Possible loosening solder in my G4?

I've been having a lot of trouble with startup and waking from sleep on an iBook G4 I have. Four months ago, the original hard drive in the computer refused to mount and died, and during that time I'd been getting a lot of kernel panic screens, so I thought the hard drive had just been failing. With a new hard drive now, I was devastated to see that same terrifying screen during a boot the day after my self-performed computer hardware transplant, one of which I took pride in.
However, I believe I may have diagnosed the problem. After perusing the internet for information on common iBook problems, I found that many people were having kernel panic screens upon startup and waking from sleep when the computer wasn't "warmed up". The reason for this was a faulty solder on the internal RAM, or some other component. I've found consistency in the screens, too. The computer only panics upon startup and waking from sleep, and this always happens when in a cold environment, especially outside or in a cold classroom. In my house, the computer has absolutely no problems upon startup. Could I possibly have one of these faulty solder joints on an internal component?

Because hard drives connected to ATA and SATA controller cards should be bootable, the cards must contain a Mac ROM, which makes them firmware-based. Cards that require drivers are driver-based, but because the driver is written on the hard drive, it's read after the hard drive has begun the startup sequence. A driver-based controller card wouldn't be useful, because its driver could never be read before the card and connected drive(s) are recognized.

Similar Messages

****Is it possible one sold party has different ship to party how?

****Is it possible one sold party has different ship to party how?

Please try in your system and update here
G. Lakshmipathi

Will not load OS

I have a MacBook Pro 17" model # A1151 - 2.16Ghz - I believe the original ones. I received it from a relative who, just before giving to me, dropped it on the left side denting the case. It was running fine until I wiped the hard drive and tried to install a clean OS. Errors out every time with about 28 minutes left on the install. Get random messages as to why. Brought it to the Genius Bar and they said it possibly be the flex cable for the hard drive.
I have taken the whole thing apart (I have experience doing this) and examined every part. No visible signs of breakage.
My question: Has anybody had this happen to them and what was the solution? I really don't have the money to have Apple or a local shop repair it and frankly I can do the work myself except for the most important part. The diagnosing of the problem.
Any help would be be greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately, with a drop, it's almost impossible to say for sure what the problem may be. Most problem will not not be visible to the naked eye unless there is an very obvious breakage. A drop can cause internal shorts, loosen solder points, and any number of things that you just won't see.
Depending on how badly the machine was dropped, the problem may be with the optical drive... one of the few mechanical components in the machine. Another possibility is that the hard drive may have been damaged. You may want to run the hardware test just to make sure everything is working okay. Just because it was running okay before you tried to reinstall the OS doesn't mean that there can't be an issue with the hard drive. You may actually be better off finding out there is a problem now before having invested any time putting important data on it which may have been lost at some point in the future.
The fact that everything seemed okay before you tried to reinstall the OS is a good sign. It likely means a hard drive or optical drive problem. The hard drive is easy enough to replace... the optical drive is a little more work but you sound as though you could probably handle that or just use an external drive.

Multiple-point Hardware And Software Failures in Two, Separate and Not-connected Computers At The Same Time...

A few days ago, I was working on a restoration of a 100-years-or-so-old Calculus book on one of my Linux based computers, while my other computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system was serving as Broadcast TV receiver with its USB HDTV tuner
in the afternoon. The weather in Los Angeles was summer-like in November, with clear skies and 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. All of a sudden, my Linux based computer halted in the middle of the processing it had performed hundreds of times
before in hotter days. It would not restart. The entire boot block of the disk seemed to have been garbled. This did not seem even feasible at all, so I decided to shut its power off for a while. It came back up after a while,
and everything looked normal. Then, it did the same thing again. I decided to open its cover and check on its multiple fans as there was nothing else that could go wrong.
I then noticed that the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating system which had been receiving the broadcast TV, was displaying a freshly-booted log-in screen. It had "Blue-screened" while I was working on the other computer
across the large room. This again did not seem any feasible as there had been utterly no connection between these two computers. Even the AC power line circuit was different. Furthermore, this computer had the most extensive air-cooling system
I had built to have it work through 107 degree Fahrenheit temperatures indoors. Anyway, I logged back in and started the broadcast TV reception again. Sure enough, after a while it "blue-screened" one more time...
I went back to the Linux-based computer and found all of its fans operating, but with somewhat hotter disk drives. The problem was that in hotter days, the same computer had cooler disk drives with nothing different. I concluded that somehow
the 80 mm fan mounted in the front side of the case, with its side with rotating blades clamped on the perforated part of the steel case serving as the fan grill, was starting up fine. But, as the time passed the spring-loaded rotating hub was slowly
drawn toward the perforated steel case by two means: The partial vacuum formed by the suction generated by the blades of the fan, and by the magnetic attraction of the rotating hub with electro-magnets in it to the partially magnetized, perforated steel casing.
The first effect was always there, so it was not the real cause, but once something else came along, it really helped the latter. The hub was slowly drawn to the perforated steel casing due to magnetic attraction, with the holes in the casing
inducing a huge air-drag on the hub blades as there was no by-pass around to supply the extra-air needed to reduce the partial vacuum. In addition, the rotating hub with the electro-magnets now was very close to the conducting metal surface and the induced
eddy-currents in the metal by the moving electro-magnets had added even more drag on the rotating hub, causing it to come nearly to a halt. The disk drive electronics was heating up and was causing DMA access faults which in turn caused the Linux kernel
to panic and halt.
Well, this was nearly unbelievable, but true... I had not brought any magnets into the room and I still do not know how the computer case got magnetized. It has been working at the same location for years. The solution was to move the fan
away from the perforated steel casing a little so that some air could come in through the gaps on the sides of the fan (hence supplying a by-pass), reducing the partial vacuum in front of the fan. This kept the rotating hub far enough away to prevent
the massive induced eddy-current drag from slowing the fan down to a halt. The computer now works perfectly with the very same fan as it has had been doing for years.
The real solution is to saw the perforated part of the steel casing in front of the fan away, and to replace it with a better fan grill. The best fan grill material I have found is the finely perforated, thin, black aluminum sheet that is usually
used as a car audio speaker grill. In fact, I use these in my Microsoft Windows Vista based computer. The fans are quieter, with more air flow. It also keeps dust away and you can brush the collected dust off easily.
The next problem was the halting of the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system with a blue-screen. The fans in it could not be the cause of this, as it had already had the best improvements I could put in it, with even
externally powered fans that did not load the computer power supply. And, all of the fans were working well. In the meantime, the Microsoft November 2014 updates for the Microsoft Windows Vista came out, and as usual I told the computer to
load and to implement them. Sure enough, the computer again "blue-screened" in the middle of the update procedure.
That was somewhat too much, but there was nothing else I could do other than to debug it. I had not changed anything in the computer and its power supply, completely internally updated by myself a few years ago, was working perfectly. Whatever
was causing it was not in the hardware. It was not in the November 2014 software updates either as it "blue-screened" before those were announced. I brought the computer back up after several disk and other software checks and after the
completion of the updates, I gingerly turned the network modem on. I then sent the reports on the six failures (three "blue-screen" type failures and three "Anti-malware Executable" failures) to Microsoft with all of details
requested using the Microsoft Windows Vista problem reporting system. Within minutes, the Microsoft came up with a diagnosis that the USB driver code in the system had a serious bug. I had not changed this code in years. It suggested that
I should use the "Microsoft Fix-It" for this problem and it pointed to a link to download it. I did download it. It ran and the "blue-screen" problem just went away, as if it had never been there...
-- Yekta

I ordered the capacitors on Friday and they arrived on Monday, November 17, 2014. I removed the motherboard from the machine, by removing all PCI and AGP boards, drive and fan connectors and the computer power supply first. The motherboard then
simply unbolted from the case and came out with the CPU fan assembly still attached.
I wrapped the solder side of the motherboard with aluminum foil and set up a work place with the aluminum foil under the motherboard and myself electrically well grounded. Here came another surprise: There were four more capacitors of the same
kind just behind the CPU fan assembly and their tops were also deformed with one of them leaking the electrolyte inside from the the top. Luckily, I had ordered more than two capacitors to get the quantity discount and the lower rate of shipping.
I do use them in other circuits I occasionally build.
Technically, the only thing one needed to do was to unsolder the six old capacitors from the motherboard and to solder six new ones in in their place with the correct polarities. However, due to fact that the capacitors span the 3.3 V power plane and
the ground plane in the multi-layer motherboard, it is nearly impossible to unsolder these capacitors using regular, fine-tip soldering irons. The thick copper of the power and the ground planes carry the soldering iron heat away very fast, preventing
the solder from melting quickly. Continuous application of heat at this point will simply burn the internal insulating epoxy layers and cause shorts inside the motherboard which are impossible to fix in any reasonable amount of time.
The only reasonable way to remove these capacitors was to dismantle the capacitors from the top leaving their already soldered leads in place. The new capacitors were then tack soldered to these stubs using lead-free, hard solder. However, the
CPU fan assembly and the CPU itself had to be removed from the board to be able to work on these capacitors.
To dismantle the capacitors from the top, I first drilled small holes at the tops of the capacitors at the intersections of the indentations using the tip of a hobbyist's knife. I then used needle nosed pliers to peel back the triangular sections
of aluminum from the center at the tops to their bases at the top edges of the capacitors. Next, I removed the plastic layers covering the outside of the capacitors by scoring the plastic layers first from the bottom to the top using the tip of
the hobbyist's knife and peeling the plastic layers off starting at the cut. The following step was to cut the aluminum cans of the capacitors from the top to the bottom using the hobbyist's knife like a can opener. One could not use a saw like
tool here to accomplish the feat as the saws generated very fine metal chips which were very hard to remove and were certain to cause shorts in the densely populated mother board. The cans were then peeled off the rest of the capacitors starting from
the top at the cuts using needle nose pliers, revealing the spiral-wound metal-paper layers of the capacitors.
The wound layers of the capacitors were peeled off layer by layer by cutting into the layers from the top to the bottom, leaving only the two aluminum electrodes which were crimped and soldered to the leads of the capacitors. The picture below shows
the six capacitors with one of them dismantled (left) and with all of them dismantled (right):
The black disks below the aluminum electrodes are the rubber plugs covering the bottoms of the capacitors. The rubber plugs were then cut in half using the hobbyist's knife and removed using the needle nose pliers. It was not possible to
solder to the aluminum electrodes, so these were trimmed at the point they were crimped on the leads of the capacitors, leaving only the stubs of the capacitors' leads soldered to the motherboard.
The new capacitors with suitably trimmed leads were then soldered to these stubs with the correct polarities using lead-free, hard solder. The capacitors were lightly bonded together using a flexible glue to prevent them from moving. The picture
below shows the new capacitors as installed into the motherboard:
I then assembled everything back together and turned the computer on. The BIOS complained on the boot screen that the CPU was out of its socket and it needed to be reset. I set BIOS parameters correctly to their original values. The computer
came up and worked without any problems. I typed this message on my newly repaired computer running the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system.
By the way, the manufacturing date on the motherboard is 09/12/2002 and the CPU is a Socket-478, 2.4 GHz, Intel Pentium-4.
-- Yekta

HT4061 Can you lock out a stolen iPod

My step daughters iPod was stolen and could have possibly been sold to purchase drugs I just want to lock it out so whoever has it can't use it

- If you previously turned on FIndMyiPod on the iPod in Settings>iCloud and wifi is on and connected go to iCloud: Find My iPhone, sign in and go to FIndMyiPhone. If the iPod has been restored it will never show up.
- You can also wipe/erase the iPod and have to iPod play a sound via iCloud.
- If not shown, then you will have to use the old fashioned way, like if you lost a wallet or purse.
- Change the passwords for all accounts used on the iPod and report to police
- There is no way to prevent someone from restoring the iPod (it erases it) using it.
- Apple will do nothing without a court order
Reporting a lost or stolen Apple product
- iOS: How to find the serial number, IMEI, MEID, CDN, and ICCID number

Need to ID G4 part:socket came off logic board (blue & white power cable

In the course of disassembling a G4 iBook the socket for the blue & white power cable wiring harness broke off the logic board.
I am trying to learn the correct desciption of this part so I can find a replacement. The wires on the bottom which were soldered to the board broke off.
Even after it was broken off, and I had leverage, I had to use two pairs of pliers to get the plug out of this socket. It should never have been assembled so tightly.

Spud-- I'm going to use conductive epoxy; I don't have access to anyone with micro soldering skills.
re previous posts -- unfortunately the Search logic is not precise enough to ask about this particular connector. Any search containing "logic board" gets swamped with the famous failure issue.
I went to an electronics specialty store and they didn't have any connectors of that style, let alone size. I'd like to replace the socket so I can use the existing plug on the blue & white wire.
Last night I spend some hours surfing "connector" etc and didn't see any photos that matched it on any distributor/manufacturer sites. So I'm still wondering what the correct descriptive word is, as used in the trade.
My "backup" iBook G3/Panther is taking about 30 seconds to load an average web page though. Spinner locks it up while loading one at a time. Wonder if installing Tiger and a newer Safari would help? I just got a chip to max out the memory, still have to install it.
For those who haven't seen it, the plug is a solid rectangle with two holes; the socket has a rectangular single cavity with two prongs sticking up from the bottom. TINY, THIN prongs.
The socket bottom has no leads on it (anymore). They are broken off flush with the plastic on the bottom. I was thinking of using a dental burr to grind into them, creating a small cavity, and then using conductive epoxy. I don't know if the bottom plastic is thick enough; if I go too far then it would ruin the prongs sticking up in the cavity.
But I could epoxy a wire stub, as long as possible to still fit into the space above the board & below the top of the shield/case. Then epoxy each wire to the pad on the board. The pads are about 1 mm x 2 mm or less, and worse, the gap between them is under 1mm wide. I'll have to goop some insulating silicone putty in that gap before putting tiny dabs of epoxy on the pads.
I bought some larger socket/plugs at the store, the socket part has no leads in it though. These sockets are they type that use the wire lead of the style shown in your photo of the repaired plug. I also got some different ones with flat prongs.
I'd like to move the connection point from the board to under the case top -- the blue & white wire runs all the way from the other side of the case. I just need a thin enough connector. Worst case -- leave as much slack wire length as possible and solder a Western Union splice.
If I can epoxy leads to the board without shorting between the pads I can figure something out. Need to carefully estimate the space available. Or as you say, just make some prongs.
You say #26 is the right wire gauge -- that's vital data. I don't want to undersize the power leads !
I'm also going to paint non-conductive coating on the board around the pad area, so I can slop the epoxy without worrying about shorting a trace. I've had to do some scraping to remove the gummy gluey stuff -- I presume its silicone adhesive of some kind.
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1." The traces look like they go to the socket. I wonder if they use that to use alligator clips to power up the board during assembly testing? That location is much, much larger than the pads for the socket.

K8N Neo 2 Platinum -- Hanging during boot --RESOLVED--

Heres the problem...
My system will hang during boot at anytime, from bios initalization to full windows boot (No BSOD ever and where the pc hangs in the boot proccess is totally random). And the only way to get past the hang is do a soft reset. I have to restart my system up to 3 times before I get a good boot, but once the pc is up and running, it stay running till I shut it down. (no hangs)
Now if I shut it down after the system has been running for a while, the pc will restart normally without any hangs. The hangs only occur after the pc has been down for a time.
I have reseated all the connectors, the memory (even tried different slots), add-in cards, cpu.
I have a clean install of Windows XP Pro (hard drives have been repartitioned and reformatted as NTFS)
All fans are spinning up fine, all temps are within norm, power supply voltages are within norm.
No phsysical signs of bad caps on the system board.
I ran ran Memtest86 for 18 hours striaght with no errors.
Ran CPU stress test with no problems.
No IRQ,DMA,etc conflicts found.
Windows records no errors during a freeze and I have checked for unwanted services/proccess as well.
I have tried min install to no avail.
Bois is retaining its settings (so bios battery is good)
I do not over clock anything. Bios is set to discover all important setting automaticly. (Bios setting are the same now as they were 6 months ago)
I am down to a possible cold solder joint on the system board?
This problem started to occur about a month ago.
If someone has seen this exact problem and has a resolution, well I would appreciate it if you passed along your knowladge
I am down to my last option of RMAing my system board. No. I have not replaced any components due to the fact I don't have extras lieing around nor can I spend the money just to troubleshoot :(
Specs..
Athlon 64 3500+
2 gig (pqi TURBO 1GB 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered System Memory Model PQI3200-1024SB) Ran in Dual config
Geforce 6800 (BFG 6800 GT oc)
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Antec NeoPower 480
2 WD 36gig SATA Raptors in raid 0 (system partition)
2 WD 120gig IDE in raid 0 (data partition)
Windows XP Pro
all drivers and bios are manufacture ref and up-to-date.
Ok I won't go into all the details of why I missed this but it turns out the northbridge heatsink fan had stopped spinning and thus the hangs during boot due to overheating (hhmmm, when I step back and look at this the symptoms point right to overheating).
This also expains why after several attempts at booting up, once the pc was up it would run like a champ. The chip would of course overheat and cause random freezes. Now due to the placement of the chip and the design of the heatsink once there was enough airflow over the heatsink the chip would remain cool enough to prevent further freezing of the system.
What helped to facilitate this is that I have a ducted fan system installed in the bottom of my case which directs a substantal amount of fresh air to the pci slots, the chip set and the AGI slot as well.
So what have we learned class?
1. check the obvious
2. do a complete physical inspection of your system
3. KISS -- keep it simple stupid

Is this your ram:
Quote
Part Number: PQI3200-1024SB
Quality Control: Comprehensively and rigorously tested
Package: 1024MB single pack
Organization: 128M x 64-bit
CAS Latency: 3-4-4-8
Test Voltage: 2.6 V
PCB Board: 8 Layers PCB
Heat Spreader: Mirrored Black Copper
Speed: DDR 400 MHz (PC3200)
Type: 184-pin DDR SDRAM
Error Checking: Non-ECC
Registered/Unbuffered: Unbuffered
Warranty: Lifetime
This is a quote from MSI web site:
Quote
Main Memory
• Supports dual channel DDR 266/333/400, using four 184-pin DDR DIMMs.
• Supports the memory size up to 4GB
• Supports 2.5v DDR SDRAM DIMM
Due to the High Performance Memory design, motherboards or system configurations may or may not operate smoothly at the JEDEC (Joint Electron Device Engineering Council) standard settings (BIOS Default on the motherboard) such as DDR voltage, memory speeds and memory timing. Please confirm and adjust your memory setting in the BIOS accordingly for better system stability.
Example: Kingston HyperX DDR500 PC4000 operates at 2.65V, 3-4-4-8, CL=3.
For more information about specification of high performance memory modules, please check with your Memory Manufactures for more details.
Manually adjust your ram voltage to 2.65 volts and then manually adjust your ram timings to 3-4-4-8-2T.
If that does not work then do as Richard suggested and strip down to a bar-bone system, this is CPU+fan, 1 stick of ram (try other stick and different slots as one may be bad), graphic card and PS-2 keyboard, if it boots fine without any problems then add one device at a time until you find the problem.
Post back results as there are more things one can try but lets start with the simple stuff and work up.

IEEE 1394 add-on

Hello. I have the K8N Neo4-F (PCB 1.0)(MS-7125) motherboard, and I was wondering if it is possible to solder an IEEE 1394 connector onto the board and have it work? I noticed that on the board, there is a clearly marked set of solder points for a 1394 connector, and the manual calls it J1394_1 (optional). Apparently I got the option without the 1394 connector, but since the boards with that connector would use the same BIOS, would sticking my own in that slot work?

Ya i agree with Stick choice using the add-on card such as PCI. It's much more safe and cheap.

MidiO to drive external synth sequencer

does anyone have any experience with this at all.
I have crossed my fingers hoping Apple would add midi out to GB so that GB could add and expand to play external synth sounds thru midi. AUDIO Is another thing alltogether. Getting the timing right and having the ext synth sound play in time with GB's sequencer would i think make GB more powerful than ever.
Has anyone successfully done this and what is the set up?
i have GB08 10.5.5 but will upgrade or do anything to have this possibility.
gl

just sold a korg top of the line
but will consider buying a lesser model if this midiO really works
i thought others would have some experience
few here ever do
will post at logic too

Pismo worth hanging on to?

Have a G3 Pismo specs are as follows:
500 Mhz processor
512 MB of RAM
20GB OEM HD
Airport installed and working
OS X 10.4 Tiger
OEM DVD-ROM drive
I bought it back in 2006 on Ebay for about 300 bucks. At the time it had a working battery. Now, the main battery is dead, no charge at all, AND the PRAM battery was just removed because the Powerbook wouldn't even turn on with it still in. (Learned that here on the Apple forums)
The LCD has that pinkish hue when you first power on the computer. It's fine after about 3 minutes however.
The system has the original Toshiba 20GB 4200 RPM HD that is starting to show it's age. It frequently clicks, and sometimes "stalls." By that I mean you could be calling up something as simple as the Finder, and the HD will make a clicking noise, the system freezes for about 5 seconds, and then the Finder will come up.
I recently re-installed a fresh copy of OS X 10.4 Tiger because I had the intent of putting it back up on Ebay for sale.
My question to everyone here is, do you think this machine is worth me hanging on to for any reason? I've shopped around for all the upgrades I need to get in order to get everything working 100%, and being that I already paid 300 bucks, I'm not sure if it's worth putting any more money into a computer that can barely play Youtube videos.
It's been a great machine, but I think it's run it's course. Anyone else care to weigh in?
Looking on Ebay I see a few of these, but it doesn't appear I'll be able to get more than $50 USD for this. Should I hang onto this machine and hope that it will be worth more as a vintage computer that could possibly be sold to a museum or a collector 20 something odd years down the road?
Michael

PowerMikeG3:
It depends on what you mean by worth keeping. If the machine were working properly and it did the job for you, it is certainly worth keeping. From a point of view of any value as a collector's item, I don't know any of us can offer an opinion on that.
From a practical point of view, to get your computer operating properly you will need a new internal HDD. That will cost approximately $50 to $75 depending on the size of the drive. A PRAM battery will cost around $20 to $30. The main battery will cost over $100 for a new one. If you can replace the HDD and the PRAM battery yourself you are looking at something in the neighborhood $200 in parts. The question no is whether it is worth fixing it up, or putting that toward another computer. Trouble is, if you bought another used, low cost machine, you may need to put money into to keep it working.
Tough decision. Only you can decide what is best in your situation.
cornelius

T61 backlight issue at start up.

Hi all,
I really appreciate any help or suggestions. I have very little knowledge of the workings of computers, except what I have been learning while trying to fix this problem. I am in the middle of bar prep and need to have my computer as I am doing the bar prep online.
System (I can provide any other information needed, if that would help)
I have a T61 (7658-CTO).
Accelerator in Use is Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family.
Video BIOS: 1436
Driver Version is 8.15.10.1867
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate, Service Pack 1 (6.1.7601)
What happened. My computer was running Windows Vista and working fine. I was enrolled at the Univ of Washington and part of the tuition covered Windows 7 and Microsoft Office with everything. So, I went and had both installed on my computer. Afterwards, my computer began crashing and often I would get BSOD with code 116. I looked this up and it was the display driver. I downloaded the newest driver 8.15.10.1867 and that problem seems to have gone away.
My new problem has only been occurring for the past 2 days. When I first start up my computer in morning, the backlight goes after a few seconds. (I am currently living in a cold basement, so last night I made sure that the computer was kept in a warmer part of the home, but the problem still occurred this morning.) I am able to get the blacklight to work again if I hit fn F7. However, this it only stays on for between 3 to 20 seconds and then it shuts off again. I had to do this about 15 times today and I am worried that I may be doing more damage to my system. The weird thing is that once the computer has been on for about 20 minutes, the problem seems to go away. (I am basing this assumption on the fact that the last 2 days that the computer began running fine after about 20 minutes.) I am worried that this problem will get worse to the point that I cannot do my bar prep, or even worse have a problem during the actual bar exam.
Any information would be helpful.
Thanks,
Brian

richk wrote:
It is hard to be sure without seeing it, but my guess is that the backlight bulb is dying.
I agree with richk, and just to clarify, the backlight bulb is part of the lcd assembly. It's not a part that is normally serviceable. It is possible to solder a new bulb into your lcd, but in many cases the assembly is glued and or spot welded together, plus opening the lcd assembly should be done in a "clean-room", as the lens act like dust magnets and it's nearly imposible to remove all the dust once it gets in. Unless I had some rare type of LCD screen that couldn't be replaced at a reasonable price, I wouldn't bother trying to replace a backlight, but if you enjoy such a challenge, then it could save you some money, but even with an optimistic outcome, you'll have a less then perfect screen when you're done.
ThinkPad W-510 i7-820QM(1.73-3.06GHz) Quad Core... ThinkPad T500, T9900, 8gb SSD...FrankNpad T-60p/61p (X9000 2.8ghz) 8gb SSD ips FlexView...ThinkPad T-61p (T9300 2.5ghz) 8gb ram...Thinkpad X-61 Tablet 4gb ram...ThinkPad A-31 (1.9ghz P4 1.5gb ram)

Is It possible for a Non Shippable Inventory Item sold in OM update INVENTORY Levels

Is It possible for a Non Shippable Inventory Item sold in OM update INVENTORY Levels?
I have created an Item which is inventory tracked but not shippable. Customer & Internally Ordered. But upon booking the Sales Order, the INVENTORY level of the said item does not get updated with the sale.
How can i make it update INVENTORY without going thru shipping module?
thanks.

Hi Jay
How are you.
Yes, in process sampling only.
Is it not neccessary to have a wip validity rule for wip products in the specs. I am able to create samples for wip products with inventory validity rule.
Regards
Prem.

I sold my iPhone4, and I need to restore it before shipping it. The buyer has asked that I don't install iOS6. Is this possible? Does the restore process force iOS6 onto the phone? Before I backup/restore it, it has iOS5.1.1 installed.

I sold my iPhone4, and I need to restore it before shipping it. The buyer has asked that I don't install iOS6. Is this possible? Does the restore process force iOS6 onto the phone? Before I backup/restore it, it has iOS5.1.1 installed.
Thanks in advance.
jj

Just go to Settings>General>Reset>Reset all Content and Settings

I sold my Imac and would like to wipe it out but keep the major programs is that possible?

I sold my Imac and I would like to wipe it out passwords and all but keep the programs that have been purchased, is that possible and how do you do it?

Not really. You should just start clean.
Prepare Your Mac for Sale
Boot from the OS X Installer Disc One that came with the computer. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select the startup volume from the left side list then click on the Erase tab. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled) then click on the Options button. Select the one pass Zero Data option and click on the OK button. Then click on the Erase button.
Note: You can skip the Zero Data option if you are not concerned about removing sensitive personal data from the hard drive. If you choose to skip this part of the process then it is possible for others to recover data from the hard drive. The Zero Data procedure will prevent others from getting access to your personal information.
This process will take 30 minutes to several hours depending upon the size of the hard drive. After formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Now complete the OS X installation. At the completion of the installation do not restart the computer. Instead just shut it off. The next user will be presented with the Setup Assistant when they turn on the computer just as it would if new out of the box.

HT4910 sold my ipad today. the concern is how to access all info stored in cloud and if possible eventualy merge data into new andriod tablet. Thanks all of you who respond.

sold my ipad today. the concern is how to access all info stored in cloud and if possible eventualy merge data into new andriod tablet. Thanks all of you who respond.

>
<IfModule mod_weblogic.c>
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007,127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7103,127.0.0.1:7104
MatchExpression /app1
</IfModule>
<Location /weblogic>
SetHandler weblogic-handler
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007,127.0.0.1:7103,127.0.0.1:7104
DebugConfigInfo ON
PathTrim /weblogic
</Location>
<IfModule mod_weblogic.c>
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007
MatchExpression /app2
</IfModule>
<Location /weblogic>
SetHandler weblogic-handler
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007
DebugConfigInfo ON
PathTrim /weblogic
</Location>
>
This configuration is weird little bit. There is MatchExpression /app1 and MatchExpression /app2 and at the same time two <Location /weblogic> sections. Are you sure you understand what that configuration stands for?
Try something like this ...
<Location /app1>
SetHandler weblogic-handler
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007,127.0.0.1:7103,127.0.0.1:7104
DebugConfigInfo ON
</Location>
<Location /app2>
SetHandler weblogic-handler
WebLogicCluster 127.0.0.1:7003,127.0.0.1:7005,127.0.0.1:7007
DebugConfigInfo ON
</Location>
where /app1 and /app2 are contexts of your weblogic applications.
http://download.oracle.com/docs/cd/E11035_01/wls100/plugins/apache.html
http://httpd.apache.org/docs/2.0/mod/core.html#location

Possible loosening solder in my G4?

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