PowerBook 12" 1.33Ghz Won't Boot - Game Show Buzzer Sound

When I try to boot my PB, it just gives me a game show type buzzer sound. Does anyone know what that is? I've searched all over these forums and also Google, but can't find anyone else that's had this problem.
I just replaced the hard drive, so it's got a blank 80GB hard drive in it. The one I took out had failed. The battery is fully charged, and the power adapter seems to be working just fine as it glows green while plugged in.
Here's a video I made in case it's not clear what I'm talking about.
http://vimeo.com/848018

What was the question you got wrong? And how much did you wager? Ha ha ha. =)'
I was going to say one solution that I thought it might be, but when I watched your video of the problem, wow, that's the first time I've heard that sound.
Obviously, something is wrong, why your Mac is making that noise. I thought your problem was maybe the RAM modules needing to be reseated. One time I opened up a G3 iMac to swap hard drives, and when I rebooted, it would make a loud scratching/buzzing noise on startup.
My friend told me to check the RAM, and upon doing so, startup was fine. But the sound from your video doesn't match, so sorry.
Try using this site. They have answers to the most perplexing questions that sometimes can't be found here on the Apple Discussions. --> [http://macosx.com>

Similar Messages

PowerBook G4 1.67GHz Won't Boot, Doesn't Get Past the Grey Screen

The other day I was attempting to Safe Boot, and during the grey screen with the rotating cog, I could hear the hard drive spin down, the the display would turn off. The computer worked fine for the next few days, and now when I attempt to boot it (with nothing in the disc drive as well), it does the same thing. It simply shuts down before getting to the "Log In" screen.
When I used the Tiger install disc (note that it was a Tiger disc that came with our iMac Core 2 Duo, my other disc is at my parents' house), and held the C key while booting, I experienced my first kernel panic. I restarted and ejected the disc, but the computer still won't boot. I tried resetting the PRAM by restarting and holding CommandOption+PR, and I've even let it cycle a few times with no luck. I also did what was suggested on an Apple support page, where I remove the AC adapter plug, remove the battery, hold the Power button for 5 seconds, re-insert the battery, reattach the AC adapter, and try starting that way, and that didn't work either.
I have no idea what the problem is, I've never had an issue with the computer before at all. Any suggestions?
(I tried posting this in the Tiger forums, but it was suggested that I post here instead)

Ah, I believe I do have the a TechTool CD that came with my old iBook, perhaps I'll give that a shot.
I first noticed the issue when trying to Safe Boot because I was attempting to install the Flash 9 player. Apparently many people are having issues with it, and it was suggested to me on the Adobe forums that I try installing it in Safe Mode (the install software hangs at "Items Remaining to be Installed: 4").
I'll bring my PowerBook to my parents' house this weekend and see if I can give it a shot with the correct disc. I'll try to post back here to let you know if it worked out!

MacBook won't boot - stuck showing the Apple logo and the spinning circle.

Hi.
My MacBook suddenly froze when I was using it today. Displaying the spinning beach ball.
It never came out of it, fan running at max speed, so I tried to force restart it (Control-Command-Power), but that didn't work, so I forced the MacBook off (holding the power button pressed.)
When trying to start the MacBook again it couldn't boot. It kept displaying the grey screen, with the Apple logo and the spinning circle below the Apple logo.
I left the MacBook like this for 10-15 minutes, but nothing happened.
Went on to try the following.:
*- Removed the AC-adapter and battery for 5 minutes.*
*- Command-Option-P-R (Resetting PRAM and NVRAM).*
*- Resetting System Management Controller (SMC).*
*- Command-S (singleuser boot)*
And checking the HDD with sbin/fsck -fy
= "The volume ** appears to be OK."
*- Command-V*
Stops on the following line, and fan ramps up to full speed.:
DNSServiceRegister("ssh.tcp."): -65537)
Force reboot didn't work. Had to force it off.
But, nothing helped.
It simply won't boot.
I also tried to boot Ubuntu 7.10, but it hangs after a short while displaying "Kernel panic".
Force reboot didn't work. Had to force it off.
Also tried the option to boot from the first HDD (in the boot menu on the Ubuntu 7.10 disc), but that didn't work either. Only got a black screen, with a blinking cursor top left, and fan ramping up to max.
Again, force reboot didn't work. Had to force it off.
The only thing that has worked so far is exiting the Ubuntu 7.10 CD boot menu, and pressing enter on the prompt that appears.
But, after rebooting, the MacBook still refuses to boot into Mac OS X.
I left the MacBook alone, hoping it would work its way out of the spinning circle, but after 2 h 38 min nothing had happened.
Does anyone know how to fix this?
:. nattugglan

This happened to me last night.
I was updating my iPod and I got a message saying that it needed to do an update. I installed the update and went on ahead putting new songs on my iPod. When it was finished i ejected as I usually do and closed down.
When I went to check me e-mails this morning the Macbook would not boot. It sticks on the grey screen with the Apple and the spinny disc underneath, then it restarts and sticks on the same screen. The last software to be onstalled was Norton 11 on Monday but I have used the Macbook since. I cannot think why it will not boot.
I am loathed to do a reinstall as I have some things on the Macbook that I had not yet backed up.
Any advice?

PowerBook 12" won't boot, emits a strange sound

Hi,
a few nights ago I was using my PowerBook 12", idly browsing about, until suddenly the screen went blank and the loudspeakers endlessly emitted a sound that reminded me of a malfunctioning synthesizer (you know, like a tone generator gone bonkers).
I shut down the computer by pressing the power button for a few seconds, and tried to restart the machine. Same thing: blank screen, annoying noise coming from the speakers. The **** thing just doesn't start up anymore. I couldn't even shut down the computer by pressing the power button, but had to eject the battery.
Realising something had gone awry wrong with the PowerBook, I stuck my noise closer to the computer, and I could sense a weak smell of burning. My suspect is that the fan broke down (it was quite noisy before the incident), I didn't notice it and so the processor burned from its own heat. Currently I am trying open the computer to verify this, but I am having troubles unscrewing the case.
Meanwhile, does anyone know what could be the problem, and how difficult/expensive it would be to get it fixed? I understand that if it is something with the logic board or something that is integrated to it it would be just better to get a new computer. Having said that, is it possible for me to use the memory chip and the Airport Extreme card of my PowerBook in a MacBook?
Much thanks in advance.
PB 12" 867 MHz, 1.2 GB, 100 GB Mac OS X (10.4)

Welcome to the Apple discussions.
Sorry to hear about your problem. If you can load a CD, you might try the Apple hardware test - insert the first OS X CD that came with your system (which should say AHT Version x.x in small print on the CD) and reboot holding the option key down. Choose Apple hardware test and follow directions. Choose the extended test.
Unless you noticed a much hotter system - you would likely have felt it through the keyboard and palm rest, not sure that a broken fan allowed your CPU to burn itself up. It is possible, howver, that the logic board has an issue - ifixit.com and pbparts.com both show the 867Mhz logic board for $349, which would be less expensive than a new computer.
No parts from your Powerbook can be used on the MacBook, as it's a different architecture (Intel) and newer wireless technology (802.11n).

Repairing laptops that won't boot and show the blinking caps

Here's a little tutorial for all of you who have this annoying issue. It mostly applies to the 1 blink code (other codes have much simpler and straightforward solutions).
Ok, so the code says that it's caused because of a not functional CPU. That is most likely not the case. Most people who had the 1 blink code actually had a problem with the integrated video graphics card or northbridge of their laptops, not the CPU (in fact, CPU failures are quite uncommon). The problem is that these chips overheat quite often, they don't have good cooling and dissipation systems (most of the time, it is shared with the CPU which is absolutely insane), and the solder connections are of very bad quality. So with overheating, solder points start fracturing or cracking and they stop making contact, which causes all these issues, including the infamous RRoD and YLoD issues in the Xbox and Playstation consoles with their soldered video chips.
So there are two main ways of dealing with this:
1 - Reflow
This is a short-term but easy solution that simply consists of reheating the damaged component to the point of getting rid of said fractures. It has a high success rate, as many people will tell you. It worked for me always, but again, after some time the issue may come back. Still, this is a very simple solution that doesn't require too much skill or equipment and is satisfying enough for most users. This is what I'm going to show how to do in this tutorial.
2 - Reball
Reflowing doesn't always work, and when it does, it doesn't last long. Instead, reballing is a permanent solution which consists of removing the chip in its entirety and replacing all the solder contacts. Reballing requires specific equipment (a reball station), reballing stencils and leaded solder balls. It is a long procedure, which requires some skill and it only should be performed by experienced people. When a reflow won't work, you are better off sending your laptop to a reballing technician, or buying a new one (which would be a waste, in my opinion).
Ok, so how can we do a reflow? There are many ways to do this:
1) Reheating your laptop: This is a simple as it sounds. Some people call it the "blanket" method, because you can just simply turn on your laptop, wrap it with a blanket or sweater and let it run until it shuts down because of overheating. I absolutely don't recommend doing this, as there are probably many working components (particularly the hard drive holding your data) that won't benefit from the overheating. I recommend disassembling the laptop and taking out all the good parts, like the hard drive, RAM sticks and any extra PCI-e cards installed. After that you can just simply unplug the cooling fan connector from the board then turn the laptop on. This will cause it to overheat faster, so you won't have to waste hours waiting for it to get hot (using the blanket method, it can take a lot of time). Most laptops will shutdown themselves after reaching a certain threshold temperature, if yours doesn't, well, just keep an eye on it so you can turn it off before it catches fire. After it turns off, let it rest and cool for at least an hour, then connect the cooling fan again, turn the laptop on and see if it boots. If it doesn't, well, you can keep trying this until it does (not recommended after 3 tries or so), or try the next methods.
2) The oven method: This a bit tricky, but it may be more successful in some cases. First, strip down your computer until you get to the bare board holding the video chip. Remove the CPU, heatsink & fan, RAM, BIOS battery, wires, speakers, stickers, plastic sticky guards, foam spacers, absolutely everything that can be removed from the motherboard. Then preheat your household oven to approximately 200°C or 385°F. If your oven does not have a digital temperature display, perhaps use an internal oven thermometer to make sure the oven is in the right temperature range. Roll up some kitchen foil into balls, between half an inch and an inch wide, and place them on a baking tray. Place your motherboard, with CPU socket and GPU facing upwards, on top of the foil balls. It is a good idea to wrap additional foil around the more sensitive parts of the motherboard, like areas where there are capacitors and the CPU socket.
Try to wrap the rest of the motherboard in foil to protect it, leaving just the GPU exposed on both the top and bottom of the motherboard. Then place the baking tray with the laptop motherboard on it into the preheated oven.
Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated at this stage, turn on the extractor fan to full power and/or open an outside door and windows. This will help to take away any fumes. Ideally, you should leave the kitchen while any fumes are still present. A couple of times during the procedure, have a quick look through the oven door (without opening it) making sure there are no smoke or flames visible. This is unlikely to occur, but can happen if stickers were left on the motherboard. After 8 minutes, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Do not remove the motherboard from the oven at this stage, it could be very hot and it is a better idea to allow it to cool down gradually. Take care not to inhale any fumes that might be present. After 20 minutes to half an hour, remove the cool motherboard from the oven and begin rebuilding your laptop. If all has gone well, it will boot up and the problem will be fixed. If the problem remains, you could try the procedure again, leaving it in the oven for a couple of minutes longer.
After performing a reflow in an oven, I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly, then turn it on and allow any fumes that may have built up to be completely removed. This is especially important before cooking food in the oven again.
3) The heat gun method: Probably the best way to do a reflow, it is less destructive than the previous method (as you can focus on a single place, rather than overheating the entire board), but it may be worse than the first. The first step is to test out how well your heat gun will melt the solder. Place a chunk of solder on a coin, hold the heat gun one inch above it and record how long it takes the solder to flow. Once you have the timing right, mask off the motherboard (already removed from the case) so that just the chip in question is accessible. Reflow with the same spacing and timing as you did during the coin test.
Did it work?
If your laptop works now, then you can do a couple of extra things to avoid this problem in the future:
Avoid overheating by underclocking the CPU: You can run your laptop's CPU at a lower clock speed (it will run slower, BUT not as much as you think. Undercloking by a 50% doesn't mean your laptop will perform 50% slower). It not only protects your laptop from damaging over time, it has the added benefits of making it run *much* cooler and quieter and also having longer battery life, which is awesome as well. To do this, simply (in Windows 7 and up) click the battery icon in your notification area, select More power options, then change the selected plan (like Balanced) settings (click on Change plan settings), select Change advanced power settings, scroll down and, under Processor power management, Maximum processor state, type on both 'On Battery' and 'Plugged in' a value less than 50%. Change Minimum processor state to 1% and then System cooling policy to Active.
Avoid playing heavy games and running intensive applications: Such programs very often cause the underpowered integrated graphics card and CPU to overheat, which causes all these issues. Use a desktop machine with dedicated graphics for such programs if you want your laptop to last.
Again, always take out the hard drive before any of these procedures if you don't wanna lose any data, and if you can, any other components that can get damaged in the way. Note that a reflow, particularly the oven or heat gun methods are usually last-ditch resorts because they can permanently damage your computer, in particular if performed incorrectly. DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I can't be held responsible for any accidents or unwanted results that may occur after following this tutorial. If you have doubts, then you're generally better off sending your laptop to professional technicians than trying to repair these kind of issues by yourself. Unless a repair costs more than replacing your laptop, that is.
And before starting any of these procedures, try to research your issue on the Internet as much as you can. Search for your particular model, search in this exact same forum and any other as you'll be able to read about people experiencing this problem. You can search reflow on your favorite search engine and you'll find detailed tutorials and many videos which will show the procedure and help you do a better repair. Once you're very comfortable and knowledgeable with the subject, you can go ahead with the repair.

This is actually good stuff and well written but I hesitate to advise people to use either the "oven trick" or really even the heat gun method as both are notriously short-lived even if they appear effective. Your far better bet is to send the board in to one of the vendors on the internet who are set up to do a proper reball. Even those fixes are good for maybe 12-18 mos. But again, you get a high grade for spelling it out.

Macbook Pro won't boot up makes clicking sound

Hi.
After upgrading to Firefox 4 on my 15inch 2006 Macbook Pro, it froze for over 5 minutes and began to make an odd repeated clicking sound. I tried force-quitting, but that wouldn't work, so I restarted it. Now it won't even boot up fully, it just makes a similar odd clicking sound (but not as frequently).
However, the grey Apple screen does appear, along with the revolving wheel. It seems very odd though, as the light at the front of the machine goes out as soon as the machine attempts to restart, which suggests that something physical may have occured to some internal hardware.
I even tried booting up in Safe Mode, but it is no different. Also, Caps lock and Number lock keys both appear to be working, so hopefully the keyboard is still functional.
Does anyone have any ideas what may have happened. My Applecare expired about two years ago, so really need some assistance if possible.
Thanks
George

First try booting from your OS X installer DVD. If the computer boots into the installer then do this:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
After returning to the installer reinstall Snow Leopard. This will not erase the drive. Reinstalling takes from 45 minutes to an hour or so.

Macbook Pro won't boot or show partition

I have my macbook pro partitioned with leopard and tiger (for protools) . I also have a copy of leopard on an external hard drive that I boot to occasionally. While on this external drive I had to do a manual shutdown after it froze and now my macbook pro won't show the internal drive partition with leopard on it. It will only boot to the internal partition with tiger on it. Even though I can see the leopard partition on the desktop and access it through tiger it is still not showing up in startup disk. I held the option key during startup and it gave me the choice to choose the leopard partition but after it started to go through booting it would then shut down.
Any suggestions?
I ran disk permissions and repair but its said everything is okay.

I would try Diskwarrior 4.1 and see if that can repair the drive.
btw how did you get Tiger on your Macbook Pro?
My Tiger install DVD will not install on my Macbook pro even though it is a 3.1 version machine.
I need to run Protools as well.

Won't boot and shows flashing file folder with ?

My Mac Air will not boot. Instead it just flashes a gray file folder with a question mark?

Click here and follow the instructions. If the computer was running Mac OS X 10.6.8 or earlier and you reach the third set of steps, insert a Mac OS X install disk or connect the computer's original thumbdrive.
(119940)

My ipad won't boot up, shows itunes icon and picture of plug

Please help. ALl of a sudden my ipad2, which I turn it on - starts with the white apple and then switches to an iTUnes icon and a picbure of a white Apple charger plug (old iPhones/iIPad versi9on) I can't get past it into the ipad itself. what do I do?

FORCE IPAD INTO RECOVERY MODE
1. Turn off iPad
2. Turn on computer and launch iTune (make sure you have the latest version of iTune)
3. Plug USB cable into computer's USB port
4. Hold Home button down and plug the other end of cable into docking port. Do not release button until you see picture of iTune and plug (very important)
5. Release Home button.
ON COMPUTER
6. iTune has detected iPad in recovery mode. You must restore this iPad before it can be used with iTune.
7. Select "Restore iPad"...
Note: Data will be lost

My powerbook G3 won't boot

I was just given a Powerbook G3 because it won't boot. When I start the computer I get a folder icon with a question mark in it. What does that mean and what do I do about it? Please help me. This is driving me nuts.

Welcome To  Discussions ReRick!
The original version of OS, that was pre-installed on the PowerBook G3 Pismo Firewire / 500, was Mac OS 9.0.2, and can be upgraded to Tiger 10.4.x.
If you do not have the system discs, I suggest that you call Apple Customer Service at 1-800-767-2775, furnish the Serial Number and specifications of the PowerBook, and request to purchase a set of replacement system discs.
However, the discs will be for the original Mac OS 9, so you also need to purchase, a Full Retail Version, of whichever version of OS X, that you wish to upgrade to.
If the Pismo, has never been upgraded from the original OS, there will also be some preparatory work, such as a possible Firmware Update.
If one is required, you must start the computer from a Mac OS 8 or Mac OS 9 System Folder on the computer's hard disk, not from a CD, in order to install it.
That is why I suggest that you order the original system install discs.
Without an installed system, there is no means of determining, if the Firmware has been updated.
ali b

Powerbook won't boot from CD

Trying to upgrade the OS on my 17" Powerbook G4 and it won't boot from the Panther disk or the Tiger disk. I can't even get it to boot from DiskWarrior CD.
I was able to boot from the original restore disks that came with the machine, but the OS is 10.2.7. I was able to run Disk Doctor, but that didn't seem to do anything.
Anyone experiencing similar issues

I had the opposite problem. I was unable to boot from the restore disc that came with my powerbook, but my retail Tiger DVD worked. I copied the restore disc using my Mac mini, and the copy booted fine. Seems like the slot-loaders are a little picky sometimes.
You could probably convince Apple to exchange the media.

Macbook Pro keep ejecting OSX disc. It won't boot.

Hi
I bought a Mac OSX 10.6.3 Snow Leopard CD (Family Pack) to upgrade on my Macbook Pro, but it won't boot.
There are sound like it was running but it reject in the end. My Macbook Pro is Intel Core Duo 2GHz
with 2GB Ram. It is currently running OSX 10.5.8.
I tried the disc on other Macbook running 10.6.6 purchased 2-3 years ago and it work.
So i don't really know what happen with mine. My DVD drive work fine though.
Anyone have an idea need help please.

OK I did it anyway. It make my Mac work faster a bit. For example cursur arrown moves smoother.
But still doesn't solve ejecting Leopard disc problem. Do you have any other suggestion?
By the way I was able to sucessfully install Leopard on other Mac. It seem like mine is the only problem.
My Macbook Pro bought in 2007
Intel Duo Core 2 GHz
2 GB RAM
Running OSX 10.5.8
Please help!

Help! Powerbook won't boot..

Hello Mac Users;
I'm looking for some help! I was just sitting here at my desk playing a game on my pc, when I look over at my powerbook, an update has come up. Itunes and Mac OSX update. I reach over to do the update, type in my password, close Itunes, update goes through the process. Finishes the update, and then says I need to restart. I restart the Powerbook, and says something about entourage fails, and the ball just continues to turn for about 15-20min. I panic, press and hold the power button to turn it off. I restart the Powerbook, and hear the ding like it is going to start up, but the display is blank, upon further investigation, I can see the apple in the back ground and the gear turning. The backlight isn't coming on, and the fans will turn on when I power it off, and power it on.. I think I have reset the pvram or whatever, by taking battery out, and holding down powerbutton for 5 secs, I power it back up and still doing the same thing. What happened, and is there anyway for me to get this fixed? I do have apple care, but last time they had to replace the logic board it took 2 weeks. I would try to put in the tiger cd, except I watch the movie Blow this afternoon on it, and it is still in there. I tried to eject the dvd and it won't do anything.
Please help me. What can I do?
Cliffs;
1. update
2. won't boot
3. lcd backlight not on;
4. can see apple and gear
5. tried pvram reset
6. dvd in drive
7. Help?
17" Powerbook G4 1.67ghz

Hello Brandy,
If you cant see the screen at all, or if its very dark...like theres no backlight, i would suggest this to remove the disc.
immediatley after boot chime, press and hold the mouse button on the trackpad. this will automatically eject the disc in the drive, and make life easier for you.
also, try(seperately to removing the disc), after you hear the boot chime, press and hold apple-option-P-R, all together, untill you hear a second and 3rd boot chime then let them go. this may help revive your screen. otherwise, take it on in to the apple service provider. hopefully its something simple, but you never can tell.
let me know how u went
bryza

New HDD installed in PowerBook G3, won't boot from installation disk.

I just installed a new hard drive in my G3 Wallstreet and I can't get it to boot from the original Apple CD.
I've tried holding the C key as well as +⌥+⇧+⌫, but to no avail.
The CD tests fine in my old iMac G4, so maybe the culprit is the optical drive, but then again, I'm not so sure.
Is there a way to either boot my PowerBook or install OSX from my iMac G4?
Message was edited by: rick268 Also, I can boot into Open Firmware just fine.

Thanks for your help.
WeLoveMacs wanted $50, but I just scored an entire topcase on eBay for $15, shipped. We'll see what happens.
Allan Jones wrote:
I maintatined three Wallstreets for a friend for years. They stayed in regular service from new until he replaced them with MacBook Pros last summer!
In the years of keeping the old soldiers almost relavent, I ran into a "won't boot from a system disk" issue on two of them. In both cases, replacing a dead PRAM battery fixed the issue. Don't ask me why but that was the only thing that fixed them.
When I was supporting those, you could still get new Wallstreet batteries from Other World Computing. Today they no longer show them. I'm not sure where to steer your for a new one. USed batteries are like used chewing gum, IMHO.
You can try disconecting the wire from the PRAM battery to the logic board. That might help. Requires some take-down:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/PowerBook_G3_Wallstreet

HT203176 17" 1.5 GHZ PowerBook G4 Won't Boot

I have a 17" 1.5GHZ PowerBook G4 with I think OS X 10.3. It won't boot past the apple logo gray screen. I have tried to safe boot, boot in single user mode and a myriad other fixes and can't get the machine to boot no matter what. The only thing that works so far on this machine is the Open Firmware command line utility, and as far as I can find, there's no disk check that can be done from it. No install disks were shipped with this machine. I only have access to a Windows PC to download a boot utility and create a boot disk from so that I can run a disk utility of some kind. Is it possible to create a cd or thumb drive from a PC that a Mac will boot from? Or do you have any other suggestions for someone that doesn't have some other media to boot from?

Well, you could buy a copy of OS X 10.5. The DVD needs to look like this:
Some users have also reported success calling Apple and requesting install disks.

PowerBook 12" 1.33Ghz Won't Boot - Game Show Buzzer Sound

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