Mark III extreme manual white balance.

I recently photographed a concert which had nothing but purple lighting. I set my Canon 5D MkIII to a manual white balance. To my surprise, the camera was able to properly balance the color and my whites appeared white. I loaded the images into lightroom and the preview showed a properly balanced photo. As soon as the photo was finished loading, the color snapped to what would look like an auto white balance. (my whites were now purple like the lights). In any other application, the white balance is spot on. In light room, the color is extremely purple.
Import settings are set at the default, no actions are taken upon import. (develop settings are set to "none")
here is a one minute video of exactly what is happening to me:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151406642951705&comment_id=270254886&offset=0&total _comments=50&notif_t=video_comment
What I believe is happening (theory based on the maxed out sliders) is that the camera's white balance range has exceeded the capabilities of lightrooms white balance rang
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Joe93452444,
Are you shooting JPG or Raw?
Raw images don't have a WB setting in the Raw data. When shooting Raw the WB setting that you select in the camera is only a metadata tag.
This WB tag is initially read by Lr but Lr then evaluates the image and applies its own WB setting. Thus the Wb in Lr can be different than what you see in camera.
You can change the WB in Lr in three ways:
a) by selecting a different camera profile (in Develop Module / Camera Calibration / Profile (when you change the profile the WB sliders in the Basic panel do n't change but the image data is interpreted differently);
b) by using the sliders in Develop Module / Camera Calibration - and using the option of "saving" the settings as a preset for similar shots;
c) by using the WB and Tint sliders in Develop Module / basic panel.

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Manual white balance

How do I manually white balance my three Sony HDR-HC1 hidef (consumer) video cameras in a dark theater? I produce DVDs of ballets for a local ballet company and I have trouble with color disparities between different camera angles when I am editing the three angles. The closest camera always has the best color and the furthest camera always looks yellow.
I have read about using manual white balance prior to the performance (I have always left the white balance setting on "Auto".) Is it as easy as holding a white object in front of the camera on stage then using the manual white balance? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Brock Fisher
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Is it as easy as holding a white object in front of the camera on stage then using the manual white balance? Any tips would be appreciated.
Yes. But you have a dilemma in that third camera. Incandescent light disperses over distance and you'll see the yellow cast you're seeing.
Best bet: get a big sheet or something else white and use THAT to white balance the cameras IN THEIR SHOOTING POSITIONS. Then that yellowish blob you're seeing from the back will be seen as white by the camera. Obviously you can't run out with a big bedsheet just before a performance, so do it during the setup phase. If your cameras will not hold that balance when shut down, keep them powered up.

Iphoto not recognizing my preset manual white balance setting on my Nikon D3100

hi there.
i've been using iPhoto to edit my photos uploaded as RAW, from my Nikon D3100. While i've been very satisfied with the results, i've run across a small problem. i've used various white balance settings on my camera: incandescent, flourescent, auto white balance, and recently started using the manual white balance. when uploading pictures to iphoto, the photo has indicated what white balance setting i have used, except when i use my manual white balance feature, the information shows up as AWB (automatic white balance).
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I think this article will help explain this
and this one from Adobe
— Raw files have not had while balance set. They are tagged with whatever the camera's setting was, (either that which was manually set or via auto-white-balance), but the actual data has not been changed. This allows one to set any colour temperature and white balance one wishes after the fact with no image degradation. It should be understood that once the file has been converted from the linear space and has had a gamma curve applied (such as in a JPG) white balance can no longer be properly done.
So the displaed WB is simply a tag and has no effect on the image - it is simply information about the camera settings
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Hi Tycomps!
If a US model lens is purchased as new from a Canon authorized dealer in the USA, a one year warranty card will be included with the lens. A warranty card is included with all new products sold by authorized dealers. Here is the link to the list of authorized dealers: http://www.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/dealer/CanonAuthorizedDealers.pdf.
We hope this information helps you out!

Canon 5D Mark III - underexposes

Hello,
I've noticed that my Canon 5D Mark III underexposes somewhere between 2/3 stops and one stop.
I've taken a test photo and I've attached the histogram and the exif. I photographed a white sheet of paper
Is this behaviour normal or is there a problem in the camera's metering system?
Thanks,
Catalin
Histogram
Test photo
I have also attached the full exif:
[Image]
Make = Canon
Model = Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
Date Time = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Artist = Catalin Fuioaga
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Copyright = Catalin Fuioaga
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 360
GPS Info IFD Pointer = Offset: 9554
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
8830 = 2
8832 = 2000
Exif Version = 30, 32, 33, 30
Date Time Original = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Date Time Digitized = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 7.63 TV
Aperture Value = 5 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm
Maker Note = 8152 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time =
Subsec Time Original =
Subsec Time Digitized =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2880
Exif Image Height = 1920
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 9326
Focal Plane X Resolution = 1971.253
Focal Plane Y Resolution = 1975.309
Focal Plane Resolution Unit = inch
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Scene Capture Type = Normal
A430 =
A431 = 073024017512
A432 = 24/1, 105/1, 0/1, 0/1
A434 = EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM
A435 = 00001bcf3a
[GPS]
GPS Version ID = 2, 3, 0, 0
[Interoperability]
Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0
[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 11444
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 3320
[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 160 x 120

"....Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm..."
You are in partial metering mode, which is fine if you are shooting a plain white piece of paper. However most of the time I'd recommend either Evaluative instead, or if you are more accustomed to it, Center Weighted. Or use Spot Metering in some cases. Partial is sort of like a "Large Spot Metering" mode.
Evaluative has the advantage of putting extra emphasis on the area right around the active AF point, i.e. presumably around your subject. The rest of the image area is considered, too, but more weight is given to the active AF point. Center Weighted metering doesn't do this (it's sort of an "old fashioned" method of metering, but some people are accustomed to it from using older cameras.)
Do a Google search on Expose To The Right (ETTR), which is a common technique used by Canon shooters. Like hsbn mentioned above, I think Canon is a bit conservative about their metering, erring a little toward underexposure to "protect the highlights". This was a good practice back in the days of slide film, but is just the opposite of what you want to do with digital. To minimize noise in images, it's better to slightly overexpose and pull the exposure back down a little in post processing. Not a lot... just +1/3 to +2/3 stop. Here is a link to one of the better descriptions of ETTR I've seen. There are other tutorials and discussions about it other places online, so do a search if you wish.
Oh, and there was an exposure issue with the 5D III early on. The problem was a light leak near the top LCD, that would cause underexposure from additional light reaching the metering array in the viewfinder. Canon did a recall made some changes to fix the problem. Yours would have to be a very early production camera that was never fixed under the recall, to have this problem. The problem would vary, depending upon how strong light was striking the top of the camera whle shooting. Outside on a bright sunny day would cause more error than shooting indoors in low light.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Aperture 3.1 - White Balance Doesn't Update

Since upgrading to 3.1 I have noticed a somewhat annoying behavior with the White Balance data.
When I change from one selected image in a project to another image the White Balance data does not update.
If I deselect so no image is displayed and then select the new image, the data does update.
This only happens with images on which I have not made a manual White Balance adjustment. If I have made an adjustment then the data displays correctly on the adjusted image when it is selected. However, then selecting an unadjusted image causes a reversion to the 'incorrect' behavior.
Note that the image appearance does not change, so the actual image is not affected by this, only the display of the data.
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Hello All, I am by professional standards a beginner videographer of about 5 years experience. I have seen lots of advice around saying set your white balance for this or that lighting. I film a lot of theatre shows with lots of vivid colour, when I used auto white balance the colours were always wrong different shades ETC so I bought a grey card and set my white balance using this and the colours now look very similar to what I am filming. My question is why would you change your white balance according to lighting ? surely once it is set correctly you want it to accurately reflect what the camera is seeing.

I seldom have the opportunity to do a manual white balance at stage shows, because when I arrive to set up cameras, the house lights are on and the curtain closed and I have no access to the "actual show lighting" until the show is going. So I just use the "Incandescent" setting on all cameras and that has worked well for me. Lighting can and will change throughout the show also, so at least if all cameras are set the same, the color is consistent and I can make tweaks when editing.
Of course, when I have the opportunity I will always go for the manual white balance (or preset that looks good) for best results.
Different light sources (sunlight, overcast, incandescent, flourescent, etc.) all have different color "temperatures". Some are warmer (redder), some are cooler (more blue), and so forth. I vaguely remember some of this from sixtth-grade science class, with "kelvin" numbers and such. The human eye compensates for this automatically and always see white objects as white, and other colors then follow suit. Video cameras are not so good at this - AWB attempts it, but doesn't always get it right. That is why the presets and manual option, to TELL the camera, THIS IS WHITE. Once it is calibrated to what "white" is, then all the colors look correct under that particular light source.
To a degree, footage shot with the wrong WB can be corrected during editing, but often it can be so far out of whack that it never looks quite right. There is no substitute for getting it right when shooting! If someone looks like a blueberry or a sun-burned Martian on tape, good luck getting a nice skin tone in post....
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Quick Help Please!!!!... White balance 6 HD Cameras

Hey guys/gals (I only have 2 hours before I ship out)... I have an important gig tonight shooting a live event. I have 6 cameras all at different distances to the stage. The stage is reasonable and evenly lit. How should I white balance all of these cameras (Sony FX-1s and Z1Us)?
I want to use the manual White Balance in the cameras so they all have the same color temperature instead of 'auto' mode? What I realized today (which I hope I'm wrong) is that I'll have these cameras set up at different distances, they will all have to zoom in at different focal lengths (which effects the f-stops as well) to reach the White Card on the stage for the Manual White Balance. Should I White Balance the cameras this way? Will all the cameras have a slightly different White Blance due to the different Focal length?
Or should I place all of them in the same spot in front of the stage, go Wide (or tight), and then White Balance all of the cameras at the same focal length and angle?
2 cameras will have a tight shot all night, 2 cameras will be a tight to medium shot and the last 2 will be medium to wide.
Sorry if I'm overreacting (slap me if so please), it's an important gig to me and the first time I did this gig over a year ago I had to do a big of color correction depending on the shot/camera.
Thanks for your time.
-Monty
P.S. - I have a set of Warm Cards and a huge white posterboard for the White Balance and the stage is all Tungsten Lighting... basically a crapload of floodlights... theatre setting, no spotlights.

Good on ya for taking the time to learn to do this beforehand but I may have done some testing first.
TheMonty wrote:
Will all the cameras have a slightly different White Blance due to the different Focal length?
Probably not although you'll have a flare imbalance between the cameras due to the different focal lengths. No two cameras, not even the same model, will ever white balance exactly like the other, there will always be minute differences. You will also want to black balance all your cameras as well.
However, white/black balance is a small part of the imaging pie. In reality you'd really want to chart these cameras with a [DSC Labs Chrome do Monde|http://www.dsclabs.com/chromadumonde.htm] as a simple white balance will not address differences in flare/gamma balance, or inequities in the white clipper channels. When you chart a camera you null out all the variances in the r,g,b channels which creates a better white balance over all.
The color section of the Chrome du Monde helps match the color matrices of your video cameras, something else a simple white/black balance will not do.
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White Balance Effect

CS6 Production Premium Suite
Win7x64
Nvidia GForce GTX 470
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Custom white balance looks bad/off when set on the 5d Mark iii

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The Lightroom Manual is Not Clear on Options for the White-Balance Tool

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Specify a neutral area in the photo
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100% white.
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Displays a close-up view and the RGB values of a sampling of pixels under the White Balance Selector.
Zooms the close-up view in the Loupe...."
Item 3 is unclear. I selected the white balance selector, and moved it to an area as instructed,
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It should be directly underneath the image preview - press the T key if it's not there.

Manual Exposure and White balance control?

What Webcams provide the ability to manually set the Exposure and White balance?
I know the nx pro ultra does, but I am having trouble connecting to it from my Java application.
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What Webcams provide the ability to manually set the Exposure and White balance?
I know the nx pro ultra does, but I am having trouble connecting to it from my Java application.
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Custom white balance from Canon 5D Mark 3 erased from RAW files when developed in Lightroom 4.2?

Hi Everybody!
Got a bit of a problem...I set custom white balance for a lot of my photos (I'm a nightclub photographer) as sometimes the colours are so saturated the image becomes unusable. Unfortunately in Lightroom 4 the photos import with the correct WB I have set but when I click on them to develop the settings are changed and the image looks completely awful. I try and adjust the image back to the way I have taken it but it never looks the same....why is Lighroom not recognising the WB settings I set within my 5D?
Any pointers?
Cheers!
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All Raw images can be expected to change appearance significantly after the initial display of the in-camera embedded JPG preview, has been replaced with a true LR-generated conversion preview.
This is because all in-camera image settings and processing options (except WB) are disregarded by Lightroom. Lightroom just works to its own processing default, and this is in your control to get as you want it.
Even the in-camera WB, is only used provided LR is set to "as-shot" WB at the top of the Basic panel. If LR's default gets changed to a fixed WB of some kind, then that is what every image will show initially thereafter.
Even with the right WB transferred and used, first LR renditions can still look very different than the camera rendition; two people picking up the same violin might make very different noises with it. One of the biggest effects for that, is when proprietary in-camera "dynamic range boost" (or however else named) functions have been used. These work by deliberate underexposure of the basic capture, and Adobe software tends not to then apply the right corrective for that.
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Camera Raw Camera Calibration Tab and 5D Mark III

I don't think that many people do this in camera raw, but it was kind of an important step in my workflow with the Canon 7D before and is just not working the same way with the 5D Mark III now.
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Sorry for my bad english

Yes, white balance is another possible reason for mismatch
These rules apply:
- if you use white balance "as shot", then white balance in ACR will be the same as from camera or DPP (in a sense - what is white color in ACR will be white in DPP also). However, color temperature/tint shown in ACR will be probably slightly different than value recorded in exif of jpeg or raw file. It's because in that case, whitebalancing is performed using some metadata in raw file by both ACR or DPP, while temperature displayed in ACR is calculated from that metadat using color matrices in selected profile, according to a formula from one book (as documented in dng sdk), while DPP is probably using some other formula or slightly different color matrices
- the same will happen if you use WB dropper on exactly the same position in the photo by both ACR and DPP
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5D Mark III Video Problem -- Help Needed!

Hello,
Been using my 5D Mark III for video for about a month now. I noticed a problem occurring in the middle of certain shots where the color seems to shift. The problem is so slight that it will take full screen, full HD and a high level of concentration to detect. I believe the most obvious occurence is at 28 seconds where the valley below suddenly takes on a different color. Here is a video of my issue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw9IHYkUEqQ
I run these settings:
Manual Focus
Aperture, ISO: Manually set
Shutter Speed: 1/50
1920x1080 ALL-I 24p
Picture Style: Faithful
Custom White Balance
Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF
Highlight Tone Priority: OFF
High ISO Speed NR: OFF
I tried to see if these were detectible on the LCD screen on the camera, but to the naked eye they are not. The original .MOV files that were transferred from the camera show them.
Could it possibly be the Chromatic Aberration or Peripheral Illumination Correction? I have not disabled these, and they are the only automatic settings that I can think of that would be changing mid-shot.
I believe ISO was set to 100 for these shots.
Any ideas what might be causing this? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Max
Solved!
Go to Solution.

This looks completely normal. I don't see a problem.
Be aware that our atmosphere has diffractive properties just like a lens. When the sun is at or near the horizon it's going to bend light differently depending on the wavelength (i.e. color) of that light. Colors in the atmosphere and on the ground (since the only way it gets to the ground is to go through the atmosphere) will vary depending on where you point the camera and the position of the sun. As the sun rises it wont take such a angled path through the atmosphere and this effect is greatly diminished.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Mark III extreme manual white balance.

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