Is WRT1900AC power supply 110v only?

For those who have this does it say "110v" or "110-240v" on the power brick?
Cheers
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It is a standard 100-240V switching power supply.
I can't think of the last time I saw one that didn't support all AC voltages.
However, what is really, really stupid, bordering on asinine, is the length of the removable power cable from the supply to the wall socket. It's less than 21 inches (~52cm). Seriously, it's completely useless. I had to use a power cable from something else I had laying around so it would, combined with the permanently attached cable that plugs into the router, reach to the top of the bookshelf that I have the router on (for the best wireless range) from the wall socket.
The power cable barely reaches to the ground from the wall socket, it's that short.

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Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

HP Power supply PPP012H-S / 384020-002 compatibility with Pavilion DV5000 (DV5196EA) notebook?

I have a Pavilion DV5000 (specifically, DV5196EA) notebook where I need to replace its original power supply.
I also have an HP power supply from some other notebook (I don't recall what kind) which shows the same output specifications (19V, slightly higher wattage than the original), but it has the wrong physical plug on the end.
The original power supply has a tip similar to this:
The other power supply that I have, from some other notebook, has a larger tip which looks like this:
(Apparent sizes are incorrect in the in-line image uploads above -- the actual tip on the PPP012H-S power supply is about twice as wide as the tip on the original power supply of my DV5000 series notebook).
I tested both power supplies using a multi-meter, and confirmed that the power output of both is 19VDC.
I clipped off the current large barrel end from the PPP012H-S power supply and stripped the wires, intending to solder on a common replacement tip which matches that of the original power supply, but I found a surprise when I stripped the wires:
There are three conductors inside the sheath of the PPP012H-S power supply. An outer heavy braided shell just inside the outermost rubber-plastic insulating coating, inside which is another smaller gauge rubber-plastic insulating coating, with innermost two more normal insulated stranded wires - one in white and the other in blue.
I had assumed that the outer braided shell was either ground or EM shielding, but in fact it's a conductor. Using the multi-meter I found a 19VDC differential between that outer braided shell and EITHER the inner white or the inner blue wire.
And one more weird thing. Switching the multi-meter now to resistance mode, I had expected (given the voltage detection above) that the large thin barrel of the PPP012H-S adapter's tip would share one electric potential both outside and inside the barrel, with the very find centre pin being the other pole ... but no. There are apparently three conductive surfaces; the outside of the barrel, the inside of the barrel, and the centre pin, none of which are connected to each other.
Not wanting to guess that the power supply might like the idea of shorting the white and blue leads together, and observing (I think?!) that the tip of the original power supply has only two conductive surfaces, and therefore guessing that even if the PPP012H-S' intended notebook might care about whether it was being fed from white or blue the DV5000 would not care, I insulated off the white lead and soldered the outer braided shell and the blue lead to the new tip. Multi-meter again confirms a steady 19VDC in the correct polarity.
But when plugged in to the DV5196EA notebook, the notebook does not detect any power being supplied.
Crap.
Is there some kind of electronics smarts in the PPP012H-S power supply which makes it detect and refuse to supply power to the DV5196EA notebook? Or some not-quite-so-smarts but which still really wanted me to use the white lead instead of the blue lead? .. or is even the simpler tip on the original adapter (which I believe has only two conductive surfaces) actually a little less simple than I think and it does have three surfaces and I do need to attach all three of the conductors from the PPP012H-S to (Something, where?) on the replacement tip?
Yes, a bit of work to go through to avoid spending $50 on a new power supply, but I've got the parts and I thought I had the smarts and I enjoy the challenge (up to a point!)
Thanks for your help!
-Jay

can anyone tell me the pinout of a ppp012h-s power supply please?

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I plan on getting this computer
LINK
I feel like everything on the computer is adequate but the power supply is only 300W. I need more than this so I plan on using this power supply to upgrade it.
POWERSUPPLY
Can anyone tell me if this powersupply will fit and perform with the desktop I listed. Also if it does not, is there any suggestions as to what similar Watt power supply will work?
Thanks

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TR, see your other thread for another answer to your question:
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/psg/board/message?board.id=HardwareDPC&thread.id=9252
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HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
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Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
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3750X, Dual Power Supply, 1 in 110V and 1 in 208V

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I assume this will work as both power supplies are auto sensing and are rated for any input between 110V - 240V. Would there be any potential issues with this configuration?
This will only be needed for one week while the second 208V PDU is connected. I will need to migrate one PS to 208V, wait for the second PDU to be installed in my rack, and then move the second PS to 208V.
I was hoping to be able to migrate without having to reboot the switch as this would require a maintenance window and downtime for an important connection.
Thank you.

Hello,
That should be fine, I've seen customers actually run this in production for quite some time. You should be able to migrate this without downtime as long as you are not running a large number of POE devices that are reliant on XX amount of power at one time.
HTH
luke

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i bought my macbook pro in the US. can i use it in china? (P.S the power in the US is 110v, in China is 220v, however, the mac power supply has said: "Input: 100~240v")

The Magsafe autoswitches based on detected power. You will likely need a wall adapter to alter ther US-based 3-prong to whatever is used in China.

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Hi Everyone...
Here's my setup:
Powermac G3 B&W Rev.B
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Ram: 1GB (4x256Mb)
OS 10.4.9 (latest OS supported by Powerlogix)
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DVD-Rom: Samsung DVD-/+R
PCI 66Mhz -> Radeon 9200
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Message was edited by: pierreandre90403

Hi Grant,
I posted the following on another thread, but I haven't gotten any response.
I'm having a similar problem with a B&W 350 MHz (rev 1 I think). I get the start up tone and nothing appears on the monitor. Not sure if the machine is actually booting or not.
I am trying to repair this machine for a friend. They had been having a problem with the machine booting into a blue screen. I suspected a corrupt directory, so I ran Disk Utility (from another machine) and also Disk Warrior. Both Disk Utility's Disk Repair feature and Disk Warrior found problems. Disk Warrior was able to successfully rebuild the directory.
I had removed the hard drive from the machine and put it in an external casing in order to run Disk Repair and Disk Warrior. Upon putting the hard drive back into the B&W and booting the machine, I was able to successfully boot the machine into Tiger. I tested the machine for a few minutes and it seemed to work fine.
Next, I ran software update and installed a new version of Safari and then after the required re-boot, tried to repair disk permissions. During the repair of disk permissions, the machine froze up completely. The clock stopped ticking and there was no mouse or keyboard response. I tried using the re-boot button on the front of the machine, but the machine would not fully re-boot. I get a boot tone, but no video.
I tried re-setting the CUDA chip by pressing the re-set button on the logic board, but to no avail.
Finally, I did take the battery out and had it tested at Radio Shack. The battery is showing a good 3.6 volts.
I have a second B&W (300 MHz) that is basically doing the same thing. Do you know what could be causing the lack of video signal?
Cheers,
Thomas
PS: I tried re-setting the logic board as described in another post (unplugged machine, pressed power button, removed battery, waited 10 minutes). I have tried the CUDA reset several times, but I only press the button for a second, not 15 seconds. I have re-seated the RAM. I have removed all the RAM and tested each. Nothing seems to work.

Is WRT1900AC power supply 110v only?

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