Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
His specs are:
Athlon 64 3200
MSI K8N Platinum
X-Infinity case
512 Geil Ram
Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
120 GB Hard drive
Thanks

Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with  voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
Have fun,

Similar Messages

  • I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug.  Cold now.  Could it just be the power supply?  Can I replace that myself?

    This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box. 
    I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
    I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica.  Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house.  I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip.  There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
    When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
    First questions:  Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
    Next question:  Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service?  How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
    Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
    If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder.  I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook.  My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed.  I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    Thanks for any help you can give.

    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
    http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

  • Is it the power supply... or the motherboard?

    Lets start of with specs...
        K7T266 Pro2 Mainboard
        AMD Athlon XP 1700+
        nVidia GeForce 3 Ti 500
        Creative Labs Audigy MP3
        Western Digital 80 GB Hard Drive (7200RPM)
        IBM 40 GB Hard Drive (7200RPM)
    Mmkay now... I just installed some nifty lights and a window on my case, I don't think that is the problem though. Whenever I go to putting in the 20 pin ATX power supply thingee, nothing happens to the mainboard, nothing lights up... sometimes when I put in the cable different ways, or with my hand further away from the connecter, the lights get a faint glow, the fans turn on, but the hard drives don't. This has happened 3 times to me, and I don't know what the problem is.... the first time it happened I thought my power supply was fried so I ran out and bought a PSU tester, all was fine so I knew it had to be the mainboard. It wasnt. Some of the little doodahs inside the connecter from the power supply werent pushed in (or is it out?) far enough, aka some wires were just slipping out from the connector. The second time, I went to take apart the computer to dust it and the same thing happened.
    This time, is the first time I had the lights and the window on the case, so when I plug in the PSU tester to the power supply, everything lights up and turns on (except the mainboard which isnt plugged in). So then I plug it into the mainboard's connecter, it doesnt turn on. I have been fiddling with it for 20 hours and even used a dremel to shave off some of the plastic on the PSU's connecter, so the wires in the mainboard would hit the ones on the connecter. They didn't.
    Now I am asking you, if you can understand what I just said ( :D ), what is wrong with my computer.
    I'll take some pictures and show you what is happening...

    I do not think it is the connector to the MB, the PSU or the Mobo. I think you somewhere have a short-circuit. It might be that it is in a place so that it only occurs when you have "fiddled" with the innards of your case.
    Try and search for anything that might be causing a short circuit.
    Remember that some lights (dont know correct english word for the type here) might in some situation be considered a short circuit (and might cause your PSU not to power up).

  • Thermotec Power supply Recommended?

    I have been advised by other members to change my 300 Q Tec power supply before the MoBo packs up. I have found  a Thermotec 420W supply for $100 on the local market. (Stuff is expensive here). Has anyone ever heard of Thermotec and can anyone recomend them as being compatible with this P4 motherboard. Also with my setup I think 420W might still be low.
    I would appreciate some advice please.
    Regards Chris

    Hi Chris,
    How done a search........ no info on this brand, not even any selling on Ebay!!!!
    Also had a look for component shops in Cyprus..........guess what???? All info about holidays etc......
    You could try contacting a BRAND name PSU direct and explain.....that you not able to find a supplier in Cyprus, please could they advise on where to buy in Cyprus......... (Antec, Enermax or Hiper...... I have tested these are good quality and spex..... I don't advise, if I have not tried.)
    Sorry I can not be of more help too you...
    Del

  • What are the dimensions and specs of the 3000 Series H210 Power Supply? Can I upgrade it?

    Power Supply Specs

    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
    http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

  • MSI KT6 Delta MOBO - recommended power supply

    My power supply exploded , I think, and I cannot power up the system.  Hopefully this has not affected the rest of the system: chip, graphcard etc.
    What voltage power supply should I have for this particular motherboard?
    cheers

    I'm sorry some of you are having problems with cheap power supplies.  That is beside the point, however.  I can only state what I know from experience, as I have never taken any classes in switching supply design.  I have absolutely zero (0) problems with cheap supplies.  And any motherboard that is so power hungry that it can itself overdraw a power supply is very poor design.  As I said, I ran my HP Pavilion xt983 with a 200-watt cheap-o PSU with all that stuff in my previous post for over 4 years with no problems (and the PSU still works even after the mobo died from bad capacitors).  I am using it to rebuild the exact same (minus HP mobo) system when the replacement mobo (crappy Chaintech) comes back this week from being repaired under warranty.
    I never said wattage was the only metric - it's just a guide, as no manufacturer I know of specifies exactly how much and what type of current anything they build uses in the computer world (nor would I trust the spec if they did) - it changes under load.  Most people use max figures to decide how much current they need.  I just don't want people thinking they need an expensive PSU to run their good to mediocre PC.  I don't use junk and my PCs last for years on end (actually never had one I built die for any reason, knock on wood).  You do not need a high-wattage or even big namebrand PSU at all, unless you are building a very high-end PC (with light cathodes, water cooling, light kits, multiple every kind of drives, etc. - meaning you plan to abuse the system).  The run-of-the-mill PC needs no more than a cheap (non-junky) PSU that can provide at least 17 amps on the 12V rail.  That's what I use and that's what I recommend.  Wattage should be at 300+ watts to "allow for expansion".  Use the calculator.  See what all you have to add to get up anywhere near 430 Watts.  It can be done, but I would never tax a system that way.  The bottom line is watts are only a limiting factor, not a design factor.  If you add up all the rails on a typical 430-Watt PSU, it is way over 430 watts.  However, if you use all the 12V amps it can turn out and still stay near 12 volts, most of the 5V amps, and most of the 3.3V amps by overloading the system with doodads and whatnots, the 430W limit will matter.  As long as you build what I consider a normal system, you'll never use 430 Watts.  All decent PSUs can supply enough 3.3V and 5V current (should be around 30-40+ amps each), but many of them are deficient on the 12V rail.  Looking for a PSU that can churn out 17+ amps on the 12V rail usually means it can handle about any normal load (meaning single processor, mobo, a HDD or two, a FDD, a few sticks of RAM, and  DR/DVD burner or two, and a few expansion cards with no strange mods like lights and 100 fans, water cooling, etc.) on all rails.
    So, to recap:  For everyday computing, watts are only a limiting factor, so don't get less than 300 in case you really want that power hungry device of the future or want to build a top-end system now.  Current is critical, so don't get anything that's puny on any rail (3.3+5V = ~30-40+ amps each and 12V = 17+ amps).  Ignore all the "this power supply rocks" junk you'll see in bulletin boards and on Newegg (and other retailers) and look at the specs yourself.  Namebrand means as much as you think it does - some have a good rep, some have a bad rep, some have no rep.  

  • Up for the Challenge? A Real Mystery (Fried Power Supply?)

    I didn't know if this is the appropriate place to post this, but here goes.
    I have a file server at home that runs Arch/KDE. It used to be a desktop/gaming machine, but I don't really play games on my computer anymore so I re-purposed it as a file server (SSH, Unison). It has a Geforce 9800GT video card and a 610watt continuous power supply. (No onboard video, requires a video card to function).
    Yesterday I helped a client with his PC. I was trying to figure out if his issue was his video card or his motherboard, so I shut down the server, unplugged it, and removed the video card and put it in his PC to test (since my video card is known-good). After testing, I put it back in my server, connected the power cable to the video card, secured it with a screw, and continued working on my server.
    About a half hour later, I noticed a really foul stench coming from my PC. I checked all the temps (CPU, video card, etc) and all were in range. I even tried a video card from a different PC and it still stunk. I traced the smell to my power supply, which stunk really bad. (Smells like a burned up motor). The Fan in the power supply turns just fine but it stinks! I unplugged it and stopped using it.
    The server works absolutely fine (runs good, boots up fine, graphics works great, everything works) but it smells so bad you can smell it quite some distance from the tower so I'm not comfortable leaving it on.
    Here's the mystery:
    Is it possible that it's all just a coincidence, that the power supply decided to die coincidentally after testing the video card in another PC, or could testing the video card in a different PC have caused the power supply to burn up? The problem is definitely the power supply, but what I'm wrestling with is the fact that the server has been on for probably several weeks straight with no issue, and it decides to quit immediately after testing the video card in another PC. I know the coincidence is possible but it seems like a stretch.

    spctrl wrote:
    It is probably rather simple.. I've had the same general thing happen many times. When you turn on your machine the hardware demands a lot more power compared to when it is just running. Disks and fans need to spin up and so forth. So this PSU might have been fine if you had just kept it powered on, it would never have happened. Having said that it's bad that such a powerful unit dies, but I've come to accept that most power supplies are garbage when it comes to reliability.. Doesn't matter if you spend extra $$$ on a "good" brand or if you stick to cheaper ones - they just suck in general..
    If I had the money I'd buy a UPS to remove power surges and such, but until then I will have to buy a new PSU every second year I guess.
    That makes sense. I emailed the company to get an RMA yesterday, and have not heard back yet. I don't have the money to buy a new one so it really depends on them replacing it under the warranty. I'm sure I'll be without the server up to a month until it's fixed.

  • J205 9686- A12 MoBo, Power Supply ??

    Greetings All,
       I need to know if someone has a definite answer as to the system board maker and a model number of the above referenced system. Also the PSU specs. I've noticed different wattages on other sites describing the power supply . I plan on purchasing this for my son and I see upgrade potential, i.e. CPU (X2) and a discreet video card if the PSU can be changed out. Any assistance greatly appreciated.
    Thank you in advance,
    Donald
    ThinkPads:
    T23 2647 PIII-M 1.0GHz, 14.1 XGA, OS/2 Warp Version 4, WinXP SP3
    T43p 2668 2.26PentM, 2GB, 15in 1600x1200, 128MB ATI FireGL
    V3200, XP SP3 T61p 6458 Core2 Duo 2.4GHz, 15.4 nVidia Quadro 570M, Win7 Ultimate SP1

    You could have ran that card on the stock PSU and it would have ran just fine provided you havent maxed out your PCI Card slots and only have one optical and 1 hard drive installed.
    Have you tried updating your game with patches? Changed vistas power scheme from balanced to high performance?
    Proud supporter of the Toronto Maple Leafs Hockey Club

  • Power Supply Fried?

    I've had some power surges lately and now, my G4 FW800 won't turn on. The power button lights when pushed, but that is all.
    I've reset the PMU, tried a different outlet and switched RAM in and out.
    I fear the power supply is dead and, I hope not, perhaps the motherboard. Is there any way to determine this?
    I think a power surge might be to blame, although the computer was connected to a surge protector and the computer was exhibiting some strange behavior the past couple of weeks (spinning balls, slow startup.)
    I'm out of Apple Care warranty and would prefer not to have to lug the thing in some place...
    Any suggestions?
    - Nolan

    Have checked or replaced the internal battery?
    When mine went, I had no response from my Mac at all; just a light on my power button; absolutely no boot at all.
    Check out things in Texas Mac Man's tutorial on the subject. His tutorial is a little dated (don't believe it even mentions G5's) but the info in it, except SMU not being included, still applies.PRAM and PMU info is in there too.
    Cheers!
    DALE

  • Power Supply Cooling Question

    Well, I've been up and running now for the last week or so with no major issues.
    I'd like to thank all of you that answered my previous questions during my search for parts and helping me put a good plan in place so that the building of this system was painless.
    I have a question though that kind of concerns me.
    I noticed one day that what should be an exhaust from the power supply is not an exhaust at all.  The air flow is actually into the power supply.  I thought this was very unusal.  Years ago I actually did have a power supply that had a fan mounted backwards, but that was some cheap case/ps combo in the P2 days.  
    My power supply in this system is an Enermax EG465P-VE.  I said to myself "no way could it be mounted backwards".  After checking things out very closely I found that when I removed the side case cover, the power supply started exhausting in the right direction.  Put the case cover back on and the air flow went into the power supply again.  Ifinally came to the conclusion that the 120mm fan in the back of the case about 2-3 inches below the power supply was actual exhausting so much air out the case that this 120mm fan was actually drawing air against the power supply's fans and causing a slightly negative flow of air (in the wrong direction) through the power supply.  I hope I have clearly described the situation.  
    What concerns me is that the negative flow results in very little air flowing within the power supply, which could  potentially result in the power supply overheating and failing resulting in a MoBo and processor frying.
    To clarify again, the power supply is trying to push air out, but the 120mm fan is slightly stronger and is more than neutrallizing any flow through the power supply.  
    Just a little more info... I do have one 80mm fan in the front of the case sucking air into the case, blowing over the hard drive.
    There is another spot for a second 80mm fan in the front, but since I'm not over-clocking and really not producing a lot of heat I didn't think I needed two fans in front.
    The only other solution that I can think of is to somehow rig up a verister or sensor on the 120mm fan, but to cover all temperture combinations could result in something very complicated for something that shouldn't be that complicated.
    Maybe someone has noticed the same problem and has a solution.
    Thanks.
    //PantherFan

    When you see the specs on a cooling fan it says so many CFM. But really what it should be saying is how many CFM at a given speed and at a given pressure ratio (exit to inlet pressure ratio). For a given speed the relationship between flow rate and pressure ratio is on a negative slope. That is if you reduce pressure ratio, flow rate goes up and vice versa.
    Using your example suppose I put in two intake fans that on spec each draws 10 CFM and one exhaust fan that does 15 CFM and lets assume that the case is so sealed that air can only enter and leave the case via the intake and exhaust holes. When you turn this system on both intake fans try to pressurise the case but as the case pressure goes up, so does the pressure ratio acrsss the fans. Recall the slope relationship. What happens is that the flow rate drops across the two intake fans. Similarly as the pressure inside the case goes up, it become a lot easier for the exhaust fan to do its job because its pressure ratio is dropping. So what does really happen in this situation? Well the overall system reaches an equilibrium condition where the two fans deliver just enough air that the exhaust fan takes out. You can also consider extreme cases where you have massive intake fans and a weak exhaust fan. In this extreme case you'd be better off by removing the weak exhaust fan because the pressure across it becomes so low that you would not need it. You can take the argument around and make the case for a powerful exhaust fan and obviate the need for an intake fan.
    Then why do we need so many fans if all we need is one powerful exhust or intake fan? This happens because as air enters the case, it follows its least resistance path inside the case. This implies that you may end up with "dead air" areas in some regions of the case which won't be good for heat duild up. Now this does not mean that by a careful rearrangement of the components you would not be able to come up with a configuration that only uses one fan. To that you'd need to use computational flow techniques and mathematically model each component in terms of blockage and the amount of heat being put out. This is quite expensive to do so but this is how its done for the high power computers.

  • Power supply 845gmax chipset

    I am looking at a computer for a friend I think he fried his power supply because it wont even spin the fan when trying to power up. The problem is I have never worked with a motherboard that has a 12v plug just for the processor. I need good advice on where to get a power supply that supports this. And also is there a way to use an atx power supply that doesnt have this connector just to test to see that the mobo is alright?

    All current decent PSUs have the 12v ATX plug.
    Getting a decent PSU with 200w combined on 3.3+5v and 350 or more total is a good idea.
    The board might post with just the 20 pin ATX plug but it is not a real test since if it won't post you won't really be sure why.

  • Power supply & no post for k7t pro ver5

     ?( how important is the power supply?  Right now I got an ATX 300W from Ehance, the specs are
     Voltage       Current
     3.3V            20A
     5V               26A
     12V             13A
     -12V            0.8A
     -5V              0.5A
     5Vsb            2.0A
    Combined Load 175W.
    I got a new XP1600+, an old Matrox G400, using only one 128MB RAM.
    It doesnot post, DLED shows RED-GREEN-RED-GREEN.
    COULD it possible be the power supply?
    Thanks anyone who helps.

    well the Xp1600+ uses more power then the Duron, but it should still be sufficient to run the system or atleast post. And then again people have, before, recieved mobo's back from RMA with the same problems(or others) when they got them back again. But if the D-leds say it's an proccesor problem, then the only way to find out i it REALLY is the proccesor is to test the proccesor in another system. Hav u still got the Duron 1,2? And if so, does it work(not fried or anything else). U might wanna test the board with it if it works.

  • Power supply dead? Can I get at the Hard drive?

    I recently had a storm which blew one of my external firewire drives (it goes on but won't mount) and when I tried using my older G4 (Quicksilver, with OS10.3.9, and Classic) to boot up in OS9 and try my Norton Utilities, the G4 froze. It did it several times. I eventually pulled the power cord. When I plugged it back it, there was a spark (at the plug in point on the G4, not the wall outlet. Since then, it won't power up.
    I tried booting it up in firewire disk mode and using my Intel MacPro, but no dice.
    I did a search and have seen discussion on what sounds like my same problem. I hold the power button and the light goes on, but goes right off as soon as I let go.
    I tried pressing the PMU; I saw a lot of discussion about the CUDA button but it seems these are one and the same thing. I removed the small battery and tried to get a replacement but have not succeeded as yet. Though I don't think that's the problem. It might be the power supply.
    Anyway, here's my question: can I use the power supply and/or battery from an even older Mac, a PPC 8600?
    And, whether or not that works, can I yank the hard drive from my G4, along with a second internal drive I put in (slave) in order to get data of it? (I'll give up trying to fix the G$ itself if I can just get my files off it.
    *While I'm at it, can I take apart the external firewire drive that won't mount, and get at the files on that in some way. I tried Data Rescue ll but the drive still would not mount so that was useless.
    Any help on any of these will be greatly appreciated. (Yes, I do have a nice big powerful UPS but the G4 and the external were no plugged in to it).
    Thanks
    noodle--head grrum...PY

    Hi-
    To recover your hard drives and data (including the external) get yourself a housing, and insert a drive, and move data to a different computer.
    You'll want a firewire external housing with the Oxford chipset. I can recommend any of the FW or FW combo housings by OWC on the following page:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/add-ons-and-hubs/enclosure-kits
    You will need a QS power supply-others won't work.
    If you end up wanting a power supply for the QS, check eBay, or the following:
    http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART
    http://hardcoremac.stores.yahoo.net/pog4quposu34.html
    As for the battery, as long as it is the same 3.6v and form factor, any will do:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
    The Radio Shack P/N is 23-026.
    G4AGP(450)Sawtooth, 2ghz PowerLogix, 2gbRAM, 300gbSATA+160gbATA, ATI Radeon 9800   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   Pioneer DVR-109, ExtHD 160gb x2, 23"Cinema Display, Ratoc USB2.0, Nikon Coolscan

  • Power supply vs. logic board?  turns off in sleep mode.

    My imac g5 (2004 - 1st generation?) is either turning completely off or going into some un-wake-up-able mode after it's put to sleep. (I have to switch off/on the power strip and turn the computer on all over again.) And sometimes if it's sleeping (power light pulsing on front) it may or may not wake from sleep by pushing the power button. Often touching a key in that circumstance will cause it to crash, so I've quit using that altogether as a method of waking it up. I've reset the SMU a number of times throughout the past few months and it has not cleared up this problem.
    Last night after I put it to sleep it switched in to the un-wake-up-able mode. I could still hear something running (not a fan, just an electrical hum) where it seems like it's crashed and can't shut itself off. I had to turn off the power and try to turn the computer back on. It wouldn't respond the first couple times. Then the power light glowed for a while but it still didn't turn on completely. After a few more minutes I tried again. Maybe I held the power button for too long, but I heard a long single beep, the fans whirred, and then everything started up as usual.
    I've read a number of threads seemingly related to these issues, but am now not clear about whether this is a power supply issue or a logic board issue. I have yet to open the back and check for bulging capacitors. Just thought I'd ask here first.

    I am having a very close issue too (posted also in a more recent thread about power button not functioning). My old iMac G5 20 inches got a power supply that went bad two years ago. I had it replaced and all went fine until two weeks ago.
    My wife was using it, while I was away: machine shut down with a 'pop!' sound.
    She tried to start it up again, but after pressing the button a couple of times - the last one longer - she had a long strong peep. The machine went on for a while and then off again. Scared, she left it off.
    After checking, no reported issue seems to fit to the problems shown: power supply is working; logic board too. The machine is working fine, but on sleep, it dies out. While doing tasks, at undetermined times, it shuts down with a 'pop!'. Sometimes you can restart it immediately. Sometimes you can't and have to wait one or more hours. No evidently bad caps on board, led check returns 1 (no 2 flashing or attempting to turn on) with dead computer, otherwise all working fine. Hardware test also passed. Console messages have nothing relevant or clearly understandable to offer.
    Still can't figure out a solution. Many user are pretty fast in suggesting to bringing the machine to Apple. Unfortunately not all around the world we have/need cars. And getting the 20 kg of iMac by feet/metro to the shop it ain't such a nice walk. When I fried the power supply, there was no sufficiently large box on sale to pack the computer and have it send to the shop. I had to wait for the technician - on a convenient day - do drop by and take it (and he knew he was going to repair it)!
    Will post, if I have further developments.

  • IMac G5 20" power supply problem

    The power supply on my 20" G5 recently fried. Somehow I had the activity monitor showing that the "FaxJobMgr" was using about 70% of my cpu. I had had that problem before and the computer was very warm. I quit that process but shortly after that there was an acrid smell that I ultimately found was coming from the power supply. When I re-started everything came up to the desktop but then it shut down just as if the plug were pulled. I see that there were many issues with the power supply on this first generation G5. I took it to the Apple Store and they say it is the power supply AND there appears to also be damage to the logic board. $734. I'm wondering if maybe its only the power supply and they are just being cautious that there might be damage to the logic board so just replace it or buy a new computer. I thought I might try to replace the power supply only, but then that seems to be about a $120 that might be gone. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Generally speaking, the defects which affect a logic board and power supply in that family of products are similar, but there typically exists no causal link between them. It is possible to have a logic board affected by the defective electrolytic capacitor issue, a defective power supply, or both.
    You can readily determine if the logic board is defective by examining the clusters of capacitors on the logic board for bloating, distended tops or leakage. If they exhibit such symptoms, your logic board can be repaired for $ 189.00 by contacting this company.
    You may also need to replace the power supply, thought that determination is best made once the logic board as been verified as good or bad, and replaced, if you elect to do so. Power supplies for this product family generally cost roughly $ 139.00, and are user replaceable. Replacing the supply in a unit which exhibits the defective capacitor issue will not correct the logic board related problem, and may—under relatively rare circumstances—cause the eventual failure of the replacement supply.
    *I may receive compensation as a result of parts or services being ordered by users specified at the link shown in this message.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Use of boolean variables in BPEL switch statements

    I have a workflow with a single boolean input parameter: <element name="input" type="boolean"/> I wish to use a switch statement within the workflow, based on the value of that boolean parameter. When I use the following XPath expression: bpws:getVar

  • Illustrator and Photoshop Quit together?

    I have Illustrator CS2 and Photoshop CS2. If I have one of the programs open, then try to open the other, the first program quits. i.e. I can't have both of these programs open at the same time. I have a Mac Pro which is a newer computer than my Appl

  • New BB Curve connected to broadband automatica​lly!!

    Testing the new BB 9300 I placed my sim card into the phone. To my surprise my call history appeared on my new phone...to my even bigger surprise when I got home it connected to my home WIFI automatically even though it is Password protected. Can any

  • Which is better and why? the asus uf0f or the toshiba l505d=gs6000

    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=cat13504&type=page&pageIdentity=searchDriven&useProductSt...

  • Spreadsheet download problem

    Hi, This is my problem: I have an ABAP report that picks up an Excel file from the host and update its contents based upon some dictionary tables on the Application Server. To do that, it opens the spreadsheet with OLE2OBJECT methods, call some of th