Panasonic Tv isn't powering on

I have a 52" Panasonic rear projection cinema vision Tv, model: PT-53X42F. The power light flashes 5 times when you push the button and it makes a sound like it will work but never comes on. I am trying to find out what part it needs and if it is worth fixing. I have looked online and it might be the DG (?) board, but no repair shop will listen without me paying them to look at it. Please help if you can.

It is not something you can handle yourself.
The repair shops are perfectly correct for not taking your word for it. There may be other prblems that led up to the "DG Board" getting blown. Replacing the "DG Board" may result in another blown "DG Board: because the problem causing it to happen is not addressed.
bite the bullet and take it to a reputable repair shop. Ask for an itemized receipt that lists all parts replaced, and the exact time of each repair/replacement.
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My Mac isn't powering up

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I'm not an expert on this, but I think you probably have some RAM problems. Did you recently install new RAM manually?
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My iPhone 5 isn't powering on. What's wrong with this?

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These are Apple's tips on this:
Will not turn on, will not turn on unless connected to power, or unexpected power off
Verify that the Sleep/Wake button functions. If it does not function, inspect it for signs of damage. If the button is damaged or is not functioning when pressed, seek service.
Check if a Liquid Contact Indicator (LCI) is activated or there are signs of corrosion. Learn about LCIs and corrosion.
Connect the iPhone to the iPhone's USB power adapter and let it charge for at least ten minutes.
After at least 15 minutes, if:
The home screen appears: The iPhone should be working. Update to the latest version of iOS if necessary. Continue charging it until it is completely charged and you see the battery icon in the upper-right corner of the screen. Then unplug the phone from power. If it immediately turns off, seek service.
The low-battery image appears, even after the phone has charged for at least 20 minutes: See "iPhone displays the low-battery image and is unresponsive" symptom in this article.
Something other than the Home screen or Low Battery image appears, continue with this article for further troubleshooting steps.
If the iPhone did not turn on, reset it while connected to the iPhone USB power adapter.
If the display turns on, go to step 4.
If the display remains black, go to next step.
Connect the iPhone to a computer and open iTunes. If iTunes recognizes the iPhone and indicates that it is in recovery mode, attempt to restore the iPhone. If the iPhone doesn't appear in iTunes or if you have difficulties in restoring the iPhone, see this article for further assistance.
If restoring the iPhone resolved the issue, go to step 4. If restoring the iPhone did not solve the issue, seek service.

My macbook isn't powering up and makes a beeping noise in time with the sleep light

Hi There I hope someone can help!!!
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Here's the Apple support article on beeps https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1547

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Sounds like your iMac has serious hardware problems. You best would be to take it to Apple and ask them to repair it.
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Any Help For Yet Another HDCP For Playback/Netflix Problem?

I have a very complex set-up and had no problem streaming until the other night and I have tried every single solution I can find online under the sun so that is why I am posting here.
I have a Pioneer Receiver that I used a Terk Smart HDMI 3 x 1 Selector with and was able to stream Netflix with no problem.
This is how everything used to be set up:
Pioneer Receiver
Blu-ray IN
HDMI OUT Terk
DVD IN
Panasonic DVD Recorder OUT
OUT
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Terk HDMI 3 x 1 Selector
OUT
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Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 1
AppleTV (3rd Gen.)
Input 2
Mac Mini (2010)
Input 3
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When I first hooked up the Monoprice, I hooked the OUT from it into the Bluray IN on the Pioneer and then hooked all of the HDMI cables from all of the various electronics into the INputs on it. Tested all of them to see that it autoselected whatever I had chosen and even was able to stream on NF.
This is how I have everything hooked up now:
Monoprice 8 x 1
OUT
Pioneer Receiver Bluray IN
ATV
Input 1
Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 2
PS3
Input 3
Mac Mini
Input 4
Panasonic DVD Recorder*
Input 5
*Bluray IN and OUT are the only HDMI slots in use on the Pioneer Receiver using this hookup.
Now all of a sudden yesterday I went to stream NF via the ATV and I got that "This content requires HDCP for playback" error.
I did everything I could think of and also tried all of the suggestions I could find on the web. I had already switched out the HDMI cables as I had bought new ones when I got the Monoprice. So I hooked the Terk back up thinking it would "fix" things. No dice. I put the old HDMI cables back on. No dice. I have it hooked up now with the old HDMI cables and still no dice. I unplugged everything and let it sit thinking I could force a new HDMI handshake. NF started streaming for 5 seconds and froze -- and then the error message.
I also have a Scientific Atlanta DVR that the ATV is plugged into that the HDMI 2 of the Panasonic TV is connected via HDMI. The Panasonic TV isn't "old" as I think I got it in late 2009 or late 2010, as it has more than enough HDMI inputs, component, and also a PC connection -- in case someone wanted to suggest the TV wasn't capable of handling the hookups. The ATV is running the latest version of the software.
This is really frustrating since it worked with no problem from the day I got the ATV and now after upgrading the switcher to get more HDMI inputs, everything went kaput.
And I just don't know what to do.
I'm not sure if having everything being dependent upon the Panasonic TV being powered on is affecting things, but it never affected things when I was using the 3 x 1 HDMI switch. When I wanted to use the ATV, I'd press the Bluray input on the Pioneer receiver, hit the ATV remote and it would come on. Click into NF and voila: streaming with no problems.
Currently, I still do the same thing -- and I can listen to the radio, stream in iTunes Match on the ATV. It's just the NF issue that's really beyond me. The only thing I can think of to try is to maybe put the DVR in the surge protector slot so that it has to be powered on so that everything else will power up instead of the TV?
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In the meantime, I guess I will switch the DVR on the surge protector with the TV and see what happens if I change the way things power up in the chain.

I am at a loss. I thought I had a micro USB cord but since I didn't, I wasn't able to downgrade the software.
I did a complete restore for kicks.
This is the current setup
ATV HDMI
Panasonic TV HMDI 2
ATV optical output
Pioneer Receiver
Again, all of the other devices run through the 8 x 1 switch box which is NOT powered on to use the ATV.
I get the HDCP error whenever I try to access the following:
Netflix
Trailers
Vimeo
WSJ Live
HHL and the other sports channels
These work fine:
Radio
iTunes Match
Podcasts
Flickr
TV Shows and Movies because I tested both watching previews and they streamed perfectly
I've changed the settings on the ATV until I'm blue in the face and this is what they are currently:
Dolby - Auto
Audio Output - Auto
HDMI Output - Auto
TV Resolution - 1080p HD - 60Hz -- and yes I've had it set on both "Auto" and 720p HD - 60Hz and neither stopped the error once it started happening
All of the equipment is HDCP compliant as I checked
The cable between the TV and ATV
The 8 x 1 switch box
Panasonic TV specs -- it is HDCP compliant as I said in my 3rd post (according to the manual)
The Pioneer Receiver (for good measure)
I have no idea of what to do other than to hope that Apple does something with the next update to restore everything, as this HDCP issue is really beyond annoying and it's clear 5.2 broke something. In the meantime, I really am open to suggestions to try something else other than smashing the ATV with a hammer

Canon Vixia HF R52 camcorder/blu ray recorder/direct connection?

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have amd phenom x955 quad core and 8gb ram
under change settings....
no clue what to choose
In a message dated 9/2/2011 1:14:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
[email protected] writes:
First, ensure that you have the latest version of Quicktime from Apple.com
on your system.
Then ensure that, when you started your project, you chose the settings
for a Full AVCHD 1920x1080 video project. You'll know if you've selected the
right settings for your project because, when you add the video to your
timeline, there will NOT be a red line above the clips until you add effects
or transitions to them.
Is that the case in your situation?
Did you use Premiere Elements' Video Importer to get the video from the
camcorder to your computer? You should. It's located under Get Media/From
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If, with everything set up right, you're still having problems, it could
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K8N Neo4/SLI - New CPU: Athlon 64 X2 3800+ OR AMD Athlon 64 4000+

I want a new CPU ... Which of these will make a bigger difference over my current Athlon 64 3000+
Or would someone please suggest a better CPU (under ~$90). TIA!

Thanks for the help! I use the system for some gaming, media "server", burning DVDs, and usenet mostly. But the biggest reason why I want to upgrade is that I run TVersity http://www.tversity.com/home (software to stream any video through an XBox 360 to your home theatre). Because the XBox 360 will only play .wmv files without 3rd party software (TVersity). TVersity requires a powerhouse computer because it converts (on the fly) any video extension to .wmv and streams it out to the XBox 360. If the PC isn't powerful enough the video stutters and the audio skips.

USING NODE IN LOGIC 8

I have a Imac with 4gb of Ram and i am running out of patience on how poorly it is working after only a dozen or so tracks.
I took my moms Mac mini for the weekend and noded it to my Imac. It seemed to work good. I noded every midi track but not audio tracks.
I could see the Node meter indicating that the node was reallying doing its thing ( about 75% full) and judging from the CPU load it looked to have chilled out a bit and i didnt really appear to have any major issues.
One thing i did notice though was that it made the audio tracks sound way different, i mean like awful. I didnt notice any latency (using a cat6 cable in ethernet) but i did notice that node doesnt work well with audio.
Has anyone experienced this?
One other question.
Can i put plug ins on the node and then have them run in logic. Like say i put BFD2 on the node and also store the wave files on the node (also kinda like a external HD) will this work?
Or could i also hook up my FW800 HD to the mac mini and run BFD that way ? The reason i ask is becasue im my experience to run BFD2 effectivley u need at least 2gb of Ram just for BFD.
Has anyone done anything like this? I need to find out before i go spend $1000 on a top of the line Mac Mini.
Thanks.

So basically what your saying is :
Yes, well done, that's exactly what I was saying. :rolleyes:
Its seems very very difficult to really get anything good using only whats in logic.
Then I'm sure your songs will sound three thousand per cent better in some other DAW.
I mean come on almost everyone uses a plug in of some sort and you have to agree with me the EQ's and Compressors and Reverbs (except maybe space designer are less than prefect).
Some of Logic's tools are great, others you can find better third-party options. Many of us here purchase additional tools and plugins. No one said you are limited to only using Logic. But if you only have Logic, and can't afford any other good tools, then yes, you can make perfectly acceptable music using only it's tools, assuming you have some skill and ability.
It still requires skill, but Logic on it's own offers a **** of a lot more than many hit records were made from.
If you have no skill, then it doesn't matter what tools you do or don't have, the end result will still be very amateur.
Nodes: You can run third-party FX plugins. You just cannot run third-party instruments. I expect it's a technical reason, not some arbitrary decision.
However, I expect very few pros are using nodes, which is really an inefficient option when you have a slow machine. Having a more powerful machine is a much better way to work, and good Macs are so powerful now that you really have to be pushing the limits of large arrangements or massive sample use to get to a point where one machine is not really useful.
It sounds to me like your requirements exceed your available computing power, if a 2.x C2D iMac isn't powerful enough for you. I run a MacBook Pro of about the same power requirements, and you can make plenty good music on it. No, you can't run hundreds of virtual instruments live, but that doesn't mean you can't do big arrangements.
If you really need a more powerful machine, then get a more powerful machine, rathwr than blaming Logic for your own machine's performance. Logic is about the most efficient DAW out there on any platform.

What's the best way to setup a media server/central storage for all of my?

I was wondering what the best way to achieve a central media server for all my iTunes content + iPhoto's, calendar syncing and contact sharing is? This is what I currently have:
iMac 20" Aluminum + External HD Backup (kids)
Macbook Black (wife)
Macbook Pro 15" (me)
Airport Extreme 802.11n (obvious)
TimeCapsule 1TB (wifi backup for wife/me)
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I want to centralize all our Photos from vacations, etc. Music, videos, movies, that are currently split up over wife's macbook, kids imac and my macbook pro onto my soon to be purchased Mac Pro.
I want to be able to stream everything from my living room via Apple TV for when guests come over, dinner parties, etc. (plus I love apple and it keeps things clean)
I'm currently using MobileMe to sync all of our Calendars and Contacts with my main account, which is great, but MobileMe doesn't sync to family members accounts =
What would I need to do to centralize all this onto my future Mac Pro so that everyone has access all the time when they are home and the key here is, modify/update/change from their machines and sync it back/update it on the Mac Pro.
Also, I'm hoping Snow Leopard has some changes to iTunes to make this a little more possible, since we're right around the corner from this release. I don't really want to spend an additional $900+ on Snow Leopard Server to have to achieve these results, but if it makes it easier, and does the job, then I guess I might. This is all speculation though, since it's not out yet. I'd like to get this all sorted and setup within the next month.
I was considering a Drobo, they say they can throw up iTunes Server but, I appreciate everyone for reading this, and taking the time to respond!
Thanks!
Message was edited

I'm in the process of setting up a smaller (and cheaper) but somewhat similar setup to what you want to do, so maybe one example might help point you in the right direction. My needs consist of a centralized location for data storage, which will include iPhoto libraries (I keep two separate ones), iTunes (which I also want served to the home theater system), something other than my laptop to play internet videos and downloaded content on my TV, all with ideally the lowest cost and energy use possible.
My solution was the new Mini with a FW800 external drive as the server/media hub and Airport gigabit as the network hub (it also handles the backup drive).
FW800 is fast enough to saturate a gigabit ethernet link, so I don't consider that much of a bottleneck. The Mini then has iTunes running at all times with its centralized library on it; it is hooked to the home theater via HDMI-DVI video and optical audio, so it can play music and also handle videos when desired; Front Row with the Apple remote is close enough to an AppleTV that I think it handles that well, and it's more full-featured than an AppleTV. It can further be used to display photos/slideshows/whatever on the TV for guests or such, or to surf from the couch with a wireless mouse/keyboard. You can also toss in an EyeTV for $150 and use that as a DVR if you feel like it.
When I want to edit photos or such on my desktop, the gigabit link is fast enough that I can run iPhoto without noticing any significant slowdown. Its also usable over wireless, though I have a dangling extra network cable to plug into a laptop for full gigabit speed if need be. iTunes, of course, shares its library, which can be played from any of the computers in the house if so desired (iPhoto can do that too if you just want to display).
If I REALLY wanted top speed (though I've even done video editing in iMovie via ethernet without issue), I could use a third party synch app (I like Sync) to mirror any of the content from the mini server to a local drive; this works fine with anything but multi-way synching, such as address books being modified in different locations. I'd probably try to set up one of those Mobile Me clone systems or use a 3rd party app if I needed to do that.
Again, maybe this isn't powerful enough or "synched" enough in terms of local storage for your taste, but the advantage is that a Mini uses a minute fraction of the power of a Mac Pro, so you're saving a lot on electricity if the computer will be powered up at all times as a server, and it's also a lot more full-featured as a home theater media hub than an AppleTV. And, heck, the thing is about as well equipped as my old top-of-the-line G5 tower for a 5th the cost and 1/15th the power and noise.

15" PB crashes when attempting to use a tv for a display

I have a 15" PB, 1.25 GHz G4 with 768 MB SDRAM.
I just bought a new DVI connector at the Apple store with S video and standard video (yellow RCA jack) outputs, and a new s video cable.
When I connect this to either the svideo or rca (not at the same time) inputs on the tv, I get a distorted b&w picture, usually a negative, that repeats across the screen. None of the screen resolution controls make much difference. If I flip between the mirror and side by side display, any attempt to access the system prefs display menu crashes system prefs. Sometimes toggling to mirror display leaves my screen black with a frozen mouse arrow in the center. Other times, it's still black but the arrow will move.
It almost looks like the video adapter isn't powerful enough to drive the tv. What do you think is going on?
Tom

Oh crap. You're right.
I feel amazingly dumb.
And I'm a little peeved that the folks at the Apple store didn't pick this up.
Problem solved.

Can anyone help?? Another new MacPro thread....

Hi all.
Another person here having big issues with PP CC 2014 on the new MacPro..
A little background;
I've been having issues with PP for years. Previously I was a photographer, and Lightroom was my software of choice. That was a great Adobe experience, pretty faultless software really...
Then when I moved to video it was a different story... obviously it's a whole different ballgame dealing with video files, I've not had much luck with my editing workflow!
I was working off an underpowered PC first, then was on a few Macbook Pros. Eventually, I got the go ahead to get a new MacPro from my employer, I thought that would solve all my problems! How wrong I was!
Even after the apparent "fix" for the GPU issues, I'm still having problems...
I'm no Adobe basher....No one wants PP to work well more than me (Al Mooney got highly offended on Twitter after I suggested PP might be slightly less than perfect!)
I'm hoping I might get some tips to improve performance or even a fix for the issues I'm having.
Here's the gist of my specs, can give more if needed;
Yosemite 10.10.2 (14C109)
Mac Pro (Late 2013)
3.5 GHz 6-Core Intel Xeon E5
64 GB 1866 MHz DDR3 ECC
AMD FirePro D700 6144 MB
My main drive is a G RAID 8GB TB2
So,
My main issue is that when a sequence gets more complex, the performance dips massively, to the point where it's unusable and crashes constantly.
The timeline freezes, the playhead is laggy, the system gets really slow to respond in general..... Maybe 15 seconds for the keyboard to respond to keypresses. (or else I need to tap spacebar twice instead of once to get it to respond). If I try to make any change on the timeline that anything more than a simple delete etc, the system can freeze and I need to force quit.
Another symptom is that when quitting the program, often it doesn't quit properly and I need to force quit.
The sequences I'm working on don't seem that demanding (especially give the machine I have) so it's really confusing as to what the issue is.
We're talking videos usually in the 2 -5 minutes range. Maybe 4 video layers. Footage wise; generally 1080p XAVC from a Sony F5, some Canon 4K from a 1DC. Can PP really handle native footage, should I be transcoding??? One of the big benefits of PP is the apparent ability to handle native formats, so it's really disappointing if that's the issue....
I do use a reasonable amount of plugins, like Izotope for denoising dialogue, the dreaded Red Giant plugins, and occasionally Red Giant Denoiser (is this the root of my problems??!). My current project has two layers keyed interviews (2 angles) and I'm using Ultrakey for that. (I bought Red Giant Primatte Keyer, but my system isn't powerful enough to run it without major issues....ridiculous!!)
If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. I've read other threads but my issue seems different. I can't rule out that I'm making some obvious mistake in my workflow either... so any general workflow best practise tips in that regard would be good too.
Sorry for the long thread and thanks for reading.

Hi healyb2,
Sorry you're experiencing this issue.
I think I've identified one of the issues, Izotope 4 Dialogue Denoiser.....
I've disabled it on an existing sequence and the crashes have stopped (for now).
Let us know if these issues crop up again. You can let us know directly here: http://adobe.ly/ReportBug
So, possibly (like Red Giant) Izotope plugins may not work usably in Premiere Pro....... which really grinds my gears......
Actually, we work hand in hand with plug-ins developers in the realm of compatibility. Some of these plug-ins companies are quite small so you have to pay close attention to precisely what is supported for the host application. In some cases, it takes some time to catch up to the latest versions.
why are Adobe not calling out the plugins as not usable? What about the plugin manufacturers themselves? I can't see this being a performance issue on my end...frustrating!
That's actually up to the plug-ins manufacturers. Please communicate with them accordingly regarding compatibility. Sorry for any confusion this may have brought about.
Thanks,
Kevin

Using a Dell 2407WFP with two Macs at the same time?

Hi ... I have a Dell Ultrasharp 24" WFP display that I was using with my old G4. Connectivity isn't the issue ... it works beautifully on both the G4 and my new Mini. I've read that I can put the VGA cable on the G4 (no biggie -- it's what I was using before) and I have the DVI on the Mini.
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I've activated file sharing, etc. on the old box, but there are some things I still can't do unless I'm on the G4 desktop -- mostly my graphic apps. I've been holding off from swapping cables around, but now it's getting to the point that I need to get back on the G4 because of apps that I don't have on the Mini.
I haven't put the VGA cable back on the G4 yet. It seems like it -should- work -- I just need some verification that it will or won't futz up something. I think what I might be most concerned about is that the monitor isn't powerful enough to run both machines at the same time, but I could be wrong.
The info at the Dell site is somewhat dated.
TIA!

I use a KVM switch with a Dell monitor that has DVI and VGA inputs. I only route the K an M portions (keyboard and mouse) through the switch. The computers connect directly via VGA and DVI to the Monitor, and then I use the monitor's switch to make the video switch. Works fine. Don't worry about taxing the monitor.
I'd suggest buying the KVM switch from a vendor with easy return policies, since it can take a few tries to find a model you like.

Help! 2010 imac 27" - Display doesn't work after long sleep

I just recently started having this problem. I've had this iMac since 2010 with zero issues, but it seems like ever since I downloaded Yosemite, the screen won't work after the computer has been sleeping for a while. I have to hold the power button and do a hard restart to get it to work again. If the computer has only been sleeping for a while, it wakes just fine. It's only after it's been sleeping all night and I go to use it agsin. I've checked power connections and all is good. Any ideas??

Hi Punisher8522,
Welcome to the Support Communities! The resource below offers some troubleshooting steps to try when your computer won't wake from sleep.
OS X: When your Mac doesn't sleep or wake - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/TS5357
Your computer cannot wake from sleep
Make sure your computer isn't powered off by pressing the power key for one second.
If you're using an external display, make sure your display is not powered off or unplugged.
If you are using a Mac desktop:
Make sure the AC power cord is connected securely to the computer and outlet.
Make sure the AC power outlet it is connected to is working properly.
If your computer is plugged into a power strip, make sure the power strip is not turned off. Check to make sure other items connected to the power strip are receiving power.
Your computer is slow to wake from sleep
If you see a progress bar when you wake your computer from sleep, this is normal. The computer is waking from safe sleep.
OS X Recovery and sleep
The system software your computer uses when started from OS X Recovery allows display sleep. Your computer does not go to sleep on idle while started from Recovery unless you are using a Mac notebook that is not connected to AC power.
Additional troubleshooting
If the steps above do not resolve your sleep-related issue, try these additional recommendations.
Reset SMC
The System Management Controller (SMC) is involved in managing power on your computer. Reset the SMC on your Mac if you are having difficulty sleeping or waking your computer.
Reset NVRAM/PRAM
Nonvolatile RAM (NVRAM)/Parameter RAM (PRAM) stores some power-related settings.Try resetting NVRAM/PRAM if you are having difficulty sleeping or waking your computer.
Test with external devices disconnected
Some external devices can prevent your computer from sleeping. Try disconnecting items other than your Apple keyboard or mouse from the built-in USB, Thunderbolt and Firewire ports on your Mac. If this resolves the issue, try reconnecting your external devices one at a time until you find the device preventing sleep or wake. Check the documentation that came with the device, or contact the device manufacturer for more information.
Try Safe Mode
Check to see if the issue still occurs when the computer is started in Safe Mode. If this resolves the issue, it could be related to a third party software item such as:
a login item
a startup item
a third party kernel extension
Try another user account
Try creating another user account, or log in as guest. See if your computer sleeps and wakes properly from the additional user account. If it does, your issue may be related to one of the following:
a login item
an app open in the original user account
You can disable login items from the Accounts pane of System Preferences. Try opening only one app at a time in the original user account to determine which app is preventing sleep. If you isolate the issue to a particular app or login item, check its documentation, or contact the developer of that software for more information.
Last Modified: Sep 19, 2014
I hope this information helps ....
- Judy

Panasonic Tv isn't powering on

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