My cursor is stuck on new Imac

I am using an Imac, and i turned it on this morning, and my cursor is stuck... i move it, and it jumps back to the original spot. so i can't turn on applications... or work for that matter.
Does anyone have a solution? i have unplugged and plugged... i have restarted w/force quit...

Try another mouse, another USB port for the same mouse - any mouse will work. If wireless use a wired mouse. Narrow down the mouse vs. software this way.

Similar Messages

CDs/DVDs always get stuck in new iMac

I just bought the 24 inch iMac from the apple store a month ago. Why is it that most of the Cds/DVDs get stuck in the drive and I have to use the support "paperclip" method to get them out? A computer that costs this much shouldn't have such a fundamental problem - anyone else have this issue?
iMac6 Intel Core 2 Duo Mac OS X (10.4.9)
iMac6 Intel Core 2 Duo Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58641 explains why this may happen.
If none of the disks you are using have anything written on their label side, or any sticky labels, and fit the required size shape, and thickness, then I'd take it to the shop. The paperclip method was retired several years ago. You may have damaged your drive if you used a paperclip.

I'm trying to transfer data (docs, emails) from G4 iMac running os 10.3.9 to brand new iMac on 10.8.1 I'm stuck, any help greatly appreciated. (Ethernet or wifi networking are both options if I can figure out how to get the machines to communicate.)

I'm trying to transfer data (docs, emails) from an old G4 iMac running OS 10.3.9 to brand new iMac on 10.8.1 I'm stuck, any help greatly appreciated. (Ethernet or wifi networking are both options if I can figure out how to get the machines to communicate.)

AMoriyama wrote:
I have the old machine backed up onto an external firewire disk but can't hook that up to the new imac as I'm waiting for delivery of a firewire 400/800 adaptor - therefore starting the old machine up as a slave is also subject to the same delay.
I was hoping there might be some way to create a network between the 2 machines (and 2 different versions of the OS) to be able to transfer data across immediately but perhaps I'll just have to wait for my firewire adaptor to arrive.
I don't understand why you're buying a Firewire adaptor, since AFAIK both of your computers have Firewire already built in.
All you need is a firewire cable. Connect the Firewire socket on the old machine to the Firewire socket on your new iMac.
Then start the old machine in Target Mode (i.e. by holding down the T key on its keyboard, while it's starting up, until you see the three-legged T icon hopping around the screen of the old machine.)
At that point you will also see a new icon on the screen of your new iMac. This is the hard drive of your old machine. By clicking on it you can navigate through it any way you like, just as you would normally.
Just drag across whatever you want from the old computer to the new one. This will leave everything on the old computer untouched.
- or use Migration Assistant but in my experience, Migration Assistant isn't very reliable and fails to migrate large amounts of stuff.

New iMac set-up stuck in VO, can't complete set-up

Hi, just got my new iMac (converting from PC - yeah!), but it is stuck in this VO thing. It won't allow me to use the trackpad to click on any items on the screen, and I have difficulty selecting anything on the screen. Haven't even been able to complete registration/set-up. Any suggestions?

Contact Apple Service, iMac Service or Apple's Express Lane and let them sort things out for you..

New iMac is stuck on grey apple screen after restart from Migration Assistant

New iMac is stuck on grey apple screen after startup. It is a 3.4GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 running OS 10.9.4. The problem occurred after a migration from my older 2009 iMac which is running Snow Leopard 10.6.6. When the restart occurred from Migration Assistant, the new computer will not boot up to the login screen. Disk utility did not solve problem. Followed instructions for a soft reinstall of Mavericks but that also did not solve problem. Any suggestions?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Installed new iMac Intel firmware, restarted and now the computer is stuck

I installed the new iMac Firmware for my iMac Intel 1.83GHz and since restarting its been stuck on the loading screen.
I've tried inserting the restart CD/DVD and holding down C
I've tried restarting it with OptionCommand P + N
Still nothing, any ideas?

You want to disconnect everything possible, to limit what your iMac needs to do when it finally boots up.
According to the "What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode?" article linked below, AirPort will be off during safe boot, anyway. But you'll want to turn it off, if/when available in the menu bar, to limit memory usage when you return to a normal bootup.
Is the "loading screen" you've mentioned the firmware screen? or one of the usual boot screens? Not a black screen, right? If you mean a grey startup screen with the progress indicator dial below the apple, it wasn't able to complete what it was doing due to lack of hard drive space.
We have to hope some caches will clear in the meantime, although sometimes all it takes is shutdown and startup, but that apparently did nothing for you. Now we need to count on safe boot for saving some space.
Safe boot is of critical importance to keep anything else from loading into the system and continually jamming up the memory and what little, if any, free hard drive space.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107394
Emptying Finder trash will be necessary just to be able to open Mail. Too much stuff in Finder trash will not be able to be deleted, so if it's possible to remove something from the trash and put it on the desktop, do so until you can empty the trash, then trash one item at a time, smallest first.
Emptying Mail trash frequently will be necessary to keep each email deletion from enlarging Mail trash to a size too large to delete. Each email can be very small, which is good, as you need a place to start where deletions will be very small. It's bad from the standpoint that it'll take a while for those small deletions to add up to a decent amount of space.
One of the first larger things you can delete is the Firmware Updater if you find it in Applications/Utilities.
Coming back from a full hard drive is really just a matter of trial and error, and remembering to start small. Waiting a week is just a guess on my part. It may be that it's so locked up with the firmware install that there's nothing that would help. Then again, it may have been on the verge of booting, just needing a few extra bytes of trash to empty. What's the symbol for a "shrug?"
Message was edited by: myhighway

Is there an emergency eject hole on the newer iMacs. disk stuck in drive and computer won't boot.

Is there an emergency eject hole on the newer iMacs? I have a disk stuck in the drive and the computer won't boot. Need to get this disk out to load repair disk.

If you are getting nothing at all you should take it in for repairs.

Brand new imac stuck in software updates

Help! My brand new imac seems to be stuck in the middle of software updates - what can I do?

OK - I did solve this - I restarted the the computer in safe mode (Hold the Cmd and R keys) ran the disk repair to make sure all was well, then restarted and re-did the software update. This time it installed fine.

If 1.1 froze your new iMac, dont' give up yet - try this first

+If your aluminum iMac gave you problems before the Firmware Update v1.1, this is not the thread for you.+
But if your new iMac was fine out of the box, and fine after Update 1.0, _but became problematic after 1.1_, read on.
This was my case - all was well up until a few days after the 1.1 update. Then the following happened sporadically, leading to several power-button shutdowns.
· endless blue screen on startup after the gray apple but before the login window
· funny display artifacts - incorrect pixels, section waviness, discolored blocks
· display freeze out of nowhere - everything but the mouse cursor "stuck" forever
Some say to return or replace the whole iMac at the Apple Store. Others say to Archive (or Erase) & Install OS X from the original DVDs. Before doing any of that, and assuming you've completed the obvious (deleting suspect .PLIST files, reversed any recent hardware or non-Apple software changes, etc.), try the following first. You have nothing to lose except a little bit of time.
Step "Zero" is to reboot the computer into Safe Mode and backup your important data.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
Step 1 is to rollback your iMac's firmware to 1.0, while still in Safe Mode, as follows.
http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20070924095738296
(find the list numbered 1-6 under "Solution")
Step 2 is to make sure Step 1 takes effect:
· (still in Safe Mode) Delete the 1.1 Receipt from Macintosh HD/Library/Receipts/
· Shutdown and reset the SMC: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303446
· Power-on and reset PRAM: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
· Reboot from the Tiger install DVDs, run Disk Utility, and perform Repair Disk (likely needed after power-button shutdowns)
· Quit the Installer, Restart (a normal one), login and Repair Disk Permissions using Disk Utility
· Manually run all CRON jobs - "sudo periodic _" {daily,weekly,monthly} in Terminal
· Shutdown, reconnect anything still disconnected, and power-on as normal
Step 3 is to use your iMac like you used to and check to see if any problems return.
Step 4 is to use your hopefully now-stable iMac to inform Apple and its boss about this unacceptable situation:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/imac.html
[email protected]
My iMac has been good as new for 48 hours now. In that time, I have rolled over the Dock rapidly and repeatedly, played 1080p trailers in QuickTime, and extensively used iPhoto and iTunes. (Before the rollback, as little as a magnified Dock icon would cause a freeze, anywhere from 5-30 minutes after logging in, assuming I even made it to the login screen.)
If the above still doesn't work, then you should Archive & Install OS X, and reapply all updates except 1.1. If the problems continue, Erase & Install OS X + the same drill on updates. +If there's still no luck, then+ I'm afraid you're out of luck and need to exchange your iMac.
But I'm willing to bet it won't come to that.

illy5603 wrote:
Just an update to report that I ran through this whole thing and my symptoms persist, even when in safe mode. I am pretty sure my problem is hardware, it isn't the same lock up problem everyone is having, that was my first iMac, I am having the weird blue vertical line problem that is posted in the Macbook pro forum (but on my iMac).
Wow, that's something totally different from the 1.1-freeze issue. I've not heard about that on the iMacs until now.

Problem with brand new Imac, please help

I was suggested that it would be best for me to post this topic here in this forum.
Hi I am new to Mac, I had just gotten my 17" imac isight last week, for the most part i am very happy with it. But last night I was having some troubles with it. I had been online and was using Firefox as my browser....I went on one website and all of a sudden my mac froze up, the cursor changed to a spinning colored pinwheel and i couldn't click out of the page at all. In the upper right hand corner of the webpage which i didn't notice when i originally went on it was a message saying "you've been owned noobie"....my only guess was that this person's page had been hacked.
I tried manually shutting down the imac, when it came back on I could not do anything. Firefox and Safari kept shutting down, and even when i tried going into System Peferences it kept closing on me. I tried shutting down at one point and the computer seemed like it was still on, the light in the lower right hand corner was going in and out. I tried starting up again and could not get onto the desktop, it was stuck on the blue screen. I tried holding the power button down in the back for a few seconds and i took the power cord out from the back for 30 seconds, after that it seemed to work fine.
I am afraid that this may happen again, right now everything seems fine....has anyone else experienced this issue or has any insight on it? Is it a hardware problem or simply a bad webpage?
I appreciate any help that you guys can give me!

Hi and welcome to the wonderful world of iMacs. I too, just got the same iMac as you.
Here are some new usesr tips & links to check out:
- Get Applecare in the first 90 days.
- Apple stores have Free classes, and online seminars & tutorials.
A new service called: One to One for new users.
http://www.apple.com/support/mac101/
http://www.apple.com/support/tiger
http://www.apple.com/pro
http://www.apple.com/macatwork
http://guide.apple.com/index.lasso (all made4mac apps, utilities,
games etc.)
**For new Switchers from Pc to Mac:
http://www.apple.com/support/quickassist
http://www.apple.com/support/switch101
http://www.xvsxp.com
http://www.switchingtomac.com
- for comparisons of hardware and apps, etc.
http://guides.macrumors.com/Mac_Beginner's_Guide
** For Questions, Problems, and lots of answers:
- Always try the Help feature in the top menu of the finder and any
app for lots of info. And, Spotlight, too.
- try: macfixit.com forums and everymac.com, as well. They have
excellent forums, and tutorials.
* David Pogue's, The Missing Manual Series, of books are
indispensable! Just make sure to get the correct version for your
particular OS! Panther, Tiger, & Leopard. He has one just for
Switching, from PC to Mac.
- For more help try MacUser group in your area:
http://www.apple.com/usergroups
- You can also sign up for Kbase info from apple, too.
http://search.info.apple.com
- Check out the MacFixit Pro news, too. Tons of info.
- Helpful tutorials:
http://www.screencastsonline.com, http://www.howdoimac.com and http,
www.learntomac.com
- http://www.macinstruct.com
- software resource:http://www.iusethis.com
Have Fun,
Cali-Kate
New iMac Intel 17" Core 2 Dou, 2.0Ghz, 1G Ram, 160G HD Mac OS X (10.4.7) 500mhz Cube, 1.2g ram, 120g HD, Geforce2MX, iSticks + iSub

New Imac really noisy after change to SSD

I have TWO Imac's in my room : an Imac 24 inch I bought a few years old and I have a brand new Imac 27 inch a few months old.
A technician working for a well know, huge computer retail chain replaced in both IMAC's the HD by 128 GB SSD (in 24 inch Imac) and a 256 GB SSD (in 27 inch Imac). He also added extra RAM : I now got 8 GB in the 24 inch Imac and 12 Gb RAM in the 27 inch Imac
The 24 inch Imac operates very silent, very quick and very smooth whereas the much bigger and more powerful, new 27 inch Imac now makes A LOT OF NOISE. I am not a sensitive or paranoia person freaky about some computer noise. This is really nervewrecking and constant buzzz. The moment the newest Imac is switched on, the cooler just goes buzzing really loud. This noise has nothing to do with SSD or increase of RAM since they have no moving parts. And the noise is constant. I do NOT use software that requires lots of processing power. I just surf normal websites and do word processing and look at fotos. I don't even look much to video so it's really strange. Where does this noise all of a sudden comes from ?
The 27 inc Imac was silent when I bought it with HD disk, but once the big HD disk gone, the cooler keeps on blazing and buzzing. Awful ! The guys in the computer shop have no idea, the guys from the Apple official reseller shrug shoulders and say it is "normal" without any more explanation.
Could it be that by taking the rather big HD out of the inner frame, that the extra space becoming empty lead to an increase of airflow from the fan/cooler circulating freely in the inner frame and thus generating much noise level ???? Anyway, the noise level is totally unacceptable. SSD is supposed to be absolutely silent but now i paid good money for nothing and am stuck with a very expensive but very noisy imac with a nice 27 inch screen but Imac that works on everyone's nerves in the room and adjacent rooms.
Even guests in the adjacent living room ask what device is generating this constant buzzzzzing.

Hello,
Likely the 27" iMac had the special Seagate drive with internal temp sensor & the special Apple Rom to handle the fans, unlike the earlier one that had an external sonsor.
Since the late 2009 iMacs came out, replacing the hard drive has caused the internal Hard Drive Fan to start running at around 6000RPM.
This is due to Apple replacing the external Hard Drive temperature sensor with a proprietary firmware and using the drives internal sensor. Replacement drives do not contain the firmware to deliver temperature data on the temperature sensor cable. When the iMac does not receive a good signal from the hard drive it puts the fan at full speed to protect the drive.
If you replace your drive, your iMac will initially seem fine, but soon the fan will begin to speed up to full speed. Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) will have a temporary effect, but again the fan will speed up.
Fixes people have used in the past included:
• Using smcFanControl and the terminal to set a MAX speed for the fan and writing scripts to start this after every sleep/restart.
• Shorting the temperature sensor cable (Not a possibility on 2011 iMacs) this tricks the iMac into thinking the drives temperature is very low, hence slow fan speed.
Both these fixes are less then perfect and leave the drive in a dangerous situation with no protection from overheating.
Another option people try is other Fan Control software. These programs will not work for this particular issue as they often only control the base speed, and if they do control the fans actual speed they rely on the temperature reported by the sensor which is now incorrect.
HDD Fan Control
HDD Fan Control works to fix this issue by reading the drives internal temperature using the S.M.A.R.T protocol and set the fans actual speed to a value good to protect the drive.  It runs at startup and continually to always control the fan correctly, prevent the loud fan noise and protect the drive from overheating.
Instead of HDDFan Control, get the free SSDFan Control
http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

Brand new iMac freezes constantly! Updates aren't helping!

Hello everyone,
This past Sunday I bought a brand new iMac intel Core 2 Duo with a 250 GB HDD and 1 GB of RAM. At home I set it up with my SAMSUNG 1080p 22" monitor, Apple bluetooth Keyboard and mightymouse, and a Western Digital 350 GB HDD hooked up via USB. I was excited to finally jump on the intel-based Mac bandwagon, as well as experience dual monitors for the first time.
That was Sunday. Tuesday evening I was watching "Rome" on itunes on my Samsung monitor while surfing the web with Omniweb on the iMac monitor. All of sudden, everything locked up. I was able to move my cursor, but nothing responeded to my clicking. I hard booted the system and loaded everything I had going again, and sure enough, it locked up a few moments later. I ran system update, updated everything, then restarted. Time went by and although not immediatly, later that night it froze up on me again.
Fast forward to last nite, and the freezing reached and all time high. 5 times. Each time was when I had a browser open in my iMac window and I had Quicktime playing in my Samsung monitor. I was watching a sports program, with the player fit to the screen.
I have read many posts about intel iMacs freezing late last year, but there was a firmware update that evidently fixed that. I have this update installed, and I have had no luck. I have even contacted Apple Care via phone where I got instructed to unplug everything, plug it back in, start in safe mode, and delete cache. That didn't help me out at all. Am I right insuspecting I have a faulty Video card? I just ordered 4GB of RAM, could this be a RAM issue?

When diagnostics are run on a freezing computer and nothing shows, I'll put the program into a testing loop because this means one of two things: the issue is heat related so running the diagnostics several more times will bring on the heat so that the issue shows up or the installed RAM is marginal, just flaky enough to show up now and again but not so far off that a run through of the memory test catches it on the first run.
As I said in my original post, memory is always a suspect in a freezing or kernel panicking computer. And it does tend to top my list. But from what you describe I'm not quite willing to say, "Why don't you just wait until the RAM upgrade arrives?"

How to Transfer PC files to new IMac

I just purchased a new iMac yesterday. I have my PC files backed up on an external HD. My external HD won't work/not recognized when I test it by plugging it into my Mac Book Pro. However because I have my computers set up on a network I saved my files on DVD and the music files which are too large I copied onto my PC desktop to access via the network. Isn't there an easier way to transfer files? This is very time consuming since all of my back up files on my external HD are in Zip format. I also want to make sure all of my iphone files are on there but am not sure what to look for. Yes, I purchased one on one but am not about to carry a 27" desktop down to the store (I bought it online). Help please!

Congratulations on your new iMac. What format is your external HD formatted in, that is probably the only issue the iMac has reading it. You may be able to fix it if it's formatted in NFTS, if so you can download and install NFTS-3G and then your iMac can see the drive. From there it's a simple matter of dragging and dropping files.
If you are still stuck you have 90 days of free AppleCare phone support, the number is in your manual and you should call for some advice on how to move your stuff. In addition if you haven't already here are some very valuable links for people switching from PC's to Mac and also on learning Mac basics.
Switch 101
Mac 101
Anatomy of a Mac
Regards,
Roger

Why can't I get Pro Tools LE to create a session on my new iMac?

Summary
I can't get Pro Tools LE to open a session on my brand new iMac.
Detail
Pro Tools launches but when I go to create a session it seizes up, the beach ball spins and I have to Force Quit and send yet another note to the Apple teacher. It does this without fail. I've tried to rectify this by saving to different locations and different external hard drives. The problem remains the same.
I've tried uninstalling/reinstalling, stripping the computer of anything that says "digidesign," etc... it doesn't work.
I am using the same Pro Tools with the same OS and the same Digidesign hardware on a MacBook Pro without a problem. Go figure.
_*The Kit*_
_The Troubled Computer_
iMac
Version: OS X 10.6.1 Snow Leopard
Processor: 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Startup Disk: Macintosh HD
_The Untroubled Computer_
MacBook Pro
Version: OS X 10.6.1 Snow Leopard
Processor: 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 2GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
(the previous model - all aluminium)
_The Digidesign Interface_
MBox2 / USB connection
_The External Hard Drives_
iMac: Maxtor One Touch 4 Plus 600GB / FW800 > FW400 with a converter
MacBook Pro: Maxtor One Touch 4 Plus 750GB / FW400 > FW400
_The Pro Tools LE Software_
Pro Tools LE 8.0.3
I know what you're thinking... Snow Leopard is the problem. Right?
But the MacBook Pro has proven that theory wrong. The marriage between SL and LE8 on that notebook works fine.
As for LE on the iMac... At first it was 8.0.1 but now it is 8.0.3.
I upgraded to the supposedly Snow Leopard compatible Pro Tools LE 8.0.3 (pre-release) thinking that just maybe SL and LE8 weren't having as much fun together in the iMac bed as they were in the MacBook Pro. The result was identical -- stuck in Nowheresville.
I've been to the Digidesign discussion boards and the best I've been told so far is that my 3 day old iMac is a dud. On the other hand, away from Digidesign intoxication, some of the pros in the biz around town have said it's probably Pro Tools. Pro Tools they say is, at best, troublesome.
I'm planning on bailing out of Pro Tools altogether eventually and moving to an Apogee Duet with Nuendo 4 as I'm annoyed that I spend more time as an amateur paint-by-numbers technician than actually doing the job I'm paid to do. I'm also unhappy with expensive upgrades, lost paid for plugins due to upgrades and being railroaded into buying Avid gear only as demanded by the software.
But, in the meantime... I'm stuck with it. My own suspicions are that the cause of my troubles is the external hard drive and the FW400>FW800 conversion configuration but I'm not about to blow a few hundred bucks for a new hard drive based on a hunch that may not work. Your thoughts?
Any suggestions other than anything that involves screwdrivers and a cavalier mindset with the just out of the box hardware by a complete novice such as I are most welcome.
Thanks.

Hi
I have the same problem.
First I tried PT8LE 8.0 - didn't even start, afterwards i tried 8.0.3pr (1.25GB) - the same result. Now I downloaded the 8.0.3 normal (1.6GB) and it starts, but after I get to open/create new session dialogue box it just gives me the beach ball of death...
When I force quit PT it won't even start again and gets stuck at loading plugins (and there are just the bundeled one, no third party - it's a clean install of the whole machine).
I too have a week old 27" imac i5 with 10.6.2. On my old 24" with 10.6.1 it's runnig smoothly.
My external drives were off during this so I guess it's not a thing of the FireWire ports.
So I guess it's nothing positive or helpful, but You're not alone with this

I've Just migrated my mac to a new iMac and CS5 is dead

I've Just migrated my mac to a new iMac and CS5 is dead, I can't uninstall it or do anything with it. When I try to load an application it just crashes (I'm guessing because it needs registering on my new machine) and I can't uninstall it.
I've been using CS5 for the past three years, and contemplating getting Creative Cloud. The problem is, it looks like I didn't every properly register CS5 with my Adobe ID, the software package was a download from a thrid party seller, and the email account the sent all the registration info to is no longer in use. . .
When I try to use Application Manager to uninstall it just tells me I need application manager and gives me a link to Adobe's website to download it. I download it, install it, try again, same result, tells me I need to download it. . .
Frustrating.
Any help greatly appreciated, I'm currently completely stuck!

Reinstall properly.
Direct Download Links for Adobe Software
Mylenium

My cursor is stuck on new Imac

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