Open GL Guides weirdness

On my rig (PS CS4, 3.0gHz 8 core Intel, 10.5.5, X-1900, 9gB RAM, 30&24"ACD's)I have observed that:
Zooming above 1200% in Open GL disables the ability to drag a viewable guide. Below a 1200% Zoom factor, the guide normally remains on screen as you drag it, but above 1200%, it remains in its last position until you release the mouse. Then it will appear in the new position.
Something else Open GL related: Selections only snap solidly to guides when the image is unrotated. If you rotate the image to any value other than 0°, snapping becomes spotty or impossible, depending on Zoom factor.

Whether or not the guide is exactly positioned on a pixel border is not the issue I'm talking about. I am well aware of guide behavior in Photoshop.
Snap to guides has always exhibited a sort of "bump" during the drag process at the snap point. This "bump" also happens when you drag the center of the selection over the guide..or visa versa. The "bump" is what makes Photoshops traditional "feel" for snapping, unique amongst graphic applications.
This no longer works as consistently as it did before Open GL. With open GL disabled this behavior continues to work as it always has.
There is a noticeable difference as to how selections and guides work in Open GL. This is not an isolated subject.

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Hi. I have a Dell PC running Windows 7 64 bit. I have the latest version of Adobe Reader, It worked yesterday. Today I have job training to do that is due tomorrow morning and I can't open PDF files. I have to open a guide and read it and take a test

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Hi Don,
I have seen this issue fixed for some users by modifying the following registry key:
The key is "HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management" MoveImages
Set the key to 1 instead of 0 then reboot the machine.
In case you still face the issue try the following registry key change:
The only thing you have to do is rename the following key at the REGEDIT, and everything will be fine !!
BEFORE:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Image File Execution Options\iexplore.exe
AFTER:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Image File Execution Options\iexplore.old
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Toby wrote:
Fantastic job @rosadosc I'm on the fence about merging guides guys. They refer to similar topics but have been created a large space of time apart. I'll talk to the team. EDIT: Once the Knowledge Base comes into effect, multiple members can contribute to the same guide/article. Until that happens, we want to make sure any and all member effort is easy to recognise on each guide . I'll talk to the team to see what they thinkSeems fair enough to me.

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Some sites like Facebook have a setting to force a secure connection.<br />
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Hey,
Here are the steps that should help:
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I _think_ that Camera Raw uses Bridge's preferences (at least it did in Ver 3). What version of Camera Raw are you using? Check the Advanced section of Bridge's prefs to see the language choices.

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Thanks Hunt. I think I have resoled the major problem.. I simply rebuilt a
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hi guys
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http://i41.tinypic.com/2v9dm3t.png
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points of note:
# i haven't installed any apps that may interfere with the display.
# i believe my display adapter is fine. i use the computer constantly.
# i have applied all updates.
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things i don't want to try:
# reset pram and related
# take my mac to a genius
thanks.

http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3539383&#3539383
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3681668&#3681668
I glean from the above articles that this may indicate problems repairable with Disk Utility.
Boot from the installer disk, select language if applicable, choose utilities, run Disk Utility and verify (and repair if necessary) the drive. Then boot from your main drive in Safe Mode and repair permissions (doing it while booted from the main drive uses an updated version of permissions).
[Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214]
[Using Disk Utility in Mac OS X 10.4.3 or later|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302672]
[Disk Utility's Repair Disk Permissions|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=25751]
From BDaqua (couldn't have said it better):
"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc that came with your computer (Edit: Do not use this disc if it is not the same general version as what you have currently on your computer, e.g. use a Tiger disc for a Tiger drive, not a Panther disc), then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
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3. Click the First Aid tab.
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5. Select your Mac OS X volume.
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uuuuuuuh huh?
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Any recent changes to ID or the system?
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My MacBook Pro (Late 2009) won't open specific website

Hello!
I have a problem with opening hotfile.com website. In any browser (I've checked in Safari, Chrome and Firefox) it won't open. The weird thing is that on my wifes' PC there is no problem to open that page. Moreover, I CAN open that page, but only using online proxies (tried on zend2.com), and Windows 7 via Parallels…
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I don't know, what's wrong. :/
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Best regards,
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It sounds like a DNS issue. DNS (Domain Name System) is how your system translates the name you type into your address bar into an actual address. When you enter the name hotfile.com... you system goes out and queries a DNS server which looks up the name to get the correct address and then sends you there.
I would suggest that you just change your DNS server. Use this page as a guide on how to change it, but don't use the DNS server info they provide (as it's specific for the school giving the instructions). Instead use the OpenDNS addresses which are:
208.67.222.222
208.67.220.220
If there are currently DNS servers listed, just delete them.
http://ucdb.grinnell.edu/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Help.MacDNSIssues
You may need to make the DNS change for your ethernet connection as well if you're experiencing the same problem.
Let us know how you make out.

InDesign Cs5.5 display weirdness

hi. recently i've encountered an odd issue while working in InDesign Cs5.5 (i'm on a Quad Core Intel Mac).
I've got multiple InDesign documents open, Smart Guides turned on, moving layout elements from one InDesign document to the other, let's call them Document A and Document B...
if i use the gap tool, and then return to using another tool, i still get the gap tool 'arrows' highlighting various page elements, and soon after that elements from Document A start 'appearing' in Document 'B', especially when i toggle back and forth between Normal and Preview mode. it becomes almost impossible to do anything constructive with Document A because anytime i select something, elements from Document B are 'superimposed' over elements in Document A.
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thanks

hi. recently i've encountered an odd issue while working in InDesign Cs5.5 (i'm on a Quad Core Intel Mac).
I've got multiple InDesign documents open, Smart Guides turned on, moving layout elements from one InDesign document to the other, let's call them Document A and Document B...
if i use the gap tool, and then return to using another tool, i still get the gap tool 'arrows' highlighting various page elements, and soon after that elements from Document A start 'appearing' in Document 'B', especially when i toggle back and forth between Normal and Preview mode. it becomes almost impossible to do anything constructive with Document A because anytime i select something, elements from Document B are 'superimposed' over elements in Document A.
i am running the latest InDesign update. I have multiple InDesign files open, and occasionally i am copying/pasting elements from one document to another.
I do often use keyboard shortcuts to toggle from one tool to the next, as well as clicking on specific tools in the toolbar.
We've tried switching to 'typical' from 'high quality' display to see if that made any difference, but the issue occurs either way.
Anyway, here is a movie of the issue:
http://db.tt/84Ul3LcI

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So, the quick review of my past few weeks:
1. Purchase MacBook Pro (late 2007 non-glossy) 2.53 Ghz 24.11.2008
2. Two minutes out of the box, was dealing with annoying noise coming from HD, like a squeaking, turning gurgling noise every 30 seconds or so.
3. Went back to the store and said "I didn't want a machine that talks to me"
4. Store says o.k. and replaces my Toshiba HD for a Samsung HD (assuming Tosh. was 7200 and Samsung is 5400)
5. When I get home, annoying noise is gone! Awesome! Now I cannot open iTunes or Front Row without MAJOR lags in my system. And I mean M.A.J.O.R.
6. Read up on problem and figure that I need to format the new Samsung HD so it knows what the fakk is going on inside the computer. So, I run an "Archive and Install"
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Problem again is that, like most Mac owners, I bought the machine to make music / video / photography. It's challenging to have a computer that one doesn't know if is reliable or not. One doesn't want to get 30 minutes into a project and BOOM. Bye bye. And no, one shouldn't always have to be cautious about crashes and constantly be saving their projects. Yes, saving is good, but ALWAYS saving is tedious, time consuming and one shouldn't have to do it all the time after shelling out a few thousand for a machine that "just works".
Any help with N° 7? I am stuck now.
In the car industry they call it a lemon. I think I got the lemon. Twice (I found out they replaced my first one before replacing the HD)
This ***** ... unfortunately, it's also my first Mac purchase.

OK, lets go back to square one and take a look at the things that usually result in slowdowns on macs.
First lets make sure that the drive is correctly formatted and that you aren't suffering from directory corruption of some kins.
Boot up the computer from your Leopard OS DVD, go past the language menu, and then select "Disk Utility" from the "Utilities" menu in the menubar. Highlight your HD (it will probably give the brand of disk and its capacity) in the pane on the left. Now look at the information in the bottom of the window. It will provide various information about the drive ending with something that should read:
S.M.A.R.T. Status : Verified
Partition Map Scheme : GUID Partition Table
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All OK? If so, then highlight the volume name in the left hand panel, immediately below and slightly offset to the right, from the HD. The usual default for this is "Macintosh HD", though you may have called it something else.
Down below you should now see information about the "Mount Point", etc.
The important information here is the "Format" , which should read "Mac OS Extended (Journaled)" . If it reads anything else then you may have a problem with the drive format.
All still OK? With your HD selected in the left hand pane, make sure the "First Aid" tab is selected in the top right pane of the Disk Utility window. You should see buttons available allowing you to "verify" or "repair" permissions and to "verify" or "repair" the "Disk". Click on the "repair disk" button. This will check and repair and corruption of your HD directories. It will probably take several minutes to run (longer still if it finds problems). If it says that it has undertaken repairs make a note of what they are. If it says that it can't repair the disk, again make a note and post back here. If it says that it couldn't find any problems then we can move on to the next step.
Once the "disk repair" is completed, click on "repair permissions". THis takes some time under Leopard (might even run for twenty minutes or so though it is usually a little quicker than this).
If none of the above indicated any problems then we at least know that your directories etc are in good shape before we move onto the next phase.
Restart your computer normally (ie booted from the internal drive).
Use it normally but start up "Activity Monitor" from the "Utilities" folder. Open the "Activity Monitor" window from its "Windows" menu. Choose "active processes" from the drop down menu near the top of the window. Then click on the "CPU" tab in the lower part of the window.
Watch for any "processes" which are using large amounts of "CPU" (in the "cpu" column. Anything using more than about 50% is unusual. If something is using more than this, take a note of what it is and post back here. Some background programs, and even printer drivers and the like, can be "processor hogs" that consume large amounts of processor time, while doing very little. This can cause serious slowdowns.
Cheers
Rod

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