Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard power outages, Time Machine.

Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard momentary power outages. Time Machine won't backup.
Ok here's my setup
Mac Book Pro 13" APRIL 2011 latest firmware. 8GB RAM. Surge Protected mains connection..
M-AUDIO FIREWIRE SOUNDCARD AUDIOPHILE most recent drivers and powered by the MacBooks Firewire Out using a NEET Pro Lead,
The M-Audio has 2 x Firewire Ports and I take one to a 2TB 7800rpm Iomega iMedia Drive which daisy chains to a 1TB FireWire Seagate HardDrive and yes both are Pre Powered and formatted for Time Machines exclusive use.
The M-Audio Firewire module can be pre powered but isn't for this reason, the FireWire Out from the Mac IS pre powered, and I'm using a good quality NEET lead that powers the Audiophile ok over the last few months. I have been warned by the manual if I add a power supply to a pre powered firewire chain I could damage equipment, I'm now running the the screen as low as possible and the backlit keys off to minimise power drain, I also use an Acer 24" Monitor with a NEET DV mini port to HDMI adaptor and it's been working great but this must be more power drain on the power supply, One of the USB ports goes to an Native Instruments Maschine Sampler Module, the other goes to a Pre Powered 4 Port USB Hub and that has been fine, it has 1 Axiom 25 USB Midi Keyboard, 2 Pre Powered Hard Discs 1 Portable USB Drive. Now the problems started with Time Machine it can't backup and I get Hard Disk Unsafe Disconnects and Failed Time Machine Backups and Now my Soundcard does the same in that it momentarily disconnects and reconnects in a second, in Settings under ENERGY SETTINGS I've set hard drives to Never Shut Down, and the Screen also, it's been more frequent, then a fuse blows in the Power Supply without tripping up my Surge Protector Socket pfft! just great, well it is only a 3AMP Fuse in the Plug Socket but it saved my MacBook!, ok checks Mains, yes it's old, and I've started using the Central Heating alot now and when it turns on it could be causing a power surge, same with the FridgeFreezer. Things i've tried, on the Seagate pre powered FireWire Hardisc I have switched the Firewire lead to its second FW port, I got no errors with Time Machine this time, not 100% it's done yet, Soundcard resets in Logic 9 ****, I do have 2 lower quality Firewire Leads that go from the Soundcard to the 2 harddrives will need upgrading ASAP, thats next, I recon its time to upgrade the Soundcard as well for a Focusrite or similar as all my M-Audio Soundcards would literaly loose there minds on PCs and Macs, flakey drivers would just drop out of the Audiophole Firewire Card, more than I care to mention, so if that happens it could explain why the Time Machine drive drops out also, hmmm, and there was me thinking if I used a Mac it would all be ok. wrong. Would apreciate any qualified input, thanks.

Ok some updates I see, 6 in total including a firmware and security upgrades, also two Native Instruments Updates, Reaktor and Kontakt. I will be testing, this. Before the Updates I managed to peak the CPU load in Logic 9 and was only using 14 tracks, will need to bounce the Synth Plugs and drum tracks and run all the source samples from the Local internal drive a Hitachi 5400rpm drive hmmm :/ will experiment, anyway my Iomega FW drive froze up the Iomega Mac Companion is the correct name for it 2TB 7800rpm but it met it's match or was is the processor? Still sussing it all out. Firewire leads upgrade in effect. testing.. bleep. .

Similar Messages

The output of a power supply in labview using a Magna Power LXI over RS232 to simulate a periodic voltage.

How can I toggle the output of a power supply in labview using a Magna Power LXI over RS232 to simulate a periodic voltage? Any help would be apreciated?

LXI is Ethernet communication.
Does the power supply have an RS232 port?
Are you looking for an RS232 to Ethernet (LXI) Converter
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=rs232%20to%20ethernet%20ip
But to simulate a periodic voltage you need to send the SCPI "Source" command to the power supply in a loop.
Changing the Voltage setting in periodic value.
How fast of a periodic voltage do you need?
You may be limited to how fast LabVIEW, Windows and your power supply can respond to commands.
Use VISA writes. It is the same for LXI as it is for RS232. The LabVIEW code would be the same.
After you select the corrent VISA Ref, either a com port or an IP address, LabVIEW does not care if it is LXI or RS232.
From a Magna manual I found
Command Syntax
[SOURce]:VOLTage[:LEVel][:IMMediate][:AMPLitude] <nrf+>
[SOURce]:VOLTage[:LEVel]:TRIGgered[:AMPLitude] <nrf+>
Examples
VOLT 200
VOLTAGE:LEVEL 200
VOLTAGE:LEVEL:IMMEDIATE:AMPLITUDE 2.5

Can I use my older airport express with an ext drive to backup time machine wireless, Can I use my older airport express with an ext drive to backup time machine wireless

Can I use an older (flat) Airport Express to attach an ext hard drive and backup time machine wirelessly? and how?

can I then connect a HD with itunes music and photos?
Now we are drifting from the original question.
Im alreadty using the HD attached to my Mac Pro...can I just connect it to the Extreme and access it wirelessly with any device on the wifi net?
You may get another opinion on this from another user, but I do not recommend this either, based on a number of experimens over the years with this.
Access to your data on the drive will be much slower. iTunes will tend to "lose" the library this way and you will have to re-point the iTunes application at the library on a regular basis.
Things are even worse with the iPhoto library. The experts over in the iPhoto support area strongly advise that you do not do this, since any break in communication between the iPhoto application and iPhoto library can easily corrupt the entire library. A wireless connection makes things even more dicey.
My advice......Use a drive connected to the Extreme for storage or other backup copies of data.....not for "working" files or libraries.
But, you may get some other opinions from users here.

Using a third party ext hard drive with time machine via aiport extreme

Hi all,
I have a 500GB external hard drive connected to my Airport Extreme Base Station 802.11n and so far have been unsuccessful in getting Time Machine to work with this.
I have been told this is possible, but cannot figure out how to do it.
_+*Any ideas?*+_
We have one Macbook running 802.11n and one running 802.11g that is unable to be upgraded (as Core Duo, not Core 2 Duo).
Thanks,
tkoe

tkoe wrote:
Hi all,
I have a 500GB external hard drive connected to my Airport Extreme Base Station 802.11n and so far have been unsuccessful in getting Time Machine to work with this.
I have been told this is possible, but cannot figure out how to do it.
_+*Any ideas?*+_
We have one Macbook running 802.11n and one running 802.11g that is unable to be upgraded (as Core Duo, not Core 2 Duo).
Thanks,
tkoe
TM suports WiFi backup only to TimeCapsule.
There are unauthorized hacks to force TM to use WiFi links and you can search for them in these forums. I do not recommend a hack when it comes to preserving valuable data.

Question about Ext Hard Drive with Time Machine

Hello
Here is the case
I have a macbook upgraded to leopard
Since Tiger, i use and external hard drive (maxtor 320gb) to storage all my 80 gbs of music and photos.
Now i want to use this same external device with Time Machine. but without having to delet my music.
What should i do?
Partition it?
or just opening Time Machine preferences, and selecting it as my back up drive will do?

Hello ADAMB
When i open up TM preferences, it allows me to set it as my back up drive, but i havent let it do a back up yet for the same reason that i dont want to lose any data.
In the other hand, i opened disk utility and this is the info i got
Disk Description : Maxtor 3200 Media Total Capacity : 298,1 GB (320.072.933.376 Bytes)
Connection Bus : USB Write Status : Read/Write
Connection Type : External S.M.A.R.T. Status : Not Supported
USB Serial Number : 2CAHD13Z *Partition Map Scheme : Master Boot Record*
I do have Intel macbook
Thanks for the help

Backup to Ext. Hard Drive/Time Machine - Partitions??

I have a MacBook Air that is almost full and I need to back up to an external hard drive. Mainly, I have photos and videos that are taking up the majority of space. I have a Seagate 1TB, and am ready to do this, but cannot decide how many partitions to have. I was told to have two: one for Time Machine and one as a Backup.... Is this a good suggestion? If so, how large should each partition be?
Once I get it all set up will the MacBook Air take over and regularly back up my files? Also, I was told that I could use the same external hard drive to manually back up a pc's files.....??

If you wish to have a permanent storage of the data on your computer, then you cannot use Time Machine for the backup. The question then is what is the purpose of the external drive - storage or backup. It should not be both even if you partition the drive. If the drive should fail or become corrupted and require repartitioning then you have lost both the stored files and your backup.
You should use a separate drive for each purpose. If you need storage now as well as a bootable backup, then you can clone your computer's drive to the external drive for now which will also serve as a backup of all your data:
Drive Partition and Format
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Clone using Restore Option of Disk Utility
1. Open Disk Utility in the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag
it to the Destination entry field.
5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
the Source entry field.
6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the external backup drive. Source means the internal startup drive.
You can incrementally update this clone using one of several backup utilities:
Suggested Backup Software
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Data Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. Synk Pro
6. Tri-Backup
Others may be found at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files.

WRT54GS power supply substitute?

hi, i moved recently and i lost my linksys' WRT54GS power supply somehow.
i plugged a scanners power supply i had, and it didnt blow up.
the WRT54GS power supply was 12V 0.5A according to this sites specifications, ant the one im using now is 12V 1.25A
will i toast my router if i continue using this power supply?
thanks.

What a terrible response Ridicully. No, it won't hurt your router. If the router wants a 12V DC .5A adapter and you use a 12V DC 1.25A adapter you are fine. The current rating is the capability of the adapter NOT what it will inject into the router. The router only needed a 1/2 amp of 12Volts, the printer adapter can supply 1.25 amps.. more than enough. The only thing to be carefull of here is the supply voltage.. make sure they match 12V DC to 12 DC. I once plugged a 12V AC adapter into a 12V DC device... NOW THAT WILL CAUSE bad things to happen.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power Supply Temperatures Running Hot! Mac Pro shuts down.

Hello,
First I will give machine/hardware specs of interest:
2 x 3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon (pre 2009)
8 GB 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
NVIDIA Quadro FX 5600 (running 2 displays)
Apple RAID Card/Controller
SMC Version: 1.25f4
*venting dimensions around computer: top=18", left side=3", right side=3" and back=18".
Software of interest currently running:
OS X 10.5.8
iStat Menu
SMC Fan Control
My machine has been shutting down spontaneously and I suspect either CPU or power supply overheating. In the 5 instances this has occurred, the room was very warm (AC was not on) and I was running HandBrake with CPU at full and an iStat reading of 145 F. Ambient was 77 F and I was not reading power supply temps at the time. I figured for sure this must be a CPU overheating issue. However, just a few hours ago I had another shutdown. The room was warm again but I was not running Handbrake, but StarCraft II. I have played a lot of Starcraft II with no problems until tonight.
I decided, this time, to check the temps on my power supplies. Power supply 1 = 147 F, and #2 is at 178 F. After many hours of searching forums I have concluded that these are crazy hot temps! I immediately installed SMC Fan Control to attempt to increase the fan speeds. I was successful in increasing all fans except the power supply (stuck at 599rpm). I have now turned the AC on in the house and the Ambient is down to 70, PS #1 145 and PS #2 169. All of these temps are a result of and idle machine running a browser.
The following may or may not be an issue, however, leave no stone unturned. I currently have 12 external devices running on USB. 4 WD passport drives, 1 DVD writer, 5 WD powered drives plus the keyboard and mouse. Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
In all my forum searches, I just can't seem to answer some basic questions:
1. Can an overheated power supply shut the system down?
2. What are optimal (normal) running temps for Mac Pro's? (everyone seems to have opinions, but there doesn't appear to be a technical specification anywhere).
3. I thought the fans, especially CPU fans, were supposed to kick in when the heat rises. Why are mine staying at minimal rpm's?
Finally, does it look like I need new power supplies? Fans?
This machine was put into service in March of 2008 and has done very intensive rendering for the film industry...long nights...rendering for days sometimes. It has been retired for over a year now and is used at a lesser degree.
Thanks for reading this long post! I appreciate any input you can provide!
Other iStat reading of interest:
Power Supply 1 voltage = 12.28 V
Power Supply 1 current = 26.44 A
Power Supply 1 power = 316.75 W

Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
Put your peripherals on that.
Don't share the same circuit for A/C as the Mac Pro, and put the Mac on 1300VA UPS at least.
As for all those external drives.... I'd consolidate into a good SATA case or two.
And yes in summer run with 3 of the fans up around 900 rpm.

Power Supply??? Anyone have this problem?

Hello everyone!
I have a few different things I am going to post but at the end they all go together so if you are bored read on.
I own an '07 Mac Pro 3GHz 8-Core and one day I started it up and it didn't come one. It had power but no video. I restarted it maybe 6 or so times for it to finally come on.
2 months later I start it up(yes I used it between this time) and it gets to the desktop and shuts off. I then try to start it and nada. So the next morning I try again and it chimes, gets to the gray apple screen and shuts off and has not started since.
I took it to an Apple repair shop(not Apple store but certified) and they are scratching their heads because this is usually a sure logic Board issue or Processor.
I myself had taken the time to fool with the diagnostic buttons and yes the Trickle Amber lights comes on but when I let go of he diagnostic button on the CPU1 & CPU2 Overtemp lights flashed.
So with no way to know what this means I just took a mental note about what lights did what and when.
PART 2
I had been searching the webtubes anywhere and everywhere for Apple Service Manuals but to no end. They seemingly don't exist.
Well not so fast. Not only did I find the Mac Pro Service Manual for my '07 I found the '08 and others all for free.
So with the info I thought for sure I could figure out the problems with my computer but the repair shop still had it. Turns out the repair shop was so used to the Logic/Processor thing they hadn't actually really diagnosed the LED's properly as I assisted them in doing once I read the manual.
As I read the LED meanings it became quite clear to me what the problem is but yet I couldn't understand how.
To me the Amber Trickle LED meant that the power supply was ok but this isn't the case. There is an LED I think number 6 or 7 that when the front button is pressed turns green to show the Power Supply is up to par.
Just from keeping notes in my head I remember studying the LEDs and never did a green light show ever.
Armed with this I went to the shop today where the tech downloaded the Service Manual while I was there and we went over it together at which point I said to him that there was no Green Light.
So while he boringly read through the LED explanations I stared at his certifications and his cool little collection of Sponge Bob items which I love by the way. After a boring repeat of yada yada yada we make the anticipated trip over the the hog on the counter.
Just like I thought... no green light.
Now I can't believe all this hoopla over that. Something so simple was overlooked for a week.
I look at it like this. People tell me now, oh yeah it makes sense that it would be that now that it is saying that from the diagnosis LEDs but not one person even suggested that prior.
And I went and purchased a new 2.26GHz 8-core because I couldn't wait any longer for it to be fixed and thinking it was gonna be $700-$2000.
Any thoughts???

It is very simple trust me.
I guess when the plug is in it still gets power(trickle power) enough to do little things and/or diagnose but the main power to boot up and run can still not work.
My guess is that it is made this way so they can still diagnose problems even when a power supply bites the dust so you know it is bad as well.
About the Overtemp lights here is the deal.
If you look at an '07 Mac Pro(can't speak for newer) behind the riser cards there is a row of LED's and words to explain why they are on, blink or whatever they do.
Things like TRICKLE POWER, CPU1 & CPU2 FAIL, CPU1 & CPU2 OVERTEMP, and others.
Just like the SMC button there are two other buttons on the Logic Board near these LEDs'
If you press them they diagnose the computers issues and make the lights come on depending on the issue.
BUT...
There are some of the LEDs that come on to show you power without having to press the diagnosis button. For example the LED #6 or #7(not sure) come on when the power is on, and in this case they don't, showing the Power Supply is not putting out the power. Even if it does and the power isn't sufficient this light will not turn on.
So...
When you hit the power button only the Fan and Drives spin due to the Trickle Power(from what I have read) but the Logic Board is not getting power from the Power Supply to start up as shown by the GREEN LED not lighting up to indicate the Power Supply is working.
That is a pretty good explanation as good as it can be.
I can post a photo tomorrow when I get my new computer up and running to show you the Board and you will be like Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that is simple.
As far as the fix. yes I would have just got a Power Supply but it was not know at the time. I basically figured it out myself.
I have no regrets about buying the new machine. I have clients that need their stuff done and I love to do it, plus now this will become my Maya machine until it is needed for backup or something.
NOTE: Who wouldn't still be excited to get the latest and greatest.

1st Gen iMac Power Supply Issue

I just got my iMac G5 back from Apple after having the power supply and logic board replaced for the second time in two years.
It is apparently a fairly common problem with the first generation iMac G5s. I've basically been told it's a problem with no real solution and that they'll fix it for free (for the first three years). It's great that I'm within the three years, but if it happens again after October, I'm likely going to have to foot the bill to get it repaired.
Does anyone have any more detailed info on this issue (other than Apple's Repair Extension doc)? Would turning off the computer each night prolong the life of those parts? Would turning it on/off everyday reduce the life of those parts?
Any thoughts/comments?
Thnx...CN
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.3.9)
iMac G5

Just to add to BB's comments, I doubt that leaving the computer on will have any benefit at all for you in terms of longevity. If you have problems with faulty capacitors , and the like, in fact it will probably make the issue worse rather than better (though I doubt this will be a problem for you if your logic board was replaced after about April 2005). Doing so will probably also add a little extra wear to the bearings of your HD (unless you have it set to spin down when not needed) , and will cost you a little more (but not a whole lot - though when we all leave them running the environmental costs continue to mount) in electricity over time.
You should probably also shut down every so often anyway - maybe once a week or so, to help clear some potential memory issues that can persist with some applications even under OSX, and you should certainly shut down at and start up again at any time when you notice slowdowns, program "hangs" or other problems.
Cheers
Rod

Power Supply for 20" g5 iMac

I have a first gen 20" G5 iMac, but it needs a power supply. Can I use a power supply from a first gen 17" model. I actually have one of those available. Thanks.

Hey Bennett,
Well power wise the two supplies are very similar.
The 20":
+3.3 V 4A
+5.1 V 9.8A
+12.0 V 6.5A
+24.0 V or +20.0Vs 0.4A
+5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
The 17":
+3.3 V 3.1A
+5.1 V 9.6A
+12.0 V 9.2A
+24.0 Vsb 0.33A
+5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
However in terms of an exact replacement, physically the differences between the two is the placement of the AC inlet socket. In the 20" it's near the right edge. In the 17" it's ~ 1" to the Left. So the locking tab indent and the socket are in the wrong place.
I think the pinouts are identical so you should be able to electrically test the 20" but you'll never get the back on without major mods.
I'd refer to Jim's site:
http://jimwarholic.com/2008/11/apple-imac-g5-power-supply-issues-and.php
He's very responsive and knowledgeable about these power supplies and you could ask him about the swap.
There are also ATX hacks to replace the 20" supply (there are many links and pics on Jim's site) and I've done that and have used the hacked ATX supplies to verify that I have a PSU problem. I've never gotten the sleep function to work properly tho'.
Richard
Message was edited by: spudnuty

PMG4 MDD Power Supply dead? Where can I get one?

Does anyone know of another source for the PMG4 MDD Power Supply? When I press the power button to turn it on, nothing happens. Yes, I have reset the PMU, replaced the battery, left it unplugged overnight, and still nothing at all, no lights noises or anything.
I think it's the power supply, and my Apple Authorized Service Center says they haven't been able to get a power supply for over a month now.
Is there a shortage of the Samsung Power Supplies for this?
Thanks,
Jay

Thanks for the help. After calling my Apple Authorized Service Center asking what the ETA was, they told me to call 1-800-MYAPPLE and ask about the status of the Power Supply they ordered on April 24th. I called Apple yesterday, and today I got a call that the Power Supply was being shipped out today.
Not sure where the bottleneck was (Apple, AASS, etc.) but it took over a month for one to get shipped out, when the MDD G4 that blew a PS last month had one replaced in 2 days.
I am speculating that these Power Supplies have been failing at an abnormally high rate lately, and are out of production. Of course, that is just a guess.
Hopefully someone out there benefits from my info here.
Thanks,
Jay

I have a HP Pavilion a6603w. I want to upgrade power supply to run powerful graphic card. Suggest

I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w. I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle.
I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan. Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss? I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem.
Thanks,
Lugnut

lugnut1204 wrote: I have a HP pavilion a6603w desktop model number FK555AA-ABA a6603w. I have a low to mid level graphics card, which is the most that my power supply will handle. I want to get a stronger power supply to run a high end graphics card with a self cooling fan. Can anyone suggest an excellent, reliable power supply brand and model that will fit into my desktop case with minimum fuss? I am not tech savy but I have replaced my video card and hard drives with no problem. Thanks, Lugnut
Hello lugnut1204, I checked the specifications for your system and is appears the system shipped with a 250 power supply. The dimensions for this power supply are 5 15/16 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3 3/8 inches tall. Since your system is a MicroATX version, you would be slightly limited to a power supply of the same size as the original power supply.
Here is a link to Newegg where a Corsair 600 watt power supply can be found with almost the exact same physical size as you original 250 watt version. The Corsair power supply dimensions are 5.9 inches wide, 5.5 inches long, and 3.4 inches tall.
If you get a power supply too long, it may interfer with the back of the CD\DVD drives.
You would need to locate a video card that you wanted and make sure the power supply requirements were less than the 600 watt Corsair model. Most of the mid to higher end cards require at leaset a 400 to 500 watt or greater power supply.
Please click the White Kudos star on the left, to say thanks.
Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem.

Guide to remove power supply

Hi. I have a PowerMac G4 Sawtooth and it does nothing when you press the power button. I think it is the power supply that is the problem. I have a replacement power supply, but how do i get the old one out? Is there a guide somewhere? Or could someone make one that gives me the basics to get it out?

Before you remove the power supply, you should check for "Trickle Power". Without this 5 Volt supply, your Mac has no hope of starting, and with it, your Power supply is likely working.
With the Mac nominally off, but the AC power cord plugged into the wall socket, and the main 20-pin DC power connector still attached to the motherboard, measure the voltages by inserting a meter probe into the rear of each crimped wire connection. The black probe connects to any ground wire (typically black) on the same connector. More information and the pinout diagram in the article.
58561- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White) and Power Mac G4: Power Supply Voltage Test

Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard power outages, Time Machine.

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