My new MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming question

Hello MSI forums ,
I'm building a gaming system for my son. The MB i picked was the MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming and it just arrived from newegg. Just a quick question.
The MB arrived w/ out shrink wrap and the MB itself seems to be slightly warped or curved. Is this normal? I purchased a MSI Z77A-GD65 a few months ago for myself and I can't remember if it had shrink-wrap on it or not but I'm sure I didn't see any warping on the GD65.
Anyway, over the last two months I've build two complete systems all from newegg and i haven't had one issue, so good luck for me so far.
thanks!

Not even a security flap or tab seal on any of mine, so no shrink wrap I can recall. Slight curve should pose no problem once it is tightened down in the case.

Similar Messages

Help with OCing my MSI Z77a-G45 gaming with i7 2600k

Hi there its been awhile since ive done OC since my old intel e8400 and everything looks different now..i just recently bought a brand new Msi Z77a-G45 gaming MB and i7 2600k for good deal and would like to push my limits on this setup
Currently setup:
intel i7-2600k
8gb ddr3-1600 gskill ripjaw X Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL
MSI Z77a-G45 gaming motherboard
Antec Hcg-750 PSU
Evga gtx670 single card
my old rig Corsair H50 for now waiting on my custom built water cooling
i know i tried using the OC genie to test out their OC setting which gave me 4.2ghz with 1.336vcore and friend told me thats kind of high for a 4.2ghz?
any help will be good step by step. my goal for now is to reach like 4.4-4.5ghz until i get a better cooling system

Alrighty, appreciate the info; gonna back down to 4.4Ghz as I can maintain stability with 1.275 vcore in bios = 1.26 in windows = 1.24 under load resulting in hottest core never exceeding 70...was really hoping for 4.7-5.0Ghz overclock when most everyone who reviewed this chip in the early days was claiming such great overclocks with such low voltage. But I'll chalk that up to either misinformation or non stability checked overclocks, I guess I'm old school; cause if it can't hold up to a minimum 24hr pass of Prime 95 small fft's it isn't stable in my book. Might consider delidding it in a year or so once the new wears off, I had my i7 920 for about that long before I lapped it into a mirror shine lol. So based on my new information 3770k's on average overclock between 4.4-4.6Ghz and can require up to 1.4 vcore and higher past 4.6Ghz which is where you start to really become thermally limited on liquid as the Ivy Bridge's 22nm technology puts the cores to closely together in combination with intel's cheap ass thermal compound solution. Maximum recommended voltage for 24/7 shouldn't exceed 1.4 vcore without some kick ass cooling or a combination of delidded processor and kick ass cooling cause ideally you want your cores mid 70's and below...that about sum it all up?

MSI z77a-G45 Gaming 3770k overclocking?

I just recently purchased the z77a-G45 Gaming mobo and a i7 3770k, most of my googling would leave me to believe that the 3770k can easily obtain 4.6Ghz with fairly low voltages like 1.16-1.20 vcore; here comes the question...in order for me to obtain some level of stability @ 4.6Ghz I must crank my vcore to 1.4150 with 100% cpu offset resulting in a 1.39 vcore in windows with a 1.38 vcore under load. I have all power saving technologies disabled, pll overvoltage enabled, cpu vdroop offset set to 100%; my question is am I missing something with MSI boards as this is the first one I've ever owned or did I just get a very power hungry 3770k?
General system specs
MSI z77a-G45 Gaming MOBO
i7 3770k CPU
16Gb of Gskill Trident X 2400mhz memory
Corsair HX850 Gold PSU
MSI GTX 670 PE OC
Cooled by custom water loop

Alrighty, appreciate the info; gonna back down to 4.4Ghz as I can maintain stability with 1.275 vcore in bios = 1.26 in windows = 1.24 under load resulting in hottest core never exceeding 70...was really hoping for 4.7-5.0Ghz overclock when most everyone who reviewed this chip in the early days was claiming such great overclocks with such low voltage. But I'll chalk that up to either misinformation or non stability checked overclocks, I guess I'm old school; cause if it can't hold up to a minimum 24hr pass of Prime 95 small fft's it isn't stable in my book. Might consider delidding it in a year or so once the new wears off, I had my i7 920 for about that long before I lapped it into a mirror shine lol. So based on my new information 3770k's on average overclock between 4.4-4.6Ghz and can require up to 1.4 vcore and higher past 4.6Ghz which is where you start to really become thermally limited on liquid as the Ivy Bridge's 22nm technology puts the cores to closely together in combination with intel's cheap ass thermal compound solution. Maximum recommended voltage for 24/7 shouldn't exceed 1.4 vcore without some kick ass cooling or a combination of delidded processor and kick ass cooling cause ideally you want your cores mid 70's and below...that about sum it all up?

MSI Z77A-G45 GAMING SERIES ---RAM---

I am looking at buying and building a new computer, and when I looked on the MSI test results for RAM, I did not find the RAM I was after, so I am wondering if the RAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R (manufacturer's code) would work... i am also wondering if MSI themselves MAY be able to test this RAM as there does not seem to be much suggesting that it would not work.
Link to the RAM if the manufacturer's code doesn't work
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/8gb-%282x4gb%29-corsair-ddr3-vengeance-racing-red-pc3-12800-%281600%29-non-ecc-cas-9-9-9-24-xmp-15v

Quote from: lizardomatt on 22-May-13, 01:12:11
I am wondering if the RAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R (manufacturer's code) would work..
Corsair recommends this 8GB kit for MSI Z77A-G45:
http://www.corsair.com/us/vengeance-low-profile-8gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cml8gx3m2a1600c9.html

Need some help with MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming Motherboard

Hey guys I want to buy the z77a-g45 gaming Motherboard.
but i dont now if i could use my RAM that i own now. could you help me out.
My ram is: Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 4x4GB

As said before:
Quote from: flobelix on 21-October-13, 04:11:33
None the less that Corsair kit should work although a 4x4GB kit is not optimal for a dual channel system (as 2x4 or 2x8GB would be ideal). That matched 1.5V kit should none the less work.

Re: No boot no bip no screen with new MSI Z87 G45 Gaming

What did finaly fix your problem ?
Here same issues, same keys. :
MSI z87-g45 gaming
hd7970mhz
2x4gb ram 1600 hyperx
850 thermaltake
120gb ssd samsung
system boots 5-10second, no display, close, reboot and stays on, no display.

With a single stick of the working ram installed, run memtest then flash the bios to the latest:
>>BIOSes<<
Memtest is included with the forum flash tool.
>>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<

I recieved a new faulty MSI Z87 G45 Gaming Motherboard ?!

Hello,
I ordered an MSI Z87 G45 Gaming Motherboard a couple of days ago and received it. 3 Days ago I received my power supply so I could start to build my gaming build. Once I wanted to put my CPU into the CPU slot on my MSI Z87 G45 Gaming motherboard I noticed that the CPU slot had bents on it. I quickly contacted my seller and he told me to contact MSI Support since they have this covered. Please can someone help me sort this out.
Best Regards

Quote from: xmad on 20-December-13, 10:35:10
If you are in the UK, the reseller needs to handle the RMA. I would recommend calling the re-seller back and raising cain with them until they take it back.
As for repairing the pins, it is usually fairly simple. A bright light and eyeglass screwdriver usually does the trick.
Thanks again xmad,
But I think I would rather replace the motherboard since it may have problems later. You never know why the cpu slot was damaged in the first place, maybe other components are also affected..
Regards

MSI Z87 G45 GAMING erratic BSOD/freeze @ 2300, stable @1600. Can't solve.

Hi All,
I would welcome some advice. I am about 4 months into a new machine build:
* MSI Z87 G45 GAMING motherboard
* i7-4770K Haswell 3.5 GHz & aftermarket heatpipe cooler
* 4 x 4Gb G.Skill SNIPER DDR3-2133 PC3-1700 (F3-17000CL11D-8GBSR)
* GeForce GTX 650 Ti w/ 2 Gb Video RAM
* Samsung 840 Pro 256 Gb SSD
* Thermaltake 700W Toughpower
* Win 7 Pro 64-bit SP1
The system seems to run fine at the default 1600 MHz RAM speed, however if I implement either of the X.M.P. profiles (which kick the memory speed up to the RAM's advertised speed of 2133 MHz), the system will occasionally (every 8 to 48 hours) freeze or BSOD. The BSOD stop codes are inconsistent in number (0x00, 0x41, 0x1E, 0xC4) and driver. When the system freezes, there is no consistent behavior. I am not doing any other overclocking besides using the X.M.P. profile in the memory.
RAM timing on the 2133 X.M.P. profile is: 11-11-11-30.
I have updated the BIOS to 1.5, including the ME, and updated all drivers in the system. All irrelevant hardware and drivers are disabled. Also I have done the following:
* MemTest+ 5.01 for over 30 hours, all 4 sticks in. No errors.
* Intel BurnTest on 'Very High', 10 passes, no errors
* Prime95 for over day with 90 C CPU temps constantly being hit. No errors.
* Unigine Valley Benchmark for 30 minutes; no issues
I increased V_DRAM from 1.60V (from the XMP profile) to 1.65V, and I also added +0.10V offset to increase the CPU I/O ANALOG , CPU I/O DIGITAL and SYSTEM AGENT voltages. Didn't seem to help. All other CPU voltages are default from [auto].
I rolled the memory speed back to the default 1600 MHz, and the system seems stable as a rock.
I don't really need to have the memory run at 2133 MHz, but it irks me that the system is not stable with the rated components, and I'm befuddled why the stress tests seem to pass just fine, then the system will randomly hang with arguably a far less demanding load than the stress tests.
Note that I have not yet:
* reset the CMOS when changing to X.M.P. Perhaps I should?
* reseated the graphics card or CPU. The latter will require R/R of the thermal grease, which I will do if needed, but it's a pain. Since the system is stable at 1600 MHz, I assumed that all basic systems are working as they should.
* Tried to work my way up in memory speed step by stem from 1600 to 2133 to see where things fall apart.
* Tested the video memory
I suspect main system memory, despite the clean bill of health from MemTest, and based on many of the comments to others with similar problems from the veterans on this board. I don't want to push the CPU voltages too much above the default/auto values, for fear of damage and reduced lifetime.
Also, the power supply is a nice unit from an older high-end gaming rig. It is rated at 700W. The PS does probably have over 30,000 hours on it (24/7 use for 3-4 years), however. Strange that it would work at 1600 MHz fine, and with only slightly more power load at 2133. I suppose stranger things have happened.
I've read the suggestions to run only 2 sticks, rather than 4, but I can't justify dropping $140 on new memory (I don't really need the extra speed benefit, it's more curiosity and just not knowing at this point).
Anyway, perhaps more seasoned souls than I can share their thoughts. The system is perfectly usable at 1600, but I'd really like to know where the lockups are stemming from. Troubleshooting is maddening because of the inconsistency in the long times before failure and lack of repeatability to reproduce the issue.
Thanks in advance for your time.
-Paul

Thank you both for the prompt replies. I'm learning a lot.
Turns out I also found this from G.SKILL in going over reviews of the memory modules I have. Another user had a similar configuration as mine and was having similar problems. G.SKILL replied:
Quote
We are sorry to hear you were unable to get two kits working in the same system. It is not guaranteed two kits can operate at the rated specifications since they were not pre-matched, tested, and guaranteed at factory. With multi-channel motherboards, perfectly matching memory is necessary to achieve high frequency. This is why we must offer high capacity 32GB, 64GB kits, otherwise we can just sell one module at a time and have you purchase as many as you need. Unfortunately, memory does not work that way. If you purchase a 16GB kit rated at DDR3-2133, you should have absolutely no issues. For any further questions or concerns, please feel free to contact us directly for assistance.
Thank you
GSKILL SUPPORT
Not knowing any better, I simply purchased two "kits" of 2x4 GB each and installed them. Perhaps worse, if the modules were matched, I may well have mixed them up so the matched modules don't even sit in the same channels 1/3 or 2/4. G.SKILL seems to have a pretty responsive board, so I'll ask them what they suggest.
Also in the end, I really just want a stable machine. This is a basically an office/engineering machine. My initial thinking was that if the system was unstable at 2133 then there is something wrong with it that needs to be fixed. It sounds instead like getting to 2133 is not guaranteed, and is much more of an art than simply throwing the modules in and powering up the system.
I'm perfectly happy at 1600 knowing the system is stable. Indeed realizing now that 2133 requires overclocking, I may well have backed off to 1600 even if everything had worked just fine at 2300, just to trade extra stability for the (small) performance improvement that I would likely never notice anyway.
I'll put together a post for the G.SKILL forums, and if I get anything useful I'll post what I learn here for completeness.
Thanks again for the fast and informative replies. It's much appreciated.
Best,
-Paul

MSI Z77A-G45 and Samsung 840 Series weirdness

Ok so here's the thing
about a week ago i decided that it was time to build a new computer with a Z77A-G45 motherboard
put it together, installed windows 7 64-bit and everything was working just fine - for about 5 days -
but then one morning when i turned on my computer it decided not to boot and just sat there with fans running with an A2 code at the bottom left of the screen
i tried taking out the ram leaving just 1 in and moving it to different slots and trying a different ram block boots thinking it might be faulty ram,
when that didn't work i tried removing the graphics card and boot with just the onboard VGA, reset the CMOS jumper, and even replaced that battery on the motherboard thinking the shop might have shipped an almost dead one, took everything apart and booted it outside the case on a glass surface to make sure it wasn't some sort of short
but the only time it actually wanted to get past the A2 code was when i booted with only 1 of my hard drives, so i started changing my drives around using various combinations of SATA cables and ports (luckily had an extra 5 SATA cables lying around)
eventually i narrowed it down to it wanting to boot with 2 of my 3 drives but the 3rd one (a Samsung 840 series 500 GB SSD, that has no system files or anything fancy other then music, movies and a few games at the moment) getting it stuck on the A2 code
so i set it up as an external USB drive with a SATA/USB converter i had sitting around but then it would get stuck on B4 instead if i booted with the drive connected
however everything would work just fine if i connected the drive after the system had booted up (or even just unplugging and replugging it when it got stuck on the B4)
once back in windows with the drive connected i ran all the diagnostics i could think of but nothing showed anything wrong with it
(and the only thing i had done with the drive before it stopped wanting to boot was to defrag it)
eventually i decided to copy all the files from the drive to a different drive and reformat it as sort of a hail-mary
and to my surprise that actually made it boot up just fine
so i moved it back inside the case as a normal drive just to make sure it would still work (which it did) and then moved all the files back to see if any of them were the culprit - that turned out not to be the case however
it booted up without complaint with all the original files on it
so now my question is why?
what the heck is going on?
did defragging cause some sort of data fault that caused the bios to not be able to read the drive properly or did i just buy a haunted computer?
like i said everything is back in the state it was the day before it didn't want to boot and bios and been defaulted so it's not really an issue at the moment but I'd still like to know what's going on so i can hopefully avoid it in the future
any answers or comments will be appreciated
for your reference a full parts list:
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G45
Bios Version: 2.10
Graphics card: Club3D GeForce GTX 550ti 2GB
PSU: Corsair TX 950W - 100-240V ~ 12A 50/60Hz
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K / 3.5 GHz Processor (Stock boxed fan)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance - 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) - DIMM 240-pin - DDR3 - 1600 MHz ( PC3-12800 )
HDD: OCZ-Vertex2 128GB SSD (OS)
Hitachi HDS722020ALA330 2TB HDD (Media/Backup)
Samsung 840 Series 500GB SSD (Media/Backup)
OS: Windows 7 64bit Ultimate

This is strange
I have Z77A-G43, and have exactly the same problem with one 1GB sata drive, that works just fine in every other PC.
In my case PC run into restart loop, but with same code A2 as yours.
Strangest part was PC was restarting even if I put HDD into PCI Sata/Raid card !?
So I am guessing here its not a hardware problem, but a software (BIOS) problem.
Now whole pc with Z77A-G43 is at Service because of faulty DVI output (not working).
Will try reformating drive, but need first to buy >1gb hdd to backup that one
Drive is currently working just fine in this 10y old MSI PC =.=
It seams they have stopped making things as they used to, this old mb is one durrable dog.
which was the main reason I went to same company when in question was mb...

MSI Z97-G45 GAMING Sata controller performance

Hello
I have an question about the Intel Z97 Express Chipset Sata 6gb controller on my MSI Z97-G45 GAMING motherboard.
Is there any difference between the sata ports performance that can make different results when testing the hard drives. I have an Seagate 3Tb HDD and an WD RE 3Tb HDD and the Segate seems faster. When testing the drives with the manufacturers test suites Seagate takes about 1min to test and WD takes 2min to test and in HD Tune Pro Segate shows a faster speed and a more even curve.
Could this big difference between the harddrives be affected with which sata port that is being used or are the all the same?
Thanx
Niklas

Im quite sure my sata cables in my new computer says 6gb on it but im not 100 sure. Im using Asus black Sata cables with black/white connector and the Sata cable included with the motherboard. So there should not be any problem.
From reading this test it seems there no difference between 6gb and 3gb cables as long as they are high quality cables from known manufacturers. I only own Asus red 3gb cables in my old computer and black/white Asus 6gb cables and the ones included with the modtherboard in my new computer.
Sata II vs Sata III cable test:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/SATA-cables-Is-there-a-difference-97/

MSI Z77A G45 support for Corsair kit 8GB

Hello, I'm new in this forum. I'm going to buy the MSI Z77A G45. And I have already the Corsair kit of 8GB (2x4) cmz8gx3m2a1600c8r. I didn't found the compatibility of this ram on the checklist online with the G45 motherboard. I found only the compatibility with cmz8gx3m2a1600c9, it is similar the only difference is the CL9 and the CL8.
The question is the cmz8gx3m2a1600c8r is compatibile with the G45
Thanks

In general, corsair ram is almost always compatible and highly recommended.
Most ddr3 will work.

MSI Z87-G45 Gaming, sound from USB mouse?

Hi!
I have some issue from my new computer, see spec below.
For the information I have a MSI Z87-G45 motherboard.
I have some sound that occurs sometimes (specially during the first 2-5 minutes) when i move the mouse around.
It occurs as well sometimes when I been using the computer for a while, basically random just more frequently at the start-up.
It's hard to know from where the sound occurs, could be PSU but today I read something on another forum about the motherboard I'm using:
- Higher sound quality using USB, thanks to special adapted current power.
So i wounder if this can be the case? Is that the reason why i get this noise from inside the computer?
Is there some way to disabled this "feature" in BIOS?
Greetings
|Asus 24" LED VG248QE 144HZ (2st) | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB PhysX CUDA | Intel Core i5-4670K | MSI Z87-G45 Gaming, Socket-1150 | Corsair SSD Force Series GS 240GB 2.5" | Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl | Crucial DDR3 BallistiX Tactical 16GB | Corsair TX 850W PSU | Noctua NH-U14S CPU Kylare | CM Storm QuickFire TK Keyboard Brown | Ace Laser Gaming Mouse EDGE 3200 | QPAD XXXL |

The sound sounds like the old mechanics hdd kinda.
It comes inside the computer, not the speakers.
My feelings is that it can be the PSU as well, just wanted to check this first, since it most often comes when i move my mouse.

MSI Z97-G45 Gaming can not POST or enter BIOS but has display

Hi
First post here and sadly a technical one. I just bought the following hardware:
- MSI Z97-G45 GAMING MoBo (no idea on BIOS since I cannot enter it at all)
- Intel Core i5 4690K s1150
- 16GB (2x8GB) Patriot Viper 3 Black Mamba 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Dual/Quad Channel Kit [PV316G160C9K]
- Corsair CX750M PSU
and installed the hardware with the following old hardware that I am carrying over:
- 2 X Hitachi 1TB Sata HDD
- 2 X GTX 275 SLI
To begin with, my existing drives were setup as RAID 0 and has a installed Windows 7 64-bit on there already. I unregistered the Product key before taking it all apart with the idea of registering it again once the new hardware was all together.
So basically, when I received all the new parts yesterday and put them all in. Upon powering on, I see the MSI Dragon logo fullscreen with the option to press DEL or F11. I let it continue without pressing any key to see how it goes. After the dergaon logo, all I get is "Missing Operating System" at the top which did not really worry me and I assumed it would be realted to the Raid not setup (right?)
So I rebooted the PC and decided to press DEL to enter BIOS. However, every time I want to enter the BIOS the screen turns black! The display is still functional though from what I can tell (the display does not lose signal).
Following that, I reset the CMOS from behind by pressing the button with a pen tip. Starting the PC again now gives me a display of all my hardware that it detected (correct CPU, Correct amount of ram, correct HDD etc...). It also gives me two options... F1 to Enter setup or F2 to Continue. Pressing F1 displays the text "Entering Setup..." at the bottom but again it fails to enter the BIOS (it freezes on the above screen - does not turn black this time) and choosing F2 to Continue freezes as well.
I have tried to boot up with the following changes:
- No GPU and use on board VGA only
- One stick of ram in multiple slots
- No HDDs connected at all
- I've checked the CPU to make sure no bent pins
- Reconnected the PSU cables into the motherboard
I should also mention that when I test it on the bare minimum (CPU, PSU, 1 stick of ram) I get A9 in the lower corner before the dragon logo appears.
Right now I am out of ideas and any suggestions would be helpful or at least some insight in what problems I described may indicate. Thanks!

Quote from: Bernhard on 08-July-14, 19:43:46
Can you post your board's serial number. This contains the manufacture date. From that one could deduce the BIOS version on that board.
As for the windows installation from your previous system, you would be very lucky if you were able to boot with that. Perhaps force safe mode if and when you are able to boot, and then try installing the new drivers. The problem is that with the old drivers still in the boot menu, you are probably heading down a slippery slope trying to re-use it. A clean installation would be advised.
Whatever is on the HDD now should however not prevent you from getting into the BIOS.
The fact that your CPU is recognised by its make doesn't mean that its supported. The CPU ID is probably read by the BIOS, but the microcode of the CPU may be missing in the BIOS support. I am trying to think of possible reasons here, and these are just some of my current ideas as to why you may not be able to get into the BIOS.
Have you tried your MB outside the case yet, i.e. on a non conductive surface, i.e. wood or cardboard to eliminate any chances of a potential short?
Also, you may want to check your CPU seating again and carefully inspect the CPU socket pins to ensure that none were bent or are not making proper contact
Yep here is the serial number: 601-7821-050B1405415963
Yeah I didn't really expect to have too much luck with the original windows 7 installation but I had no choice since my last computer failed to power on (faulty PSU I suspected).
However, as you also mentioned, I do not think it would prevent me from reaching the BIOS setup.
Hopefully the above serial can make some sense for you but I do recall some sort of date after a CMOS reset at the top... I think it was 21 April or May 2014 or so. This was next to the following: E7821IMS v2.0.
Once I get home, I will try a few things like you suggested but trying to get as much info as I can before I get home so I have a few things to try.
Thanks again!
EDIT - as a side note, I also contacted the Online Retailer I got it from and the first response from them was that the DEBUG "A9" code meant it was the RAM not fully inserted. That is another thing I have to be 100% sure of but I am fairly sure it was fully clicked in on both sides... but you never know!

MSI Z87-G45 Gaming not entering setup or boot menu

Please someone help, I am getting no setup or boot menu, case & CPU fans come on, drives come on, led's come on, but blank screen.
I took out the graphic card & ram sticks, pulled the plug for leds & case fans, took all cables off HDD's, now only cpu & one stick of ram in dimm 2 connected + power switch.
plugged vga cable direct in MB, blank screen, then plugged cable in MB HDMI, blank screen.
tested monitor, ram & power supply in my sons computer which is a x58 LGA1366, all worked well.
I have no means of testing motherboard or cpu.
specs:
MB: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming
CPU: i5-4670k
RAM: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 1866MHz 9-9-9-27 1.5v
PSU: Corsair CS650M
I also tried another PSU a Thermaltake AP850W
P.S.
I have reset all i.e. pulled plug, taken battery out, pressed reset & shorted the two reset pins next to battery.

newer board are different they need at least a CPU to even show a code as they use that to activate the BIOS and if they do not have that it will FAIL to post anything as the board is used as a backbone as nearly all the important stuff is on the CPU itself (Processor, IMC, SATA controller, Network Controller, VRM (on Haswell), GPU and many other things) so it will fail to post as before it was only a processor but now there more of a system on chip really and has most of the important stuff that used to be on the Board itself so without that the Motherboard is just an electrical plane with impressively limited connections as all the good stuff is now on the Processor that you do not have!
There is not much that you can tell till you at least get that CPU as the board has nothing to work with as there is nothing to process the signals from the BIOS so its just a useless item so shows nothing.

Error 55 Msi Z77A-GD65 Gaming

Hi guys,
I'm new in this forum..
I bought a new mainboard this is: MSI Z77A-GD65 Gaming.
My components are:
Intel i5 3570K
Asus Geforce 660 2GB
Ram Kingston Hyperx 2x4GB 1866Hz
The problem is, when i started for the first time the PC i read in the display "Error 55", I tried with the RAM in dual channel (1:2)(1:3)(2:4)(3:4) and in single channel with only 1 ram.
What I can do now?Have you already reported this problem? I can't even get into the bios, in practice, I was not able to turn it on the PC.
For more info you can contact me. Thanks and let me know as soon as possible pls.

Do >>Clear CMOS Guide<< with power cord removed, if no change, try with another and different type of RAM.
consult with memory support test list from msi web page

My new MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming question

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