Power supply 110v?

Can my imac, flat panel, be used in the US where the power supply is 110v?

Yes; see this article for more information on using Macs with different line voltages.
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Similar Messages

  • Will the Sony Bravia KLV32 402A (19.5 V DC) purchased in India works in USA where power supply 110V

    Will the Sony Bravia KLV32 402A (19.5 V DC) purchased in India works in USA where power supply 110V. I know that the TV support Both NTSC (USA adopted standard) and PAL (India Adopted Statndard). I want to know about the Power supply, DO I need any external adapter to convert or I can just plug in TV with a normal adapter to change the Socket pin.?

  • Is WRT1900AC power supply 110v only?

    For those who have this does it say "110v" or "110-240v" on the power brick?
    Cheers
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    It is a standard 100-240V switching power supply.
    I can't think of the last time I saw one that didn't support all AC voltages.
    However, what is really, really stupid, bordering on asinine, is the length of the removable power cable from the supply to the wall socket. It's less than 21 inches (~52cm). Seriously, it's completely useless. I had to use a power cable from something else I had laying around so it would, combined with the permanently attached cable that plugs into the router, reach to the top of the bookshelf that I have the router on (for the best wireless range) from the wall socket.
    The power cable barely reaches to the ground from the wall socket, it's that short.

  • I bought my macbook pro in the US. can i use it in china? (P.S the power in the US is 110v, in China is 220v, however, the mac power supply has said: "Input: 100~240v")

    i bought my macbook pro in the US. can i use it in china? (P.S the power in the US is 110v, in China is 220v, however, the mac power supply has said: "Input: 100~240v")

    The Magsafe autoswitches based on detected power.  You will likely need a wall adapter to alter ther US-based 3-prong to whatever is used in China.

  • 3750X, Dual Power Supply, 1 in 110V and 1 in 208V

    I have a Cisco WS-C3750X-12S swith with dual C3KX-PWR-350WAC power supplies that are both currently connected to 110V PDUs.  We are being forced to migrate over to new 208V PDUs and I would like to know if it is possible to run this switch with one power supply connected to a 110V feed and the other power supply connected to a 208V feed?
    I assume this will work as both power supplies are auto sensing and are rated for any input between 110V - 240V.  Would there be any potential issues with this configuration?
    This will only be needed for one week while the second 208V PDU is connected.  I will need to migrate one PS to 208V, wait for the second PDU to be installed in my rack, and then move the second PS to 208V.
    I was hoping to be able to migrate without having to reboot the switch as this would require a maintenance window and downtime for an important connection.
    Thank you.

    Hello,
    That should be fine, I've seen customers actually run this in production for quite some time.  You should be able to migrate this without downtime as long as you are not running a large number of POE devices that are reliant on XX amount of power at one time.
    HTH
    luke

  • Mac Pro power supply. Is it possible to change from 110V to 240v

    I recently found out that I'll be relocating from New York, USA to London, UK. Does anyone know if it's possible change the input voltage of a mac pro from the 110 volts used in the US to the 240 volts used in the United Kingdom? or should I just rely on a step up/down voltage converter?

    Hi and welcome to Discussions,
    taken from the MacPro tech specs http://support.apple.com/kb/SP11
    *Electrical and environmental requirements*
    ENERGY STAR configurations available
    Line voltage: 100-120V AC or 200-240V AC (wide-range power supply input voltage)
    Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz single phase
    Current: Maximum of 12A (low-voltage range) or 6A (high-voltage range)
    Operating temperature: 50° to 95° F (10° to 35° C)
    Storage temperature: -40° to 116° F (-40° to 47° C)
    Relative humidity: 5% to 95% noncondensing
    Maximum altitude: 10,000 feet
    So no converter needed, just a different power-plug connector.
    And a hearty welcome to the 'old-world'
    Stefan

  • UPS Causing Disturbance to Mac Pro Power Supply

    I have been doing a lot of work on upgrading two Mac Pro's over the last few days. I have one attached to an APC UPS 1300VA 780W rated. Normally this Mac Pro is under my desk, so I do not here it. During the process of one of the upgrades I had the Mac Pro sitting right in front of me on my desk. As soon as I powered it up, I could hear this disturbing "hum" or "buzz" coming from the power supply of the Mac Pro. However the Mac Pro seemed to operate fine.
    I decided to unplug the Mac Pro from the APC UPS and into a regular Tripp-Lite wall surege protector with no UPS. The noise was significantly reduced. Therefore my question to you is:
    1. Do you think the fact that the APC is creating the problem or introducing a different signal (maybe not true Sine Wave) than what is required by the Mac Pro?
    2. For those that have a newer Nehalem Mac Pro and they have access to the back, how would you rate the "hum"? Is it what you would expect? Now that I have it off the APC UPS, it seems more normal (it is audible, but only with my ear close to it).
    3. How well are the power supply units in the Mac Pro designed? Enough to handle immediate loss of power? What about cleaning the power coming in? Sometime the voltage drop across my AC outlet is 110V to 120 V.
    Mike

    RS? XS? something other than those? The linked discussion OP had an XS and went to SMART unit. Before I bought CyberPower to replace one of my two 1500VAs (one XS and other RS) I decided to ditch APC this go around. And, glad I did. Quiet, green, stand-by mode.
    The 2008 had bad inrush current, and ever since the G5 Quad with 1kw PSU people have been looking for the best UPS.
    One article talked about PSU efficiency, and apparantly Apple's didn't match the 85+.

  • Power Supply Replacement!

    Good Day!
    I bought HP LASERJET PRO 100 COLOR MFP M175 from a Future Shop store in Canada two years ago. A few months ago I left Canada and headed to my home country, with no hope of returning back again to Canada, so I decided to ship the printer with me to use it at home. Unfortunately, unaware of the voltage difference between 110v, North American voltage standard, and the 220v voltage standard in my home country, I plugged the printer cord into the wall and .. boom (you know what happened). A local accredited service center found the power supply out of order, and suggested replacement.
    My question is: How can I find HP-certified service center in Montreal, Canada and how much it costs to replace the power supply (warranty is expired)?!
    Regards,
    Jeffery
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    @7kem, welcome back to the forums
    I would suggest calling HP directly to inquire about ordering a replacement power supply for your printer.
    HP's contact info:
    If you are calling within North America, the number is 1-800-474-6836 and if you are calling outside of the US/Canada,: click here.
    Best wishes
    R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
    Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say
    “Thanks” for helping!
    Click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution!

  • Power supply spark...fried mobo?

    Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
    So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
    His specs are:
    Athlon 64 3200
    MSI K8N Platinum
    X-Infinity case
    512 Geil Ram
    Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
    120 GB Hard drive
    Thanks

    Gildan,
    You asked the following:
    btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with  voltage multimeter (VMM).
    Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
    VMM USAGE INFORMATION
    Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
    Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
    If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
    CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
    If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
    I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
    CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
    Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
    Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
    (Put red lead sensor on green dot)
    Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
    Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
    Have fun,

  • Power Supply... I'm an idiot! Help!

    After going through the hassle of having my Ideacenter K220 shipped from the US, I made an elementary error and plugged it in to the 220V while set on 110V. I double checked the box to make sure the supply would accept the 220V, I just neglected to flip the manual switch. Mea Culpa. There was a loud pop from the pack of the tower and the apartment's power died.
    A quick review of online troubleshooting guides quickly let me know the error. Now I know the power supply is dead, but I have two questions:
    First, is there any chance of further damage to the system from this error? Most advice I saw said that there would have to be a flaw with the PSU or a lightning strike, and that the pop I heard was a part breaking which also sheltered the rest of the system.
    Second, is it possible to now switch to 220V and use the PSU? I luckily have a Lenovo shop down the street, and can get a new PSU easily, but I was curious if the unit is completely ruined, or if the 220V and 110V circuits might be separate, and while I ruined the 110 the 220 might still work.
    Thanks!

    Connect the iPod to the computer. When it appears in iTunes, if using iTunes 7, select the iPod and then click the Music tab. If using iTunes 6 or earlier, go to edit-->preferences and select the iPod tab, then the music tab.
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  • Power supply?  220V ok?

    i just purchased the airport extreme and i notice all the labeling and specifications are conspicously absenet any information on power supply. Is is 110V only? or will this work in 220V? Do i need a step down transformer?

    i UTFSE

  • 6509 Power Supply Output Failure

    I have a 6509 chassis w/1 Sup720 and dual 3000W power supplies. When I power it on it runs for about 3-5 minutes and the power supplies shutdown. The red "Output Failure" light comes on. They are connected to 110V/20Amp circuits. These are the same circuits that were used with a previous set of power supplies (lower wattage). I removed everything from the chassis except for the fan tray and the sup module to reduce the power demand. Same result. Thoughts?

    Hi
    Have u tried running the box with single power supply instead of both supplies ??
    Also are u getting the LED status on both the power supply unit ??
    You can also use show environment power,show environment,show power commands to check out the power supply status.
    for more info on power supply management with 6500 do check this link out..
    http://cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/switches/ps700/products_tech_note09186a008015bfa8.shtml
    regds

  • Power supply for Nexus gear

    I need to migrate devices off of 110v and move them over to 208v. I was wondering if there would be any risk moving one side to 208v while the other is still connected to 110v on the Nexus 7 and 5K switches, or would it be best to take down the device all together then make the change?

    For the DMP-4400G:
    Part# is DMP-4400-ACC-KIT= 
             (Accessory Kit)
    For the DMP-4305G:
    Part# is DMS-DMP-4300G-KIT
    NOTE: The ACCESSORY KIT does come with the Power supply
    for the DMP.  However, the power cable is a separate
    configuration item that needs to be ordered separately.
    I hope this helps!
    T.

  • Power Supply Requirements

    Hi all, any power experts out there?
    A 6500 3000W power supply states a certain input and amp requirement, for example 110 Volts 16 Amps.
    Does the power supply allways draw 16 Amps from the circuit or does this fluctuate dependant on the contents of the chassis?
    Thanks if you know
    Dave

    It will depend on your cards. I can't find the link at the moment but each card tells how much power it needs.
    The cards that provide power over ethernet are the ones that tend to use the most power.
    You never want your power supply to be running near it maximum during normall operation. The cards take much more power at system boot.
    In your example 16 amps at 110v is not 3000 watts it is more like 1700. It will be about 28 amps at 110 or 15 at 220. Both these will require a dedicated circuit be installed.

  • I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug.  Cold now.  Could it just be the power supply?  Can I replace that myself?

    This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box. 
    I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
    I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica.  Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house.  I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip.  There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
    When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
    First questions:  Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
    Next question:  Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service?  How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
    Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
    If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder.  I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook.  My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed.  I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    Thanks for any help you can give.

    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
    http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

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