Macbook air 13 inch gets warm but fan doesn't turn on

I'm using a 13-inch Macbook Air Mid 2013, Two weeks ago someone broke into my parents house and stole my laptop. it's been a week that I got my laptop from police department and I feel like it gets warm but the fan does not turn on at all.
I tried to make the fan turn on by opening these apps at the same time: Photo Booth, Playing a movie on VLC Player, Preview, Chrome, Parallels desktop, AppStore, iTunes and playing a simple game called MadSkills Motocross (which was turning on the fan before).
The laptop got warm but nothing happened. I think maybe the computer puts those useless apps in Hibernate mode and it ain't gonna turn the fan on.
I don't know if that's a new problem or it's just me feeling this way. I don't have access to any Apple Stores so I'm looking for some ways that I can make sure the fan works properly.
Can it be a problem with OSX 10.9.5? Cuz I upgraded my laptop just before the incident and I didn't use it.

I don't use any type of monitoring application, but if you suspect that something is wrong the following may give you some more specific information: https://itunes.apple.com/app/check-my-temp/id467830521?mt=12

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Has anyone else noticed their macbook air (11-inch, Late 2010) fan running constantly?

Since i updated to 10.8.4, i've noticed the fan is running almost constantly on my Macbook Air (11-inch, Late 2010) and the computer gets very hot. I looked in Activity Monitor and saw that both Safari and Finder were using CPU, but it's by no means spiked. Anyone else notice this?

Try resetting your system's System Management Controller (SMC) to see if that helps the problem. The SMC is responsible for managing the feedback for the fans to respond to temperature changes.
See here for how to reset it for your system: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964

When I run multiple Microsoft powerpoint files at a time on my MacBook Air, it simply gets hotter and generates little noise (most probably fan noise). Will this make any effect on life span of MBAir??

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Theoretically, yes.
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Which MacBook Air should I get? 13 inch or 11 inch

I want a MacBook Air for Reaktor 5, uploading videos to YouTube with iMovie, stuff I cannot do on my iPad, games (Assassins Creed, Bioshock), web browsing, etc. Should I get the Refurbished MacBook Air 11 inch 128gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i7 2.0 ghz, or refurbished Macbook Air 13 inch 256gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i5 1.8ghz. I am 12 years old so I need something more portable than the MacBook Pros.

If you can afford, buy a new MB Air 13-inch with 256 GB storage and 8GB RAM.
Otherwise go for "refurbished Macbook Air 13 inch 256gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i5 1.8ghz".

HT3255 i have macbook air 13,3" but when i go to:From the Apple () menu, choose About This Mac. Click More Info. For OS X Mountain Lion, click System Report. MacBook Air 11 inch mi 2011, why why please

i have macbook air 13,3" but when i go to:From the Apple () menu, choose About This Mac. Click More Info. For OS X Mountain Lion, click System Report. MacBook Air 11 inch mi 2011, why why please

Informations matériel :
Nom du modèle:          MacBook Air
Identifiant du modèle:          MacBookAir4,2
Nom du processeur:          Intel Core i7
Vitesse du processeur:          1,8 GHz
Nombre de processeurs:          1
Nombre total de cœurs:          2
Cache de niveau 2 (par cœur):          256 Ko
Cache de niveau 3:          4 Mo
Mémoire:          4 Go
Version de la ROM de démarrage:          MBA41.0077.B0F
Version SMC (système):          1.73f66
Numéro de série (système):          C0*******JYC
UUID du matériel:          ****
<Edited By Host>

If I purchased my macbook air 13 inch 3 days ago, will I get the new ilife and new iwork for free?

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Read at the bottom http://www.apple.com/creativity-apps/mac/
* Pages, Numbers, and Keynote are free on the Mac App Store for qualifying Mac computers purchased on or after October 1, 2013. OS X Mavericks required. Downloading apps requires an Apple ID.
** GarageBand is free on the Mac App Store for all compatible Mac computers with OS X Mavericks. Additional GarageBand instruments and sounds are available with an in-app purchase. Downloading apps requires an Apple ID.

I am a student and i bought an macbook air about 1 month ago but i did not get the 100 giftcard from the apple store. can i still get it?

Hi, I am a student and i bought an macbook air about 1 month ago but i did not get the 100 giftcard from the apple store (that comes when students purchase computers).Am i still eligible to get it?

Not usually.
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My macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Should I buy a new Macbook Pro 13 inch or Macbook Air 13 inch?

Hi,
I was wondering if I should buy the new Macbook pro 13 inch, or keep my old 2010 1.4 C2D Macbook Air. I am not satisfied with the tiny 64GB SSD that my current Macbook Air has, because just a few weeks after I had done a clean reinstall of OSX Lion, the whole disk almost filled up. The one thing I do like about the Macbook Air, however is the speed of the SSD. Its really quick, and it boots in under 20 seconds. The Air didn't have many performance issues (other than overheating like crazy after playing a few graphics-intensive games).
If I were to buy a new Mac, my price range would be from $1200-$1500. I plan to use Garageband/iMovie frequently for making Youtube videos/school projects, and store a large music library. I also plan to do some moderate gaming and run Windows 7 in Bootcamp/Parallels. I don't plan to take it around much, but I don't want to have to weigh down my backpack in case I have to. My two options now would be the new Macbook Pro 13 inch or the new Macbook Air 13 inch. Could anyone give me a suggestion of which computer to buy?
Thanks!

I went through this same thing when I purchased my first Mac 3 days ago, also between the 13 inch MBA and MBP. I ended up deicding with the 13inch MBP, here's why:
1. More hard drive space, yes it may not be an SSD but more space is more space. I have also heard about people taking out the disc drive and adding an SSD in its place, so there would be an option.
2. The disc drive, I rarely do use it but just in case it's there and easier than carrying around an external.
3. Upgradability, I plan on keeping this Mac for a while because I spent so much on it. On a MBP I can upgrade the internal parts such as the hard drive and RAM. On a MBA everything is soldered together so what you buy is what you stick with.
4. Ethernet port, this is one that could be gotten around by an adapter but I still took it into consideration. Not everywhere has wifi yet including my work where every computer is hard wired.
5. Bootcamp, as well I plan to run Windows 7 on mine and Windows 7 takes a good amount of space so this is another spot where the larger hard drive of the MBP comes in handy. You could always have an external hard drive and run Windows 7 off of that on an Air but then you would have to have it always plugged in when you wanted to run Windows 7.
About me, I am a student so I had a lot to think about and read a lot of reviews online before I decided on my MBP but I am glad I decided on this over an Air. It may be a few pounds heavier also but in the long run for me I think the Pro will be better, I do plan on adding more RAM in the future as software becomes more memory intensive. With you're pricerange being 1200-1500 the 13inch MBP with the i7 processor may be one to look at. From Apple with their student discount, if you are one, you get $100 of plus a $100 giftcard. At BestBuy (where I got mine) the price of the i7 13inch MBP is 1,424.99 and if you're a student you get $100 off but no giftcard. I got the i5 13inch MBP because I don't need an i7.
In the end it all comes down to what works for you, but I hope I was able to help you some.

MacBook Pro 15-inch Early 2011 vs MacBook Air 13-inch 2013

Hello. I currently own a MacBook Pro 15-inch, early 2011 model. It has 8 GB of RAM, a quad-core, 2.3 GHz i7 processor, hi-res, anti-glare display, an AMD 6750m and Intel HD 3000. I bought it off of an Apple product store on Ebay about 3 and a half months ago. It was 1,350$. It was in perfect condition when I bought it, and it still is. I'm really into producing music, and I use Reason 6.5. I also do some other small things on my laptop, like word-processing, web-browsing and I bring it to school everyday. I was wandering if I should sell this laptop on Ebay, and buy a brand-new Macbook Air, 13-inch, 2013 model. The laptop is a little thick and heavy, and its battery-life is nothing compared to the MacBook Air. I really value battery-life I would probably upgrade the RAM to 8 gigs, and maybe upgrade the processor to 1.7 GHz, maybe upgrade the SSD to 256, but I might not. I was wandering if this would be a good idea. How much would I be able to sell this laptop for on Ebay? Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now? Screen real estate is something that matters a lot when using a music program, which is why I initially went for this laptop. Now, since the MacBook Air is smaller, I know that it displays just as much as this laptop does, so I don't think that the screen size would be that big of a problem. I am thinking about saving up for a 27-inch iMac, which would then be my primary machine, but if I were able to buy one, it wouldn't be for awhile. Anyways, Thanks to anybody who can help me!

Sky Sailing
Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now
Its stronger in alloy form factor, slim design with only ONE moving part, no HD to crash from mechanical failure of impact etc.
Ive got an Imac and current Air, and owned several Air, the air is the hands down choice for myself and I wouldnt part with it for any amount of money. Also own a couple macbook Pro, new and older one i rebuilt.
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.apple-tubes.com/apple-macbook-air-11-mid-2013-haswell-i5-vs-i7-compar ison/
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7
Macbook Air:
Only one moving part, ultrafast boot time SSD, the full power of laptop with the weight of an Ipad (close).
Air is the only Mac that has Haswell, 802ac wifi, and incredible 12hr. batt life in 13" I5. HOWEVER NOW the new Pro have 802ac wifi
Recommend buying the Air with 8gig Ram.
Pack around a regular laptop around about 20 days, then an Air, .....after that the standard laptops stays at home.
Only one moving part, the fan. No moving HD heads to crash or moving platters. Runs a LOT cooler than anything else out there (which = durability). Heater is a killer on a scale of 10X over that of accidents.
Also the AIR has far fewer parts to fail inside than a standard laptop. Really only a few replacement parts
The speakers on the Air, contrary to what most people would assume, are much louder than on the macbook Pro.
The Air in general is faster due to the SSD, also if you have a 802ac Router (i.e. Airport Extreme) then the Air over wifi is a LOT faster.
If youre going to be dragging a notebook around campus all the time, the Air makes things a lot more lovely.
The FINAL consideration of course is your application USE, and needs regarding same (see specs and video above)
The new Air, NOW with Mavericks is just 'king of the hill'. Nothing touches it

Macbook Pro 13 inch with Retina vs Macbook Air 13 inch

Hi everyone, I just have a few questions regarding the two Macbooks listed above, here is my situation:
I am going to be a Freshman in college next year and have decided to purchase my first Macbook. I am familiar with most Apple products but Macbooks are the one area I do not have experience in. I have done some research and have widdled my decision down to either the Air or the rMBP. I am looking at the entry level of these laptops, so both would be equipped with the regular 128gb SSD drives and the 1.8GHz and 2.5GHz proccessors. My budget would not be more than the cost of the rMBP, so upgrading to anything more than $1,399 is not really an option.
My uses:
Basic Word processing
Web surfing
Video streaming
Music and picture storage (nothing more than 10 gigs)
Video and Picture editing with the Adobe Suite (this is my biggest concern, how will both computers react to the software? Which would handle it better?)
Now I know everyone has seen posts like this before but the difference is with the recent update in pricing. Now that the rMBP is $1,499 (with a $100 discount for education it will be $1,399) is it a better deal? Is the performance and retina display worth an extra $200? I have read rumors that the retina display causes some slow down in operation for the rMBP.
Lastly, if I decided to purchase the Air, should I invest in the upgrade to the 256gb SSD or maybe purchase a cheaper USB 3.0 external hardrive?
Thank you for your time and consideration, it is really appreciated!
Cameron

Here's my take on that one.
Skip the 13 Inch Macbook Retina until it's been in refreshed a couple more times to get rid of the screen issues some people are having - I was one of the first ones that bought the 15 Inch Macbook Retina - after 2 months of use - got rid of it because of issues with Photoshop and Office - i'm sure an update was already released by Adobe and Microsoft to support Retina display by now.
In any event - the Macbook Air is a good idea - but instead of going with just the 256GB Flash Storage - why not do the 8GB of RAM and 256GB Flash Storage?
Or you can get the 13 Inch non Retina Macbook Pro so you can upgrade the RAM and Hard Drive at your own convenience.
in any event - best thing to do is go to your local Apple Store and compare the two and see what feels right for you.

Which laptop is best suitable for me? Macbook Air 11 inch, Macbook Air 13 inch, or Macbook Pro 13 inch?

I'm an 8th grader who does powerpoints, word documents, web browsing and light gaming, light movie editing on imovie, some ichat and some apps. Should I get a macbook air 11 inch 256gb and 8gb of ram, macbook air 13 inch 128gb and 8gb of ram or macbook pro 13 inch 8gb of ram 500gb hard drive?. Which one is most suitable for me? I need it to last 4-5 years.

Strictly speaking, the size of the screen has nothing to do with a decision to install Windows on any Mac. It should work with the base 13" MBP, even with just 4GB ram.
But it is more complex than to just "install windows"; first, you have to buy a copy of Windows. Any copies you have, even if on DVD, will not work (because the OS contains proprietary code based on the model and manufacturer of your Windows laptop.) Then you have to decide if you want a dual boot (meaning setting up another partition on the HD that holds only the Windows OS and files), or purchase Parallels, which you install as Apple software, then install windows "into" Parallels. If you use dual boot, you can only switch from one OS to the other by way of shutting down and re-booting. If you use Parallels, you can jump from one OS to the other just like switching to different programs in the Mac OS. Parallels runs under $40 these days, and MS Windows 7 Home Premium is ~$165 (both on Amazon).
There are often business or academic reasons to have Win7 on a Mac, but each person should seriously consider whether buying a Mac so that you can install Windows is a sound decision. I mean, why bother with the Mac? I first thought I would have to install Windows on my Mac, but found Mac versions of my critical programs, and learned how to use the many programs the Mac OS already provides to get the same, and often improved functionality over what I had with Windows.
I know you will have a tough decision to make about this. And you are spending a great deal of money for an 8th grader (and for a lot of other people too). It's important to weigh all the factors, decide on your choice, and then make the purchase without having any doubts about your decision. Have confidence in your purchase, and move forward from there.
One final note; I bought my first Mac machine only about 9 months ago. I've bought two more since then. And for each one, I bought the AppleCare warranty and have never regretted it. I won't know if I need it for repairs in a year or two, but just having an ability to call Apple at nearly any time, and have programs, functionality and OS behavior explained to me gives me real peace of mind. I may have to call AppleCare more than once to get a good answer, but in the end, the service has always come through for me. I suggest you consider this strongly.
I hope my lengthy replies have been helpful; you've got a great treat ahead of you once you make the purchase!

Which MacBook Air should I get?

Somebody wants to buy me a MacBook Air as a present because I will be doing volunteer work starting in January helping some disabled people learn to use Macs on Sundays.
I wonder which I should get.
Does anybody know the difference between these two models (see screenshot - it's Japanese, but you should get the gist of it). One has 256 SSD and one has 256 "Flash Storage." What's the difference? Is one just an older model?
Should I add a little extra and go for a Pro model?
This would be a "2nd computer" for me for travel and when out of the office. My main computer is my iMac.
Opinions welcome!
Thanks,
Doug

Apple MacBook Air 13-inch (Mid 2013) MD760 / MD761
http://alatest.com/reviews/laptop-reviews/apple-macbook-air-md760ll-a-13-3-inch- laptop-newest-version/po3-200839803,30/
http://www.aido.com/eshop/cl_2-c_278-pr_10856-p_112-i_11652/computers/laptops-an d-netbooks/apple-laptops/new-apple-macbook-air-13.3-inch-led-laptop-md232.html#. UrJTEvbe6Xw
Network:Wi-Fi wireless networking (based on 802.11n specification, 802.11a/b/g compatible)
http://www.kogan.com/au/buy/apple-macbook-air-13-13ghz-i5-256gb-md761/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMkrKnd70EE
You asked~~One has 256 SSD and one has 256 "Flash Storage."
Same thing, that just means the very same thing
Get the 2013 model much better
2013 differences:
2013 model has 802AC wifi, much faster
dual mics
cooler Haswell processor
longer battery life
id call Apple again to verify the models are the same, I dont speak Japanese, but from the pics, you can tell, because the 2012 dont have dual mics on the left side, 2013 does

Macbook Pro 13 inch or Macbook Air 13 inch?

Hi everyone, I have some doubts bugging me lately. Currently, I am having the Macbook White Unibody (2009 model) 2.26Ghz Core 2 Duo. I am going abroad for my studies soon. And it will talk me around 20-30 minutes for every trip, to or from my school accommodation and my campus. So I am thinking to upgrade to Macbook Pro, been saving for that. But the problem now is should I get the Macbook Pro 13 inch base model or Macbook Air 13 inch base model? My main use is listening to music, surfing the web, video chat with family and many paperworks to do (in pharmacy course). Portability is the main key as I have to travel a lot. So can I have some advice whether to go with MBP or MBA which can last me for another 3 years like the White I am having right now? Thank you so much for your help. I really do appreciate. Have a nice day

The 13" MacBook Pro isn't difficult to carry around. However, if you pick up the 13" Air, you'd be surprised how heavy the MacBook Pro seems in comparison. Keep in mind that you get a higher resolution display on the 13" Air as well (1440x900 on the Air vs. 1280x800 on the MacBook Pro). The two biggest downsides for the Air are the lack of an optical drive (this is becoming less and less of an issue for many... an external is always an options for those few times one may be needed) and the relatively low capacity of the SSD. I can happily manage with 128GB, so it's not an issue for me. If you have lots of media files or work on a number of projects that have large storage requirements, the SSD capacity may be limiting. An external HDD is always an option as well. I guess the issue is that you can basically get the svelte build of the Air and all the functionality of the Pro if you get an external optical and hard drive. Chances are, if you get an Air for it's portability, you're not going to want to carry around those extras. So it becomes a matter of how often do you think you'll need the external optical / hdd? If you don't think you'll ever need an external optical drive (or only on rare occasions), then you can probably get away with never carrying it around with you. The same goes for the external hard drive (if you should need one).

Macbook air 13 inch gets warm but fan doesn't turn on

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