New battery failure
I just got a newly refurbished ipod classic 7th gen 120gb. I have had it for about three weeks and the battery is not working correctly. I charge it for hours then the battery is never charged past 50%. It drains in half an hour. It has been in my car when its coldm but its not under the temperature specified by apple. Plus, the battery has not returned to working order after warming up. The seller claimed to have a new battery. Is it just faulty? Do I need to get a new one or am I doing something wrong? Not sure if this matters or not but i have it play when I sleep, so it continually charges every night.
It was from the exact same version HotSync.
I don't use the Palm Desktop.
I did solve the problem though after 2+ hours.
1) I synced the Tungsten, creating a new user, with blank data.
2) I then simulated a dead battery by doing a hard reset on the Tungsten.
3) I then substituted my new blank data folder (under My Documents/Palm OS Desktop/(hotsync name) with my old data folder, from my back-up hard drive.
4) I then did a hotsync, which now had the Hotsync name to choose, and sensing that it was a blank Tungsten, all old data was reinstalled.
5) Thanks for the help
Post relates to: Treo 680 (Cingular)
Similar Messages
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Battery failure although my battery doesn't fit the exchange program?
hello there!
i know there have been a lot of threads about the battery life and failures in the macbook pro but i don't know which one fits my case...
my mbp is a week 13 and has no problems at all. i don't use the battery that often - by now i have 14 cycles.
my battery's serial number doesn't fit the exchange program but today happened this odd thing:
i used my mbp on battery for less than two hours and the battery symbol said that i still have about 50 minutes of battery power. all of a sudden it turned off (as described in many other threads) without any warning and i couldn't turn it on without plugging in the power cable. when i turned it on it started from deep sleep mode (dimmed desktop).
...of course i did reset the pram and stuff - but what is going on? as i said i don't meet the exchange program for faulty batteries but still it doesn't seem to work proper.
what can i do?
thanks in advance, guys!
j.hi and thank you all for your replies so far!
over the weekend i took some screenshots showing the various total of mAh. i have no idea if that is normal like this? and the battery is behaving normal again, no random shutdown... you can find the images under the following link...
http://www.propaganda-pixel.de/mbp/mbp.htm
in addition i added a photo of my magsafe... now that it comes to the battery issue i got slightly concerned if this crimpy cord should be like this (not that this thing starts to melt on me!).
when i transport my mbp i wind the cord around those two hooks and i never pull the magsyfe by the cord out. but still it looks like this.
the power cord is from a week 10 macbook pro which i got exchanged for a week 13 but i had to keep the cord...
i know, this has nothing to do with the battery issue and no, i'm not paranoid - just now that i started this thread i thought i could add it...
so my questions are:
- shall i request a new battery considering the various mAh indications?
- shall i request a new power cord? or does mine look normal?
why i ask is because i don't want to request something when there is no need for a replacement.
thank you all! -
my i phone 4 cannot charge continously. it will charge then after few seconds its off then charge again. I cannot open it because it runs out of battery do i need a new battery?please help.
You could always check to make sure itunes is updated to 10.7 but im sure gdgmacdude is
right.
thanks
gdgmacdude
Hey dude
are there anymore hardware failure errors u know of
im kinda a novice apple man and could use all the help i can get
capp -
New battery for Black Macbook A1181
A buddy of mine needs a new battery for his Black 13" Macbook. The model is A1181.
There are some Anker batteries on Amazon.com for $62.99 with free shipping which seems like a great price. The only problem is they don't ship to Canada... So I obviously cannot buy one.
The Apple replacement batteries have terrible reviews and are outrageously price so forget that.
What options do I have? OWC? Any recommendations?And for the cost of a new battery, you could likely get the logic board checked and the defective solder joint fixed.
Good battery story. In an as-new iBook G4 bought online from Apple Store, I returned new batteries under the/then battery replacement program. Mine had no sign of failure or defect. The two new replacements were cycled in use so they were about equal in use.
These are like produce and do not store well if not exercised. Anyway, these replacements failed to retain a useable portion of their battery life cycles in as little as 55, each; no matter the various well-known hoops a user can push their portable and its batteries through.
So, I'm looking at a battery from OWC because there are few other sources as the hardware goes antique on me. And am looking at a SSD for that last-model iBook 12" but doubt the upgrade is worth it. And also have a MacBook 13" coreduo, G4 mini, & others.
{the portable was bought to use while endless repair attempts were made on an iMac under warranty failed to bring it up to servicability and I'd already donated away a nice working Mac on arrival of my first Apple under AppleCare. Sadly, no authorized service in my state at the time existed that could fix it. It's dead, too}
Anyway, you get what you paid for, depending on what you pay for in addition to what you get. Express shipping got the warranty papers in a box the next day, but they forgot to ship the computer, it took a month from Apple since it was sent eventually by slow ground via Canada. The route that broke earlier new Macs.
So the OWC battery looks fairly good, at a distance.
Never did any business with them so far.
Good luck & happy computing! -
Premature CMOS 2032 Battery Failures
There have been many reports in this forum lately concerning premature CMOS 2032 battery failures.
If there truly is a common CMOS battery problem with MSI systemboards
we need to start to find the solution by identifing what vendors battery is failing and on what boards.
My mobo is MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum (G52-M7125X1)
My original CMOS battery was a KTS Lithium CR2032
It lasted about 1 month then the systemboard failed to POST.
I replaced it with a Energizer Lithium 2032
It has worked for a week so far.
The 2032 is a Lithium-Manganize Dioxide 3.0 Volt Button Battery.
It is designed not for recharging.
Life expectancy is least 2 to 4 years
A new 2032 battery unused and right out of the package measures 3.26Volts DC.
The new 2032 battery in the motherboard with AC power on, measures 2.97 Volts DC.
A defective KTS CR2032 battery out of the motherboard for days measures 2.97 Volts DC.
A defective KTS CR2032 battery in the motherboard with AC power on measures 1.41 Volts DC.
I used a Fluke Series 77 Digital Multimeter for the measurements.
My Phoenix-Award BIOS Version 1.4 - PC Health Status of the good Battery = 1.66 Volts
I have no idea what that means other than the BIOS is not reporting accurate battery voltages.
If you just have to know all there is to know about batteries try these sites:
http://www.buchmann.ca/
Energizer Lithium Photo/Coin Application Manual
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/lithiumcoin_appman.pdf
Energizer Lithium-Manganese Dioxide Battery Datasheet
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/lithiummangdioxide_psds.pdf
Hope this helps...
Bob...Here are some of the Forum's references to CMOS Battery failures...
Please post results of any correspondence with MSI Tech Support concerning this problem so we can share the info.
mbga9pgf
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=68466
mbga9pgf
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=67074
tarheel
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=65599
Heresy
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=68531
tarheel
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=65599
DolphinBay
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=68451
Supershanks
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?action=profile;u=48465
Bob... -
PowerBook G4 probably needs new battery and power jack. Worth the repair?
I have a PowerBook G4 that is about 4.5 years old, with a 1.33 GHz Processor, 512 MB RAM, and a 60 GB HD. I got a new MacBook Pro recently, so I'm trying to sell this old PowerBook, but there are a couple problems with it.
One is that it still has the battery the computer came with, so it's safe to say that it's dead. Another problem is that there's a minor dent on the side by the power jack that makes the interface a bit fussy. Sometimes it needs to be fiddled with to contact correctly. So, in addition to a new battery, the external casing (and/or the DC-in) may need to be repaired, and I know doing so is few hundred dollars. Is it worth it for this computer? It's going on 5 years old, so I'm wondering if other things (like the hard drive), are going to fail soon.Is it worth it for this computer? It's going on 5 years old, so I'm wondering if other things (like the hard drive), are going to fail soon.
Looking at ebay, there are two Powerbook 1.33Ghz models with bids between $185 and $249. If you're looking to sell it, and the hard drive is operating fine now, it's longevity shouldn't be a concern. That said, notebook hard drives do seem to have a higher failure rate the 3-5 year range than desktop drives.
Replacing the lower case, DC-in card, and new battery can run you around $450. You'd almost be better off taking it to Apple, to see if they'd send it to the Apple depot for around $325 to repair the DC-in problem. (I just sent one to the Apple depot for a logic board replacement, and they replaced the battery, too). Even so, you might have difficulty recouping that in a sale.
It does have Leopard, which may help the price you might get when you sell it. -
New battery from Apple is now dead...
A little while back I had some trouble with the battery that came with my black MacBook. I attempted to calibrate the battery per the instructions posted by Apple. After my computer shut down due to low power, I let it sit for a few hours (Apple recommends "5 hours or more"). The calibration information can be found here: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86284
When I plugged in my battery charger, the light on the cable stayed green and did not turn orange, as it normally does when charging the battery. After booting my computer, I noticed a black "X" where my battery life icon normally resides in my menu bar. I tried resetting the PMU and NVRAM to no avail. I tried "re-seating" the battery and nothing. I called Apple and they sent me a new battery which arrived around 11/25/06.
This battery worked flawlessly for a while until today when I decided to calibrate it (hadn't calibrated it yet). I again let it drain and go into sleep mode on its own. I let it set for 5.5 hours after which the power cord was plugged in. The light on the cord stayed green and did not turn orange. When I booted up my computer there was 'again' a black "X" where my battery icon is. I again tried resetting the PMU and the NVRAM but again no luck. Is this normal behavior for a battery to die when drained too much or did I just happen to get two bad batteries? Prior to the calibration attempt, the battery worked like a charm. Has this happened to anyone else? Sorry, this is more of a vent than anything else but I'd be curious to hear other's expeirences with these batteries.
Cheers,
ChrisHas this happened to
anyone else? Sorry, this is more of a vent than
anything else but I'd be curious to hear other's
expeirences with these batteries.
Yes, this just happened to me. My daughter was watching a dvd on my MacBook and it put itself to sleep while she was watching. It then sat overnight. The next day I noticed that the MacBook came out of deep sleep when I restarted, but ever since then I have a large X and "No batteries available" showing in the menu bar. If I remove the powercord while the computer is on, it will shut off.
I've tried resetting the SMU and the NVRAM with no success.
This sounds to me more like a corrupted preference than a hardware failure. Reading similar threads about the problem seems to indicate that a new battery will solve the problem for awhile, but that it will soon come back. The charger light is coming on as a steady green and the computer works fine with the adapter, so I'm pretty confident that it's fine. That would leave either the battery, a software problem, or a deeper problem (many are suggesting a logic board.)
I dread having to call Apple tech support, as I know the rigamarole they'll put me through, treating me as a second class citizen because I haven't purchased Applecare and wanting me to take it to an Apple store, which is more 2-1/2 hours away.
BTW, this is happening with a battery that was carefully calibrated using Apple's specs, which seemed like a ridiculous PITA to begin with. -
New camera dies Rebel t5i with old and new battery
Camera is 12 months old and the original battery appears as if not holding a charge. After charging, the camera will come on and die when pressing the shutter button to take a picture. I purchased a new battery, charged it and the same happens again. Seems that maybe the old battery may not be dead after all. Could this be the charger or is this a camera issue. If a camera issue where do I go to get this looked at. Bought camera at best buy. You think this caliper camera would last longer than a year???
Are there any third party components involved in charging or using your camera? Did you, for example, add a 3rd party battery grip?
I ask, because just occcasionally we'll get this sort of question where the camera fails to perform as expected but the person seeking help didn't mention the 3rd party component. Once we find out about it and eliminate it from the test... suddenly the camera works fine again.
Canon factory batteries tend to last many years assuming you are using the original Canon charger (I do NOT like to use "fast" chargers as they stress the battery trying to charge it in a hurry and shorten it's life.)
When you insert a freshly charged battery and power it up... does the rear LCD screen come to life and, if so, do you see the battery charge level indicator showing that the battery is full?
This may be a problem with the camera itself and/or with one of it's cut-off switches. There are two micr-switches will cause the camera to immediately power down if they are not engaged. One is on the battery compartment door. The other is on the memory card door. If you power up the camera then VERY SLOWLY open these doors, you should find that you can open them about 1mm and then the camera will power off. If you barely touch the door and the camera shuts down, then it may be that you have a bad switch. Make sure the two doors are undamaged and able to close easily without any obstructions (if they aren't fully closed, it would make sense that your camera spontaneously shuts down.)
You may need to contact Canon service for help as there's no "setting" that would make the camera do this. The T5i is a good camera, but it's just possible you have a problem with yours -- it happens and it's not an indicator of low quality. I bought a new car that had a water pump failure within the first 5000 miles (that was a shock) even though everybody else with the same model car didn't have a problem with their water pump. It happens. Could they increase quality control to the point that it'd be very hard to get a car released with a bad water pump? Well... they could improve build standards, testing standards, and inspection standards... that would REALLY drive up the price tag of that car... and just occasionally they'd still get a bad one anyway. You can never get quality to 100% for any product.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da -
I ordered a battery for my laptop because it said to replace battery soon. How long can I let the new battery sit around as I wait for the old one to run out of more charge? Will the new one become less effective if it sits around too long?
How much capacity is remaining on your current battery?
Check your power status
From the menu: Hold OPTION and click System Information... èHardware è Power
Copy and Paste in your reply.
The new battery will become less effective if you store it in a hot or humid environment. It should be stored at room temperature (22 C).
Long term storage (6 months):
Apple recommends that you store the battery with a 50% charge. If you store a battery when it’s fully discharged, it could fall into a deep discharge state, which renders it incapable of holding any charge. Conversely, if you store it fully charged for an extended period of time, the battery may experience some loss of battery capacity, meaning it will have a shorter life.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/ -
A1281 is the battery i got for my 15inch MBP. Is the battery life only 2 - 3 hours for a new battery on this device.
This is from Apple.
2 to 3 hours seems very low.
what is teh standard or advertised spec for a 15 inch Macbook Pro with this battery.
I would like to know so that i can return it if this is not normal.
Its expensive so comments would be appreciated.I say it depends on your model? average usage is about 3-4 hours depending on what you use and how you use it. Adobe Flash player eats a lot of battery power so if you are on a web page and has flash player, likely that it's eating up battery because of it's power thirsty.
Also check your systems activity monitor. It could be possible that one of your program/apps did not close right and may be still running. So check for that and end the process if necessary.
If you have a backlight keyboard, in a broad daylight, it's not necessary to have it on.
I also suggest that you use it plugged in most of the time, and it's not going to hurt or damage the battery if you have it plugged in all the time. Only use on battery if you are going to places that has no access to the outlet. If you are at home, then keep it plugged in. Just keep in mind to fully drain the battery until it your MBP turns off on it's own. This is the calibration process so that you have the most accurate battery readings.
The standard for 2011 MBP is 7 hours on battery. Before that model is 10 hours, but i don't believe that previous models will last 10 hours. Last week I calibrated my battery readings from fully charged and it took 9 hours to completely drain out the battery (I have a 2011 model),
If you think it's not normal and that your battery doesn't meet your expectation then set up an appointment with the genius bar and have them test the battery. They will determine whether it is faulty or not. -
New battery lasts 1.5 hours...
I recently noticed the battery in my 7 month old MBP was not holding a charge for much more than an hour and a half. I took the machine into the Apple store where a Genius said he could find nothing wrong with the battery. He asked me to diminish the brightness of the screen, be mindful of running too many applications at one time and use wi-fi only when necessary. And he told me that the advertised 'up to five hours wireless productivity' for my machine was a 'perfect world' scenario, unlikely to be repeated in the real world. He said I should probably expect 2-3 hours of battery life on a full charge.
Within a few days I was back in the store complaining that after making those adjustments I was still getting the same battery performance...about an hour and a half of wireless internet off a fully charged battery. The same genius I saw previously handed me a new battery and said my problem should be resolved with the new battery.
I went home, calibrated the battery and charged it overnight. The next morning, I disconnected the power adaptor and the computer said the battery was fully charged and had an hour and a half of life...or almost 2 hours when I turned off the wi-fi. And that seems to be about what I am getting...an hour and a half of wireless internet or two hours of word processing. I think that seems really paltry and seem to remember getting about 3.5 hours of time playing a DVD when I first bought the machine.
Can anyone confirm for me whether or not I should be getting more than 1.5 hours of wireless internet or 2 hours of word processing (with wireless turned off)?
Thanks!
Here are the specs for the battery I am using now:
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 5262
Fully charged: Yes
Charging: No
Full charge capacity (mAh): 5519
Health Information:
Cycle count: 3
Condition: Good
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): -3094
Voltage (mV): 12009Yes, you should be getting more battery life than that.
Check Applications > Utilities > Activity Monitor, set the popup to Show: Active Processes and click on CPU to sort. My guess is that there's a background process that's using a fair amount of CPU capacity, which definitely causes the battery to run down faster.
Failed print jobs, certain widgets, etc., are common culprits. If you find something, you can kill it with the Stop button.
Hope this helps... -
I have a MacBook Pro from '07 with 1 GB of memory. The battery is shot and my AppleCare has run out. I just upgraded the OS to 10.6.8. But a few questions:
1 - How do I even check how much memory I have left on this computer?
2 - How do I check how many battery cycles are left?
3 - I want to upgrade to Microsoft Office '11 because I don't have Adobe Acrobat to creat pdf's and I need to be able to do this for school... Instead of buying acrobat, I figured I would just upgrade to Office '11 because I can generate pdf's from Word. Roughly how much RAM does Office '11 take up?
4 - Does Apple still make batteries for this computer (from '07)? How much do they cost?
5 - How much does 1 more GB of memory cost?
AND lastly -- is it even worth it to spend the $ on more RAM, a new battery and Office '11?
Or does it make more sense to just get a new computer entirely? (trying to avoid this).
ANY help would be sooo appreciated! Thanks.1 - How do I even check how much memory I have left on this computer?
If you're asking how to check to see if you need more RAM, open Activity Monitor and go to the System Memory tab, then compare page outs and page ins. If page outs is 10% or more of page ins, you probably need more RAM.
2 - How do I check how many battery cycles are left?
There's no limit on the number of battery cycles, it's just that the more cycles you've used the more "worn out" your battery gets. You've got a 4-year-old machine, and if it's still got the original battery, it's probably about time for a replacement battery. You can check battery health using System Profiler... look at the Power section under Hardware.
3 - I want to upgrade to Microsoft Office '11 because I don't have Adobe Acrobat to creat pdf's and I need to be able to do this for school... Instead of buying acrobat, I figured I would just upgrade to Office '11
You don't need Office 2011 to create PDFs. Any application capable of printing can create PDFs on a Mac. Just choose File -> Print, but instead of clicking the Print button in the print dialog, click the PDF button and choose Save As PDF in the menu that appears.
4 - Does Apple still make batteries for this computer (from '07)? How much do they cost?
5 - How much does 1 more GB of memory cost?
I'll "ditto" sig's answers to these.
AND lastly -- is it even worth it to spend the $ on more RAM, a new battery and Office '11?
Or does it make more sense to just get a new computer entirely? (trying to avoid this).
If Office 2004 is still working fine for you, stick with that and don't incur the costs of Office 2011. As to the RAM, only add more if the test I mentioned above indicates that you need it. If you buy more RAM when you don't really need it, you won't see much (if any) performance improvement. That just leaves the battery... and if the machine is still doing what you need it to do and you don't really need a new machine for anything, you could definitely buy a new battery and get a few more years out of it. -
I have a MBP early 2011 13 inch and do not have Apple Care. After I installed Mountain Lion I noticed the battery health was dropping pretty rapidly, with a service battery warning. I tried resetting the SMC and PRAM and even a clean install. I took it into an Apple store and they said I should have cycled it more, but I could still use it. The health dropped and dropped until a battery would not even be detected. Because Apple would not replace it for me for free and I didn't want to pay for them to do so, I bought my own battery. Once I replaced the battery with the new one, it still says there is no battery connected.
When I detach the battery and then attach it again, the battery indicator lights on the side show 4 dots. When I plugged in the MagSafe connector, the fifth light started blinking (I thought it was charging) and then it went back to all of them blinking indicating no battery detected. The computer also automatically turned on when I connected the MagSafe.
I have tired multiple times to reset PRAM and SMC even after installing the new battery to no avail. I can use the machine with the MagSafe connected, but as soon as the cord is unplugged or bumped, it goes into the emergency sleep mode.
Any thoughts on what might be ailing this not yet two year old machine? My first Mac lasted 7 years before any logic board fail so I hope that is not it. Anything I should try that I haven't yet? Any ideas on what this might cost me through Apple?
Thanks!Why don't you look through this to insure you did everything correctly:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Ba ttery+Replacement/5116/1
Also, where did you get this battery? -
How can i buy new battery for my macBook pro in France
Hello,
Please, someone can tell me how to find and buy new battery for my 2008 macBook pro in France ?
This one is very old, i already changed this battery one time, i think Apple store of town won't be ok to make the work cause i have made it myself one time before (it has fallen several times, almost broken, means impossible to shut the battery place but still working on). So i bought a battery to a third provider, wich doesn't work of course, try to ask to online assistance but i have to pay 30 € just to ask my question and i doesn't want...
SO WHAT IS THE SOLUTION TO CHANGE MY BATTERY ??? HELP !!!
I bought it in 2008. I don't know exactly the serie. Just know it's a 2,4 GHZ Intel Core 2 Duo.
The reference of battery is A1281 10,8V 50 Wh. Can't find it on the store. The only one i found was on a website who didn't tell it's was a fake...
Lost 85 €Here are the International Apple support telephone numbers:
http://support.apple.com/kb/he57
I note Egypt is not listed.
Purchasing a battery from a third party vendor is a high risk proposition. Many such batteries have been found to be substandard.
I suggest that you try and contact Apple and see if you can have one shipped to you.
Ciao. -
I live in Ireland. How can I buy a new battery for my N500?
I need to buy a new battery for my Lenovo 3000 N500. However, in the Ireland section of the Lenovo web site NONE of the dealers have this part in stock. It is in stock on the US and UK sections of the web site, but apparently only people in those countries can buy it on line. I would be prepared to buy it online from the US or the UK and pay the shipping charges to Ireland. In more than 13 years on the web, Lenovo is the first company I've encountered where I haven't been able to use my credit card to purchase an item from the US or the UK. I do this all the time with companies like Land's End, Amazon, James Meade etc etc.
Fine, if I'm not allowed buy from the US and the UK. But at least,then, make sure I have some other way of buying the part - either on line or from a store.According to Apple:
iPod Owners
Your one-year warranty includes replacement coverage for a defective battery. If it is out of warranty, Apple offers a battery replacement for $49 (iPod shuffle), $59 (iPod nano and iPod classic), and $79 (iPod touch) plus $6.95 shipping, subject to local tax. Apple disposes of your battery in an environmentally friendly manner.
URL: http://www.apple.com/batteries/replacements.html
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