One Solution for Hot to touch Issues...

Before I purchased my system I had read tons of reviews and knew there seemed to be an issue with the systems getting excessively hot. I am on my computer Several hours a day. Probably on average 8 - 10 hrs a day; but it is usually turned on as long as I am awake. I also have always used my system in my lap so I am aware how hot a laptop can get.
I have tried a couple of 'coolers' in the past but wasn't impressed. Fan systems seemed to quit working (usually because the cord was so long it would get pulled & eventually die) after a short time & didn't really seem to have a very good fan. Non-fan designs just didn't seem to work very well. I recently bought a Belkin USB fan cooler and it has been great so far. I can't be sure of the durabilty but the design seems to work out well for both lap & table use. The cord is also just the perfect length so it doesn't have room to get caught on anything.
I used it on my old laptop before I got my Lenovo but instantly hooked it up to the Lenovo once I was up and running. The only time the system got hot was when I forgot to plug the cooler in for a couple of hrs while the system was just sitting on not being used. At that point the wrist wrest area seemed too hot to be comfortable to use. Within just a couple of minutes of having the cooler turned back on the system was cool again.
Hope that helps some others having this problem. BTW the cooler was less than $30 and I saw a couple other brands with similar designs. I just recommend that you look for something that leaves room between the pc & the cooler & that doesn't have an excessive cord length.

Thanks for the post, I also got the Belkin and it works great !!

Similar Messages

Easy solution for connecting Zen Touch to P

Hi,
I'm a Mac user, when I want to connect my Zen Touch to any Mac I used "xnjb" a small freeware (.7Mb) that I could run directly from my USB key; It work great, install nothing on the computer and could upload or download any kind of files between the zen and the computer.
I try to find a similar solution for PC without success, I even try to install "JB3MV2_PCWDRV_US__30_03.EXE" on a computer friend; this not the ideal solution because it install something on his computer and even with that installation the window explorer see a USB device but can't read it.
Is some one have a solution similar to what I used on Mac?
Cheers,
Luc

Hi Mosey,
I don't want the new firmware because my Zen touch work good with the old one and the Mac software for the Zen are not supporting the new firmware yet,
Do you have a solution working with the old firmware, even if it's a third party one.
Cheers,
Luc

One Solution for Fixing Slow Wireless Connection

Quick and easy solution for slow wireless connection.
My hardwired PC connection was working fine over FIOS, but my wireless connection through my Macbook Pro was soooo slowwww, although the machine itself was fine. Pages would take forever to appear, then finally sort of pop up. Didn't really seem to be a Mac problem, just a connection problem.
After searching forever to find a fix, I found a quick & easy solution that works at least for now: change your DNS address.
I'm not a techie so I don't know ALL of the implications of doing this, but in desperation, it has worked for me and I think at no risk to your network or machine. Changing my DNS address has made my connection blazing fast and relieved many weeks of frustration.
HOW: I can only share how to change on a Mac. (Please chime in if you can give directions for PC. ) Just go to this Apple support page, which will outline exactly how to do it. I used 4.2.2.2, I think you can also use 4.2.2.1 as the DNS address. http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2002
Other resources I've found follow:
(specific to FIOS): http://www.stationstops.com/2008/04/16/high-speed-internet-3-tips-to-optimize-your-verizon-fios-broa...
(Specific for Mac): http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=358919
Maybe this is a commonly-known fix but it wasn't for me, so hopefully it will help some of the other less-than-technical people out there. Good luck!

Actually this is a common problem with Mac OSX (http://rubyisbeautiful.com/2008/2/8/osx-dns-fix-update) and how it does DNS lookups and pertains to routers that provide the internal gateway (i.e. 192.168.1.1) as the DNS address which is what the ActionTec does by default.
You can change that at the router level to either push out Verizon's dns that the router then uses or any other open dns server. I had to do this a long time ago for some of the OS X boxes on my network.

One solution for Apple TV losing connection to its iTunes Library

In 2012 I bought an Apple TV3 to let me use the AirPlay features of my New iPad with my HD TV. All worked fine and still does. Later in 2012 I subscribed to Netflix and enjoyed streaming movies to my HD TV via the Apple TV. Having had such a good experience with it so far I bought another for our bedroom TV and another for a relative, hoping they would have the same great experience with it.
Both of my Apple TV units at my house have worked flawlessly since installing them. We can start watching a Netflix movie downstairs then go upstairs and carry on where the movie left off.
At my relative's house the experience was not so flawless and has resulted in about 2 months of frustration but happily their AppleTV3 is now also working as expected. It has been quite a journey to get to this point and had a surprising solution.
I am the 'go-to' person in my family for these things so I installed the Apple TV for my relative.
My relative has a Windows XP (SP3) PC running the latest iTunes (11.0.2), a BTHomeHub 2 router, connected by WiFi to the Apple TV. The PC was connected by ethernet cable to the router. I installed the Apple TV, set up the hdmi connection to the HD TV, connected it to the WiFi network, upgraded to the latest iTunes on the PC, added the Apple ID for Home Sharing to iTunes and the Apple TV and could connect to the iTunes library on the PC, all good so far. I could play video or music or podcast or view photos from the iTunes library on the PC but after a short time (a few minutes or so), if I tried to play a different video or music track the I would get the familiar spinning icon and the Apple TV would not play the media file. Often the Apple TV would still show the contents of the iTunes library but would not play anything from it. When it was in this state it was still possible to play iTunes Trailers or Purchased content or a Youtube video or display photos from my library. This proved it was still connected to the internet and to some extent my library on the PC because it could display photos.
Initially I thought it was a WiFi problem as that was how the Apple TV was connected to the router. So as I already had a Powerline ethernet link running from the router to the TV for the Humax Freeview box for the BBC iPlayer, I ordered a small network switch to share the Powerline ethernet cable with the Apple TV. However the same drooping connection problems were apparent. I tried changing the QoS settings on the Powerline link, tried to prioritise TCP or UDP or both , but no improvement. I decided to abandon the Powerline link in case it was 'too slow', perhaps that was the issue.
I tried one of the Apple TV units from my house, where they were working fine and I got the same problem, at my relative's house it behaved like their unit, it would connect play a movie (all the way through if we let it) but after a few minutes if trying to play something else it would not play anything further. I tried their Apple TV at my house and it worked there, so the unit was not at fault.
At various times while troubleshooting these problems I have unistalled iTunes, reinstalled it, uninstalled Bonjour, reinstalled it (it comes with iTunes), searched the registry and cleaned it (Warning: do this at your own risk as you risk destabilising Windows), I have tried disabling my firewall on the PC and/or on the router, uninstalled the Antivirus / Firewall software (Norton) on the PC, I have added the Ports required for the Apple TV to my router and firewall software, I have read many, many forum posts about what has worked for other people and I tried them all in various combinations.
I decided having tried the above that the problem must be the Windows PC, so I swapped it for a few days with a laptop, connected wirelessly to the router. I had an iTunes library on the laptop so I shared it with the Apple TV and stopped iTunes running on my relative's PC. For a few days it actually worked, the Apple TV would play one movie/music track and I could select another and play it after a few minutes, a partial solution had been found except the laptop was needed elsewhere and I wanted the Windows PC to be the source for the iTunes library. I briefly considered suggesting they should buy a modern PC or Mac as their Windows PC was around 9 years old, may be that was the problem? This would have cost around £400+ and was out of the question. Fortunately I had a spare PC and I decided to swap it with the Windows PC, it was only a couple of years old and as such it must be 'better' I thought. Swapping one PC with another and transferring e-mails and documents etc. took quite a few hours but it was done. I uninstalled iTunes, reinstalled it and set up the home sharing again. This second Windows PC was running XP (SP3) and Norton 360 Firewall/Anitvirus software. I checked that after installing iTunes the Program rules in Norton were allowing the TCP and UDP communications expected by the Apple TV, I noted these were not specific ports but all TCP and all UDP communications were allowed. All of this met the recommendations that other posts had suggested. I tried it with the Apple TV but no, exactly the same problem, the iTunes library could not be found after a few minutes.
I found that if I restarted the Apple TV it would connect and play a file (movie/music etc) but if I played an iTunes trailer or just waited a minute or so then it would lose the connection. Another symptom would be when I landed on the 'Compters' icon it would tell me to 'enable home sharing on the PC with this Apple ID' , which I had already done.
If I tried playing via the Apple TV while selecting tracks from within iTunes on the PC, then sometimes the AirPlay icon was present or not present, sometimes worked and would then always not work until I restarted at least iTunes and the Apple TV, if not also the router or PC, whatever I tried it would not result in a connection between the Apple TV and the PC that would survive more than a few moniutes at a time.
Having swapped the Windows PC hosting the iTunes library with another I swapped the Apple TV again with one from my house, again same behaviour. So this suggested the problem was the BTHomeHub router as that was the only bit of hardware not exchanged. I compared its settings with the same unit at my house, I tried forwarding ports, I tried chaging the security from the default 'WPA & WPA2' to WPA or WPA2, still no solution. I tried reducing the default WiFi connection protocol from 802b/g/n to 802/b/g. I tried variations of all the other possible settings that could be changed but in the end set them to match the ones at my house. Still no solution. I considered buying an Airport Extreme or similar to link that via an ethernet cable to the router and enable it to be the WiFi access point for the Apple TV. This would have cost around £80 similar to the cost of the Apple TV itself, so was also dismissed as an idea.
I decided to restore the router to factory settings, this was done and I set up the WiFi connection again to the Apple TV, still no solution, same behaviour on the Apple TV. I decided it must be a problem with the WiFi so I tried a direct ethernet cable trailed through the house from the router to the Apple TV to eliminate the WiFi involvement, that would have to be the answer, wouldn't it? No, same problem.
I discovered some useful diagnostics along the way that are somewhat techie but worth persevering with as they could be useful for diagnosing what the problem could be. Find out on your router what the IP Address is for your computer that is hosting your iTunes library and the IP Address for your Apple TV. The IP address is essential for either device to connect with each other or the internet. The Apple TV IP address can be seen via Settings/General/Network, it has the form like '192.168.1.69' and for the PC it was '192.168.1.80', the values don't have a particular significance but the last digits after the 3rd dot will be different for each device.
On the PC (or Mac), open a Command (PC) or Terminal(Mac) prompt and try to 'ping' the Apple TV to see if you get a response
e.g.
c:\ping 192.168.1.69
or
c:\ping apple-tv
You should get a response indicating the number of milliseconds it takes for the 'ping' to be returned to the PC from the Apple TV , this will show that the PC can connect to the Apple TV, if it does not get a response then you should check that the PC and Apple TV are connected to the same network (either wired or wifi). You must be able to get a successful ping for the connection between the PC and the Apple TV to work at all.
Another diagnostic is to check the network status on the PC (or Mac)
e.g.
c:\netstat -an
This will show all the current TCP/UDP connections and also the local and remote IP addresses and ports. Look for the IP address of the Apple TV in the third column, there will be many rows returned so just concentrate on the rows with the IP addressses of the PC and the Apple TV
e.g. look for rows like the following:
TCP 192.169.1.80:3689 192.168.1.69:49123 ESTABLISHED
UDP 192.168.1.80:5353 *.*
UDP *.123 *.*
TCP Port 3689 is used by the Apple TV to communicate with iTunes for playing content. This connection is essential, there may be more than one 'established' connection to the remote Apple TV from the local PC.
UDP Port 5353 is used by the Apple Bonjour service to send multicast communications between iTunes and any iOS devices on the same network, such as the Apple TV, again it is essential.
Port 123 is used by Apple products to obtain the date and time, the UDP row above shows that any local IP Address can communicate with any remote IP address on the router's network and provide it with date and time information.
If your firewall software on the PC is blocking any of these ports then the 'netstat' command is useful to see if you need to unblock any. In my experience, this port unblocking was not necessary as when I installed iTunes, the Norton software automatically set up appropriate rules for the iTunes program, and opened the required TCP and UDP communications as iTunes needed.
Likewise, on the router itself, I have the UPnP setting enabled and this allows software like iTunes and Bonjour to traverse the router's firewall without it being necesssary to explicitly set the ports to be forwarded.
If I started the Apple TV, and ran the 'netstat -an' command over the next few minutes I could see the number of rows for the Apple TV diminish, and this was a symptom of the dropping connection problem.
Ultimately having replaced the Apple TV with another 'working' one , swapped the PC, restored the router to factory defaults, disabled the Windows or Norton firewall, tried ethernet and WiFi connection between the router and Apple TV it struck me that the only component I had not considered was the insignificant ethernet cable linking the PC to the router. This has been present since the router was installed for the original PC around 4 years ago. But surely this was how the original PC and the swapped in PC were getting to the internet quite normally and successfully? Also this was how the Apple TV was accessing the PC via WiFi then via the router through this ethernet cable, there was no way it could be the cable, cables don't allow a connection for a short time and then cause a timeout can they?. Thus, confused, and with all other avenues explored, I removed the cable between the PC and the router and enabled a WiFi connection from the PC to the router. After restarting the PC, Router and Apple TV, just to be sure, I tried the Apple TV again.
I could play some music on the Apple TV from the iTunes library, I could play it for a minute or so and then go to movies and play a movie from the iTunes library. I tried to play an iTunes trailer, some YouTube videos, these worked as usual. I then went back to the library and yes, I could play another music track or another movie. I forced the Apple TV to 'sleep' via Settings/General/Sleep Now and tried again, I woke it up and could play any music or movie from the library. Elated, I went out for meal with the family, nervously hoping throughout the meal that the solution had been found. After a couple of hours we returned, woke up the Apple TV and yes, oh yes!, it would connect with the library and play a succession of music or videos without seeing any dropped connections. Several hours later I could wake up the Apple TV again and select any content from the iTunes library on the PC and play it, finally the unit is behaving as I would expect.
This solution may not apply for all, but it worth following all of the components in the path between the Apple TV, router, computer (either PC or Mac) and the iTunes library and checking that each is able to commmunicate successfully and over a period of time reliably so that the Apple TV can perform as flawlessly as it is capable of.
Don't, as I did expect the solution to involve a complicated series of special settings of ports or communications protocol changes. Do perform a clean install of iTunes and keep it updated, do keep Firewall settings simple and let the settings be default settings, do rely on UPnP (Universal Plug and Play) on the router. Let the router select which channel it wants to use, it will select the channel with least interference...and check out that insignificant ethernet cable if you have one. It might work fine for general communications from the computer to router to the internet but it can be a source of connections dropping on the Apple TV!
My relative is now a happy Apple TV user too.

Useful to watch what is happening to the TCP/UDP connections when the Apple TV is connected to iTunes and when it is actually playing some media from iTunes and when it stops playing.
To see this, use the Network Statistics command 'netstat' from a Command prompt (Windows PC) / Terminal Window (Mac):
e.g. for Windows:
c:\netstat -an 5
This repeats the netstat command every 5 seconds, use Ctrl-C to quit the command. (Use 'netstat -h' for help with this command)
While iTunes is running there will be a number of TCP records displayed for the computer's IP address using port 3689, showing at least 3 ports in use for the Apple TV's IP address.
i.e.
TCP host_ip:3689 apple_tv_ip:49187 ESTABLISHED
TCP host_ip:3689 apple_tv_ip:49196 ESTABLISHED
TCP host_ip:3689 apple_tv_ip:49255 ESTABLISHED
When it is playing content there are more connections established, some of these rows will gradually disappear when the media file stops playing. These addional TCP records show iTunes using different ports from 3689, but only while media files are being played.
When a video file is played, (on this Windows PC at least) the iTunes host is using ports 4463 and 4464, with the Apple TV using port 7000. When playing a music track or podcast, the iTunes host is using port 4472 or 4489 and the Apple TV is using port 5000.
When the media is playing, the fourth column returned by the 'netstat -an 5' command : 'State' shows as 'ESTABLISHED' and shortly after the media file is stopped playing it shows as 'TIME_WAIT' until the record disappears after a minute or so.

Possible update solution for some Jelly Bean issues on Razr Maxx

I bought a Razr Maxx used two weeks ago and wanted to a post a possible solution to the broken Jelly Bean update. My Razr Maxx (practically new) was slow, lagged, and gave me about 10 hours of battery life. Also, my Wi-Fi was horrible just 10 feet from the wireless router and it ran hot.
Before I chucked it for a used S3 I decided to do what others had done. Keep in mind, the phone had been previously factory reset after the JB update had been OTA'ed to the unit a few months ago. It was put in a drawer as the person bought a new phone.
So to be clear: It had gone through a factory reset but without clearing internal memory and had serious issues. I had cleared the Dalvik cache but it didn't help. Here's what fixed my phone:
I did a battery recalibration. This can be done by running the phone down to zero. Shutting it off and charging it overnight. This may have to be performed twice.
Backed up my files, removed the mSD card and from the OS, erased the internal storage. I also went into the Settings / Privacy and set Automatic Restore to off.
I cleared the Dalvik Cache again.
http://www.droidforums.net/forum/droid-razr-maxx/232462-how-wipe-cache-without-doing-factory-reset.html
I booted into safe mode.
http://support.verizonwireless.com/clc/devices/knowledge_base.html?id=50079
From the OS within safe mode, I performed a factory reset and had it clear the internal storage again.
Started the setup process.
Cleared Dalvik Cache again.
The result is a smooth "buttery" feel (well, as smooth as this platform can offer) no massive lagging like before where the phone would just lock up for five seconds, no over heating, WiFi is seemingly normal and battery life is Maxx instead of Min. To give you an idea, the phone had been on light use and on for maybe 13 on battery when I did the reset. I did the hard reset from a 65% battery and reinstalled all the apps over WiFi and reconfigured. At 2:30 a.m. it was at 1 percent so I set the screen to 100% brightness and played a video until it died about 3 a.m. Basically the screen was on and the phone being used from around 9 p.m. until 3 a.m. after coming off the charger at 8 a.m. the previous morning.
Will this work for you? I don't know but I know the Jelly Bean in place upgrade on this phone is pretty flaky from the complaints.
If your phone has been turned into a pile of junk by the update, you have nothing left to lose unless you're just using it as a bargaining chit to get a new phone from VZW.
Good luck to anyone who tries it.
If you are trying to diagnose battery issues, I recommend GSAM.

>> Duplicate post removed for cross-posting violations per the Verizon Wireless Terms of Service
See After latest system update, text messages don't always "send." for original message <<
Message was edited by: Verizon Moderator

One SOLUTION for "self assigned IP address"

Hello there, dealing with the nasty issue of "self assigned IP address" has been my latest two days nightmare, I tried lots and lots of solutions I read in forums here and there without getting to a point.
I started this post because I want to post here a solution that really worked for me and I haven't seen it posted over the web.
I don't remember where but I saw the comment that WEP encryption by the router is not very mac compatible as opposed to WPA. So a while ago when I entered my router home screen (Thomson TG585 v7) I saw the option to enable WPA-PSK encryption and went for it, I can tell you it inmediatelly got me online and till now my airport wireless conection is working perfectly.
I'm not any mac/web guru and maybe I'm stepping some technical details but I want to share this tip with all of you because I know it can be a really nasty problem that one of the gat dam "self assigned IP address" and this may help somebody else. ;-)
Best regards
Luis Erantzcani

Great tip Luis, thanks!

One solution for the white screen of the dead on

I bought a creative ZEN with the white screen. Then return this to the shop and then another ZEN with with screen of the dead but I found this solution:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8g0sh7pc54
It is important that the screen turn off, so it is necessarily for example that play some song.
I try all things that they says in this forum but only this is OK.
Hablo espa?ol por si alguno necesita ayuda en este idioma.

because it works for the majority and not the minority doesnt mean its good it means there are some issues which need sorted for individuals.
and my iphone is not jailbroken it has all original apple software on just had to circumvent the system to get it back to a stable working condition before the fantastic update to ios6 and i have also updated 4 devices 2 have had problems and 2 have not so figure that out. Apple should at least have admit there are issues with certain hardware and support there customers as a unhappy customer will allways remember the bad bits and not the good bits and you keep refering to the millions it works for what about the ones that it doesnt or are they not important or is your money better then mine i dont think so some how all i ask for is decent customer service that will resolve my issue but im guessing thats far to hard for you to comprehend and my phone is 2 month out of warranty which is why most of us are here i would think or we would all be at the apple store.

A solution for macbook pro sleep issue

I had a very annoying problem with my ~1 year old MBP. When I closed the lid, about 50% of the time the computer would not wake up after reopening the lid. The screen would just stay black and there would be no responsiveness from the keyboard or trackpad. I looked up the problem on google and found that many, many people had the same issue and could not find a single solution that worked for me. I called apple support and there suggestion was to reinstall the OS, which I did not want to do. They also suggested booting off the installation disk, but I didn't want to spend time trying to track down an intermittent problem. The solution that worked for me was as follows:
in the preferences tab under security there is an option 'use secure virtual memory'; if you are using a password, this option is grayed out. you can leave this option checked, but it's important to know whether you are using secure VM or not.
the next step is to go the terminal and type
pmset -g | grep hibernatemode
you will see a number pop up, from 0 to 7. the meaning off the numbers is as follows:
0 - Old style sleep mode, with RAM powered on while sleeping, safe sleep disabled, and super-fast wake.
1 - Hibernation mode, with RAM contents written to disk, system totally shut down while “sleeping,” and slower wake up, due to reading the contents of RAM off the hard drive.
3 - The default mode on machines introduced since about fall 2005. RAM is powered on while sleeping, but RAM contents are also written to disk before sleeping. In the event of total power loss, the system enters hibernation mode automatically.
5 - This is the same as mode 1, but it’s for those using secure virtual memory (in System Preferences -> Security).
7 - This is the same as mode 3, but it’s for those using secure virtual memory.
I had 3 selected and this was causing me all the problems because I should have had it at 7, which is the option compatible with secure VM. to change it, simply type
sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 7
That's it! I tried setting it to 0, but this did not solve my problem. Hopefully, this solution will hold up, but I haven't had any problems thus far.

If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Step 1
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left.
Enter "BOOT_TIME" (without the quotes) in the search box. Note the timestamps of those log messages, which refer to the times when the system was booted. Now clear the search box and scroll back in the log to the last boot time when you had the problem. Post the messages logged before the boot, while the system was unresponsive or was failing to shut down. Please include the BOOT_TIME message at the end of the log extract.
Post the log text, please, not a screenshot. If there are runs of repeated messages, post only one example of each. Don’t post many repetitions of the same message. When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into a message.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Edit it out by search-and-replace in a text editor before posting.
Step 2
Still in Console, look under System Diagnostic Reports for crash or panic logs, and post the most recent one, if any. In the interest of privacy, I suggest you edit out the “Anonymous UUID,” a long string of letters, numbers, and dashes in the header of the report, if present (it may not be.) Please don’t post shutdownStall, spin, or hang logs — they're very long and not helpful.

Buy one application for two different Touches, slightly different details

Hi, I have a couple questions about applications and the touch, my brother and I are getting touches for our birthday and we don't know if we can buy one app and use it on both our players or not. Someone said if both are linked to the same account it's ok but our parents are going through a divorce so we'll likely be living apart...exactly how does it work? W euse the same account but we'll be on different computers so can we do that? Or will be have to have different accounts because we'll be living apart? We use one account and buy as many apps to use on both as we can before we move? If anyone knows and can list the steps we'd appreciate the help

If you bought an app once and synced it to two different IPT's you'd almost certainly be in breach of Apple's licensing terms. In any case I imagine their apps DRM would prevent you from doing so. You're probably going to have to get separate iTunes store accounts. The divorce shouldn't affect this, there's no reason both accounts can't be registered with the same credit card #.

Customer service has one solution for my problem

My Cisco 4335 STB has been experiencing all of the usual issues reported here and on other forums.
1) Caller ID has never worked (I've run the troubleshooter and rebooted many times. I see the test message caller ID, no joy displaying during a test call)
2) Random reboot of STB (this has decreased slightly but is still occurring weekly), and everyone's favorite problem
3) STB is intermittently slow to respond to commands from remote. This has increased in frequency and is driving us insane. The only solution we can find is to use the Verizon remote control app on my phone or tablet.
The only solution Verizon can offer is a new STB. This is not an option for us as we currently have hundreds of hours of new shows and movies saved to the dvr and external HD.
I've seen other users report the problems are improving, I'm hoping to see improvement soon myself. I've only been with Verizon for 6 months and I'm happy with the level of service so far.

What you need to do is have someone at verizon reboot your services as there may be a glitch that exists where verizon will first have to run their tests on their end on your home to make sure that everything is ok where if all is well then they can reboot the services where what will happen is that initially there will be a slow response between the remote and the box but give it some time then all will be fine. I too had that issue and verizon rebooted it at night where in the morning all was well. It is an odd issue where it can be repaired without you getting rid of your box and losing all of your shows that were taped. Now as far as getting someone from verizon on the phone to help you out with this problem that is a whole orher conversation. Good luck with trying to get someone on the phone without waiting at least 2 hours to talk to them.

Solution For Anyone Having Voicemail Issues

Not long after activating my iPhone 5 with Verizon, my visual voicemail stopped working. In addition, I was not even receiveing notifications when I had voicemail. The only way for me to check and/or listen to voicemail was to do it the old fashioned way by dialing *86.
Verizon technical support had me check and recheck every setting on the phone but noting fixed the issue. I was told that one of the possible causes could be a specific app. "Onavo Extend". It's an app that is supposed to "stretch" your data plan and also lets you track how much data each specifc app uses.
After deleting the app, I was still unable to access visual voicemail. After a little more playing around, I found that deleting the app does not remove the profile that it installed on the phone. You need to manually remove the profile (Under Settings / General / Profiles). After removing the profile I reset the phone (Hold the power and home button at the same time until the phone shuts off) and everything worked fine.....my visual voicemail was back.
You may need to remove the profile more than once. For some reason after removing the profile the first time and restarting the phone, he profile reappeared.
Hope this helps!

First time I read about this - I've been having the VVM issues since upgrading to iPhone 5. I like Onavo to help limit my data, so for now I'm downloaded the YouMail app )which may even be working better than native vvm?).

One solution for missing Linux search bar options in Debian-based distros.

All search options and the ability to add/remove/edit and get more disappeared.
I uninstalled Firefox for politcal reasons in April, then reinstalled it (after a bit of research convinced me my protest was better aimed elsewhere.) The search bar failed to work.
These all failed:
> sudo apt-get remove firefox
> sudo apt-get install firefox
> sudo dpkg-reconfigure firefox
> rm -Rvf ~/mozilla/firefox*
menu-->help-->troubleshooting [reset Firefox] nor [open profile directory]
SOLUTION:
When searching for version numbers in dpkg, I noticed two packages for firefox
> dpkg -l | grep firefox
ii firefox 29.0.1 amd64 The Firefox web browser
rc firefox-solydxk-adjustments 29.0.1 all Firefox adjustments for SolydXK
> man dpkg
confirmed my suspicion that the solydxk tweaks to firefox may have been broken by removing and installing firefox. (rc indicated neither properly installed, nor uninstalled.)
> sudo apt-get remove firefox-solydxk-adjustments
> sudo apt-get install firefox-solydxk-adjustments
Everythings working now. dpkg shows both packages installed correctly.
> dpkg -l | grep firefox
ii firefox 29.0.1 amd64 The Firefox web browser
ii firefox-solydxk-adjustments 29.0.1 all Firefox adjustments for SolydXK
I don't know how many Debian forks (Mint, Solyd, Ubuntu, Librenet, etc) might be similarly affected, but I thought I'd get this out there since I know at least one Mint user has seen it this past March.

Note that Firefox 30.0 has be out since Tuesday June 10 from [http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/all/ Mozilla.org] so there may be a Firefox 30.0 now from your Linux distro if you choose to use those builds instead.

One solution for Safari 3.2 crashing if you don't have any 3rd party apps

So Safari 3.2 was crashing like crazy for me and i tried everything suggested on these forums without success. I never had any 3rd party "hacks" installed like PithHelmet that are known to cause the issue. I remembered i had a proxy server setup to access journals from my school library at home a while back. Tried disabling that and now safari 3.2 has been running without crashing for 2 days.
Just putting it out there for those of you still having crashing issues. I'm sure it's not the cure-all, but maybe some of you still have a proxy enabled. I hope apple fixes this particular issue eventually, because i need to use the proxy.
Message was edited by: zig_k

I guess that is the other side of the analysis. I am similarly not really aware of the way that the proxy works -- I guess it confirms data and settings -- and with the PAC file, these are changed from time to time. I guess, if it is working in FF and not Safari, you might try a few things like turning off then on the proxy settings; creating another Location; resetting Safari (keep that one for later); trashing the relevant preference files; asking your sysadmin; and sending feedback to Apple, with the PAC file location.

Best charging solution for multiple iPod Touches?

We have 1 iMac desktop computer and 4 G2 iPod touches. I want to know the best way to charge them. The kids want chargers for their rooms, so a recommendation for wall chargers would be good. I thought a hub with 4 usb ports might work, but would it have enough power to do the job?
Any solutions appreciated. Thank You!

Check this out:
!http://www.griffintechnology.com/images/assets/headers/0000/2315/powerdock_2.jp g!
[http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/powerdock]

One solution for un-discoverable bluetooth keyboard.

1. Remove batteries from Bluetooth Keyboard
2. Press the power button on the Keyboard for 5 seconds.
3. Replace batteries
4. RE-pair mac to Keyboard (if it is now discoverable).
Pls note: prior to discovering this solution i tried several of the things advised in this forum, all to no avail-i UN-paired the keyboard from all other macs, i trashed the library/preferences/bluetooth file, i repaired disk permissions and i re-set the SMC (re-setting PRAM requires use of the keyboard, so i couldn't do that).
I did not see Georgy Krompacky's ingenious solution until after i got mine working but my guess is that it amounts to the same thing - a KEYBOARD smc/re-set. As per his post in this forum, he walked his keyboard 50-plus feet away from his mac until the green power light began to blink!

This issue is discussed a few other times in the forum under different categories. It is a known issue for CRV's (see Honda website) and only on incoming calls. Phone must be unlocked AND the headset setting must be selected - otherwise you have to "transfer" the call 2x.

One Solution for Hot to touch Issues...

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