorts of configurations explained.
    x

  • TRIM Support in Mac SSD

    I am about to purchase my first Mac and Im so excited. But before I do I have a question about the SSD. I was not planning on buying the SSD, but instead just going to some 7200RPM HDD but realized the price was only an additional $90, a price you can not just go out and buy one at.
    My only concern is the lack of TRIM in Mac OSX. Now, their is speculation (and partial proof) that Lion will have TRIM support, but from what I have researched TRIM is also a hardware variable and not just software. Does anyone know if the new MacBook Pro's SSDs offer TRIM support? Also, will my SSD, by Summer hopefully, be negatively effected by the few months of the lack of TRIM?
    Thank you so much,
    Ben

    You do not need to run any UNIX (or any other) programs to 'TRIM' the drive. If the drive firmware supports TRIM (as all newer drives do) and the operating system supports the TRIM command, you will benefit from this feature. The way TRIM works is this:
    When you delete a file from a drive, the operating system marks the space used by the file as free so it can be used again. On a mechanical hard drive this works fine and the space will get written over as needed. Unfortunately, the SSD does not know the difference between erasing a block and writing over it with new data, so they are treated the same. The problem that occurs with SSD is that each block on the drive has a limited number of write cycles it can withstand before failing so the SSD firmware tries to spread out the usage of blocks on the drive by a process called wear-levelling. This ensures that the drives last as long as they need to, but results in fragmentation of the drive. This is a lower level fragmentation than what is typically referred to when discussing hard drive fragmentation and is not really related. This low level fragmentation can result in reduced performance of the drive over time, as blocks are erased and data is moved around by the wear-levelling.
    The drive manufacturers have worked wonders trying to minimize this effect with intelligent firmware, but it is still a measurable problem. This is where TRIM comes into play. If the TRIM command (a low level drive command, not something you run from within the operating system) is supported throughout the system, deleting of a file will cause the operating system to issue TRIM to the SSD instead of just marking the blocks as empty as would be done on a mechanical hard disk. The SSD then knows that these blocks are no longer needed and the drive firmware can then clean up more efficiently. The drive firmware will show the space as available (because it is) but will not actually perform a write to that part of the drive until a later time, when enough blocks are ready to be TRIM'd all at once. This works in conjunction with the wear leveling to reduce wear on the flash cells and prevent fragmentation from occurring. For a more detailed description of TRIM, I recommend checking out the articles by Allyn Malventano over at PC Perspective:
    http://www.pcper.com/comments.php?nid=7488
    That site is mostly geared towards Windows users, but the basics of SSD operation are the same, and Allyn is definitely an expert when it comes to storage technology.
    As far as over-provisioning goes, this provides a way to reduce fragmentation without the need for TRIM support (although the SandForce drives also can do TRIM). Over-provisioning involves setting aside a certain amount of flash memory on the SSD (7-28% typically) that is not available (or visible) to the operating system. The firmware uses this extra storage space to more efficiently defragment and wear-level the drive and it is transparent to the operating system. This is why an Intel X25 G2 drive will benefit more from TRIM support than a SandForce based drive like the OWC or Vertex series ones. The above mentioned site also has some good articles about over-provisioning, including comparisons of the same drive with 7% and 28% overhead. It boils down to this: if you have a SandForce drive, TRIM support is not as important because the drive does a good job on its own. If you use a different SSD, TRIM support is very beneficial, and we should all hope that OS X delivers full support for TRIM in the near future. Also, the added expense for the enterprise level (28% over-provisioned) SandForce drives is normally not justified, especially in a single drive setup.

  • LOTS of Mac & Macbook Questions

    Hey all,
    My parents have just told me that as a birthday/xmas gift they are going to help me buy a laptop
    I wanted to know a couple things:
    My dad got a macbook free (SO lucky) through his work but it is the most basic 1.83Ghz with 512mb ram Core Duo version. I really wanted the Black Macbook but it is probably going to be out of my price range so I am thinking of the White one with 2.0Ghz/1Gb ram Core 2 Duo. Am I going to notice a really significant performance leap? I am only asking what would seem to be a stupid question because I was playing with a brand new Black Core 2 Duo version at a local retailer and it seemed rather sluggish when compared to the Core Duo my dad has at home. This through me for a bit of a loop so yea could someone throw out their opinion on this?
    Secondly, i've had iPods for a while and I see this macbook as being in the same boat as needing protection from regular daily use. I have my eye on one of those Speck hard cases but they are not available in town (yet) so I can't actually see what one would look like. I was curious to know if anyone here has used one and is the Red really red or is it kind of a pink colour (when overtop of a white macbook)?
    Also, will this hardcase scratch the macbook? I've had hard plastic cases like this for my ipod and it tended to get scratched up inside of the case...not nearly as bad as it would without it but still some damage non-the-less.
    My dad's battery life is about 3hrs give or take a bit on his Core Duo ... will my Core 2 Duo have more life? And if so about how much? (I know I know it depends on usage but can it really hit close to that 6hr mark apple is advertising?)
    Finally, I have never owned a laptop, or a mac, before so I am going to be leaving the old PC desktop behind and I wanted to know: I use Microsoft's OneNote for typing notes for class and I enjoy that you can draw quick diagrams (MS Paint style) and drag/drop them anywhere on the page. What I don't enjoy is that once they are in a spot they refuse to move! What is a good program on Mac to take notes and offer drag/drop picture abilities?
    Also...can someone tell me any reasons, anything at all that would deter me from Mac? I would love to game but honestly my PC hasn't been able to do it for years so i'm used to it, i've got an Xbox, and my parents (logically enough) don't want to fund a gaming machine they want something I can use productively at school. So gaming isn't a major concern and i'm pretty sure Mac will handle all I need but if someone has had a bad experience do let me know.
    And finally, the very last question: I love a number of features on Leopard ... but I hear it is to be released in the Spring. Thats a bit too long for me (I want to use this for next semester) so how much will Leopard cost a student AND is there any other major things/changes to the macbook that I shoudl wait for (something like their switch from Core Duo to Core 2)?
    I know thats a lotta questions but now that my parents are seriously going to help me out this can happen in a week so I gotta get my facts straight haha.
    Thanks a lot all!
    Chris
    P.S. I hadn't used my mac account for a while ... and while I was able to reset my password it forced me to change my user name from touchmyrouter to what it is now ... any suggestions on how to get my original back?
    Custom Built Windows XP

    Let me address your questions one at a time:
    1) You'll notice a small but significant performance boost between a 1.83GHz Core Duo and a 2.0GHz Core 2 Duo. As for which is the best deal, I'd say the current 2.0GHz Core 2 Duo White, because it comes with a bigger hard drive, more RAM, a dvd-burning superdrive, and a faster processor, all for about $150 more. The DVD-R drive is great for backups, and you need at least 1GB of RAM to get decent performance anyway, so it's money well spent.
    2) I don't know much about cases. For travel, I actually am currently using the soft slip-case I bought for my TiBook (Powerbook G4 15"). It's a bit big for the computer, but it works well for travel. I haven't noticed any bad scratching yet, but I haven't moved my laptop around much either.
    3) The Core 2 Duo MacBook probably gets about the same battery life as the Core Duo. 3 1/2 hours per charge with Airport on and doing some light to moderate computing is about the best you can get from any laptop with current battery technology.
    4) For note-taking, the MacBook comes with OmniOutliner, which is awesome for making outlines. The version that comes bundled allows you to attach documents and graphics within the outline, but I don't think it's very robust. OmniGroup also makes OmniGraffle, which allows you to make flowcharts that are graphics-heavy. I find that it's a little overly complicated at times, but I've also made some amazing stuff with it.
    5) I don't know what would deter you from buying a Mac. I've had very few problems over 12 years of ownership of various Macs. They tend to be very reliable, and when things do go wrong, Apple is usually prompt and professional in fixing them.
    6) Leopard is probably going to cost students about $69.00, as I seem to recall paying that as a student for every version of the Mac OS starting from 10.0 all the way through 10.4. I doubt Apple will suddenly raise the price for Leopard, though you never know.
    Good luck with your new MacBook. It really is an awesome computer, despite all the flack it takes on these boards from a handful of users with defective units.
    P.S. I don't know how to get back your old account.

  • Switching to Mac: MBPr Questions!

    Hey all,
    So I've been a Windows user my whole life, but I've finally decided to switch to Mac after witnessing the beauty and grace of the 13" mac book pro retina that my friend just bought. It's astonishing. Plus, there's no better time to switch than when you have a 3 year old HP laptop and are in university.
    Since switching to Apple is bloody expensive (nearly double the budget of what I usually spend on laptops), I want to carefully calculate my decision.
    I know that the most recent MBP to be released was in October 2013, and it updated to Intel Haswell processors. BUT I also happen to know that Intel Broadwell processors are coming out within the next couple of months, and are said to be around 30% more efficient. Do any of you know if Apple has the tendency to regularly update their MBPs?
    The reason I ask is because if there won't be an update to the MBP until October 2014, then I might as well invest in one now, but if there is a chance that a newer model will be released in the coming months, I'll definitely hold out until then!
    Also, another couple of questions:
    Without tweaking the MBP (by adding extra ram, processing power, etc...), how well will it run software like Ableton Live, as well as various games such as call of duty?
    Thanks a bunch everyone,
    Hopefully I'll also be part of the Mac family soon!

    There will always be some kind of upgrade to the macbook pros every year. You shouldn't stress about trying to keep up with technology I have a 13" retina late 2013 and am very happy with it.
    I did do some research and found out that  Apple will not release the Broadwell processors until late 2014.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/news/broadwell-to-launch-2h-2014,24765.html
    A $300 PS3 can run Call of Duty so of course a $1,000 +Mac will run it just fine. Ableton Live will run great.
    If you are going to have lots of apps open, then the 4GB ram on the base model of the 13 inch might not be enough and I would recommend upgrading to 8GB ram or get the mid model 13 inch as it has more storage anyway.
    I do not recommend getting the 15 inch as it would cost you over $2,000!

  • Mac mini questions and advice.

    i'd like to eventually purchase a mac mini, but is the apple care protection plan worth it??? sorry multiple questions will a fully loaded mac mini 160 gb hard drive and 2 gigs of ram be an improvement over my current set up... pentium 4, 1.60 GHz.... 1.59 GHz, 512 mb of ram... 70.2gb hard drive
    one more question, will there be any trouble hooking up the mac mini to my 32 inch sony lcd.
    sorry for all the questions, would appreciate any advice and feedback.

    Can you give us the model number of your 32 inch Sony lcd? The Mini supports resolutions up to 1920x1200. We need to find out what kind of beast your 32 inch Sony is; it sounds kinda big for a regular monitor -- more like a TV display.
    Hard to say if the Mini will be an improvement over your PC, unless we know what programs you want to run. It would obviously be an improvement in term of security; you won't be worrying about keeping virus definitions up-to-date every week.
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