Pixelation and Banding

Help - just today most of the photos appear on my display (iMac 24) as severely pixelated and banded in the darker areas. They still print okay. I am using 1.5.6 and Leopard. It is not the calibration on my display as I've imported several photos to iPhoto and there is no problem. Has anyone else experienced this and have you been able to resolve the issue.
DBake

I am thinking your discrete graphics chip may be toast.
You might be able to (with the help of a T500 owner) navigate through the BIOS to turn integrated graphics back on, but there's no guarantee.
I'd also try using an external monitor in case it's a different problem --but I think your pixelation and banding was the beginning indicators of your problem. Hopefully you still have warranty coverage; if not, I think you probably should have started talking to technical support when this started happening. You could very well need a mainboard replacement.
TP T420, i5-2520M, 8GB, 80GB mSATA+500GB HDD
HD+ with webcam and Optimus, Intel 6300 wifi, BT 3.0
Windows 7 x64 Enterprise SP1
Previous owner, T61, T400

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Pixels and terrible banding in dark areas - youtube compression

Hi,
I know that the topic has been discused plenty of times, but I wanted to have a confirmation from you that what I do is the maximum I can get from youtube.
In the link below you can see a few shots from our music video - it looks great on vimeo, but when uploaded on youtube, you can see some huge pixels, banding and generally bad quality in areas with low light. I tried a number of compression methods and tried to crush blacks a little bit, but the effect is still pretty bad in the shots with little light. My current settings are (using compressor): h.264, auto bitrate and keyframes, frame reordering unchecked, original frame rate and resolution (video shot in 720p). This is what youtube recommends on their website. I'm using noise to cover banding, but youtube doesn't seem to work well with it.
The link below has blacks lowered already, but that doesn't help too much. Any thoughts? Please let me know!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=xCgw_OW2wAI

Thanks a lot for the hints, I didn't know that a color profile can be added just like that. Still it seems that my automator is too old, as it has only SD, PAL and HD color profiles available (screenshot). I guess I would have to install the new OS to get the new version, as it doesn't have an update function... Just to see what it does, I've uploaded the pro res version with HD color profile added; same story as previously -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8Pc3wzcVrw
This is the vimeo version --> https://vimeo.com/63016609
You can still see some pixels and banding issues on vimeo especially when you look for it, but I think they're not that distracting and quality is way better that youtube. Another thing is, on vimeo I could only upload video up to 500 MB, while the initial export I used for youtube was above 1.5 GB. Not sure if the better source file would perform much better on vimeo?
I guess the video itself is quite an issue for online compression as the scenes are pretty dark, with blacks "blown out" and white flares that make banding even worse. But without these, that would be a different video, so these things have to stay and it would be good to make it work on youtube .

Photos in Monitor Pixelated and Offset

All - see screen shot below. Don't know why the photos in monitor are pixelated and offset (echeloned to right by bands).
The same ones in slideshow viewer are fine. The problem is, when I preview, I get the bad shots. Need help! Thanks...
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Details?
This is aimed at Premiere Pro, but may help
Work through all of the steps (ideas) listed at http://ppro.wikia.com/wiki/Troubleshooting
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I'm not an expert but I did create an iMovie from stills and I put it onto DVD a while back.
Does each picture need to be 4x3 (the dvd size stated).<<<</div>
Nope. Mine varied all over the map. However, when you view on a computer monitor or a conventional TV, anything other than 4X3 will have black bands to fill up the empty space. That's NOT a size - it's an "aspect ratio" - width X height ratio.
On the help page, it says standard needs to be 720 x 540.<<<</div>
That figure sounds like the pixel count for a conventional TV. If your photo has fewer pixels, the image will not fill the screen. If your photo has more pixels, the screen will show only a portion. Bottom line is that one pixel in your photo becomes one pixel on the screen. You'll have a worse situation with computer monitors because the resolution is configurable.
Also, how do I know if the resolution is good enough to print?<<<</div>
Ummm... In your first post, you said that you want to create a movie. You're not going to print from a movie.

Pixelated gradient banding problem

Hi, I've found that Photoshop CS4 has just developed a problem where gradients become pixelated and produce banding like in the image below.
This was produced by making repeated marks in the same place with a brush at 24% opacity.
I've also noticed banding in gradients.
I've been trying to research it and all of this has only just started to occur today, so I don't imagine it has anything to do with my monitor setup (particularly because of the pixelation), which is a commonly suggested answer.
This document setup was 8-bit, RGB Color mode, 72 dpi.
Thanks

Hello.
I just bought a Dell u2410 Ultrasharp verA02 and it's more like UltraBanding. At least I notice the banding much more on this monitor than on my older 19" samsung. In fact I didn't even notice the banding at all on that monitor. Tomorrow I will go back and check it again to make sure.
So are you all sure that it is not a monitor problem and more of a software / bit problem? Because when I switched my painting to 16 bit in Photoshop (CS3) I had the exact same banding problems (I was painting in RGB mode but in a range of gray values). You can see it really heavy on the grays! It's so unbelievably frustrating! Any help other than what has been offered thus far would be greatly appreciated.

I've been using Aperture now for the past 7 months and really happy with it, however in the past two days any photos I download are heavily pixelated and blurry. When I download the same shots to any other program they are fine.

Hi,
I've been using Aperture now for several months without any issues except for the last couple of days...when I now download my shots from the memory card the photos are heavily pixelated and blurry but when loaded to iPhoto they are fine.
Can someone tell me what the problem could be and how to fix it.

Is Aperture doing any processing? ("Window→Show Activity" -- anything there?)
Are the Images pixilated/degraded when shown in the Viewer as well as in the Browser? (Double-click an Image to open it in the Viewer.)
How 'bout at 100%? (In the Viewer, press "z" to zoom to 100%. The "z" key toggles the zoom.)
Does generating a new Preview remove the pixilation? (Select an Image in the Browser, hold down "{Option}" and click "Photos→Generate Preview".)

ITunes no longer imports track names and band name

Up until a week ago, when importing a CD into iTunes, the name of the track and band would appear however this no longer happens. Now only the Track # appear and no band name. I know I can edit this manually, but it quite cumbersome. There has to be an easy fix or change that will correct this problem where when I import a CD to my iTunes library the song title and band will appear. Resolutions please? Thank you!
Compaq Windows XP

Sorry, it took so long to respond. The computer is connected to the internet via a dedicated DSL line. As I mentioned, up until two weeks ago this was never a problem and really nothing has changed. I tried going under Advanced as you suggested but it came back with "Unable to connect to the CDDB server. The network connection was refused. Make sure you internet connection is active and your network settings are correct, then try again."
Any other suggestions? Thanks

Printing Blocks and Bands of Color

Two PC's (2000 & XP), an Officejet 7310 and a TV are connected to a wired ethernet router. Both PC's have been configured to use this printer as their default. It's the only printer connected right now.
This printer had no software disk when I found it. I got the latest drivers from the HP website in the form of "exe" files. The full featured driver failed to install properly on both PCs. I uninstalled that and installed the basic driver on the XP machine first, then on the 2000 PC. On the XP PC the installer failed to create a printer, and as I remember, never asked me any information about drivers or ports to use. I had to use the Add Printer Wizard to create a printer for it on the XP PC. The installer failed to create a printer on the 2000 PC also. The Add Printer Wizard could not find the printer until I marked the printer "shared" on the XP PC. Is that normal?
NOTE: When I tried to install the "full featured" driver software on the 2000 PC there was a warning that my hardware was below the minimum "recommended" level, but according to the HP website, I am well above the "recommended" level. (It is Compaq Deskpro, PentiumIII, 375MB RAM, 2GB free space) No such warning appeared when I installed the "Basic" driver software.
When I attempt to check ink levels with the HP Toolbox on both PC's I get the following error:
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I uninstalled the printer on the Win2000 PC so that I could record my steps exactly, and I also marked it "Do not share" on the XP PC because this should work (on the 2000 PC) with the XP PC shut down.
Please verify I did this properly: Here's how I recreated the printer in Windows 2000:
Started "Add Printer Wizard" => Next => select "Network Printer" + Next => Next (to browse for a printer) => (none were found) Back => select "Connect to a printer on the Internet or on your Intranet" + enter URL "192.168.0.101" + Next => "Error: could not connect to the printer" + OK => Back => select "Local Printer" + Next => select "Create new port" + "Type: Local port" + Next => Enter port name: "Local TCP" + OK => Manufacturers: "HP" + Printers: "HP Officejet" + Next => (keep existing driver) Next => Printer name: "HP Officejet 7310 on Local TCPIP" + select "Yes" (default) + Next => (do not share) Next => (Yes - print test page) Next => Finish.
No test page is printed.
Then I opened the Properties for the new printer => select "Ports" tab => Add Port... => select "Standard TCP/IP Port" + New Port... => the "Add Standard TCP/IP Printer Port Wizard" opens => Next => enter IP address "192.168.0.101" + Port name: "Local TCPIP" + Next => (some info, eg. "Protocol: RAW, Port 9100", Adapter type: "Hewlett Packard Jet Direct" {somehow it knew this time}) Finish => Close (Printer Ports dialog) => (new port appears with box checked) Apply => (printer name appears beside new port) => select "General" tab => (features: Color: "No") select "Advanced" tab => Printing Defaults... (it's a very simplistic driver) => Advanced... => (no options to control color) Cancel => Cancel => (Driver: "HP Officejet") select "HP Officejet 7300 series" in driver drop-down list + Apply => Select "General" tab => (Features: Color: "Yes") Print Test Page => (the windows logo is printed in color, but the text below says "Color support: No") select "Advanced" tab => Printing Defaults... => (sophisticated driver appears) select "Color" tab => remove check from "Print in grayscale" + OK => select "General" tab => Print Test Page => (test page looks good, says I now have color support) OK.
But still I get color blocks and bands on some pages when printing from Word, and I think on all AutoCAD plots when plotting through the system printer (which will have to be setup again in the Plotter Manager).
I also still get the same error trying to check ink levels.
What am I doing wrong? Shouldn't the installer have created the printer with all parameters properly set?

HPPSdr.exe says "Everything checks out okay with your product." The test page prints OK.
I also found the HP Hardware Diagnostic Utility 4.1, and it says "We're sorry, but the HP Officejet 7300 series is not currently supported by this utility."
The problem seems to be getting more prevalent and more extreme, sometimes printing solid black, off the edge of the page too, with some blocks of color mixed in. This is occuring from two computers (Compaq and Dell) with different operating systems (2000 and XP) and different versions of Microsoft Word (2000 and 2003).
What next?

When i open my computer I get the white screen with apple symbol and there are vertical lines all over the screen with green pixels and after a few minutes the screen gets grey and I get message to restart my computer what happens

3 years ago I bought an IMac Desktop that I am using for a lot of things but the most important for dvd montage in Imovies and Idvd.
Now today when I opened my computer I get as usual the white screen with the Apple symbol but there were all over the screen vertical lines with green pixels and after a while the screen gets grey and I get message to restart my computer using the power button or the restart button and when I do so each time the same is happening somebody can tell me what is happening and what caused this. This computer is my work and now I have no income anymore.
On the Apple support site they are asking to enter the serial number and when I do so I get message it is wrong but it is the only one I have and I buy this computer in Cairo Egypt. I am living in Hurghada in Egypt for the moment. When I call the technical support of the shop where I buy it they are telling me that it is the hard disk or ram and that I probably lost everything on it and they are asking a big amount to repair.
Can somebody advise me on this matter. Thanks in advance

You can find the serial number either in About this Mc in the Menu bar under the , or it should be on a sticker under the foot of the machine.
If you have the install discs, try booting from them, holding down the c key and then using Disk Utility to check the drive.
You can also boot into Safe mode
To start up into Safe Mode (to "Safe Boot"), do this:
   1. Be sure the computer is shut down.
   2. Press the power button.
   3. Immediately after you hear the startup tone, press and hold the Shift key.
      Tip: The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone but not before.
   4. Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple and progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
During the startup in Mac OS X 10.2 through 10.3.9, you will see "Safe Boot" on the Mac OS X startup screen.
During the startup in Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you will see "Safe Boot" on the login window, which appears even if you normally log in automatically.
Please post back with results,
To leave Safe Mode in any version of Mac OS X, restart the computer normally, without holding any keys during startup.

Will warranty cover 1 dead pixel and an incredibly annoying screen flicker?

Problems:
1) I have 1 dead pixel on my iPod Touch and it's very annoying as it sticks out because the entire screen is black, and there is just this dot of light
2) I sometimes use my iPod Touch in the dark, so this means that I keep the contrast at the lowest level, as it being too bright hurts my eyes. The problem with this is that the screen flickers between contrasts slightly and it ends up making me feel dizzy.
I've tried turning the auto brightness option to off to prevent the above, but it doesn't make any difference. I've also tried turning the contrast slightly up too, but still it flickers slightly.
Any advice?
Thanks

The warranty will cover a dead pixel and the flickering screen. But before we get drastic, let's do some troubleshooting. Try a hard reset by holding the home and sleep/wake button at the same time until the Apple logo appears on screen. Skip the slide to power off screen.

Exporting sequence from Final Cut Pro 7, some clips are pixellated and bad quality, does this have anything to do with the fact that I changed those clips speed?

Hello,
Bit of a beginner using Final Cut Pro 7
Am currently trying to export a sequence using quicktime conversion. Sequence has various filters and effects over it and when I export it some of the clips are pixellated and appear to have not exported correctly. From what I can gather the affected clips have either been slowed down or made faster. I am wondering whether this is the reason they have not exported correctly
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers

More information needed.
Codec of material?
Sequence settings? (codec)
fwiw - do not use quicktime conversion. Use Export Quicktime with Current Settings enabled then do any format conversions in Compressor.
x

I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money? Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound? Will I need adaptors and a interface?

Can anybody help?
I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
Will I need adaptors and an interface?
Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

Can anybody help?
I am considering buying a new MAC laptop to run LOGIC for composition and band live/recording, but which one is best as I do not want to spend too much money?
Does it have a line in and how do you monitor sound?
Will I need adaptors and an interface?
Also, I am guessing as Logic only runs on MAC surely then they would not the best spec to recommend to run it?
I see all the upgrades as additional memory or a faster process?
Is a retina screen necessary, and why flash based storage against a 1TB hard drive, and a i5 instead of an i7
The main reason for this purchase is to play live and use backing tracks and record found sounds and make creative songs.
I hope you can provide some valuable feedback, as I am a longtime MAC user and see upgrades and changes happen regularly but the most important thing is the songs not the equipment.
I have £500 already and willing to add another 500 to 700 pounds, then software extra.

My refurbished rMBP 15" has a stuck (white) pixel and is still under the 1 year limited warranty, can/will Apple repair it if I go to an Apple Store?

Hi, my refurbished rMBP 15" has a stuck (white) pixel and is still under the 1 year limited warranty, can/will Apple repair it if I go to an Apple Store?
I just discovered today that my MacBook has a "stuck" pixel. I read that the display has to have at least 5 dead/stuck pixels else Apple is not going to repair it, is it true? My warranty expires in 1 month so I can't really wait for 4 more pixels to die or get stuck.
Temporary fix:
I know that this is something I can't really repair myself, but I tried some things such as changing the display resolution to it's "Full" 2880x1800 resolution and It actually reduced the size of the stuck pixel.
Thank You,
Etienne
MacBook Pro 15-inch (Mid 2012) with Retina display (2.3Ghz Intel Core i7, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, GT650M)
Running Mac OS X 10.10

Hello etienne255,
After reviewing your post, I have located an article that can help with questions concerning pixel anomalies:
About LCD display pixel anomalies for Apple products released before 2010 - Apple Support
If you suspect your display contains a high number of pixel anomalies, take your Apple product to an Apple Authorized Service Provider for closer examination.
Thank you for contributing to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
BobbyD

My iphone 4s suddenly displays images from Yahoo, Google, and Flickr at low resolution. The camera on my phone works fine, but any web related photo content is now pixelated and low res, what's the deal?

My iphone 4s suddenly displays images from Yahoo, Google, and Flickr at a low resolution. I have IOS 7.0.4. My phone camera works fine, but any web based photo content from Safari, Yahoo images, Google images, and Flickr all come in pixelated and low res. What's the deal?

It happened to me but later I figured out that cellular signal was not that great and so the Internet was very slow. It took me about 2 minutes to get the full resolution picuture on either of the app you've described. Try to get faster internet either by wifi or good signal and then check.

Why is everything pixelated and blurry in CS6?

Hi,
A few months ago I installed the trial versions of Adobe Indesign, Illustrator and Photoshop on my MacBookPro. After they expired I purchased the standard student edition and used the provided key number to unlock the full versions. However, everything (including the sample fonts list, icons and opening menu) are pixelated and blurry. As a design student, it is incredibly distracting to see font that isn't smooth like it should be on a retina display...
I've updated Indesign to version 8.0.1 but to no avail. What could be wrong and how might I solve this problem?
Thank you,
Cuong

@Tereyn "Since the originator has not stated that the software was tested on a non-retina display how can he/she or you be sure the display is the origin of the problem?"
Yes he does say that he is using a retina display.. Did you even read the post.
"As a design student, it is incredibly distracting to see font that isn't smooth like it should be on a retina display..."
If you have another problem why don't you create your own post?
It's still annoying for me that there isn't a retina fix yet and it's been a few years now. It's just a few menu icons. Fix the retina issue please!

Pixelation and Banding

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