RAM Drive, other SSD as PS Scratch?

Hey
As I sit watching the hourglass spin on another batch (open 1GB file, downsample to 20MB, save as tif) I'm wondering if the use of a RAM drive like the I-ram (4GB PCI SSD or ?) as my primary PS scratch would speed up a process like this. I do a ton of this kind of stuff. Presently I'm using a 35GB 10k Ultra SCSI for scratch. Most of the time is spent on disk grinding as the Task Manager shows about a 7-35% processor hit at any given time and PS scratch remains @ around 1.7GB. Also, would it be faster to include a "purge all" step in a batch like this? I'd appreciate anyone's experiance with this since it would be about a $350 experiment I'd need to talk our IT dept into...
Thanks! TLL
Other specs - Dell Precision 650 3gb RAM (maxed out), dual P4's, 2-70GB and the 35, all 10k Ultras

From what I've read over the last couple of weeks, SSD isn't much if any faster than very fast hard drives. I don't know about RAM drives, but you'd think they would be the fastest alternative. That's where I would focus my online research.

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Photoshop CS6 scratch disk on hard drive or SSD?

I've purchased a Windows 7 PC with 16 MB RAM, 2 terabytes and a 250 GB SSD. I'm going to load Photoshop on the SSD and the OS on the hard drive. Where should the scratch disk go?

It's a bit tough to answer, as you have not described how you'll be using your system overall. Are you going to be doing almost exclusively Photoshop work with it or are you looking for good all-around performance?
What brand and model SSD is it that you have, specifically? Generally speaking, if it's a modern model SSD with wear-leveling features in its internal controller, and with the other givens you mentioned, you will probably want to use the SSD for scratch, as SSD throughput is very high (hundreds of megabytes per second). With SSD throughput levels, when Photoshop starts using its scratch space heavily the performance hit is much less severe than with an HDD. There is also not nearly as much concern with an SSD about dedicating the drive to the task, as even if there are other activities on the drive the near-zero latency means that SSD supports multitasking much better.
However, if you feel you'll never exceed 250GB for OS and applications (i.e., you're going to keep a relatively simple system), using the SSD for operating system and apps alike might be a better approach. In that case there won't be enough space also for Photoshop scratch.
Just keep in mind, when planning your "this goes here, that goes there" distribution that Windows and its apps are really most comfortable with EVERYTHING running on drive C:. That's not to say it's a necessity, just that things tend to work more smoothly in that setup. Given that, you might actually consider getting a second SSD and making a RAID 0 array for drive C: with plenty of space available. That's the approach I took (in my case with four SSDs).
-Noel

Why do people set their scratch disk to a RAM drive?

From what I've read, the scratch disk in Photoshop is there so that if you become low on RAM, it will move data from the RAM to the allocated scratch disk...so why bother making that scratch disk the RAM when it'll just be going from the RAM...to the RAM? Am I missing something here?

Siderz95 wrote:
From what I've read, the scratch disk in Photoshop is there so that if you become low on RAM, it will move data from the RAM to the allocated scratch disk...so why bother making that scratch disk the RAM when it'll just be going from the RAM...to the RAM? Am I missing something here?
They're the ones missing something. It doesn't help to swap RAM to RAM. Now, it's possible people are talking about pointing their TEMP area to a RAM drive. There could be merit in that, but...
You want a real leg up? Get a good SSD for scratch, or take it even further and run your entire system off an array of SSDs.
-Noel

How can I install to a drive other than C?

I installed the CS6 Master Collection trial version. During the installation, I specified a destination folder on my D: drive (C: is a small SSD drive meant to hold only Windows).
For the 32-bit versions of the programs, the shortcuts created in the Start Menu point to the D: location I specified during installation, but clicking on them gets me a "file not found" error, because the actual programs were placed on the C: drive. They work if I copy the installed Adobe folder and its full contents over to the appropriate D: location.
The 64-bit versions are a different mess: Unlike with the 32-bit versions, the installer placed the 64-bit versions of the programs in the specified D: drive folder, but when I attempt to start the programs, I get the "Configuration Error: Please uninstall and reinstall the program; Error: 1" message. Presumably this is because some of the configuration files or settings the programs are looking for are actually pointing to locations on the C: drive, where the installer put them despite my directions. But I have no idea which files or settings they are, or how to find them.
How can I fix these configuration errors and get the 64-bit versions working?
If anyone from Adobe sees this, can you please fix the installer so that it installs the ENTIRE package where I specified, and that all the various pieces installed know where the rest of the pieces are in a non-C drive installation?
My system:
Windows 7 SP1
Intel Core i7, 8GB RAM
C drive: 60GB SSD (Windows system files)
D drive: 1TB HDD (All other programs and files, including my Windows User folders)

Yes, I have redirected my User folder to the D: drive.
I know that some shared components must reside on the C: drive; that's fine. I just don't have room for the entire installation on there.
The real issue here is that, when a drive other than C: is selected as the destination, the CS6 package installs into a broken state every time, out of the gate, on my system. Some components get installed to D: and some to C:, but the various components of the programs seem confused about what exists where, as shown below:
I select a folder on D: as the destination folder for the install, and here is what I get:
64-bit versions of the package -- Program files are installed to the D: drive as specified, but attempting to start them results in a configuration error message stating that the program must be uninstalled and reinstalled, and lists "Error code: 1".
32-bit versions of the package -- Program files are installed to the C: drive against what I specified. The shortcuts installed in the Start menu for the 32-bit versions point to the locations where these program files SHOULD be, on the D: drive. If the Adobe folder containing the program files is copied over to the correct location on D:, these programs function normally with no errors.
I have the 32-bit versions working by copying the program files from C: to D:. I just want to get the 64-bit versions working as well.
Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated; I'm really looking forward to testing the CS6 suite on my system!

Speed up early 2009 macbook5,2 by switching mechanical hard drive to SSD

I am running Mavericks on an early 2009 Macbook5,2 4gb RAM CPU@2ghz Intel core 2 duo. It is running at an unacceptably slow speed. Network performance is very hopeless too. I am wondering if switching mechanical hard disk to a SSD would revive this macbook enough to keep it for a few more years. Please advise if this approach has a chance to improve its performance adequately. If yes, what steps to follow to migrate software on my existing hard drive to SSD?

Your Macbook has a SATA bus.
1. This is what I recommend. Some drives which are SATA 2/3 compliant do not support SATA 1. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-SATA_6_0_gb-MZ-7PD512BW/dp/B0 09NB8WTI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405128604&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+840+pro
I have used this in SATA 1 systems without any issues (the OCZ Vector is an example of problems with SATA 1).
2. Replacing the drive can be done using these steps - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Core+2+Duo+Hard+Drive+Replacement/514
3. I suggest you use an external drive and make a Time Machine Backup of your MB, before you make any changes. If you have a Time Capsule, it can help as well (otherwise see if you can find a USB/FW external drive for backup).
4. Once you have a good backup, replace the drive using steps in 2. Take the old drive from the MB and put it in an external SATA enclosure (preferably one that has both USB and Firewire), so it becomes your external boot disk. If you do not want a SATA enclosure, you can also consider a FW only enclosure.
5. You can now boot from the external disk. Restore the TM backup in step 3 to the internal SSD. You will have to format the internal SSD (because it is usually unformatted). FW connectivity will allow you to daisy-chain the TM backup and your external boot drive. The restore also makes your internal drive bootable. All your applications/settings/accounts/passwords will also be preserved this way. You are essentially restoring everything from the old drive to the new drive.
If you need help regarding TM, let me know.

I would like to buy a Macbook Pro and the model which I have selected is MGX82HN/A MB PRO DUAL CORE i5 2.6GHZ/8 GB RAM/256 GB SSD/ Iris Graphics device. would it suffice for a normal user ? Please advice.

I would like to buy a Macbook Pro and it would be my first Mac device. I have selected this model MGX82HN/A MB PRO DUAL CORE i5 2.6GHZ/8 GB RAM/256 GB SSD/ Iris Graphics device. Please advice whether it would suffice a normal user who works in a management consulting industry with project presentation related software in work ? Thanks.

Saptarshii wrote:
instead of buying an Apple USB superdrive, is it safe to use third party usb optical drive ?
Not only would it be safe but less expensive as well. The tray loaders are deemed to be the most reliable. Apple does not support Blueray so avoid that.
Ciao.

Wich ram and which SSD would people recommend me to upgrade to?

I have a Macbook Pro Mid 2010. 2.66ghz intel i7. And I am about to upgrade my ram from 4 to 8, and changing my hard drive to SSD. Wich ram and which SSD would people recommend?

I like both Crucial RAM and Crucial SSDs. Maybe because that's what I own and have never had any problems with either. Some people like OWC but I find that they are overpriced for the same, or similar, products from Crucial.
Visit the Crucial website and click on the System Scanner tab. Download, unzip and run a small app that will report your model # information back to Crucial and you'll be presented with recommended upgrades for your particular model.
Note that you can sometimes find the same Crucial items for a couple of bucks cheaper on Amazon.
Good luck,
Clinton

RAM and/or SSD upgrade help?

Hello, and thanks in advance for any insights to the following:
I CURRENTLY have a macbook pro with 2.66 core 2 , and 4 gigs of RAM 1067 DDR3.
Current hard drive is the 320gb spinning drive.
2 questions.
Would I benefit from changing out the RAM for 8 gigs of 1333mhz RAM?
And secondly, changing out the Drive to a 128GB SSD? 250read 230write.
I'm assuming the SSD is a "no-brainer" and would speed things up somewhat.
I currently have Firefox, iMovie, Picasa, , Mail, iPhoto and Activity monitor OPEN, along with a few utilities.
After 2 days of use without shutting down is as follows:
FREE 329mb
WIRED 635mb
ACTIVE 2.43 GB
INACTIVE 645mb
USED 3.65GB
VM SIVE 140GB
PAGE INS 583mb
PAGE OUTS 25mb
SWAP USED 112mb
Thanks again.

Your computer _will not run with 1333 RAM_, however if you upgrade to 8GB you should gain some performance. I'd recommend Crucial and OWC (www.macsales.com) RAM.
An SSD will only speed up starting your computer and opening files and applications. Because Mac's should really be left on 24/7 (let them sleep when not in use) restarting is a moot point. If you are in habit of opening lots of files and applications throughout a normal day you will be impressed with the speed of an SSD.
Another alternative and far less expensive is getting a Hybrid HD. Currently Seagate is the only manufacture I know that makes one, I had one in my recently sold MBP and was very impressed with it's performance. The only downside I noticed was the battery life was diminished somewhat. Here is a link to the drive I was referring to, I've seen them as low as about $100 but normally they sell for about $130-$140. IMHO it's a much better bang for the buck than a SSD.
Roger

How do I assign a file to a drive other than the drive that contains my program software?

I've just installed a video editing program on my new Mac Pro Xeon 64 bit workstation. I want to ensure that all my media files reside on a drive other than the drive that contains programs. I had no problem doing this on my old Dell. How do I do this on my Mac Pro? -- Gary

Application Preferences.
Next time, 'what' program would also help.
Most people do setup with a dedicated boot drive with OS and apps, .then use other drives or array(s) for media, scratch as needed, including external hardware RAID.

Install Adobe CC apps on a drive other than C?

Can I install CC apps on a drive other than C? If so, how?

It does indeed:
I haven't tried it either, in fact I've always heard that the smart thing is to install in the default location. But the option is there. Keep in mind that a lot of stuff will go to the user folder on the C drive in any case, so you can't keep it entirely off C.
Normally I'd ask "why?" - but SSDs have brought back space restrictions, at least for a while. I'm getting a little worried for my 240 GB system/apps SSD, which is very nearly full pretty soon.

Tecra M7 DVD: CD/DVD RAM drive does not work since installing Vista

I did a clean installation on my Vista Ready new M7. It had XP tablet to begin with and the DVD drive worked fine. Indeed I used it to install Vista (Home Premium).
Now it does not work at all. It spins but does not read. Device Manager tells me device cannot start. Tried to update driver and it told me that it has the most uptodate driver.
Downloaded all the drivers from Tosh download centre for Vista upgrade of M7 (which got bluetooth, screen rotation etc to work fine). But none of the downloads seemed to be a driver for the DVD-Ram drive. Can not find a driver anywhere else (including Panasonic site).
DVD drive is Mat****a DVD-RAM UJ-841s
Any suggestions?

Hi
On the Toshiba driver page you can find the DLA for Tecra m7.
Did you try to install the XP DVD-RAM driver from the Toshiba page on the Vista OS?
Maybe it will works
But listen the CD/DVD drive uses the common Microsoft drivers which are included into Vista or XP.
Therefore an additional driver should be not needed!
One additional proposal;
Remove the CD/DVD drive from the device manager and reboot the notebook.
After new reboot the OS should install the drive again and should renew the software.
Other hint:
- Start the registry
- Choose the registry key;
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Contro l\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}
- In the right pane, right-click UpperFilters and LowerFilters then click Delete.
- and restart the notebook

T60 HDD res. partition, USB ports and DVD-RAM drive no longer recognizing data/media!

I have a base installation of the IBM T60.. I made no modifications to the setup or configuration of how the HDD is structured nor have I downloaded and installed any strange drivers... only automatically downloaded drivers from Microsoft update and manually downloaded driver updates from the Lenovo website.
One day everything was working fine. Next day, my USB devices, reserved partition (can't remember what this is called) and the DVD-RAM drive stopped working but power was still getting to these devices.
My DVD-RAM drive is seen as a DVD-RAM on first bootup. When I insert a CD or DVD media in the drive, the Explorer tree changes DVD-RAM to CD-ROM in the Explorer (really strange). It behaves like there is no media in the drive. Cannot boot with that drive either.
In addition, I have external USB HDD and Flash drives as well. None of them work on this T60 anymore.
When I plug in an external USB HDD or Flash drive, I get "not formatted" error message and a prompt to format my drives?!
I tested these USB external drives on a desktop machine and verified that they are working 100% fine. So the problem has something to do with my IBM/Lenovo T60.
It almost seems like something broke on the motherboard perhaps? I downloaded and installed the latest BIOS updates as well to no avail. Please help. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration of this issue.
Message Edited by bodmaster on 07-18-2008 09:51 PM
Message Edited by bodmaster on 07-18-2008 09:52 PM
Message Edited by bodmaster on 07-18-2008 09:52 PM

Anyone have any ideas? *praying*

How to migrate from internal hard drive to SSD (Solid State Drive)?

I just bought 128GB SSD. I want to replace my internal hard drive with SSD on MacBook Pro. My internal drive has only Mac OS installed (no dual boot with Windows/Linux). Going forward I want to boot my Mac OS from SSD and use internal drive for backup purposes only. I read many forums regarding this here, but each one talks about different methods of doing it.
* Carbon Copy Cloner for the Mac side (free)
* Casper 6.0 for the Windows side (not free)
* SuperDuper
Can some one provide me with simple steps to migrate Mac OS along with my personal data from internal hard drive to SSD?

Because Windows is not involved, you don't need Casper or anything else Windows-related.
Use Disk Utility to repair permissions and repair the directory on your internal hard drive. Buy an external SATA hard drive enclosure* and mount your SSD in it. Connect it to the MBP and use Disk Utility to create a single GUID partition on it, formatting the partition Mac OS Extended. Use SuperDuper or Carbon Copy Cloner, it doesn't matter which, to make a bootable clone of the internal hard drive on the SSD in the external enclosure. Restart the computer holding down the Option key, and select the SSD to start up from; the purpose here is to verify that the SSD really is bootable. If that works OK, shut down, disconnect the external enclosure, and exchange the drives.
*I recommend a FireWire 800 enclosure, but they are much more expensive than USB-only enclosures, which will work OK — USB is just slow.

I have a Mac book pro with regular drive, I want to replace the drive with SSD, so can I do t for Mac book pro purchased in 2012 and which SSD is recommended. I am looking for 500 to 700GB SSD.

I have a Mac book pro(13 inch non-retina, i7) with regular drive, I want to replace the drive with SSD, so can I do it for Mac book pro purchased in 2012 and which SSD is recommended.
I am looking for 500 to 700GB SSD.
Thanks

Upgrading your MacBook Pro with a Solid State Drive...
...call back with any questions.
Clinton

DVD RAM Drive issue

We have a macbook pro with 2 gig of RAM and osx tiger 10.4.8. We have a DVD RAM drive due to the nature of our work. This drive always seemed to take longer to sin up thn other drives but I just assumed this was o.k Now the drive simply spits all DVD types out, but plays CD's just fine which seems odd to us. We would like to know if it could be someting simple before we send it away to apple. Any suggestions please?

From my experience it sounds like you have a faulty drive. Replacement would be the option.

RAM Drive, other SSD as PS Scratch?

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