MSI 660Ti PE OC - New Drivers 314.07 - Crysis 3

Hi MSI,
Throwing this out there. You guys might be working on it.
Just wondering if you guys will bring out new msi drivers? The 306.97 are the most stable, but I would love to see a 314.07 since nvidia optimized Crysis 3 in the drivers. When I just install Nvidia 314.07 works fine in normal computing till I get black screens sometimes; Game crashes with no error message; Crysis 3 frame drops/stuttering/spikes and VLC has some tearing on sometimes. It is not a big deal, but would love stable version for my card.
Kind regards,
TracerXL

Sorry, but I know that is the case.
I was just under the impression that MSI creates there own version of the drivers to make it more stable towards the specified card.
Otherwise why recommend the MSI Nvidia drivers in the forums for people's problems.
What is the differents between the normal Nvidia drivers and the tweaked MSI version of the drivers?

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I Found New Drivers For The Msi Stereo 2 Glasses!!!!

ALELUYA!!!!
EXELENT!!!! I MADE IT!!!
Well for anybody with this problem i found a solution!!!
Well, i found a new drivers..
First.. msi don't make any more your own drivers.. now the msi video adapters use nvidia drivers.. if they have nvidia chipset..
Continue..
Go to this page, and donwload the stereo driver
http://www.nvidia.com/object/3dstereo_45.23
I install with a 50.x and dosent work.. you must uninstall the driver and install the 45.23 driver of nvidia..
http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp-2k_45.23.html
Well if you do correct. you can play again with the stereo glasses......
and don't try to install newest drivers.. 8)
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jejejeje ... nos vemos y suerte para todos...
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Although you have the new USB drivers for pocketmac, you should first install pocketmac version 4.1.25, then install the driver patch.
Wrt MissingSync, it appears that it will work properly with your new macbook only after you install the latest version of Mac OS X 10.5.6. See https://support.markspace.com/index.php?m=knowledgebase&a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=315.
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MSI GT683r- Nvidia GTX 560m new drivers ?

I would really really appreciate if anybody can tell me where can i find the new drivers for this machine since i cant play any new games like Need for speed or battlefield 3. I know this is not a strong reason to ask for but i would really appreciate any help toward this issue
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P.s the required drivers are 283.something.

Just download from nvidia homepage, works for me

MSI NX6600 128Mb 128Bits VTD128 - Drivers......

Hi,
My VGA is NX6600 128Mb 128Bits with VIVO.
I downloaded the MSI(NVIDIA) driver in Download session on MSI site. But, the version of this drivers is old, and this drivers in game BattleField2 not run correctly.
I downloaded the new drivers 84.21 of NVIDIA web page, this drivers run correctly in BF2, but i want use D.O.T. function and this driver not have this software. ?Where I download only D.O.T. software to install and use in my instaled NVIDIA drivers?
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Razi

You must download from MSI the same driver but for the MSI NX6600GT. I have the MSI NX6600 VTD128 Diamond and I had the same problem that you, MSI does not update the page for this video cards (6600 and 6600 Diamond) but yes for the 6600GT, I don't know why... .
Try with this and post it.
Greetings!!!.
PD: Like allways, sorry for my english.

Are X-F1 new drivers installable over beta

Installed the 5/30/06 Betas that said they were good until September 06 when they safely could be replaced. The new driver set including the beta changes is now available. Is there any problem installing these new drivers over the Betas??Message Edited by dogin on 08-02-2006 06:35 AM

Well I took the plunge last night and reverted my system back from SP1. Uninstalled the drivers and software and then reinstalled them with no SP1 installed. And still no WinDVR working. :
[ranrt]
I do think however anyone who is having issues with the winDVR software and XP SP1 should send MSI tech support an email because I think it is unlikely they have the time to surf the forum for complaints. So if we want to get anything done about the SP1 issues, we're going to need to send them emails. But please send professional civil emails, if they get bombarded with angry swearing emails I think they're not going to be in a real big hurry to fix things.
[/rant]

GF3 Ti-200 vs New Drivers - FIXED!!!

Any driver above 44.xx didn't work properly on my MSI GF3 Ti-200. The problem turned out to be the BIOS (version 3.20.00.20).
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nvflash --overridesub -f3201900.rom
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MSI 975X with Realtek HD drivers - cannot adjust recordin levels, stereo mix gra

Called MSI and they could not help me.
Have XP and 975X Power up board. I know there is a shortcoming in the Realtek software drivers as per what I read on Google. Have not found a fix, wonder if others have.
Recording Sliders (volume) are grayed out and not move-able (locked) for recording volume for anything except Master Volume.
Cannot adjust line-in volume or stereo mix for recording.
Ideas without putting in a 3rd party card?
Thought I had this working once but perhaps I never did.
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Thanks so much
Peter

Hello Peter,
Quote
Recording Sliders (volume) are grayed out and not move-able (locked) for recording volume for anything except Master Volume.
This does not have anything to do with your mainboard. It is basically a limitation of the Realtek Sound Drivers for Windows XP. Google "Realtek Mixer XP" and look at the images you find. No individual recording sliders to be seen, no matter what board. Here is an ASUS Example Screenshot:
If you need to adjust microphone input volume, go to the Playback part of the mixer and scroll it to the right using the <> buttons until you find a slider for the jack you microphone is plugged in (compare picture above, I don't have an MSI Screenshot at hand). You can enable microphone boost here and adjust the input volume. The same is true for Line-In.
In case of microphone problems, make sure you microphone is calibrated. There is an application in the Realtek installation folders called "miccal.exe". Run it to calibrate your microphone.

PC suddenly restarts while playing games MSI 660Ti Power Edition OC 2GB

Hi,
I have the following problem since I replaced my graphics card (before 9800GTX+, now MSI 660Ti Power Edition 2GB) I got 3 random restarts while playing games. The computer is not overheating, the CPU's temperature is around 58-59 degrees after running prime95 for 3 hours. The graphics card temperature is 70 degrees after running furmark for 1 hour, the stress tests never failed, just when running games. The computer has been stable. For case cooling im using (2X12cm front, rear 1X14cm below 1X12cm and above 1X12cm +1 X14cm).
I got two random system restarts while playing Doom 3 BFG and one system restart after playing Wolfenstein for 4 hours. The PC just restarts itself.
What could be wrong? I have no more ideas? Should I replace the CPU cooler (im running the stock CPU cooler but all stress tests dont show overheating?!)
Is it possible that the PSU is the reason, but it should be strong enough ...
The system:
GA 870A-UD3
AMD Phenom II 1090T (cooler box)
MSI GeForce 660Ti Power Edition OC 2GB
12GB RAM (12GB Kit 3X4GB DDR3 Kingston Genesis 1600)
Samsung 256GB 840pro
WD Blue 500GB
Thermaltake Thoughpower Q-Fan 750W PSU
Housing NZXT Source 210 Elite
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
Thank you.

The temps for the graphics card are quite normal. I have the same one and under load it will go to 70 to 75C, depending on ambient. What Nvidia driver are you using? Did you do a new driver installation?
If I look at your CPU though, then you are very close to the max CPU temp and throttling may invoke the shutdown http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=640&f1=&f2=&f3=&f4=&f5=&f6=&f7=&f8=&f9=&f10=&f11=&f12=
62C is max.
Could also be your PSU that's not completely stable and continuous power draw may cause Overcurrent or overtemp protection. Speculating here as to probable causes.
Another possibility is your RAM. That should normally be paired in 2's. Have you tested with only 2 modules ? Remember we don't support that MB here, but its just another test I would run. But you would know, probably having run it like that with the previous GPU.

1212M Crackling/Popping - New Drivers

I'm kind of cranky about this problem. Read on because I actually know exactly what the problem is (at least for most of us and only Creative/EMU can fix it).
Background
I have a 1212M with the 0404 I/O card. It's a V1 that have had for five or six years. The quality of the sound is great, the features are great and the price is great. There's just one problem. From the day I got the board all those years ago I've had the crackling/popping problem that many, many other users also have.
The problem is not my motherboard, BIOS, other hardware, Windows or other applications. Over the years this EMU board has been in many different systems, many different configurations and the evolution from WinXP, Vista and now to Win7. The crackling problem has always been exactly the same. The problem is the board itself, not the system and not the configuration and I can prove it (read on).
Another thing that frustrates me is all the time that so many users have spent trying to troubleshoot this issue that is completely wasted since, for some of us, the problem is in the EMU hardware/drivers. That's not to say that there aren't some other crackling problems that are related to the system speed, interfering hardware or interfering software. There are actually two different problems that both have the same crackling symptom which makes all this quite confusing. I'll call them "System Related" and "EMU Hardware/Driver Related". If you're having the crackling symptom you should figure out which type of problem you have before spending hours troubleshooting, reinstalling, etc, etc, etc. Here's how:
If your crackling problem:
- Doesn't happen on startup. Your audio is fine and the problem only develops after a while. On my system it's between 60 and 90 minutes and resetting the card.
- Starts with a few minor crackle/pops per second and gradually gets progressively worse over several minutes with nothing else changing in the system (ie not running new software or changing anything).
- After a while (can be a long while) the crackling can actually go away again and you have clean audio. Then the crackling returns. Once again with no changes in system load in between.
- You can make the crackling go away instantly and every time by simply resetting the clock on the card. There are several ways to do this. In Patchmix go to the System tab under Session Settings and switch the clock between internal/external (whatever you have it on, go to the other and back again). Another way is the change the ASIO Buffer Latency milliseconds in your host software's ASIO control panel.
If those four things are all true for you then you have the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. Do not waste any time with all the well-meaning but misguided troubleshooting ideas posted on this and other forums. None of it will help.
If these four things aren't true on your system then by all means you should try all the troubleshooting steps because it's likely that you can resolve your crackling problem.
Here is what is happening with the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. First, let me say that I know what the root of the problem is because I used to work for a company that developed high-end professional video/audio software for Windows PCs. We encountered this exact same problem when some our users started reporting it. It wasn't solely with Creative or EMU hardware because the problem can actually happen on a variety of PC audio cards where the hardware is slightly out of spec or malfunctioning and the software driver is not capable of correcting the problem.
Our most senior software engineers banged their heads against this problem for quite a while until they determined what was going wrong in our customer's PC audio hardware. The issue is that the clock on the card is drifting slightly which means it is going a little faster or slower than the current sample rate. That's why the problem only manifests after a while. It's also why the crackling goes away when you reset the clock. The fundamental issue is that the audio data coming from your PC is being written into a buffer. The data is written by the PC driver and read from the buffer by the card and then sent to the card's output. You can think of the buffer as a big circle of memory. There's a write pointer that writes one value of data and then increments one step and "180 degrees" opposite in the circle of memory is a read pointer that reads one value of data and then increments one step.
These two pointers never move at exactly the same speed. They are constantly slowing down or speeding up a little bit but over time on average they end up advancing at about the same rate. The problem is that when the clock on the card is drifting, the read pointer and write pointer will eventually cross over. That's why the this kind of crackling problem manifests only after a while because, depending on the drifting, it takes a while for the pointers to cross. It's also why the crackling is subtle at first and then gets progressively worse over time. Right when the pointers are overlapping the timing is still close. As one pointer starts to "lap" the other point more and more the crackling artifact gets progressively worse. That's also why the problem usually goes away again if you wait long enough. The pointers can actually get back in phase again for a short while! That's how I know exactly what the current problem is the 1212M board because it manifests with these precise characteristics. The old problem my former companies user's had even sounded exactly the same as the crackling my EMU 1212M has.
Once we understood the problem, in our next version we modified our software to use a larger buffer. This eliminated the problem for some of our customers whose hardware clock was only very slightly out spec. However, for other customers the problem remained, although by increasing the buffer size it made it take longer for the pointers to reach each other and the crackling to begin. This is the what I suspect EMU has done with the new Win7 beta drivers. With the new drivers my crackling takes longer to appear. In these forums we see reports from some long-time sufferers of the problem that the new driver fixed their problem and from others we hear that they are still having the problem.
Since we still had unhappy users of our video/audio application software, we kept working on the issue and eventually came up with a fix that solved the problem for all users and all audio hardware. It was hard to implement but this is what EMU/Creative needs to have their driver engineers do to actually fix the problem (short of replacing an enormous amount of hardware).
The problem can be solved in the driver (yes, my old company actually embedded our own low level generic driver in our application software). Since EMU/Creative is making their driver themselves they can just implement this fix there. The secret is for the driver to actually keep track of where the write and read pointers are and each time they get too close to each other it stretches or shrinks the next packet of data by averaging the audio samples in that packet to the exact size needed to put the pointers 180 degrees apart again. It then resets the pointers as it writes that new data. The data shrink or stretch prevents a single pop or click from happening when the pointers are reset to their correct positions. Frankly, this was hard to implement but it worked perfectly. We actually hired a consultant to figure this audio problem out who was a former Microsoft engineer who wrote the WDM kernal mode drivers.
EMU SUPPORT please let your product manager know that this is what is going on and that he should ask your contract driver engineers to implement this type of solution. Yes, it will cost more in development time (and hence $$$), but it will fix the issue once and for all and not just for this card. You can re-use the code in other drivers.
If you need specific help, I'll even connect you with the engineers that did it for a more detailed explanation (we sold our company years ago and the team has split up but I'm still in contact with most of them).

Markran,
Thank you for the information. I will make sure that it gets routed to the correct people.
Casey

Tried to update iPod, failed, no new drivers installed. Now iPod does not show in my computer or in iTunes.

Anyone know how I can update/unbrick this iPod? It's useless. It's stuck on the screen that says connect to iTunes. iTunes doesn't know it's there. My computer doesn't know it's there. It's not the USB port.
Please don't direct me here - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1808 - already tried, no results.
Last time it was a missing driver for iTunes but iTunes says nothing new is needed. Help appreciated.

Let me try this again. My computer said my iPod needed an update. I clicked ok. iTunes said it was doing the update. I browsed the internet. I came back to it after it was done, and it said update failed, no new drivers installed. Now my iPod touch is a brick. I cannot use it for anything. You know that screen that shows the usb cable, a white arrow, and iTunes? It's stuck there. No amount of pushing the sleep/wake button and home button will convince it to go to any other screen. When I go to 'My Computer', it does not recognize that there is anything there. It is not the USB port. Everything was fine until the update tried and failed.
I am not installing iTunes (piece of crap software that it is) on the other computer in my apartment.
I have exhausted the articles that sort of go with the problems I am having. They all assume a non brick iPod. Mine is a brick and therefore those articles, including the one you linked, are not relevant.
Not meaning to be rude, but I came into this not caring much for Apple's business model. I've had my iPod for .. a week? Maybe two, and nothing I've seen has convinced me to feel otherwise. Apple's products are supposed to just work. I am not finding that to be the case. Anyone with anything helpful please?

Hi can anyone help me. I have a apple macbook laptop OSX 10.5.8 . When i push print, it shows my printer but says cannot communicate with printer. (epson stylus nx125). Do I need new drivers? Please help . regards Cindy

Hi can anyone help me. I have a apple macbook laptop OSX 10.5.8 . When i push print, it shows my printer but says cannot communicate with printer. (epson stylus nx125). Do I need new drivers? Please help . regards Cindy

Welcome to Apple Support Communities. We're users here and do not speak for "Apple Inc."
Some basic printer troubleshooting steps before worrying about a printer driver:
1. Have you tried turning the printer off and back on?
2A. Is the printer attached with a cable?
     If yes, have you tried unplugging and re-plugging both ends of the printer cable?
     If that does not help, can you test the printer with another cable?
2B. If your printer is not connected to the computer with a cable, have you tried restarting your printer (assuming wireless connection)?
     Have you tried restarting your wireless router?
3. Have you tried restarting your MacBook? (Be sure to save your work first.)
4. Does the printer have ink? (Doesn't usually generate a 'communications error' though)
5. Have you updated OS X or the program you're trying to print from recently?

Is there any way to open a file with a .msi extension on my new mac?

I have Camtasia from the pc I was using. It has a .msi file extension for the installation file. Is there any way to open the Camtasia installation file with the .msi extension on my new Mac?
Thanks,
Jerry

That's a Microsoft program which requires Windows. You could run on your Mac if you install Windows on it.
Windows on Intel Macs
There are presently several alternatives for running Windows on Intel Macs.
Install the Apple Boot Camp software. Purchase Windows 7 or Windows 8. Follow instructions in the Boot Camp documentation on installation of Boot Camp, creating Driver CD, and installing Windows. Boot Camp enables you to boot the computer into OS X or Windows.
Parallels Desktop for Mac and Windows XP, Vista Business, Vista Ultimate, or Windows 7. Parallels is software virtualization that enables running Windows concurrently with OS X.
VM Fusion and Windows XP, Vista Business, Vista Ultimate, or Windows 7. VM Fusion is software virtualization that enables running Windows concurrently with OS X.
CrossOver which enables running many Windows applications without having to install Windows. The Windows applications can run concurrently with OS X.
VirtualBox is a new Open Source freeware virtual machine such as VM Fusion and Parallels that was developed by Solaris. It is not as fully developed for the Mac as Parallels and VM Fusion.
Note that Parallels and VM Fusion can also run other operating systems such as Linux, Unix, OS/2, Solaris, etc. There are performance differences between dual-boot systems and virtualization. The latter tend to be a little slower (not much) and do not provide the video performance of the dual-boot system. See MacTech.com's Virtualization Benchmarking for comparisons of Boot Camp, Parallels, and VM Fusion. A more recent comparison of Parallels, VM Fusion, and Virtual Box is found at Virtualization Benchmarks- Parallels 10 vs. Fusion 7 vs. VirtualBox. Boot Camp is only available with Leopard and later. Except for Crossover and a couple of similar alternatives like DarWine you must have a valid installer disc for Windows.
You must also have an internal optical drive for installing Windows. Windows cannot be installed from an external optical drive.

New drivers won't work for X-Fi Xtreme Gamer

I use Windows XP SP 2 with my X-Fi Xtreme Gamer.
I used the Device Manager to uninstall my old drivers (v2.5.0006), rebooted, cancelled the Windows new-hardware popup, and installed the new drivers (v2.5.0008). I had no sound immediately after the installation, though I think I should have heard mouse-clicking sounds and sounds that accompany opening and closing windows from my desktop and Windows Explorer. After restarting after the installation, I still had no sound.
To restore sound, I uninstalled the new drivers and reinstalled the old ones.
Has anyone else encountered this trouble Does anyone know what is happening
Here is some information on my system:
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Version: 5..2600 Service Pack 2 Build 2600
System Name: YOUR-C7B5E9C69F
User Name: YOUR-C7B5E9C69F\Russell
Windows Directory: C:\WINDOWS
System Directory: C:\WINDOWS\system32
Boot Device: \Device\HarddiskVolume
Locale: United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "5..2600.280 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-258)"
Time Zone: Pacific Standard Time
System Manufacturer: Magnell
System Model: ABS Ultimate M6
System Type: X86-based PC
Motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe NF4 (Socket 939)
Processor: x86 Family 5 Model 7 Stepping 0 Authentic AMD ~263 MHz (AMD Athlon 64 FX-55 (2.63 GHz), socket 939
BIOS Version/Date: Phoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS A8N-SLI DELUXE ACPI BIOS Revision 006, 3/3/2005
SMBIOS Version: 2.3
Memory: Dual DDR GB PC3200XL Corsair
Total Physical Memory: 2,048.00 MB
Available Physical Memory: .68 GB
Total Virtual Memory: 2.00 GB
Available Virtual Memory: .96 GB
Page File Space: 3.85 GB
Page File: C:\pagefile.sys
Video: EVGA NVidia GeForce 6800Ultra 256MB
Video Card Drivers: NVidia Forceware drivers version 6.4.00.756
Hard Dri've: Western Digital Raptor 74GB WD740GD 0,000RPM 8MB
Sound: Creative Labs Soundblaster X-Fi Xtreme Gamer (driver v2.5.0006)
CompUSA Dual Format Double Layer DVD+/-RW USB (R = 6x DVD, 48x CD)
Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 93c 9 LCD
Mouse: Logitech G9 Laser (Driver v.4.22.52)
Keyboard: Ideazon MERC Stealth Illuminated Gaming Keyboard (Model No. KUH0702)
Printer: HP Photosmart C5580
Mass Storage Device: Corsair Flash Voyager 2.0 GB (USB 2.0 flash memory dri've)
Power: PC Power and Cooling Turbo-Cool 50
Email: Outlook Express version 6.00.2900.280 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-258)
Virus and Spyware Protection: Norton Internet Security 2009
Internet Service Provider: SBC/Yahoo! Pro DSL

I have solved my own problem. The trouble was that using the Device Manager to uninstall my old drivers did not work. Apparently a file that needed to be deleted was not deleted, and that file prevented the new drivers from working. I finally got the new drivers to work by using the following procedure, which except from some notes I have inserted, was obtained by email from Creative support:
1. Go to Control Panel, Add Remove Programs and un-install all listings related to your audio card. Do not restart your computer when prompted so.
2. Go to Control Panel, and switch to Classic View. Click System, Hardware tab, Device Manager button and delete all sound cards entries in Sound, Video and Game Controllers as well as any previous sound card entries from the Device Manager. ?Note: Personally, to get to Device Manager, I don?t follow these directions. I do this: click the Windows Start button + E, look to the left and right-click My Computer, click Properties, click Hardware tab, click Device Manager.
3. Reboot the computer and cancel out of any driver installation if you are prompted. Insert the Creative Sound Blaster installation CD into your CD-ROM dri've. Exit from the installation wizard if it autoruns.
4. Click Start, Run and then Browse. Browse to Z:\Audio\Drivers\CTZAPXX.EXE, where Z represents the CD Rom Dri've. Choose YES if you receive a prompt "Overwrite existing shared creative audio driver files?" NOTE: This CTZAPXX.EXE file could not be found on my X-Fi Xtreme installation disk by using the Z:\Audio\Drivers\CTZAPXX.EXE path. I had do use the Windows Search engine to do a search on my X-Fi Xtreme installation disk. After finding it, I highlighted the CTZAPXX.EXE program, opened it, and continued with these driver-uninstallation instructions. This seems to be a critical step. If your installation disk doesn't have this file, or if you don't have an installation disk, I suggest doing a Web search for CTZAPXX.EXE. It's a Creative Update Utility, so I don't think it will harm your computer. But I use Windows XP, and I don't know anything about Vista.
5. Select Driver un-installation for WDM drivers and click OK.
6. When prompted to restart, say No.
7. Click Start, Run, type MSCONFIG and press Enter.
8. Check the box next to Selecti've Startup and deselect Load Startup Items.
9. Select the SERVICES tab and select Hide All Microsoft Services.
10. Uncheck all results and click OK.
1. Browse to the C:\Temp folder and C:\Windows\TEMP (if it exists) - all files and folders in the temp folder need to be either deleted or moved to a new folder. ?NOTE: I had to go to my C:\Windows\TEMP file to do this step. Also, I took care to copy and paste all of these TEMP files to a new folder before I tried deleting them. Then I deleted all the Windows\TEMP files that I could. Some would not delete. Indeed some of these files could not be copy and pasted to the new folder. But that was okay. I just left alone those files I could not copy and delete, and I proceeded to delete all of the other files. The TEMP files that I could not delete did not affect my uninstallation of old sound drivers or the installation of new sound drivers.
2. Browse to Program Files, Creative and delete the Sound Blaster Folder - if you get a file that won't delete, right click on the file, click Properties and clear all the attributes. The file should then be able to be deleted.
3. Empty the Recycle Bin, and reboot the computer.
4. If you wish to install your new sound drivers, do so now. Otherwise, go to the next step. If you do install you new drivers?which I would do?don?t restart after the installation. Do the next two steps first.
5. Click on Start, Run. Type MSCONFIG and press Enter.
6. Select Normal Startup, and press the OK button.
7. Reboot the computer
8. At this point I copy-pasted all those Windows\TEMP files from my new folder back to their proper place in Windows\TEMP. Then I deleted the new folder. While restoring these TEMP files to the Windows\TEMP file, I got a couple of messages telling me these files already existed. I clicked No. That is, I did NOT replace or overwrite any existing files in the Windows\TEMP folder.
9. The new sound drivers should now be working.
Message Edited by Solipso on 04-22-2009 07:6 AMMessage Edited by Solipso on 04-22-2009 07:7 AM

"Extraction Failed: Cannot Open Output File" error message when installing new drivers

Hello, I'm trying to install new drivers for my HP Photosmart C4385 Printer. I downloaded the full feature drivers for Windows XP 32-bit, and when I start to install (extract), I get the error message:
Extraction Failed
Cannot Open Output File
And the process closes. It happens at about 85% extraction every time.
Any idea why? I called HP but since it is out of warranty they wanted money, which I think as absolutely ridiculous - won't even give me basic support?? Poor, poor customer service.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
If you haven't still got the Full Feature software installer, download it from the link below and save it to your Desktop. If you already have it, place it on your Desktop.
ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softlib/software10/COL20274/mp-53147-4/100_228_PS_AIO_02_Full_USW_enu_NB.exe
Make sure the Printer is disconnected from your PC.
Download and install 7-ZIP. Once installed, right click on the software installer for your printer, select 7-Zip and choose extract files, then click Ok.
Open the newly extracted folder and double click the setup application to start the installation ( the setup application will probably have the same icon as the original software installer you downloaded ). Connect the printer to your PC when the software asks.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
DP-K
****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience

New drivers for pc cam 850

Hellu there:
Are there any new drivers? I am using the one that came with the cd-rom. that says...2320.
A search of the Creative website does not show anything for the PC CAm 850, under PRoduct, OR sUPPORT.
Anybody can point me in the rigth direction?
TIA

any luck with your PC-CAM 300? I agree with you, this s a great little web cam, I dont understand why Creative doesnt provide a drive for it.
Let me know if you had any chance getting it to work.

MSI 660Ti PE OC - New Drivers 314.07 - Crysis 3

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