Master Images Unavailable for Some Photos

I have permanently deleted some photos that either I've done edits on and prefer the edits, or just poor photos. However, I've now ended up in a situation where when I publish an album to MobileMe or AppleTV, Aperture seems to want to access these deleted masters. I didn't like them, hence the deletion, how can I find what it is that is referencing the deleted masters?

Manage Referenced Files Option allowed me to find which preview Aperture could not find the master for. I had not appreciated that the default view in Aperture shows you unrated or better photos, which means photos you mark as rating 9 or X are not shown - so when you copy/move photos around you do it without touching the 9 or X photos. In reorganising photos I managed to delete masters because of this view setting but still have versions derived from them.

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Turning off "Ken Burns" effect for SOME photos

I see that someone has asked a similar question in the past and told that it's not possible to turn off the Ken Burns effect for some photos, but I'm hoping someone has a workaround or there's a hack...
I've made a slideshow and got the idea to "tell the story" by creating some "title" images in Photoshop elements which I've placed in between a series of photos.
These are just black backgrounds with the title (e.g. "...and the party begins", "Family reunion" etc.) in big white letters. I'm very happy with that idea
I like the Ken Burns effect for the slideshow as it adds some semi-video "action" effect, but NOT on the titles. Having the Ken Burns effect there just looks stupid, so I would like to remove it for the titles alone.
I know I can do it the other way round (go to "Settings" for the Slideshow, deselect "Automatic Ken Burns effect", then manually add the effect for all the photos I want), but with a slideshow album that's going to take ages to do!!
Is there a better way?

Perhaps you're checking the KB button on the "main" menu for the slideshow. That actually changes only the setting for the image that is currently selected. Try using the "Settings" button and deselect the "Automatic KB effect."
John

Contact sheet caption missing for some photos

I made a contact sheet from a selection of photos and for some reason, the one metadata field I selected to output with each image, the IPTC caption field, is included in some but not all photos: the specific photo I wanted did not have the caption output. (It is a JPG file.)
The caption is rather long (27 lines, 517 characters), but that should not be a problem.
Any ideas why some image's caption field is not coming out on the contact sheet?
Regards,
Strathglass

No one have any idea why captions for some photos do NOT appear on my contact sheets?
Regards, Strathglass.

Can't Use Batch Rename "Rename In Same Folder" for some photos

Have a strange problem: when using "Batch Rename…" under the "Tools" menu, "Rename In Same Folder" is unusable for some photos taken with some cameras, not for others. For one example, I shift-selected a range of photos taken at a recent vacation, some with my iPhone, some with my girlfriend's Canon PowerShot SD450. Bridge renamed the iPhone photos, but not Canon photos. For another example, if I select a single photo taken by her cell phone or Canon camera, "Rename In Same Folder" is grayed-out; if I select a single photo taken my by iPhone, not so. Does anyone understand this behavior, and is there a solution?

Bridge Support Center in the help menu leads to a 404 error page.
Sadly enough this is also on my system (Mac OSX 10.6.8) It should not be showing 404 but it is there...
What Bridge help files and links, forums, communities, google searches do not do is tell you how to fix what happens with the problem
In general restarting Bridge holding down option key (in your case alt key) to choose reset preferences solves most problems.
Here is a page from Adobe Support about Troubleshooting (although this states you should combine option/alt with cmd/ctrl but that is not needed)
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/317/317912.html
I want to use Bridge batch rename to change jpegs into Mac PC compatible jpegs.
Although I have the option for compatibility with Unix and Windows checked in my customized presets I'm not really aware of the need for that. If you have a .JPG or .jpg extension as the extension a Mac reeds and opens the file without problems. I am aware that as a Mac user I had the need to take care of Windows files in the past. Before OSX a Mac did not need an extension to recognize and open a file. Since OSX is Unix based the need to use an extension is there and also you should only use one dot (.) in the filename and that is before the extension at the end of the filename. Using spaces, commas etc is possible but not prefered. In basic, keep it simple (and short) and the file will open on all systems without problems.
When you select a preset, the rename and preview buttons grey out. So I start all over...clear cache, check file permissions, restart/shutdown, etc
That should not happen, presets and batch rename should be always available, even if you have only one file selected. You should start with the refreshing of the preferences. Deleting caches and checking file permissions are not needed every time for clearing prefs (although it is wise to maintain your system on a regular basis, but that is good for the use of all apps).
On a Mac the user defined Batch Rename settings are saved in the user library / application support / Adobe/ Bridge CS5 / Batch rename setting. (not a single clue how that translate to windows but I have no reason to believe that such a file should not be present on your system.)
Enter the term "batch rename" in the windows Bridge forum search and I got....ZERO results.
Well, again a disappointment, there will be many result available in both Windows and Mac forum but it sure is not easy to find them
The forum search option is next to useless. I believe you should try to switch to the main forum page or something, I once had a result but after so many tries I forgot how I managed this (combined with getting angrier every try...)
I could really use some help because there is no way I can convert the number of files I have to make them compatible in MACs
As stated before, if the are .jpg they are already compatible
it used to be in CS 3 and 4 but since I "upgraded" to Production Premium suite 5.5 none of the version work.
If you keep having problems you might consider the clean tool option to clear PSCS 3 and 4. Check also this KB article:
http://www.adobe.com/support/contact/cscleanertool.html
It should be possible to use all CS versions on your system but you can have only one version of Bridge active at the time. Upgrading from a single CS to a Suite should also be possible without problems but sadly enough everything that should be possible without problems is often only happening in the ideal world...

IMovie to iDVD shimmering problem on DVD for some photos

Created iMovie with photos and some video. Created DVD. DVD on Mac shows shimmering on some photos as well as on TV DVD player. Have asked many trainers in London Covent Garden and Regent St for solution. The answers are not consistant just try different things. They also mention other products, Toast, Final Cut and FotoMagic. Is there a definitive way to make sure the iMovies can be created without shimmering (many snow, sunshine scenes). Or product that fixes problem. Thanks in advance. Don't want to buy product and still have problem.

For future reference, this is from iTunes Help.
+_Authorizing a computer to play iTunes Store purchases_+
+To play purchases from the iTunes Store, you must authorize your computer using your iTunes Store account and password. (Authorization helps protect the copyrights of the purchased items.)+
+You can authorize up to five computers (Macintosh, Windows, or both) at a time. To play a purchased item on a sixth computer, you need to deauthorize another one. An iPod doesn't count as a computer.+
+You can authorize or deauthorize a computer at any time. Be sure to deauthorize a computer before you sell it or give it away.+
+Here are ways to authorize or deauthorize a computer:+
◼
+To authorize a computer to play iTunes Store purchases, choose Store > Authorize Computer.+
◼
+To deauthorize a computer, choose Store > Deauthorize Computer.+
◼
+To deauthorize a computer to play spoken programs purchased from the Audible website, choose Advanced > Deauthorize Audible Account.+
◼
+If you forgot to deauthorize a computer you no longer own, you can deauthorize all your authorized computers at once. You can use this method once a year.+
+Choose Store > View My Account, and then click Deauthorize All. If you don’t see this option, it’s because you don’t have five authorized computers.+

Image quality for displaying photos

I like to use my Apple TV (3rd gen) for displaying photos taken with a variety of devices - Fuji X100s, iPhone 5, Nikon d7000. The output from these devices looks great on my 3Gen iPad but quite a bit less so on the 1080p Samsung tv, they almost look a little pixelated. On the other hand, Apples stock screen saver photos look great on the same tv.
I don't believe that my cameras don't take good enough jpg's to display well and have concluded that Apple may be doing something to their photos that I haven't figured out.
Any suggestions?

Not all my photos are great to begin with, many are taken in poor lighting conditions, but the good photos are equally as good as the stock photography.

No image for some photos

Hi,
I think this may be because I have moved the location of them but for a couple of rolls I just have a blank square with grey lines around the edge. I can see the image if I open it in full screen but it does not appear in the smaller version. Please help? x

Welcome to the Apple Discussions. If rebuilding doesn't resurrect the library you'll have to start with a new library and import the Originals folder from the old one like this:
Creating a new library while preserving the rolls from the original.
Move the existing library folder to the desktop.
Launch iPhoto and, when asked, select the option to create a new library.
Drag the Originals folder from the iPhoto Library on the desktop into the open iPhoto window.
This will create a new library with the same rolls as the original library. However dates on the rolls may be different but can be edited as you would the roll title.
Once this is completed you can delete the iPhoto library folder from the desktop. If desired, you can keep the older library folder to try other fixes on it.
In the future I recommend you make a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto file after each import and after doing a lot of editing and organizing in the library. Then if you experience a similar crash all you need to do is replace the damaged database file with the backup copy and you'll be back to the same place in the library as when you make the backup. See the tip at the end of my signature.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

How to set image size for importing photos from a digital camera

I'm using Iphoto 6 and am a novice user of my new digital camera. The camera is set to HQ image quality. Initially when I imported photos from the camera into IPhoto, the images were very large (over 1 meg) and produced good quality 4X6 prints. Now when I import photos from the same camera still set to HQ image quality, the photos are very small (less than 100 kb) after being imported into IPhoto. I think I must have changed some kind of setting in IPhoto that affects the size of an imported image, but I can't find where that is or how to change it back so that the size is not changed when imported. Can someone please help me with this? Thanks!
IMAC G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9) my other computer is a Dell Dimension L500CX running Windows XP Pro

Dave, thanks for clarifying Toad's response for me - I was just too ignorant to connect the dots from his responses. As you said, there were 2 versions - 1 in the original folder and 1 in data; the original folder had the photos that were 1 mb. We must have pulled from that folder previously to print photos not realizing they existed in 2 places. So when we found these thumbnail photos, we just thought they were the real thing. Where can you go to learn about the struction and hierarchy of the photos in terms of what Iphoto does to an image when you import it? Is it in Iphoto help somewhere? Thanks so much for your help with this, and you too Toad for leading me down the path.
If you're getting the size from Finder, I think Old
Toad's question makes a lot of sense. Is the file
you're looking at, somewhere in a folder called
"Data" in iPhoto Library? That 56k sounds about the
right size for a thumbnail.
If you do a search for the image name, both the
actual photo and the small thumbnail are stored with
the same image, e.g. abc.jpg
IMAC G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9) my other computer is a Dell Dimension L500CX running Windows XP Pro

When I start facebook, sometimes it loads ok. But, since v29, it often loads with no photo images or only some photo images shown..just empty boxes.

Facebook loads ok as far as text is concerned. But, it often loads without any of the photo images visible. Sometimes it loads with a few of the images visible. When the images are missing there are just empty boxes where the photos should be. I never had this problem until updating to the latest firefox v29. If you guys can't fix this problem, is there any way to revert back to an earlier version of firefox? tht version worked just fine.

If images are missing then check that you do not block images from some domains.
*Press the F10 key or tap the Alt key to bring up the hidden Menu bar.
Check the permissions for the domain in the currently selected tab in "Tools > Page Info > Permissions"
Check "Tools > Page Info > Media" for blocked images
*Select the first image link and use the cursor Down key to scroll through the list.
*If an image in the list is grayed and "Block Images from..." has a checkmark then remove this checkmark to unblock images from this domain.
Make sure that you do not block (third-party) images, the permissions.default.image pref on the about:config page should be 1.
Make sure that you haven't enabled a High Contrast theme in the Windows/Mac Accessibility settings.
Make sure that you allow pages to choose their own colors.
*Tools > Options > Content : Fonts & Colors > Colors : [X] "Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above"
Note that these settings affect background images.
See also:
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Website_colors_are_wrong
There are extensions like Adblock Plus (Firefox/Tools > Add-ons > Extensions) and security software (firewall, anti-virus) that can block images and other content.
See also:
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Images_or_animations_do_not_load
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Websites_look_wrong

Not allowed to change date and time for some photos; why?

I have some images that I scanned in of old photos. I'm trying to change the date and time and location to reflect the time the original photo was taken. I know how to do it in the menu system, but when I try to change the original data it tells me they are of a file type that won't allow this metadata to be changed. They are simple JPEG's so I'm not sure what the problem is. Do I need to convert it to some other format first to be able to do this? Any ideas would be helpful...

Hello Toran,
are trying to change the date and time of the versions only, or are you trying to change the date and time of the masters too? If you are using
Meta Data -> change date and time
deselect "also change master file", this causes the problem, the new Aperture version seems not to allow to change the date and time of masters.
There have been long discussions on this problem, see e.g. this thread; I do not know if somebody has found a solution by now,
Regards, Léonie

Basic image adjustments for landscape photos

I am wondering what some basic adjustments are in Aperture that people make to their landscape photos. I am at a high altitude, and many of my pics are bright and sometimes a little washed out. I use Auto Contrast sometimes, but then it sometimes goes too far, and appears too dark. I was just wondering if there are some routine adjustments that one can make to enhance the image, without making it look unnatural. Something just to take out the haze, without affecting color.

Hello Pritch,
I would recommend to adapt the camera to high altitude conditions, rather then to do too much post processing.
Pritch wrote:
I am at a high altitude, and many of my pics are bright and sometimes a little washed out. I use Auto Contrast sometimes, but then it sometimes goes too far, and appears too dark.
There are three scattering effects that do influence pictures at high altitudes: Rayleigh scattering, caused by scattering of the molecules of the atmosphere that tints the pictures blue, Mie-Scattering and non-selective scattering from small particles (pollen, dust, fog) that makes them appear hazy and washed out. The amount of corruption depends on the meteoroligal conditions, only the Rayleigh scattering is always present.
At what altitude are you? Do you know, if the CCD-Sensor in your camera blocks UV-light completely (some Sony sensors do) or lets some of the UV pass? If the latter were the case, then you will notice quite a lot of Rayleigh-scattering from blue and UV light turning your pictures blue at high altitudes, and you might consider to use a Skylight filter or even an UV Filter; in lower terrain that usually is unnecessary, since the lens absorbs most of the UV.
For landscape photograpy the filter should be a flare less one, otherwise the lens flare will spoil the picture.
And - if you do not do it already - correct the white balance at the time you take the picture, the default white balance settings of the camera usually are optimized for lower terrain.
To correct the effects of Rayleigh scattering after taking the picture you have to adjust the colors selectively to dim the blue, depending on the amount of additive blue in the picture. A white balance correction might do that if you are lucky.
The Mie scattering and non selective scattering reduce the contrast and dim the colors by adding white to the picture. To compensate them you would need a white-subtraction filter (not white balance), Aperture does not have it.
But you can achieve quite good results with a combination of black point correction, enhance definition, enhance contrast, and a slight increase of saturation. I cannot recommend default settings for these filters, because the amount of correction needed will depend on the meteorological conditions. Also, you may not want to remove the haze completely, because it will give depth to the picture and might be artistically pleasing.
A nice example on how to deal with haze is in this thread
Regards
Léonie

Menu Background Images - distorted for some reason...??

Hi again,
posted this problem a while ago, thought i had discovered a fix, but haven't had time to work on it in a few weeks. i have a high quality .tif image file 720x576 in size to use for my background image on a menu, but when it is placed in, the diagonal lines become jagged as if DVDSP was stretching the image in some way. i have tried a number of different dimensions (going by what i found in the help files) and nothing seems to work. the 720x576 .tif seems to be the closest so far...
any ideas why this is happening? the aspect ratio is set to 16:9 anamorphic and the image is the exact size of the canvas, so i don't understand why it is distorting.
any help much appreciated.
thanks
Harry

Glad you got it sorted...
But that actually makes no sense based on the information you gave.
If you are creating PAL menus then you can either use the latest versions of Photoshop which use Pixel ration Compensation (or something like that) to show you in Photoshop what a 16x9 menu would look like at 1024x576 when the actual file is really 720x576. If it's a 4x3 menu it will appear as 768x576 when it's actually 720x576
The other alternative is to create your menu at 1024x576 (as you said you had it as 16x9) then save out the menu from Photoshop as a 720x576 file and bring it into DVD-SP and flag it as 16x9 - which is what you said you had done...
So I am intrigued how you have now fixed it... when you started with a 720x576 file

Image Resolution for Printing Photos

I am not sure if the resolution/files size requirements are the same for both inkjets (e.g. Epson) and taking your camera's SD card to a local self-serve kiosk (e.g. CVS).
I have been taking photos at the larger file size with my Canon Powershot and importing them into iPhoto. But I just realize that I am going to have a gigantic iPhoto library a lot sooner then expected.
But let's say I wanted to print theses images to a typical 4" x 6" dimension gloss paper stock. What is the rule of thumb in terms of minimum/ideal resolution and file size of the image(s) that I want to print? What about 8.5" x 11"?
Below is the available settings for my camera:
L = 4000 x 3000 = 12MB file
M1 = 3264 x 2448 = 8MB file
M2 = 2592 x 1944 = 5 MB file
M3 = 1600 x 1200 = 2MB file
S = 640 x 480 = 0.3 MB file
Sometime when I open the original JPG in Photoshop the resolution is at 72 lpi. Other times it will be 180 lpi. I guess I am trying to get a sense of what resolution I should set my camera at and what adjustments do I need to make (if any) when it is time to print to paper stock.

The rule of thumb is 300 dpi. But it's rule of thumb and you can get excellent images from 180 or less with a: a good printer and b: (most importantly) a good shot, well focused and exposed.
So to find out the maximum you'll get at 300dpi from your list, just divide the numbers by 300: 4000 x 3000 / 300 = 13.3 x 10 print.
For my money: set your camera to the best quality and size always. It's easy to through throw away bits og a photo, but you can't add in missing bits after the fact. Maximum everything gives you most margin for error.
If you're worried about space then remember you can run a Library from an external drive:
Make sure the drive is formatted Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
1. Quit iPhoto
2. Copy the iPhoto Library from your Pictures Folder to the External Disk.
3. Hold down the option (or alt) key while launching iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Choose Library' and navigate to the new location. From that point on this will be the default location of your library.
4. Test the library and when you're sure all is well, trash the one on your internal HD to free up space.
Regards
TD

Delete button for some photos in the moments tab is disabled

Several of my photos after the ios8 update are unable to be deleted. I select them but the trash button is disabled. If I open them individually the trash button is not there in the bottom right. Please help. very annoying.

Those are usually photos that were synced to your device from your computer using iTunes. They can only be removed by syncing them off again. Either uncheck the entire folder (windows) or event (iPhoto on a Mac) that they belong to and sync again to remove all the photos from the folder/event. If you only want to delete some but not all of them, delete them from the folder/event on your computer and sync again and those photos will be removed.

IPhoto seems to have lost photo resolution for some photos

I recently upgrade to iPhoto8. I have set of photos in 2006 which now have only about 50KB file size. It is if they are thumbnails, not the orignal photos whose file size was 500KB to + 1MB etc.
I noticed that in my orignals folder I sometimes have multiple folders for the same day or roll. i.e. Roll 1, Roll 1_2, Roll13. These folders seem to be duplicates of the pictures, and the folder with the underscore naming sometimes has the photo with the bigger file size.
Any understadning how this could have happened or how/where iPhoto stores the orignal files so I might locate and recover, is appreciated.
Thanks
MikeK

Can anyone comment on why iPhoto is creating these additional directories?
ie. Roll 1, "Roll 1_2", "Roll 1_3"
ie. "November 18, 2006", "November 18, 2006_2"
I guess as an adjunct, if I want to back up my photo's an guarantee I have the actual origianls, should I back up the "Originals" folder?
Thanks
MikeK

Master Images Unavailable for Some Photos

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