Pattern background overlap

I'm having problems creating pattern swatches in cs6, because I can't seem to solve the problem of the background overlapping and hiding foreground shapes. I can make patterns without a background and I think I've worked out how to prevent the problem with a simple grid, but when I make a brick tile pattern, whichever overlap options I choose, at least one of the foreground shapes gets partly obscured by the overlapping background. I'm used to making seamless patterns in previous versions of Illustrator, by using guides and grids, then defining the pattern using a background rectangle but this option doesn't seem to be available in CS6, so if I can't solve the problem, it's back to CS5 :-(
Anyone else overcome this problem?

Hi. I seem to have solved this problem, but thought I'd post screenshots anyway in case anyone else is struggling with it. Above are two screenshots of a pattern with a brick by column tile type. I've exaggerated the colours to try and show the problem. The first one shows how the pink background rectangle, if it's placed in the centre of the tile, cuts off the left edge of the black motif (shown as a grey motif in the dimmed area). If you change the overlap options, the other side gets cut off. I found that if you move the background rectangle so that it covers just one quarter of the tile, as shown in the second screenshot, with the overlap on the same edges as any overlap of the motifs, the problem is solved. Any overlap of the motifs also need to be confined to either the top edge, or the bottom edge, and the left edge or the right edge. It can't overlap both (at least I don't think so). I also made the background rectangle the same size as the tile (which is defined in the pattern options panel). I know this sounds complicated, believe me, I've wracked my brains over it for ages, but once I was able to visualize what was going on, it all gradually became clearer. I think once I've got the hang of it, it will be easier than using guides and defining the pattern. It's certainly easy to use for creating simple patterns, but the more complicated patterns take a bit of thinking about. I can't say I've had a problem with blends or symbols. What happens if you try to save a pattern with a blend or symbol?

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Sue Carline
Operations Assistant
[email protected]
Telephone: 217.241.5400
Fax: 217.241.5401
3901 Wood Duck Dr., Ste. E / Springfield, IL 62711
Web<http://www.paulygroup.com/> / Twitter<https://twitter.com/PaulyGroupInc> / LinkedIn<http://www.linkedin.com/pub/pauly-group-inc/66/229/a73>

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Regards
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Good luck.

Pages to ePub observations and hints

I've been experimenting with exporting ePubs. Here are some things I have have found that may help others.
These observations are based on Pages v4.1 and iBooks v2.0.1
These truths might be invalidated when new versions of Pages and/or iBooks appear.
There may be subtle distinctions and/or situations where these observations don't work as described. Or maybe for some of them, I have gotten close to the truth but not fully realized it completely yet. Experiment with them at your will.
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4. If you insert a TOC into your Pages document, it is ignored for ePub export. The TOC created in an ePub will include whatever styles are checked in the Document->TOC inspector. The ePub TOCs as generated by Pages seem to have only two levels of indentation. The high level is the chapter level, as described above, whatever TOC-included-style appears first in the document will be the chapter delimiter and be the least indented level of the TOC. All other TOC-included-styles, no matter what they are named or how they are configured in Pages, will be placed at indent level two in the resulting ePub's TOC. So, a style does not need to be named "Heading" to be included in the ePub TOC, it just needs to be a TOC-included-style.
5. You can add however many images you want to a chapter, but if the combined file size of the images in that chapter add to more than 1Mb, then the resulting ePub will not display any of the images which cause the size of that chapter to surpass 1Mb.
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7. The margins of your Pages document, whether they be document-wide margins, or margins within a section, don't seem to affect the resulting ePub. The document-wide-margins and the layout-margins (in a section) can be set to zero. The on-the-ruler margins can be at the edges of the "paper." Extranious tabs on the rulers can affect things. I find it is best to drag all tab stops off the rulers.
8. Tables are problematic. They are not good constructs to put in ePubs. Pages will dimension tables/columns width based on percentages. So if the overall width of your table drawn in Pages happens to be 50% the width of the "paper", then in iBooks on the iPad, the table will be 50% of the width of iPad's page viewport. An 8.5x11 "sheet" of paper shown in Pages is typically defined as 612 pixels wide* (change your Pages ruler units preferences to Points to verify, the Document inspector will show the page size in pixels). So if you draw your table half the width of that sheet, you get a table 306px wide in Pages. That's pretty good, you can fit a bit of text in a table that wide. But now you export to ePub, and since the iPad's (landscape) viewport is only 368 pixels wide, your resulting table is 50% of that, or 184px wide. Since the size of the text hasn't changed much, now everything is wrapping and going crazy. Column widths are also generated as percentages of the table's width, so a column that fits its content nicely in Pages is now too narrow in the ePub. Confusion ensues. Incidentally, the above assumes your document left and right margins are set to zero, if not, the percentage of width is calculated between the margins, not the edges of the page. What you can do is make the table 100% of the width of the page, in that case the resulting table in the ePub will always be 100% of the width of the page viewport on the iPad. For a bit of left and right margin, you can throw in an empty column to the left and an empty column to the right of your table's content, then shut off the border lines for those side columns so they aren't seen. This won't solve your problems, but might take some of the pain away. If a user cranks the font size up as high as it will go on the iPad, no table remains standing.
* if you do any measuring with on-screen rulers, make sure you set Page's zoom to 100% first, as it defaults to 125%!
9. If you want to get a clue as to how your book will flow on the iPad (in landscape mode for example), you can temporarily set your document's Page Size to be 368x569 pixels (will all margins set to zero). You set Page Size and Margins in pixels (in inspector) by first changing the ruler units to Points in Page's settings. Be careful though, it's an approximate result, not exact WYSIWYG, the words won't end up exactly where you see them.
10. If you have read thus far, you probably already know that the first (on-screen) page of a Pages document can be used to automatically create the ePub's cover image upon export. As mentioned elsewhere on the 'net, floating images can be used on this first page (if they are used elsewhere they are ignored). I have found that shapes, specifically floating shapes can be used on the first page as well. You can even use background shapes! This unlocks the door to creating some truly nice covers with a minimum of work. I have here attached an image of a cover I created in just a couple of minutes without using Photoshop or any other image editor, just Pages. I will describe below how it is done
All the objects on the first page (shown above) is set to floating or background, therefore, you need to move the inline text to the next page. You can do this by inserting a section break. You can see it in the upper left corner. That forces all the text to be shuttled off to next page, out of the way.
First I created the swirly pattern background. To do so, create a box shape on the page and immediately set its Placement properties to "in background". Keep "background objects selectable" and resize it to cover the entire page. Remove any border or shadow from it. Then set its Fill to any seamless pattern you like. Keep the pattern pixel dimensions small so as not to create a large ePub. This particular swirly pattern I created very quickly for free at patterncooler dot com. Set the fill properties to "Tile" so that your pattern is tiled throughout the whole box shape. Now you can uncheck "background objects selectable" so that you can work on top of it without disturbing it.
The size of the pattern repeat itself is important to consider. The book cover will be seen in two places: on iBook's bookshelf (small), and opposite the table of contents in the book itself if the iPad is held in landscape mode. If the size of the repeat is too small, then you cant really make out the pattern in the bookshelf icon because the whole cover has been shrunk down, if the repeat is too large, it might look nice on the bookshelf but funny opposite the TOC. You'll have to experiment, but the repeat used in this example is a good compromise.
Next the brown spine down the left hand side is another box shape. This one's placement is set to "floating". Stretch it to the edges of the page. I filled this one with a subtle gradient to give it a slightly 3 dimensional look. Remember that iBooks will overlay shade an indentation along the left edge to appear as a crease. So dont make it too dark. Remove any border from this box, but give it a shadow on the right, just enought to make it appear affixed on the book. I used shadow settings of Offset 1pt, Blur 6pt, Opacity 75% at an angle of 323. Too much offset or blur ruins the effect. You want it to appear as a very thin layer adhesed to the "book". As for colors, use the eyedropper on the color inspector to pick colors from the background pattern, this will make it "work together" if you are color challenged.
The stitching on the right edge of the spine shape is a simple line shape 2 pts wide. Properties are: dotted, with a very slight shadow (2,4,85%,315). You can use the "bring forward" or "send backward" commands if the stack order gets mixed up.
Next add the Title and Author boxes. They are simple floating box shapes with color fill, and simple black border of 3px. Page's pop-up alignment guides will help you center them in the page. There is no shadow for these boxes as they (here) are supposed to mimic a printed and not a physical adhesion. Instead of a line border, you can also apply Page's "picture frame borders. I went crazy with those, but ultimately came back to the simple line border.
If you want to make these "adhesions" there are lots of nice paper textures on the 'net you can use as fill.
Finally you see there is a slight highlight on the top edge of the book and slight shadow along the right and bottom edge. These make the cover seem to have rounded edges, they give it a 3D appearance. To create the right hand "round over" draw a line-shape the height of the page. Make it 5px wide, and give it shadow properties of 5,4,50%,142. Next you have to move it so that it is slightly off the paper and thus not seen, but close enough that it's shadow is still seen. To move it, you can use a combination of the mouse, the arrow buttons on the keyboard, and/or the position inspector pane. In my example, the page is 600px wide, and the line sits at the 601px location. Be careful about moving shapes off the page, as you can "lose" them. Oddly enough, there is no way to see and/or find shapes that are "off page" (that I know of anyway). If you lose a shape off the page, you have to draw selection boxes blindly, until you stumble upon the shape again. It seems a way to hide content if one so desired.
For the bottom edge of the book, do the same thing with a horizontal line. Shadow angle in my example is the same 142 degrees.
For the top edge, do the same except make the shadow color white. (5,5,50%,270). This shape is hard to select once you have it offscreen. If you want to select it, you might have to move the background and right edge shadow out of the way first. Then draw a small box at the top right corner of the page until you hit it.
And one last detail, you might notice my page size is 600x860px (8.333in x 11.944in). This is because I think this aspect ratio is shaped more like a novel than than 8.5x11in (612x792px). The latter is squarer, and more the shape of a text book.
I hope this stuff has been useful to you.
Dave

Thank you for sharing such an informative post! I'd like to offer one small correction.
My company publishes children's picture storybooks in print. These are edge to edge full color pages for those who may not be familiar with this format. Our early ePub's were always disappointing in that we could not duplicate the print format without showing considerable white margins on an e-reader. We have since solved that problem in order to achieve the maximum image size. There will always be some amount of white margin in ePub format, but our image output now nearly fills the screen of any e-reader.
The 600X860 resolution is correct in order to achieve a wall to wall ePub image. The image must be created at that resolution for insertion into the document, and the page setup must also be set at the same dimension, which in inches is 8.333X11.944. You cannot, for example, use a smaller size image and drag it with constrained proportions to fill the viewport at the 600X860 resolution. The exported ePub file recognizes the portion of the image that is beyond the margins of the viewport and it will show up in an e-reader with a large white bottom margin.
Dragging a smaller image than the 600X860 resolution to fill the viewport with unconstrained proportions will work, but of course distorts the image. So, create your images at 600X860, insert them into your doc, export to ePub and you will be happy, happy, happy!

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PLEASE HELP! - Printing Yellow on Brown Kraft Paper

Please, please help!! I am sooooo frustrated right now! For starters, I'm a bit beyond intermediate Photoshop user (10yrs of habitual use). I NEED to print yellow on brown kraft paper. There's no alternative. I have to or I'm going to have one VERY upset client. Really hoping someone out there can help me very soon or it's going to cost me lots of $$$ when I have to fake it and print the entire brown kraft-pattern background on white paper just to get the yellow to show (picture one, small yellow key on a full sheet of brown kraft paper)
Here's the skinny..... I obviously have chosen to have photoshop control the color management. The closest I have come is to use the printing profile: Japan Color 2002 Newspaper without black point compensation (I think I used Relative Compensation). The only way I can get the yellow to show on the brown is to actually PRINT a brown paper background ON TOP of the brown colored paper. Obviously, this is causing the brown paper to look quite dark. The yellow is perfect and I've now lost every other color (Navy & 3 shades of Gray). They're all dull against the multi-layered brown. I have tried manipulating the yellow to be more green or more orange and sure enough, they turn out looking green or orange. Should I switch to CMYK instead of RGB? If orange is a variation of brown, why does orange show up on brown so much easier than yellow?
Is there a way to manipulate the newspaper profiles to adjust for browner paper rather than grayer paper?
I am sooo close but I literally cannot figure this out!! Please tell me there's a color profile combination I'm not aware of..... and please don't tell me that printing yellow on brown is impossible After all, we're photoshop users. It's possible; just have to figure out how.
Sincerely, One Desperate Designer

You may ask your printer whether he can use opaque yellow ink:
https://www.google.de/search?hl=de&as_q=&as_epq=opaque+yellow+ink&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as _nhi=&lr=&cr=&as_qdr=all&as_sitesearch=&as_occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=
Standard offset ink is transparent. The reflected light is always darker than the substrate.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

ONE page not rendering in I.E. 6, others fine.

I just finished my website, and all was well. Except now just
one page is having issues in I.E. 6. the main content is dropping
down to the bottom of the right column, and the background overlaps
the right side of the page by about 1". Have no idea why just in
this one page. Also having a general problem that this page and one
other have youtube video player(s) on them that won't show up at
all in I.E. 6. ( also a flash ad on the page won't show up) The
page that has the video players on the other page doesn't have this
rendering problem where the main content drops out of sight.
Hope someone can help. Just went live 2 days ago. Was hoping
wouldn't have any immediate issues.
Thanks

On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 21:31:16 +0000 (UTC), "kidcoconut"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just finished my website, and all was well. Except now
just one page is
>having issues in I.E. 6. the main content is dropping
down to the bottom of the
>right column, and the background overlaps the right side
of the page by about
>1". Have no idea why just in this one page. Also having a
general problem that
>this page and one other have youtube video player(s) on
them that won't show up
>at all in I.E. 6. ( also a flash ad on the page won't
show up) The page that
>has the video players on the other page doesn't have this
rendering problem
>where the main content drops out of sight.
File is incomplete and we need the css file(s) as well - or
better
still the url
~Malcolm~*...
~*

Pattern background overlap

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