Main and subvi question
Hi All,
I was wondering if there is any difference between the two codes I have attached. They are simple codes, but, I would like to understand main and subvi better. I saw this type of coding in one of the examples.
Notice the second example has a 'while' loop but the STOP=TRUE. This means that it runs only once everytime. But, why should you specifically have a while loop with a STOP=TRUE? How is it different from the first one? Is it just good programming? THanks!
V
I may not be perfect, but I'm all I got!
Attachments:
main_sub_1.JPG 41 KB
main_sub_2.JPG 47 KB
Also note that there is no delay in the main while loops. This will cause a high CPU usage for no good reason.
Use a "Wait(ms)" or "Wait Until Next ms Multiple" function to give the CPU time for other tasks.
steve
Help the forum when you get help. Click the "Solution?" icon on the reply that answers your
question. Give "Kudos" to replies that help.
Similar Messages
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hi guys, problem with grey screen and flashing question mark. should be straight forward affair but on top of it while in disc utility, i'm unable to verify, verify disc permission, repair or even erase disc0 which is obviously my main hd. any ideas where to go from here? tried to reinstall osx but no luck, stucked when asked to chose location to install osx. would really apreciate any kind of help with this cause i'm quite new mac user. ty
If you don't have a backup, read this:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-1689 -
Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions
Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check *
- Front Speaker Small
- Center Speaker Small
- Subwoofer Yes
- Surround Speaker Small
- S. Back (Preout) None
* Distance Check *
- Front Left 0.1 ft (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right 1.3 ft (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) " it should be "
- Center 14.7 ft (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer 16.3 ft (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left 8.0 ft (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right 8.7 ft (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check *
- Front Left + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center + 2.5 dB
- Front Right + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check *
- Front 60 Hz (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center 120 Hz (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround 150 Hz (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode: LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE: 120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left 15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right 15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation. -
I did the back up as instructed... Installed a larger hard drive and followed the restore instructions... Now I get a white screen with a folder icon and blinking question mark. When trying to set startup with new drive I get a bless tool error... Help!!
If you have installed a new hard drive , you will need to have formatted it in Disk Utility correctly. This may explain your problem.
Boot into your 10.6 Install disk again at the top menubar > Utilities > select Disk utility and in there select your new hard drive, and select the tab Erase and choose to make the format as Mac OS Extended Journaled. When that is finished look in the main window to make sure that the partition map scheme says GUID Partition Table.
Now go to the Restore tab and reinstall from your backup. -
Flash Security Settings and Random Questions not Displaying
Hey folks,
I created a Captivate 4 project with 3 slides and a question pool of about 70 questions in which I am randomly pulling in. I am using IE7 and Flash 10. Publishing in Flash 10. If I publish or view in Preview in a web browser the project launches, plays the first 3 slides, and then goes blank when the first question should appear. Note: previewing the project AND publishing the project as an .exe does launch and display all the questions correctly. It ends up being a flash security issue. I went to the adobe site and via the Adobe Flash Player Security Manager" I entered in the main .SWF captivate-generated file as a trusted file and then re-ran the published captivate project and it ran correctly. Question is ... what do I need to do to set up flash or my project so I don't have to do this for every new project that I deploy? I don't want to have the users have to go in and add whatever I deploy as a trusted file. It's also a little confusing as to why the first three slides played and it stopped at the questions ... seems like if it's not a trusted file, that it wouldn't run at all.
Thanks for any help!
ChrisHello again
I think I'd be investigating a temporary web server to host on until things are ready. Here's where it will help.
By providing files to the end users, if you are copying files over you end up having to explain how to save the files. You then have to walk them through setting the Flash Security so they can properly view. It all just becomes a pain in the kazoo.
If you can find some server space, you simply upload the content and provide a link for the users to view the content.
Other than that, if you are insistent that copying is the way to fly, I might suggest you establish a known location where you want everyone to copy their files. Perhaps C:\TestFolder. Then provide some instruction on how to configure the folder with the relaxed Flash Security. From there forward, anything they copy to the folder should need no security adjustment.
Cheers... Rick
Helpful and Handy Links
Captivate Wish Form/Bug Reporting Form
Adobe Certified Captivate Training
SorcerStone Blog
Captivate eBooks -
My Apple Macbook 13.3" Laptop-Black 2008 2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo will not boot up and instead I get a grey screen with a folder and a question mark over it. I've tried Option key, and Control S keys and it still will not boop up. Can anyone help?
If you are running Snow Leopard:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
If you are running Lion or later:
Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks without erasing drive
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Mountain Lion or Mavericks
OS X Mavericks- Reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Reinstall Mac OS X
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet
if possible because it isthree times faster than wireless. -
Import of Main and Lookup table in a single Map
Hey Guys,
I am developing a Proof of Concept to Import Main and Lookup-Flat in a single Import Map (by using a single excel file).
Below is my Table structure:
Main Table: Customer
--->Customer_Number (Text,Unique Field, Display Field)
--->Sales_Area (Lookup Flat)
Lookup Table: Sales_Area
Sales_Area_ID (Text,Unique Field,Display Field)
Sales_Area_Desc (Text,Display Field).
The import File (excel) has below attributes:
Customer_Number,Sales_Area_ID,Sales_Area_Desc.
When i start both Main Table and Lookup tables are empty (there is no data in Data Manager for either of the tables)
Now in the Import Map, i selected source as the excel file and target as the Main table.
I did mapping of Customer_Number as usual after that I created a compound field for Sales_Area_ID+ Sales_Area_Desc and did the mapping of this compound field. then did the mapping for Sales_Area_ID and Sales_Area_Desc.
Now since there is no data in lookup table, i select the "Add" button in the "Value Mapping" section. when i execute this map, it works perfectly and data is loaded in both the Main table and lookup table but if a new value comes in the excel(a value which does not yet exist in lookup table), the map fails, when i open it , it says that i need to redo the Value Mapping, again i click on "Add" button and it starts working. So basically the Import Map fails whenever i get a value in excel which does not yet exist in Lookup table.
Now my question is, is there a way to automate my import map, i thought clicking on "Add" button will take care of all the lookup values which are not already present.
Can anyone please help me in this regard.
Thanks
SaifHi Saif,
You can try the following option.
Right click on the lookup filed/compound filed in destination fields, and select the option 'SET MDIS Unmapped Value Handling' as 'ADD'.
Cheers,
Cherry. -
What does it mean when you computer crashes and when you turn it back on it shows you a blank blue screen with a little folder and a question mark in the middle? It's a old imac from 1997.
I don't have original discs that it came with.
Then you still can use the second option with the keyboard combo I posted, called "resetting the PRAM."
Also when you way hold the c key down do you mean turn computer off and turn back on holding the c key?
Yes, or you can simply restart. As you don't have the CDs, this isn't on the plate any more.
The internal backup battery is not expensive and, in most iMacs is user-replacable. If yours has a tray-loading optical drive like this one:
it takes a major teardown to replace the internal battery. If this is the case, you'd be better off to leave the computer plugged in all the time; that eliminates the main reason for having a working battery.
If it has a slot-loading optical drive like this one:
things are much easier. The battery is visible through the RAM access door on the bottom of the computer case. The manual:
http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/iMacG3_2000UserManual.PDF
has sketches of how to access the RAM and therefore the backup battery. Unfortunately, the pdf on the manual goes up sideways on-screen and the RAM instructions are pretty deep into the manual. It's probably easier to scroll (for a while) to the section on adding RAM and print the applicable pages.
When you work on the battery, some sort of non-conductive pliers or large tweezer or forceps help unless you have tiny fingers. Make sure to note the polarity of the old battery and install the new one in the same orientation.
The battery itself is readily available. If price is no oblect, you can get it for a small rasom from Radio Shack Store ("Tandy" outside the US) as part number 23-026.
Online, they are dirt-cheap even after adding shipping. I buy backup batteries form this outfit:
3.6v Newer Technology Lithium 1/2 AA PRAM Computer Clock Battery -
My MacBook has a grey screen with a folder and a question mark in the middle what does this mean?
My MacBook has a grey screen with a folder and a question mark in the middle what does this mean?
It means a valid system cannot be found. You need to reinstall OS X.
If you have Snow Leopard:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
If you have Lion or later:
Reinstall Lion, Mountain Lion, or Mavericks without erasing drive
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported then click on the Repair Permissions button. When the process is completed, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Mountain Lion or Mavericks
OS X Mavericks- Reinstall OS X
OS X Mountain Lion- Reinstall OS X
OS X Lion- Reinstall Mac OS X
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet
if possible because it is three times faster than wireless. -
Oca questions and dumps questions
Hi
OCA questions and dumps questions
ThanksIt is against the policies of Oracle Certification to provide brain dumps to Oracle exams.
If on the other hand, you want test prep advice, you can find the details on Oracle Education main site under certifications. -
I have what is hopefully a quick and easy question. I kno...
I have what is hopefully a quick and easy question. I know almost nothing about this stuff so go easy on me . All I need to do is find out if my DHCP is enabled. I'm having problems with my Xbox 360 and one of the possible problems is this DHCP thing. However I have no idea how to find the settings for my router on my computer. If it helps I have a Wirless model BEFW11S4. Thanks in advance for any help.
You need to access your router to check if the DHCP is on. To access the router open your browser and type in http://192.168.1.1 into the address field and hit enter. That should open the routers log on screen and by default the user is left blank (some routers it is admin) and the password is abmin. If you changed your routers password as you should for security reasons then use that password. That will bring you to your routers user interface and on the main set up page should be your DHCP.
Richard Aichner (Ikester) -
Hello All,
I am working with the following example (from previous postings on this
board) that demonstrates how to run a sub vi in parallel with the main
vi. I'd like to pass parameters between the main and sub such as
the control (delay) and indicator (value) parameters of my subvi
example. Does any one know how to do this? Parallel
execution is important for me, I cannot just paste the subvi icon into
my main diagram (two nested while loops...)
Many thanks,
Luis
Message Edited by cascao on 08-16-2005 08:42 PM
Message Edited by cascao on 08-16-2005 08:42 PM
Attachments:
VI_Server_technique.vi 32 KB
SubVI_1.vi 19 KBcascao wrote:
Hello All,
I am working with the following example (from previous postings on this
board) that demonstrates how to run a sub vi in parallel with the main
vi. I'd like to pass parameters between the main and sub such as
the control (delay) and indicator (value) parameters of my subvi
example. Does any one know how to do this? Parallel
execution is important for me, I cannot just paste the subvi icon into
my main diagram (two nested while loops...)
Many thanks,
Luis
Luis, you can use the VI Server methods 'Set Control Value' and 'Get Control Value', as demonstrated in the attached examples.
-Franz
Attachments:
VI Server.zip 26 KB -
Extending airport network - Express as Base/Main and Extreme as client
Hi,
I have looked around on these forums and can't find the answer to these questions, so apologies if they have been asked and answered elsewhere.
I have an Airport Express 802.11n which I want to plug in to my cable modem as the base station. I have a Windows PC and network storage drive (ethernet cable connection only) in the other room that I want to join to my network (and can't move the NAS for various reasons).
I am considering purchasing a dual band Airport Extreme 802.11n Gigabit router to put into the second room to allow the NAS to be shared with the PC (NAS and PC connected via Ethernet cable to the Extreme) and a laptop connected over Wifi.
I believe I may be able to use the Extreme to extend the wireless network (is this correct? - do I have to hit control in the Airport Utility to get the Extend option?), but am not sure if this will disable the Ethernet ports on the Extreme. Are the Ethernet ports still enabled if the Extreme is in 'extend' mode? (I have downloaded the PDF of the Extreme manual and it doesn't mention this). If so I will need to configure the Express as a WDS Main and the Extreme as a WDS remote(?) - but I believe I will lose bandwidth doing this - correct? In either of these configurations will I still be able to use the Express to stream music to my hifi in room 1?Welcome to the discussions!
If you configure your AirPort Express(n) (AX) to "Allow this network to be extended", the AirPort Extreme (AEBS) can be configured to "Extend a wireless network" from the AX.
There is some bandwidth loss in this type of configuration, about 10-15%, but far less than an WDS configuration which will result in a 50% loss of bandwidth. The AEBS will need to be positioned in an area that receives a good wireless signal from the AX
The ethernet ports on the AEBS will be active in the "extend" configuration.
Since the AX creates a single wireless network, you will be losing some features on the AEBS, namely its ability to create dual band networks and a guest network. In the type of configuration you propose, the AEBS would only act as an extending device for the AX and provide 3 ethernet ports for devices.
I'm confused by your question on streaming AirTunes to your stereo with the AirPort Express. If your AX is connected to the modem, the stereo connects to the audio port on the AX, so the stereo will need to be close to the AX.
If you need to stream AirTunes to a remote location, it would make more sense to use a 2nd AX and configure it to "extend a wireless network". Then you could connect your stereo to the 2nd AX. If you need more than 1 ethernet port, you could add a simple ethernet switch to the 2nd AX. -
Account with an icon of a face and a question mark
Same issue of other user in Yosemite Apple Support.
Following advises on that thread I also installed the ETRECHECK software tool, report is as follows:
Problem description:
At the login screen I find an icon with a face and a question mark in it - with a message it needs an update.
EtreCheck version: 2.1.5 (108)
Report generated 02 gennaio 2015 12:37:26 CET
Click the [Support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Details] links for more information about that line.
Click the [Adware] links for help removing adware.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro9,2
1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
16 GB RAM Upgradeable
BANK 0/DIMM0
8 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
BANK 1/DIMM0
8 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
Intel HD Graphics 4000
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
OS X 10.10.1 (14B25) - Uptime: 1:22:54
Disk Information: ℹ️
APPLE HDD HTS545050A7E362 disk0 : (500,11 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
Macintosh HD (disk1) / : 498.89 GB (467.03 GB free)
Encrypted AES-XTS Unlocked
Core Storage: disk0s2 499.25 GB Online
MATSHITADVD-R UJ-8A8
USB Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
Mac App Store and identified developers
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
iTunesHelper Applicazione (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
Dropbox ApplicazioneHidden (/Applications/Dropbox.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.235 - SDK 10.6 [Support]
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
Safari Extensions: ℹ️
Pin It Button [Installed]
Save to Pocket [Installed]
Add To Amazon Wish List [Installed]
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
Flash Player [Support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
14% WindowServer
3% hidd
2% Safari
1% Dock
0% fontd
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
333 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
155 MB mds_stores
137 MB Safari
137 MB Finder
86 MB Dropbox
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
7.76 GB Free RAM
4.88 GB Active RAM
3.28 GB Inactive RAM
1.26 GB Wired RAM
4.73 GB Page-ins
0 B Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
Jan 2, 2015, 11:15:06 AM Self test - passed
Jan 2, 2015, 12:06:57 AM /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/Dropbox109_2015-01-02-000657_[redacted].cpu_res ource.diag [Details]
---------- is there any troubleshooting for delete that fake account every time I start my Macbook Pro?
thanks and regards
EdoardoSmiley face with a ? means a bootable system is not found.
There maybe a problem with either system software or hard drive itself.
Try this.
Repair Disk
Steps 2 through 8
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH5836
Best. -
Performance issue and functional question regarding updates on tables
A person at my site wrote some code to update a custom field on the MARC table that was being copied from the MARA table. Here is what I would have expected to see as the code. Assume that both sets of code have a parameter called p_werks which is the plant in question.
data : commit_count type i.
select matnr zfield from mara into (wa_marc-matnr, wa_marc-zfield).
update marc set zfield = wa_marc-zfield
where werks = p_werks and matnr = wa_matnr.
commit work and wait.
endselect.
I would have committed every 200 rows instead of every one row, but here's the actual code and my question isn't around the commits but something else. In this case an internal table was built with two elements - MATNR and WERKS - could have done that above too, but that's not my question.
DO.
" Lock the record that needs to be update with material creation date
CALL FUNCTION 'ENQUEUE_EMMARCS'
EXPORTING
mode_marc = 'S'
mandt = sy-mandt
matnr = wa_marc-matnr
werks = wa_marc-werks
EXCEPTIONS
foreign_lock = 1
system_failure = 2
OTHERS = 3.
IF sy-subrc <> 0.
" Wait, if the records not able to perform as lock
CALL FUNCTION 'RZL_SLEEP'.
ELSE.
EXIT.
ENDIF.
ENDDO.
" Update the record in the table MARC with material creation date
UPDATE marc SET zzdate = wa_mara-zzdate
WHERE matnr = wa_mara-matnr AND
werks = wa_marc-werks. " IN s_werks.
IF sy-subrc EQ 0.
" Save record in the database table MARC
CALL FUNCTION 'BAPI_TRANSACTION_COMMIT'
EXPORTING
wait = 'X'
IMPORTING
return = wa_return.
wa_log-matnr = wa_marc-matnr.
wa_log-werks = wa_marc-werks.
wa_log-type = 'S'.
" text-010 - 'Material creation date has updated'.
wa_log-message = text-010.
wa_log-zzdate = wa_mara-zzdate.
APPEND wa_log TO tb_log.
CLEAR: wa_return,wa_log.
ELSE.
" Roll back the record(un save), if there is any issue occurs
CALL FUNCTION 'BAPI_TRANSACTION_ROLLBACK'
IMPORTING
return = wa_return.
wa_log-matnr = wa_marc-matnr.
wa_log-werks = wa_marc-werks.
wa_log-type = 'E'.
" 'Material creation date does not updated'.
wa_log-message = text-011.
wa_log-zzdate = wa_mara-zzdate..
APPEND wa_log TO tb_log.
CLEAR: wa_return, wa_log.
ENDIF.
" Unlock the record from data base
CALL FUNCTION 'DEQUEUE_EMMARCS'
EXPORTING
mode_marc = 'S'
mandt = sy-mandt
matnr = wa_marc-matnr
werks = wa_marc-werks.
ENDIF.
Here's the question - why did this person enqueue and dequeue explicit locks like this ? They claimed it was to prevent issues - what issues ??? Is there something special about updating tables that we don't know about ? We've actually seen it where the system runs out of these ENQUEUE locks.
Before you all go off the deep end and ask why not just do the update, keep in mind that you don't want to update a million + rows and then do a commit either - that locks up the entire table!The ENQUEUE lock insure that another program called by another user will not update the data at the same time, so preventing database coherence to be lost. In fact, another user on a SAP correct transaction, has read the record and locked it, so when it will be updated your modifications will be lost, also you could override modifications made by another user in another luw.
You cannot use a COMMIT WORK in a SELECT - ENDSELECT, because COMMIT WORK will close each and every opened database cursor, so your first idea would dump after the first update. (so the internal table is mandatory)
Go through some documentation like [Updates in the R/3 System (BC-CST-UP)|http://help.sap.com/printdocu/core/Print46c/en/data/pdf/BCCSTUP/BCCSTUP_PT.pdf]
Regards
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