Minimum photo quality for a 720 576 PAL

Hi, do you know what is the minimum quality that is enough to cover a 729 576 PAL? I will make thousands of photos with a nikon d70s and I then I will put them togheter one after the other in final cut. Every photo will last 3 frames. At the end it will be a music video to be watched on tv.
Let me know if you have any idea. Thanks everybody!!!
Alex

well, when I talk about quality I mean not size but compression. I mean, how much should I compress my images to be seen well through tv? For example, a raw file is too much quality for me, a tv monitor will never have enough resoultion to show the details that a raw contain. on the other hand a small jpeg is too low and I could see artefacts. then: how much of compression? sorry my question was not realy clear...
bye
alex

Similar Messages

Acceptable and Quality Still Photo Resolution for HDV Documentary

I've scanned through several pages of posts on photo resolution here, but I haven't actually found a simple answer to a beginner's question. Two, actually:
1. If someone is supplying you with still photo prints for scanning and use in a documentary (shot in HDV, edited on FCP5), is there a particular size print that you should ask for? Does the broadcast venue (theatrical, TV, etc.) have any relevance?
2. If someone is scanning photos and sending you a CD with them, what are the specs (size, resolution, etc.) you should ask for? And are there "minimum acceptable" specs and "preferred, high quality" specs?
Thanks.
Paul S.
Power Mac G5 [email protected]; 4GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.4) FCP 5 (FC Studio), Logic Express, Presonus Firebox

Having worked on several long-form historical docos with hundreds of source photo scans, I'd highly recommend getting the originals in as high a resolution as you can (at least 300 DPI), and getting the entire photo scanned. You just never know when you need to apply pans or zooms or crop into a particular area to improve the edit, and there are many simple ways to prep the selected photos for import.
The simplest is just to do the scaling & cropping in FCP. It will do a fine job of this, but if it turns out most of the photos will be static, you can waste computer resources by importing unnecessarily-large images. As mooblie pointed out, you strictly only need enough resolution to prevent scaling up past 100%, as this will create pixelated lower quality output.
The most common way to prep scans is in Photoshop, where you can scale the image to a desired pixel size very easily. I'd still leave the image at its natural frame size (as scanned), so you have the most creative choice when you are framing it in the timeline using FCPs cropping & motion tabs tools.
If you've got lots of photos and lots of pans & zooms, consider using one of the third-party tools that will help with this, such as Photo to Movie from LQ Graphics, Moving Picture from StageTools, or even the plugin for FCP I wrote to help with the docos I mentioned above. It's called Pan Zoom Pro and you can see about it and download a demo here: http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#pzp .
Cheers,
John
Lyric Media

Exporting photos for UHDTV or Native 4K TV, what are the best settings ? (File: Quality File: Color Space, Image Sizing and resolution) Or in other words; How can I get the smallest files but keep good quality for display on new UHDTV

Exporting photos for UHDTV or Native 4K TV, what are the best settings ? (File: Quality File: Color Space, Image Sizing and resolution) Or in other words; How can I get the smallest files but keep good quality for display on new UHDTV

You're welcome, and thank you for the reply.
2) Yesterday I made the subclips with the In-Out Points and Command-U, the benefit is that I've seen the clip before naming it. Now I'm using markers, it's benefit is that I can write comment and (the later) clip name at once, the drawback is that I have to view to the next shot's beginning before knowing what the shot contains.
But now I found out that I can reconnect my clips independently to the format I converted the master clip to. I reconnected the media to the original AVI file and it worked, too! The more I work with, the more I'm sold on it... - although it doesn't seem to be able to read and use the date information within the DV AVI.
1) Ok, I tried something similar within FCE. Just worked, but the file size still remains. Which codec settings should I use? Is the export to DV in MOV with a quality of 75% acceptable for both file size and quality? Or would be encoding as H.264 with best quality an option for archiving, knowing that I have to convert it back to DV if I (maybe) wan't to use it for editing later? Or anything else?
Thank's in advance again,
André

What's the best quality export for a 720 X 480 size, 24fps mp4 file?

Whats the best quality export for a 720 X 480 size, 24fps mp4 file?
This movie trailer will be sent to a distributer overseas.
The export I been resorting to lately is MPEG 2 DV High Quality as oppose to anything HDTV because it just shrinks the picture, obviously lol
Do I have anymore options besides Mpeg 2: NTSC DV High Quality?

Lagarith is a codec that you install separately. A very brief Search would have given you that info.
You can access the Lagarith option (once installed) using the Microsoft AVI format, and selecting Lagarith under Video Codec in the Video tab.

Photo quality too poor for book

When creating a book the program tells you that one or more photos may not have appropriate quality for the book you are creating but does not identify which photos. Is there a way to determine which ones?

JA
Welcome to the Apple user to user assistance forums
If you are getting a warning then there is a low quality photo (less than 180 dpi) in the book there will be a yellow warning triangle in the upper right hand corner of the photo in the book - go though the book page by page and looks for the yellow triangle
LN

For highest photo quality what should ppi be? in photoshop should I "Sharpen Edges" as in use for web?

For highest photo quality what should ppi be to look good in Retina? In photoshop should I use "Sharpen Edges" as I would for in use for web?

There are about 1 trillion threads and replies about the size of images to be used and accepted when using iBA.
Obvioulsy you have not taken time to search the forum before asking your question, nor do you seem to have downloaded the iBA asset guide.
I suggest you go to Apples iPad page on the store and check the screen dimentions/ resolution for a non mini iPad retina. DPI at 72 or above is your choice.
I also suggest before setting out on a book project, you take time to read the forum and download the PDFs which are available.
A KT states in effect - first do your own home work before starting out asking questions and that way you will avoid the proverbial self inflicted wounds - which will follow because it seems you have not yet actually spent time learning about iBA or read the help files.
This forum will gladly spend time and effort to help folk... but most dont really have time to continually givie answers which already exist on the forum.

Exporting photos from Lightroom that are good enough quality for a photography website.

I am doing a website for a photographer client that need to showcase their images in a rotating gallery that will be about 1/2 the page so pretty big. She gave me all the photos in FULL size which meant that they were excellent quality and looked amazing on my computer at home as I have fast internet and they all loaded up in seconds. Only problem, when I tried it on a different internet source that wasn’t as speedy, they took so long to load that the next one would start, hence no images ever being visible. This is not good as not everyone will have as fast internet as me and it’s pointless if no one can see her work.
She then exported them for web, using the normal settings that she usually would, leaving them around 200-600KB which loads up nice and quickly, but the quality just don’t do the photo’s justice AT ALL!
I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions of the setting to use to export them from lightroom so that the quality is still next to perfect, but they are small enough so that they load up in a reasonable time on the web.
Each photo displays for 5 full seconds before alternating.
Thank you in advance and if you have any further suggestions, I would love to hear them.

You need to use export settings similar to this:
Quality setting should be at least 60, but you can sometimes get away with less. (smaller file size)
But if you need to export a lot of images, do them all at 60, and re-export as necessary. If you for instance see blockiness in a clear blue sky, increase quality until it goes away.
Color space must be set to sRGB.
Set the required size in pixels, using Long edge is quite convenient. Whatever you enter in the resolution box doesn't matter - web browser ignore ppi.
Experiment with Screen sharpening to find the setting that works best. Standard usually works OK, but it depends on the sharpness of the original.
Set Metadata to Copyright Only, this keeps file size down.

Recommendations for best photo quality in a slideshow video?

I have a project that I'm working on where photo quality is a priority to the customer. I'd never paid attention previously that the final product was less than perfect with the images...
Can someone recomend what best procedure would be and what settings I should be using on the sequence to preserve the quality? (or point me to a link that could walk me through it) The photos are all 1024px wide at 300dpi, currently saved as .jpgs. I can resize and save them from Photoshop into another format if needed...
Thank you!

Saw that you were going to DV. Your images will be scaled, but not by that much. If you will be doing and Pans with an image Zoomed out to max, you'll have a bit of wiggle room. In general terms, 1000x750 is recommended, though I size all of my images as needed, usually 720x480. The resizing algorithms in PrPro are not as good as those in PS. Still, you're talking such a small amount of scaling and already have JPEG's to start, that I would leave them, as they are.
In the future, you might try to go to before the JPEG compression, where quality is the biggest concern, and resize to suit in PS. Save_As .PSD.
Here's an ARTICLE on resizing in PS, if it's of interest to you.
Good luck,
Hunt

Photo quality follow-up questions

I read OT's response to a photo quality question and had some follow-ups I'd like to ask. Aside from cropping photos to 4:3 format does increasing the dpi of the photos have any effect in improving the quality of the final image in iDVD?
I'm making a dvd of family photos for my wife. Some were taken with a digital camera, some are photos scanned by myself and some are photos given to us by relatives that they scanned. I'm putting them together in iMovie, leaving them static - no pans or zooms, keeping the image size at a value of "1", setting the duration at 5 seconds and grouping them by subject using chapter markers so I can get around the 99 photos limitation. (I have over 1500 photos.)
I've already burned on dvd and was disappointed by the "jaggies" on most of the photos when viewed on my cinema display. Haven't looked at the dvd on a regular tv (CRT, not flat screen/digital). The images looked great in iMovie. It occurred to me that increasing the dpi - most were at 72 dpi - to 300 might improve this issue all other things remaining the same. I can do that easily in Photoshop, but was wondering if that would be a waster of time - especially if no improvement would be realized.
Thanks for any thoughts/help that anyone can offer.

iMovie HD 6.0.3 and iDVD 6.0.4
As far as I know - this will give max quality possibly when making a Video-DVD
resolution: 72dpi or 300dpi
depends on size
A small picture 200 x 300 pixels - will be worse than a 1200 x 1600 picture.
Resolution doesn't matter as I see it.
iMovie and/or iDVD will try to scale it to fit - and up or down-scaling
will not be done kindly.
Still using my 2016 × 1512 - usually give good result in iMovie
but if I Share to iDVD (iMovie HD6 6.0.3 or 4) - BAD RESULT
I just close the iMovie project
Drop the iMovie project icon (With a black star on it) into the iDVD application (menu window).
Result best possibly for a Video-DVD - DVD standard is the limit.
Else that determine the final quality on the DVD
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Maintaining Photo Quality In iMovie

Question for one of you brilliant guys using iMovie.
I have my movie for the veterans almost finished, but I have a question on maintaining photo quality when publishing or finalizing the movie.
I did a test and exported my movie to hard drive, but the photos have piilation in shaded areas like the photos were taken with a Dollar Store throw away camera. The original photos are good quality. I exported as 720 HD. How can I get the best quality if I want to put the movie on DVD?
Thanks so much.

Sorry for the Typo, I meant "Pixilation, Spottines" generally poor quality

Photo Quality on Picture Book

I am trying to create a picture book in iPhoto using photo's from my son's football team. Some are digital images, but most are scanned pictures. Many of the scanned pictures have warning indicators in the picture book maker that says the printed picture may not be of quality. I would hate to send it off as is and have a poor picture book. I no longer have the pictures to re-scan. Does anyone have any experience with picture books through iPhoto who has dealt with this before?

there is no answer for this? It totally depends on the pixel density of your photos and the size of the frame - the low res indicator comes on at below 180 dpi - a 179 dpi photo will probably still be acceptable - a 18 dpi one will not - it could be anything below 180 dpi
This article is for prints rather than books but it will give you a guide as to minimum photos size - http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1135 - or simply multiply the frame size in inches by 180 and that will give you the minimum pixel size for your photo
LN

Poor photo quality when exporting iPhoto slideshow

Does anyone know which setting produces the best quality for an mp4 when creating a DVD using iDVD? I put a slideshow together using iPhoto because I wanted to use the iPhoto scrapbook theme. I exported the iPhoto slideshow using the highest quality (standard display setting) which produces an mp4 1422 x 800 (H.264, 30 fps, 7 Mbps, ~907 MB).
The iDVD project settings are:
1) Best Performance
2) High Quality
3) Professional Quality
What doesn't make sense to me is that #1 claims to produce a total ~1GB DVD with a 995 MB movie and shows the Quality level as green.
When selecting #2, the claim is a total ~643 DVD with a 575 MB movie with Quality in the red.
When choosing #3, the numbers stay the same as #2 but the Quality goes to yellow.
Why wouldn't the higher quality settings produce a larger DVD with less compression? Which setting really gives the highest quality?
The default is #1 (Best Performance) which clearly produces the lowest quality video when compared to the mp4 export from iPhoto (appeared with a higher quality) and when compared with playing the slideshow directly in iPhoto (appeared with the highest quality).
Would the quality be any higher if I export the iPhoto slideshow using a customized setting? iPhoto custom settings allow the choice of about 10 different compression types from Animation, Apple Intermediate Codec, to DV/DVCPRO - NTSC, to H.264, to MPEG-4 Video, to None (and others not listed here). The frame Rate can also be adjusted from Current (whatever that means), to 8, to 60. The Compressor Quality can be adjusted from Least to Best. Would "None" as the compression type produce the best quality when producing the iDVD?
The ultimate goal is to display the slideshow on the project at my church. The easiest way to do this is to put it on a DVD. But as described above, the quality decrease from iPhoto direct play of the slideshow is noticeable when moving to the .mp4 and extremely noticeable when putting the .mp4 in iDVD and playing the DVD back.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions or links to better documentation.

you just cannot export your slideshows in order to burn DVDs, with the same quality
That's an issue with iDVD and the DVD standards. All DVD media is downsized to 640 x 480 or the wide screen 720 x 480. It's the nature of DVDs, not iPhoto. If you use the Ken Burns effect in iPhoto you will need to use the largest 4:3 ratio images possible so the zoom and scan of the KB effect is working on the most number of pixels possible.
I've found that the best final image resolution is obtained by creating the slideshow in iDVD from stills imported from iPhoto at the 4:3 size ratio. The downside to that method is no KB effect and only one transition per slideshow. I play those types of slideshows on a 50" 1020p HD Panasonic plasma TV and the images are quite good. But good is in the eye of the beholder.
See Jim Symon's post in this iDVD topic: Re: High-definition DVDs. Also search his other posts as he was working out a workflow using Photo to Movie to create high def movies and burn them with iDVD. As I recall he found and posted his workflow at one time.

Resolution limited at 720 / 576 in tryout version of Premiere pro?

Dear all,
I have imported a video (wmv) in my project. the resolution is 1280 / 992 but when I want to export my project, the resolution is 720 / 576 and I can't change it.
The quality sequence video in output is very bad...
I use the tryout version for 30 days.
Can I change this resolution to obtain the resolution 1280 / 992 ?
best regards.
Romain

ok, it's in Adobe Media Encoder.
Thank you for your support Harm Millaard.
regards

Other video size than 720/576 ?

hello
I made a search in the forum but didn't find any answer.
Is there any way to have images at other format than the usual 720/576 ?
I have made several movie in wide screen format and would like to burn them on DVD.
But when I import, I have an error message : size of this file must be 720/576.
The DVD would be played on 16/9 flat screen.

"PAR" is pixel aspect ratio. I'm afraid I don't know how that translates into French. On your computer monitor every pixel is square; the width is the same as the height, which means that it is a pixel aspect ratio of 1. Many types of video uses pixels that are
not square, but rectangular. E.g. NTSC 4:3 DV and MPEG-2 for DVD (720x480) has pixels that are "portrait" (taller than they are wide) and have a PAR of 0.9. PAL uses 720x576 to create the same 4:3 image and its pixels are "landscape" (wider than they are tall) with a PAR of 1.067.
It may help to check these documents:
Square and Non-Square Pixels
Work with non-square pixels
Which application are you using for editing?

Import 704*576 og eksport 720*576 Premiere elements

Hej.
Jeg har kæmpet med et problem igennem længere tid. Jeg har prøvet mange forskellige convertere, men resultatet bliver ikke tilfredsstillende.
Problemet er, at jeg har en del video optaget med et ældre videokamera (Hitachi DZ-MV 780e). Sagen er den, at det optog i 704*576, og at der fulgte en afspiller med som kunne strække billedet til 720*576 og dermed fik et "normalt" 16/9 billede ud af det.
Hvis jeg i dag importere filmen til Premiere elements går det fint, og resultatet bliver acceptabelt, (Jeg omdøber bare .VRO filen til .MPG og så går det fint.) MEN jeg vil gerne eksportere resultatet til 720*576 og dermed få det "rigtige" 16/9 billede ud af det.
Desværre kan jeg ikke finde ud af hvordan. Den eksporterede film kommer ud med sorte bjælker i siderne og giver et sammenpresset billede, når det eksporteres.
Så spørgsmålet er: Kan jeg på en eller anden måde få et billedområde på 704*576 til at blive strækket ud, så det fylder 720*576? Og i så fald. Hvordan?
MVH
JessOtto

JessOtto
Thank you for the reply with further details and comments.
If you see any black borders in the Edit area monitor after you have adjusted the Pixel Aspect Ratio in Interpret Footage, you can scale the image
in the Edit area monitor to get rid of the black borders. It is assumed that these black borders that you are seeing are minor ones.
Scale suggestions...
a. Click on the screen, and drag on one of the handles of the image's bounding box to scale it.
or
b. Highlight the clip on the Timeline, and go to Properties/Motion Panel expanded/Scale property and the Scale Slider to scale the image.
(by default width and height are scaled together; if you want one or the other, then uncheck the "Constrain Proportions" option there.
Just a reminder, when you are working with PAL DV Widescreen, the 16:9 flag stretches the video from 720 x 576 to about1056 x 576 for display after encoding.
Does the scaling after Interpret Footage improve your situation?
ATR

Minimum photo quality for a 720 576 PAL

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