Guide to remove power supply

Hi. I have a PowerMac G4 Sawtooth and it does nothing when you press the power button. I think it is the power supply that is the problem. I have a replacement power supply, but how do i get the old one out? Is there a guide somewhere? Or could someone make one that gives me the basics to get it out?

Before you remove the power supply, you should check for "Trickle Power". Without this 5 Volt supply, your Mac has no hope of starting, and with it, your Power supply is likely working.
With the Mac nominally off, but the AC power cord plugged into the wall socket, and the main 20-pin DC power connector still attached to the motherboard, measure the voltages by inserting a meter probe into the rear of each crimped wire connection. The black probe connects to any ground wire (typically black) on the same connector. More information and the pinout diagram in the article.
58561- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White) and Power Mac G4: Power Supply Voltage Test

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  • Removing power supply from Dell XPS A2010

    I have been experiencing problems with my Dell XPS A2010 for a while now. Boots into Bios but will not Boot into Windows. Was told by a PC repair guy that it was the motherboard but not sure how he came to that conclusion. Ran Dell diagnostics and based on the error codes have come to the conclusion that it's the hard drive. I sell on eBay as a part time job in my spare time (am a stay at home mom) and am thinking of listing it considering I have since purchased a new PC. I was thinking of taking out the power supply and selling that separate from the system considering how much they go for but am hitting a dead end when it comes to my research on exactly how to do that and do it safely. That's how I found this forum. So, if anyone could provide any links or any knowledge, tips, etc on how to do that I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
    Best, Amy

    Here is the tear down on youtube.
    Here is the Service Manual.

  • G5 2.3ghz power supply removal? Do I need to remove Logic board 1st?

    Power supply partially expired on my 2.3GHz G5. Have found a donor. Manual says remove logic board before power supply. But you could remove power supply with board in situ on older G5s...........any ideas?

    I've heard of some trying, possibly succeeding.
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  • S5-1554 Dead - power supply?

    Computer found dead.  Tried start button, no response.  Followed hp troubleshooting guide: power supply has solid green light, and when paper clip placed across p1-17 and ground, power supply fan came on.  However, when reconnected and push start button absolutely nothing happens.  Once, all fans started to spin up for about one second, but stopped.  Troubleshooting guide says if power supply fan comes on when the p1-17 to ground connected, the power supply should be good, and should then consider motherboard, memory, other causes.  However, I'm skeptical.  My gut still says it is the power supply.   I have an older computer that died but has a good power supply that wouldn't fit, would it work to connect to see if it would power up just as a test?  Other thoughts before starting to swap out parts as diagnostic?

    Grumpy44, welcome to the forum. I agree with you that it could be the PSU.  I have heard of PSU's working using the paper clip, but still not being good enough to power the computer.  If you try to use your old PSU make certain that the ATX Power connector is correct. Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.

  • I have a 1st Gen Time Capsule 1tb. It turns on, boots up and turns green for 5-10 mins, but then turns solid orange and then blinks orange.  I have removed the hard drive and replaced the power supply . . . still the same problem.  Suggestions?

    I purchased a used 1st Gen Time Capsule with a 1 tb hard drive.
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    Thanks!!!!!!!

    A Gen3 is identical board to a Gen4 although they have some differences in firmware and wireless card was updated on every model.. but a Gen3 is substantially faster than Gen1, Gen2 which also have identical boards.
    You can with careful shopping get a Gen3 pretty cheap.
    Most use a delta power supply which I think is a lot better than the flextronics used in most Gen1/2
    You can sell back the parts to ebay.. people still would buy the power supply etc. Even just the case can be useful to a repairer.
    But if the board is gone.. it is hard to repair.. not impossible.. but hard.
    Gen 3 and Gen 4 are not without faults.
    See this page.
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/new-issue-with-a1355-gen-3-tc
    I have fixed it a different way.. by using the small converters you can buy in bulk from ebay for $1 each.. KIS3R33 .. they produce 3.3V at 2A peaking at 3A.. amazing.. I keep using them to replace onboard power converters by removing the inductor and simply power directly.. the end result has worked great. You can simply change the resistors around and get any output from 1v to 20v depending on input.
    Is it worth doing it .. no of course not.. it will waste many more hours than $50 is worth.. but it is kind of fun that you can actually make things work again.
    Here is a pic of the Gen 3 totally powered by me. All onboard power removed.
    This was to track down the fault in the Gen3.. but I am kind of pleased that it ended up neat enough and reliable enough to work for more than a year.. the Gen3 still serves as a way to get Netflix via network for a friend running 24/7.
    The units supply (from left to right)
    1v, 1.1v, 3.3v, 5v, 1.8v
    It is feed by 12v supply which is also directly connected to the hard disk.
    So it is possible to fix.. !! Only got to be a bit crazy.

  • How to remove and detailed specs of Power Supply?

    I was trying to remove the power supply you know just as curiosity and also I would like to know the tecnical specs of this PSU, Watts, maximum Amperes in 12V, if this has 8 or 6 PCIe connectors, etc.

    pullman wrote:
    Welcome to discussions.
    From http://www.apple.com/macpro/specs.html:
    # Line voltage: 100-120V AC or 200-240V AC (wide-range power supply input voltage)
    # Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz single phase
    # Current: Maximum of 12A (low-voltage range) or 6A (high-voltage range).
    Here's Apple's article on the power consumption of the early 2008 Mac Pro: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=307495.
    I don't understand what you mean by remove the power supply.
    Here's Apple's article on the PCIe on Mac Pro: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2838.
    /p
    I got more information with the "Catch Them Document" but I still don't know the specs, according to your links mac pros consume 155 W on idle and 318 W on load but what's the maximum power of the PSU.

  • My ipad2 crashes when it is removed from the power supply. It  can't be reset?

    My ipad2 crashes when it is removed from the power supply. It can't be reset? Doesn't respond when plugged into my pc?

    Hrm... that may be true and this may be a function of the phone email client that Apple just doesn't do.
    No, I can easily MANUALLY delete the messages. I would prefer if I didn't have to do it twice, tho. Once on the mail server and once on the phone.
    What I think the phone needs to do is, when it checks the POP, anything NOT there should be removed locally. I think you are correct on POP; the phone will poll the mx (mail exchanger) and the mx will pass off the messages to the phone. The phone then keeps ALL of that unitl you manually delete it.
    If, say, I remove a message from the mx, I would like the phone, when next polls, to see that that particular message isn't on the server anymore and remove it locally.
    Perhaps it's just me but if I delete the message on the mx itself, via my ISP's webmail interface, I really don't want to have to remove it again from my phone.
    thxs!
    cheers
    rOot

  • How do i remove blown power supply (g5 dual 2.7)?

    my powermac g5 (dual processor 2.7Ghz) has blown it's power supply and i'm struggling to remove it. I'm at the point where i need 'screwdriver' style allen keys to remove the water cooling system (I hope i'm right in thinking that once this is out i can somehow get the power supply out from the bottom of the case).
    with the machine lying down, looking down into the cooling system i can see 6 hex style screws (4 in corners, 2 in middle), 4 star style screws (2 at edges, 2 in the middle).
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    Thanks for the official procedure, that rivet defiinitly looks like it's meant to break as it is removed. I'll see if i can unhide my email address on my profile for this site and maybe you could email me the file?
    My machine didn't have much dust in it at all, and it never had any problems starting, suspending or resuming. It did sound like it was about to take off sometimes when i was loading the processor. I mainly do stuff in Logic and there is always moderate fan noise while i was operarting the program, and then when it came time to bounce the audio out and the processors were at 100% it made a **** of noise. Also got really hot, would heat the room on a cold day no problem. Overall though considering the heat the thing was producing i dont think the fan noise was excessive though. In fact overall i was really pleased with the machine, but after reading around on the internet it probably seems to be the worst piece of hardware that apple have ever designed.
    When i spoke to the company who i'm getting the refurbished psu from, they couldn't understand where the blue flashes could have come from. Initially i thought the light must have flashed out of the fans on the power supply but i've sinced realised the fans are on the front not the back - and the flashes definitly came from the back. They suggested maybe i had a dodgy power lead, so now im worried about the board and processors.

  • Satellite Pro S300L-105 - Whistle when power supply is removed

    I recently bought a Satellite Pro S300L-105, it works normally except that it produces a slight, pointed whistle, witch can be heard when the power supply is removed. After less than 10 minutes using, I feel pain to my ears and brain and it becomes unusable.
    I do not have any hearing problem or so. and I've never had such a problem when using any other computer.
    What is it due to, and what can the manufacturer do for me?

    Hi
    Very common problem with all sorts of electronic equipment.
    The whistle is caused by the high frequencies used by switch mode power supplies. It's a bit like a car where you have a rattle that happens only at certain speeds, and that speed creates a certain frequency that resonates with something in the car that then makes a noise. The same thing happens in the power supply.
    When you remove the power the laptop enters a different power mode and starts running things on a lower voltage to save the battery power, and the way the power supply does this is by changing the frequency the power supply runs at. This frequency is just right to cause something to start vibrating within it, and as the frequencies are very high, you get a high frequency squeal. It may be so high in frequency other people can't hear it, which can be a problem when support or the shop are checking are it if you take it back.
    Just like a car with a rattle, not every car of the same type will have the problem and the same goes for laptops. Someone may have a squeal only when on mains power for example, or only when the back light is on full or on dim, or they just don't notice it.
    The manufacturers do a lot to try and dampen down anything that might vibrate and squeal but are not always successful.
    You might find turning off power management settings help as the power supply is then forced to supply more power and so the frequency shifts to one that doesn't cause a squeal, but then you will find battery power doesn't last as long.
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    Mostly the noise isn't any sign of an impending problem or breakdown.
    Getting the laptop replaced will most likely get you one that doesn't squeal.
    Hope that information helps a bit, I know it can drive you mad when you get a high frequency squeal, and even madder when other people can't hear as their hearing isn't as good.
    The same sorts of noise are now used in areas where children hang out causing trouble, a high frequency noise is blasted out at a frequency that most adults can no longer hear but children can as it drives them insane, so if you can here the squeal and others can't that is quite normal and shows if anything you have younger hearing or are indeed younger.
    Regards
    Phil
    Message was edited by: Philip_l

  • Guide for Selecting a Power Supply

    Mod may want to make this a STICKY.
    Here's a general guide on how to select a PSU for your HP desktop.  The majority of standard ATX powersupply (PSU) should fit inside an HP case.  The exception would be a slim line case or the esoteric Blackbird. 
    Look for an 80+ certification on the PSU to save electricity.  A PC will normally idle or run at low load 75% of the time.  Therefore, look for a PSU that's more efficient in the 50-90W range.  An 80+ 350W PSU reaches the 80% efficiency level at 70W output (20% of rated output).  The output must be greater than 140W to achieve the same level of efficiency from an equivalent 80+ 700W PSU.  So picking a PSU that is rated 25% higher than the maximum ACTUAL load of the rig will save you more $ on electricity. 
    A modern PSU is designed to achieve peak efficiency between 20 and 80% of the rated output.  Running a PSU above the 80% load level will result in excessive heat, noise, and premature failure.
    An Nvidia rig with GeForce GTX 280 (1024MB on board RAM) will draw about 350W max from the wall.  If we factor in the efficiency of a 80+ PSU, then the actual load on the PSU is only 280W (350 x 0.80).  To calculate the required PSU, multiply the actual load by 1.25 (25% margin).  In this case we only need a 350W PSU (280 x 1.25) to run this GPU.
    Let's apply what we know to a Radeon HD 4870 (512MB on board RAM) rig.  290W max from the wall.  Actual load is 290W x 0.80 or 230W.  Now apply the 25% margin rule and we arrive at a PSU requirement of 290W (230W x 1.25).  Even if we apply a 50% safety margin, the power requirement is still under 350W (230W x 1.50).
    There is no need to overspec the PSU by 50% unless you run your PC at full load 24/7.  Keep in mind that there is a huge variation in PSU quality and rating.  A cheap 500W PSU may not be able to deliver as much power as a quality 350W.  Antec Earthwatts/NeoPower/TruePower, Corsair, and Seasonic are quality units widely available at many US retailers.
    Many high-end PSUs will need additional power from the PSU in the form of one or two 6/8 pin GPU power plug.  You can purchase an adaptor to convert a 4-pin molex to 6-pin GPU power plug.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-radeon-power,2122-3.html
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Found a review of the Corsair 400W (Seasonic-built power supply) that I've been recommending on this forum.  This ATX power supply should fit inside most HP case (minus Slimline).  It has ample power to drive a modern quad core plus Radeon 4870 or GTX280 video card. 
    At 100% load, we see a 2.5% drop in the +12VDC rail, which is still within spec and does not affect the performance of any component inside the PC.  +12VDC regulation at 82% load is a superb 0.5% with 45C case temperature.  Note that the power output and efficiency decrease with higher temperature. 
    Cheap power supplies are rated at 25C.  When these units are subjected to higher case temperature, the output can drop 10-20%.
    Again, we discover the sweet spot of a good PSU is 20-80%.  A good 400W PSU is more than adequate for many PC users.  This Corsair is only $30 after a $10 rebate.  That's a great price for a quality/quiet PSU that won't put a huge dent in your wallet.
    http://enthusiast.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MTYwOSw1LCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139008&Tpk=corsair%20400w
    Additional 20% off w/ promo code "Mar20", ends 3/31
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:40 AM
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:42 AM
    Message Edited by RoyalSerpent on 03-08-2009 11:45 AM

  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

    I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
    computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
    didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
    seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
    video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
    only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
    it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
    or just funning with the latest games.
    What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
    usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
    over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
    And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
    choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
    Well...Do we have your attention!?
    If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
    your PSU is trying to tell you something.
    To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
    supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
    their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
    and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
    only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
    that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
    One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
    foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
    It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
    PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
    become noisier as time goes by.
    As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
    then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
    If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
    APM (Advanced Power Management)
    APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
    to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
    are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
    function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
    All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
    are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
    modes.
    ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
    It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
    is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
    concerned about this feature.
    Line-Conditioning Circuitry
    A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
    the most unreliable of home sockets.
    EMI Filter
    This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
    as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
    PFCC
    Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
    delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
    Connectors
    There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
    1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
    2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
    3) Molex peripheral power connector
    4) Floppy power connector
    5) Serial ATA power connector
    On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
    Know What You Need
    When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
    install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
    products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
    really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
    recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
    as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
    worth looking into.
    If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
    Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
    calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
    Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
    150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
    to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
    Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
    can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
    an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
    each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
    the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Modular Power Supplys:
    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
    Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
    the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
    your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
    Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

    Quote
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
    I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

  • Crash when power supply is removed

    During the last week my computer has been doing something really weird. Sometimes when I disconnect the power supply, my computer will freeze up/get into the window that tels you that you need to restart the computer. I installed a new hard drive about 2 months ago and a new airport card like 2-3 weeks ago so that most likely is not the problem. The problem occurs wether or not I have charge left on my computer.

    Hi Pedro,
    The first point of call for strange power related problems (or any problem really is to reset the PMU, following the instructions on this page - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
    Regarding your other comments, regardless of your skill level (and to consider doing a hard drive swap in a 12 inch powerbook, you obviously have a fair bit) you may find that in re-assembly a cable has shorted somewhere or is not plugged in tightly, or something of that nature, so I would not immediately rule that out as a cause.

  • 1st gen. iMac G5 power supply failure

    Hi, all!
    My 20" iMac G5 here at work collapsed and died on me about a week ago. The computer just deactivated abruptly; I actually had thought that I had kicked the plug or stepped on the power bar by mistake. I restarted it, and it worked for twenty minutes before dying again. Now it's entirely unresponsive. Having read up on the matter here and in the Mac support pages, I'm quite sure the power supply has failed. I'm in the process of finding out whether the computer is still covered under Apple's Repair Extension Program. (http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/ - I know the iMac model is correct, my serial number matches the range, I'm just not sure if the computer is less than three years old.)
    Anyway, the important thing for me is the hard drive, not the machine itself. We're entirely Mac-based here at work, so there is no shortage of machines for me to work on (I've already replaced my old machine with a much newer Intel-based iMac), but I would very much like to retrieve my data from my old hard disk. I've downloaded the DIY guide for opening the 20" iMac G5 and removing the hard drive, but I need some advice on the best plan of action. Should I then open another, working G5, remove its hard drive, insert my old hard drive and transfer my files off to my new iMac through our company server? Or is there another way to approach it? Is the hard drive on my 20" first gen G5 compatible with newer mac models, or am I going to run into problems with connectors, physical disk size, etc.? Or, should I just leave well enough alone and leave the entire operation to a Mac Genius?
    This will be my first time opening an iMac. I believe that I can open the machines and remove-replace the hard drives without voiding any warranties, correct?
    Thanks so much in advance for your help and advice!
    Adam

    I am on the phone right now with a product specialist about my iMac G5 power supply issues. Kind of ***** because he has, in so many words, said that the Genius is the Alpha and Omega and can extend the 3 year coverage. For me that is great except that the Apple store is over an hour away. I don't understand why the dude on the phone can't pull the switch and make it happen as well.
    Factor in:
    Unplugging iMac G5 and all peripherals
    Loading it in the car
    Driving an hour
    Carrying it into the Mall (apple store)
    Waiting for my Genius appointment
    More than likely getting it fixed for free (from the sounds of things)
    Driving back after it is fixed
    Doing everything listed in reverse.
    Would it just be easier to pay the $108 for a new power supply, wait a few days, undo some screws, and BAM! it works again?
    Update. Off the phone now. The product specialist flexed his muscles, back handed the Genius to gain authority, and basically stated that they WILL DEFINITELY repair either the power supply or the logic board or both if needed. I have already had them replace the logic board once. BUT, I still have to load it up and take it to the Apple Store. Boo.

  • M7332 Power Supply-How can I tell if it works?

    I have a power book G3 Lombard, I believe. I have purchased a brand new power supply from ebay. But my computer won't start. The battery is dead too. It has been sitting idle for nearly a year.
    My question is- shouldn't I be able to test the output of the power supply with a voltmeter to prove that it works? I have purchased 3 different power supplies and they all produce no electricity at the outlet tip.

    ABoney,
    Welcome to the Discussions.
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    If unsuccessful and since the 'book has been stored for a year, I would recommend this procedure:
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    http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/PowerBook-G3-Lombard/PRAM-Battery/31/3/Page-3/PR AM-Battery
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    The purpose of this procedure is two-fold: You may have a corrupted power manager that will not clear normally and/or the PRAM battery has an internal short that prevents startup.

  • Power Supply... I'm an idiot! Help!

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    Connect the iPod to the computer. When it appears in iTunes, if using iTunes 7, select the iPod and then click the Music tab. If using iTunes 6 or earlier, go to edit-->preferences and select the iPod tab, then the music tab.
    Make sure the iPod is set to automatically update all songs and playlists. Click Apply/OK.
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